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2004 Kawasaki VN2000 Power Commander Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1 Remove the main seat and the passenger seat. 2 Remove the chrome left hand engine cover below the fuel tank. 3 Remove the fuel tank. To remove the fuel line squeeze the orange tabs of the connector and push in (Fig. A). 4 Unplug the three electrical con- nectors. 5 Remove the battery cover by removing the five screws (Fig. B). 6 Lay the PCIII in front of the battery temporarily (Fig. C). 7 Attach the black ground lead from the PCIII to the negative side of the battery. Fig. A Fig. B Fig. C i211-411 2004 Kawasaki VN2000 – PCIII USB – 2 Unplug these connectors Squeeze this line to remove Remove these screws Ground wire 8 Route the PCIIIharness towards the front of the bike (Fig. D). Follow the stock wiring harness through the guides. 9 Locate the stock 12 pin black connector from the throttle body. 10 Unplug this connector (Fig. E). There is a tab on the backside of this connector that if you push will allow the connector to be removed from the frame. 11 Plug the connectors from the PCIII in-line of the stock connector (Fig.F). Fig. D Fig. E Fig F i211-411 www.powercommander.com 2004 Kawasaki VN2000 – PCIII USB – 3 Unplug this connector PCIII harness Stock connectors PCIII connectors 12 Reinstall the battery cover. 13 Slide the PCIII into the supplied protective sleeve. 14 Lay the PCIII in front of the battery cover and under the seat bracket (Fig.G). Note: The picture shows the PCIII without the protective sleeve. Make sure to use the sleeve to prevent any damage to the unit. 15 Reinstall the fuel tank and connect the fuel line and connectors. 16 Reinstall the seat. Make sure the PCIII harness will not get damaged

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1999-2004 Kawasaki 1500 Drifter Power Commander Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1 Remove the seat. 2 Remove the left side cover. 3 Remove the speedometer assembly. 4 Unbolt the fuel tank. NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the fuel tank. It does however make the installation easier. If you do remove the tank, pay attention to the vent hose routing. Pressing the tabs on the black fuel line connector will allow the fuel line to be disconnected (Fig. A) 5 Remove the battery/ECU hold down bracket (Fig. B). 6 Unbolt and move the bank angle (tip over) sensor out of the way (Fig. C). Fig. A Fig. B Fig. C i201-411 www.powercommander.com 1999-2004 Kawasaki 1500 Drifter – PCIII USB – 2 Bank angle sensor (tip over switch) Remove these 2 bolts 7 Loosen the bolts holding the plastic tray on the left side of the bike (under the left side cover) (Fig. D). 8 Route the wire from the PCIII behind the plastic tray and under the frame side rail (Fig. E). 9 Retighten the bolts holding the plastic tray. 10 Continue routing the wires from the PCIII under the frame near the lower fuel tank mount and go up to the throttle body area (Fig. F). Fig. D Fig. E Fig F i201-411 www.powercommander.com 1999-2004 Kawasaki 1500 Drifter – PCIII USB – 3 Route PCIII harness between plastic tray and frame Route wires under frame Loosen these bolts 11 Disconnect the injector connector from the rear injector (Fig. H). 12 Plug the female PCIII connector with ORANGE/WHITE wire onto the rear injector (Fig. H). 13 Connect the male PCIII connector with ORANGE wire onto the stock injector connector (Fig. H). 14 Repeat steps 11 thru 13 for front injector using the PCIII connectors with the YELLOWcolored wires. 15 Locate the wires coming from the throttle position sensor. (Fig. H). The throttle position sensor is located on the right hand side of the throttle body. It is between the frame and engine

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Kawasaki Mule Lift Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 04-05-2012

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Front Lift Installation 1. Ensuring that the parking brake is set, place jack under center of the Mule front end and lift until front wheels clear the ground. Be careful to support Mule properly so that it is secure, but so that the A-arms and struts can droop to full extension. 2. Remove front wheels. 3. If applicable, remove the heater to allow access to the strut mount behind the heater coil. Heater 4. Starting with the left side (driver side), remove the cotter pin and castle nut that secures the strut to the strut mount. Castle Nut & Pen 5. Push bolt through the bolthole, taking care not to damage the brake line that is attached to the bolt. If you are having difficulty removing the bolt, you may have to remove the brake lines that are attached to the front brakes. In this case refer to owners manual for removing brake lines. Screwdriver NOTE: Keep in mind that if you remove the brake lines you must bleed your brakes according to operator’s manual. 6. Once the bottom of the strut has been loosened, then unbolt the top of the strut. The nuts securing the top strut can be located in the dash of the Mule on the left and right sides. In most cases these nuts are easily accessible, but you may have to remove the glove box or heater coils, depending on the model and options purchased with the Mule.

