2007 softail conversion kit belt drive to chain

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SECONDARY BELT EMERGENCY KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-02-2011

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The 40101-80 kit, with a 126 tooth belt, fits: •1980-1986 FXB and 1984-1986 FXWG models This kit may also be used on 1989-1992 international Softail models with a 127 tooth belt. The 40171-97 kit, with a 130 tooth belt, fits: •1995 and later domestic Softail models •1994 and later international Softail models •1994 and later international Dyna models The 40109-86 kit, with a 132 tooth belt, fits •1986-1992 and 1994 domestic Softail models •1989-1993 international FLT and FXR models This kit may also be used on the following models with 133 tooth belts: •1991 and later domestic Dyna models •1991-1992 international Dyna models •1994-1995 international FLT models The 40100-85 kit, with a 136 tooth belt, fits: •1985-1994 domestic FXR models •1985-1996 domestic FLT models •1996 international FLT models The 40112-97 kit, with a 139 tooth belt fits •1997 FLT models Installation 1. Put transmission in ‘Neutral’. 2. Loosen rear axle nut. Loosen rear axle adjuster nut on each side of motorcycle, and move rear wheel to full forward position. 3. Remove the damaged/broken belt. 4. Inspect sprockets and belt guard for damage and/or debris. Remove any debris. If sprockets and belt guard are not damaged, proceed with the installation. 5. See Figure 1. Remove belt guard. 6. See Figure 2. Install feeder strip on emergency belt. Feed strip around transmission sprocket in a counterclockwise direction over frame cross support.

Harley-Davidson EMERGENCY DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT KIT Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-10-2010

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1. Shift transmission to neutral. Before installation of the emergency belt, to avoid personal injury and/or vehicle damage, secure the motorcycle. Both stand and motorcycle must be on solid, level ground. Failure to follow instructions could result in death or serious injury. 2. See Figure 1. Remove spring clip (4) (if present) and loosen rear axle nut (1). 3. Loosen rear axle adjuster (3) (or adjuster nut, if so equipped) on each side of motorcycle, and move rear wheel to full forward position. 4. Remove the damaged/broken belt. 5. Inspect sprockets and belt guard (2) for damage and/or debris. Remove any debris. If sprockets and belt guard are not damaged, proceed with the installation. 6. Remove belt guard. 40171-97,40146-00 1 WARNING i06186 Figure 1. Axle 1. Axle nut 2. Belt guard 3. Adjuster 4. Spring clip 2 4 1 3 7. See Figure 2. Install feeder strip on emergency belt. 8. Feed strip around transmission sprocket in a counterclockwise direction over frame cross support. 9. See Figure 3. Interlock the “v” ends of the emergency belt. a. Insert a hex socket key in the fourth (4) and ninth (6) tooth holes. b. Place the splice block (2) over the seventh (5) tooth hole. c. Install a socket head set screw (3) in the seventh tooth. Tighten using another hex socket key. d. Move the block to the next tooth, and repeat installation steps (b) and (c) in each tooth until all 12 screws are installed. NOTE There are 16 screws included in this kit. However, only 12 screws will actually be installed in the belt. The remaining four screws are spares. 10. See Figure 4. Grasp the emergency belt at the mid point of the lower run between your thumb and forefinger and lift the belt up to take up any slack in the belt. Measure the distance that the belt deflects (2) under tension (1). When two pounds of tension is applied to the lower run of the emergency belt, the belt deflection should be within the following measurements

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Harley-Davidson CHAIN DRIVE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-04-2012

