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2007 Ural Models Gear Up Patrol Tourist Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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Font Brake Control Lever Clutch control lever: When the clutch lever is squeezed, the engine is disengaged from the gearbox. When the lever is released, the engine and gearbox are engaged. WARNING: MAKE SURE FINGERS ARE NOT POSITIONED BETWEEN HAND CONTROL LEVERS AND HANDLEBAR GRIPS OR OPERATION OF VEHICLE COULD BE IMPAIRED . WARNING: B EFORE STARTING ENGINE , ALWAYS SHIFT TRANSMISSION TO NEUTRAL TO PREVENT ACCIDENTAL MOVEMENT WHICH COULD CAUSE POSSIBLE DAMAGE TO MOTORCYCLE AND PERSONAL INJURY . Caution: Always engage the clutch release lever when shifting. Serious internal damage may result to the transmission if the clutch release lever is not engaged. Front brake control lever: When the lever is squeezed, the front wheel brake is actuated. The front brake should be used together with rear brake. When the brake lever is squeezed, the stop signal lights are switched on. 19 Kickstart lever : Designed to start the engine. Upon kicking the lever the crankshaft is actuated through the gearbox. The lever is returned to its initial position by the spring inside the gearbox. Gear shift lever: This is a heal shift type of lever. To shift up from a low gear to a high gear the rear arm(heal shift) is pressed. To shift down from a high gear to a low gear the from arm is depressed. Since the heel-toe shift lever is short-coupled, it is much easier to shift up using the heal shift, and to shift down using the toe shift with the ball of your foot. The neutral gear is between the 1st and 2nd gears. It is important to shift smoothly with a constant force, and not to kick the gear shift pedal. Serious damage may result to the shifting mechanism if the gear shift pedal is kicked, rather than pressed. NOTE: The neutral lamp will illuminate when the transmission is in neutral. (see “Starting the Engine”). Gear Shift Foot Pedal Kick Lever 20 Parking Brake Sidecar Drive Lever Rear Brake Pedal Parking Brake: Used to hold the bike when parked. To engage, press the rear brake pedal, push down and twist the parking brake lever counter clockwise. Sidecar drive engagement lever: Used to engage the drive axle to the sidecar wheel on the Patrol and Gear Up model motorcycles. WARNING: Never engage sidecar drive on concrete or hard surface. Severe damage to drivetrain will result if the sidecar drive is engaged on pavement. Rear brake lever: Actuates the rear brakes on both the motorcycle and sidecar. WARNING: DO NOT APPLY EITHER BRAKE STRONGLY ENOUGH TO LOCK THE WHEELS BECAUSE THIS MAY CAUSE POSSIBLE LOSS OF CONTROL OF THE MOTORCYCLE . ALWAYS USE BOTH BRAKES . NEVER STOP WITH FRONT OR REAR BRAKE ONLY . WARNING: AN IMPROPERLY ADJUSTED REAR BRAKE PEDAL COULD INTERFERE WITH PROPER REAR BRAKE OPERATION RESULTING IN POOR BRAKE ACTION

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Harley Davidson Twist Gear and Wide Gear Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 11-04-2012

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Assemble triple lip output seal 705002 and output spacer 280001 together. The seal is shipped with high performance grease packed into the seal lips to ensure lubrication and exclude dust & water. (Caution: Only high temperature grease should be used, grease is better than oil, never install the seal dry.) Slide the quad ring and seal/spacer assembly onto the transmission output shaft, then slide tool JE300001 ( TwistGear TM ) or JE300002 ( WideGear ) onto the shaft and finally tighten the nut until the tool drives the seal flush with the case. Do not attempt to install the main drive seal without the JE tool or the seal will be damaged, and the seal performance will be compromised (the JE seal is wider around the shaft for the third sealing lip, which will be damaged if a tool is pressed against it.) It is best that a new JE spacer be used each time a new seal is installed for quick break-in of the main lip seal surface. Counter Shaft Assembly Note the order and orientation of the gears on the counter shaft when it is removed from the trapdoor. Disassemble the counter shaft and transfer the parts to the TwistGear TM counter shaft. Note that the TwistGear TM counter shaft assembles in different order than the OEM counter shaft. Two washers are required in the position as shown in figure 1 (see arrow) before the retainer ring is installed. The second washer is included in the kit.

