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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME INNER PRIMARY HOUSING INSTALLATION INSTRUCTION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Kit Contents Table 1. Kit Contents Part Number Description (Quantity) Not sold separately Chrome Inner Primary Housing 786A Sealing fastener (5) INSTALLATION NOTES Whenever the sealing fasteners are loosened or removed, they must be replaced. Always replace using Harley-Davidson® Original Equipment sealing fasteners part 786A. Do not use part 786. The primary housing included in this kit installs in the same manner as the stock inner primary housing with the following exception: Use the five sealing fasteners included with this kit. Install and tighten fasteners to the torque specified below. For 2006 Dyna model motorcycles: Remove dowel pins from the chrome inner primary housing before attempting installation. Using a pair of pliers or vice grips, remove the dowel pins by carefully twisting and pulling on the pins. Be careful not to scratch or mar the chrome or sealing surfaces of the chrome inner primary housing. Remove the chain tensioner anchor plate, bolt and screws from the stock inner primary housing after it has been removed, then install it on the chrome inner primary housing. See the appropriate Service Manual for the proper tightening procedure, and torque specifications. 1. See the Drive section of the appropriate Service Manual, and remove the stock inner primary housing. Clean the internal threads in the crankcase and transmission case where the sealing fasteners were removed using a wire brush. Install the chrome inner primary housing as indicated below. Replace the five stock sealing fasteners with the five bolts included in this kit. Put a light coat of primary oil under the head of the sealing fasteners and then tighten to 23-25 ft- lbs (31-34 Nm)

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2008 FLT Police Models Service Manual Supplement

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-11-2010

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ITEM SERVICED 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm) Drain plug torque Engine oil and filter 4 qt. (3.8 L) Oil capacity Hand tighten 1/2-3/4 turn after gasket contact Filter 63798-99A Chrome filter part number 63731-99A Black filter part number FORMULA+ TRANSMISSION AND PRIMARY CHAIN LUBRICATION (Part No. 99851-05) Lubricant type and capacity Primary chain lubricant Wet: 38 oz. (1124 ml) Dry: 45 oz. (1331 ml) 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm) Primary chaincase drain plug torque 1/2-1 turn Adjuster screw free play Clutch adjustment 72-120 in-lbs (8.1-13.6 Nm) Adjuster screw locknut torque 1/16-1/8 in. (1.6-3.2 mm) Free play at hand lever 84-108 in-lbs (9.5-12.2 Nm) Clutch inspection cover torque Dipstick at FULL with motorcycle on jiffy stand and filler plug resting on threads. Lubricant level Transmission lubricant FORMULA+ TRANSMISSION AND PRIMARY CHAIN LUBRICATION (Part No. 99851-05) Lubricant type and capacity 32 oz (0.95 liters) 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm) Transmission drain plug torque 25-75 in-lbs (2.8-8.5 Nm) Transmission filler plug/dipstick torque Front: 36 psi (248 kPA) Pressure: solo rider Tire pressure and wear Rear: 36-40 psi (248-276 kPA) Replace if less than 1/32 in. (0.8 mm) of tread pattern Wear 55 in-lbs (6.2 Nm) minimum Spoke nipple torque Wheel spokes 99953-99A (12 oz.) D.O.T. 4 hydraulic brake fluid part number Brake fluid level Front: 0.20 in. (5.0 mm) Fluid level (from top of master cylinder reservoir) Rear: 0.26 in. (6.5 mm) Front: 7-10 in-lbs (0.8-1.1 Nm) Master cylinder reservoir cover screw torque Rear: 12-15 in-lbs (1.4-1.7 Nm) 0.016 in. (0.4 mm) Minimum brake pad thickness Brake pads and discs 75-102 in-lbs (8.5.-11.5 Nm) Brake caliper pad pin torque Front: 0.18 in. (4.5 mm) Minimum brake disc thickness Rear: 0.25 in. (6.3 mm) 0.008 in. (0.2 mm) Maximum brake disc lateral runout (warpage) 10 lb. (4.5 kg) Upward force applied at midpoint of bottom belt strand Drive belt deflection 3/8-7/16 in. (9.5-11.1 mm) FLHTP 1/4-5/16 in. (6.4-7.9 mm) FLHP/FLHPE 40-60 in-lbs (4.5-6.8 Nm) Air cleaner cover bracket screw torque Air cleaner 36-60 in-lbs (4.1-6.8 Nm) Air cleaner cover screw torque LOCTITE MEDIUM STRENGTH THREADLOCKER 243 (BLUE) Air cleaner cover screw Threadlocker Part No. 99642-97 (6 ml) LUBIT-8 SUPER OIL, Part No. 94968-85TV (1/4 fl. oz.) Lubricant part number Clutch cable 35-45 in-lbs (4.0-5.1 Nm) Handlebar switch housing screw torque

