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RACE TECH SUSPENSION SERVICE TOOLS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 01-12-2010

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SHOCK SEAL BULLET TOOL “Bullet Tools” make seal head installation onto shafts quick and easy. 35-8677 TSSB12512.5 x 10mm Shock Seal Bullet 35-8678 TSSB1414 x 12mm Shock Seal Bullet 35-8679 TSSB1616 x 12mm Shock Seal Bullet FORK CAP WRENCH 46/50MM Black Oxidized steel construction for superior strength. Multiple applications (46/50mm): Honda CR250 (97-00), Suzuki RM125/250 (96-00), and removes compression adjuster assembly on Suzuki RM125/250 (98-00). Sold each. 35-8670 TFCW4650 Fork Cap Wrench SHAFT HOLDING TOOL Holds fork damping rods, cartridges, shock shafts, etc. while servicing. (aluminum) 35-8672 TFSH10 Shaft Holding Tool 10, 12, 12.5, & 14mm (Dampning Rods) 35-8673 TFSH14 Shaft Holding Tool 14, 16, & 18mm (Shock Shafts) 35-8674 TFSH20 Shaft Holding Tool 20, 24, & 29mm (20 & 25mm Fork Cartridges) 35-8675 TFSH32 Shaft Holding Tool 32 & 35mm (28 & 32mm Fork Cartridges) ULTRA SLICK SEAL GREASE Race Tech Ultra-Slick Grease provides maximum lubrication and minimum friction for all seal and bushing needs. Available in 1 oz. container. 35-8682 Ultra Slick Seal Grease SHOCK SEAL HEAD SETTING TOOL Allows easy removal and installation of all 40 – 46mm integral shock seal head assemblies. 35-8676 TFSH32 Shock Seal Head Setting Tool SAG MASTER™ The Sag Master is a tool that makes measuring “Race Sag”a snap because you read it directly. No more subtracting! Also useful in determining proper spring rates and monitoring linkage and seal drag. Comes with complete instructions and, doubles as a tape measure. 35-8681 TSSM01 Sag Master Race Sag Setting Tool FORK SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL This unique fork spring compressor is designed to work on most current sport bikes and road racers. It allows the spring to be compressed while the fork cap is removed from the rod. It can be used on or off the bike on most models. 35-8680 TFSC01 Fork Spring Compressor Tool

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Harley Davidson Softails Airtail Suspension System Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Step 1: Set the Bottoming Control This is the most important step and needs to be done first. Ideally, with the rear wheel off the ground take a measurement from the axle straight up to a fixed point on the fender (assuming the fender is mounted on the frame and not the swingarm). Then, with the motorcycle back on the ground and the rider on it, pressurize the “Bottoming Control” chamber until you get the same measurement —less 1 ¼ to 1 ½”. For example, if your first measurement was 10.0″ inches then your ending measurement should be between 8.50″ and 8.75″ inches. The difference between the two measurements is referred to as “sag”, and it should equal approximately one third of your total wheel travel (see figure 3). Another method of achieving the proper sag is it start with the bike on the ground — with no rider or load on it. Pressurize the “Bottoming Control” chamber to the highest pressure you can without exceeding 150 psi. At this point the rear wheel should be “topped out” and you need to measure from the axle straight up to a fixed point on the fender as described above. Take the same measurement with rider(s) on the bike — ready to ride. The second measurement should be 1¼” to 1½ ” less than the first. If it isn’t, then bleed off the pressure in the “Bottoming Control” chamber until the proper sag is achieved. If you intend to ride the bike at this “full height” then make sure you still put about 10 psi into the “Ride Height” chamber anyway. This helps the piston that separates the two chambers to move more freely producing a smoother ride. Step 2: Set the Ride Height After you have set the “Bottoming Control” you can now adjust the “Ride Height” chamber. This is a much simpler and less crucial adjustment to make. Simply pressurize the “Ride Height” chamber until the bike is lowered to the desired height. To raise the ride height back up, release pressure in the “Ride Height” chamber. Remember, the pressure in this chamber “holds” the bike down—the more pressure the lower it goes. Though the bike may feel “stiffer” the lower you go, do NOT re-adjust the “Bottoming Control” chamber. Essentially what’s happening here is as you’ve reduced your wheel travel, you’ve proportionally increased the forces that keep you from bottoming out with what wheel travel you have left. If you do need to re-adjust the “Bottoming Control” due the addition (or subtraction) of a passenger or extra load, release the pressure from the “Ride Height” chamber first, then repeat step 1.

