ULTIMA ELECTRONIC WIRING SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 03-03-2011

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1. Find a mounting location for control box. The box is designed to be mounted to the top frame rail between split tanks, but can be mounted in a wide variety of places. If possible the box should be fastened using small screws or rivets but can be wire tied in place. Make sure the location is away from moving parts and heat sources. 2. Pre-fit harness to bike. Attach rear harness to control box. Each wire is color coded and labeled. Route individual wires to their destinations and do not cut to length. Keep wires in a bunch until they need to branch off. Use electrical tape to hold main wire bunch wherever individual or multiple wires branch off. Keep wires away from sharp edges or pinch points and leave extra wire for suspension movement. Repeat this for front and right/left harnesses. All wires not being used should be cut off at connector or secured to prevent shorts. When all wires are routed, cut excess length from ends leaving a couple extra inches for final fitment. 3 Remove pre-fitted harness from bike to install heat shrink tubing. Start at main connector and cut tubing approximately 1 inch past first branch. This will allow the next piece of tubing to slide into the first. Repeat this along entire harness. After encasing harness with heat shrink, use a heat gun to shrink tubing starting at main connectors. Be careful to not burn through the tubing with too much heat. Refit the harness to the bike, attaching to frame where necessary. Cut the ends of harness to length and strip the ends. Attach the terminals to the wire ends and use heat gun to shrink ends. Attach terminals to their destinations. 4. The diagnostic LED’s are used to locate shorts or overloads. Pinched or bare wires, faulty components or too much current draw usually causes these. If an LED is on, turn off the bike, locate and correct the problem, then turn the bike back on. The bike must be turned off to reset the protection circuit. If no LED’s are lit, but turn signals and dash lights do not work properly, make sure the control box main ground has a good connection to the chassis ground. 5. The control box operates the turn signals as listed: First command – flash 10 times then cancel Second command on same side – cancel Second command opposite side – cancel current sequence, flash 10 times then cancel Both sides at same time – hazard, all signals flash Brake switch – flash rear signals three times then stay on for 30 seconds

ULTIMA 6 SPEED BUILDERS KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 03-03-2011

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DISASSEMBLY For 5 speed gear set removal refer to your factory service manual. You willneed to remove the main drive gear, main drive gear bearings, retaining clip & countershaft needle bearings. NOTE: Removal of the shifter arm is notnecessary for 99 & earlier transmissions. NOTE: Removal of the shifter arm isnecessary for 2000 & later transmissions. After trans. housing is disassembled thoroughly clean & inspect. ASSEMBLY For 2000 & later models removal of approximately 1/4 of an inch off of the shifter arm bushing is likely required. Doing so will allow installation of the retaining clip & washer onto the shifter arm. It is good practice to double check how much material should be removed before cutting the bushing. See fig. 1 & 2 Install supplied Main drive gear bearings & countershaft needle bearings using special tool # 97-164 NOTE: Lightly coat bearings with assembly lube or gear oil for easier installation. Install supplied Main drive gear retaining clip & verify that it is fully seated and cannot come out. Do not re-use old bearings or retaining clip. Install supplied Main drive gear into bearings using special tool # 97-166 See fig. 3 Install supplied trap door gasket & verify that it is on correctly. Install supplied 6 speed gear set making sure to align the countershaft with the needle bearing assembly. Slowly slide in gear set until the mainshaft & countershaft will not slide in any further. Lightly tapping on the trap door (while verifying that there is no interference) with a soft blow hammer will then fully seat the shafts & trap door. See fig. 4 Once gear set is installed use the supplied 5/16-18×1-1/2 & 1/4-20×1-1/2 bolts to secure the trap door. Torque the 5/16 bolts to 15 ft-lbs w/ red loctite (high strength) Torque the 1/4 bolts to 9 ft-lbs w/ red loctite (high strength) See fig. 5

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CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF CHROME WHEELS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 16-02-2011

