VICTORY HAMMER, KINGPIN, VEGAS AND JACKPOT ELECTRIC HORN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the left and right plastic side covers and the seat (two allen bolts located below the sides of the seat). Unplug and remove the stock horn (located over the oil cooler). Connect the female ends of the jacketed two wire cable supplied to the original horn wires. Route the other end of the cable up over the engine and back to where the relay will mount as shown in photo (1). 2. Using the relay supplied with this kit and the wiring diagram provided with the horn set, identify the terminals of the relay (there are very small numbers next to each of the terminal). Connect the two (2) wires from the cable to terminals #85 & 86 on the relay. Locate the fuse holder wire assembly supplied and connect the blade terminal to the relay terminal #87 or #30. Connect the other end of the fuse wire to the battery positive terminal (+). 3. Working under the left side of the motorcycle, refer to photo (2) and install the black bracket supplied as shown onto the engine mount. Locate the four thin flat brackets and two (2) 6mm nuts supplied with the horn set and two lock washers supplied with the kit. Bolt two (2) of the brackets to each of the horns using a lock washer and 6mm nut on each and make them snug. Using the remaining 6 x 12mm bolt, nut and lock washer install the horns onto the black bracket and align as shown in photo (3). Adjust the horn location so that they are free to vibrate and do not come in contact with other parts of the motorcycle then tighten all three 6mmm bolts securely. 4. Using the two remaining wire assembles supplied, connect the larger terminals with double wires to one of the horns and the terminals with the single wire to the other horn. Route these wires up thru the frame to the relay. Connect the wire with the female blade connector to the relay terminal #30 or #87. Connect the ring terminal to the battery negative (-) terminal
or any 6m bolt on the frame. Turn on the ignition and test the horns. Secure the relay to the frame or other wiring and all loose wires using the cable ties supplied. Replace the seat and side covers

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VICTORY BATTERY BOX COVER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 24-12-2010

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Use rubbing alcohol to clean the surface of the battery box that will come in contact with the double faced tape on the inside of the cover. 2. Peel the protective backing from the adhesive tape strips. Spread the sides of the cover open slightly and place the cover into position. Press the face of the cover down firmly, then the sides. Rub over entire surface firmly.

Victory Lowering Kit INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 04-12-2010

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This kit was designed for use with stock length shocks ONLY! We do not recommend using shorter than stock length shocks with this kit. We highly recommend that your dealer install this kit. If you do not have access to a stand capable of securely supporting/lifting the motorcycle as well as tools capable of removing/replacing the suspension links, please allow your dealer to assist you. INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 1. Support motorcycle securely so that rear wheel is off the ground. 2. Remove #19, #21, #22, & #23. Refer to Fig.1 Secure & support the swing arm before removal of these parts. 3. Re-install #19, #21, & #22 using our kit in place of #23. 4. Torque fasteners to 35 ft. lbs. 5. Check for proper clearance at fender & belt guard. Please note that excessive load or other riding/road conditions could cause the bike to bottom out and potentially cause the tire to come into contact with the rear wiring harness. Adjust the pre-load of the shock per the owner’s manual or relocate the wiring harness as necessary

Victory V92SC Sport Cruiser COMFORT SPORT HANDLEBAR REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 13-11-2010

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1. Remove wiring harness dart clips. 2. Disconnect clutch switch connector. 3. Remove 2screwsforclutch lever bracket clamp, remove clutch lever bracket from handlebar. 4. Remove screws for left handlebar switch assembly. Disconnect fast idle cable from lever. Remove switch assembly. 5. Grasp left grip end firmly. While twisting grip end back&forth, pull grip end off and discard. 6. Remove left grip by insertingathin screwdriver between the grip and handlebar end. Spray as mall amount of water/soap solution into the area between the grip and handlebar end. Aggressively twist the grip back-and-forth while simultaneously pulling the grip off. 1. Locate accessory handlebar. 2. Clean inside of throttle grip assembly and throttle cable flange grooves. Ill. 1. 3. Clean throttle grip area. Ill. 1. 4. Slide throttle assembly onto right handlebar end (cableshavenot been removed and should still be attached to the throttle tube). 5. Position the handlebar over the top of the triple clamp and reinstall using bolts removed instep 10. of handlebar removal. Torque to 30 ft. lbs. 6. Install right handlebar switch housing onto handlebar. NOTE: Make sure that locating pin of switch assembly aligns with hole in handlebars. 7. Install right handlebar switch housing screws, make sure locating pin properly aligns with hole in handlebar. Tighten screws to specified torque. 8. Install master cylinder and clamp, install screws. 9. Torque screws to specification. 10. Connect front brake switch wiring harness. 11. Install fast idle cable onto fast idle lever. 12. Clean inside of left grip and handlebar grip surfaces

