Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011
System Function Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool (FI Tool) is developed to modify the mapping of the racing machine to gain operating conditions suitable for the course and the rider’s skill. The following are the available setting functions. Table 1 FI Tool Function Model Name Functions Available Setting Range ’04 ZX-10R ’05 ZX-6RR ’05 ZX-10R ’06 ZX-10R ’07 ZX-6R 1) Adjust the injected fuel rate at acceleration -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 2) Adjust the injected fuel rate of No.1 and No.4 cylinder -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 3) Adjust the injected fuel rate of No.2 and No.3 cylinder -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 4) Adjust the injected fuel rate of primary and secondary injector * -30 % ~ +30 % -10 % ~ +10 % — – — 〇 — – — – — 〇 5) Adjust the ignition timing -15°CA~ +5°CA 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 6) Adjust the sub-throttle opening angle -50 % ~ +50 % -45 % ~ +45 % 〇 — – 〇 〇 — 〇 — – 〇 7) Adjust the exhaust device opening angle -50 % ~ +50 % 〇 — 〇 〇 — 8) Adjust the all injected fuel rates of all cylinders and operating are a simultaneously -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 9) Adjust the value of engine over revolution limiter 0 ~ +300 rpm -1000 ~ +700rpm -1000 ~+1200rpm — – — 〇 — – — 〇 — – — 〇 〇 — – 10) Set the fuel cut or not at deceleration Use or Not Use 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 11) Set the sub throttle controlled or not Controlled or Full Open Fixed 〇 — – — – 12) Set the exhaust device controlled or not Controlled or Full Open Fixed 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 13) Set the Auto Shifter Ignition Cut Length Controlled or not, set Ig. Cut Time by gear range — – 〇 〇 〇 14) Set the Pit Road RPM Limit Controlled or not, set Upper Limit RPM by gear range
Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 04-05-2012
Front Lift Installation 1. Ensuring that the parking brake is set, place jack under center of the Mule front end and lift until front wheels clear the ground. Be careful to support Mule properly so that it is secure, but so that the A-arms and struts can droop to full extension. 2. Remove front wheels. 3. If applicable, remove the heater to allow access to the strut mount behind the heater coil. Heater 4. Starting with the left side (driver side), remove the cotter pin and castle nut that secures the strut to the strut mount. Castle Nut & Pen 5. Push bolt through the bolthole, taking care not to damage the brake line that is attached to the bolt. If you are having difficulty removing the bolt, you may have to remove the brake lines that are attached to the front brakes. In this case refer to owners manual for removing brake lines. Screwdriver NOTE: Keep in mind that if you remove the brake lines you must bleed your brakes according to operator’s manual. 6. Once the bottom of the strut has been loosened, then unbolt the top of the strut. The nuts securing the top strut can be located in the dash of the Mule on the left and right sides. In most cases these nuts are easily accessible, but you may have to remove the glove box or heater coils, depending on the model and options purchased with the Mule.
Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010
Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14.. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust. We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines. Bolt-On style bolts to the O. E. M. mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News http://northdenvernews.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo
Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010
Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.
Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 11-11-2010
1. Make sure the ignition timing is correct 2. Adjust the valves as necessary to ensure proper operation 3. Run the engine to warm it up a bit 4. Adjust the float setting. To do this, remove the carburetors (leave the throttle cables attached), remove the bowl and turn the carburetor upside down (fuel will spill). The float should look like this: Adjust as necessary by bending the float support (#37 in Figure 1). Reinstall Installation and idle adjustment 1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns. * Starting using the K68′s (cold weather) 1. Verify fuel flow. Apply choke (pull 52 in Fig1). 2. Using the ticklers (13) allow fuel to enter the bowl until fuel drains from (14) 3. With the ignition off, kick 1 or 2 times 4. Turn ignition on, and as soon as engine is warmed up (maybe sooner) push choke mechanisms to open choke Idle Adjustment (engine running and warm) 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.