2011 harley evo engine case split

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Harley-Davidson Camshaft TC, EVO, Shovelhead, XL EVO, Iron Head, XR Specifications

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-11-2010

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EVO Black Widow PP8833-2 – 29 55 62 25 264 267 54 103 109 105.8 0.600 0.602 EVO Black Widow PP8826-2 – 27 61 63 29 268 272 56 107 107 107.0 0.602 0.602 EVO Black Widow PP8817-2 – 254 254 0.590 0.590 EVO Carl’s Speed Shop CM4 – 28 44 52 20 252 252 48 98 106 102.0 0.495 0.495 EVO Carl’s Speed Shop CM495F Y 19 47 50 16 246 246 35 104 107 105.5 0.495 0.495 0.179 0.168 EVO Carl’s Speed Shop CM580 – 19 47 50 16 246 246 35 104 107 105.5 0.580 0.580 0.194 0.163 EVO Carl’s Speed Shop CM612 – 36 60 68 28 276 276 64 102 110 106.0 0.612 0.612 0.277 0.235 88 EVO Carl’s Speed Shop CM660 – 38 62 68 28 280 276 66 102 110 106.0 0.660 0.660 0.314 0.277 90 EVO Carl’s Speed Shop CM774 – 284 284 0.784 0.784 0.277 0.236 EVO Carl’s Speed Shop CM780F – 34 70 74 30 284 284 64 108 112 110.0 0.774 0.774 103 EVO Crane EVR0020 – 31 64.5 77 23 275 280 54 107 117 112.0 0.608 0.589 88 EVO Crane Fireball 2000 Y -12 22 20 -10 190 190 -22 107 105 106.0 0.490 0.490 0.026 0.032 EVO Crane Fireball 300 Y 12 34 41 15 226 236 27 101 103 102.0 0.490 0.490 4000 EVO Crane Fireball 310 Y 16 40 43 19 236 242 35 102 102 102.0 0.490 0.490 1500 4500 75 EVO Crane Fireball 316 Y 19 43 48 24 242 252 43 102 102 102.0 0.490 0.490 2000 5000 80 EVO Crane Fireball 326 – 24 48 57 25 252 262 49 102 106 104.0 0.490 0.500 2500 5500 EVO Crane H286 Y 19 43 48 24 242 252 43 102 102 102.0 0.490 0.490 2000 5000 80 EVO Crane H290 – 17 43 45 23 240 248 40 103 101 102.0 0.581 0.581 1800 5200 EVO Crane H296 – 24 48 57 25 252 262 49 102 106 104.0 0.490 0.500 2500 5500 EVO Crane H304 – 24 50 55 25 254 260 49 103 105 104.0 0.600 0.600 2500 5800 EVO Crane H306 – 28 54 69 23 262 272 51 103 113 108.0 0.500 0.510 0.224 0.195 3000 6000 EVO Crane H310 – 23 63 68 28 266 276 51 110 110 110.0 0.550 0.550 0.229 0.229 3000 6500 88 EVO Crane H314 – 26 54 65 21 260 266 47 104 112 108.0 0.600 0.600 2800 6000 EVO Crane HEV0042 – 27 59 71 23 266 274 50 106 114 110.0 0.600 0.576 0.226 0.194 3000 6000 100 116 EVO Crane HEV0067 – 24 50 56 24 254 260 48 103 106 104.5 0.600 0.530 0.128 0.113 EVO Crane HEV0098 – 36 62 72 34 278 286 70 103 109 106.0 0.650 0.650 0.171 0.156 96 EVO CycleRama CR-E550 – 24 52 53 23 256 256 47 104 105 104.5 0.550 0.530 EVO CycleRama CR-E581 – 22 46 53 23 248 256 45 102 105 103.5 0.581 0.550 EVO CycleRama CR-E600A – 24 50 56 24 254 260 48 103 106 104.5 0.600 0.530 EVO CycleRama CR-E600B – 23 51 54 22 254 256 45 104 106 105.0 0.600 0.550 EVO CycleRama CR-E617 – 22 50 50 22 252 252 44 104 104 104.0 0.617 0.617 EVO CycleRama CR-E630 – 18 60 63 13 258 256 31 111 115 113.0 0.630 0.630 EVO CycleRama CR-E660 – 27 59 71 23 266 274 50 106 114 110.0 0.660 0.660 3500 6500 140 EVO Dave Mackie DM500 Y 22 38 52 12 240 244 34 98 110 104.0 0.500 0.500 0.189 0.138 EVO Dave Mackie DM500X Y 25 40 55 20 245 255 45 98 108 102.5 0.500 0.500 0.208 0.178 EVO Dave Mackie DM530 – 28 42 55 15 250 250 43 97 110 103.5 0.530 0.530 0.221 0.141 EVO Dave Mackie DM580 – 26 42 56 12 248 248 38 98 112 105.0 0.580 0.580 0.227 0.144 113 EVO Dave Mackie DM581 – 26 42 56 12 248 248 38 98 112 105.0 0.580 0.580 0.227 0.144 EVO Dave Mackie DM595 – 21 49 57 14 250 251 35 104 112 107.8 0.595 0.595 0.192 0.150 EVO Dave Mackie DM635 – 20 56 59 18 256 257 38 108 111 109.3 0.635 0.635 0.194 0.176 EVO Edlebrock 1740 Y 19 43 48 24 242 252 43 102 102 102.0 0.490 0.490 0.176 0.203 EVO Edlebrock 1741 – 20 46 52 22 246 254 42 103 105 104.0 0.600 0.600 0.183 0.187 EVO Head Quarters HQ-23 – 19 47 52 24 246 256 43 104 104 104.0 0.600 0.530 EVO Head Quarters HQ-24 Y 20 36 52 19 236 251 39 98 107 102.3 0.500 0.500 EVO Head Quarters HQ-25 – 18 38 42 14 236 236 32 100 104 102.0 0.550 0.550 EVO Head Quarters HQ-26 – 20 54 53 22 254 255 42 107 106 106.3 0.600 0.530 89 EVO Head Quarters HQ-27 – 26 60 70 24 266 274 50 107 113 110.0 0.650 0.575