2007 Ural Retro Model Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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Kickstart lever : Designed to start the engine. Upon kicking the lever the crankshaft is actuated through the gearbox. The lever is returned to its initial position by the spring inside the gearbox. Gear shift lever: This is a heal shift type of lever. To shift up from a low gear to a high gear the rear arm(heal shift) is pressed. To shift down from a high gear to a low gear the from arm is depressed. Since the heel-toe shift lever is short-coupled, it is much easier to shift up using the heal shift, and to shift down using the toe shift with the ball of your foot. The neutral gear is between the 1st and 2nd gears. It is important to shift smoothly with a constant force, and not to kick the gear shift pedal. Serious damage may result to the shifting mechanism if the gear shift pedal is kicked, rather than pressed urn indicator lamp indicates that the turn signals are activated. Alternator fault indicator lamp , indicates that the charging system is malfunctioning and needs immediate attention. Gearbox neutral lamp indicates that the gearbox is in neutral. Head lamp high beam indicator , indicates that the headlight high beam is activated. Speedometer is on the dash board, with trip and total odometer. The trip odometer is reset to zero by rotating knob (Fig.1, # 3) counterclockwise. Note that the odometer reads in kilometers

2003 Model Ural Gear Up, Patrol, Tourist Owners Manual

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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19 Kick lever Is designed to start the engine. On pressing the lever the crankshaft of the engine is actuated through the gearbox. The lever is returned to its initial position by the spring inside the gearbox. Gear shift foot pedal Is a two-arm type. When the front arm is depressed, shifting from higher to lower gear takes place. When the rear arm is depressed, shifting from lower to higher gear takes place. Since the heel-toe shift lever is short-coupled, you will find it easier to shift into a higher gear if you do not use your heel to shift, rather the ball of your foot. The neutral position is fixed between the 1st and 2nd gears. It is important to shift smoothly with a constant force and not to kick the gear shift pedal. Serious damage may result to the shifting mechanism if the gear shift pedal is kicked, rather than pushed. IMPORTANT! The green pilot lamp will illuminate when either the transmission is in neutral or when the reverse gear is engaged (see “Starting the Engine”). Turn indicator pilot lamp indicates that the turn signals are activated. Alternator fault indicator lamp , indicates that the charging system is malfunctioning and needs immediate attention. Gearbox neutral and reverse gear engagement , indicates that the gearbox is either in neutral or in reverse. Head lamp high beam indicator , indicates that the headlight high beam is activated. Speedometer is on the dash board, with trip and total odometer. The trip odometer is reset to zero by rotating knob (Fig.1, # 3) counterclockwise. Note that the odometer reads in kilometers not miles.

Yamaha Road Star Forward Control Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Before starting to assemble this forward kit on your motorcycle check the packing list to make sure that the kit you received is the correct one for your model motorcycle and that the foot pegs are the style you ordered (billet or ISO). Next check the contents hardware kit P.N.0109-1000 against the packing list for completeness. Installing The Shift Control Photo 1 Remove wires from horn. Remove the two hex head bolts (Save for later installation) that mount the OEM shift controls to your motorcycle. Unthread stock shift rod at trans shift arm, leaving OEM rod end connected to stock shift arm. Using Original Metric hardware, place a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) to the bolt threads and mount the shift control plate to the motorcycle frame, Photo 2. FORWARD CONTROL KIT PM SHIFT CONTROL ASSEMBLY Note Before torquing the shift control mounting bolts down, tighten them snug and look behind the shift control mounting plate to where it contacts the mounting lug on the frame. Make sure it fits squarely to the lug before proceeding further. Torque the two shift control mounting bolts down to 25 ft-lb. Using a 3/8″ x 1″ hex head bolt with a lock and flat washer put a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) on the threads and insert the bolt through the rear of the control mounting plate and attach the foot-peg pivot to it. Tighten the bolt while holding the footpeg pivot so that its hinge is lined up in a 45˚ rear facing angle. Thread supplied shift rod coupler to stock shift rod end at trans arm. Mount the shift pedal to the other end of the shift ro d using a 5/16″ x 1″ socket head screw and Nylocnut . Adjust the transmission shift linkage so that the shift arm on the forward controls and the shift arm on the transmission are parallel. Secure it with the jam nuts. Apply a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) to the threads under the jam nut before tightening see Photo 3 After you have assembled the shift control onto your motorcycle you must align the footpeg. The folding footpeg assembly uses a blind stud to attach the footpeg to the footpeg pivot. Shim washers (3/8″ x .015″) are used on the stud between the footpeg and the pivot, see Photo 4, so that the top surface of the footpeg is correctly aligned for your foot when it is tightened down on the pivot. This is done by setting a couple of shim washers on the footpeg mounting stud “A” and then screwing the footpeg onto the mounting stud, if the footpeg is rotated to far forward then add another shim washer, if not far enough then remove a shim washer. After you have the selected the correct number of shims for your footpeg, disassemble the footpeg and put a drop of Loctite #271 (red) on both ends of the stud and reassemble the footpeg. This will also need to be done on the brake control footpeg. Setting Up the Master Cylinder The master cylinder pushrod return spring and pushrod boot must be installed on the master cylinder before it is assembled onto the forward control mount. The parts are shown in Photo 5: pushrod boot (A), pushrod return spring (B), spring seat washer (C), and master cylinder (D). Place the return spring seat washer into bore of master cylinder so that is sits on top of the piston retaining snap ring. Next set the pushrod return spring on the seat washer and slide the pushrod boot over the return spring now slip the big end of the boot over the flange on the master cylinder so that the ridge on the inside of the boot fits into groove “A” that is machined into the end of the master cylinder flange, see Photo 6. Installing The Brake Control Unplug stock brake light switch at master cylinder. Remove brake line from rear caliper. Remove the existing brake controls from your motorcycle down to the control mounting lug that is welded on to the frame’s right side, see Photo 8. Save Metric hardware for later use. A Shim Washer PHOTO 4 A B C D PHOTO 5 A PHOTO 6 PHOTO 7 Note For complete brake system removal instructions and precau – tions refer to the appropriate service manual for your year and model motorcycle

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Moto Guzzi Sport 1100i Owners Manual

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Filed Under (Moto Guzzi) by admin on 29-11-2010

