2001 yamaha v star 650 carburetor adjust

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Adjusting the Pekar K68 for Dnepr or Ural

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 11-11-2010

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1. Make sure the ignition timing is correct 2. Adjust the valves as necessary to ensure proper operation 3. Run the engine to warm it up a bit 4. Adjust the float setting. To do this, remove the carburetors (leave the throttle cables attached), remove the bowl and turn the carburetor upside down (fuel will spill). The float should look like this: Adjust as necessary by bending the float support (#37 in Figure 1). Reinstall Installation and idle adjustment 1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns. * Starting using the K68′s (cold weather) 1. Verify fuel flow. Apply choke (pull 52 in Fig1). 2. Using the ticklers (13) allow fuel to enter the bowl until fuel drains from (14) 3. With the ignition off, kick 1 or 2 times 4. Turn ignition on, and as soon as engine is warmed up (maybe sooner) push choke mechanisms to open choke Idle Adjustment (engine running and warm) 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Carburetor Bowl Screw Repair and Removal After Stripping and Pilot Cap Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012

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When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.

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YAMAHA V-Star 650 BIG AIR KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 21-01-2012

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Remove fuel tank and air filter assembly per Yamaha service manual procedures. 2. Remove the air silencer box under the tank. 3. Install supplied BA-2410-00 Needle/Jet kit according to the instructions in the jet kit package being sure to use the Jets and Needle Slot setting called out for the external BAK filter assemble. 4. Reinstall the air silencer box under the tank. 5. Remove the rubber boot from the stock air box. It is glued-in from the factory, but will come loose if gently persuaded. See photo #1 Our install guides provide a basic outline on the proper installation of our products. Further tuning and/or fitment may be required. Barons bears no responsibility on installation costs associated with this product. © 2010 Barons Custom Accessories 7401 Slater Ave. Huntington Beach, CA 92647 (714)274-4065 – Ph. (714)848-0718 – Faxwww.baronscustom.comtech@baronscustom.com Page: 2 BA-2011-00/03/06/07/13/13B BIG AIR KIT – YAMAHA V-Star 650 6. Install the stock rubber boot into your new Baron air filter backing plate with the supplied glue. Squeeze glue liberally into sealing groove in stock rubber boot. See photo #2 Allow glue to set up and dry prior to mounting onto bike

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Yamaha V-Star 650 Jet Kit REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 16-01-2012

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Remove the vacuum slide from the carburetor. • Remove the OEM needle and spacer, noting the order of assembly. • Counting from the top to the bottom, install the new Baron needle clip on groove #4 of the replacement Baron adjustable needle. • Reinstall the OEM spacer and washer. • Reinstall the vacuum slide along with the diaphragm spring. • Reattach the diaphragm cover and tighten its screws. Note: Verify that the slide maintains a full range of movement! • Drain the fuel from float bowl and remove the bowl cover. • Remove the new cap head Allen screws in place of the OEM Phillips head screws. • Repeat above steps for other OEM main jet and pilot jet, and replace them with Baron’s main and pilot jets. • Thoroughly clean the inside of the float bowl prior to reinstalling it. • Reassemble the carburetor by reversing the order of previous steps. Use thecarburetor. • Locate the fuel mixture plug on each carburetor; it will either be a screw head or a brass plug. If it is a screw head, skip to step c . If you see a brass plug with a small hole in the center, proceed as follows: a. With a 5/32″ drill bit, carefully and slowly drill through the fuel mixture plug for each carburetor. CAUTION: The fuel mixture screw is located directly beneath this plug. Be prepared to stop the drill and remove the bit the instant you break through the plug. b. Insert a self-tapping sheet metal screw into the drilled hole and remove the plug. 311 #1 Industrial Way – Fallbrook, CA 92028 – USA Phone: (760) 731-1200 Fax: (760) 731-1284 E-mail: tech@baronscustom.com Website: www.baronscustom.com Included in this kit: (2) Mikuni main jets, (2) pilot jets, (2) titanium needles, (2) clips, (8) cap head Allen screws Revision 2.0 c. With air/fuel screw now accessible, use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the screw clockwise until it seats, then carefully turn it counter-clockwise 3 turns. Refer to final step for assistance in fine-tuning the setting of the air/fuel adjustment screw. • Reinstall the OEM air filter assembly. • Check all vent lines, fuel lines, and linkage for any obstructions or blockage

YAMAHA V-STAR 650 CRUZER EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 28-12-2010