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME INNER PRIMARY COVERS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1 2 3 is06139 Figure 1. Remove Three Original Equipment Screws As Shown 1. See Figure 1. Remove the stock fasteners as shown in Figure 1. Save screw (3) for reuse. 2. Install the stock fastener in the rear inner cover. Place a locating washer over the fastener with the rounded side facing toward the hole in the primary chain case. 3. Slide the rear inner cover into place and loosely secure it with the stock fastener. 1 is06416 1. Acorn nut Figure 2. Fasten Front And Rear Inner Primary Covers Together 4. See Figure 2. Position the front inner cover over the rear inner cover and make sure that the hole in the front cover fits over the threaded stud in the rear cover. Secure the covers together with the acorn nut installed finger tight. 5. See Figure 3 and Table 1. Place the new 4.25 inch (5) and 1-1/2 inch (4) screws in the front inner primary cover. Place locating washers (6) over the fasteners with the rounded side of the washer facing toward the hole in the primary chain case. 6. Tighten all three screws to 108-120 in-lbs (12.2-13.6 Nm) . 7. Tighten the acorn nut. 8. Push the Allen hole plugs (7) into the four exposed screw heads

2008 Honda CBR1000RR Clutch Inner Installation PROCEDURE

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 23-04-2011

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Refer to the 2008 CBR1000RR Service Manual for specific removal instructions. While completing this procedure, be careful not to damage the covers, cowls, or any other components. 1. Remove the air intake cover (page 3-8). 2. Remove the upper inner cover (page 3-9). 3. Remove the lower cowl (page 3-9). 4. Remove the right middle cowl (page 3-10). 5. Remove the right crankcase cover (page 10-5). Clutch Removal (page 10-7) 6. Remove the starter idle gear and shaft. 7. Remove the snap ring and stopper ring. 8. Remove the clutch lifter piece and plate. 9. Unstake the clutch center lock nut. Be careful not to damage the mainshaft threads. 10. Hold the pressure plate with the special tool. You must use the special tool (Clutch Holder, T/N 070MB-MFLA100) when removing the lock nut. Using an impact wrench will damage the main shaft threads. Clutch Holder: 070MB-MFLA100 (autoshipped in May 2008) 11. Remove the clutch center lock nut and washer and discard the lock nut as shown on top of page 3 12. Remove the clutch spring holder, spring seat, and two clutch springs. 13. Remove the spring seat. 14. Remove the following: • Pressure plate
• Spring seat • Judder spring • Clutch disc A • Clutch plate A • Seven clutch discs B • Clutch disc C  Clutch center NOTE: Do not remove the clutch outer. New Clutch Installation (page 10-20) NOTE: The new clutch disc assembly has a dif- ferent order of plates than the illustration shown in the Service Manual. Keep note of this when repairing updated units.
15. Install the new clutch disc assembly with- out removing the setting bolts. Rotate the main shaft to align the clutch disc assem- bly with the main shaft spline. 16. Slightly loosen the setting bolts. 17. Rotate clutch disc C to align its tabs into clutch outer shallow slots, then fully install the clutch disc assembly. 18. Remove and discard the setting bolts. 19. Install the spring seat

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How to Replacing Rear Main Seal 1

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

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The next day I woke up early and drank lots of coffee before going out to the garage. I knew I had two distinct problems confronting me. First, I would have to purchase an impact tool in order to loosen the six bolts holding the clutch together. Also, I would have to purchase at least three 8mm by 50mm bolts and nuts in order to prevent the clutch from exploding when the six bolts were unscrewed. For the third time in two days, I went to Sears and asked the salesman, (who I now I knew as Art,) where I could find an impact tool. He did not know what it was I was looking for, but he asked another employee and soon I had the tool as well as a 6mm Allen socket. Unfortunately, the Allen socket only came in 3/8″ drive, and the impact tool only came in 1/2″ drive. Thinking quickly, I purchased a 1/2″ to 3/8″ adapter, as well as a 3lb. dead- blow hammer. On the way home, I stopped at a Chief Auto Parts to buy the bolts I would need. The closest size they had were 8mm by 40mm, which was nearly 10mm too short. I was unsure whether the clutch cover bolts were coarse thread or fine thread, so I bought three of each, along with corresponding nuts. Finally, around 11 o’clock in the morning, I was back at the garage ready to work. I prepared the impact tool and placed the adapter and the Allen socket on it. I began to hammer on the end of the tool, trying to loosen each of the six bolts. None of them seemed to move, even though it seemed the impact tool was turning. Finally, I put the Allen socket on the breaker bar and found that all of the bolts had actually come loose. The tension from the clutch spring made it nearly impossible to see, however. I removed three of the bolts in a triangular pattern. Into these empty holes I threaded the fine- thread 40mm bolts with nuts attached and tightened them evenly. I was now able to remove the remaining Allen bolts. By slowly turning and loosening the nuts evenly on the 40mm bolts, I relieved the pressure from the clutch spring until the cover plate was free. I removed the cover plate, the clutch, the pressure plate, and finally the clutch spring. I had already marked each of the elements with Whiteout to insure that they would fit together the same way on installation. Apparently, this is essential as the flywheel could be rendered out-of-balance if the clutch components are not installed correctly. The flywheel itself was now exposed. I could see the five bolts that attached it to the crankshaft. I now used a tool I had fabricated. Although the manual describes two possible tools that can be fabricated, I found a piece of metal that resembled the tool and decided to use it. Unfortunately it was not strong enough and broke. I turned and looked at my workbench, and noticed a bracket which I had previously fabricated for mounting a mirror on my Vespa. The piece of steel was extremely strong and was already pre-drilled with correct-sized holes. It fit perfectly, so I placed it over the exposed bolt which protruded from the case, and placed the other end on one of the 40mm bolts, which I then bolted into the flywheel itself. I used the breaker bar again and removed the five bolts. The flywheel came loose after inserting two more 40mm bolts and tugging on them evenly

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2003 – 2008 4Runner AND 2007 – 2008 FJ Cruiser FRONT AND REAR DIFFERENTIAL GEAR OIL SPECIFICATION CHANGE

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 14-11-2011

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75W-85 GL5 synthetic gear oil beginning with the 2008 model year. This new synthetic gear oil is compatible with 2003 – 2007 model year 4Runner and 2007 model year FJ Cruiser differentials. Please refer to the Parts Information section below for information about this gear oil and use this gear oil (or equivalent) when filling front or rear differentials with oil. 2003 – 2008 model year 4Runner vehicles. 2007 – 2008 model year FJ Cruiser vehicles. PREVIOUS PART NUMBER CURRENT PART NUMBER PART NAME TYPE QTY N/A 08885-02606 Toyota Genuine Differential Gear Oil LX 75W-85 API GL-5 SAE 75W-85 LSD As Needed N/A 08885-02506 Toyota Genuine Differential Gear Oil LT 75W-85 API GL-5 SAE 75W-85 w/o LSD As Needed Refer to the diagram below to identify if LSD or non-LSD gear oil is used on the vehicle. For applicable vehicles, there is a caution label above the filler plug, as shown below

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Harley-Davidson Softail Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-12-2010