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General features Identification data Instruments and controls Riding your motorcycle Break-in Maintenance and adjustments Wheel removal Service schedule Cleaning – Storing Cleaning the windscreen Lubrication Valve gear WEBER injectionignition system (I.A.W.) Electrical equipment Wiring diagram Illustrations Lubrication Pressure fed by gear pump. Oil filters: wire mesh inside sump and replaceable cartridge filter outside sump. Normal lubrication pressure 3.8Ö 4.2 [5] kg/cm2, pressure valve, thermostat and cooler. Low oil pressure sensor (electrical) on crankcase. Generator/Alternator On front of crankshaft (1 4V – 25A). Ignition “WEBER MARELLI” electronic digital induced discharge, with high efficiency coil. Spark plugs: Spark plug gap: 0,7 mm. SPORT 1100 DAYTONA R NGK BPR 6 ESI NGK DR9 E IMS Starting Electric starter (12V-1,2 kW) with solenoid engagement. Ring gear bolted on flywheel. Starter button (START) on right of handlebars. Driveline data Clutch Twin driven plates, dry type, on flywheel. Hand controlled by lever on left of handlebars. Primary drive By gears. Ratio: 1 to 1.3529 (tooth ratio 17/23). Gearbox 5-speed, with constantly meshed gears with front dog clutch. Incorporated cush drive. Pedal operated on the left side of the motorcycle. Gear ratios: Low gear = 1 to 1,812 (tooth ratio 16/29) 2nd gear = 1 to 1,250 (tooth ratio 20/25) 3rd gear = 1 to 1 (tooth ratio 23/23) 4th gear = 1 to 0,833 (tooth ratio 24/20) 5th gear = 1 to 0,730 (tooth ratio 26/19) Ratio: 1:4,125 (tooth ratio 8/33) Overall gear ratios (Engine-wheel): Low gear = 1 to 10,1150 2nd gear = 1 to 6,9761 3rd gear = I to 5,5809 4th gear = 1 to 4,6507 5th gear = 1 to 4,0783 Frame Rectangular section single-beam in NiCrMo steel. Semisupporting engine base. Suspensions Front: White Power upside-down hydraulic telescopic fork with individually adjustable rebound and compression; Rear: steel swing arm with oval cross section. Single shock absorber White Power with separate adjustment of spring preload and of hydraulic rebound and compression damping. Wheels Light alloy castings with 3 hollow spokes (rear wheel with cush drive unit). Rim sizes: – front: 3,50x 17 MT H2 – rear: 4,50×17 MT H2 Tires -front: 120/70 ZR 17 – rear: 160/70 ZR 17 [160/60 ZR 17] Type: Tubeless Front: two Brembo drilled semi-floating disc brakes in stainless steel for SPORT I 100; [two Brembo drilled floating discs, Racing type for DAYTONA RS] with fixed 4 differential piston calipers. Adjustable manual control lever on the right side of the handle-bar; – disc 320 mm;

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Harley-Davidson Motorcycle Reverse Gear Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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2.1 Obtain a small tube of Loctite® #262 (red) for use later. 2.2 Drain the transmission oil. 2.3 Remove the clutch adjustment cover (left side). 2.4 Remove rear exhaust header pipe (cross over exhaust pipe). 2.5 Remove the muffler support bracket. 2.6 Remove the clutch release cover (right side). 2.7 Remove clutch push rod and oil slinger. To be disassembled and modified later. 2.8 Remove the two nuts from the main (rear) and counter (front) transmission shafts. 2.9 Remove the transmission bearing housing (puller available from Champion Sidecars). To be replaced with new reverse gear transmission bearing housing (Trap Door). 2.10 Cover the exposed gears in the transmission with a cloth in preparation to cut the shifter fork shaft. 3 Install New Main and Countershaft Gears NOTE: Gears and Tapered Split Rings are factory matched sets. Do not mix!. 3.1 Locate the shifter fork rod, mark fork rod flush at transmission case and pull out 1/4″. Figure 1 Figure 2. Exposed Shoulders Mark shifter fork rod flush with case Remove Spacers Vehicle Transmission Counter Shaft Main Shaft Front of Motorcycle Figure 1
Reverse Gear Installation Instructions For EVO / 5 Speed and Twin Cam Harley-Davidson® Motorcycle Page 3 of 6 Revision 7 © 2007 Champion Motorcycle Accessories International, Inc. dba Champion Sidecars 11841 Monarch Street Garden Grove, CA 92841 (800) 875-0949 (714) 847-0949 www.championsidecars.com www.championtrikes.com Figure 6 CAUTION: Do not pull the shifter fork rod out of the transmission more than 1/4″. If you pull the shifter fork rod out too far, it will be difficult to realign it with the internal shifter fork. 3.2 Cut the shaft at the mark and push it back in. The shaft end MUST NOT stick out of the transmission case. If the shaft is in deeper, fill the hole with silicone to prevent the shaft from moving in and out. NOTE: Shifter fork is made of non-tempered metal and may be cut with a hacksaw or Dremel® cutting tool. 3.3 Important: Remove stock spacers from main and counter shafts. Spray with silicon remover (Brake-Clean) then, using supplied cleaning pad, clean shafts, new counter and main shaft gears and tapered lock rings (inside and outside) Figure 1 3.4 With motorcycle in neutral, pull both the shafts out and simultaneously push the OEM outermost gears in until seated completely to expose the shoulders of both shafts. The countershaft shoulder should be flush with the gear face. For the main shaft the gear would “hang over” the shoulder a small bit. Figure 2 3.5 Apply supplied Champion Super-Lock retaining compound to the inside and outside surfaces of the large gear tapered split ring, to the inside of the new countershaft gear (large gear) and to the transmission countershaft (the forward most shaft). 3.6 Install new countershaft gear to the transmission countershaft. Insert tapered split ring (tapered end first) into the countershaft gear. Install ring seat tool and spring to counter shaft and new countershaft gear. Torque ring seat tool to 40 ft-lb’s. Figures 3 and 4

