2001 yz250f timing chain marks

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MOTORCYCLE ROLLER CHAIN Maintenance and Lubrication

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-11-2010

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Cleaning and Relubrication Perhaps the largest contributor to shortened chain life is inadequate lubrica- tion. All working parts of a chain should be lubricated uniformly. The use of the highest viscosity oil that allows for flow between the link plates and coats pin-bushing areas will normally provide the greatest wear resistance. Apply oil to the upper edges of link plates. This allows for the greatest access of oil to pin-bushing joints. For open drives, excess lubrication on outer chain surfaces should be removed, since it will either be thrown off during operation or serve to collect foreign materials. If foreign objects or surplus lubrication accumulates on chain surfaces to the extent of making re-lubrication of the joints impossible, the chain must be cleaned. Standard roller chains may be cleaned by washing in kerosene or any other good petroleum-based solvent. WARNING: These solvents are flammable. Agitate the chain to assure penetration of the solvent and a thorough flushing of the pin-bushing areas. Drain off excess solvent and inspect bushings and pins for wear. Replace the chain if wear is excessive or parts are fractured or missing. O-ring chains may be cleaned externallyby washing in kerosene. Do not use any other cleaning agent or the O-rings may be damaged. When cleaning O- ring chain, clean only the external areas of the chain. Do not attempt to force kerosene into the pin-bush cavity. Do not try to repair a worn-out chain by replacing individual links. The pitch of the new links will be shorter and will most likely result in chain fatigue failure and/or severe sprocket damage. For chains which are still usable, soak them in SAE 40 or 50 automotive engine oil (without additives). Flexing the chain in oil will assure greater penetration of lubricant. Inspect and clean sprockets. If sprockets are worn or damaged, they should be replaced.Installing new chain on worn out sprockets will significantly shorten the chain’s service life. WARNING: always wear eye protection when assembling or disassembling chain

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Yamaha YZ 250F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 30-12-2011

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Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the intake camshaft cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Fit the half moon shaped retainers in the grooves of the Hot Cams camshaft bearings to ensure good fit, set retainers aside for the time. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets, bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head, and pack some in the camshaft bearings. Set the exhaust cam into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. The cam chain pulls the camshaft sprockets in a counter clockwise direction and the slack of the chain must be kept on the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. The exhaust cam has two timing marks on it. When correctly installed one mark will be at the 9 o’clock position and the other mark will be at the 12 o’clock position. When correctly timed the mark at 9 o’clock will be aligned with the valve cover gasket surface. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. The intake cam has two timing marks also. One at 12 o’clock and the other at 3 o’clock. When both cams are installed correctly, the valve cover gasket surface will form a straight line through the exhaust timing mark at 9 o’clock and the intake timing mark at 3 o’clock

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Harley-Davidson CHAIN DRIVE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-04-2012

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1) Assemble & install the chain tensioner assembly over the primary chain as shown in figure 1. 2) Install the compensator sprocket with extender & spacer (numbers 5, 6, & 7, FIG 2)(#7 is not included in this kit), primary chain, chain tensioner, and clutch basket simultaneously onto the motor drive shaft & transmission main shaft. Rotate the chain drive slightly as needed to allow the splines to line-up. 3) Install the chain tensioner nut loosely on the chain tensioner bolt. 4) Install the sliding cam onto the compensator sprocket, & slide the compensating sprocket cover-assembly (#3) over the cam. 5) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “Red” thread-lock on the threads of the motor drive shaft, & install the motor nut loosely with the fingers at this time. The hex spacer (#7) and spacer (#2) as seen in fig.2 are not provided in Rivera Engineering’s chain drive kit. These components are required with some applications, and can be purchased from your local Harley-Davidson dealer. FIG 2 6) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “red” thread-lock on the threads of the transmission main-shaft and loosely install the clutch hub nut (left hand threads). 7) Place the HD “Primary Drive Locking Tool” HD-41214 on the primary chain as shown in figure XXX and tighten the motor sprocket nut to 150-165 foot-pounds. 8)Turn the locking tool 180 degrees and move it to the clutch sprocket. Tighten the clutch hub nut to 70-80 foot pounds (left- hand thread). Adjust chain tension so that the top strand has 5/8″- to-7/8″ of up and down play (cold drive train). Tighten the center bolt nut to 21-29 foot pounds of torque.

