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Victory Freedom Engines Installation Instructions for S&S Air Cleaner Kit

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1-Locate and remove the Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IATS) from the stock Polaris Victory air box. Locate the new position for the IATS on the bottom of the S&S air cleaner. Push the IATS in the lower air cleaner cover and turn1⁄ 4 turnin either direction, make sure you feel it lock into place. Inspect from the inside of the air cleaner to ensure that the barbs are locked into place. See Picture 1. 2-Using the stock Polaris Victory air box gasket (PN 5811908) and S&S supplied (Qty 4) M6 fasteners, assemble the lower air cleaner cover to the throttle body using 243 Blue Loctite®on the treads. Torque the M6 fasteners to 72-96 inch pounds. 3-Position the S&S pre-formed air filter onto the lower air cleaner cover ensuring that it fits into the machined groove. 4-Install the top air cleaner cover on top of the filter ensuring that it fits into the machined groove. 5-Make surethat the filter is situated in the machined grooves on both the top and bottom air cleaner covers. 6-Using 243 Blue Loctite on the threads of the S&S supplied (Qty 3) M6 fasteners tighten down top air cleaner cover evenly until seated. Finish torque the fasteners to 72-96 inch pounds. Now you’re ready for breather hose and barometric pressure hose routing. 7-Locate the S&S supplied 3⁄ 16 “reinforced hose and clamps. Push one end of the hose on the 3⁄ 16 “brass barb in the bottom air cleaner cover and slide clamp up around the end of the hose. The other end of the hose is for the Barometric Pressure Sensor (MAP). Route the hose towardthe back of the engine over the top of the rear rocker cover. 8-Remove the MAP sensor from the stock Polaris Victory air box. Remove the orange rubber gasket from the MAP sensor. Slide the S&S supplied clamp over the 3⁄ 16 “rubber hose that leads to the air cleaner. Push the barbed end of the MAP sensor into the 3⁄ 16 ” rubber hose and slide clamp up to the end of the hose around the barb. A small amount of lubricant may be applied to the barb on the MAP sensor to make installation easier. 2 S&S Air Cleaner Assembly 41-0021 (Calibration cardnot shown) Picture 1 CAUTION WARNING WARNING Plastic barb locked in recess.
9-Assemble and install breather hose as follows: A-Cut the stock Victory®hose on the straight section just behind the 90 degree bend as shown in Picture 2 . B-Slide an S&S supplied 1⁄ 2 “hose clamp over the modified stock breather hose. C-Install the S&S straight barb in Victory breather hose and position a hose clamp around hose end. D-Slide the 90-degree end of breather hose over the brass barb on the air cleaner cover and slide hose clamp in place. E-Position straight end of the S&S breather hose over the 1⁄ 2 “barb to connect to the Victory hose. Slide clamp over connection. F- See Pictures 3 and 4 for breather hose and barometric pressuresensor hose installation positions. NOTE: S&S breather hose can be cut for best fit

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Air Shock Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

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Air HoseInstallation. Choose the most convenient loca- tiononyour motorcycle for the air fill valve. Drilla 5/16″hole and install the air fill valve as shown in Figure 3orsecure air fill valve to frame tube. 2. Keep hose ends clean during installation because dirt can cause air leaks. 3. Install hose connector, tube clamp and two O-rings onto one end of the air hose (See Figures4&5) Apply rubber lubricant (soap solution, not oil) to the O-rings to ease installation on the air hose& into the shock absorber inlet. Plastic connector should just bottom on fitting. Do not overtighten! The function of the nut is to hold everything together in place, the O- rings do the sealing. Fin- gertightenonly (10 in/lb maximum). 4. After routing the air hose, trim the length to fit air fill valve. Install hose connector, tube clamp, and twoO-rings onto end of hose (See figures 4&5). Lubricate as above and assemble to air fill valve. Use the same procedure formating hose. Important —leaveasmall amount of slack in hose near shock absorber to allow for the slight move- mentofthe shock. Caution! Do not install hose near ex- haustsystem, battery or any other sharp edges or seat movement. Keep hoses clear of moving parts such as wheels or suspension components. Do not allow hoses to have excess slack and sag below the motorcycle. The hoses could catch on road surfaces or debris and could be damaged while the motorcycle is in motion. 5. If necessary the air hose can be secured along the motorcycle’swiringharness with tie-wraps. 6. Testing: Inflate system to 50 psi. Apply soapy water solution to all connections and check for air leaks. If there are any leaks, disconnect the suspected fitting and check for dirt or damage to the air line or the O-rings. Remove any dirt or foreign matter, re-lubricate the O-rings and reinstall. If unable to locate the leak, remove rubber boot from shocks and submerge pressurized components under water (in- cludingT-Valve) and check for leaks. If you cannot solve the air leak problem, please contact our technical staff for assistance

