2004 ktm pushrod bearing seal

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KTM Front Wheel Bearing Installation Manuals

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 31-01-2012

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1 Place motorcycle on a stand so that the front wheel is off the ground. 2 Using a 27mm socket remove the front axle nut. Using a 10mm socket, loosen the four front axle pinch bolts. Slide front axle out of forks and remove front wheel. 3 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the aluminum wheel bearing spacers and push up against the inner edge of the spacer on the opposite side of the wheel (Fig. 1). Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the spacer until it completely slides out of the bearing (Fig. 2). Turn the wheel over and remove the other spacer in the same way. 4 Use a long screwdriver or narrow pry bar and pry the seals out of each side of the wheel (Fig. 3). 5 Using snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining snap ring from the brake rotor side of the wheel. (Fig. 4) NOTE: 2003 – CURRENT MODELS USING # 16-092 KIT DO NOT USE THIS SNAP RING. 6 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the wheel bearing, and push up against the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side of the wheel. Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the bearing until it completely slides out of the hub. Turn the wheel over and remove the other bearing in the same way. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the punch sideways at first to knock the center aluminum sleeve off center so that you are able to get the punch on the edge of the bearing. 7 Clean areas where bearings will be inserted back into hub and apply a thin coat of grease around the machined hub surface. Tap the bearing on the snap ring (if used, either side if not) side of the hub into the machined hub surface, making sure to keep it square with the hub as it goes in and only tap on the outer race of the bearing. Once you get the bearing flush with the outer edge of the hub, use a socket or piece of pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing into the hub. (Fig. 5) 8 Install the bearing retainer snap ring (if used) into the groove machined in the hub, and then tap the seal in place over the snap ring with the spring on the seal in towards the center of the wheel. Tap in the aluminum spacer in the center of the seal.

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AJS DISMANTLING AND REBUILDING FULL-WIDTH FRONT WHEEL HUBS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Removal of the Brake-side Bearing Cup The bearing cup (5) is located endwise by a circlip (1), and between the cup and circlip arc an oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), and oil-seal cup washer (2) Before these parts can be removed from the hub the bearing cup must be moved inwards for a very short distance (3/16-inch) so that the circlip can be withdrawn. (n) Gently heat the hub shell. (i) Place a soft metal rod (e.g. brass) against the oil-seal cup washer (2) and apply pressure with a hand press or hammer blows. It is only necessary to move the bearing cup (5) inwards about 1/16-inch. (j) Extract the circlip by inserting a narrow pen-knife blade under one end of the circlip; lift it upwards and outwards and prise the clip out of its groove. (k) Remove the oil-seal cup washer (2), oil seal (3) and oil-seal retaining washer (4). They can be hooked out with the shank of a small and narrow screw­ driver, (l) The bearing cup can now be ejected by placing a suitable rod of soft metal (e.g. brass) in the hub tunnel from the right-hand side and pressing it — with a press or hammer blows — against the bearing cup until the cup is forced out of the bearing. This must be done with care so that the cup remains square with the housing. Reassembly To facilitate replacement of the bearing cups gently heat the hub shell. Just too hot to hold is about the right temperature. (a) Place the brake-side bearing cup squarely in the hub shell — the open end faces inwards — and press it into the hub tunnel A short length of brass rod, slightly less than the outside dia­ meter of the cup, should be interposed between the cup and ram of the press, or hammer head. Press the cup in until the outer face is approximately half-an-inch below the mouth of the hub tunnel. This will allow sufficient room to allow [he circlip to be inserted into its groove. (b) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), oil-seal cup washer (2). (c) The circlip can now be replaced. In the interest of reliability use a new circlip, for it is possible that the existing circlip was strained when it was re­ moved. (d) Insert into the hub tunnel from the right-hand side a brass rod of suitable length, and press the bearing cup firmly against the circlip. (e) Before inserting the spindle complete with the roller races, pack them with clean and fresh grease of a suitable grade (Mobilgrease No. 4. Castrolease heavy, Energrease C3, Esso Pressure Gun Grease. Shelf Retinax Grease CD or A). (0 Insert the spindle into the hub. (g) Place the right-hand side bearing cup in the hub tunnel; the open end faces inwards, It may be necessary to re-heat the hub to allow the cup to go into position without difficulty. (h) Press the cup into position, but do not force it fully home, leave some end play on the spindle. (i) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (6), oil-seal (7) and oil-seal cup washer (8). (j) Screw into the hub the adjusting sleeve (9) until it comes into contact with the bearing cup (5)

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Honda 400EX Hub installation instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 20-12-2011

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Remove all contents from its packaging and verify that all parts are present and free from damage. You should have the following items: (2) wheel hubs (2) smaller tapered bearings (2) large tapered bearings (2) wheel bearing nuts (2) dust caps (2) inner bearing seals (6) M3 x .5 screws (2) cotter pins (2) inner bearing spacers 2. Completely remove the old hubs from your quad and clean the spindle and the surrounding areas. It is very important to keep the new bearings and seals clean during installation for long life. Be sure to remove the factory inner bearing spacers from the spindle and discard. They will not be used in re-assembly. 3. Pack your new Timken tapered wheel bearings with a liberal amount of high quality wheel bearing grease. A wheel bearing packer works best, however you can accomplish the task by placing the grease in the palm of your hand and manually working it in between the bearing rollers. We also recommend that you pack the area between the bearing races in the hub with grease for additional lubrication and protection against moisture. 4. Place the large wheel bearing (inner) into the hub and install the inner seal. The seal should bottom out against the step in the bore and the face should be flush with the hub. 5. Remove the brake rotors from your old hubs. Re-install the rotors on your new hubs and be sure to use medium strength Loctite on the threads. 6. Apply a light film of grease or oil to the large diameter of the spindle stud. Install the new o-ringed bearing spacer onto the spindle. 7. Apply a thin film of grease to the seal surface on the bearing spacer and the inside diameter of the seal to prevent the seal from running dry. Install the hub onto the spindle and slide the outer bearing over the spindle and install the new bearing nut furnished with your hubs. Do not use the factory nut or washer. 8. SETTING THE BEARING PRELOAD: It is first necessary to seat the bearing before setting the preload. This aligns the rollers and prevents the bearings from loosening after a short period of use. To seat the bearing, tighten the spindle nut while you rotate the hub until the hub becomes difficult to spin. With the bearing now seated, you must set the bearing preload. Preload means placing a small amount of force against the bearings to remove any clearance between the bearing race and the rollers. This is done by backing the nut off completely and re-tightening it with your fingers. Do not rotate the hub while setting the preload . If a hole in the spindle is not accessible for installation of the cotter pin, adjust the nut tighter to bring a hole into alignment. Install the cotter pin and bend the pin around the outside of the nut. Do not attempt to bend the pin toward you (over the end of the spindle) or it may rub on the inside of the dust cap.

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KTM Rear Wheel Bearing Installation and REMOVAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 23-01-2012

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1 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the aluminum wheel bearing spacers and push up against the inner edge of the spacer on the opposite side of the wheel (Fig. 1). 2 Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the spacer until it completely slides out of the bearing (Fig. 2). Turn the wheel over and remove the other spacer in the same way. 3 Use a long screwdriver or narrow pry bar and pry the seals out of each side of the wheel (Fig. 3). 4 Using snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining snap ring from either the disc or sprocket side of the wheel (Fig. 4). 5 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the wheel bearing, and push up against the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side of the wheel. Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the bearing until it completely slides out of the hub. Turn the wheel over and remove the other bearing in the same way. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the punch sideways at first to knock the center aluminum sleeve off center so that you are able to get the punch on the edge of the bearing. 6 Clean areas where bearings will be inserted back into hub and apply a thin coat of grease around the machined hub surface. Tap the bearing on the snap ring side of the hub into the machined hub surface, making sure to keep it square with the hub as it goes in and only tap on the outer race of the bearing. Once you get the bearing flush with the outer edge of the hub, use a socket or piece of pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing into the hub. (Fig. 5)

HARLEY DAVIDSON WHEEL BEARING REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION TOOL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-02-2011

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BEARING REMOVAL 1. Place the wheel vertically in a vise and protect the rim from being marred. NOTE See Figure 1 for the tool lubrication locations before using. 2. Assemble the remover tool. a. Install wheel bearing puller (1), (2) or (16) depending on the bearing I.D. See the service parts table for the size reference. Install the wheel bearing puller into the bearing by hand or use a rubber mallet ( not a hard-faced hammer) to push through the bearing I.D. Stop pushing on the bearing puller as soon as it has cleared the inside of the bearing race. There will be a slight click. b. Place main body puller (3) over bearing puller with the fingers of main body puller facing the wheel. Lightly oil all threads. c. Place the large brass washer (10) and nut (13) onto the puller and hand-tighten the nut until it stops at the top face of the bridge. 3. Remove the front wheel bearings. a. Apply a small amount of oil to the taper at the hex end of the expander dowel. Insert the expander dowel (7) through the other side of wheel bearings, and through the bearing puller. b. Install the washer (15 and nut (14) to the expander dowel and torque to 100 in-lbs (11.3 Nm) with a 11/16 inch wrench or socket while holding the other side of the expander dowel by reaching the opposite side of the wheel with a 3/8 inch hex key. c. Align the main body puller support fingers centered over the bearing to be removed. If main body puller will be directly on a finished chrome surface, protect the surface area. d. If resistance is felt with a torque wrench set at 40 ft- lbs (54.2 Nm) of torque, you will need to apply heat to the hub area surrounding the bearing. Prior to applying heat, place 2 to 3 temperature stickers (P/N 94146-10) around the circumference of the hub. Apply indirect heat using a heat gun. Do not exceed 210°F. With a 1-1/8 inch socket and torque wrench, turn the nut (13) until the bearing is pulled free from the wheel hub. e. Using a 3/8 in. hex key on an extension and torque wrench set on the expander dowel (7) and a 1-1/8 inch wrench. Turn the nut (13) until the bearing is free of the wheel hub. 4. Remove the wheel bearing spacer from the I.D. of the wheel hub. 5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the opposite bearing. NOTE Remove rear wheel belt sprocket before removing the bearings. 6. Rear wheel bearing removal is the same as steps 1 through 4 by using the correct size wheel bearing puller

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AJS WHEEL BEARING ADJUSTMENT

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Front Wheel (a) With the machine on the centre stand, disconnect the brake cable and remove the wheel. (b) Slacken the circular lock-nut (10). (c) Turn the adjusting sleeve (9) clockwise until all the slackness is just taken up. (d) Turn the adjusting sleeve (9) anticlockwise one-half a turn. It will now be necessary to drive the bearing back against the sleeve and this is done by:— (e) placing the wheel under a press and pressing the end of the spindle (on the brake-side) downwards. or: (f) jarring the end of the spindle on the brake-side with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged, (g) Tighten the circular lock-nut (10). Hold the sleeve in position while this is being done otherwise the sleeve may move and the adjustment will be in- correct. (h) Refit the wheel and check for end-float. Front Wheel Bearing Assembly T www.ajs-matchles s.info ISSUED BY A·J·S MOTOR CYCLES, LONDON, S.E.18. Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly for Quickly Detachable Wheels Rear Wheel (a) Disconnect the speedometer driving cable. (b) Remove the lock-nut (16) which secures the speedometer-drive gear­ box in position. (c) Remove the wheel. (d) Grasp the speedometer-drive gearbox (15) with the fingers and firmly pull it away from the hub. (e) Proceed as described in the instructions for the front wheel (b) to (d). Note that in the illustrations for the rear wheel the circular lock-nut is (13) and the adjusting sleeve is (14), It will now be necessary to drive the bearing back against the sleeve and this is done in the following manner: Quickly Detachable Wheels (f) place the wheel under a press, brake- side uppermost, and apply pressure to the oil-seal distance piece (6), or; (g) jarr the end of the oil-seal distance piece (6) with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged. Wheels for Rigid-Frame Models (h) Remove the brake-side spindle nut (19), washer (18), fork-end spacer (17), outer spacer (20), and the brake plate (21). (i) Place the wheel, brake-side uppermost. under a press and apply pressure to the oil-seal distance piece (6). or; (j) jarr the end of the oil-seal distance piece (6) with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged. All Rear Wheels (k) Refit the speedometer-drive gearbox. It is pushed on. The two dogs must engage with the slots in the end-face of the adjusting sleeve. (l) Refit the lock nut (16). (m) Refit the wheel into the frame and check for end-float. (n) Tighten the lock-nut (16) and refit the speedometer driving cable

HARLEY DAVIDSON PUSHROD COVER RETAINER INSTALLATION AND REMOVAL TOOL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-03-2011

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Figure 1. Pushrod Cover Retainer Installation and Removal Tool There are no Service Parts available with this kit. REMOVAL 1. See Figure 2. Insert the pin of the pushrod cover retainer tool into the retainer loop with the back of the tool towards the cylinder fins. Rotate the tool towards the cylinder to remove the pushrod cover retainer. INSTALLATION 2. See Figure 3. Load the pushrod cover retainer into the tool as shown in figure 3. Place the top edge of pushrod cover against top edge of push rod. 3. See Figure 4. Place the tool on top of the spring cover. Pivot the tool upward to install the pushrod cover retainer is05892a Figure 2. Removing Pushrod Cover Retainer is05895a Figure 3. Loading Pushrod Cover Retainer in Tool is05893a Figure 4. Pushrod Cover Retainer Installation

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2001 – 2004 Camry, Highlander, Solara & 2004

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 12-10-2011

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2004 model year Camry, Highlander, Solara and 2004 model year RAV4 vehicles with the 2AZ-FE engine may exhibit squealing and/or rattling noises coming from the engine compartment during vehicle operation especially after a cold soak. The belt tensioner assembly has been improved to correct this condition. 2001 – 2004 model year Camry, Highlander and Solara vehicles equipped with 2AZ-FE engines produced BEFORE the Production Change Effective VINs shown below. 2004 model year RAV4 vehicles produced BEFORE the Production Change Effective VINs shown below. MODEL ENGINE LINE PRODUCTION CHANGE EFFECTIVE VIN TMMK Line 1 4T1BE3#K#4U358206 Camry TMMK Line 2 4T1BE3#K#4U914052 y 2AZFE Tsutsumi JTDBE3#K#40296732 Highlander 2AZ-FE TMK JTE#D2#A#40100501 Solara TMMK 4T1CE3#P#4U914074 RAV4 Tahara JTE#D2#V#40029797 PREVIOUS PART NUMBERCURRENT PART NUMBER PART NAME QTY 16620-28010 16620-28011 Tensioner Assembly, V-ribbed Belt 1 OP CODE DESCRIPTION TIME OFP T1 T2 EG8001 R & R Accessory Belt Tensioner 0.9 16620-28010 91 55 Applicable Warranty*: This repair is covered under the Toyota Comprehensive Warranty. This warranty is in effect for 36 months or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle’s in-service date. *Warranty application is limited to correction of a problem based upon a customer’s specific complaint

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Harley Davidson HIGH PERFORMANCE QUICK- INSTALL ADJUSTABLE PUSHRODS INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-10-2010

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1. Remove stock pushrods using a bolt cutter. 2. Place the motorcycle on a hydraulic center stand with the rear wheel raised off the ground. Remove spark plugs. CAUTION 1 WARNING 1 WARNING CAUTION 1 WARNING CAUTION ® i02097.tif Figure 1. Adjustable Push Rod Kit Number 17997-99A Pushrod Tube Adjusting Screw Flats Adjusting Screw Locknut 1 of 2 Exhaust Pushrod Tube has Thicker “Finished” area and is slightly longer Intake Pushrod Tube has Thinner “Finished” area and is slightly shorter 3. With transmission in gear use rear wheel to turn engine over until both front cylinder tappets are at their lowest point. 4. Replace O-rings, lower pushrod cover and spring cover keeper with new components supplied in kit. 5. See Figure 1. Loosen locknut on all of the pushrods and adjust them to their shortest length. NOTE See Figure 1. In Step 6, pushrods with the Thinner “Finished” area on the tubes must be installed to the Intake location on the cylinders; pushrods with the Thicker “Finished” area on the tubes are slightly longer and must be installed to the Exhaust locations on the cylinders. 6. Install pushrods with pushrod covers. Be sure adjuster end of pushrod is down and ball end of adjuster is in tappet socket. 7. If hydraulic tappets are used, adjust pushrods following procedure A. With solid tappets, follow procedure B. NOTE Pushrod adjustment must be made with engine cold. PROCEDUREA (Hydraulic Tappets) 1A. Adjust pushrod length to zero clearance. 2A. See Figure 1. With the pushrod tube kept from rotating with a 1/2 inch or adjustable wrench, slowly turn the adjusting screw with a 5/16 in. wrench, 2-1/2 complete turns counter clockwise (lengthening the pushrod) as viewed from the bottom. (You may wish to mark adjuster to aid in counting turns.) 3A. Hold adjusting screw and tighten locknut with 1/2 in. open end wrench against the pushrod tube. If pushrod turns with locknut use three open end wrenches, one to hold the pushrod tube, one to hold adjusting screw and one to turn locknut.

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ESCAPADE TRAILER Wheel Bearing Removal AND OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 20-11-2010

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1. Remove lug nuts and wheel assembly. Remove the cotter pin, adjusting nut (castle nut) and washer from the wheel spindle. 2. Pull the wheel hub towards you to loosen the outer bearing cone. Don’t Let the cone fall to the ground. As the hub is removed, the inner bearing and grease seal will come with it. Observe which direction the inner seal is facing. Pry out the inner seal and discard. 3. Remove all old lubricant from the hub assembly and wheel spindle with kerosene or mineral spirits. CAUTION: do not use gasoline to clean and remove the old lubricant). Inspect the spindle for scoring, bending, thread or other damage. A light grease coating on the spindle will make bearing installation easier and prevent rust from forming. 4. Inspect cups in the hub for pitting, metal flaking, scoring, rust or other obvious damage. Remove any damaged cups with a mild steel bar. Replace cups and cones in matched sets only; not one at a time. 5. Use cup driver or mild steel bar to press or drive the new cup into the hub Wheel / Rim: 12 X 4 JA (4 bolt, 4″ bolt diameter, 2½” rear space) Tire: 4.80 X 12 (B) (4 ply rated; cold pressure rated to 465 lbs. of load at 25 PSI). NOTE: These are standard utility trailer size tires and wheels. Using oversize tires or increasing tire pressures to a level higher than recommended will not increase the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). HUBS For maximum performance from your Sport Wheels and to avoid damage to your trailer, observe the following precautions: •When buying a replacement hub, check that the hub flange is no smaller than a diameter of ?”. •The replacement hub must accept the 1″ bearing (Part Number L44643) and matching cup. •Torque all lug nuts holding the wheel to 75 ft. lbs. TRAILING ARM / SWING ARM No maintenance is required for the trailing arm bearings for the life of the trailer. However, if the trailing arm is removed for any reason the following steps must be followed. 1. Once the ¾” X 16 hex nut has been removed, discard it, and replace with a new lock nut of the same design. 2. When replacing the trailing arm, be sure the bearing spacer is located between the bearings. 3. Torque the hex nut to 14 ft. lbs while moving swing-arm up and down.. DO NOT BACK OFF FOR ADJUSTMENT . Insufficient torque to the

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