early models with no oil light Fitting installation

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Remove existing plug and replace with the 1/8-27 NPT fitting provided, as shown. Make sure the thread is 1/8-27 tapered pipe. Do not over-tighten the new fitting. Over-tightening may result in case splitting. Oil Line: Attach one end of the oil pressure line to the fitting by pushing the end of the tubing into the hole at the end of the fitting. FYI: these fittings are quick disconnect and self-clinching. They need only to be pushed in to connect. They will not slip out unless the ferrule at the end of the fitting is pushed back away from the tubing as the tubing is pulled from the fitting. See “Routing” above. On some models the gauge bracket may be mounted out in front of the handlebars and the gauge turned 180 degrees in the bracket. This application requires that the steering dampener be removed to clear the gauge.

Side Mount Bracket for early models with steering dampener Installation

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Start by putting the motorcycle on the center stand. FYI: If the motorcycle is left on the side stand the fork spring will, because it is under compression from the weight of the motorcycle, protrude from the fork tube when the fork nut is removed. Next, remove the fork nut and sit the chromed washer aside as it will not be used in the re-assembly. Replace the chrome washer with the oil pressure bracket as show in the figure at the left. Replace the Fork nut and tighten the fork nut. This part of the assembly is complete

Triumph Center Mount Oil Pressure Gauge with active oil light Installation

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Remove the two hex head screws and spacers that secure the handlebars. Attach the oil pressure mounting bracket using the bolts removed earlier. It is not necessary to use the spacers as the bracket is the same thickness as the spacers that were removed. Make sure the oil pressure gauge bracket is clamped securely so that the handlebars cannot rotate. This part of the assembly is complete. Do not tighten the fitting mounted on the far side of the Swivel body. This fitting is designed to rotate and is sealed in place with Loctite 242 thread sealant. Over tightening will shear the threads resulting in destruction of the fitting. Remove oil pressure sending unit. Sit the copper crush washer aside for future use. The Swivel and Swivel Adaptor are supplied assembled. Remove the plug from the rear of the Swivel. Slip the crush washer removed earlier over the end of the Adaptor. There is an ‘O’-ring seal between the Adaptor and the Swivel, leaving the two assembled will prevent damage to the seal. Thread the Adaptor, with Swivel still attached, into the port from where the original sending unit was removed. With the use of a 5/32″ Allan wrench, reach inside the Swivel and tighten the Swivel against the Adaptor. Install the original oil pressure sending unit in the top port as shown using the new copper crush washer supplied. Use a wrench on both the Swivel and the original oil pressure sending unit to prevent imparting stress on the Adaptor to Swivel junction. Reinstall the 1/8 NPT plug in the end of the Swivel using with the use of a 3/16″ Allan wrench. Use Loctite 242 or equivalent semi-permanent thread sealant at this junction. Do not over tighten. Use a 3/16″ Allan wrench on the plug and an open end wrench on the Swivel to prevent imparting stress on the Adaptor to Swivel junction. Next, attach one end of the oil pressure line to the swivel fitting (located far side) by pushing the end of the tubing into the hole at the end of the fitting. FYI: these fittings are quick disconnect and self-clinching. They need only to be pushed in to connect. They will not slip out unless the ferrule at the end of the fitting is pushed back away from the tubing as the tubing is pulled from the fitting. Routing: Next, route the other end of the tube up along the frame and in front of the steering head over to the fitting in the gauge body. Avoid the exhaust pipes when routing the tubing. Push the end of the tube into the gauge fitting as was done at the swivel fitting at the other end of the tube. The tubing can be removed and cut to the length required by your routing. Make sure there is enough service loop remaining so