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HARLEY DAVIDSON V-Series California Engine Owner's Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-11-2010

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During Break-In At 50 Miles (80 Kilometers): 1- Change engine oil and filter. 2- Inspect for fuel and oil leaks. 3- Inspect air cleaner element and service as required. 4- Check tightness of exterior fasteners, except head bolts. Engine Maintenance at 500 Miles (800 Kilometers): 1- Change engine oil and filter. 2- Inspect for fuel and oil leaks. 3- Inspect air cleaner element and service as required. 4- Check tightness of exterior fasteners, except head bolts. 5- Check operation of enrichment device and throttle controls. 6- Check engine idle speed. 7- Check tightness of engine mounts. Regular Service Intervals Regular lubrication and maintenance will help keep your new S&S engine operating at peak performance. The following table presents the required service schedule for normal operating conditions. Failure to complete the required engine maintenance can result in engine damage and an increase in emissions. Please refer to the motorcycle owner’s manual for any additional required chassis maintenance. Engine Service Intervals Item Interval Engine Oil & Filter Change at 50, 500, 2,500 miles (80, 800, 4,000 kilometers), every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers) thereafter1 Air Cleaner Element Inspect at 50 and 500 miles (80 and 800 kilometers), every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers) thereafter2 Tappet Oil Screen Inspect every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers). Replace every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers). Petcock, Lines, & Fittings, Vacuum Lines Inspect at 50 and 500 miles (80 and 800 kilometers), every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers) thereafter. Fuel Tank Filter Screen & In-Line Fuel Filter (If used) Inspect every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers). Engine Idle Speed Adjust as required. Operation of Throttle & Enrichment Device ControlsInspect at 500 miles (800 kilometers) and every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers) thereafter. Spark Plugs Inspect every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers). Replace every 10,000 miles (16,000 kilometers) or as needed. Ignition Timing Inspect every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers). Engine Mounts Inspect at 500 miles (800 kilometers) and every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers) thereafter. External Fasteners Except Engine Head Bolts Re-torque at 500 miles (800 kilometers) and every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers) thereafter. 1- S&S recommends that petroleum-based oil not specifically formulated for motorcycles should be changed every 1,000 miles (1,600 kilometers) after the break-in period. 2- Replace more frequently if required or if engine is operated in a dusty environment.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON BLACK ENGINE GUARD KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-02-2011