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STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL 1. This Exhaust system is specifically designed for California models, before continuing be sure it is the correct system for your application. 2. Loosen clamp that connects muffler to front head pipe. 3. Remove cylinder exhaust bolts from rear head pipe that connects rear head pipe to cylinder (save for re- use). 4. Remove bolts that connect mufflers to mounting bracket. Remove complete system. Note: Assistance may be required. Page 1of 4 Y411IN Rev. 1.0 YAMAHA V-STAR 650 CRUZER EXHAUST SYSTEM, CA Model Part #31505 Tools required for installation: 1/2”, 12mm & 10mm wrenches 5mm, 6mm Allen wrenches 5/16″ nutdriver / flat blade screwdriver VANCE & HINES EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION 1. Check condition of stock exhaust gaskets. Replace if damaged or worn. 2. Install mounting bracket (stamped 370-P) in the original muffler mounting position, using two 8mm bolts (supplied)(Figure 1). 3. Mark outside surface of front and rear heat shields with location of mounting clips that are welded to the inside (Figure 2). Place each heat shield on a non abrasive surface such as a blanket or carpet. Lay each head pipe/muffler onto its respective heat shield (Figure 3). 4. Loosely install each hose clamp by feeding tail end of clamp into heat shield clip (Figure 4). Take note of clamp screw head direction (Figure 3). Screw head should be accessible when system is installed on motorcycle for adjustment purposes. Note: Do not tighten yet. 5. Install T-bolt clamp onto front muffler. Slide muffler onto front head pipe. Slide dog bone shaped nut plate (supplied) inside bracket welded to backside of front muffler. Attach muffler to mounting bracket 370-P using two 5/16″ flange bolts (supplied) engaging dog bone nut plate. Leave head pipe/muffler assembly loose at this time (Figure 4). 6. Using stock Allen bolts, carefully install rear head pipe/muffler assembly into exhaust port. (Assistance may be required). Note: Do not tighten yet. 7. Slide dog bone shaped nut plate (supplied) inside bracket welded to backside of rear muffler

Ural carburetors Installation and idle adjustment

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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Yamaha V-Star 650 Rear Lowering Kit REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 18-10-2010

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INSTALLATION PROCEDURE 1. Secure motorcycle to a bike lift and raise the motorcycle. 2. Remove stock rear shock from the motorcycle per standard Yamaha shop manual instructions. 3. Place the shaft of the shock in V” blocks and secure this in a vice or press, applying firm pressure to the V” blocks to trap the shaft so it will not turn. Unscrew the upper shock mount eyelet from the shaft. NOTE: The upper mount is a standard thread so you will rotate the mount counter-clockwise to unscrew it. 4. Next, screw the New LA Choppers Shock Mount onto shock shaft using Loctite. 5. Re-install shock spring, making sure it is locked in place with the retaining ring prior to slowly releasing the spring compressor. Allow shock spring to expand against the retaining ring and machined washer. 6. Reinstall shock onto the motorcycle per standard Yamaha shop manual instructions. WARNING: Installing a lowering kit will decrease initial ground clearance. The motorcycle will be lower to the ground and care should be taken to avoid bottoming, especially over bumps or in turns. To maintain proper balanced geometry, the front and rear of the motorcycle should be lowered equally. Failure to properly install the lowering kit and operate the motorcycle after installation may result in serious injury or death to the rider. LIMITED GUARANTY: Because we cannot control the application of our products, buyer assumes risks for any and all damage caused to him or herself or any third party by virtue of any failure of these parts. Guaranty for such parts is limited to our replacement costs thereof. This guaranty is in lieu of all other guaranties or warranties express or implied, and all other such guaranties or warranties are hereby expressly disclaimed. By installation of these parts, buyer irrevocably agrees to the foregoing

650 Yamaha V-Star InstaTrike REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 29-12-2011

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install all bolts loosely until all brackets are in place y Remove any aftermarket accessories (saddle bags, back rests, etc) before hitch installation. After installation remount accessories. NOTE: Some aftermarket accessories may not be compatible with InstaTrike. 1) Place motorcycle on a firm level surface. 2) Remove rear foot pegs and bolts 3) Attach bracket A (left) and bracket B (right) to the inside of the rear foot peg bracket and reattach rear foot pegs using new bolts provided. 4) Attach front of bracket C (left) and bracket D (right) to bottom of brackets A and B 5) Attach bracket E (left) and bracket F (right) to two rear fender attachment bolts using new bolts provided 6) Attach brackets G and H to rear of brackets E and F 7) Attach bottom of brackets G and H to hitch plate. 8) Attach rear of brackets C and D to TOP of forward hitch arms. 9) Tighten all bolts. Installation Diagram Leveling stand screw jack installation 1) Thread right side screw jack into threaded hole on bracket D 2) Push motorcycle over from left side until right screw jack is touching floor. 3) Install left side screw jack on bracket C and adjust out until motorcycle will rest upright on both screw jacks. 4) Adjust screw jacks until motorcycle is level. CAUTION – Use screw jacks to hold motorcycle upright and level ONLY. Do not lift motorcycle with screw jacks. CAUTION – Use care when installing screw jacks. Be certain that motorcycle is always in a stable balanced position

V-Star 1100 And Dragstar 1100 Modification V-Star Driving/ Passing Lights Factory Chrome Light Bar Cover Installation

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Use a rotary tool to widen the fastening area of the lower backside clips on the cover. The total width between the clips should be 4 æ inches. Trim off º inch on both inside ends of the lower backside attachment clips. Trim the clips equally. The following picture shows a modified cover. Narrow the clips on both ends to fit over the welds on the bar. The cover will not attach to the bar if the width between the clips is too narrow. If the width is too wide the cover may slide sideways on the bar. Narrow both clips equally to center the cover over the welds on the lower edge of the bar. The top of the cover is modified to allow the cover to fit over the bolts on the light bar. The top edge of the cover is filed æ inch deep and 5/8 inch wide to fit over the bolts. The back top edge is filed or ground 1/8 inch to fit over the light bar fastening bracket. Use care when filing chrome covered plastic. The following picture will help to complete this step in the modification. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. The ends of the cover are modified to allow the cover to fit over the upward curved light bar. The upper openings on the ends of the cover that fit over the bar must be filed to enlarge the area. Grinding the cover ends will allow the cover to fit and clip onto the bar. The end openings are filed or ground at an angle to match the slope of the bar. This picture shows the outer end of the cover. The ends of this cover have been modified by enlarging the area on the upper edges to fit over the upward curving light bar. The ends must be enlarged 1/8 inch on the top edge. The cover edge can be slanted upward to match the curved bar. Modify the cover ends until it fits without the outer chrome cover touching the bar. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Sometimes the modified light bar cover may touch the bottom of the headlight. Modify the cover, or adjust the bar or headlight if you notice the headlight touching the bar cover. This modification makes the V-Star motorcycle with Yamaha driving lights look better. The light bar bolts are covered and the chrome cover improves the appearance of the front of your bike. Other V-Star riders will notice how nice the front of your bike looks with the chrome light bar cover installed

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Yamaha V-Star 650 Outlaw Part Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Remove both Allen bolts that hold the muffler together (Fig. 1) . Also Loosen clamp from the front muffler to front head pipe (Fig. 2) , and remove allen bolts from rear head pipe and remove in one peace carefully (Fig. 3) . Figure 1 Figure Figure 3 2. Once the two mufflers are removed with the rear head pipe, remove bracket by removing two 8mm bolts as shown and remove bracket. (Fig 4) Figure 4 3. Remove spring from brake light switch to the brake rod located on the right side footrest. (Fig 5) Figure 5 4. Remove two bolts holding the footrest, and brake pedal (Fig. 6) . Carefully rest right side footrest on the floor or you can use a two by four to rest the footrest onto. Figure 6 5. Remove front head pipe by removing two nuts on the head pipe flange as shown in figure (Fig 7). Now your stock exhaust should be fully remove as shown in (Fig.8) Figure 7 Figure 8 6. Remove right side exhaust stud with a stud remover or double nut two 8mm nuts and remove stud. (Fig. 9 & 10) Note: We supply two 8mm x 1.25 flange nuts in the hardware kit so you can remove the stud. Figure 9 Figure 10 Assembly 7. Tape off your frame and parts of the motor before installing the Roadhouse exhaust, this will prevent any scratches on your V-Star. (Fig. 11) Figure 11 8. Mount Roadhouse muffler bracket on bike with supplied two 8mm x 1.25 x 20mm flange bolts as shown in (Fig. 12). Figure 12 9. Slide front head flange onto Roadhouse front head pipe as shown in (Fig. 13) . Once head flange is mounted on head pipe mount head pipe into port as shown in (Fig. 14) and use from hardware kit (one) 8mm x 1.25 x 25mm flange bolts and one of the stock nuts to mount on the stud (Fig. 15) . Make collar is flush with the front port and tighten flange bolt and nut.

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