TRIUMPH 750 BIG BORE CYLINDER AND PISTON SET FOR 650 TWINS INSTALLATION

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Step 1. Unpack your big bore kit and inspect the contents. There should be the following: 1. Cylinder x l 2. piston with wristpin x 2 3. Hepolite piston ring set x l 4. Special big bore head gasket Step 2. Thoroughly wash the cylinder bores with soap and water. Do not use solvent! Dry bores with air or a lint free towel and let completely air dry. This step is most important and will greatly extend the life of the pistons. Step 3. Following the procedure outlined in your service manual, drain the fuel tank, remove the exhaust system, fuel tank and carburetors. Have a catch basin handy to capture any fuel that may spill from the carburetors, as fuel is highly flammable and can be ignited by a dryer pilot light etc. from a long distance. Clean up any spilled fuel immediately and dispose of away from any source of ignition. Store the fuel tank in a well vented area, outdoors is best, in the event your fuel taps should leak. Step 4. Remove the rocker boxes by slacking the 9 head bolts a little at a time in a star pattern. Remove the 6 nuts at the front and back of the head. Remove the 4 corner rocker box bolts. Remove the head bolts and rocker boxes. Remove the push rods. Examine the push rods to insure they are straight and the ends are tight. Replace any suspect push rod. Step 5. Remove the cylinder head. Now would be a good time for guide and valve renewal. This is best left to an expert. More cylinder heads have been ruined by auto machine shops than by hard use. If you do not have a qualified shop in your area please call for a referral. Step 6. Remove the push rod tubes and the cylinder base nuts. Clip rubber bands around the top of the lifters to keep them from dropping into the crankcase. Have a few lint free rags handy. Bring the pistons to the top of the stroke and begin lifting off the cylinder. If the cylinder is hard to lift off, thread a nut on one of the base studs and use a tire lever to pry against the bottom fin close to its base using the stud as a fulcrum. After partially raising the cylinder stuff the crankcase mouth with rags to keep any carbon or broken rings from entering the crankcase. These will remain in place until step 12. Step 7. Leaving the rags in the crankcase remove the wrist pin circlips from the pistons and discard. Heat the piston and gently push the wrist pin out. Do not use force as this can damage the connecting rod or its bearings. Be sure to account for all the clips as one left in the crankcase can do extensive damage. Step 8. Clean all gasket surfaces to remove any traces of the old gaskets. Use Pennatex gasket remover if needed. Be very careful not to scratch the gasket surface or to allow any gasket particles to enter the crankcase. Even a small bit of gasket can stop the oil pump from working! Step 9. Note the direction and location of the lifters. These must be replaced in the same position as when removed. Remove the lifter blocks from the old cylinder. Start by removing the small retaining bolts and washers. The lifter blocks are extremely fragile and are easily broken. They are also very expensive so great care must be taken in this step! Triumph special tool 222-616008 is advisable here. Apply pressure to the center of the block only. Do not press against the tangs that locate the lifter! A tool can be fabricated using two dowels to locate in the lifter holes. Step 10. Clean and examine the lifters and camshaft faces. Clean the lifter blocks and remove the sealing oring under the locating flange. Replace these with the new orings in the gasket set. Apply a smear of gasket sealant to the lifter block oring and press into the new cylinder. Be sure the lifter block is parallel with the bores and the grooved block is on the exhaust side. Apply a small amount of assembly oil to the lifters and replace in the exact position they came from

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Triumph Oil Filter Mount installation

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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The Norton filter adapter is then bolted to the rear piece, oil hoses are added, an oil filter is screwed into place, and the assembly is offered to the bike. With the bike supported by straps up on a lift, it will be easy to loosely mount the front clamp section in place and slide the whole assembly up the frame tube. In order to miss the center stand, the filter will need to be as high as possible without the grease nipple striking the top of the adapter. As it ends up, there is “sweet spot” where both the nipple and the stand miss the oil filter by about an 1/8 inch. Tighten the mount down when you find that place. I found that the Norton filter adapter is best plumbed using 5/16 ID black neoprene fuel hose. The spigots on the adapter are 3/8 inch, but it is better to stretch the hose over these that to use easier fitting 3/8 ID hose and then try to shrink it onto the Triumph’s smaller metal oil lines. There will simply be fewer oil leaks using the smaller hose. Be sure that you plumb the filter into the oil line that returns engine oil back to the oil tank. The Triumph oil pump cannot be counted on to create enough vacuum to suction highly viscous motor oil through a very fine filter during cool temperatures. Trying to place the filter on the oil line feeding the engine will quickly result in massive engine damage. It is always better to have the oil pump pushing oil through the filter, and the only way to have RF Whatley, Suwanee, GA 5 Jan 2008 that is to use the return oil line. On all “unit-construction” Triumph engines, the rear-most oil port is the engine oil return. Other Notes • It is generally considered that adding an oil filter will at least quadruple the life of a British motorcycle engine. These motors, which were for the most part perfected in the 1950′s, were designed to run on the older non-detergent oils. In the original design, the oil tank was the oil filter since all particulate debris in the oil settled to the bottom of the oil tank as sediment. All modern engine oils are high-detergent and tend to inhibit the formation of sediment. Therefore most of the fine abrasive in the engine oil continues to circulate unless a filter is added.

