1500 vulcan engine removal

You search Auto repair manual PDF 1500 vulcan engine removal, if there are search results will appear below. If search results do not exist, please search by others keyword.



  1500 vulcan engine removal Direct Download speed 5282 Kb/s

  1500 vulcan engine removal Full Version speed 6162 Kb/s



HARLEY DAVIDSON BLACK ENGINE GUARD KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

0

Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-02-2011

download
REMOVAL NOTE This Instruction Sheet covers several different Harley-Davidson models and years. Be sure to locate and follow the procedures that apply to the motorcycle receiving the new guard. For Models without Lower Fairings 1. Proceed to For All Models section. For Model FLHTCUI (Ultra Classic Electra Glide) with Factory-Installed Lower Fairings 1. Remove the lower fairings following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 2. When the lower fairings have been removed, proceed to For All Models section. For Models FLHR/I (Road King), FLHT (Electra Glide Standard) or FLHTC/I (Electra Glide Classic) with Harley-Davidson Genuine Motor Accessory Lower Fairings 1. See Figure 1. Remove the two black screws (1) that attach the fairing cap (2) to the lower fairing (5). Remove the cap. Set the parts aside for re-installation. 2. Remove the screw (7), rubber washer (8) and locknut (10) and the clamp (9) that attaches the bottom of the lower fairing to the engine guard and set aside. 3. Remove the two locknuts (3), U-bolt (6) and U-bolt retainer (4). 4. Remove the lower fairing by sliding it out from behind the engine guard. 5. Repeat Steps 1 through 4 for the opposite side. 6. Proceed to For All Models section. For Model FLTR/I (Road Glide) with Harley-Davidson Genuine Motor Accessory Lower Fairings Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Disconnect the battery, negative (-) battery cable first, following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 2. Remove the seat following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 3. Remove the cable strap holding the clutch cable to the engine guard. 4. See Figure 2. Remove the TORX screw (8), rubber washer (9) and locknut (11) and the clamp (10) that attaches the bottom of the lower fairing (4) to the engine guard and set aside INSTALLATION 1. Hold the engine guard in position, and loosely fasten the top of the guard with the new hex socket screw and flat washer from the kit. 2. Install the bottom brackets to the motorcycle frame with the two new TORX screws and locknuts. 3. Tighten all three screws to 15-20 ft-lbs (20.3-27.1 Nm) . For Model FLHTCUI (Ultra Classic Electra Glide) with Factory-Installed Lower Fairings 1. Install the lower fairings following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. For Models FLHR/I (Road King), FLHT (Electra Glide Standard) or FLHTC/I (Electra Glide Classic) with Harley- Davidson Genuine Motor Accessory Lower Fairings 1. Carefully place one lower fairing in position from behind the engine guard. 2. See Figure 1. Install the lower fairing to the top of the new engine guard with the U-bolt (6) from the back, through the holes at the top of the fairing. Install the retainer (4) in position on the U-bolt and secure to the engine guard with the two locknuts (3). Do not tighten the locknuts at this time. 3. Attach the bottom of the fairing to the engine guard with the clamp (9) removed earlier. Install the clamp around the engine guard in the direction shown, with the tabs toward the rear of the vehicle and the flat side of the clamp against the lower fairing. Insert the screw (7) through the lower fairing, rubber washer (8) and clamp (9). Secure the assembly with the locknut (10). Tighten to 12 ft-lbs (16.3 Nm) .

Incoming search terms:

Yamaha V-Star 650 Engine Guard REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

