Yamaha V-Star 1100 Jetting the Carburetors INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 11-03-2012

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Remove air filter housing Remove the seat or seats Disconnect Fuel Lines (also the vapor line from tank to charcoal canister on California models) Disconnect instrument connectors from the fuel tank Remove fuel tank Remove air box Disconnect TPS and heater connectors Remove chrome carb cover Disconnect Fuel Lines Remove rubber carb elbows Disconnect throttle cables from carbs Remove the carbs Perform the jetting 1. Remove the Chrome air filter housing. To remove the chrome dog-dish (air filter housing) from the right side of the bike, you will need to remove the two mounting bolts and loosen the clamp that holds the air duct to the back of the housing. You will need a 5 mm Allen wrench and a #2 Philips screwdriver. 2. Remove the seats. This can be accomplished by using a 5 mm Allen wrench and removing the Allen head bolt from just behind the rear seat and the bolt just behind the front seat. Pulling up and back will free the seats. One smooth motion will do it. 3. Gain access to the dashboard plug and unplug it (It is white) Note: Your trip odometer will lose its count, please record the number if you wish to save your current mileage for this tank of gas. Figure A shows the three plastic rivets that need to be removed to gain access to the dashboard plug. Using your Philips head screwdriver, press the small circle in the middle of the rivets down… a click is felt. Remove the rivets by hand. You have freed the cover and you may lift it up to expose the electrical connector that needs to be unplugged. Figure B shows the plug

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Yamaha 1998-2001 YZF-R1 Installation Instructions (Slip on system)

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 16-02-2012

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Remove the lower fairing. 2. Remove the existing exhaust system from the EXUP valve rearward (EXUP valve is retained). Save the stock exhaust clamp for reuse. 3. Inspect the exhaust gasket. Replace if necessary. 4. Install the S-Bend to the rear of the EXUP valve, make sure the system fits flush. Reuse the stock exhaust clamp to connect the S-bend to the valve. 5. Install the TiForce end can to the S-bend tail pipe. 6. Loosely attach the two rubber bands, stainless steel bands (K), and stay to the end can using the supplied 6mm hardware (H) and the hanger / stay arm (G). (See figure 1) . 7. Place the bands approximately 180mm from the edge of the end can. (See figure 2) . 8. Using the stock provided mounting point on the passenger foot peg, use the M10x45mm bolt and hardware to mount the end can loosely, allowing for some adjustment. 9. Carefully align the two stainless bands so that they are parallel to each other, and spaced properly on the can. Tighten the 6mm hardware (H). Make sure that the rubber pads fully cover the bands (K). USE CAUTION WHEN TIGHTENING THE 6MM HARDWARE AND THE TWO BANDS SO AS NOT TO CRUSH OR DISTORT THE SLEEVE OF THE CAN. 10. Using some brake and contact cleaner on a clean rag, carefully wipe down the entire exhaust system to remove any residual oils, anti seize, fingerprints and dirt prior to starting the motor. FAILURE TO CLEAN THE TUBING AND CAN MAY RESULT IN PERMANENT STAINING OF THE SYSTEM WHEN HEATED. 11. Attach the supplied springs to secure the end can to the S-bend pipe. Make sure the exhaust system is free and clear of the bike. If necessary, adjust for proper clearance. 12. Go back and tighten all fasteners. 13. Check that all fasteners are tightened per specifications, then start the motor and check for exhaust leaks. 14. Reinstall the fairing lowers.

1981-1983 Yamaha Virago 750 & 920 Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 11-02-2012

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Start by loosening the rear cylinder down tube bolt located on the top of the old mufflers center collector in front of the rear tire. 2. Remove both of the front cylinder exhaust pipe head nuts and set them to the side for reuse with the MAC exhaust system. 3. Remove the right side passenger’s foot peg. Set the foot peg aside as you will need to reinstall it. 4. Remove the left side passenger’s foot peg. Set this foot peg aside as it will also need to be reinstalled. Note: When you remove this bolt the entire exhaust system will be loose and may fall. You will need to support the old exhaust at this point to keep from injuring yourself. Gently move the old exhaust system side to side to remove it from the rear cylinder down tube. Once the exhaust system is loose from the down tube remove the system from under the Virago. 5. Remove the bolt holding the rear brake pedal in place and remove the brake pedal from the motorcycle. Note: Set both the bolt and the pedal aside for reinstallation. 6. Next loosen the nut on the drivers right foot peg, 1 full turn to start with. Then remove the rear nut on the same foot peg. (Note: The bolt that this nut is on goes completely through the motorcycle. This is the center stand mounting bolt.) Now remove the front nut and set both aside for reuse with the MAC system. 7. Install the center stand stop bracket under the left passenger foot peg. Install this bracket with the 90° bend facing down and towards the rear tire. (Note: Center stand sop bracket in provided in the hardware kit and is approx. 5″ long with a 90° bend in it.) Adjust the bracket by one of the large bolts through the foot peg then through the bracket and then install it into the stock location. Put on one of the washers and a nut and snug up the nut. Lower the center stand until the center stand come in to contact with the bottom of the bracket. Tighten the nut until it will hold the bracket securely. 8. Install the rear down tube clamp onto the rear muffler and install the medium sized nut/bolt/washer onto the clamp just finger tight. 9. Install the (2) small bolts into the channel bracket on the rear muffler. Install the rear mounting bracket onto the two bolts and then install the washers and nuts onto each. Tighten the (2) nuts only slight amount so that you can slide the bracket front to rear to insure that when you install the bracket you position it properly. 10. Slide the rear pipe onto the rear down tube about ¼”to ¾” past the pre-cut slots on the rear muffler pipe. Slightly snug the clamp making sure that the position of the bolt and nut will not interfere with any moving parts. The final position of this bolt can hit the tire if it is not positioned properly. 11. Install the other large bolt into the right passenger and then through the top hole in the rear muffler mounting bracket. Insert the bolt into the stock location and install the washer and the nut. 12. Align the rear muffler and you can then tighten the nuts on the rear muffler mounting bracket, the cylinder down tube and the right side passenger foot peg.
13. Install the front muffler on the rear most mounting bolt of the drivers foot peg and put the stock nut back onto the bolt. Hand tighten the bolt only at this time. Note: Install the nut at this time is only to support the muffler and to insure that the pipe does not fall on the ground while you complete the next step. 14. Lift the front head pipe into position and start the stock nuts onto the studs. It is strongly recommended that you install new exhaust gasket at this time. Note: The new exhaust gaskets are not included in the kit but are available at your local Yamaha Dealer. After gaskets are installed hand tighten the front head pipe. 15. Remove the nut from the drivers foot peg bolt and reinstall the drivers foot peg. Note: Hand tighten only at this time. 16. Finish tightening the nuts on the front head pipes. (Install these nuts according to Yamaha’s Factory specifications.) Once the nuts are tightened on the head pipe you can then tighten the drivers foot peg nuts. 17. Reinstall the rear brake pedal and tighten the bolt that holds it on to factory specifications. 18. Check all of the bolts that you have installed of removed to insure that they are tight. 19. Start the motorcycle and check for any leaks. 20. You are finished with your new MAC Exhaust System.

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Yamaha TDM 900 Disconnecting the battery ground REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 29-01-2012

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Remove the seat. • Disconnect the battery ground (negative terminal). Remove the fairing side panels. • Remove the four marked hex screws with plastic washers. Note the positions the screws come from as they are not all the same. • Note that the bottom, rear hex bolt has a retaining plastic washer INSIDE the fairing. The long bolt goes under the ‘twin’ label. • Remove the hex screw indicated on the inside of the fairing panel. • Remove the grey Phillip’s head screw as indicated on the inside panel. • Remove the plastic locking clip on the underside of the fairing behind the radiator.

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YAMAHA V-Star 650 BIG AIR KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 21-01-2012

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Remove fuel tank and air filter assembly per Yamaha service manual procedures. 2. Remove the air silencer box under the tank. 3. Install supplied BA-2410-00 Needle/Jet kit according to the instructions in the jet kit package being sure to use the Jets and Needle Slot setting called out for the external BAK filter assemble. 4. Reinstall the air silencer box under the tank. 5. Remove the rubber boot from the stock air box. It is glued-in from the factory, but will come loose if gently persuaded. See photo #1 Our install guides provide a basic outline on the proper installation of our products. Further tuning and/or fitment may be required. Barons bears no responsibility on installation costs associated with this product. © 2010 Barons Custom Accessories 7401 Slater Ave. Huntington Beach, CA 92647 (714)274-4065 – Ph. (714)848-0718 – Faxwww.baronscustom.comtech@baronscustom.com Page: 2 BA-2011-00/03/06/07/13/13B BIG AIR KIT – YAMAHA V-Star 650 6. Install the stock rubber boot into your new Baron air filter backing plate with the supplied glue. Squeeze glue liberally into sealing groove in stock rubber boot. See photo #2 Allow glue to set up and dry prior to mounting onto bike

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How To Adjust the Accelerator Pump On the 40mm Mikuni Carburetor

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 21-01-2012

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1) The “blue” colored screw in the image is the duration adjustment screw. Underneath the head of the screw is a lock nut and the bracket arm that the screw is threaded into. To decrease the amount of fuel squirted the adjustment screw is turned “clockwise” or in. To increase the amount of fuel squirted the adjustment screw is turned “counter clockwise” or out. To get the max, amount of decrease remove the screw and take the lock nut off of the screw. Then replace the screw into the cam arm, then replace the lock nut underneath the arm on the screw. this gives you another 3/32″ of an inch in which the screw can be screwed in.
2) Turn the adjustment screw fully clockwise or IN. Start your engine, Blip your throttle open, if the engine stutters, (hesitates), it is not getting enough fuel so turn the screw counter clockwise to increase the amount of fuel squirted from the accelerator pump into the carburetor. Keep blipping the throttle and adjusting the screw till the carburetor starts to cough. Stop here and turn the screw back in till the coughing stops. Tighten down the lock nut. This should give you the best throttle response with the least amount of coughing and backfiring out the carburetor. Timing Adjustment Screw This is the “Green” colored screw just above the Blue duration adjustment screw. The” Mucker” said it best,,,,, This upper screw adjusts the “timing” of the squirt. By altering it’s setting, you can advance or delay the onset of the fuel squirt. But probably, it won’t have to be touched

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1993-2004 Yamaha 350 Warrior Install Dynojet

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 20-01-2012

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Q406.002 This is Groove # 1 Fig. A Fig. B Mixture Screw Remove Slide Plate Screws Remove The Lift Arm Screw 1. Remove top carb plate. Remove the slide lift arm screw and the two needle plate screws. Flip the linkage forward and remove the slide (Fig. A). 2. Install Dynojet needle on groove #4 for applications below 5000 feet, groove #3 for above 5000 feet, using all stock spacers. 3. Remove the stock main jet and replace with the Dynojet main jet provided. If you are running the stock exhaust, use the DJ134 below 3000 feet, DJ130 from 3000 to 6000 feet and DJ126 above 6000 feet. If you are running an aftermarket exhaust, use the DJ136 below 3000 feet, DJ132 from 3000 to 6000 feet and DJ128 above 6000 feet. Be sure that the jet you are changing is the main jet. Discard the plastic cup that is on the stock main jet. 4. Locate the Fuel Mixture Screw (Fig.B). Using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the mixture screw clockwise until it seats, then turn out 2 1/2 turns.

Yamaha WR 250F and WR450F Dual Sport Kit REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 20-01-2012

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license Plate Mount Installation: Locate the aluminum license plate mount and license plate light assembly. Remove the rear most nut securing the stock taillight assembly (underneath the fender) (don’t lose the little compression tube and washer). Temporarily install the license plate mount to this location and mark the fender where it needs to be drilled for the rear mounts. Drill the fender in two places with a ¼” drill and reinstall the license plate assembly using the stock taillight mount and the 6 x 20 mm countersunk screws, bezels and nylock nuts Rear Turn Signal Installation: Locate the two rear turn signals in the kit – they’re the ones with the longer wires. Drill a 3/8 hole in each side of the fender as shown in Photo 3 and attach them as shown in Photo 4. It does no matter which signal goes on which side. Run the left turn signal wires forward along with the taillight wires, up through the grommet in the fender to the area just behind the air box cross member and above the fender. Run the right turn signal wires forward along the right frame rail, and through the same hole you made for the license plate wires Brake Light Switch Installation: The WR250/450 uses a hydraulic brake switch. This requires replacing the rear master cylinder banjo bolt with a specially made switch. Installing the switch requires bleeding the rear brake. If you do not feel competent bleeding your rear brake, please refer this job to a qualified mechanic, as failure to do it correctly will make the brake inoperable. Remove the rear master cylinder guard. Remove the bolt holding the brake fluid reservoir to provide access to the master cylinder. Loosen the banjo bolt securing the rear brake line to the master cylinder. Typically, this bolt will be very tight and loosening it will bend the support hanger for the master cylinder if not supported. Brace the master cylinder with a wrench or lever. Remove the banjo bolt and replace with the hydraulic switch. Make sure to install the copper crush washer from the stock bolt under the switch. Torque the switch assembly to 25 lb-ft.

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YAMAHA Fuel System REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012

STAINLESS STEEL bracket made of marine grade Stainless Steel for ultimate corrosion protection and durability. Available in 1/ 4 ” and 3/ 8 ” inlet/outlet versions. b ALUMINUM bracket 3/ 8 ” inlet/outlet for easy installation on high-horsepower boats. Filter Features… Filter Features… Filter Features… Filter Features… Filter Features… * 28 Micron filter element shaped into 66 pleats.More pleats means more capacity. * Steel end caps on elements. More Filter Features… More Filter Features… More Filter Features… More Filter Features… More Filter Features… * Heavy duty spring. * Powder coated outside, epoxy coated inside for corrosion protection. * Meets OEM specifications. * Will not separate 2 cycle oil from gasoline. * Do not use with diesel fuel. * Made in the U.S.A. * Best flow rate of all major brands * New attractive retail packaging

YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Carburetor Bowl Screw Repair and Removal After Stripping and Pilot Cap Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012

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When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.

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