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TOYOTA NEW SEAT BELT TONGUE PLATE STOPPER SERVICE PARTS

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 10-10-2011

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installation procedures are provided to supplement the Repair Manual. MODEL YEAR Avalon 1995 – 2001 Camry 1983 – 2001 Corolla 1980 – 2001 Camry Solara 1999 – 2001 Sienna (Front Seat Belt Only) 1998 – 2001 RAV4 1997 – 2001 4Runner 1992 – 2001 Land Cruiser 1991 – 2001 Tundra 2000 – 2001 Tacoma 1997 – 2000 ECHO 2000 – 2001 Celica 1980 – 2001 Prius 2001 – 2001 Tercel 1981 – 1999 PREVIOUS PART NUMBERCURRENT PART NUMBER PART NAME N/A 73219-02010 Stopper, Tongue Plate (Black)* N/A 73219-02020 Stopper, Tongue Plate (Gray)* N/A 73219-02030 Stopper, Tongue Plate (Beige)* *Use a stopper color that is closest to the seat belt webbing color. OP CODE DESCRIPTION TIME OPN T1 T2 BD0047 Install Seat Belt Tongue Plate Stopper 0.1 73219-020#0 62 12 Applicable Warranty*: This repair is covered under the Toyota Comprehensive Warranty. This warranty is in effect for 36 months or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle’s in-service date. *Warranty application is limited to correction of a problem based upon a customer’s specific complaint

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2003 Ducati ST4s Timing Belt Adjustment

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 31-10-2010

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This instruction on cam belt adjustment starts after you remove the fairing pieces. Plan on an hour to remove these. Since you are performing your own service, buying Ducati belts may not be that expensive. There may be another belt source, but I have not confirmed this for the 996 engine of the 02-03 ST4s. Fig 1 – ST4s ready for belt adj./ repl. Fig 2 – Crank tool installed. See dwg. 1) Ensure maximum of ½ tank of gas. Fuel will leak into the charcoal canister, then onto the floor if the tank is over half full and the tank is tilted up on its hinge. So put the tank up on its hinge. 2) Remove spark plugs. Cover sparkplug wells with boots or rags. This is a great time to toss out those Champions for a set of NGK DCPR8E’s. 3) Remove the front shield from the horizontal cylinder head. 4) Remove crankshaft cover on Riders LH side and insert crank tool. A crank tool can be made by following the drawing at the end of this document. See Fig 2 above. The flat head screws used are kind of soft so beware on their removal. 5) Remove oil pressure sending unit cable and remove oil sending unit. No oil should pour out. 6) Remove battery and remove bolts fastening battery box to engine/frame. You can let the battery box dangle or partially support it via a bungee cord. Be careful of the cable on the ground of the ECU. By dangling the battery box excess stress could be placed on this cables connector and you don’t want to troubleshoot an intermittent electrical issue. 7) Remove cam belt covers. The two covers over the cams are real easy. The center piece is removed by pulling it down. You may have to move some hoses and cables out Timing belt adj. doc 1
of the way because it is a tight fit. Removing the oil pressure sending unit gave clearance for the removal. Fig 1 shows bike ready to be worked on. On the Rider’s LH is a window on the case cover. Using a flashlight to illuminate the area, marks can be rotated into view using the engine turning tool. There are two marks denoting the TDC of each of the cylinders. When a mark in the window aligns with the pointer, look at the crank driving pulley on the Rider’s RH of the engine. If the driving pulley’s mark is aligned with the pointer on the engine case, you are at TDC horizontal cylinder. If the pulley mark and the pointer on the engine do not align, rotate the engine until the mark in the window on the Rider’s LH side case cover aligns as well as the pulley’s mark and the engine’s pointer. Fig 3 shows the engine pulley and pointer. You can check that the horizontal piston is at TDC by inserting a welding rod into the spark plug well and touch the top of the piston with it to sense its position. Timing marks on cam pulleys are clearly stamped on all four pulleys. When the crank driving pulley aligns with its corresponding pointer on the engine case and the marks on the pulleys align with their corresponding marks on both cylinders, you are in position for belt adjustment and replacement

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4-STROKE TRIUMPH SINGLE CYLINDER MOTORCYCLES ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1. Remove the petrol tank (and seat if necessary) to gain access to the ignition coil, condensor and wiring. 2. For safety, disconnect the battery, if fitted (preferably both terminals). 3. Remove the spark plug. 4. Remove the alternator rotor cover (if fitted). 5. Loosen the auto-advance centre bolt. Rotate the engine to the correct full advance timing position for your machine (see table on page 6), using one of these methods: • Models from 1967 on: use the marks provided for strobe timing on the rotor & chaincase (inside the rotor cover). Unless these marks are known to be accurate it is recommended that they are checked for correct alignment. These marks should line up at the full advance position, check using one of the methods below and, if necessary, re-mark the rotor. • Models from 1969 on: use the timing plug on the left-hand crankcase • Use a degree disc on the crankshaft / camshaft (see table on page 6) • Use a dial guage down the spark plug hole (see table on page 6) 5. Remove kickstart, gear lever and outer timing cover. 6. Remove the contact-breaker plate and lead from the outer timing cover. 7. Taking the ignition trigger assembly, insert a small cable tie into the two holes in front of the connector block on the ignition trigger. This will be used later to secure the two wires to the plate. 8. Fit the ignition trigger plate with the adjustable slots at approx. 6 & 12 o’clock, using the original pillar fixings & washers, positioned in the centre of the slots (to allow for adjustment in either direction). Handle the trigger with care. • RED EARTHING WIRE • CRIMP CONNECTORS & INSULATORS • LARGE & SMALL CABLE TIES • CABLE TIE ADHESIVE MOUNTING BASE 3
9. Remove the centre bolt securing the auto-advance unit. Remove the complete auto-advance unit with an extractor bolt or by tapping it gently sideways. 10. Fit the magnetic rotor in place of the auto-advance unit, with the magnets/ red marks positioned at approx. 3 & 9 o’clock. The magnetic rotor has a male taper which fits into the taper in the end of the camshaft. There is no keyway, allowing it to be fitted in any desired position. 11. Using the ¼” washer and the appropriate bolt (UNF or BSF), pass the bolt through the centre of the magnetic rotor and into the thread in the camshaft. Finger tighten only at this stage. The magnetic rotor centre thread (metric M8) is provided for attaching a puller, if the rotor should need to be removed for engine servicing, etc. 12. Replace the outer timing cover, gear lever & kickstart. 13. Check that the engine is still at the correct full advance position, then adjust the magnetic rotor position so that one of the red marks is centrally behind the static timing hole at 9 o’clock (see fig. 4, page 7). If your machine’s camshaft rotates clockwise, refer to fig. 3. Gently tap the rotor into the taper & tighten the centre bolt, using a 3/16″ allen key. WIRING: 14. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. Avoid coiling up surplus lead.

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1999 Toyota Camry LE V6 Body and Interior Maintenance Record

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 03-10-2011

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Action Date Mileage Day Cost (with tax) By Interval Notes Oil and Oil Filter Change 8/30/1999 2494 Monday$77.97 Dealer 2494Non-synthetic 5w-30 (Toyota dealer stock) Oil and Oil Filter Change 10/31/1999 5484 Sunday $30 Owner 2988.5Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Oil and Oil Filter Change 12/30/1999 8460 Thursday$30 Owner 2975.9Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Oil and Oil Filter Change 2/21/2000 11414 Monday $30 Owner 2953.3Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Oil and Oil Filter Change 4/22/2000 14479 Saturday$30 Owner 3065.6Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Oil and Oil Filter Change 7/4/2000 17339 Tuesday$30 Owner 2860.1Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Air Filter – Replace 7/4/2000 17339 Tuesday$15 Owner 17339Purolator A24690 Air Filter Oil and Oil Filter Change 9/16/2000 20161 Saturday$30 Owner 2821.9Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Transmission Drain and Fill 10/27/2000 21913 Saturday$15 Owner 21913Drain and Fill 2.5 Quarts Mobil 1 Dexron III Synthetic ATF Transmission Drain and Fill 10/28/2000 21920 Sunday $15 Owner 7Drain and Fill 2.5 Quarts Mobil 1 Dexron III Synthetic ATF Oil and Oil Filter Change 11/19/2000 23066 Sunday $30 Owner 2904.6Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Oil and Oil Filter Change 2/11/2001 26062 Sunday $30 Owner 2996.1Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Transmission Flush 4/30/2001 28351 Monday$135 Dealer 2835113 Quarts Mobil 1 Dexron III Synthetic ATF – TransTech Flush Tires – Rotate 5/12/2001 28766 Saturday$0 Dealer 28766Tires – Rotate Coolant Flush 5/12/2001 28766 Saturday$112 Dealer 28766Toyota Red Coolant + MOC Flush (Extended warranty with service) Oil and Oil Filter Change 5/13/2001 28793 Sunday $30 Owner 2730.6Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Air Filter – Replace 5/13/2001 28793 Sunday $15 Owner 11454Purolator A24690 Air Filter PCV Valve – Replace 5/26/2001 31083 Saturday$10 Owner 31083Toyota OEM PCV Valve Windshield Wipers – Replace 5/26/2001 31083 Saturday$10 Owner 31083Windshield Wipers – Replace Oil and Oil Filter Change 5/27/2001 31296 Monday $30 Owner 2502.8Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Oil and Oil Filter Change 9/15/2001 34374 Saturday$30 Owner 3078.5Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Tires – Replace 9/28/2001 34784 Friday$431.23 Dealer 34784 (4) Bridgestone RE950 Tires (2 of original tires had tread separation – ~30% tread remaining) Oil and Oil Filter Change 11/12/2001 37365 Monday $30 Owner

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ULTIMA IGNITION MODULE AND KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL FOR HARLEY DAVIDSON

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-03-2011

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Disconnect battery. 2. Mark location of timing plate in relation to inside of cam cover. This will give a starting point for timing on new module. Remove old ignition if applicable (see manual) Clymer, Haynes. 3. If your bike is not equipped with timing rotor M/W# 53-528 OEM#32402-83 you must buy one (included in kit). Also a single fire coil is needed (included in kit) M/W# 53-632. Any single fire coil rated 2-4 ohms can be used. NO SOLID CORE PLUG WIRES (copper, silver) they will damage the unit. 4. Install module: helpful hints, early model nose cones, i.e. Shovel Heads, the hole for the wire may need to be drilled out. Align with previously scripted mark for timing. Use lockwashers for stand offs for correct clearance of cover plate. Run wire loom. 5. Connect wires, see wiring diagram. Tape unused wires, green or brown. 12v to tach (brown) will damage module. Set timing. 1996 and later should not be timed 20˚ BTDC as the OEM module, but at 35˚ BTDC. Use this mark when using timing light. If VOESswitch is not used you must ground VOES wire (green) while timing. Refer to manual for correct identification of timing marks. At start up and timing, set spark advance in middle position. FUNCTION SWITCHES LED timing indicator light: When out, shows TDC. When ignition is on, LED will light up. When engine is cranking LED will blink. Electric Start/Kickstart: Set accordingly. VOES/Race mode: VOES switch lets the motor run smoother and improves gas mileage. If you don’t use it or add one tape up green wire and switch to race. VOES switch to use, M/W# 53-652. Spark advance: High compression motors should use race mode and 93 octane or better gas. Changing from VOES to race changes advance curves. Agood rule of thumb is if the engine knocks when throttle is applied in high gear, turn back spark advance curve until it stops engine knock. RPMlimiter: Set at desired RPM to cut engine power. Rear Cylinder: This is for racing and should be set at a dyno. +/-5˚. Rear cylinder timing is achieved through this adjuster. Most should dial to middle setting and leave alone. After all switches are set, install cover with supplied gasket and feel the increased performance of a solid state single fire ignition. Again, we remind you, if you don’t feel confident about installing this unit, let a qualified mechanic do it and be assured you are getting the best performance and gas mileage possible.

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HONDA GL1800 TIMING CHAIN COVER INSPECTION NUT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 28-02-2011

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GL1800 TIMING CHAIN COVER INSPECTION NUT 1. Place bike on center stand. 2. Remove the inspection nut on the bike using a 17mm socket. 3. Remove the rubber o-ring seal from the inspection nut and place on new inspection nut. 4. Install the new inspection nut using the 17mm socket.

Yamaha YZ250F 2001-2080 Wiseco High Performance Camshaft INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 15-01-2012

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Wiseco’s new Camshafts are made from premium materials, state-of-the-art forgings, machined to exact tolerances, and specifically engineered for high performance and maximum durability. Brought to you by one of the most trusted names in the industry… Wiseco. Wiseco Cam- blue OEM Cam- red Wiseco’s new high-performance camshafts for the Yamaha YZ250F produce 3% horsepower and 3% torque gain over the stock OEM camshaft across the entire RPM range.

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