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HARLEY-DAVIDSON BIG TWINS COMPUFIRE 1084 GEAR SETS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 26-11-2010

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1. Remove the seat and disconnect the cables at the battery. Remove the ground cable first and then the positive (+) cable. 2. Drain the oil in the outer primary case and remove the outer primary cover following instructions in the Factory Shop manual. 3. Bend the tab on the jackshaft bolt away from the bolt head. Remove the starter pinion gear with the jackshaft bolt, lock plate and washer. 4. Remove the clutch assembly using the procedure found in the Factory Shop manual. 5. Remove the original equipment ring gear from the clutch basket by drilling out the rivets with a 5/16-inch drill bit. Drill through the rivet head and tap the ring gear off the clutch basket using a hammer. 6. Drill out the six holes in the clutch basket with the 5/16-inch drill bit. RING AND STARTER PINION GEAR INSTALLATION 1. Attach the new 84-tooth ring gear to the clutch basket using the six 5/16×24 socket head cap screws supplied. NOTE… The bevel side of the ring gear (identified by the three dots) faces away from the starter motor. Torque the socket head cap screws to 29 ft lbs. 2. Assemble and install the primary drive assembly following the instructions in the factory Shop manual. 3. Install the new 10-tooth pinion gear with the jackshaft bolt, lock plate and thrust washer. Torque the jackshaft bolt to 7 – 9 ft lbs. Bend the lock tab on the lock plate against a flat on the jackshaft bolt head. 4. Measure and adjust the air gap between the ring gear and the pinion gear. See Fig-1 . The correct gap is .075 – .125 inch. If the gap is larger than .125 inch, use the supplied shim washers inside the jackshaft coupler. See Fig-2 . If the air gap is smaller than .075 inch, the jackshaft must be shortened by removing material from the splined end of the shaft. See Fig-3 . 5. Install the outer primary cover following instructions in the Factory Shop manual and refill the primary case with the proper amount of primary oil. 6. Re-install the battery cables in the reverse order they were removed. Re-install the seat

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COMPUFIRE 1084 GEAR SETS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 26-11-2010

