Kawasaki Teryx Electric Steering Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-04-2012

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installation Instructions for Kawasaki Teryx 1. Before installation, center steering wheel and verify tires are straight. 2. Begin by removing all Phillips screws retaining the plastic hood to the front grill, headlights, and frame structure and remove front clip assembly. 3. Remove plastic shroud by removing the 4 phillips screws that retain it to the frame. 4. There are 2 bolts that hold the steering column tube in place and you need to reach up under frame work to get to them. They are 14 mm and you need a box and open end wrench to access them. Loosen the upper one and remove the lower one. Remove the pinch bolt at the column shaft and u-joint. Remove the lower pinch bolt at the rack and u-joint and while tilting the column up and down remove the stock steering shaft.
5. Once the shaft is removed, you are ready for installation. Your bracket and motor has come completely assembled as shown below. You will need to remove the lower shaft from the motor to install it. After removal of the shaft you will need to loosen the 3 mounting bolts from the bracket to the motor to allow clearance for the bracket to slide over the frame piece where it will mount

Kawasaki Mule 3010 Hood Rack Installation And Operations Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 28-04-2012

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1. Install the Seizmik Brush Guard. – Have a friend hold the brush guard (G) in place while you slide the 1.0″ dia. tube clamps (K) in place over the middle tube of the OEM bumper, as shown in Figure 1. Secure each one in place with one of the 3/8″ x 2.25″ bolts (N), two 3/8″ washers (Q), and one 3/8″ nylock nut (R). Repeat at the top tube of the OEM bumper using the 1.5″ dia. tube clamps (J), and 3/8″ x 1.75″ bolts (O). VEHICLE FRONT Figure 2. 2. Mounting brackets – Attach the two hood rack mounting brackets to the mounting pads of the brush guard, as shown in Figure 2. Use four of the 3/8″ x 1.0″ bolts (P), eight 3/8″ washers (Q), and four 3/8″ nylock nuts (R) per mounting pad. Snug down the fasteners but do not fully tighten them yet. 3 Figure 3. 3. Crush sleeves – Insert a crush sleeve (B) into each cantilever arm assembly (C & D), as shown in Figure 3. 4. Cantilever arms – Position the Driver side cantilever arm (C) on the mounting bracket, and insert a 3/8″ dia. pivot bolt (M), as shown in Figure 4. Add a 3/8″ washer (Q) and nylock nut (R) on the other side and snug down the assembly; leave the fasteners loose enough so the components can be repositioned for fitment. Repeat this step for the passenger side. Figure 4. 4 Figure 5. 5. Lock pins – Insert the 1/2″ lock pins (Y) into the tabs on each side of the Brush Guard, fixing the cantilever arms in place, as shown in Figure 5.

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KAWASAKI Undertail Installation AND Removal instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 26-04-2012

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1- MASKING TAPE 2- DRILL 3- PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER 4- HAND SAW BLADE OR DREMMEL 5- DRILL BIT # 3/16 (TABS – AREA NEAR LENSES ) 6- DRILL BIT # 15/64 (NYLON SCREW RIVETS FOR THE BACK) 7- ELECTRIC TAPE WHAT COMES WITH THIS UNDERTAIL? 2 RED LED BULBS 2 SCREWS REMOVE THE REAR SECTION OF THE BODY There are plastic body connectors as well as bolts inside the tail in addition to the Allen-head bolts on the outside surface. NOTE: KEEP YOUR STOCK RIVETS FOR LATER USE. REMOVE THE TAIL SECTION & SEAT REMOVE THE TAIL SECTION & SEAT REMOVE THE TAIL SECTION & SEAT REMOVE THE TAIL SECTION & SEAT REMOVE THE TAIL SECTION & SEAT REMOVE THE TAIL SECTION & SEAT

KAWASAKI 1500 9408 PRO HYPERCHARGER INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 26-04-2012