Victory SIDEMOUNT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 13-11-2010

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1.) Prior to actually installing the bracket, the first and most important thing to do is a “mock-up”. Attach your license plate to the bracket with any frames, etc. so you’ll be sure that you have the proper clearances. 2.) Since you may come into contact with the exhaust system or parts of it, make sure your pipes are cool and/or you’re wearing gloves. 3.) If you have access to a motorcycle lift or jack, USE IT! And use it properly; with safety straps or any other related equipment. If you don’t have a jack, be sure to do the install on flat and level ground and to chock the wheels appropriately. 4.) If your vehicle is not on a lift be advised that while removing the lower shock nut it may be under tension and to exercise care and the use of proper safety equipment, (in addition to gloves, eye protection is advisable). 5.) Mostly out of cosmetic concern, when first mounting the bracket, try it on in different positions, reinstall the shock nut just enough to hold the bracket in position and take a walk around your bike and see if you like the look. Some prefer the angle mount, others the straight up vertical, or even somewhere in between to match the lines of your bike. Once you’ve decided on a final mounting position, you’re ready to install the bracket. Please note, that if you have purchased the Victory Vegas/Kingpin or Victory Hammer/Jackpot sidemount, only one mounting location is possible. 6.) Please place the enclosed washer on the outside of the bracket, between the bracket and whatever locking nut you’re using. This is to provide a cushion between the bracket and the nut, so as to protect the chrome finish when tightening to the specified torque. Failure to use it will void your warranty. 7.) We highly recommend the use of a torque wrench to ensure proper installation. Since factory torque specification can vary from bike to bike, please check your owners manual prior to tightening or contact your local dealer for that information. For example, a Victory Vegas axle nut will require 65 foot pound of torque, while a Kawasaki Mean Streak shock nut will only require 22. Do not over-torque the fastener as you may damage the finish of the bracket, which, (as stated in the Conditions section of our web site), voids your right to refund/replacement.

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victory 650 And 750 twIns specification

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 13-11-2010

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Super Sport. The example tested by Cycle World magazine in August 1968 looked identical to the European specification 750 except for higher handlebars, a 35/35 watt headlight, larger round CEV taillight, 120mph Smiths speedometer, and an American Eagle tank badge. The headlamp shell was also different, with an additional warning lamp, and the American Eagle headlight shell featured the large hole and rubber plug (with Laverda logo) as on some early 650s. When tested by Cycle magazine in January 1969 (now called the American Eagle ‘Classic’) there was a different colour scheme, with pinstriping on the fuel tank and sidecovers (although this colour scheme also appeared in some Italian advertising and official photos). Optional for the American Eagle was a large chrome-plated engine protection bar with chrome Vitaloni rear vision mirrors attached on each side. In McCormack’s advertising the bore and stroke of the American Eagle were listed as 79.5 x 76.2mm, and this was obviously incorrect as the engine specifications were the same as the European versions. The claimed power by McCormack for the American Eagle was also Below: This Super Sport, number 1646, is based on a 750 GT, but others were converted 750 Ss. ** t he l AverdA t wIns & t rIples B IBle top triple clamp from the top. A round reflector was situated on the headlamp mounts. As there was no room for all the wiring inside this smaller shell, the electrical connectors were moved underneath the fuel tank, and there were thick grey wires leading to the Lucas switches. When turn signals were fitted these were also Lucas, the handlebar switch being on the right. The throttle was now a chrome-plated, dual-cable Tommaselli Daytona 2C, without a throttle stop, with the handlebar also Tommaselli. The dual seat on a fibreglass base, or solo seat with locking compartment, continued as before. The 750 SF1 continued to be sold in the UK, where the price was £998, but at that time a 750cc Triumph Bonneville T140V sold for £625 so the Laverda was never going to be a volume seller. In Italy, the SF1 was still one of the most popular large capacity machines available, selling for L1,227,200 when the Triumph T140V sold for L1,357,000