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1) Assemble & install the chain tensioner assembly over the primary chain as shown in figure 1. 2) Install the compensator sprocket with extender & spacer (numbers 5, 6, & 7, FIG 2)(#7 is not included in this kit), primary chain, chain tensioner, and clutch basket simultaneously onto the motor drive shaft & transmission main shaft. Rotate the chain drive slightly as needed to allow the splines to line-up. 3) Install the chain tensioner nut loosely on the chain tensioner bolt. 4) Install the sliding cam onto the compensator sprocket, & slide the compensating sprocket cover-assembly (#3) over the cam. 5) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “Red” thread-lock on the threads of the motor drive shaft, & install the motor nut loosely with the fingers at this time. The hex spacer (#7) and spacer (#2) as seen in fig.2 are not provided in Rivera Engineering’s chain drive kit. These components are required with some applications, and can be purchased from your local Harley-Davidson dealer. FIG 2 6) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “red” thread-lock on the threads of the transmission main-shaft and loosely install the clutch hub nut (left hand threads). 7) Place the HD “Primary Drive Locking Tool” HD-41214 on the primary chain as shown in figure XXX and tighten the motor sprocket nut to 150-165 foot-pounds. 8)Turn the locking tool 180 degrees and move it to the clutch sprocket. Tighten the clutch hub nut to 70-80 foot pounds (left- hand thread). Adjust chain tension so that the top strand has 5/8″- to-7/8″ of up and down play (cold drive train). Tighten the center bolt nut to 21-29 foot pounds of torque.

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1987 to Current Harley Davidson Softail (FLST Only) Motorcycle Trike Conversion removal and Installation Guide

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-11-2010

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Removal of Original Parts Secure and raise motorcycle 9 to 10 inches using a quality motorcycle lift. Remove the following from the vehicle. See OEM manual for detailed instructions. Items to be retained for reinstallation after modification are noted. • Seat (to be re-installed without modification). • Left and right saddle bags (if so equipped). • Left and right rear crash bars, saddlebag rails (if so equipped). • Left and right passenger foot rests (to be re-installed without modification) • Complete exhaust system (to be replaced with new system). • Rear wheel NOTE: Prior to removing rear wheel, depress foot brake and secure in down position (e.g., zip-tie to floor board). This will prevent fluid flow when rear brake caliper is removed • Remove Rear Caliper (disconnect brake line at caliper) NOTE: Cap line to prevent introduction of dust / debris into line. Remove caliper. • Rear Drive Pulley (1987-99 models to be re-installed without modification). • Rear Fender (2000 and newer models, fender mount plates to be reused). • Swing Arm NSTALLING TRIKE CONVERSION KIT 3.1 Sprockets and Drive Belts Specifications See following table for belt installation (1987-99 will use a 4 tooth longer belt) Note : See OEM manual for belt replacement procedure. Year Drive Sprocket OEM Belt New Belt / Sprocket 1987-92 70 T 132 T 136 1993-94 61 T 128 T 132 1995-99 65 T 130 T 136/70TOEM 2000-06 Champion Sprocket, 70 T 135 T Use OEM 2007 Up Champion Sprocket, 66 T Use OEM 3.2 Install Swing Arm É Noting size and location of bolts, remove Cross Assembly from Champion Swing Arm. Do not discard hardware. Figure 1 3.2.1 1987-99 Model Years • Remove bearings from OEM Swing Arm using OEM shop tools and hydraulic press. Note : Although original bearings can be re-used, it is HIGHLY recommended that NEW bearings be installed to Champion Swing Arm a. b. Press bearings into Champion Swing Arm in the same way as the OEM Swing Arm. Using OEM Spacer Tube and supplied washers (four ¾” flat washers), install Champion Swing Arm using OEM bolt, outside washers and nut. Do not torque pivot bolt nut at this time. Figure 2 Note : Insure belt path is over and under Swing Arm pivot. c. d. Replace cross assembly and hardware (previously removed in step 3.2) to Champion Swing Arm. Note that the 2 upper left hand side bolts are countersunk. Torque pivot bolt to OEM specification

HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL CHROME LOWER BELT GUARD INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 13-04-2011

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REMOVING STOCK PLASTIC LOWER BELT GUARD 1. See Figure 1. Remove the hex head bolt (2), washer (3), acorn nut (5), hex head screw (4) and acorn bolt (8) attaching plastic belt guard to rear fork. 2. Remove the plastic belt guard. Save fasteners (2), and (4), washer (3), acorn nut (5) and acorn bolt (8) for installing new chrome belt guard. INSTALLING CHROME LOWER BELT GUARD 1. See Figure 2. Position the new chrome belt guard from kit over belt. Align the holes in guard with mounting lugs on rear fork. Install acorn bolt (9) through mounting lug and fasten to belt guard. Finger tighten only. 2. Install screw (4) with washer (5, from kit) through belt guard and fasten to threaded mounting lug. Position the guard for adequate clearance and finger tighten screw. 3. At the upper belt guard, install the original forward hex bolt (2) and original washer (3) through the upper guard (1), then through the upper hole in chrome belt guard and through mounting lug on rear fork. Secure with original acorn nut. 4. Tighten all hardware to 110 in-lbs (12.4 Nm)

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Harley-Davidson Softail Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-12-2010

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1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the fasteners that secure the seat. Remove seat. 6. Disconnect negative Battery Terminal. 7. Remove the Saddle Bags. And their hardware. If equipped. 8. Loosen Muffler Clamp on both Mufflers and other attaching hardware. Remove and discard both Mufflers. 9. Loosen the 4 exhaust stud nuts and save. Remove and discard head pipes and exhaust gaskets. 10. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness. 11. Remove any fasteners from Electrical Box. 12. Remove and discard Rear Fender, Fender Support and fasteners. NOTE: 2008-Current various models. Remove ECM from Fender and save nuts. 13. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 14. Un-clamp Rear Brake Line from the frame and Rear Fork. 15. Remove and discard both Banjo Bolts and Crush Washers from the Rear Brake Caliper and the Rear Brake Master Cylinder. 16. Remove Brake Light Switch from the Brake line, Save for reassembly. 17. Remove the Torx screw from the Brake Line bracket, Save the Torx screw for reassembly. 18. Remove and Discard Brake Line. 19. If Lower Controls option. Remove and Discard right and left floorboards/foot pegs, brake pedal, shifter, and shift linkage. Remove and Discard Passenger Foot pegs or Floorboards and their mounts. Then skip to step 24. 20. If Lower Controls Not purchased. Continue. 21. Remove acorn nut from Shift Linkage. 22. Remove 3 fasteners from Drivers Floorboard and remove. 23. Remove and discard Jiffy Stand. 24. Remove the Primary Cover by first removing the top and rear inspection cover screws. 25. Continue by removing remaining fasteners. 14 total. 26. Remove and discard Primary Cover Gasket. 27. Clean residual gasket material from both surfaces. 28. Loosen the Top Center Nut on the Primary Chain Adjuster. Lower the Primary Chain Adjuster until it rests flat on the Inner Primary Cover. 29. Remove the Clutch Lifter Retaining Ring from the Clutch Basket. Remove Clutch Lifter Assembly. 30. Using the Primary Drive Locking Tool. Loosen the Compensating Sprocket Nut. 31. Using the Primary Drive Locking Tool. Loosen the Clutch Hub Main shaft Nut. WARNING: This nut is LEFT HAND threaded. 32. Remove the Primary Drive Locking Tool, Compensating Sprocket Nut, and Clutch Hub Main shaft Nut. 33. Remove the Sprocket cover and Sliding Cam from the Crank Shaft Extension. 34. Remove the Clutch Assembly, Primary Chain, Compensating Sprocket, and Crank Shaft Extension in one assembly.

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BMW R850, R1100, R1150, R1200 Oilhead Maintenance Manual

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 16-11-2010

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cold Engine and Drivetrain Procedures Check Alternator Belt Tools Parts T-handle hex – 4mm none Note: In most cases the alternator belt does not need to be checked any more. Early models should have the pulley and belt upgrade that came out a few years ago. Current recommendations are that the belt is installed and adjusted, then not disturbed until 36K when replacement is specified. 1. Remove the four bolts holding the black plastic alternator belt cover at the front of the engine, 4mm T-handle hex. 2. Remove the cover by sliding it straight down. 3. Check the belt for cracks or shredding. 4. Check the belt tension, quite tight, ~1/4″ deflection when you press on the center. Note: Paul Glaves suggests that proper belt tension is when you can twist the belt ~90 degrees, midway between the pulleys. If you can twist it more than 90 degrees, it is too loose. If you cannot twist it 90 degrees, then it is too tight. 5. Leave the cover off for the valve adjustment procedure on the next page. Change Alternator Belt Tools Parts T-handle hex – 4mm alternator belt socket – 13mm ratchet wrench – 13mm torque wrench 1. Remove the four bolts holding the black plastic alternator belt cover at the front of the engine, 4mm T-handle hex. 2. Remove the cover by sliding it straight down. 3. Loosen the 2 nuts and 1 bolt, 13mm, that hold the alternator – one is on top and one is on each side, thus allowing the alternator to pivot down. 4. Remove the old belt. (Some bikes have a pipe that traps the belt – loosen it enough to get the old belt out and the new belt in) 5. Install the new belt being sure it is properly seated. 6. BMW calls for a tensioning torque of 5.9 ft.lb. (8 Nm) on the adjuster bolt on the left side of the bike. You have to get at this bolt from the alternator side and you may have to lift the tank. Alternatively, you can pry the alternator up with a large screwdriver to tension the belt. 7. Once the belt is under proper tension, tighten the 2 nuts and 1 bolt, 13mm, to 15 ft.lb. (20 Nm). 8. Check the belt for proper tension (see above) and proper seating alignment

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MOTORCYCLE ROLLER CHAIN Maintenance and Lubrication

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-11-2010

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Cleaning and Relubrication Perhaps the largest contributor to shortened chain life is inadequate lubrica- tion. All working parts of a chain should be lubricated uniformly. The use of the highest viscosity oil that allows for flow between the link plates and coats pin-bushing areas will normally provide the greatest wear resistance. Apply oil to the upper edges of link plates. This allows for the greatest access of oil to pin-bushing joints. For open drives, excess lubrication on outer chain surfaces should be removed, since it will either be thrown off during operation or serve to collect foreign materials. If foreign objects or surplus lubrication accumulates on chain surfaces to the extent of making re-lubrication of the joints impossible, the chain must be cleaned. Standard roller chains may be cleaned by washing in kerosene or any other good petroleum-based solvent. WARNING: These solvents are flammable. Agitate the chain to assure penetration of the solvent and a thorough flushing of the pin-bushing areas. Drain off excess solvent and inspect bushings and pins for wear. Replace the chain if wear is excessive or parts are fractured or missing. O-ring chains may be cleaned externallyby washing in kerosene. Do not use any other cleaning agent or the O-rings may be damaged. When cleaning O- ring chain, clean only the external areas of the chain. Do not attempt to force kerosene into the pin-bush cavity. Do not try to repair a worn-out chain by replacing individual links. The pitch of the new links will be shorter and will most likely result in chain fatigue failure and/or severe sprocket damage. For chains which are still usable, soak them in SAE 40 or 50 automotive engine oil (without additives). Flexing the chain in oil will assure greater penetration of lubricant. Inspect and clean sprockets. If sprockets are worn or damaged, they should be replaced.Installing new chain on worn out sprockets will significantly shorten the chain’s service life. WARNING: always wear eye protection when assembling or disassembling chain

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME UPPER BELT GUARD KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-02-2011