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STEP 1 Remove the seat STEP 2 Disconnect the battery positive cable to prevent sparking that could cause ignition of spilled fuel, and personal injury. STEP 3 Remove the fuel tank. IMPORTANT- Throughout this installation, we strongly recommend labeling all hoses, and the nipples they were removed from. STEP 4 Remove the intake ductwork, air inlet, right and left air cleaner housings, air cleaner, cold start components (see PIC. 1), air mass sensor, and support bracketry. The wires that were unplugged from the cold start solenoids, may be neatly bundled and tucked out of harms way and out of sight. Be sure the terminals are insulated so they cannot short to any surrounding parts. Insert plugs (3/8″ x 1/2″ socket head bolts work well) into the two hoses that connected to the cold start circuit lines. (See PIC.2.) Also unplug the crankcase breather hose from the right angle fitting at the bottom of this enclosure, and the large diameter hose from the fresh air injection valve. (Don’t forget to label.) The fuel drain hose will not be re-used. PIC.3 shows what you’ll have left when all components are removed. STEP 5 From the hardware kit, find the front and rear support tabs and the four M6 x 1.0 x 16mm socket head cap screws. Install the support tabs to the threaded holes in each cylinder, and to the holes in the throttle body as shown in PIC.4. STEP 6 From the hardware kit, find the M6 x 1.0 x 16mm hex bolt and lock tab washer. Also find the intake gasket (oval shape with two large holes) and the manifold adapter body. See PIC.5. Screw the air temperature sensor into the back of the manifold adapter body. Place the intake gasket over the mouth of the throttle body so all holes line up. Insert the M6 hex bolt through the lock tab washer, and secure the adapter body to the throttle body, again making certain all holes line up perfectly. Tighten the hex bolt, but do not bend the lock tabs yet

Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Installation and Removal Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-04-2012

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1) Place motorcycle on its side stand on a firm level surface. 2) Remove saddlebags if applicable 3) Attach bracket C (left side) and bracket D (right side) to rearmost fender attachment bolt. A) If bike has no saddlebags use 3/8 spacer between bracket and motorcycle. Use new bolt provided. B) If bike has stock saddlebags use enclosed threaded rod assembly. 1) Thread rod into rear bag/fender mount 2) Place 3/8 spacer and bracket onto rod 3) Tighten down with locknut ensure locknut and rod are tight 4) Replace bags on rod and tighten NO BAGS STOCK BAGS
4) Remove rear riders pegs and attach front of bracket A(left side) and bracket B (right side) to rear foot peg mounting point. Mount foot peg to outside of bracket. Use new bolts provided. 6) Attach brackets C/D to top of rear hitch plate. 7) Attach rear of brackets A and B to TOP of hitch arms 8) Ensure hitch is square on motorcycle and tighten all bolts

YAMAHA FZR600 SPECIFICATIONS AND SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 27-04-2011

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Front Axle and Outer Tube Front Wheel Axle Holder Rear Axle and Nut Handlebar Crown and Inner Tube Handlebar Crown and Steering Stem Steering ring nut (Upper and lower) Brake Caiiper (Front/Rear) Bleed Screw and Brake Caliper Brake Hose and Union Bolt Front Master Cylinder and Cylinder Cap Front Fender and Outer Tube Handlebar Boss and Front Fork Handlebar and Handlebar Boss Engine Mounting: Front ; Rear — Upper ; Rear — Lower 1 Down Tube and Frame: Front 1 Rear l Footrest Bracket and Frame I Pivot Axle and Nut Relay Arm and Frame Connecting Rod and Swingarm Connecting Rod and Relay Arm Rear Shock Absorber and Reiay Arm Rear Shock Absorber and Frame Footrest and Footrest Bracket I Rear Footrest Bracket and Frame Rear Master Cylinder and Rear Arm Bracket Cowling and Stay Compression Bar and Brake Caliper Bracket Front Fork Pinch Bolt: Upper Lower Sprocket and Clutch Hub Brake Disc and Clutch Hub Inner Tube and Steering Stem Frame and Rear Frame: Upper