2009 Honda CRF450R Decompression Plunger PRODUCT UPDATE CAMPAIGN

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-04-2011

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JH2PE053*9K700001 thru JH2PE053*9K703372 (*) Denotes check digit UPDATE PROCEDURE DEALER VENTORY Any affected unit in your inventory must be updated with a new decompression plunger and weight before delivery to the customer. Refer tothe PARTS INFORMATION and the UPDATE PROCEDURE sections of thisb Service Bulletin. Refer to the 2009 CRF450R Service Manual for specific removal instructions. 1. Remove the seat (page 3-3). 2. Remove the shrouds (page 3-4). 3. Properly hang the fuel tank (page 4-6). 4. Remove the camshaft (page 9-10) CUSTOMER INFORMATION: The information in this bulletin is intended for use only by skilled technicians who have the proper tools, equipment, and training to correctly and safely maintain your Honda. These procedures should not be attempted by “do-it-yourselfers,” and you should not assume this bulletin applies to your Honda, or that your Honda has the condition described. To determine whether this information applies, contact an authorized Honda dealer. 5. Replace the decompression weight and plunger with kit parts (page 9-14). 6. Reinstall all previously removed parts. IDENTIFICATION When you have completed the update, place a punch mark before the first digit of the V.I.N. located on the right side of the steering head. 0080 WARRANTY INFORMATION This Product Update Campaign ends on arch 7, 2012. Normal claim submission requirements apply. fter completing the UPDATE PROCEDURE,submit one warranty claim per unit with the following information: WARRANTY CLAIM TEMPLATE: Template: R02A* Flat Rate Time: 1.2 hours *Template reads “R-zero-2-A”.

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KTM Enduro Engineering Shock Spring Removal And Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010

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1 Place motorcycle on a stand so that the rear wheel is off the ground. 2 Remove the upper shock bolt. (Figure 1) 3 Remove the lower shock bolt. (Figure 2) 4 Remove the shock from the motorcycle by sliding it down and out the right rear side of the bike. (Figure 3) 5 Place the shock upside down in a vice with soft jaws. Loosen the retaining ring lock screw with a 4mm Allen wrench. (Figure 4) 6 Using EE KTM shock wrench #22-300 (Figure 5), loosen the retaining collar enough to provide ¾ clearance between the bottom of the spring and the spring retaining collar. (Figure 6) 7 Push the spring retaining collar down to access the retaining clip. (Figure 7) 8 Remove the retaining clip. 9 Remove the spring retaining collar by sliding it up and off of the shock clevis. (Figure 8) 10 Slide the shock spring up and off of the shock. 11 Slide the new spring onto the shock. It should be sitting on the adjusting collar. 12 Re-install the spring retaining collar by sliding it over the clevis far enough to allow the retaining clip to be installed. 13 Install the retaining clip. Make sure that it is fully seated in the groove. 14 Slide the spring retaining collar up until it bottoms out on the retaining clip. 15 Tighten the spring adjusting collar until the bottom of the spring contacts the spring retaining collar. Turn the spring adjusting collar a couple more turns to put a small amount of pre-load on the spring. 16 Remove the shock from the vice and re-install it on the bike by reversing removal steps. Make sure to torque the upper and lower shock bolts to the manufacturer’s torque spec. 17 Set static and race sag as specified in your owner’s manual. Remember to torque the adjusting collar lock screw to manufacturer’s specification

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Air Shock Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

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Air HoseInstallation. Choose the most convenient loca- tiononyour motorcycle for the air fill valve. Drilla 5/16″hole and install the air fill valve as shown in Figure 3orsecure air fill valve to frame tube. 2. Keep hose ends clean during installation because dirt can cause air leaks. 3. Install hose connector, tube clamp and two O-rings onto one end of the air hose (See Figures4&5) Apply rubber lubricant (soap solution, not oil) to the O-rings to ease installation on the air hose& into the shock absorber inlet. Plastic connector should just bottom on fitting. Do not overtighten! The function of the nut is to hold everything together in place, the O- rings do the sealing. Fin- gertightenonly (10 in/lb maximum). 4. After routing the air hose, trim the length to fit air fill valve. Install hose connector, tube clamp, and twoO-rings onto end of hose (See figures 4&5). Lubricate as above and assemble to air fill valve. Use the same procedure formating hose. Important —leaveasmall amount of slack in hose near shock absorber to allow for the slight move- mentofthe shock. Caution! Do not install hose near ex- haustsystem, battery or any other sharp edges or seat movement. Keep hoses clear of moving parts such as wheels or suspension components. Do not allow hoses to have excess slack and sag below the motorcycle. The hoses could catch on road surfaces or debris and could be damaged while the motorcycle is in motion. 5. If necessary the air hose can be secured along the motorcycle’swiringharness with tie-wraps. 6. Testing: Inflate system to 50 psi. Apply soapy water solution to all connections and check for air leaks. If there are any leaks, disconnect the suspected fitting and check for dirt or damage to the air line or the O-rings. Remove any dirt or foreign matter, re-lubricate the O-rings and reinstall. If unable to locate the leak, remove rubber boot from shocks and submerge pressurized components under water (in- cludingT-Valve) and check for leaks. If you cannot solve the air leak problem, please contact our technical staff for assistance