0

Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 03-01-2012

download
Protect the rear portion of the front fender with a towel or other thick, soft cloth. Remove the OEM engine guards if they have been installed on the motorcycle. Your new Barons engine guard will fasten to the frame at the same points as the OEM guard and will use the same hardware. 2. Or, if OEM engine guards are not present, remove the 14mm bolts from the underside of the drivers footpeg mounts. 3. Remove the 12mm upper engine mount bolts located on both sides of the frame. Replacement bolts are included with your new engine guard. 4. Position the engine guard so that the lower brackets point towards the rear of the motorcycle, and slide the engine guard into the space between the front wheel and the frame. 5. Raise the guard until the holes in the lower mounting brackets align with the vacated bolt holes beneath the drivers footpegs. Due to production line tolerances in both the motorcycle and the engine guard, the mounting brackets may be too wide or too narrow for the frame. If this is the case, remove the guard from the motorcycle. Place the guard on a flat, firm surface. Insert a towel or other protective material between the guard and the surface. Using a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer, tap the lower brackets until they are correctly spaced. 6. Insert the large washers (supplied with the guard) between the rear face of the lower bracket and the frame. The washer fills the space between the lower mounting bracket and the footpeg mount. Reinsert the 14mm bolts and finger tighten. 7. Rotate the guard until the holes in the upper mounting brackets align with the empty holes on each side of the frame. 8. Insert the replacement 13mm bolts, along with their washers, and tighten securely. Tighten all other nuts and bolts securely. 9. Remove the protection on the front fender and you’re ready to ride. CAUTION!!! You must re-tighten all four of the engine guard mounting bolts after 100 miles of riding! Care & Cleaning: Engine guards take the full brunt of the worst of what the weather in your area has to offer, making it critical that proper and complete cleaning take place on a weekly basis, or corrosion will occur which is not covered by warranty! Proper cleaning procedure would be to use a product like Simple Green, LOC, Salt-Away or similar. Mix a strong batch and apply it liberally with a soft towel or soft nylon brush to the entire

Incoming search terms:

KTM 60 SX / 65 SX REPAIR MANUAL ENGINE

0

Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010

download
Carburetor adjustment Basic information about the original carburetor setting The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient temperature of approx. 20°C (68°F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (ROZ 95). Mixing ratio 2-stroke motor oil : super fuel 1:40 . Basic information of changing the carburetor setting Always start out from the original carburetor setting. Essential requirements are a clean air filter system, air-tight exhaust system and an intact carburetor. Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the jet needle is sufficient and that changes of other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance. RULE OF THUMB: high altitude or high temperatures  choose leaner carburetor adjustment low altitude or low temperatures  choose richer carburetor adjustment * WARNING * -ONLYUSE PREMIUM – GRADE GASOLINE ROZ 95 MIXED WITH HIGH – GRADE TWO – STROKE ENGINE OIL . OTHER TYPES OF GASOLINE CAN CAUSE ENGINE FAILURE , AND USE OF SAME WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY . -ONLYUSE HIGH – GRADE 2- STROKE ENGINE OIL OF KNOWN BRANDS ( I . E .SHELL ADVANCE RACING X). -NOTENOUGH OIL OR LOW – GRADE OILCAN CAUSE EROSION OF THE PISTON . USING TOO MUCH OIL , THE ENGINE CAN START SMOKING AND FOUL THE SPARKPLUG . -INTHE CASE OFA LEANER ADJUSTMENT OF THE CARBURETOR PROCEED CAUTIOUSLY . ALWAYSREDUCETHEJETSIZEINSTEPSOFONENUMBERTOAVOID OVERHEATING AND PISTON SEIZURE . NOTE: If despite a changed adjustment the engine does not run properly, look for mechanical faults and check the ignition system. Basic information on carburetor wear As a result of engine vibrations, throttle valve, jet needle, and needle jet are subjected to increased wear. This wear may cause carburetor malfunction (e.g., overly rich mixture). Therefore, these parts should be replaced after 1000 hours of using. Idling range – A Operation with closed throttle valve. This range is influenced by the idle adjusting screw 1 . Only make adjustments when the engine is hot. The idling speed can be changed by turning the idle adjusting screw. Turning it clockwise produces a higher idling speed and turning the screw counterclockwise produces a lower idling speed. Opening up – B Engine behavior when the throttle opens. The idle jet and the shape of the throttle valve influences this range. If, despite good idling-speed and part-throttle setting, the engine sputters and smokes when the throttle is fully opened and develops its full power not smoothly but suddenly at high engine speeds, the mixture to the carburetor will be too rich, the fuel level too high or the float needle is leaking. Part-throttle range – C Operation with partly open throttle valve. This range is only influenced by the jet needle (shape and position). The optimum part-throttle setting is controlled by the idling setting in the lower range and by the main jet in the upper range. If the engine runs on a four-stroke cycle or with reduced power when it is accelerated with the throttle partly open, the jet needle must be lowered by one notch. If then the engine pings, especially when accelerating under full power at maximum engine revs, the jet needle should be raised. If these faults should occur at the lower end of the part throttle range at a four-stroke running, make the idling range leaner; if the engine pings, adjust the idling range richer