Kawasaki Vulcan Front Suspension Lowering Kit Installation manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 27-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. This lowering method requires replacement of the front spring spacers. This is a simple task, and is completely reversible. First, raise the front tire off of the ground before you begin. Raise the motorcycle so no weight is applied to the front wheel. 2. Cover the gas tank with a thick towel to prevent scratching. Don’t omit this…you’ll be sorry if you do! 3. If the handlebar risers are OEM (stock), loosen the handlebars in their clamps and lift them from the risers, carefully placing them on the gas tank on a thick towel to prevent scratching. This will allow room for the spring spacers to be removed from the front forks. 4. Using a small knife blade, sharp screw driver, etc. in the pinch grove on each side of the triple clamp, gently pry upwards and pop the chromed plastic covers off. These are the covers on the top of the front forks, covering the spring retainers. Below these chrome caps, you’ll find a gold anodized metal plug with a small counter bore in the center. This is the part used to retain the springs within the front fork tubes. Using an extension bar, large Phillips screwdriver, etc., press down a bit in the counter bored area of the plug to take the pressure off of the small internal “C” ring. While this “gold” colored plug is depressed, remove the internal C-ring. The C-ring is made of small diameter wire. Once the C-ring is removed, slowly release the pressure on the plug and it’ll push itself out of the top of the shock. The picture below is of the upper fork leg with the gold retaining plug removed. 5. Stick a finger into the fork tube, and slide the OEM tubular spacer up and out of the fork tube. 6. The picture below illustrates the use of a Scootworks lowering spacer with the fork spring. On the right hand end of the you’ll see a Scootworks lowering spacer. The fork spring stays in the front fork, and you’ll drop in the spacer with the desired amount of lowering. The approximate amount of lowering is marked on each Scootworks spacer. 7. Select the spacers for the desired amount of lowering. The longest spacers supplied are marked as [1] and will lower the front suspension 1″. The spacers of middle length are marked as [2] and will lower the front suspension by 2″. The shortest spacers supplied in the kit are marked as [3] and will lower the front suspension by 3″. Omission of the spacers completely will lower the front suspension by approximately 4″. 8. Install the selected spacers in the fork tubes, on top of the internal fork spring. Place the gold anodized metal plugs on top of the spacers and press them back into the fork tube. Be sure to turn the metal plug so the side with the counter bore is facing outwards. Reinstall the C-rings, and gently lower the front end back to the ground. Make sure the C-rings seat themselves in their respective grooves when the weight of the bike is placed back on the front end. Re-install the chrome caps.

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The New Kawasaki ZX-6R Trading in gets easier and easier

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 18-02-2011

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didn’t go to my local Kawasaki shop expecting to trade in the 2004 636 I’d been happily riding. I honestly didn’t expect there to be anything on the floor that would motivate me to bring the bike in. Some of you reading this may be able to relate to what I am saying, the day you don’t look for something is the day that you find exactly what you didn’t know you need. That was the day I decided I needed to take home the new ZX-6R. The reworking of the new ZX-6R is more than just about looking good. According to KMC the engine has been redesigned from the crankcase up for the first time in ten years. Racing technology built into the new bike is a close-ratio cassette transmission that can be removed without the needing to split the main crankcases in case you needed to make repairs or adjustments at the track. They also tell us that the fuel injection system has shorter throttle bodies with a smaller diameter bore which claim to give this new smaller sized engine more torque in the mid-range. It also comes with a GPS – Gear Position Sensor. The new ZX-6R comes stock with a slipper clutch which is one difference between the 2004 and 2007. My 2004′s rear wheel would hop if I geared down before a corner and my engine rpms were too high. The slipper clutch allows quicker downshifts. To experience the gains of a slipper clutch you don’t have to buy a 2007 Kawasaki – it was introduced to the 636 in 2005. A quick glance at the exhaust might leave the impression that the ZX-6R comes stock with stacked twin small diameter exhaust cans but if you look closely you will see it is a single oval pipe with a shotgun styled end cap. The titanium pipe has the pre-chamber and catalyser located below the engine to keep the weight on the bike low and centered and the temperature of the under seat silencer reduced. Looking at the new Kawasaki with its fairing removed, I wonder how much more it would have cost the consumer to have an exhaust system that not only works wonders but would be worth showing off? Even if some of the systems of the new 600 look better hidden by plastic the bike does have a cohesive look and every year the fit and finish of Kawasaki’s bikes seem to get better. You can look at this bike from almost any angle and nothing jumps out at you – unless you are on the right side of the bike looking at the rear brake reservoir. It seems odd to me that they would leave the rear brake reservoir exposed. Another design feature of the smooth body of the 2007 ZX-6R is the lack of tie down points for any luggage. It can be argued that this is a bike intended for Sunday morning canyon rides or track days on weekends but if you want to take the 600 out for a weekend away then there is aftermarket solution. Ventura Racks allow you go on vacation with your bike. A Ventura Rack provides you with a frame that you attach to your bike that you can secure luggage to. There is no drilling of body work and the Ventura rack I got fit onto the bike perfectly the first try. One of the things I really like about the Ventura Rack is that you can easily attach bags that you may already have or you have the option of buying the Ventura luggage system. Just give yourself time before a motorcycle trip to pack