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Chrome-plated wheels are attractive and can remarkably change the appearance of your trike by reflecting light to base areas of your vehicle. We have piece together the following material to help you get many years of enjoyment from your wheels plated with chrome. •When washing your trike, start first with the wheels. Wash them when they are cool, not after a long drive. Never spray cold water on hot or warm wheels, this can result in permanent damage to their appearance. •Chrome-plated wheels should be washed with a mild soap and water frequently. It is important to take note that absolutely no ammonia-based or acid cleaning solutions are to be used on the wheel or the tires. •Use a washing mitt or a soft sponge. Never use any type of brush, abrasive pad or steel wool as these will scratch the finish. Rinse thoroughly. Do not allow soap, chemicals or water to sit on the surface and produce water spots. Dry your wheel with a soft non-abrasive towel. •Be careful around automatic car washes, due to their use of bristle brushes or acidic preparations that are used to remove dirt and debris from wheels. •Periodically, polish wheels with quality non-abrasive chrome polish. After polishing and/or cleaning it is a good idea to wax the exposed areas to seal the surface. •When possible, chrome-plated wheels should not be used in areas where salt and chemicals are used in winter weather. If chrome wheels are driven in winter months they should be cleaned every week. Chrome sealant is highly suggested for use on wheels that are driven in winter or better yet, remove your chrome-plated wheels during this time. •If you live near salt water or beaches, take extra attention to wash more frequently to remove ocean salts. Any build up of brake dust along with residue from coastal climate can damage the finish. •Proper attention should also be paid to the backside of the wheels when washing. Keep your investment safe; clean your wheels on a regular basis

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PREMIUM STEREO HELMET HEADSET KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 14-02-2011

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HEADSET INSTALLATION NOTE Carefully follow the installation procedures given in this instruction sheet. Harley-Davidson® makes no warranties, expressed or implied, to cover helmets damaged by improper installation of this headset. If the procedures are not within your capabilities, or if you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley-Davidson dealer perform the installation. Headset Connector and Microphone Installation NOTE Two different helmet clamp styles are provided to fit different helmet shell designs. 1. See Figure 1. Position the headset connector housing (1) to the outer left side of the helmet shell (5), with the boom (2) forward. Position the selected clamp (3) to the inner left-side helmet edge, between the liner (6) and shell. 6 4 2 1 3 5 is05937 1. Headset connector housing 2. Boom 3. Clamp 4. Hex socket head screw (2) 5. Helmet shell 6. Helmet liner Figure 1. Clamp Placement on Helmet 2. Assemble the headset connector housing to the clamp with the two screws (4), but do not fully tighten at this time. 3. Put the helmet on. Adjust the boom and the headset connector housing position as necessary to place the microphone and wind sock in front of the mouth. Remove the helmet. Use the hex key (10) to tighten the clamp screws to hold the headset securely to the helmet. Speaker Installation NOTE Ambient temperature should be at least 60 °F (16 °C) for proper adhesion of the speakers to the helmet. 1. See Figure 7. The speakers must be mounted to a hard surface on the inside of the helmet using the supplied hook and loop fasteners (7). • If the helmet HAS removable ear pads , remove the ear pads from inside the helmet. • If the helmet DOES NOT HAVE removable ear pads , it may be necessary to cut out a small piece of the fabric liner on each side of the helmet to get to the hard inner surface of the helmet shell. 2. Clean the speaker mounting areas inside the helmet with a mixture of 50-70% isopropyl alcohol and 30-50% distilled water. Allow to dry thoroughly. 3. Remove the backing from one side of the hook and loop fastener. Press the assembled adhesive-backed fastener onto a hard surface within the ear pad recess area

Airtail Compressor Kit for Airtail Suspension System Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 14-02-2011

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installation • Following steps covers retro fits and new installations. * DENOTES RETRO FIT APPLICATION ONLY. Step 1 – Compressor 1. Jack the bike up and support it so that you can remove the rear wheel. Place your jack in an area that will not lift on the swingarm and leaves access to the space right in front of the front shock mounts. This is the area you will be installing the valve assembly into. 2. Relieve all pressure from the air shock- both “ride height” and “bottoming control” chambers must be drained of pressure. 3. Remove the seat and disconnect the battery. 4. Remove the rear wheel and ” splash guard ” (part number 60363-00) * Retro fit applications only. New applications go to #11 of Step 1. *5. Remove compressor from pivot shaft, disconnecting any airlines and wires from the compressor and solenoid. *6. Remove coil cover with switch housing and air release valves, being sure to disconnect all connections and airlines. *7. With compressor removed, remove the original solenoid valve (Fig. 1) and the 2 “T” fittings (Fig. 2) from the compressor mounting bracket. Figure 1 Figure 2 *8. Un-screw outlet valve from compressor and remove original airline (Fig. 3), being sure to not lose small o-ring around the end of airline. This will be used in the next step.

Street Fork Spring Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 13-02-2011

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1. Remove fork springs according to instructions contained in your shop manual. For maximum performance we highly recommend that the forks be thoroughly cleaned, inspected and new fork oil installed. Note: If your motorcycle comes equipped with two fork springs in each leg (long & short), remove and discard both springs and the flat washer between the springs. If a stock spacer exits, remove it. If there is a short spring on the damper rod, do not remove it! 2. Use the recommended fork oil viscosity as noted in your owners manual with the following exceptions: GL1100 20 weight, GL1200/1500 15 weight required. See fine tuning for more in- formation. Fork oil level/volume should be checked according to the steps outlined in your authorized shop manual. Measurement of your fork oil by level is the preferred method. However, some manuals only specify a volume measurement. Due to the design of a progressive wound fork spring it will displace more oil thus requiring a maximum oil level of 5.5″ (140mm). Caution: This is not a recommendation, it is only a precautionary statement. If your manual specifies an oil level higher than 5.5″ (140mm) set the oil level at 5.5″ (140mm). (Oil level is the distance from the top of the fork tube to the top of the oil with the fork completely collapsed and the fork spring removed see figure 1.) This measurement can be made by using either one of the Progressive Suspension Fork Oil Level Adjusters (FOL-1 or FOL-2). 3. Install your new fork springs into the forks. Mechanically, it makes no difference which way the springs are installed. Some manuals will state; install the spring with the close wound end towards the bottom. This is done because sometimes there will be less spring noise. The springs will perform exactly the same regardless of which direction they are placed. Check the spacer length requirement for your motorcycle in the enclosed supplement. If not listed, you must calculate the pre-load. What is pre-load? Pre-load is the distance the spring compresses when the fork cap is installed. You may or may not utilize a spacer to achieve proper pre-load. The spacer in itself is not “pre-load”. It just helps to achieve it. Why is pre-load important? It determines the proper ride height which in turn affects how the bike handles.

HALF HELMET STEREO HEADSET/ MICROPHONE KIT OPERATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 13-02-2011

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OPERATION 1. Plug in the coiled audio cable at the headset and audio source. 2. See Figure 1. Put the headset on as shown, with the headband across the back of the head, above the neck. is06122 Figure 1. Headset and Microphone Positioning 3. Put the helmet on, with the strap passing over the headset and microphone boom. Fasten securely. After putting the helmet on, position the boom with the microphone lightly touching or directly to the left of the lips. NOTE The white dot painted on the microphone boom must face toward the mouth of the wearer. 4. Attach the clothing clip to the audio cable, and clip to clothing as desired to secure. Do not pull on the cord to remove the headset from the socket. Pull on the headset jack to disconnect the headset from the socket. (00174a) 5. Detach the audio cable from the audio source, clothing and headset, and store when not in use.

STREET TUNNEL RAM INTAKE MANIFOLD INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 07-02-2011

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PREP AND TUNING FOR POWER: 1. Specific applications may show an increase in performance through additional carburetor tuning. 2. Aftermarket distributor curve kits and aftermarket ignitions may be used with the Street Tunnel Ram intake manifold. 3. Use modified or high performance cylinder heads such as our Performer RPM, and port match the intake manifold to the heads. 3. The engine’s compression ratio should be at least 9.5:1 to work properly with Torker-Plus or Performer RPM camshafts. INSTALLATION PROCEDURE INTAKE MANIFOLD BASE 1. Use only recommended intake gaskets set when installing this intake manifold. 2. Fully clean the cylinder head intake flanges and the engine block end seal surfaces. 3. Apply Edelbrock Gasgacinch sealant P/N 9300 to both cylinder head flanges and to the cylinder head side of the gaskets, allow to air dry, and attach the intake gaskets. 4. Do not use cork or rubber end seals. Use RTV silicone sealer instead. Apply a ¼” high bead across each block end seal surface, overlapping the intake gasket at the four corners. This method will eliminate end seal slippage. 5. Install the intake manifold hold-down bolts (We offer an Intake Manifold Bolt Kit #8504 that includes small-head silver Cadmium-plated bolts and matching hardened washers). Apply a small amount of RTV silicone to the threads of the eight inner bolts (1,2,3,4,5,7,9, & 11) (See Figure 1) . This will prevent oil weepage, as generally these are not blind holes in the cylinder head. 6. Torque all of the manifold bolts in two steps by the sequence shown in Figure 1 to 25 ft/lbs. INTAKE MANIFOLD TOP 1. Apply Edelbrock Gasgacinch sealant P/N 9300 to the gasket mating surface and install the gasket and manifold top. 2. Install and tighten the supplied hold down bolts using a liquid thread-locking compound on the bolt threads. As an extra safety precaution, we suggest you drill a small safety wire hole in the head of each bolt and safety wire them together. Edelbrock Corporation expressly disclaims any liability for any and all consequential damages

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Motorcycle Hand Warmer Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Disconnect the Positive (+) terminal from the battery. 2. Remove the existing grip from the Clutch side. Removing the grip may require blowing compressed air in the end between the grip and the bar, injecting brake cleaner fluid, or cutting it off. 3. Clean the handlebar where the grip was removed with alcohol or a solvent to remove all residue and dry with a clean cloth. 4. Determine where the Clutch side heater will be mounted. Take the heater marked “Clutch” and place it on the handlebar approximately ½” from the end and decide the position of the wires. It is recommended to mount the heater so the wires are at 9:00 o’clock or they can be positioned on the bottom for appearance. Peel off the release paper and adhere the heater to the handlebar with the wires toward the headlight. 5. Apply a high temperature adhesive (such as JB Weld) to the inside of the Clutch side grip. Install the grips over the heaters and let the adhesive cure as instructed by the adhesive manufacturer. 6. The Throttle side heater is installed on the throttle sleeve under the rubber cover. Remove the rubber cover that is installed over the throttle sleeve so the Throttle side heater can be applied. Some of the throttle sleeves have ribs which need to be cut or ground off so the heater can make full contact with the sleeve surface or it will over heat in the void areas. 7. Determine where the throttle side heater will be mounted. Take the heater marked “Throttle” and place it on the throttle sleeve approximately ½” from the end and decide the position of the wires. It is recommended to mount the heater so the wires are at 3:00 o’clock with a loop to allow for the twisting motion of the throttle. Peel off the release paper and adhere the heater to the throttle sleeve with the wires toward the headlight. 8. Apply a thin coat of adhesive (such as J.B. Weld) to the surface of heater only and reroll the rubber hand grip over the entire throttle sleeve. Wipe off any excessive adhesive that may have rolled out

Stinger Folding Motorcycle Trailer Review And Specifications

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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trailer with which to haul your machine(s). The steady stream of four-wheelers trailering two- wheelers to Daytona Bike Week proves that, for a considerable number of us, Mother Nature’s elements are sometimes best enjoyed upon reaching our destination, rather than experienced while traveling toward it. Travel aside, motorcycle trailers are handy, even indispensable, for getting asickly motorcycle to the shop, or to avoid committing the better part of a day waiting while the dealer installs new tires and brake pads. Finally, we find atrailer is preferable to a pickup truck for motorcycle transport, especially when singlehandedly loading/unloading. The problem for many of us is where do we find the space to park this little- used device? No matter if it’s a flatbe Rod Haskins, owner of metal bender Maintenance &Fab in Richmond, California, isn’t a rider himself, but his research indicated a market existed for a sturdily built, full-sized motorcycle trailer that folded compactly when not in use. Learning of a dormant but clever design developed by an agricultural trailer company, Haskins struck a deal, made several improvements and the Stinger Trailer was born. Werecently spent some time with a Stinger and found it to be a clever product. The Stinger arrived folded and secured to a wooden pallet. Assembly was simple, and within 20 minutes we had the 180- pound trailer ready to tow. The trailer is not towable in the folded position—that’s for storage only. Aone-car garage, home to our full-sized Chevrolet, couldn’tnormally house a motorcycle trailer, too. But the folded Stinger squeezed in nicely

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