YAMAHA YFM 350 Removing stock carburetor and cables.

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012

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Remove seat and gas tank. Make sure fuel petcock is in “off” position. 2. Remove throttle cable paying close attention to routing, as the new cable (s) will need too be routed the same. 3. Remove stock carburetor and stock throttle housing. Preparing motor for carburetor install 1. Remove stock manifold from cylinder head. 2. Place supplied o’ring into aluminum flange as pictured in figure 1. Figure 1. 3. Install aluminum and rubber flange to motor using supplied bolts. See Figure 2. The shorter 25mm bolt will need to be placed in the bottom hole. IMPORTANT NOTE: Install the aluminum flange with the o’ring towards the motor and the thick side up.

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YAMAHA RAPTOR 350 Removing stock carburetor and cables

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 18-01-2012

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remove seat and gas tank. Make sure fuel petcock is in “off” position. 2. Remove throttle cable paying close attention to routing, as the new cable (s) will need too be routed the same. 3. Remove stock carburetor and stock throttle housing. Stuff a clean, dry rag into manifold to keep debris out of motor. 4. Remove stock air box. 5. Remove choke cable from handlebars. 6. Remove carb vent line from bike. Carburetor installation 1. Carefully trim the rubber alignment tab off of the face of the manifold with a razor blade or side cutters. 2. Remove the hex pipe plug from the carb cap using a 11mm or 7/16 wrench. Do not discard plug, as it will be needed later. Install the metering adjustment tool included in the hardware kit. Do not over-tighten as damage may occur to cap. 3. Attach fuel line to carburetor and secure with clamp. 4. Install remote idle cable into tab on top of carburetor. See main manual for this step. NOTE: Nut must be removed from cable before installation 5. Place carburetor into manifold

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Yamaha 2005 R1 Bike Tech Sheet

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 18-01-2012

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Engine: Type: Liquid cooled, four stroke, transverse four cylinder, DOHC, 5 valves per cylinder. Displacement: 1000cc Year: 2005 Horsepower: 180hp Clutch: PM Exhaust: Vance & Hines Race Exhaust Mufflers: Vance & Hines Frame: Type: Stock Year: 2005 Swing Arm: Performance Machine Chromoly +4 Extended Shocks: Race Tech Modifications: Race Tech Tuned and Lowered. Forks: Stock lowered 2.5″ Rim: Performance Machine Contrast Cut Torque Size: 19″ X 3.0″ Finish: Contrast Cut Fender: None Tire: Dunlop Sportmax D208ZR 120/70ZR19 Brake: Dual Performance Machine 4 piston Radial Calipers Wheels Rear: Rim: Performance Machine Contrast Cut Torque Size: 18″ X 8.5″ Brake: Performance Machine 4 piston Radial Caliper Finish: Contrast Cut Tire: Dunlop Elite3 250/40/R18 Other Parts: Handlebars: Stock Foot Controls: Over Racing Seat: Stock Turn Signals F/R: Anything Extra? Mirrors: Performance Machine Torque chrome Mirrors 19″ FRONT WHEEL! Paint, Chrome, and other F/X’s: Colors: yellow/Black Type: Special Paint: AirTrix Industries The Painter: Chris Wood Powder Coating: A to Z Coatings

Yamaha Forward Control Kit INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 17-01-2012

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After you have assembled the shift control onto your motorcycle you must align the footpeg. The folding footpeg assembly uses a blind stud to attach the footpeg to the footpeg pivot. Shim washers (3/8″ x .015″) are used on the stud between the footpeg and the pivot, see Photo 4, so that the top surface of the footpeg is correctly aligned for your foot when it is tightened down on the pivot. This is done by setting a couple of shim washers on the footpeg mounting stud “A” and then screwing the footpeg onto the mounting stud, if the footpeg is rotated to far forward then add another shim washer, if not far enough then remove a shim washer. After you have the selected the correct number of shims for your footpeg, disassemble the footpeg and put a drop of Loctite #271 (red) on both ends of the stud and reassemble the footpeg. This will also need to be done on the brake control footpeg. Setting Up the Master Cylinder The master cylinder pushrod return spring and pushrod boot must be installed on the master cylinder before it is assembled onto the forward control mount. The parts are shown in Photo 5: pushrod boot (A), pushrod return spring (B), spring seat washer (C), and master cylinder (D). Place the return spring seat washer into bore of master cylinder so that is sits on top of the piston retaining snap ring. Next set the pushrod return spring on the seat washer and slide the pushrod boot over the return spring now slip the big end of the boot over the flange on the master cylinder so that the ridge on the inside of the boot fits into groove “A” that is machined into the end of the master cylinder flange, see Photo 6. Installing The Brake Control Unplug stock brake light switch at master cylinder. Remove brake line from rear caliper. Remove the existing brake controls from your motorcycle down to the control mounting lug that is welded on to the frame’s right side, see Photo 8. Save Metric hardware for later use