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1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the fasteners that secure the seat. Remove seat. 6. Disconnect negative Battery Terminal. 7. Remove the Saddle Bags. And their hardware. If equipped. 8. Loosen Muffler Clamp on both Mufflers and other attaching hardware. Remove and discard both Mufflers. 9. Loosen the 4 exhaust stud nuts and save. Remove and discard head pipes and exhaust gaskets. 10. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness. 11. Remove any fasteners from Electrical Box. 12. Remove and discard Rear Fender, Fender Support and fasteners. NOTE: 2008-Current various models. Remove ECM from Fender and save nuts. 13. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 14. Un-clamp Rear Brake Line from the frame and Rear Fork. 15. Remove and discard both Banjo Bolts and Crush Washers from the Rear Brake Caliper and the Rear Brake Master Cylinder. 16. Remove Brake Light Switch from the Brake line, Save for reassembly. 17. Remove the Torx screw from the Brake Line bracket, Save the Torx screw for reassembly. 18. Remove and Discard Brake Line. 19. If Lower Controls option. Remove and Discard right and left floorboards/foot pegs, brake pedal, shifter, and shift linkage. Remove and Discard Passenger Foot pegs or Floorboards and their mounts. Then skip to step 24. 20. If Lower Controls Not purchased. Continue. 21. Remove acorn nut from Shift Linkage. 22. Remove 3 fasteners from Drivers Floorboard and remove. 23. Remove and discard Jiffy Stand. 24. Remove the Primary Cover by first removing the top and rear inspection cover screws. 25. Continue by removing remaining fasteners. 14 total. 26. Remove and discard Primary Cover Gasket. 27. Clean residual gasket material from both surfaces. 28. Loosen the Top Center Nut on the Primary Chain Adjuster. Lower the Primary Chain Adjuster until it rests flat on the Inner Primary Cover. 29. Remove the Clutch Lifter Retaining Ring from the Clutch Basket. Remove Clutch Lifter Assembly. 30. Using the Primary Drive Locking Tool. Loosen the Compensating Sprocket Nut. 31. Using the Primary Drive Locking Tool. Loosen the Clutch Hub Main shaft Nut. WARNING: This nut is LEFT HAND threaded. 32. Remove the Primary Drive Locking Tool, Compensating Sprocket Nut, and Clutch Hub Main shaft Nut. 33. Remove the Sprocket cover and Sliding Cam from the Crank Shaft Extension. 34. Remove the Clutch Assembly, Primary Chain, Compensating Sprocket, and Crank Shaft Extension in one assembly.

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2008 CBR1000RR replace the clutch inner

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 06-11-2011

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Clamping Centerstand to Frame. Notice the centerstand is shipped with (2) white plastic washers. Note: See photo #2-A These are in place to overcome the spring tension or lock the stand in place and allow you to pivot the lower stand down partially to make installation easier. Pivot the upper stand about half way from the retracted to the extended (down) position. Note: This will require some force. If the stand will not stay in the position you can further tighten the two 9/16” pivot nuts. Remove the bolts from the four band clamps. Wrap the (2) small clamps around the small upper frame tube and start the bolts so that the bolt will be at the bottom of the tube and the wrench head facing towards the rear of the motorcycle. Note: See photo #2. Center the stand on the frame from side to side so as to gain even clearance between the feet on the centerstand and the rear tire when the stand is in the retracted position. Holding the larger cradle up against the frame, tighten the (2) small clamps enough to hold the centerstand in place. Install one of the large clamps as shown in photo #3-A. Install the 2 nd large clamp as shown in photo #2-C. Again retract the stand and check that the feet have even amounts of space from the side of the rear tire. Tighten the flour clamps securely 5-7 ft. lbs. Next remove the (2) 9/16” pivot nuts and the white plastic washers as shown in photo #2-A. Re-install and tighten the 9/16” pivot nuts securely 8-12 ft lbs. With the stand in the retracted position-adjust the stop bolt and lock nut, see photo #3-B, so that the stand is parallel with the ground and does not come incontact with any parts of the motorcycle

2001-2008 Suzuki V-Strom DL650 And DL1000 Adapter Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 15-02-2012