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REMOVAL NOTE This Instruction Sheet covers several different Harley-Davidson models and years. Be sure to locate and follow the procedures that apply to the motorcycle receiving the new guard. For Models without Lower Fairings 1. Proceed to For All Models section. For Model FLHTCUI (Ultra Classic Electra Glide) with Factory-Installed Lower Fairings 1. Remove the lower fairings following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 2. When the lower fairings have been removed, proceed to For All Models section. For Models FLHR/I (Road King), FLHT (Electra Glide Standard) or FLHTC/I (Electra Glide Classic) with Harley-Davidson Genuine Motor Accessory Lower Fairings 1. See Figure 1. Remove the two black screws (1) that attach the fairing cap (2) to the lower fairing (5). Remove the cap. Set the parts aside for re-installation. 2. Remove the screw (7), rubber washer (8) and locknut (10) and the clamp (9) that attaches the bottom of the lower fairing to the engine guard and set aside. 3. Remove the two locknuts (3), U-bolt (6) and U-bolt retainer (4). 4. Remove the lower fairing by sliding it out from behind the engine guard. 5. Repeat Steps 1 through 4 for the opposite side. 6. Proceed to For All Models section. For Model FLTR/I (Road Glide) with Harley-Davidson Genuine Motor Accessory Lower Fairings Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Disconnect the battery, negative (-) battery cable first, following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 2. Remove the seat following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 3. Remove the cable strap holding the clutch cable to the engine guard. 4. See Figure 2. Remove the TORX screw (8), rubber washer (9) and locknut (11) and the clamp (10) that attaches the bottom of the lower fairing (4) to the engine guard and set aside INSTALLATION 1. Hold the engine guard in position, and loosely fasten the top of the guard with the new hex socket screw and flat washer from the kit. 2. Install the bottom brackets to the motorcycle frame with the two new TORX screws and locknuts. 3. Tighten all three screws to 15-20 ft-lbs (20.3-27.1 Nm) . For Model FLHTCUI (Ultra Classic Electra Glide) with Factory-Installed Lower Fairings 1. Install the lower fairings following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. For Models FLHR/I (Road King), FLHT (Electra Glide Standard) or FLHTC/I (Electra Glide Classic) with Harley- Davidson Genuine Motor Accessory Lower Fairings 1. Carefully place one lower fairing in position from behind the engine guard. 2. See Figure 1. Install the lower fairing to the top of the new engine guard with the U-bolt (6) from the back, through the holes at the top of the fairing. Install the retainer (4) in position on the U-bolt and secure to the engine guard with the two locknuts (3). Do not tighten the locknuts at this time. 3. Attach the bottom of the fairing to the engine guard with the clamp (9) removed earlier. Install the clamp around the engine guard in the direction shown, with the tabs toward the rear of the vehicle and the flat side of the clamp against the lower fairing. Insert the screw (7) through the lower fairing, rubber washer (8) and clamp (9). Secure the assembly with the locknut (10). Tighten to 12 ft-lbs (16.3 Nm) .