STROKE DOWNHILL MOUNTAIN BIKE SHOCK SPECIFICATIONS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 01-12-2010

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The shock has an adjustable rebound and standard Hi/low compression. The optional independent hi/ low compression adjuster has a low speed brass screw and a seperate blue high speed hex. The rebound adjuster is at the bottom of the shock. The standard setting is 8 clicks out (counter clockwise) from full hard. To increase rebound damping turn the adjuster in (clockwise), this will slow the extension of the shock. To decrease rebound damping turn the adjuster out (counter clockwise) this will quicken the extension of the shock. The standard compression adjuster has a the slotted brass screw on the reservoir. The standard setting is 12 clicks out low/hi speed brass screw(counter clockwise) and 1.75 turns out on the blue hex high speed adjuster from full hard. To increase compression damping turn the adjuster in (clockwise) – this will stiffen the compression of the shock. The low speed compression adjuster will soften small bumps and improve traction. The optional high speed adjuster will firm up the damping for big hits with no loss in small bump compliance, firmer settings will improve pedaling as well, lighter settings will smooth out square edge hits. Spring preload can also be changed to tune the shock to the weight of the rider. The shock spring preload can be varied by tightening or loosening the preload collars. The standard preload is 1.5 turns, (min 1 turn / max 3 turns). The rider sag must be adjusted to 1/3 of the total stroke with the rider sitting on the bike. This is the difference from fully extended position to the rider sitting. The ride height can be raised or lowered ± 5 mm to quicken or slow steering within the range of preload settings

2005-2007 KTM 5018 DCC 5018 SXS 5018 SMR WP SHOCK ABSORBER REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 13-02-2011

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liter fuel consumption is equivalent to approx. 15 operating hours Check the bearing in the shock absorber top / replace if necessary Check the piston rod on scratches / leakage Check the static sag – before riding Check the spring Check the bump rubber Check the O-ring of the spring retainer / replace if necessary Complete maintenance of the shock absorber 10 hours 65 liter 20 hours 130 liter 30 hours 200 liter 40 hours 260 liter 50 hours 325 liter 60 hours 400 liter 70 hours 455 liter 80 hours 520 liter 90 hours 600 liter 100 hours 665 liter Adjusting the position of the compression and rebound damping Rebound damping: -Turn in the adjusting screw 1 in a clockwise direction all the way to the stop. -Turn back the respective number of clicks in a counterclockwise direction. Compression damping, low speed: -Turn in the adjusting screw 2 in a clockwise direction all the way to the stop. -Turn back the respective number of clicks in a counterclockwise direction. Compression damping, high speed: -Turn in the adjusting screw 3 in a clockwise direction all the way to the stop. -Turn back the respective number of clicks in a counterclockwise direction. Adjusting the spring preload NOTE: the spring preload is the difference between the unloaded and preloaded length of the spring. -Tighten the adjusting nut 4 with the special tool T106 until you have the prescribed spring preload. -Tighten the lock screw on the adjusting nut. Recommended periodic maintenance and inspection of the 5018 SXS/SMR Shock absorber

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ATK 50MX INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT TIPS

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Filed Under (Atk) by admin on 01-11-2010