Incoming search terms:

2004 Honda CRF450R OWNER'S MANUAL

0

Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-11-2010

download
motorcycle can be kickstarted with the transmission in gear by disengaging the clutch before operating the kickstarter. Check the engine oil, transmission oil and coolant levels before starting the engine (page 21, 23, 24). Cold Engine Starting: 1. Turn the fuel valve ON. 2. Shift the transmission into neutral. 3. If the temperature is 35°C (95°F) or below, pull the choke knob fully out. 4. If the temperature is below 0°C (32°F), open the throttle two or three times. (The engine requires a richer mixture for starting in cold weather. When the throttle is so opened, the accelerator pump will feed extra fuel to the cylinder, thereby facilitating starting in cold weather.) 5. With the throttle closed, operate the kickstarter starting from the top of the kickstarter stroke, kick through to the bottom with a rapid, continuous motion. (Do not open the throttle, As the carburetor is equipped with an accelerator pump, excessive fuel will be charged into the engine, and the spark plug will be fouled if the throttle is opened and closed repeatedly. Excessive fuel in the engine makes kick- starting difficult.) 6. About a minute after the engine starts, push the choke knob back all the way to fully OFF. If idling is unstable, open the throttle slightly. (1) FUEL FILL CAP (2) BREATHER TUBE WARNING (1) FUEL VALVE (2) CHOKE KNOB Warm Engine Starting: 1. Turn the fuel valve ON. 2. Shift the transmission into neutral. 3. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine. (Do not open the throttle.) 4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine. (Do not open the throttle.) 3. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever. Starting the engine excessively charged with fuel by throttle blipping or other reasons: 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. With the throttle fully opened, repeat kickstarter operation approximately 10 times very slowly to discharge excessive fuel from the engine. 3. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine (Do not open the throttle.) 4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever. Stopping The Engine 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. Turn the fuel valve OFF. 3. Lightly open the throttle 2 – 3 times, and then close it. 4. Depress and hold the engine stop button until the engine stops completely. NOTE: • Failure to close the fuel valve may cause the carburetor to overflow. (1) THROTTLE GRIP (2) ENGINE STOP BUTTON Break-In Procedure Help assure your CRF’s future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you ride during the first operating day or 15 miles (25 km). During this period, avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration. This same procedure should be followed each time when: • Piston is replaced • Rings are replaced • Cylinder is replaced • Crankshaft or crank bearing are replaced

Incoming search terms:

Sherco Engine Engine Removal and Case Splitting Manual

0

Filed Under (Sherco) by admin on 20-04-2011

download
Engine Removal and Case Splitting Preparation 1. Wash the bike and engine thoroughly. 2. Drain transmission oil by removing drain bolt and copper washer with 5mm Allen. 3. Drain coolant by removing 3 bolts of water pump cover and lifting off engine side case.4. Remove: a. rear fender- two bolts plus one long with washer using 4mm Allen b. fuel tank hose from petcock c. fuel tank- one short bolt and washer using 4mm Allen d. chain master link and chain from front sprocket e. kick starter- one large button head bolt and washer f. rear brake- one bolt/washer using 13mm wrench g. rear brake master cylinder- 2 button head bolts h. gear shifter- one bolt i. flywheel cover – 3 bolts j. clutch slave cylinder- two button head bolts using 4mm Allen k. clutch actuating rod by pulling it out of the case l. airbox three 4mm Allen bolts and loosening Phillips head carb hose clamp m. carburetor cap/slide assembly n. carburetor by loosening Phillips head manifold hose clamp o. spark plug cap p. spark plug q. header pipe 2 bolts into cylinder head r. silencer- 3 bolts (one with washer and nut using 10mm wrench) s. cylinder head coolant hose clamp and hose t. rear shock upper bolt u. radiator plastic cover bolt, then lever up the radiator with screwdriver until the radiator “legs” pop out of frame retaining holes 5. Remove flywheel using flywheel puller tool, taking care not to lose the small Woodruff
key by placing it inside of the magnetic flywheel for safe storage. 6. Remove ignition (3 bolts) and slide rubber grommet and ignition wiring assembly out of the case and out of the way, taking special note of the ignition timing marks. 7. Remove front sprocket and 2 retaining circlips. 8. Remove clutch side case and its 10 bolts using 5mm Allen, being careful not to lose to lose the 2 aluminum alignment pins (dowel pins). Insert the dowel pins into their holes within the Right Crankcase