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Sherco Engine Engine Removal and Case Splitting Manual

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Filed Under (Sherco) by admin on 20-04-2011

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Engine Removal and Case Splitting Preparation 1. Wash the bike and engine thoroughly. 2. Drain transmission oil by removing drain bolt and copper washer with 5mm Allen. 3. Drain coolant by removing 3 bolts of water pump cover and lifting off engine side case.4. Remove: a. rear fender- two bolts plus one long with washer using 4mm Allen b. fuel tank hose from petcock c. fuel tank- one short bolt and washer using 4mm Allen d. chain master link and chain from front sprocket e. kick starter- one large button head bolt and washer f. rear brake- one bolt/washer using 13mm wrench g. rear brake master cylinder- 2 button head bolts h. gear shifter- one bolt i. flywheel cover – 3 bolts j. clutch slave cylinder- two button head bolts using 4mm Allen k. clutch actuating rod by pulling it out of the case l. airbox three 4mm Allen bolts and loosening Phillips head carb hose clamp m. carburetor cap/slide assembly n. carburetor by loosening Phillips head manifold hose clamp o. spark plug cap p. spark plug q. header pipe 2 bolts into cylinder head r. silencer- 3 bolts (one with washer and nut using 10mm wrench) s. cylinder head coolant hose clamp and hose t. rear shock upper bolt u. radiator plastic cover bolt, then lever up the radiator with screwdriver until the radiator “legs” pop out of frame retaining holes 5. Remove flywheel using flywheel puller tool, taking care not to lose the small Woodruff
key by placing it inside of the magnetic flywheel for safe storage. 6. Remove ignition (3 bolts) and slide rubber grommet and ignition wiring assembly out of the case and out of the way, taking special note of the ignition timing marks. 7. Remove front sprocket and 2 retaining circlips. 8. Remove clutch side case and its 10 bolts using 5mm Allen, being careful not to lose to lose the 2 aluminum alignment pins (dowel pins). Insert the dowel pins into their holes within the Right Crankcase

KTM 60 SX / 65 SX REPAIR MANUAL ENGINE

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Carburetor adjustment Basic information about the original carburetor setting The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient temperature of approx. 20°C (68°F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (ROZ 95). Mixing ratio 2-stroke motor oil : super fuel 1:40 . Basic information of changing the carburetor setting Always start out from the original carburetor setting. Essential requirements are a clean air filter system, air-tight exhaust system and an intact carburetor. Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the jet needle is sufficient and that changes of other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance. RULE OF THUMB: high altitude or high temperatures  choose leaner carburetor adjustment low altitude or low temperatures  choose richer carburetor adjustment * WARNING * -ONLYUSE PREMIUM – GRADE GASOLINE ROZ 95 MIXED WITH HIGH – GRADE TWO – STROKE ENGINE OIL . OTHER TYPES OF GASOLINE CAN CAUSE ENGINE FAILURE , AND USE OF SAME WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY . -ONLYUSE HIGH – GRADE 2- STROKE ENGINE OIL OF KNOWN BRANDS ( I . E .SHELL ADVANCE RACING X). -NOTENOUGH OIL OR LOW – GRADE OILCAN CAUSE EROSION OF THE PISTON . USING TOO MUCH OIL , THE ENGINE CAN START SMOKING AND FOUL THE SPARKPLUG . -INTHE CASE OFA LEANER ADJUSTMENT OF THE CARBURETOR PROCEED CAUTIOUSLY . ALWAYSREDUCETHEJETSIZEINSTEPSOFONENUMBERTOAVOID OVERHEATING AND PISTON SEIZURE . NOTE: If despite a changed adjustment the engine does not run properly, look for mechanical faults and check the ignition system. Basic information on carburetor wear As a result of engine vibrations, throttle valve, jet needle, and needle jet are subjected to increased wear. This wear may cause carburetor malfunction (e.g., overly rich mixture). Therefore, these parts should be replaced after 1000 hours of using. Idling range – A Operation with closed throttle valve. This range is influenced by the idle adjusting screw 1 . Only make adjustments when the engine is hot. The idling speed can be changed by turning the idle adjusting screw. Turning it clockwise produces a higher idling speed and turning the screw counterclockwise produces a lower idling speed. Opening up – B Engine behavior when the throttle opens. The idle jet and the shape of the throttle valve influences this range. If, despite good idling-speed and part-throttle setting, the engine sputters and smokes when the throttle is fully opened and develops its full power not smoothly but suddenly at high engine speeds, the mixture to the carburetor will be too rich, the fuel level too high or the float needle is leaking. Part-throttle range – C Operation with partly open throttle valve. This range is only influenced by the jet needle (shape and position). The optimum part-throttle setting is controlled by the idling setting in the lower range and by the main jet in the upper range. If the engine runs on a four-stroke cycle or with reduced power when it is accelerated with the throttle partly open, the jet needle must be lowered by one notch. If then the engine pings, especially when accelerating under full power at maximum engine revs, the jet needle should be raised. If these faults should occur at the lower end of the part throttle range at a four-stroke running, make the idling range leaner; if the engine pings, adjust the idling range richer