YAMAHA Installing the Motorcycle Enhancements Remote Oil Filter

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 17-01-2012

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In order to install the new Remote Oil Filter Kit, you’ll need to remove the stock Yamaha “beauty cover” and the old filter and filter cover. Remove the engine parts necessary to access the stock filter as outlined in the V-Star owner’s manual. The parts should come off in this order: 1. Muffler assembly 2. Front exhaust pipe 3. Rear brake reservoir cover bolt and brake cover (the reservoir should not be removed, it can remain in place and be moved aside as needed) 4. Right floorboard (this can be simply loosened, by loosening the two bolts underneath) With the above parts removed, you can remove the Allen bolts holding the beauty cover and filter cap from your engine. There are five Allen bolts holding the beauty cover (so named, because most of the cover just covers the chromed side of the engine
There are five bolts holding the cover. Ignore the three on the “Yamaha” cap in the middle – these just hold the Yamaha cap to the beauty cover itself. One bolt is hidd – in this picture – just be the Yamaha ca en low p

YAMAHA ROADSTAR/ WARRIOR ADJUSTABLE REAR LOWERING KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 16-01-2012

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Secure motorcycle to a bike lift and raise the motorcycle. Rear wheel should remain barely resting on the ground. 2. See diagram on page 2 for references made in parentheses, for example (#5). 3. Remove the nut from the rear suspension bolt (#5) at the bottom of the shock (#7). You may need to remove your exhaust and rear horn to access the nut and bolt. 4. Remove this suspension bolt (#5) from the non-exhaust side of the bike. You may need to raise or lower the bike to ease the tension on the bolt in order for it to come out. 5. Next remove the nut (#4) and bolt connecting the relay arm (#3) to the swingarm. From here remove the entire shock assembly and relay arm from the bike. For ease of re-installing the relay arm (Step 8) and shock be sure to take precautions that in removing the assembly, you can put it back the same way you took it off. Flipping of the relay arm can cause serious damage to the lowering kit and surrounding components. 6. Remove the two suspension arms from the relay arm(#3) and shock(#7). Compare stock arm to length of lowering arm you are about to install. Make sure the length of the lowering arm matches the link of the stock arm. To set how much you want to lower the bike, lengthen the lowering arms. Every 1/4″ longer than stock is approximately 1″ of drop. Do not lower the bike more than 2″ for safety reasons. To adjust, unscrew the large hex shaft from the threaded rods. Make sure to adjust length equally on both shafts. Be sure to tighten all jam nuts once desired lowering position is set. 7. Re-assemble the lowering arms to the top of the shock (#7) using the supplied collar, nut, and bolt. The stock collar (#6), the one in the eyelet at the top of the shock (#7), will need to be removed as it is too long. (This is because the heims are thicker than the stock arms) Do not tighten the nut, or re-install into the frame yet. 8. Re-install the relay arm (#3) to the swingarm. The large hex shafts go to the rear of the bike. This is where it

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Yamaha V-Star 650 Jet Kit REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 16-01-2012

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Remove the vacuum slide from the carburetor. • Remove the OEM needle and spacer, noting the order of assembly. • Counting from the top to the bottom, install the new Baron needle clip on groove #4 of the replacement Baron adjustable needle. • Reinstall the OEM spacer and washer. • Reinstall the vacuum slide along with the diaphragm spring. • Reattach the diaphragm cover and tighten its screws. Note: Verify that the slide maintains a full range of movement! • Drain the fuel from float bowl and remove the bowl cover. • Remove the new cap head Allen screws in place of the OEM Phillips head screws. • Repeat above steps for other OEM main jet and pilot jet, and replace them with Baron’s main and pilot jets. • Thoroughly clean the inside of the float bowl prior to reinstalling it. • Reassemble the carburetor by reversing the order of previous steps. Use thecarburetor. • Locate the fuel mixture plug on each carburetor; it will either be a screw head or a brass plug. If it is a screw head, skip to step c . If you see a brass plug with a small hole in the center, proceed as follows: a. With a 5/32″ drill bit, carefully and slowly drill through the fuel mixture plug for each carburetor. CAUTION: The fuel mixture screw is located directly beneath this plug. Be prepared to stop the drill and remove the bit the instant you break through the plug. b. Insert a self-tapping sheet metal screw into the drilled hole and remove the plug. 311 #1 Industrial Way – Fallbrook, CA 92028 – USA Phone: (760) 731-1200 Fax: (760) 731-1284 E-mail: tech@baronscustom.com Website: www.baronscustom.com Included in this kit: (2) Mikuni main jets, (2) pilot jets, (2) titanium needles, (2) clips, (8) cap head Allen screws Revision 2.0 c. With air/fuel screw now accessible, use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the screw clockwise until it seats, then carefully turn it counter-clockwise 3 turns. Refer to final step for assistance in fine-tuning the setting of the air/fuel adjustment screw. • Reinstall the OEM air filter assembly. • Check all vent lines, fuel lines, and linkage for any obstructions or blockage

SR-i500 FM 2-Way Security System INSTALLATION MANUAL AND USER'S GUIDE

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 15-01-2012

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Perimeter sensor – A miniature multi stage microwave sensor that detects motion in mass around the motorcycle, and uniquely protects its parts and accessories. Detects any attempt to tamper with saddlebags, luggage or accessories. • Ignition disable and anti-hijack kit – Allows remote disabling of the motorcycle’s electrical system, should someone force you off your bike. Also prevents the engine from being started when the system is armed. • Back-up battery Transmitter -Built in back up power capacitors with voltage sensing circuitry will ensure operation of the paging system even if wires are cut or battery is disconnected. • Factory Connector Kits -OEM style connectors that simply plug into the motorcycle’s factory wiring harness. Connector kits are available for select motorcycle models.

Yamaha YZ250F 2001-2080 Wiseco High Performance Camshaft INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 15-01-2012

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Wiseco’s new Camshafts are made from premium materials, state-of-the-art forgings, machined to exact tolerances, and specifically engineered for high performance and maximum durability. Brought to you by one of the most trusted names in the industry… Wiseco. Wiseco Cam- blue OEM Cam- red Wiseco’s new high-performance camshafts for the Yamaha YZ250F produce 3% horsepower and 3% torque gain over the stock OEM camshaft across the entire RPM range.

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YAMAHA RHINO PERFORMER NITROUS SYSTEM INSTALLATION MANUALS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 14-01-2012

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The nitrous bottle is an aluminum cylinder designed and manufactured to withstand very high internal pressures. The valve on top of the bottle is a high-flow design that allows easy opening and closing which controls the nitrous flow to the engine compartment. Accurate calibration of your nitrous system depends on the bottle remaining at a stable temperature. In vehicles where the bottle must be mounted in an area subject to direct sunlight, it is suggested that the bottle be shielded with a bottle blanket when not in use. Here is the performer bottle valve. Installed on all bottle valves used in Edelbrock Nitrous Systems is a pressure relief device or “PRD”. It is a safety device designed to vent the contents of the bottle into the atmosphere if over-pressurization occurs. Unsafe bottle pressure is caused by over filling or elevated bottle temperatures. It is illegal to tamper with or remove the pressure relief device! Bottle Safety Information 1. Do not attempt to remove the bottle valve. Please return your bottle to Edelbrock if service is required to the siphon tube or the bottle valve itself. 2. Never heat the outside of your nitrous bottle with an open flame such as a torch. 3. Do not strike the surface of your nitrous bottle with a heavy or sharp object. 4. Do not drop your nitrous bottle. 5. Do not attempt to grind off or destroy any imprinted markings on the face of the bottle. 6. Do not remove, modify or otherwise tamper with the pressure relief device on the bottle valve. 7. Do not attempt to use a bottle that has been damaged or tampered with

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