1982 kawasaki 750 specter ballast resistor

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ODYSSEY DRYCELL MOTORCYCLE BATTERY COMPATIBILITY

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 30-10-2010

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2008-2009 KAWASAKI TERYX HEADLAMPS HIDTERYX HID KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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a. Remove rubber boot from the back of the headlamp housing assembly. b. Push down on metal latch and pull away from lip to release halogen bulb. Pull out halogen bulb. c. Insert HID bulb, line up bulb to fit into the bulb holder, lower latch to lock bulb in place. d. Replace Rubber boot on the back headlamp assembly. (Make sure to pull wires through the center of the rubber boot first before you start to pull down boot on the back of the headlamp assembly.) e. Make sure that the wiring, coming from the HID bulb, clears the black plastic housing that encases the headlamp assembly so connection from the bulb to the ballast is possible. If installed correctly there is no need for drilling or modifications of any type. 2. Ballast a. Mount ballast in location of your choice – recommended near the headlight. 3. Wiring Note: DO NOT modify the wiring that runs from the HID bulb to the ballast. It will cause the system to work improperly. It will void the warranty . a. Once ballast is installed connect corresponding wires from HID bulb to corresponding male / female plugs on ballast. b. To connect wiring from ballast to Teryx primary system i. Find wire extension with white triangular head with black, yellow & green wires at opposite end ii. Connect black off extension to black wire coming off ballast iii. Connect Yellow / Green wire to red wire coming off ballast iv. Connect triangular head to corresponding plug on Teryx Factory Wiring End

1982 Kawasaki KZ550C Electric Motorcycle Conversion Notes

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 03-12-2010

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Starting point: • 1982 Kawasaki KZ550C that I found in an alley near my house. Frame rust sanded and repainted. • Rebuilt front suspension ($25 for front fork oil seals, 1 weekend for repair) • Need-to-be-rebuilt front brake caliper • Need-to-be-replaced front master brake cylinder (expected ~$80) • Need-to-be-refurbished electrical wiring system and 12V battery • Working rear brake • Flat rear tire, patched with fix-a-flat (temporary repair), 77″ circumference. • In-tact 530 size 62″ chain with 36 tooth driven sprocket • Miscellaneous spare parts from 1978 Kawasaki KZ450, most of which fit on the 1982 frame, including an ignition switch and key. I started with a chassis I found in an alley near my house. It was in rough shape and needed some refurbishment before I could start the conversion. Most of refurbishment steps are listed above in bullets. In addition to the repainting and repair of important aspects of the bike, I also needed to remove the IC engine components and the grease caked on from years of IC use. The Clymer manual for this bike was helpful in this process, which was about $18 from [13]. Steps for removing the engine were as follows. I removed the seat and the gas tank. I removed the electrical system wiring and 12V battery holder. I then removed the carburetors (which took a lot of pushing and shoving) and air filter box. I then removed the drive socket cover and removed the drive socket from the engine drive shaft. This allowed me to slip the chain off of the drive socket after loosening the rear wheel to put slack into the chain. I slipped the chain off and let it rest on the rear wheel swing arm and drained the old motor oil. I then removed all of the engine mounting bolts and pushed the entire engine out of the right side of the bike. This took a lot of effort but it is possible to remove the engine without removing the piston heads as recommended in the Clymer manual. The engine weights about 60-70 lbs, so it was possible to handle with one person. I suggest using a flat car jack to help with engine removal. I will eventually sell the IC parts through Ebay

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Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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KAWASAKI KVF 750 FENDER PROTECTOR Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Step 1 : Step 2 : Note: ATVenture Components Inc 23FENDER PROTECTOR KAWASAKI KVF 750 2008-2010 166-431 Assemble all parts together as shown use floor slots and bike rack to position foot rest and tighten all hardware. only right side shown, hardware is doubled in description list. in drawing. 1BOLT HEX. 1 1/2″ x 5/16″2 2BOLT HEX. 3/4″ x 5/16″ 2 3LOCK WASHER 5/16″ 2 4FLAT WASHER 5/16″ 4 5LOCK NUT 5/16″ 2 6U BOLT 1/4″ x 1 3/4″ 2 7LOCK NUT 1/4″ 4 8LOCK WASHER 1/4″ 4 9FLAT WASHER 1/4″ 8 10 CS-M6-30 4 1 4 5 7 9 6 10 9 4 5 2 REAR BIKE RACK (C) FENDER PROTECTOR BAR (A) LOW ATTACHMENT (B)FLOOR SLOTS NOTE: Lower attachment (A) may vary in shape and size according to ATV model.To install adjust lower attachment in floor slots (B) that give your fender protector bar (c) approximately 1 1 2 inch (3.81 cm) distance

KAWASAKI TERYX 750 CLUTCH KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove both seats from the vehicle. Next, remove the passenger side lower body panel. There is a mixture of Philips head screws and also plastic push pin fasteners that have to be removed. 2. With the side panel off, the next item to remove is the plastic housing over the engine. These are all “push in” style plastic clips that hold it in place. Once all the pins are out, you can slide the housing off and set it aside. 3. Now the lower long plastic panel under the seat has to be removed (again mainly plastic push clips to remove) . Once they are all out, carefully remove and set aside. 4. Next, remove the fuel tank. Remove the two lines on the top of the tank. There are two straps that hold the tank in place. Remove the bolt from each strap, remove the straps, and lift the fuel tank out. 5. Now the bracket that holds the fuel pump on has to be removed. There are two bolts here to take out. Once this is done, mark the two wires to the coil and disconnect them. Set the bracket out of the way . 6. Next, the clutch cover bolts can be removed and the norkel on the housing can be loosened and i Teryx 750 Clutch Kit Instructions 5/1/09 removed. Take the clutch cove off and set out of the way. 7. With the clutch visible, you can remove the secondary clutch with a large impact wrench and metric socket . 8. Remove the bolt from the primary clutch. This is a left hand thread on the bolt. Next you will need a Kawasaki drive clutch puller (part #352251) to pop the clutch loose. If you do not have a puller, the spring cap can be removed on the vehicle and the weights can be changed out in there as well. 9. With the clutches sitting on the bench, remove the bolts that hold on the spring cover. Remove the stock spring and the stock weights 10. After reading the directions on the new weights, add the correct amount of weight to each clutch weight and install them in the clutch. Place the weight to the left side in the clutch pocket and then install the aluminum spacer. Repeat this process for the other three weights. 11. Install the new spring supplied in the kit and install the spring cover, paying close attention to the arrows on the cover. 12. Next, remove the stock spring from the secondary. It is recommended that you use the TEAM Compression tool (part # 930001) for this. With the clutch on the compression tool, compress the spring retainer down far enough to remove the snap ring with the needle-nose pliers . Slowly back off the t-handle and remove the tool.

Kawasaki Exhausts – ZX-6 ZX-10 Zx-14 Exhaust – Slip-ons INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14.. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust. We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines. Bolt-On style bolts to the O. E. M. mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News http://northdenvernews.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo

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Kawasaki Teryx 750 Cab Enclosure Kit Installation And Removal Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Remove seats and set aside for better access to vehicle interior. Refer to Owner’s Manual for instructions. ii) Remove lower foot guardrails and set shoulder screws aside for later use. Loosen 19mm bolts ( A in Fig.1) until 3/16″ gap can be achieved. iii) Loosely fasten rubber stops ( B in Fig.1) to Hinge Mounting Brackets using 6mm bolts. Mount brackets to vehicle as shown in Fig.1 and hand tighten 19mm bolts. iv) Align lower bracket hole to existing foot guard mounting hole and fasten with OEM shoulder screw ( C in Fig.1). NOTE : Apply pressure to screwdriver in order catch threads on nuts. v) Adjust upper edge of brackets with mallet to make bracket edge flush to roll bar edge (Fig.2). Tighten 19mm bolts. Adjust and tighten rubber mounts. FLUSH A B Fig.2 Fig.1 2. Rear Bracketery i) Remove 14mm bolts from lower mounting points on rear crossbar. Install Striker Mounting Brackets as shown (Fig.3). Reinstall bolts and hand tighten only . Attach Striker Plates using (4) ¼-20 x 3/8″ screws, keep loose for later adjustment. ii) Remove 14mm bolts from upper crossbar and install Upper Rear Panel Brackets as shown (Fig.4). Tighten 14mm bolts back into place. 3. Panel Installation i) Install low density foam to interior of panels as shown (Fig.5.) Approx. (8) 3″ long strip are required on each side panel. Install low density foam to entire door / panel interface. ii) Mount side panels to roll cage and temporarily clamp to top roll bar. Loosely insert remaining (2) shoulder screws to each foot well. Adjust each panel to obtain proper alignment at front, top and lower rear. iii) Ensure hinge mounting bracket edges are flush with inside door frame and transfer hinge bolt hole locations onto plastic panels. Remove panels and drill holes using ¼” bit. Re-install panels and shoulder screws onto vehicle. iv) Mount hinges as shown (Fig.6) with (8) ¼-20 x 5/8″ Lg. Flat Head screws. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN

KAWASAKI VULCAN 700/750 CRUZER EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 28-12-2010

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REMOVING THE STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Place the bike on the center stand. 2. Remove the three clamps attaching the heat shield to the left hand head pipe and set the heat shield aside. 3. Remove the two heat shield clamps attaching the heat shield to the right hand head pipe and set the heat shield aside. 4. Loosen the pinch clamps where the mufflers slip onto the muffler box (the black box in front of the rear tire). Remove the bolt attaching the mufflers to the footrest. 5. Remove the left and right hand mufflers and set them aside. 6. Remove the right hand foot rest and brake pedal assembly from the frame. 7. Loosen the pinch clamps where the head pipes slip into the muffler box. 8. Remove the two nuts that secure the right head pipe to the cylinder head. Repeat this step on the left head pipe and save the nuts for reuse. 9. Remove the left and right hand head pipes. Remove the header flange from each head pipe and save the two flanges for reuse. Set the head pipes aside. 10. Remove the two bolts (one on each side) that mount the muffler box to the frame. Lower the muffler box down and set it aside. INSTALLING YOUR NEW VANCE & HINES EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Remove the two bolts from the charcoal canister mount, the canister is located in front of the rear tire. Using the two 6mm x 16mm bolts (supplied) install the centerstand stop bracket, (stamped 205), by aligning the holes in the bracket with the holes in the canister mount. Be sure the bend closest to the holes in the bracket angles towards the rear of the motorcycle and the tang is pointed to the left hand side. Tighten the two 6mm bolts at this time. 2. Unscrew all of the hose clamps (supplied) until they are completely loose. Feed the tail end of the hose clamp into the clips on the inside of both heat shields. Place the front head pipe into the heat shield, wrap the hose clamp around the head pipe and give the screw three to four turns. Repeat this step with the rear heat shield. Note : The screw end of the hose clamp should be accessible, but not visible when pipe is mounted on the bike. Leave them loose at this time. 3. Install a three hole mounting bracket to each muffler as shown in figure 1. Slide one dog bone shaped nut plate under the bracket that is welded to the backside of each muffler. Attach the mounting bracket using two of the 5/16″ flange head bolts (supplied), leave them loose at this time. Note : The muffler bracket stamped #284 is for the right hand muffler, bracket #285 is for the left hand muffler. 4. Install the rear exhaust assembly, with the heat shield attached, to the rear cylinder using the stock flanges and nuts. Install the stock muffler mounting bolts through the rear footrest brackets, the supplied muffler brackets, and finger tighten the nuts. Leave them loose at this time. 5. Repeat step #4 with the front head pipe

Kawasaki Brute Force 750 MudSlinger Slip-On with S-Bend Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Remove the stock muffler and rear cylinder head pipe as described in your owner’s manual. Retain the stock fasteners for MudSlinger installation. (Do not remove the front cylinder head pipe; this will be used with your new system). 2) Remove stock Heat Shield and retain for MudSlinger installation. 3) Remove and inspect the rear cylinder exhaust gasket. Retain or replace for MudSlinger installation. MUDSLINGER INSTALLATION: 1) Slide the 1 ¾ T-bolt clamp over the supplied Y pipe and attach pipe to MudSlinger muffler. (DO NOT TIGHTEN) 2) Slide the 1 ½ T-bolt clamp over the front cylinder head pipe. 3) Install the new Y pipe and muffler using the stock fasteners. Align the muffler with the rear mount point on the frame. (DO NOT TIGHTEN). 4) Tighten all clamps and fasteners starting with the two flange nuts at the exhaust port and working back to the muffler. 5) Re-install the stock heat shield. (NOTE: only 2 fasteners will be used to install the heat shield to the new system. Make sure to use medium strength Loctite on the 2 fasteners when installing). 6) Start and check for leaks then re-install all body panels. IMPORTANT: After a short test ride, check and retighten all fasteners as necessary. CLEANING & MAINTENANCE The Mudslinger system is manufactured from stainless steel and aluminum. Stainless steel is used for its high strength at high temperatures and resistance to corrosion. The aluminum is used for it’s weight and strength. Before you run your new SuperTrapp MudSlinger for the first time, clean all grease, fingerprints, and dirt from the entire system. (A good glass cleaner works well.) A clean, grease-free surface will allow even coloration. Over time, the MudSlinger will begin to take on a gold tint. The coloration will be relatively even throughout the entire system. The hotter you get the system, the darker it will become. Due to the unique properties of these materials, the care of the MudSlinger is minimal. The following instructions should be followed to maintain your MudSlinger muffler

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