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Harley Davidson engine modification

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-11-2010

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Looking for high performance engine specifications for your Harley- Davidson motorcycle? Need to know what high performance equipment provides the best performance at the lowest costs for your H-D. Here you can look at performance modifications with the dyno runs of many different engine combinations, so you can pick your own equipment, horsepower rating and dollars to spend. An incremental approach to engine development has provided some good results on many engines. Find out what combination of carburetor, camshaft, exhaust systems, ignition systems, head work, pistons and the other high performance components work well. There are tests of some equipment that did not work well. Know what works and what does not. Compare the results of your current bike to those seen here. Are you getting the performance you paid for? If you have had success in your engine development program, send a picture of the bike and your performance results (dyno sheets or time slips) to the V -Twin Café for publication. The V -Twin Café is always looking for good articles on motorcycle performance work. If you write performance oriented articles, contact us. Twin Cam 88 and 95 cubic inches Twin Cam Engines from Harley-Davidson have a good design and some nice upgrades available from the local Dealer including a 95 cubic inch big bore kit. What can you expect from this engine? Here are some engine configurations that have been tested. 45 to 50 HP Stock Evolution Engines are the starting point for all the modifications. The only way to validate what the performance gain was for any change is to have dyno runs before and after. These are the before runs of several bikes. 55 to 65 HP Up to $750 Stage One Evolution Harley-Davidson engines involve no internal changes made to the engine. All modifications are made by changing or modifications to external components on the engine. These components include air cleaners, carburetors, exhaust systems and ignition systems. No special tools or training is required to perform stage one modifications.

Yamaha Road Star Engine Guard Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 07-11-2010

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1. Protect the rear portion of the front fender with a towel or other thick, soft cloth. 2. Remove the OEM engine guards if they have been installed on the motorcycle. Or, if OEM engine guards are not present, Remove the two lower engine mount bolts. These bolts are located on the inside of the right and left frame rails, and will be replaced with the longer 10mm bolts included with your new engine guard. 3. Position the engine guard so that the lower brackets point towards the rear of the motorcycle, and slide the engine guard into the space between the front wheel and the frame. 4. Raise the guard until the upper V” mount is located between the frame rails. Note: Your new Barons engine guard is equipped with a unique upper V” mount clamp. This clamp becomes a cradle for the upper frame supports when it is inserted between the frame rails. 5. Rotate the engine guard until the lower mounting brackets are aligned with the lower engine mount holes. Due to production line tolerances in both the motorcycle and the engine guard, the mounting brackets may be too wide or too narrow for the frame. If this is the case, remove the guard from the motorcycle. Place the guard on a flat, firm surface. Insert a towel or other protective material between the guard and the surface. Using a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer, tap the lower brackets until they are correctly spaced. 6. Insert the new 10mm bolts and washers, and finger tighten only. 7. Tighten each 3/8″ bolt in the upper clamp evenly by using a 9/16″ socket or a wrench. Snug down each bolt until it draws the front of the upper clamp into contact with the upper frame supports, then adjust these bolts accordingly to achieve equal spacing between each floorboard and the lower engine guard rail. 8. Tighten the jam nuts against the washers to lock each bolt in place. CAUTION! It is critical that you do not over-tighten these bolts. Tighten all remaining nuts and bolts securely. If necessary, slightly loosen rear brake line banjo bolt and rotate banjo fitting for clearance with engine guard. Tighten banjo bolt and check brake for proper operation. You must re-tighten all four of the engine guard mounting bolts after 100 miles of riding! Care & Cleaning: Engine guards take the full brunt of the worst of what the weather in your area has to offer, making it critical that proper and complete cleaning take place on a weekly basis, or corrosion will occur which is not covered by warranty! Proper cleaning procedure would be to use a product like Simple Green, LOC, Salt-Away or similar. Mix a strong batch and apply it liberally with a soft towel or soft nylon brush to the entire