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1. Remove the seat and disconnect the cables at the battery. Remove the ground cable first and then the positive (+) cable. 2. Drain the oil in the outer primary case and remove the outer primary cover following instructions in the Factory Shop manual. 3. Bend the tab on the jackshaft bolt away from the bolt head. Remove the starter pinion gear with the jackshaft bolt, lock plate and washer. 4. Remove the clutch assembly using the procedure found in the Factory Shop manual. 5. Remove the original equipment ring gear from the clutch basket by drilling out the rivets with a 5/16-inch drill bit. Drill through the rivet head and tap the ring gear off the clutch basket using a hammer. 6. Drill out the six holes in the clutch basket with the 5/16-inch drill bit. RING AND STARTER PINION GEAR INSTALLATION 1. Attach the new 84-tooth ring gear to the clutch basket using the six 5/16×24 socket head cap screws supplied. NOTE… The bevel side of the ring gear (identified by the three dots) faces away from the starter motor. Torque the socket head cap screws to 29 ft lbs. 2. Assemble and install the primary drive assembly following the instructions in the factory Shop manual. 3. Install the new 10-tooth pinion gear with the jackshaft bolt, lock plate and thrust washer. Torque the jackshaft bolt to 7 – 9 ft lbs. Bend the lock tab on the lock plate against a flat on the jackshaft bolt head. 4. Measure and adjust the air gap between the ring gear and the pinion gear. See Fig-1 . The correct gap is .075 – .125 inch. If the gap is larger than .125 inch, use the supplied shim washers inside the jackshaft coupler. See Fig-2 . If the air gap is smaller than .075 inch, the jackshaft must be shortened by removing material from the splined end of the shaft. See Fig-3 . 5. Install the outer primary cover following instructions in the Factory Shop manual and refill the primary case with the proper amount of primary oil. 6. Re-install the battery cables in the reverse order they were removed. Re-install the seat

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AJS DISMANTLING AND REBUILDING FULL-WIDTH FRONT WHEEL HUBS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Removal of the Brake-side Bearing Cup The bearing cup (5) is located endwise by a circlip (1), and between the cup and circlip arc an oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), and oil-seal cup washer (2) Before these parts can be removed from the hub the bearing cup must be moved inwards for a very short distance (3/16-inch) so that the circlip can be withdrawn. (n) Gently heat the hub shell. (i) Place a soft metal rod (e.g. brass) against the oil-seal cup washer (2) and apply pressure with a hand press or hammer blows. It is only necessary to move the bearing cup (5) inwards about 1/16-inch. (j) Extract the circlip by inserting a narrow pen-knife blade under one end of the circlip; lift it upwards and outwards and prise the clip out of its groove. (k) Remove the oil-seal cup washer (2), oil seal (3) and oil-seal retaining washer (4). They can be hooked out with the shank of a small and narrow screw­ driver, (l) The bearing cup can now be ejected by placing a suitable rod of soft metal (e.g. brass) in the hub tunnel from the right-hand side and pressing it — with a press or hammer blows — against the bearing cup until the cup is forced out of the bearing. This must be done with care so that the cup remains square with the housing. Reassembly To facilitate replacement of the bearing cups gently heat the hub shell. Just too hot to hold is about the right temperature. (a) Place the brake-side bearing cup squarely in the hub shell — the open end faces inwards — and press it into the hub tunnel A short length of brass rod, slightly less than the outside dia­ meter of the cup, should be interposed between the cup and ram of the press, or hammer head. Press the cup in until the outer face is approximately half-an-inch below the mouth of the hub tunnel. This will allow sufficient room to allow [he circlip to be inserted into its groove. (b) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), oil-seal cup washer (2). (c) The circlip can now be replaced. In the interest of reliability use a new circlip, for it is possible that the existing circlip was strained when it was re­ moved. (d) Insert into the hub tunnel from the right-hand side a brass rod of suitable length, and press the bearing cup firmly against the circlip. (e) Before inserting the spindle complete with the roller races, pack them with clean and fresh grease of a suitable grade (Mobilgrease No. 4. Castrolease heavy, Energrease C3, Esso Pressure Gun Grease. Shelf Retinax Grease CD or A). (0 Insert the spindle into the hub. (g) Place the right-hand side bearing cup in the hub tunnel; the open end faces inwards, It may be necessary to re-heat the hub to allow the cup to go into position without difficulty. (h) Press the cup into position, but do not force it fully home, leave some end play on the spindle. (i) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (6), oil-seal (7) and oil-seal cup washer (8). (j) Screw into the hub the adjusting sleeve (9) until it comes into contact with the bearing cup (5)

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