HARLEY-DAVIDSON SOFTAIL MODELS STEALTH AIR SHOCK MOUNTING

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 16-12-2010

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INSTALLATION 1. Remove the seat, inner fender, and ignition coil cover. Removing the rear wheel assembly is recommended for ease of installation, but not absolutely necessary. Remove the nut cup and outer grommet on each of the Works shocks. If you intend to leave the ride height at stock height for road riding, position the inner nut cup SHOC KS SHOC KS WORKS PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS, INC. 21045 Osborne St., Canoga Park, CA 91304 818.701.1010 fax 818.701.9043 STEALTH AIR SHOCK MOUNTING FOR HARLEY-DAVIDSON SOFTAIL MODELS 2000-ON #HDAIR-00 – 02/15/2006 WARNING! THESE SHOCKS MUST ONLY BE USED WITH STOCK SWINGARMS AND ON STOCK FRAMES WITH THE STOCK BOTTOMING BUMPERS ON THE CHASSIS TO LIMIT THE TRAVEL OF THE SHOCKS. AFTERMARKET SWINGARMS, OR MODIFIED SWINGARMS THAT DO NOT HAVE THE UPPER BRACE THAT ACTS AGAINST THE BOTTOMING BUMPERS CANNOT BE USED WITH THESE SHOCKS. INCREASING THE TRAVEL BY ELIMINATING THE BUMP STOPS OR A NON-STANDARD SWINGARM DESIGN WILL ALLOW THE TIRE TO MAKE CONTACT WITH THE FENDER OR OTHER CHASSIS COMPONENTS, AND CAN DAMAGE THE SHOCKS. 19. Lock Washers 20. Long Bolts (2) 21. Short Bolts (2) 13. Din Plug Screw 14. Din Plug Gasket 15. Cap 16. Eye Spacers (4) 17. Cotter Pins (2) 18. Switch Bracket 7. Compressor Bracket 8. Harness 9. Fuse Block 10. Din Connector 11. Solenoid 12. Hose 1. Damper Shock 2. Air Spring Shock 3. Nut Cup 4. Grommet 5. Hose 6. Compressor 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 15 16 17 14 18 19 20 21 Fig. 1–Nomenclature on the damper shock up against the ring nut. The shocks are now ready to install. 2. Place the motorcycle on a suitable frame stand allowing unrestricted access to the shocks. 3. Place a small screw jack under the swing arm to support the weight as well as allow you to position the swing arm correctly to line up the shock mounting bolts. Remove stock shocks. 4. Install the left side (damping) shock with the stock mounting bolt. Make sure that the bolt threads and threaded portions of the frame are free of oil and grease. Grease the shoulders of the bolts and use thread lock compounds on the threads. Discard the stock shock washers on both shocks. Do not use any washers- -including the stock washers on these bolts. Use only the spacers included. The 3/16-inch wide spacers are used on each side of the shock eye. Do not “double-up” the spacers together on either side of the shock eye, as this will cause misalignment of the shocks which can lead to premature wear or damage to the shocks. 5. Put the supplied spacers on each side of the eye. The shoulder of the bolt must protrude a small amount through the shock eyes in order to allow the shock to pivot freely. This is extremely important. With the shocks fully tightened, the spacers should be free to rotate with finger pressure. If the washer is used or a non-stock bolt is used, the bolts will work loose or break because the shocks are in a bind.