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2004 Honda CRF450R OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-11-2010

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motorcycle can be kickstarted with the transmission in gear by disengaging the clutch before operating the kickstarter. Check the engine oil, transmission oil and coolant levels before starting the engine (page 21, 23, 24). Cold Engine Starting: 1. Turn the fuel valve ON. 2. Shift the transmission into neutral. 3. If the temperature is 35°C (95°F) or below, pull the choke knob fully out. 4. If the temperature is below 0°C (32°F), open the throttle two or three times. (The engine requires a richer mixture for starting in cold weather. When the throttle is so opened, the accelerator pump will feed extra fuel to the cylinder, thereby facilitating starting in cold weather.) 5. With the throttle closed, operate the kickstarter starting from the top of the kickstarter stroke, kick through to the bottom with a rapid, continuous motion. (Do not open the throttle, As the carburetor is equipped with an accelerator pump, excessive fuel will be charged into the engine, and the spark plug will be fouled if the throttle is opened and closed repeatedly. Excessive fuel in the engine makes kick- starting difficult.) 6. About a minute after the engine starts, push the choke knob back all the way to fully OFF. If idling is unstable, open the throttle slightly. (1) FUEL FILL CAP (2) BREATHER TUBE WARNING (1) FUEL VALVE (2) CHOKE KNOB Warm Engine Starting: 1. Turn the fuel valve ON. 2. Shift the transmission into neutral. 3. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine. (Do not open the throttle.) 4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine. (Do not open the throttle.) 3. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever. Starting the engine excessively charged with fuel by throttle blipping or other reasons: 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. With the throttle fully opened, repeat kickstarter operation approximately 10 times very slowly to discharge excessive fuel from the engine. 3. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine (Do not open the throttle.) 4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever. Stopping The Engine 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. Turn the fuel valve OFF. 3. Lightly open the throttle 2 – 3 times, and then close it. 4. Depress and hold the engine stop button until the engine stops completely. NOTE: • Failure to close the fuel valve may cause the carburetor to overflow. (1) THROTTLE GRIP (2) ENGINE STOP BUTTON Break-In Procedure Help assure your CRF’s future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you ride during the first operating day or 15 miles (25 km). During this period, avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration. This same procedure should be followed each time when: • Piston is replaced • Rings are replaced • Cylinder is replaced • Crankshaft or crank bearing are replaced

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SCREAMIN' EAGLE TWIN CAM 110 (1800 CC) CONVERSION KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-02-2011

