Ktm 950 SMR Installation and Removal Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 27-01-2012

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Be sure the triple clamp in your kit has a part # 3012R- 27 -6-0208 on the bottom side. This is very important. 2. Warning: Once the triple clamp is loose, the forks can roll away from the bike . Block it up properly to start with. 3. Block the front tire securely before removing the top triple clamp, so the tire cannot move forward. It’s best to tie the forks up to something above you, like the rafters, using tie downs, or a tie down from the front axle up and over the frame backbone and then underneath the lower triple clamp. Once the forks start to come off while working, it’s extremely difficult to get them back together without help. Block the back wheel up also, so it puts pressure on the front end, forcing it to stay in position. Spend the time setting this up correctly and your installation will go easier. 4. This kit requires removal of the headless “Security” bolts that hold the key switch in place. These bolts will need to be drilled out in order to remove them, pictures below. Removal is fairly easy, if you follow these instructions. 5. Examine all the wire and cable routing before removal and make notes of where everything goes. 6. Remove 2 bolts that hold the headlight shroud in place. Be careful not to lose the small bushings that fall out easily. 7. Follow the wire from the ignition switch to the wire loom in the headlight shroud and unplug it. There is no locking tab on this plug so you can usually undo it without having to disassemble the wiring. 8. Remove the 4 bolts that hold your bars tight and lay the bars forward out of the way (Bungie or tie to the front of bike). 9. Be sure the front end is securely blocked or tied to something above the bike. Remove the top triple clamp, taking note of how tight the 27mm main nut is, so you can re-tighten to the exact tension for the bearing. The main nut merely provides the correct tension on the head tube bearing, so the tension is critical. The nut will NOT be tight coming off. Once the fork and triple clamp pinch bolts are loose, the main nut can be removed. It’s difficult to get a wrench on the main nut. We were able to sneak the stock KTM axle wrench in there, otherwise, you may have to loosen the lower bar perches using an 8mm Allen wrench and a 17mm socket for the underside nuts. Once the main nut is off, lift the triple clamp off carefully , trying not to disturb the blocked-front-wheel. A rubber mallot is helpful here

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2007 KTM SX-F 250- 450 Kickstand Installation and Removal Manual Instructions

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 26-01-2012

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Remove the lower d bolt making sure you keep track of the order of the small parts for re-assembly. 2) Remove the lower in-frame bolt. 3) Install the supplied lower kickstand mounting bracket onto the frame at the lower chain roller boss. The counter bore should slide over and onto the frame boss. The chain roller should go back into place just how it came e supplied lower kickstand mounting bracket between it and the frame. Do not is bracket needs to pivot to align with the lower hole in the main . 4) Install the kickstand onto the bike using one of the provided M8x30mm flat head sub-frame to main-frame bolt location. Do not tighten yet. 5) Line up and install the other provided ad bolt thru the lower kickstand mounting hole into the supplied lower kickstand mounting bracket. 6) Now tighten all three bolts, two mounting bolts (front) and one lower kickstand mounting bracket 7) Periodically check the kickstand and all mounting bolts for tightness. Maintenance: Clean and lubricate the kickstand pivot area after each ride! We recommend using a heavy-duty chain lube. If necessary, you can remove the back cover plate for additional cleaning. Never remove the kickstand leg pivot bolt!

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KTM Superduke 990 MotoHooligan Airbox Installation

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 26-01-2012

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Undo the screws retaining the left and right front tank spoilers and remove. Fitment of Motohooligan airbox is possible without removing the tank but task is much easier if this is done. Access for removal of SAS system and installation of PC111 is also much improved and it’s worth the additional 5 minutes work. It would also be a good idea to do this with an empty tank so it’s lighter to handle. Unscrew front retaining bolt from front of tank and lift tank to access the spring damper on the left hand side. On standard Superdukes release the two circlips, carefully support tank and remove damper unit. (NB. SDR model not fitted with damper). Lower tank back into position and unscrew one of the pivot bolts at rear of tank Stage 1 – remove spoilers and tank Note : Fuel line has a connector half way between tank and airbox. but leave it in position to support the tank whilst you unscrew the other side. Once both bolts are unscrewed tank is free but still attached by fuel lines and electrics. Lift the rear of the tank to expose the two electrical plugs and disconnect both making sure that the retaining pins are pushed in first before you pull them apart. Reaching underneath the rear of the tank you’ll see the fuel line running into the base of the airbox. Half way down there is a connector with a metal button. Press this and pull the fuel line apart – you might want to have a rag handy to catch any fuel drips. Pull off the breather tube at the front, (on US models also pull off the breather that leads to the charcoal canister in the tail), and lift the tank away

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KTM OM-2 Split Body Floating Ball Valves Installation and Maintenance Instructions