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Victory vision ENGINE SPECIFICATION

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 13-11-2010

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Type: Air/oil-cooled SOHC 4-valve-per- cylinder 50° V-twin 4-stroke Displacement: 1731cc Compression ratio: 9.4:1 Bore x stroke: 101 x 102mm Starting system: Electric Engine management: Electronic ignition Fuel system: Electronic fuel injection with 45mm throttle bodies Clutch: Wet multiplate Transmission: 6-speed Final drive: Belt FRAME Type: Tubular steel Swingarm: Aluminium Front suspension: Conventional 43mm dia. telescopic fork Rear suspension: Linkage-type w/single gas-charged shock absorber, air adjustable Brakes: Linked system comprising twin 300mm rotor floating discs with 3-piston calipers up front & single 300mm floating rotor with 2-piston caliper rear Wheels: Cast aluminium 18 x 3.0 in. front & 16 x 5.0 in. rear Tyres: Dunlop Elite 130/70R18 front & 180/60R16 rear DIMENSIONS Wheelbase: 1670mm Rake/Trail: 29°/137mm Seat height: 673mm Dry weight: 365kg Fuel tank capacity: 22.7The engine is reasonably quiet and remarkably smooth in cruise mode. It has the lovely pulse that a massive V-twin develops when you gas it up, but on cruise it takes a conscious effort to find even the slightest tick from the donk. I was incredulous at times. The range on a tankful varied with how sportily I pushed the bike along, but it was about ‘big tourer’ standard. It rides harder than you might expect; it’s an enjoyable bike to toss around too. Stopping is taken care of by a set of three 300mm discs, twin floating rotors with three-piston calipers up front and one two-piston unit aft. They are linked, provided good feel and were confidence

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All Victory Models OIL CHANGE KIT

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 13-11-2010

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1. Warmup the engine for several minutes. 2. Stop the engine. Securely support the machine on its sidestand. IMPORTANT: Take the proper precautions sot hem achinedoes not tip while working on it. Place an oil pan under the engine and loosen the oil fill cap/ dipstick. 3. Remove the drain plug (1) and drain the oil. 4. Remove the oil filter (2). 5. Reinstall the drain plug with anew sealing washer or O-rIngfromthekit. Torque drain plug to the specification listed in the Owner’sManualorService Manual. 6. Apply alight coat of engine oil to theO-ring of the new oil filter. Make sure the O-ring is seated properly in the groove on the filter. 7. Install filter and tighten it 3/4 of a turn after O-ring contacts engine case. 8. Remove the fill cap/dipstick and fill the engine with the amount of oil recommended in the Owner’sManualor Service Manual and reinstall the dipstick /filler cap. 9. Start the engine and warm it up for several minutes and check for leaks. If any leaks are found, stop the engine and determine the source of the problem before starting the engine again. Contact your Victory dealer if you cannot determine the source of the leak. NOTE: After the engine is started, the oil indicator light should go off. If the indicator light flickers or remains on, immediately stop the engine and take your motorcycle to a Victory dealer. 10. Stop the engine and inspect oil level (refer to the Owner’sManualorService Manual). 11. Install the fill cap/dipstick and tighten securely