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Triumph Bonneville America And Speedmaster The Freak Installation Instructions and Parts List

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs

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Ultima Billet Rear Shocks Installation Instruction Sheet

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Unloading the rear suspension Use a jack under a flat part of the motorcycle and lift until the rear tire is barely resting on the surface. This ensures that the shocks are unloaded. They are now ready for removal. Remove the old shocks Refer to the service manual specific to your motorcycle for this process. Unbolt the old shocks. Save the necessary hardware if you have not purchased new hardware. Installation Shocks should be installed with the preload adjuster on top (see Preload Adjustment). With the new shocks in hand; please go over the hardware configuration diagram (Figure 3) to decide which configuration best fits your application. Spacers are included to provide clearance between the shocks and your motorcycle (Figure 4). Typically start on which ever side the final drive is located. This side normally causes the clearance issues. Each eye and each side should be configured the same way. Make sure to use the proper hardware so that the shock- bushings fit the shock-bolts as snugly as possible. Shocks come with a 1/2″ ID bushing installed. This is needed for all applications. An optional bushing is included and should be used in addition when 3/8″ bolts are used instead of the larger 1/2″bolts. Unless new hardware was purchased, you will use the stock bolts from your old shocks to install the new shocks. Use Red Locktite (or equivalent) and use a torque wrench to tighten as follows: Models that use 1/2″ bolts: 65ft-lbs Models that use 3/8″ bolts: 30ft-lbs (Figures 1 & 2) Be sure to check clearance between the shock and the belt-guard. If there is any contact you will need to alter your spacer arrangement to accommodate this. Check tire to fender clearance as well. This clearance will be reduced when lowering shocks are used. Preload Adjustment Your new Ultima Billet Shocks are preload adjustable. Adjustment should be done once the shocks are installed. To adjust use a strap wrench and turn the top part of the shock (Figure 6) clock-wise to tighten or provide more preload (this stiffens the suspension), or counter-clockwise to loosen or subtract preload (this softens the suspension). Hand adjustments may be sufficient on models with smaller spring rates while the strap wrench will be required on the high spring rate shocks. You will see notches (Figure 6) that appear on the shock as the shock is preloaded. These should help you obtain the same preload for both sides of the motorcycle. Both shocks should be adjusted to the same level of preload.

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2009 Kawasaki ULTRA 250X/ 260X FUEL INJECTION CONTROLLERS And REGULATORS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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The R&D high performance Air Filter Kit will improve acceleration and top speed performance by increasing air flow and reducing air temperatures that enter directly into the Ultra 250X’s air plenum box area. The O.E.M. air plenum box on the Ultra 250X is a great design that will flow plenty of air. However, the air that feeds the plenum box is heated by the engine. R&D has created an easy to install “flat filter” that installs directly in place of the large center access inspection cover located directly under the main glove box. The R&D Flat Air Filter insert will allow unrestricted fresh and cool air to enter the air plenum box area which will add power you can feel and a nice high performance tone. The R&D Performance Filter Kit also features two filters, one for each of the surge and blowoff protections valves. The O.E.M. surge valve recycles compressed hot air back into the air box plenum at idle and under deceleration conditions. The R&D surge and blowoff valve filter kit removes the air recycling hoses which will keep the hot air from entering the air plenum box reducing the engines intake air temperatures. The R&D Ultra 250X Air Filter Kit offers great performance tips on how to remove the restrictive air vent hoses which will further reduce the under seat ambient air temperatures. The R&D Filter system does not remove or alter the O.E.M. plenum box in any way, therefore there are no questions to be answered regarding water ingestion