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Adapter Parts List Item Desc. Quantity A. Front Adapter 1 B. Rear Adapter 1 C. Frame Grabber, Front 2 D. Frame Grabber 1 E. 5/16 x ½” Button Head Screws 4 F. M8 x 50mm Bolts 2 G. Washers (Not shown) 6 2. Assembly Instructions Familiarize yourself with all of the parts in the Main Arm and Motorcycle Adapter assemblies. Follow these installation instructions FIRST . The following instructions include our recommended torque values for all fasteners used to assemble the Johnny Rack™. Do not exceed those torque values when installing the rack, otherwise damage to the Main Arm may occur. When stock mounting points are used to mount the rack to the motorcycle, refer to the motorcycle user’s manual for recommended torque values. 1. Remove the seat, the rubber rack cover on the rear rack or if you have a Givi Top Case mounting plate remove it too. Remove the 4 bolts shown (A and B). 2. Align front frame grabbers over front grab bar mounting holes (A). 3. Reinstall original bolts that you removed. Torque to 150in.lbs. 4. Place rear frame grabber over holes on rear rack (B). 5. If you do not have side luggage racks installed on the motorcycle, you will need to place 3 stacked washers (3/4 ” OD) over each hole and under the frame grabber to take up the extra space.

HARLEY DAVIDSON HYBRID CAM PLATE AND HIGH FLOW OIL PUMP KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-02-2011

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REMOVAL To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect battery cables (negative (-) cable first) before proceeding. (00307a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Refer to the service manual and follow the instructions to remove the seat and disconnect the battery cables, negative (-) cable first. Retain all seat mounting hardware. Gasoline can drain from the carburetor fuel line when disconnected from fuel valve fitting. Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive, which could result in death or serious injury. Wipe up spilled fuel immediately and dispose of rags in a suitable manner. (00256a) NOTES Installing this kit requires removal and installation of the cam support plate. Refer to the service manual for instructions with the following exception pertaining to cam compartment compo- nents: The crank and primary cam sprocket flange bolts are specially hardened, and the flat washers are of a special diameter and have ground surfaces. Use ONLY the parts provided in the Drive Gear Retention Kit (H-D Part Number 25533-99A, sold separately) when installing this kit. -J04804 1 of 7
The cr ank sprocket flange bolts and pr imary cam sproc ket flange bolts ARE NOT interchangeable. 2. Refer to the service manual to remove and discard the crank sprocket flange bolts and primary cam sprocket flange bolts and washers. 3. For 1999 models only: Refer to the service manual to remove and discard the currently installed cam drive sprocket. 4. Refer to the service manual to remove and disassemble the cams from the support plate and oil pump. Discard the support plate and oil pump. 5. For 1999 – 2000 Dyna, 2000 Softail, 1999 – 2000 Touring, and 2001 EFI Touring models only: Inspect the cams, chain, sprockets and chain tensioners for wear, and replace as needed. Refer to the service manual for inspection and replacement procedures. For 2001 – 2005 Dyna, 2001 – 2006 Softail, 2002 – 2006 Touring, and 2001 carbureted Touring models only: Inspect the cams and secondary cam chain for wear, and replace as needed. Refer to the service manual for inspection and replacement procedures. The primary cam chain, primary sprockets and both tensioners will be replaced by new components from the kit. For ALL models and years: Discard the guide, as it will not be used. INSTALLATION 1. ALL models: See Figure 1. Obtain the new Rear Cam Roller Bearing Kit (H-D Part Number 8983) from inside the Cam Service Kit (H-D Part Number 17045-99C, purchased separately), and install as indicated in Step 2. NOTE See Figure 2. If not enough of the splined shaft is exposed to install the sprocket, omit the spacer (4) and proceed to Step 2e. When the bearing inner race is started onto the machined area, remove the flange bolt (5), flat washer (6) and sprocket, then assemble using the spacer (4). Repeat Step 2e to fully install bearing inner race. To center thrust washer, be sure o-ring is installed in relief groove. Damage to bearing cage and engine can occur if thrust washer is not centered. (00473b) 2. See Figure 1. Install the O-ring (5), thrust washer (4) and bearing inner race (3) onto the rear camshaft as follows: a. See Figure 2. To properly locate the thrust washer (2), install the O-ring (3) in the grinding relief groove on the splined end of the rear camshaft between the machined area and the secondary cam sprocket.

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