S&S 106" Stroker Hot Set Up Kit For Victory Freedom Engines

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Follow the Transmission & Crankshaft section of your Victory motorcycle service manual for disassembling your Victory engine. 2-Your new S&S crankshaft and connecting rods will require assembly. S&S connecting rods aremachined to use the Orange Victory® rod bearings that are included in the kit (Bearing P/N 3514390-159). Perform rod bearing clearance inspection as follows: A-Wash or clean all of the following components: crankshaft crankpin, rods and rod bores, bearing inserts. B-Place a strip of Plastigauge®across the width of the crankpin. NOTE: Green Plastigauge (.001-.003″) is commonly used for this procedure, it can be purchased at the local automotive parts store. Do not place Plastigauge across oil holes. Be careful not to allow the rods to move during the rest of the inspection procedure. C-Mark the rod and cap at the separation line with a Sharpie®, Dykem®, or permanent marker to prevent rod caps from getting swapped from their original rod during the inspection and assembly process. See Picture2. Picture 1 S&S Crankshaft & Connecting Rods NOTE: Bearings not shown. 3 Picture 2 WARNING
D-Install connecting rods and bearing caps in the same order they were received. E-Torque rod bolts to 5 ft-lbs to seat caps. Then final torque bolts to 40 ft-lbs. F-Remove bearing caps carefully to prevent disturbing the Plastigauge®. G-Measure the widest part of the crushed Plastigauge to determine the rod bearing clearance. Do so by using the bands provided on the Plastigauge label. See Picture 3. H-Specification for oil clearance is: .00091″-.00279″ l If the resultant clearance is less than this specification, the bearings will need to be replaced with the thinner black color coded bearings, not available through S&S (Victory®P/N 3514390-067). l If the resultant clearance is greater than the specification, the bearings will need to be replaced with the thicker blue color coded bearings, not available through S&S (VictoryP/N 3514390-027). l If clearance is not within specification, clean old Plastigauge off components and reassemble rods to crankpin with a new strip of Plastigauge and the thinner or thicker bearings as determined above

VICTORY BLACK LIGHT LEAK DETECTOR KIT

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 31-10-2010

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AMMCO HONE KIT Rigid hone to correct tapered and out of round cylinders. Range: 47.6 mm – 69.8 mm (1 7/8″ – 2 3/4″). Contains 60 and 220 grit stones, driveshank with depth stop and metal storage box. Oversize stone kits increase range to 92 mm ( 35/8″). Replacement Stone Kits are shown below. All stones shown below are included in the kit including the new PU-49876. 2870304 – REPLACEMENT STONE KIT – 60 Grit (47.6 0 69.8mm) 2870305 – REPLACEMENT STONE KIT – 220 Grit (47.6 – 69.8mm) 2870306 – REPLACEMENT STONE KIT – 60 Grit (69.8-92.8mm) 2870307 – REPLACEMENT STONE KIT – 220 Grit (69.8 0 92.8mm) 2871536 – REPLACEMENT STONE KIT – 69.8 for Ni-Ca-Sil deglazing PU-49876 – 320 GRIT REPLACEMENT STONE SET 2870386 PISTON PIN PULLER Removes 18 mm piston pins from all Polaris pistons. Required for many Polaris puller attachments. Note: Some engines require adapters. Available Adapters: 2871342 2871445 2870390 PISTON SUPPORT BLOCK Safely supports piston while disassembling or assembling engine top end. 2870569 CRANKSHAFT TRUING STAND For holding crankshaft while checking runout for all Polaris engines. 2870588 HONING OIL 12 oz can with dispensing tip. Promotes better finishes, faster cutting and longer stone life. Engine VICTORY 83 PU-46219 OIL EXTRACTOR Used to draw the engine oil from the crankcase. PV-35457 BLACK LIGHT LEAK DETECTOR KIT The Black Light Oil Leak Detector provides an effective time saving method for pinpointing engine oil leaks. Simply add 1 oz. of fluorescent oil additive to the engine crankcase (6 – 1 oz. bottles included). Run the engine for ten minutes to circulate the fluorescent oil additive throughout the engine. Oil leak will fluoresce a bright yellow when illuminated with PV-35457 Black Light. Includes: Fluorescent Black Light PV-28431-6 Oil Additive (6) 1 oz. Bottles (available separately) PV-28431-6 – LEAK DETECTION DYE PV-35667-A CYLINDER LEAKDOWN TESTER PV-35667-A will test for worn piston rings, cylinder walls, valves, gaskets and any other related leakage problems. Uses shop air. M12 x 1.25 Adapter and instructions included. PV-39951-A ENGINE TACHOMETER This digital tachometer accurately measures engine RPM and maximum RPM of 2 or 4-stroke engines. The dual display allows for readings of current RPM alone or current and maximum RPM. Also features two maximum RPM memories for comparison

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