Triumph Rocket III Installation Manual

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Control Switch Box 2) Linear Actuator 3) On-board Computer Module 4) Proximity Sensor 5) Leg Support Stand 6) Leg/Wheel System 7) Hardware Bag 8) Actuator Bracket If you believe you are missing any parts, please contact Chopper Design at 407-834-5007, and we will rectify the situation. If you haven’t already done so, install the uprights (purple above) to the plate. These uprights bolt to the plate on the top with (4) 3/8″ bolts and lock washers. Once this is done, use a helper and gently slide the plate (red above) under the bike. The green brackets above will line up with the empty holes in the frame we use to secure the front of the plate. The next step is to swing the back of the stand up and line up the two uprights with the holes that held the bolts you removed from the floorboard supports (notice the right support has a curved clearance cut in it to clear the support!). Use 2 longer bolts supplied to go through the tall uprights, into the holes and threads on the bike (use some blue thread locker on these). DO NOT TIGHTEN YET! Next find 2 bronze colored bolts, 4 washers and 2 nuts. Put a washer on the first bolt, and push this bolt through the hole in the frame in front of the saddlebag support bar, and through the short forward uprights on the plate. Put a washer and a nut on the end, and repeat the same on the other side. We want the uprights to be as perfectly vertical as they can be, so set the plate up this way and just snug these two bolts a bit. Now tighten all the fasteners a little at a time, while trying to keep these upright vertical. There are a total of 10 bolts to tighten/check: 8 • The (2) bolts holding the uprights • The (4) 3/8″ bolts holding the uprights to the support plate • The (2) bolts that attach the front uprights to the frame. See the pictures below for a better look as to what it all looks like once installed

2006-2010 Triumph Sprint St 1050 Exhaust System Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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1. Make sure the bike is completely cool before starting the installation. Make sure the bike is secure on center stand or ideally a service lift. 2. Remove the seat and handle: 3. Remove the rear cowling: 4. Remove the fender assembly: 5. Remove the plastic cover on fender assembly to expose the brake and turn signal wires. Disconnect the brake light wires: 6. Remove the OEM muffler: 7. To install the Two Brothers Racing Slip-on Exhaust System: Attach the slip-tube with the X-Lite Ring™ to the muffler using the 4 (four) 6x14mm socket head cap screws and split lock washers provided. Leave loose for now. 8. Attach the rubber lined muffler clamps and plate brackets as shown to the muffler assembly using the 2 (two) 8x20mm socket head cap screws and nuts provided. Leave loose for now. 9. Install muffler assembly using the OEM mounting bolts and joint clamp. 10. Make sure muffler is aligned when the bike is centered. Then tighten the four V.A.L.E.™ assembly bolts and clamp bolts. Make sure there is clearance between wiring and all body parts. 11. Attach the turn signals/taillights and plate lights as shown in Wiring Diagram. Join wires to main wire harness using the supplied splice connectors and blue scotch locks. You can either cut the OEM modular connectors off of the wiring harness or splice new wire to them. The supplied lighting devices will need to have the modular connectors removed. Run all wiring to the left side of the rear frame, away from the muffler assembly making sure there is adequate clearance from all body parts. Make sure all lights work correctly. 12. Re-install the fender assembly, rear cowling, seat and handle from steps 2-4. 13. Double check your work for alignment and fitment. 14. Before you run the bike, clean off all fingerprints and dirt, as any oily residue will etch the metal and become somewhat permanent when the system gets hot. Remove any plastic film from name badge(s) and/or canister clamp(s). Run the bike and enjoy. It is normal for some white smoke to appear the first time you start the bike. This is packing/manufacturing oil from inside the pipe burning off. Check for gaps or leaks. If you find a leak, a little high temperature silicon sealant should fix it. After 50 to 100 miles, recheck all fasteners for tightness

Triumph Bonneville, Bonneville T100, Thruxton & Scrambler Dresser Rail / Sissy Bar / Grab Rail Kits Fitting Instructions

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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1. Undo and remove the two screws and flanged sleeves (if fitted) from the rear of the riders seat. 2. Remove the seat. 3. Disconnect the battery, negative (black) lead first. 4. Locate the rear light unit wiring connector and disconnect it from the main wiring harness. 1. Rear light unit wiring connector NOTE Take care not to damage the painted finish of the mudguard. 5. Undo the four screws securing the rear mudguard to the frame, then remove the mudguard assembly from the motorcycle. 1. Rear mudguard fixings Warning Throughout this operation, ensure that the motorcycle is stabilised and adequately supported on a paddock stand to prevent risk of injury from the motorcycle falling. Warning A torque wrench of known accurate calibration must be used when fitting this accessory kit. Failure to tighten any of the fasteners to the correct torque specification may result in loss of motorcycle control and an accident. 1 1 3 of 4 6. Position the dresser rail to the frame and secure with six of the supplied M8 x 20 mm bolts (four at the rear and one on either side at the front). Tighten the bolts to 18 Nm. Scrambler only – Fit four M8 washers between the dresser rail and the rear mounting points. 1. Rear mounting points 2. M8 washer positions (Scrambler only) 1. Front mounting point (left-hand shown) 7. Ensure the rear light wiring grommet is correctly located in the front edge of the mudguard then, taking care not to damage its painted finish, position the rear mudguard to the frame. 8. Ensure the mudguard is correctly located to the rear of the airbox then secure with the original fixings tightening them to 9 Nm. 9. Ensure the wiring for the rear light unit is correctly routed then reconnect it to the main wiring harness connector. Sissy bar installation 1. Using the M8 x 20 mm bolts and spacers, loosely secure each sissy bar to the dresser rail. 1. Spacers 2. M8 x 20 mm bolts 2. Fit an end cap to each sissy bar. 3. Using the supplied M6 x 12 mm bolts and nuts, secure the backplate to the sissy bars. Ensure the badge on the backplate is facing towards the rear of the motorcycle then tighten the fixings to 8 Nm