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MOUNTAIN BIKE AIR SHOCK SET-UP AND TUNING GUIDE

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 01-12-2010

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DETAILED SET-UP 2. Installing Air Pressure – Remove the air cap from the Schrader valve on the end of the shock body. Attach the pump to the Schrader valve. Some people damage their pumps by screwing them on too far. As soon as the gauge registers pressure, screw 1/2 turn more and pump to the desired level. Use the release button on the pump to reduce air pressure. The hiss you hear when unscrewing the pump is only the air from the pump and not from the shock! Likewise, when you install the pump again, you will also hear a hiss as air from the shock fills the pump and reduces the registered pressure you previously installed. All perfectly normal when pressurizing the shock! After removing the pump, be sure to reinstall the Schrader valve cap. If the shock does not dampen properly after pressurizing, the air pressure may have been lost during pump removal as a result of a worn pump fitting o-ring that needs replacement. Do not ride the bike until the shock is properly pressurized. 3. Main Air Spring Pressure Adjustments – Air Spring adjustments are made by inflating or deflating the main air spring chamber. Since your IFP air pressure adjustment (outlined above) also affects your starting spring force, you should always adjust your IFP pressure before adjusting the main air spring pressure. You can refer to the online Quick Start guide at: www.progressivesuspension.com/literature.html for accurate main air spring pressure and sag settings matched to your bike model and body

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HARLEY DAVIDSON TOURING SUSPENSION AIR PUMP KIT OPERATION/ INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-03-2011

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OPERATION 1. Remove cap from air suspension air valve and connect pump by threading the air valve adapter (1) on the pump as shown in Figure 1. When adapter is threaded properly, the current air pressure in the system will be indicated on the gauge of the pump. Do not exceed maximum air pressure for rear suspension. Air components fill rapidly. Therefore, use low air line pressure. Failure to do so may result in possible damage to components. (00165a) NOTES See the motorcycle’s Owner’s Manual or, if installed, the air suspension lowering kit’s instruction sheet for the recommended air pressures. Using pressures outside the recommended loading range will result in a reduction of available suspension travel and reduced rider comfort. 2. To increase pressure, operate the air pump handle (4) until the desired pressure is indicated on gauge (2). Use caution when bleeding air from the suspension. Moisture combined with lubricant may leak onto the rear wheel, tire and/or brake components and adversely affect traction, which could result in death or serious injury. (00084a) NOTE The pressure release button is designed to release pressure slowly. If the button is completely or rapidly depressed, no air will be released. For the best results, depress the pressure release button slowly and only partially. 3. To decrease pressure, slowly depress the pressure release button (3) on the pump until desired pressure is indicated on gauge (2)

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YAMAHA ROADLINER AND STRATOLINER LAY DOWN LICENSEPLATE/ TAIL LIGHT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the license plate. Remove the license plate holder assembly from the rear fender (three 8mm Allen bolts 5mm wrench). Remove the five 4mm Allen screws underneath the rear fender which secure the taillight/turn signal assembly to the rear fender (3mm wrench). As shown in photo #2, pull the taillight assembly out away from the fender, turn it over, place a towel or rag between the light and fender and allow it to rest on the fender. 2. Locate the supplied triangular license plate mounting block, two 8 x 20mm Allen screws with holes driiled thru and three rubber washers. Place the two Allen screws thru the upper holes in the block and the rubber washers over the screws on the backside of the block. Start the screws into the upper holes on the fender. Use one of the three screws removed earlier from the original mount in the remaining lower hole of the new block sliding the remaining rubber washer between the block and fender. Tighten all three Allen screws secure enough to compress the rubber washers (4-6 ft lbs.). 3. Locate the supplied license plate mounting plate and LED lights. Cut off the excess red and black wires at the end of the black loom or tube. Referring to photo (1) thread the wires of the LED lights thru the small holes in the mounting plate, peel the cover from the adhesive backing on the lights and press them firmly into place as shown. 4. Locate the three supplied ¼” x ½” flat head Allen screws. Hold the plate up to the mounting block installed earlier with the wires at the bottom of the plate. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the holes in the upper bolts of the block. Install the plate onto the block using the three flat head screws being sure to keep the exposed wire behind he plate as short as possible and fitting into the slot or cut out at the edge of the block. Snug the screws and again check to see tat the wires are in the slot or cut out in the block and do not become pinched as the screws are tightened. Tighten the screws securely. 5. Where the wires from the taillight go thru the fender there is a grommet, pull this grommet out from the fender. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the grommet with the other wires. Replace the grommet into the fender and remove any slack from the wires under the fender. Cut the LED wires off at 6″ past the grommet. 6. Referring to photo (2) remove 2″ of the black tubing exposing the red and black wires on the LEDs. Locate the supplied brake/tail light dual function element (a red wire at one end with a red and orange wire at the other) and wire connectors. Cut all three wires on the dual element to 3″ long. Strip the end of the single red wire on the element and both of the red wires from the LEDs then connect them using one of the blue butt connectors. Connect the two black wires from the LEDs to any one of the black wires on the tail light or signals using one of the supplied splice connectors (place both black wires into one of the holes on the connector). Using the remaining splice connectors attach the red wire from the dual element to the yellow wire on the tail light and the orange wire to the blue wire on the tail light. Turn on the ignition and check that the LEDs are working both as tail and brake lights when the brakes are applied.