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PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT— On some Works shocks a threaded preload is standard. This allows the adjustment of the ride height of the motorcycle. The preload is changed by turning a threaded nut down towards the spring (higher ride height) or up away from the spring (lower ride height). The nut is a right-hand thread. CHECKING RIDE HEIGHT— 1. With the bike unloaded on the side stand and the shock fully extended, have an assistant measure from a point at the axle (center point) to a point on the frame, fender or bodywork directly above it. Record this measurement. 2. With the bike off the stand and the rider in the seat, bounce on the suspension and let the bike settle. Have the assistant measure from the same two points. Subtract the second measurement from the first. HM CRX50 / BAJA & ATK 50MX INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT TIPS Continued on next page. #HM50 – 5/27/99 #HM50 – 5/27/99 To Front Valve Mounting channel Spacer Flange Shock eye Top View of Shock Mount Fig. 1 Top view of upper shock mount. The flange on the shock bushing must face toward the spacer. The valve should point toward the front of the bike Fig. 1 Top view of upper shock mount. The flange on the shock bushing must face toward the spacer. The valve should point toward the front of the bike 3. The amount of settle, or “sag” is a function of the wheel travel. It should only be between 1/4 and 1/3 of the total travel. 4. If the difference is less than the minimum, reduce the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. 5. If the difference is more than the maximum, increase the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. Note: If the ride height is too low, the shock will bottom unnecessarily, resulting in a harsh ride. If the ride height is too high, the shock will “top out” too easily when rebounding from a bump or under hard deceleration. NITROGEN PRESSURES IN EMULSION SHOCKS CAUTION: The pressure in these shocks cannot successfully be checked. Concerns with the gauge volume and the gas volume in the shock body create a situation where you cannot accurately determine what pressure was in the shock. In addition when the pressure is lowered (i.e. checking the pressure) the gas and some of the shock oil escapes into the gauge. It is possible to lose a large percentage of the shock oil by depressing the core of a charged shock to the atmosphere. Please note that in order to check the pressure, some of the gas must escape and fill the gauge assembly. The volume of the gas pocket is about half the size of your thumb, so a very small volume change results in a large pressure drop. Because the gauges’ volumes vary, it is not possible to deduce the actual pressure in the shock prior to attaching the gauge. Therefore it is imperative that any attempt to check pressure be accompanied by the capability of refilling the shock. In other words: If you don’t have a nitrogen source handy, don’t check the pressure! PRESSURIZING EMULSION SHOCKS The pressure setting for Works gas shocks is 250 p.s.i. of dry nitrogen. To pressurize a shock with some residual pressure in it, bring the gauge manifold up to 250 p.s.i. and depress the core with the T-handle. This will either equalize the pressure or refill the shock without transferring oil from the shock into the gauge assembly. The best gauges for this purpose screw on to the valve and incorporate a T-handled core depressor to isolate the shock from the gauge. This allows a leak-free separation once the desired pressure is reached. For simplified operation, an extra valve is provided for the filling apparatus, allowing pressure adjustment with the gauge in place. Works offers a suitable gauge and filling manifold. Most motorcycle shops that deal with dirt bikes can pressurize the shock

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MOUNTAIN BIKE AIR SHOCK SET-UP AND TUNING GUIDE

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 01-12-2010

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DETAILED SET-UP 2. Installing Air Pressure – Remove the air cap from the Schrader valve on the end of the shock body. Attach the pump to the Schrader valve. Some people damage their pumps by screwing them on too far. As soon as the gauge registers pressure, screw 1/2 turn more and pump to the desired level. Use the release button on the pump to reduce air pressure. The hiss you hear when unscrewing the pump is only the air from the pump and not from the shock! Likewise, when you install the pump again, you will also hear a hiss as air from the shock fills the pump and reduces the registered pressure you previously installed. All perfectly normal when pressurizing the shock! After removing the pump, be sure to reinstall the Schrader valve cap. If the shock does not dampen properly after pressurizing, the air pressure may have been lost during pump removal as a result of a worn pump fitting o-ring that needs replacement. Do not ride the bike until the shock is properly pressurized. 3. Main Air Spring Pressure Adjustments – Air Spring adjustments are made by inflating or deflating the main air spring chamber. Since your IFP air pressure adjustment (outlined above) also affects your starting spring force, you should always adjust your IFP pressure before adjusting the main air spring pressure. You can refer to the online Quick Start guide at: www.progressivesuspension.com/literature.html for accurate main air spring pressure and sag settings matched to your bike model and body

KTM SX-F 250/ 450 Front Fork Kit INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 22-01-2012

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Breather plug Make sure to aerate the front fork at regular intervals: Put the motorcycle on a workstand so that the front wheel barely touches the ground. Loosen the breather plug to release excessive pressure in the front fork. Recommended Service Intervals Every 25 hours. Make your service and maintenance according to Öhlins Workshop manual. Disposal Discarded Öhlins products should be handed over to an authorized Öhlins workshop or distributor for proper disposa Compression damping adjuster The compression adjuster is located at the top of the fork leg. Adjust by turning the slotted screw with a screwdriver. Rebound damping adjuster The rebound adjuster is located at the bottom of the fork leg. Adjust by turning the slotted screw with a screwdriver. To Reset The adjusters have a normal right hand thread. Turn the damping adjusters gently clockwise to fully closed (pos. zero [0]). To open, turn counter clockwise, and count the clicks until you reach the recommended number. For recommended clicks see Set-up data. Static sag can only be changed with softer or harder spring rate.

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