Incoming search terms:

HARLEY DAVIDSON V-Series California Engine Owner's Manual

0

Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-11-2010

download
During Break-In At 50 Miles (80 Kilometers): 1- Change engine oil and filter. 2- Inspect for fuel and oil leaks. 3- Inspect air cleaner element and service as required. 4- Check tightness of exterior fasteners, except head bolts. Engine Maintenance at 500 Miles (800 Kilometers): 1- Change engine oil and filter. 2- Inspect for fuel and oil leaks. 3- Inspect air cleaner element and service as required. 4- Check tightness of exterior fasteners, except head bolts. 5- Check operation of enrichment device and throttle controls. 6- Check engine idle speed. 7- Check tightness of engine mounts. Regular Service Intervals Regular lubrication and maintenance will help keep your new S&S engine operating at peak performance. The following table presents the required service schedule for normal operating conditions. Failure to complete the required engine maintenance can result in engine damage and an increase in emissions. Please refer to the motorcycle owner’s manual for any additional required chassis maintenance. Engine Service Intervals Item Interval Engine Oil & Filter Change at 50, 500, 2,500 miles (80, 800, 4,000 kilometers), every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers) thereafter1 Air Cleaner Element Inspect at 50 and 500 miles (80 and 800 kilometers), every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers) thereafter2 Tappet Oil Screen Inspect every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers). Replace every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers). Petcock, Lines, & Fittings, Vacuum Lines Inspect at 50 and 500 miles (80 and 800 kilometers), every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers) thereafter. Fuel Tank Filter Screen & In-Line Fuel Filter (If used) Inspect every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers). Engine Idle Speed Adjust as required. Operation of Throttle & Enrichment Device ControlsInspect at 500 miles (800 kilometers) and every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers) thereafter. Spark Plugs Inspect every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers). Replace every 10,000 miles (16,000 kilometers) or as needed. Ignition Timing Inspect every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers). Engine Mounts Inspect at 500 miles (800 kilometers) and every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers) thereafter. External Fasteners Except Engine Head Bolts Re-torque at 500 miles (800 kilometers) and every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers) thereafter. 1- S&S recommends that petroleum-based oil not specifically formulated for motorcycles should be changed every 1,000 miles (1,600 kilometers) after the break-in period. 2- Replace more frequently if required or if engine is operated in a dusty environment.

Incoming search terms:

Yamaha Road Star Engine Guard Installation Manual

0

Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 07-11-2010

download
1. Protect the rear portion of the front fender with a towel or other thick, soft cloth. 2. Remove the OEM engine guards if they have been installed on the motorcycle. Or, if OEM engine guards are not present, Remove the two lower engine mount bolts. These bolts are located on the inside of the right and left frame rails, and will be replaced with the longer 10mm bolts included with your new engine guard. 3. Position the engine guard so that the lower brackets point towards the rear of the motorcycle, and slide the engine guard into the space between the front wheel and the frame. 4. Raise the guard until the upper V” mount is located between the frame rails. Note: Your new Barons engine guard is equipped with a unique upper V” mount clamp. This clamp becomes a cradle for the upper frame supports when it is inserted between the frame rails. 5. Rotate the engine guard until the lower mounting brackets are aligned with the lower engine mount holes. Due to production line tolerances in both the motorcycle and the engine guard, the mounting brackets may be too wide or too narrow for the frame. If this is the case, remove the guard from the motorcycle. Place the guard on a flat, firm surface. Insert a towel or other protective material between the guard and the surface. Using a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer, tap the lower brackets until they are correctly spaced. 6. Insert the new 10mm bolts and washers, and finger tighten only. 7. Tighten each 3/8″ bolt in the upper clamp evenly by using a 9/16″ socket or a wrench. Snug down each bolt until it draws the front of the upper clamp into contact with the upper frame supports, then adjust these bolts accordingly to achieve equal spacing between each floorboard and the lower engine guard rail. 8. Tighten the jam nuts against the washers to lock each bolt in place. CAUTION! It is critical that you do not over-tighten these bolts. Tighten all remaining nuts and bolts securely. If necessary, slightly loosen rear brake line banjo bolt and rotate banjo fitting for clearance with engine guard. Tighten banjo bolt and check brake for proper operation. You must re-tighten all four of the engine guard mounting bolts after 100 miles of riding! Care & Cleaning: Engine guards take the full brunt of the worst of what the weather in your area has to offer, making it critical that proper and complete cleaning take place on a weekly basis, or corrosion will occur which is not covered by warranty! Proper cleaning procedure would be to use a product like Simple Green, LOC, Salt-Away or similar. Mix a strong batch and apply it liberally with a soft towel or soft nylon brush to the entire

Incoming search terms:

POLINI MINICROSS AND MlNlMOTARD OWNER'S AND MAINTENANCE MANUAL

0

Filed Under (Polini) by admin on 22-11-2010

download
Fit the stand using the M8x18 screw to fasten it and the spring provided (photo 1 6). A DANGER! We suggest you to remove the stand during competitions as it could be dangerous and bruising. 18- Fit the gear lever l~hoto 171. 19- Fill the fuel tank (See section 4.13). 20- Check the engine oil level (See section 4.3). INTRODUCTION Always ensure that the motorcycle has been efficiently serviced and check it over before riding it. Take your motorcycle to an authorised POIJNI MOTOR1 dealer for all maior servicing and repair. Because of the manufacturer’s policy OF continuous development, and because of constant innovations in technology, your motorcycle may differ in some details from that described in the illustrations and text in this manual. Original POLlNl MOTOR1 spare parts are always made from the same materials and in the same way as the parts originally fitted to your minicross motorcycle. Always insist on original POIJNI MOTOR1 spore parts. Their use ensures a longer life and improved efficiency for your motorcycle. 2. STARTING THE ENGINE FOR THE FIRST TIME Always check over your motorcycle thoroughly before starting the engine. To start the engine for the first time, as instructed below. 1 – Turn the fuel tap located under the fuel tank to #ON” position (photo 18) Run your new motorcycle in as instructed How to ensure that the engine and transmission bed in correctly and to ensure continuous reliability in Future. A CAUTION! The first time yw ride your new motorcycle, ride for about two hours at low engine speeds to ensure that it runs in correctly. Also respect the following precautions. 2- Once the engine starts, leave it idle until it warms up to normal temperature. If you switch the engine off for a short time, wait for it to cool down completely before you re-start it. – 3- During the running in period, always ride at constant 2- Before starting the engine put the gear in neutral position speeds. AVOID RAPID ACCELERATION. (photo 19, gear N). 4- Even when riding at low engine speeds, avoid extended A WARNING! IF the gear position is not neutral the bike could move when started. 3- If the engine is cold, lift the choke lever on the carburettor (photo 20). A WARNING! Lower the starter lever again as won as the engine starts to warm up. 4- Leove the throttle closed. Pivot the kick-start lever out wards and push energetically downwards with your foot to start the engine. 5- Return the kick-start lever to its rest position. Leave the engine idle for a few minutes to warm it up. A WARNING! Check that the engine stop button stops the engine effectively before yw begin riding the motorcycle. difficult sections of road or Lck that could cause the engine to become very hot. 5- Once you have run in your motorcycle following all these instructions, take it to a Polini Motori dealer for its post- running-in service. Apart from a change of spark plug and engine oil, this service also includes the disassembly