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HONDA VTX1300 AIR HORN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the rider and passenger seats, left chrome side cover & original horn located at the top of the radiator. 2. Locate the supplied black horn mounting bracket and supplied smaller hose clamp. Notice the slight twist in the bracket. Using 2 adjustable wrenches or a vise and one wrench remove the twist from the bracket. Route the hose clamp thru the bracket. (As shown in photo 1A) 3. Install the bracket on to the left frame tube, (As shown in photo 1A) and tighten securely. Bolt the supplied horns to the bracket using the supplied bolt, lock washer and nut, (As shown in photo 1) and tighten securely. Install the supplied trumpet covers (As shown in photo 1B) by flexing the spring clips over the trumpets. Check that they fit securely. If not remove covers, make sure the center screw is tight and bend spring clips in towards center of covers and re-install. Using a blade screwdriver pry the two supplied hoses with the “Y” connector off of the air horns cut a new piece of hose 3 ½” long from the hose and replace the short hose on the “Y”. Re-install the “Y” hose assembly with the short hose going on the long or upper trumpet. (See photo 1C) Re-route the original horn wires. (As shown in photo 1D) 4. From the supplied wire cut 2 pieces 28″ long. Strip ¼” of insulation from both ends. Crimp 2 supplied male terminals to one end and 2 supplied female spade terminals to the other end. Plug the male ends into the original horns wires. (As shown in 1D) Attach the remaining air hose to the “Y”. Tape the hose and wires together every 6-8″ using electrical tape to make routing easier and neater. Route the wires and hose up under the fuel tank, over the cylinder heads coming out between the frame rails at the rear of the fuel tank. (See photo 2A) Locate the supplied relay and plug the 2 wires from the original horn onto terminals 85 & 86 on the relay. (See wiring diagram on back of last page of instructions) This will be the 2 outer terminals that are parallel to each other. Locate the supplied fuse, holder & wire assembly. Crimp a supplied fork terminal to one end and a supplied female spade to the other. Attach the spade terminal to one of the remaining outer relay terminals. (#30 or 87 on wiring diagram) Remove the 3 Phillips screws from the battery top cover. Remove the cover and attach the fork end of the fuse wire to the positive (+) terminal. Re-install the battery cover. 5. Cut a wire 9″ long and strip ¼” insulation from each end, crimp a fork to one end and a female spade to the other. Attach this wire to the compressors negative (-) terminal. Cut another wire 18″ long and strip both ends. Crimp a female spade to both ends. Attach this wire to the compressor positive (+) terminal. Route the air hose out under the left side cover as shown in photo (3). Hold the compressor in place against the frame tube. Note: Looking at the large end of the compressor the space between the hose fitting and the bolt mounting flange forms a “V” shape. This is where the compressor should rest against the frame. Next loop the hose around to the compressor hose fitting and trim the hose to the desired length. Attach the hose to the compressor. Secure the compressor to the frame using 2 large supplied cable ties as shown. 6. (See photo 3A) Attach the compressor negative (-) wire to the bolt on the frame (As shown in photo 3B) Route the compressor positive (+) wire along the side up to the relay and attach to the remaining outer terminal 87 or 30. Cable tie the relay in place. (As shown in photo 2B) Use several of the supplied short cable ties to secure the compressor wires to the air hose (As shown in photo 3) as wells as any other loose wire or hose.

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