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INSTALLATION NOTE When performing the following step, it is not necessary to completely remove the shock mount bolt, back the bolt out only until it is flush with the swingarm. 1. See Figure 1. Loosen the left rear shock mount bolt (1) and back it out until the threaded portion of the bolt is flush with the swingarm. 1 2 is03762 1. Shock mounting bolt (left side) 2. Belt guard Figure 1. Loosen Shock Mounting Bolt 2. Pull the belt guard (2) straight back toward the rear of the bike to remove the guard from upper and lower grommets. See Figure 2. It may be necessary to work the guard up and down slightly to dislodge it from the upper (1) and lower (2) grommets. Remove the belt guard and discard. 2 1 3 is03763 1. Upper grommet mount 2. Lower grommet mount 3. Front belt cover Figure 2. Rubber Grommet Mount Locations 3. Obtain the chrome belt guard from kit. While making sure belt guard is over the belt, slide the guard straight in between the shock and sprocket and align cover just below front belt cover (3). The cutouts in the bracket should be lined up to engage with upper and lower grommets. NOTE When performing the following step, gently pull the guard in and out at the center; it should feel fairly tight even though the rear mounting bracket has not been secured. 4. See Figure 3. Firmly push the guard toward the front of the bike until the cutouts are secured by the grommets and the belt guard mounting bracket (1) hole lines up with the shock bolt

Daytona 675 Motorcycle Race Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Remove the existing cylinder head gasket in line with the procedures detailed in the Daytona 675 service manual. 2. Fit the chosen race kit cylinder head gasket following the procedures detailed in the Daytona 675 service manual. Caution The use of the following race kit cylinder head gaskets will require changes to the fuelling settings. To alter fuelling settings a third party programmable control unit will be required. Item Description Qty 1 Head gasket (t = 0.65mm) 1 1 Head gasket (t = 0.60mm) 1 1 * Page 7 of 29 © Triumph Designs Ltd 2007. Cams, Valve Spring & Sprocket Kits Parts Supplied Camshaft Inlet Kit – A9618055 Camshaft Exhaust Kit – A9618056 Valve Spring Kit – A9618058 Camshaft Sprocket Kit – A9618057 Warning The race kit must be fitted as a complete set. If it is not fitted as a complete set a failure may result which could cause loss of motorcycle control and an accident. Caution The use of the Camshaft, Valve spring & Sprocket race kits detailed below will require changes to the fuelling settings. To alter fuelling settings a third party programmable control unit will be required. 5 5 4 1 3 2 4 3 Item Description Qty 1 Cam assy, inlet, race 1 Item Description Qty 2 Cam assy, exhaust, race 1 Item Description Qty 3 Valve spring, 14.4id, race12 Item Description Qty 4 Sprocket, camshaft, 34T 2 5 Socket head cap screw, Encapsulated, M6x10 4
Page 8 of 29 © Triumph Designs Ltd 2007. NOTE •The standard inlet cam is 9.25mm max lift and 258.50o duration. The race kit inlet cam is 9.25mm max lift and 268.74o duration. •The standard exhaust cam is 8.5mm max lift and 246o duration. The race kit exhaust cam is 8.5mm max lift and 262.21o duration. •The race kit valve spring must be used in conjunction with the standard spring platforms and retainers. The fitted length of the race springs is the same as the standard spring. 1. The race kit valve springs should be assembled in the same manner as the standard valve springs. Follow the procedure detailed in section 3 of the Daytona 675 service manual. Ensure the springs are installed with the close wound, colour coded end of the springs facing downwards, towards the piston. 2. The race kit camshafts should be assembled in the same manner as the standard camshafts. Follow the procedure detailed in section 3 of the Daytona 675 service manual. 3. The race kit cam sprockets should be mounted and secured to the camshafts using the slotted holes in the sprocket. The slotted holes allow adjustment of the valve timing. The circular holes in the sprockets are for Triumph service tool T3880102 and should not be used to mount the sprockets to the camshafts. NOTE •No timing marks are included on the race sprockets. Race engines will typically have different depths skimmed off the cylinder head and, therefore require specific individual timing. 4. The camshafts should be timed using cam degreeing equipment which typically consists of a degree wheel, pointer, dial indicator and piston stop. Optimum cam timing will depend on the exact specification of the engine, but a recommended starting point is 104o IMOP (Inlet Maximum Opening Point) and 104o EMOP (Exhaust Maximum Opening Point). 5. Always check the inlet and exhaust piston to valve clearance for the timing selected to use, before running the engine. You must ensure both clearances are adequate. As a guide, the standard nominal piston to valve clearance is 1.3mm inlet & 1.5mm exhaust

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