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2001 – 2004 Camry, Highlander, Solara & 2004

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 12-10-2011

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2004 model year Camry, Highlander, Solara and 2004 model year RAV4 vehicles with the 2AZ-FE engine may exhibit squealing and/or rattling noises coming from the engine compartment during vehicle operation especially after a cold soak. The belt tensioner assembly has been improved to correct this condition. 2001 – 2004 model year Camry, Highlander and Solara vehicles equipped with 2AZ-FE engines produced BEFORE the Production Change Effective VINs shown below. 2004 model year RAV4 vehicles produced BEFORE the Production Change Effective VINs shown below. MODEL ENGINE LINE PRODUCTION CHANGE EFFECTIVE VIN TMMK Line 1 4T1BE3#K#4U358206 Camry TMMK Line 2 4T1BE3#K#4U914052 y 2AZFE Tsutsumi JTDBE3#K#40296732 Highlander 2AZ-FE TMK JTE#D2#A#40100501 Solara TMMK 4T1CE3#P#4U914074 RAV4 Tahara JTE#D2#V#40029797 PREVIOUS PART NUMBERCURRENT PART NUMBER PART NAME QTY 16620-28010 16620-28011 Tensioner Assembly, V-ribbed Belt 1 OP CODE DESCRIPTION TIME OFP T1 T2 EG8001 R & R Accessory Belt Tensioner 0.9 16620-28010 91 55 Applicable Warranty*: This repair is covered under the Toyota Comprehensive Warranty. This warranty is in effect for 36 months or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle’s in-service date. *Warranty application is limited to correction of a problem based upon a customer’s specific complaint

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The New Kawasaki ZX-6R Trading in gets easier and easier

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 18-02-2011

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didn’t go to my local Kawasaki shop expecting to trade in the 2004 636 I’d been happily riding. I honestly didn’t expect there to be anything on the floor that would motivate me to bring the bike in. Some of you reading this may be able to relate to what I am saying, the day you don’t look for something is the day that you find exactly what you didn’t know you need. That was the day I decided I needed to take home the new ZX-6R. The reworking of the new ZX-6R is more than just about looking good. According to KMC the engine has been redesigned from the crankcase up for the first time in ten years. Racing technology built into the new bike is a close-ratio cassette transmission that can be removed without the needing to split the main crankcases in case you needed to make repairs or adjustments at the track. They also tell us that the fuel injection system has shorter throttle bodies with a smaller diameter bore which claim to give this new smaller sized engine more torque in the mid-range. It also comes with a GPS – Gear Position Sensor. The new ZX-6R comes stock with a slipper clutch which is one difference between the 2004 and 2007. My 2004′s rear wheel would hop if I geared down before a corner and my engine rpms were too high. The slipper clutch allows quicker downshifts. To experience the gains of a slipper clutch you don’t have to buy a 2007 Kawasaki – it was introduced to the 636 in 2005. A quick glance at the exhaust might leave the impression that the ZX-6R comes stock with stacked twin small diameter exhaust cans but if you look closely you will see it is a single oval pipe with a shotgun styled end cap. The titanium pipe has the pre-chamber and catalyser located below the engine to keep the weight on the bike low and centered and the temperature of the under seat silencer reduced. Looking at the new Kawasaki with its fairing removed, I wonder how much more it would have cost the consumer to have an exhaust system that not only works wonders but would be worth showing off? Even if some of the systems of the new 600 look better hidden by plastic the bike does have a cohesive look and every year the fit and finish of Kawasaki’s bikes seem to get better. You can look at this bike from almost any angle and nothing jumps out at you – unless you are on the right side of the bike looking at the rear brake reservoir. It seems odd to me that they would leave the rear brake reservoir exposed. Another design feature of the smooth body of the 2007 ZX-6R is the lack of tie down points for any luggage. It can be argued that this is a bike intended for Sunday morning canyon rides or track days on weekends but if you want to take the 600 out for a weekend away then there is aftermarket solution. Ventura Racks allow you go on vacation with your bike. A Ventura Rack provides you with a frame that you attach to your bike that you can secure luggage to. There is no drilling of body work and the Ventura rack I got fit onto the bike perfectly the first try. One of the things I really like about the Ventura Rack is that you can easily attach bags that you may already have or you have the option of buying the Ventura luggage system. Just give yourself time before a motorcycle trip to pack

Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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Kawasaki Mule 610 Without coil springs Installation

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1.)Begin by loosening the lug nuts on both front tires. Raise the unit, using a suitable lifting device or procedure, until the front tires are off the ground. If using a floor jack with stands, chock the rear wheels to prevent the unit from rolling. If using jack stands, make sure the stands are placed under the frame and not the body. Make sure the unit is stable and secure . 2.)Remove the tires / wheels. NOTE: Now is a good time to check the threads on the lug studs. Check for rust, pulled threads or other deterioration that could cause a stud/thread failure. 3.) The first thing to do is remove the front cowl and trunk on the bike. You can accomplish this by removing all the bolts (screws) around the perimeter of the cowl and removing some plastic “snap rivets”. To remove the rivets simply pull the center section up and then the rest will follow. 4.)Place a floor jack, or other suitable device, beneath the left side lower control arm. This is to prevent damage to the tie rod or slip yoke boot while disassembling the lower control arm and strut. Using a 14mm socket, remove the two retaining nuts and lock washers on the top of the struts. 5.)Leaning the strut forward toward the headlamp buckets will put the strut in position to allow you to reach over the top and place the strut spacer in place. Install the strut spacer on top of the coil retainer and tightening the nuts. Install the supplied gasket on top of the strut spacer, and re-install the strut assembly

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2004 Kawasaki ZX10R Power Commander Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-05-2012

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Remove the main seat and the passenger seat 2. Remove the tail cover by removing the two bolts. 3 Place the Power Commander in the tail section and route the wiring harness on the inside of the tail section towards the front of the bike (Fig. A). 4. Remove the fuel tank. 5. Remove the air box lid by removing the 8 screws around the outer edge (Fig. B). 6. Remove the bolts shown in Fig. C. This will allow you to remove the air box. Fig. A Fig. B Fig. C i212-411 2004-2005 Kawasaki ZX10R – PCIII USB – 2 i212-411 www.powercommander.com Remove these bolts Remove screws Remove bolts 7. Locate the Throttle Position Sensor connector. This connector is located above the left hand side of the engine. This is a white 3 pin connector. Unplug this connector (Fig. D). 8. Plug the white connectors from the PCIII in-line of the stock TPS connector (Fig. E). 9. Locate the fuel rail connector behind the injector bodies (Fig. F). This connector is brown in color

2003-2004 Kawasaki VN1600 Power Commander Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1 Remove the main seat and the passenger seat. 2 Remove the fuel tank Note: The installation can be done without removing the fuel tank but it may be easier to have it removed 3 To remove the fuel line squeeze the sides of the connector (Fig. A). Disconnect the two electrical connectors. 4 Loosen the four bolts holding on the left hand side cover (Fig. B). 5 Route the PCIII harness between the tray and the frame (Fig. C). Fig. A Fig. B Fig. C i209-411 www.powercommander.com i209-411 www.powercommander.com 2003-2004 Kawasaki Z1000 – PCIII USB – 2 Disconnect these lines Squeeze this line to remove Loosen these bolts PCIII harness 6 Continue routing the PCIII harness towards the front of the bike. Route underneath the frame and towards the left hand side of the rear cylinder (Fig. D). 7 Continue routing the PCIIIhar- ness along the frame towards the front of the bike. Locate the stock connector for the throttle bodies (Fig. E). 8 Unplug this connector. 9 Plug the connectors from the PCIII in-line of the stock connector (Fig. F)

2004-2007 Kawasaki STX-15F Supercharger Kit installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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ENGINE REMOVAL: 1. Turn ignition off, remove lanyard, disconnect battery cables and remove battery. 2. Remove engine following steps outlined in section 7 of Kawasaki service manual. NOTE: Replace oil filter if engine was run previously. Please recycle used oil and oil filter. NOTE: Clear an area on a sturdy workbench or heavy-duty cart to place engine after removal. Be sure to carefully place engine on a smooth surface so as not to damage oil pan. It is recommended that you have assistance for the engine removal process. 3. Replace stock pistons, rings, piston pins, clips, cylinder head gasket and cylinder base gasket with supplied forged pistons, rings, piston pins, clips, cylinder head gasket and cylinder base gasket following the steps outlined in section 6 of the Kawasaki service manual. NOTE: This is an involved process requiring advanced mechanical skills and 4-stroke engine experience. DO NOT ATTEMPT if you are not mechanically inclined or familiar with 4-stroke engines. 4. Remove OE crankshaft coupler and discard. 5. Locate boss on PTO housing just above crankshaft. Cut off at a 45° angle. (See page 1 of Installation Images) NOTE: Cover end of crankshaft. Thoroughly clean engine afterwards. EXHAUST SYSTEM MODIFICATIONS: 6. Inside hull under rear grab handle remove air inlet tubes. Disconnect hoses for stock bilge pick-ups from breather fittings. (see illustration #1) 7. Remove exhaust hose connecting primary muffler (left water box) to secondary muffler (right water box). Disconnect remaining hoses from breather fittings. Remove exhaust hose connecting secondary water box to exhaust outlet. (see illustration #2) NOTE: Retain hose clamps. 8. Remove section of foam between top deck and pump area and discard. 9. At rear of hull remove and discard plastic exhaust outlet nozzle. Remove exhaust outlet, cut 5-3/4″ from end of flange and weld a bead around modified end of exhaust outlet. (see illustration #3) NOTE: Sand or file edge after modifying. 10. Install one supplied silicone coupler onto modified exhaust outlet and secure using OE hose clamp. (see illustration #4) Install exhaust outlet into hull and secure using stock hardware. (see illustration #5) NOTE: Be sure rubber gasket is in place between flange and hull. Do not use any sealant. Apply blue Loc-tite to bolts. Do not over tighten bolts. 11. Install supplied billet exhaust outlet tip using supplied hardware. (see illustration #6) NOTE: Apply blue Loc-tite to bolts. Do not over tighten bolts.

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