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Daytona 675, Street Triple Street Triple R Fitting Instruction

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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remove the original gear selector rod from the motorcycle. Note: The ball joint and locknut on the transmission linkage have a left hand thread. This is identified by either a machined ring on the gear selector rod on Daytona 675 or on the ball joint on Street Triple and Street Triple R. 1. Front ball joint 2. Locknut 3. Gear selector rod 4. Machined ring, left hand thread identification 5. Machined ring, left hand thread identification (StreetTriple and Street Triple R) 6. Remove the front and rear ball joints and front locknut only from the gear selector rod. Retain the locknut and both ball joints for re-use. Retain the gear selector rod if the motorcycle is to be returned to its original condition. 7. Remove the plastic end caps from the quickshifter assembly. 8. Screw the locknut on to the rear of the quickshifter assembly (right hand thread) leaving 8mm of thread exposed. 1. Quick shifter assembly 2. Locknut 9. Screw the rear ball joint (right hand thread) on to the rear of the quickshifter assembly until it contacts the locknut. Unscrew the ball joint, only enough to achieve the correct orientation in relation to the quickshifter cable, as shown below. Finger tighten the locknut at this stage. 1. Ball joint 2. Quickshifter assembly 3. Locknut 4. Quickshifter cable 10. Fit the locknut and front ball joint (left hand thread) to the front of the quickshifter assembly Screw the locknut and ball joint on to the quickshifter assembly to achieve a dimension between the ball joint ends of 203.5 mm. Ensure that the ball joint is in the correct orientation to the quickshifter cable, as shown below. Finger tighten the locknut at this stage. 1. Ball joint 2. Quickshifter assembly 3. Locknut 4. Quickshifter cable 12. Route the quickshifter cable through the gear selector rod aperture in the frame, as shown. 1. Quickshifter cable 2. Gear selector rod aperture 13. Locate the quickshifter assembly in position, through the frame with the sensor at the rear and the cable at the top. 1. Quick shifter assembly 2. Sensor 14. Attach the front ball joint to the transmission linkage. 1. Ball joint 2. Transmission linkage

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Triumph Scrambler And Bonneville Single Seat And Rack Kit Fitting Instructions

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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To help prevent damage to the seat and rack kit, carry out the following procedures on a soft, non-abrasive surface. cdrt 1 2 3 1
3 cowl to the seat on each side. Tighten the screws to 3 Nm. 1. Seat cowl (right-hand side shown) 2. M5 bolt and washer 7. Undo and remove the screws and flanged sleeves located at the rear of the original seat. 1. Seat screws 8. Remove the original seat. NOTE •Retain the original seat for re-use if the motorcycle is returned to original condition. 9. Fit the new seat and rack assembly using the original fixings. Locate the seat to the frame ensuring the locating tongue on the underside of the seat is positioned beneath the fuel tank bridge. Tighten the seat screws to 10 Nm. 1 2 cdrw 1 2 1 Warning The maximum load that may be carried on the luggage rack is 5 Kg (11 lbs). Incorrect loading of the luggage rack may result in an unsafe riding condition leading to loss of motorcycle control and an accident. Always ensure any loads carried are evenly distributed on both sides of the motorcycle. Ensure that the load is correctly secured such that it will not move around while the motorcycle is in motion. Check the load security regularly (though not while the motorcycle is in motion) and ensure that the load does not extend beyond the rear of the motorcycle. Never exceed the maximum vehicle loading weight of 217 Kg (477 lbs). Warning The luggage rack must not be used to carry sharp objects, or objects which extend beyond the extremities of the rack. Carriage of such items may interfere with, or distract, the rider or passenger and could affect the stability and handling of the motorcycle leading to loss of control and an acciden