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REMOVAL Prepare for Service 1. Position motorcycle on a suitable lift. NOTE If vehicle is equipped with Harley-Davidson Smart Security System, see owner’s manual for instructions to disarm the system. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 2. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) battery cable first. 3. Remove seat according to the instructions in the service manual. 4. Refer to service manual to remove left saddlebag and side cover. When servicing the fuel system, do not smoke or allow open flame or sparks in the vicinity. Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive, which could result in death or serious injury. (00330a) 5. Remove fuel tank according to the instructions in the service manual. Remove Engine Components 1. Remove existing air cleaner assembly. Discard backplate but save remaining parts. Refer to AIR CLEANER REMOVAL in service manual. 2. Remove existing exhaust system. Refer to EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL in service manual. 3. Remove engine from chassis following the instructions in the service manual. 4. Disassemble engine top end and bottom end. Refer to appropriate ENGINE sections in service manual. 5. Remove existing clutch diaphragm spring. Refer to CLUTCH REMOVAL in service manual. The procedures in this instruction sheet should be performed by one experienced in precision measuring techniques. Failure to meet tolerances called for in this instruction sheet can result in engine damage. (00511b) -J04793 1 2 is03517 1. O-ring counterbore 2. Spigot bore Figure 1. Spigot Bore and O-Ring Counterbore Dimensions Table 1. Spigot Bore and O-Ring Counterbore Dimensions Depth Bore Description 1.625 +/- 0.010 in. (41.3 +/- 0.25 mm) 4.205 +/- 0.010 in. (107 +/- 0.25 mm) Spigot Bore 0.085 +/- 0.003 in. (2.16 +/- 0.08 mm) 4.415 +/- 0.002 in. (112 +/- 0.05 mm) O-Ring Counter- bore is03456 Figure 2. Cylinder Wall MACHINE CRANKCASE Crankcase Boring Preparation NOTE During final assembly of the engine, Harley-Davidson recommends replacing the OE cylinder studs with Screamin’ Eagle High Tensile Studs (16505-01). 1. Remove cylinder studs from the engine crankcase. 2. Mask off all bearings and oil holes to prevent debris and contaminants from entering those areas. 3. Inspect and clean engine case mating surfaces. 4. See Figure 6. Reassemble engine case with OE screws, except the top center screw between the cylinders, and tighten to specifications listed in service manual. NOTE To prevent damage to crankcase boring tool, it is important to replace the top center screw with a modified top center screw (1093). This screw is included in the Crankcase Boring Tool Kit (94419-06) and can be purchased separately from a Harley- Davidson dealer. 5. Install modified top center screw (1093) between the cylinders and tighten to 50-90 in-lbs (5.6-10.2 Nm). 6. See Figure 1 and Table 1. Machine crankcase cylinder spigot bore and O-ring counterbore to the dimensions shown. Modify Crankcase

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Sherco Engine Teardown and Assembly Manual/ Engine Removal and Case Splitting

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Filed Under (Sherco) by admin on 25-11-2010

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Remove: a. rear fender- two bolts plus one long with washer using 4mm Allen b. fuel tank hose from petcock c. fuel tank- one short bolt and washer using 4mm Allen d. chain master link and chain from front sprocket e. kick starter- one large button head bolt and washer f. rear brake- one bolt/washer using 13mm wrench g. rear brake master cylinder- 2 button head bolts h. gear shifter- one bolt i. flywheel cover – 3 bolts j. clutch slave cylinder- two button head bolts using 4mm Allen k. clutch actuating rod by pulling it out of the case l. airbox three 4mm Allen bolts and loosening Phillips head carb hose clamp m. carburetor cap /slide assembly n. carburetor by loosening Phillips head manifold hose clamp o. spark plug cap p. spark plug q. header pipe 2 bolts into cylinder head r. silencer- 3 bolts (one with washer and nut using 10mm wrench ) s. cylinder head coolant hose clamp and hose t. rear shock upper bolt u. radiator plastic cover bolt, then lever up the radiator with screwdriver until the radiator “legs” pop out of frame retaining holes 5. Remove flywheel using flywheel puller tool, taking care not to lose the small Woodruff key by placing it inside of the magnetic flywheel for safe storage. 6. Remove ignition (3 bolts) and slide rubber grommet and ignition wiring assemblyout of the case and out of the way, taking special note of the ignition timing marks. 7. Remove front sprocket and 2 retaining circlips. 8. Remove clutch side case and its 10 bolts using 5mm Allen, being careful not to lose to lose the 2 aluminum alignment pins (dowel pins). Insert the dowel pins into their holes within the Right Crankcase.

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