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 26-01-2012

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Remove the valve from the shipping package (box or pallet) with care taken to avoid any damage to the valve and actuator (plus accessories where applicable). •Before installation, remove the seal discs from the flange. Clean the inside of the valve using an air line that includes an appropriate air-filter. Ensure that there are no solid objects such as pieces of wood, plastic or packing materials within the valve or on the valve seat. •Confirm that the materials of construction listed on the valve nameplates are appropriate for the service intended for and are as specified. When in doubt contact KTM, or your local Tyco facility. •Define the preferred mounting orientation with respect to the system pressure. The arrow on the body helps to identify the upstream side (high pressure) and downstream side (low pressure). •Ensure that all stud bolts and nuts of the body joint are firmly fastened. Caution •Verify that the direction of the flow in the line corresponds to the arrow indicated on the valve body. Valves without the arrow are bi-directional. •See the Actuator User Manual for the actuator preparation. 2.2. Installation Instructions •Ball valves are normally installed in horizontal pipes with the stem facing up. However, there are no limitations regarding the pipe or stem orientation. •Unless otherwise recommended by KTM, the valve should be installed with the ball in the open position, to ensure that the seat rings are not damaged during installation. •Particular care should be taken for valves equipped with “fail-close” actuators. •For operating temperatures above 200°C (392°F), thermal insulation of the valve body is recommended to protect the actuator/accessories from heat beyond the recommended temperature range. •Handling and lifting of the valves during installation MUST be performed following the same criteria and instructions described in points 1.2. and 1.3

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2000-2010 KTM X2 SWITCH WIRING HARNESS Removal and Installation Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 25-01-2012

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The included 3600-SWHA switch harness is intended for use with offroad models that do not come with a Hi/Low beam switch from the factory. The harness is compatable with stock AC lighting electrical systems as well as high output DC electrical systems. 1. Remove the stock numberplate or headlight. Remove the stock kill switch from handlebars and replace with the 3600-SWHA switch. 2. Remove the gas tank. Route the white and black leads from the 3600-SWHA under the tank following the wires from the stock kill switch. Disconnect the stock kill switch bullet and connect the white wire of the 3600-SWHA to the wiring harness. Disconnect the stock kill switch ring terminal and connect the ring terminal of the 3600-SWHA. Fully remove the stock kill switch. Be sure all the wires are safe from being burned or pinched and re-install the gas tank. 3. Disconnect the two female spade terminals from the stock headlight switch (if present). Connect the terminal with the yellow wire to the red power lead from the switch. Connect the white wire to the blue accessory output from the switch. Be sure the clear silicone sleeves are covering the stock plastic housings. 4. Connect the X2 headlight to the switch headlight plug. Note: The stock headlight plug will not be used for the X2 installation, but is still functional for connecting the stock headlight. The stock plug will turn on and off with the new headlight switch, and will be powered in either of the Low or High Beam positions

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KTM EXC / MXC DUAL SPORT KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 25-01-2012

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Using a small phillips head screwdriver, loosen the locking screw ( B ) on the kill switch ( C ). Remove any cable ties and unplug kill switch from existing wiring. Step 2 Loosen clutch cable perch ( D ) and move inboard about 1/2 inch. Important Note Regarding Magura Brakes The KTM uses the Magura hydraulic brake, which may cause potential interference between the turn switch and the lever adjuster. Make sure you have enough clearance between the parts. You can either move the grip out slightly, or take a file and sand away a small notch in the turn switch where it may rub. Install Turn Switch Step 1 Open and wrap the new turn switch ( E ) around handlebar and securely fasten with two screws ( F ) as shown. Make sure you have clearance between the grip, the switch and the lever! Step 2 Route turn switch wiring down and along handle bar behind Dakar headlight unit and in through frame cable guide. Secure switch wiring to handlebars with one cable tie. For more information, please refer to the Cable Routing Diagram

Ktm 625/ 640/ 660 LC4's and some 640 Adventures Removal and Installation Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 24-01-2012

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1. There are 3 pages of instructions here. Review all 3 first! These model bikes normally require modifications. 2. Warning: Once the triple clamp is loose, the forks can roll away from the bike . Follow step 2 carefully. 3. Block the front and rear tire securely before removing the top triple clamp, keeping the weight pushed on the front wheel so the front tire cannot move forward and the forks are forced upward, keeping the bearing in the head tube. 4. Remove the 4 bolts holding your bars tight and lay the bars forward out of the way. 5. Using Loc-tite, change the lower nuts on the under side of your triple clamp that hold your bar perches. Use the “low profile” version that we have supplied in the kit. You will need access to the Allen head bolts in the lower perch halves. Without these low profile nuts the triple clamp will not be free to turn lock to lock. There are occasions where you may have to grind on the frame bracket to allow a little extra clearance for even the low profile nuts (see photo). Because the bars are rubber mounted, this clearance varies from bike to bike. Turn the triple clamp lock to lock and be sure you have clearance. You must change them now, as later you won’t have room to do so. 6. Now remove the top triple clamp taking note of how tight the main nut is, so you can re-tighten to the exact amount. 7. Remove the tin bearing shroud (cover) and rubber seal. The lips of the seal face downward for correct installation. 8. The new shorter bearing shroud will replace the stock tin shroud, giving the frame bracket more room to seat. 9. Grease your bearings while you have them exposed. (Keep the grease off the area where our frame bracket mounts). 10. Only if your model is equipped with one, you will need to cut off the upper portion of the square steering lock receiver box (see photo). The steering lock stays functional as the lock-pin still engages the lower the portion of the box. Mark and cut the top of the box off. You must cut enough to allow our frame bracket to drop down far enough so the entire bracket grabs the head tube. If you don’t allow the frame bracket enough clamping surface it will come loose. The upper edge of the frame bracket should be level with the step where your stock bearing seal seats. (See photo). 11. Install the frame bracket so it matches the clamping area on your head tube, but do not tighten it yet. Do not remove the paint on the frame where the frame bracket fits. The paint is calculated as part of the correct dimension. On most LC4′s you will need to grind the weld at the back of the head tube, so the bracket can drop all the way down flush. Each bike is a little different; some require a lot of grinding and some very little. Try to remove the weld while retaining the original diameter of the head tube where our bracket will clamp. It is essential for the frame bracket to clamp to a symmetrical, round head tube. When you’ve removed the majority of weld the finished removal should be done with a file for precision clearance, without touching the area where the clamp will seat

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2007 KTM 250, 450, 505, SX-F QPX Performance Tip/ Spark Arrester Clean out Procedure

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 24-01-2012

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Step 1: Take off the end cap of exhaust by removing the five (5) screws using a T-20 torx wrench. Cut the silicone around stock end cap using a box knife, then pull cap straight off. Step 2: Step 3: To install your new QPX Performance Tip/Spark Arrester, slide QPX assembly into muffler with engraving on base right side up. Step 4: Align holes of QPX base and muffler, then reinstall the five (5) original screws with your T-20 torx wrench. Installation is now complete. Store instructions in a safe place for future reference. (See clean out instructions on reverse.) If the spark arrester screen isn’t already installed in the QPX Performance Tip, remove the four (4) M6 bolts attaching the cone to the base, remove cone, install screen between base and cone, reinstall M6 bolts and tighten. Do NOT tighten. Start, but leave loose until all screws are started, the tighten securely.

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KTM EXC taillights Installation manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 23-01-2012

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Step1: Remove headlight, (headlight switch) seat and gas tank from KTM. Step 2: Partially install the headlight assembly using the top right band only to hold it in place temporarily. You will need to plug wires to this assembly and if you put all four bands on you will not be able to make the connections. Step 3: Install handlebar switch on clutch side. You will need to move clutch perch to the right (about ½ inch to1 inch) to make room for the switch. The red knob on the clutch adjuster should just miss the handlebar switch. The switch plugs into the circuit board on the bottom of the headlight using the 8-pin plug (the only unused 8-pin one on the circuit board) Step 4: Behind the gas tank and in front of the air box is a small rectangular hole in the frame. You will be feeding two lines with the plug ends first down through this hole. They must be fed one line at a time and you may need to use needle nose pliers to grab them and help pull them through. The lines you want to feed through this hole are the power line with two-pin molex plug and the line for the taillight with the six-pin plug. Route these wires all the way to the headlight assembly along the left side of the bike on the bottom of the gas tank frame tube. In this step we will connect the power line only. With the handlebars turned all the way to the right, plug the power wire into the back of the headlight assembly making sure to leave some extra wire so you can turn the handlebars both ways without tugging on the wires. The other end of the power line has battery terminal loops. The positive has an in-line fuse and the other black wire is the negative. Connect these to the battery.

KTM Rear Wheel Bearing Installation and REMOVAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 23-01-2012

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1 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the aluminum wheel bearing spacers and push up against the inner edge of the spacer on the opposite side of the wheel (Fig. 1). 2 Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the spacer until it completely slides out of the bearing (Fig. 2). Turn the wheel over and remove the other spacer in the same way. 3 Use a long screwdriver or narrow pry bar and pry the seals out of each side of the wheel (Fig. 3). 4 Using snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining snap ring from either the disc or sprocket side of the wheel (Fig. 4). 5 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the wheel bearing, and push up against the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side of the wheel. Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the bearing until it completely slides out of the hub. Turn the wheel over and remove the other bearing in the same way. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the punch sideways at first to knock the center aluminum sleeve off center so that you are able to get the punch on the edge of the bearing. 6 Clean areas where bearings will be inserted back into hub and apply a thin coat of grease around the machined hub surface. Tap the bearing on the snap ring side of the hub into the machined hub surface, making sure to keep it square with the hub as it goes in and only tap on the outer race of the bearing. Once you get the bearing flush with the outer edge of the hub, use a socket or piece of pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing into the hub. (Fig. 5)

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