Kawasaki KLR-650 465 Series Single Shock Supplement

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 13-02-2011

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Mount the shock as you would your stock shock per your authorized shop manual (with the rebound adjustment at the bottom) noting the following: n As you mount the shock, feed the Remote Adjustable Pre-Load adjuster through the opening between the main-frame and sub-frame on the left side of the bike. n Do not loosen or attempt to rotate the line between the shock and the adjuster. n Make sure the shock rebound adjustment is facing the right side of the motorcycle and the pressure valve is facing forward. n On 1987-2007 models ONLY , install the supplied 3.5mm thick spacers – one on each side of the shock clevis ( see figure 3 ). Do not install these spacers on 2008-2010 models. n Tighten shock bolts to the proper torque specifications (refer to your manual). n Mount the adjuster to the supplied mounting bracket using the supplied M6- 1.0X8mm SHCS fasteners and torque them to 80-90 in/lbs (9-10 N-m). Then mount the bracket to the bike using the two rear footrest mounting bolts – sandwiching the mounting bracket between the rear footrest mount and the frame tabs (as shown in figure 4) . Using the supplied zip-ties, secure the hydraulic line away from any moving parts or heat sources. n To adjust the ride height, simply turn the adjuster knob clockwise (looking at it from the back of the bike) to increase the height and counterclockwise to reduce it. See main instructions for procedure of achieving optimum ride heigh

Kawasaki KX250F Factory Tuning And Fuel Injection to keep expert riders at the front of the pack

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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Battery-less fuel injection system Designed specifically for motocrossers, the fuel injection system incorporates a small lightweight ECU and operates without a battery to further eliminate unnecessary weight. And of course, fuel injection eliminates the need to adjust engine settings to suit track and climate conditions. Ensuring quick starting without a battery was a prime directive when developing this fuel injection system. Using only electricity generated by the kick starter, the engine can be started with only three rotations of the crankshaft. The system delivers electricity in the following order:1) ECU, 2) fuel pump, 3) injector. With a warm engine, starting can be accomplished in a single kick. The compact, lightweight ECU, located just in front of the steering head (behind the number plate), was designed specifically for motocross use. To help cope with the shocks and vibrations of motocross riding, the fuel pump relay is built into the ECU. A 43 mm throttle body makes use of a progressive throttle link to deliver airflow in much the same way as would a FCR carburettor. Using two linked shafts, the throttle body opens more quickly after the 3/8 open position, delivering sharp response and excellent power. Lightweight throttle body is approximately half the weight of a FCR carburettor – a weight savings of about 600 g. To ensure the high-rpm engine’s demand for a high flow of fuel in a short period is met, the KX250F’s injector features larger holes than that used on the KX450F. A fine atomising injector with 4 holes disperses spray particles with a droplet size of 120 µm. Fuel flow is about 20% greater than on the KX450F. The newly designed fuel pump, located in the fuel tank, is a lightweight aluminium construction. (Fuel tank capacity is now 7.2 litres.)

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