Incoming search terms:

HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME BILLET LIFTER-COVER KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

0

Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-02-2011

download
Installation with Stock Pushrods Refer to the service manual for your motorcycle model. Installation with Adjustable Pushrods Lifter-Cover Removal Installing or removing the pushrods with the valve train loaded can result in engine damage. On the cylinder being serviced, always set the lifters to the base circle on the cam before servicing pushrods, lifters, rocker arms, and valves. 1. Set the lifters of the rear cylinder to their lowest point, or base circle, on the cam. Refer to Setting the Lifters to the Base Circle in this instruction sheet. 2. See Figure 1. Insert a screwdriver into the slot on the side of the spring-cap retainer on the pushrod cover. 3. Press the spring-cap and retainer down while pulling outward to remove the spring-cap retainer. 4. See Figure 2. Lift the lower pushrod cover to reveal the lower third of the pushrod. 5. If the engine has stock pushrods installed and you are installing adjustable pushrods with this lifter-cover installation, go to step 6. If the engine already has adjustable pushrods installed and you are installing adjustable pushrods with this lifter-cover installation, go to step 7 6. Use a bolt cutter or similar tool to cut the stock pushrod. Avoid cutting the pushrods with a saw, grinder, or other method that may allow metal debris into the engine. Go to step 8. 7. Loosen the jam nut on each adjustable pushrod and resize each rod to its shortest length. 8. Remove the pushrod covers and pushrods from the engine. 9. Remove the O-rings from the seats in the engine at the top and bottom of the pushrod cover. 10. Remove the four screws fastening the lifter cover to the engine to remove the cover and gasket. 11. Remove old lifter-cover gasket material from the engine, taking care not to allow material to fall into the engine. Continue to Lifter-Cover Installation in this I-Sheet. Lifter-Cover Installation 1. See Figure 3. Verify that the lifter anti-rotation pin is in position. Installing or removing the pushrods with the valve train loaded can result in engine damage. On the cylinder being serviced, always set the lifters to the base circle on the cam before servicing pushrods, lifters, rocker arms, and valves. 2. Verify that the cylinder lifters are set to their lowest point, or base circle, on the cam. Refer to Setting the Lifters to the Base Circle in this instruction sheet. 3. Fasten the new lifter-cover gasket and chrome billet lifter cover to the engine using the chrome screws from this kit. In a cross pattern, torque the lifter-cover screws to 90 – 120 in-lbs (10.2 – 13.6 Nm). 4. See Figure 4. Loosen the jam nut on all of the pushrods and adjust the pushrods to their shortest length. NOTE See Figures 4 and 5. Install the narrow-band pushrods in the cylinder-intake location. Install the wide-band pushrods in the cylinder-exhaust location. 5. Assemble the O-rings (purchased separately) and pushrod covers. 6. Install the pushrods with the pushrod covers. The adjustment-end of the pushrod must be on the lifter

Incoming search terms:

2007 Corolla & Matrix 1ZZ-FE ENGINE NO START CONDITION REPAIR

0

Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 01-11-2011

download
Refer to TIS, 2007 model year Corolla or Matrix Repair Manual: Engine Hybrid System – Engine Control – “1ZZ-FE Engine Control System: ECM: Removal” Engine Hybrid System – Engine Control – “1ZZ-FE Engine Control System: ECM: Installation” 2. Register the VIN into the replacement ECM (PCM). Refer to TIS, 2007 model year Corolla or Matrix Repair Manual: Engine Hybrid System – Engine Control – “1ZZ-FE Engine Control System: SFI System: Registration Some 2007 model year Corolla and Matrix vehicles equipped with a 1ZZ-FE engine may exhibit a “no start” condition. Improvements have been made to the Engine Control Module (ECM) (SAE term: Powertrain Control Module/PCM) manufacturing process to reduce the possibility of this condition occurring. Please use the following procedure to repair the vehicle

Incoming search terms:

Incoming search terms: