Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 17-12-2011
K&L CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT WRENCHES These tools use tough and accurate bevel gear actuation instead of cable for professional use. The aluminum handle includes index marks for accurate tuning. Sold each. Three types available: 35-9653 Slot-type Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench for Kawasaki/Suzuki/Yamaha 35-9658 Slot-type Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench with longer tip for Kawasaki/Suzuki/Yamaha 35-9650 D-type Keihin Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench for Honda 90-DEGREE 1/4″ HEX DRIVER This gear driven, 1/4″ hex driver set is made of high-grade aluminum and stainless steel. Strongest tool of it’s type on the market. Designed for use on hard-to-reach pilot air screws on inline fours. Can be used with any 1/4″ or 6mm hex bits. 35-7820 90-Degree 1/4″ Hex Driver Set: Includes straight slot, phillips, d-shape pilot screw bit, 6mm hex jet bit & 1/4″ – hex – 1/4″ drive bit. FCR CARB TOOL Set includes three bits – 6mm hex for main jets, long reach straight slot for pilot jets and 3mm allen for float bowl removal. Longer bits make this set ideal for reaching into recessed cavities when adjusting Keihin FCR carburetors. Sold as a set. 35-7978 FCR Carb Tool 12″ DRILL BIT For removal of carburetor plug. (mixture screw plug) 1/8″ bit x 12 inch length. 35-1186 YM-33217-16 JET DRIVER 35-2270 Perfect for removal of jets from small recessed passages
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 21-01-2012
1) The “blue” colored screw in the image is the duration adjustment screw. Underneath the head of the screw is a lock nut and the bracket arm that the screw is threaded into. To decrease the amount of fuel squirted the adjustment screw is turned “clockwise” or in. To increase the amount of fuel squirted the adjustment screw is turned “counter clockwise” or out. To get the max, amount of decrease remove the screw and take the lock nut off of the screw. Then replace the screw into the cam arm, then replace the lock nut underneath the arm on the screw. this gives you another 3/32″ of an inch in which the screw can be screwed in.
2) Turn the adjustment screw fully clockwise or IN. Start your engine, Blip your throttle open, if the engine stutters, (hesitates), it is not getting enough fuel so turn the screw counter clockwise to increase the amount of fuel squirted from the accelerator pump into the carburetor. Keep blipping the throttle and adjusting the screw till the carburetor starts to cough. Stop here and turn the screw back in till the coughing stops. Tighten down the lock nut. This should give you the best throttle response with the least amount of coughing and backfiring out the carburetor. Timing Adjustment Screw This is the “Green” colored screw just above the Blue duration adjustment screw. The” Mucker” said it best,,,,, This upper screw adjusts the “timing” of the squirt. By altering it’s setting, you can advance or delay the onset of the fuel squirt. But probably, it won’t have to be touched
Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 28-11-2010
Compression damping of shock absorber (MXC, EXC) The compression damping (during compression) can be adjusted for the MXC and EXC shock absorbers (Mono Compression Control). The degree of damping can be adjusted by turning adjusting screw 1 with a screwdriver. Turning in a clockwise direction will increase the damping, turning in a counterclockwise direction will decrease the damping. STANDARD ADJUSTMENT: -Turn the adjusting screw clockwise to the stop. -Then turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise, counting the number of clicks that corresponds to the respective type of shock absorber. Type White Power 1218X757…………..17 clicks Type White Power 1218X759…………..17 clicks * WARNING * THE DAMPING UNIT OF THE SHOCK ABSORBER IS FILLED WITH HIGH – COMPRESSION NITROGEN . NEVER TRY TO TAKE THE SHOCK ABSORBER APART OR TO DO ANY MAINTEN – ANCE WORK YOURSELF . SEVERE INJURIES COULD BE THE RESULT . NEVER UNSCREW THE BLACK SCREW 2 CONNECTION (24 MM ). Rebound damping of shock absorber (SX, MXC, EXC) By using the adjusting screw 3 , the degree of damping of the rebound can be adjusted. Turn the knob to the right side to increase damping, turn it to the left side to reduce damping during rebounding. STANDARD ADJUSTMENT: -Turn the adjusting screw clockwise to the stop. -Then turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise, counting the number of clicks that corresponds to the respective type of shock absorber. Type White Power 1218X756…………..28 clicks Type White Power 1218X757…………..28 clicks Type White Power 1218X759…………..26 clicks * WARNING * THE DAMPING UNIT OF THE SHOCK ABSORBER IS FILLED WITH HIGH – COMPRESSION NITROGEN . N EVERTRYTOTAKETHESHOCKABSORBERAPARTORTODOANYMAINTE – NANCE WORK YOURSELF . SEVERE INJURIES COULD BE THE RESULT . NEVER UNSCREW THE BLACK SCREW 4 CONNECTION (15 MM )
Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-12-2010
Step 1 — Locate ‘mold circle’ indentation on each side fairing panel (Pic 1). With panel mounted on bike, this indentation is center, at rear inside panel edge, and faces inside. Temporarily install bracket as shown in (Pic 2), align bottom bracket hole over indentation and mark for hole. Remove brackets at this time. Step 2 — Remove fairing body side panels. Four screws per side required for removal, see owners manual. Drill a 3/8″ hole at mark. If harness kit has not been installed, do not re-install left side panel until finished unless you remove tank to install harness. Removal of the tank is the best option to route harness from battery area to front of the bike. Step 3 — As required, re-install fairing body side panels. Do not re-install the top factory inner panel Torx Screw yet, as you will re-use this screw to secure the top light bracket mounting hole to the fairing panel. Step 4 — Using 10/32×1/2 screws and black shoulder washers from Hardware package, secure lights to PIAA Ezy-Mount® brackets (See Pics 3 & 4). Right side bracket is stamped ‘EZY-MOUNT’. See note below for Powersports lights. Due to close proximity of the light body to fairing side panel, access to the vertical adjustment screw on the panel side of the light will not be possible after installation. To prepare for this; before installing bracket/light assembly to panel, make sure this screw is tightened so that you can barely move the light body. After bracket is installed, final vertical adjustment can be secured with the inside screw. Torque on this screw is adequate to hold vertical adjustment, and the screw that faces the panel will not come loose. NOTE: WHEN INSTALLING POWERSPORTS LIGHTS, YOU MUST INSERT THE SHOULDER ADAPTER WASHER INTO THE LIGHT FOOT, BEFORE INSERTING SCREW TO SECURE LIGHT FOOT TO BRACKET. THIS ADAPTER CENTERS LIGHT FOOT OVER PEMNUT (TIGHTEN THIS SCREW SECURELY). Step 5 — Insert well nut into previously drilled 3/8″ hole. Place bracket assembly against fairing, aligning top hole with the top fairing mounting position; re-install the factory Torx screw at this location. Adjust as necessary and install the second supplied SS 10/32 x 5/8 Torx screw thru the lower bracket mounting hole to the well nut. With constant pressure on the screw, tighten securely. Constant pressure ensures that the rear expandable section of the well nut captures the back of the plastic inner panel as you tighten the screw. Future removal of fairing panels is now possible with light assembly installed (utilizing the bottom bracket mounting screw), thus re-alignment of lights is not required after normal maintenance.
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 13-03-2011
Installation 1. Remove exhaust system according to Service Manual instructions. 2. See Figure 1. Remove the outer primary screw shown and retain it for reinstallation. 3. See Service Parts Illustration. Insert the thread cleaning screw (9), through the primary cover and the crankcase until the full screw diameter protrudes through the crankcase. Remove any debris from from the tip of the thread cleaning screw. Remove thread forming screw and discard. NOTE If thread cleaning screw binds in crankcase hole, remove thread cleaning screw and chase threads with 1/4 – 20 tap. 4. Install set screw (8) from outer primary side using the wrench provided. Set screw should extend past the crankcase approximately .375″. 5. With wrench in set screw to prevent rotation, install the backplate over the set screw and fasten with the 1/4-20 nylock nut (5). 6. Reinstall the primary cover screw saved in Step 1. Torque to 80-110 in-lbs (9-12 Nm). 7. Remove the the oil hose clamp from the starter stud. Do not remove the clamp from the hoses. 8. Replace the original equipment starter stud with stud (7) provided. Torque to 39-65 in-lbs (4-7 Nm). 9. Install bracket (2) over stud (7) and fasten with #10-24 nylock nut (6). Rotate bracket until the tab on the bracket rests on starter motor. 10. Install oil hose clamp onto bracket (2) using one of the #10-24 screws (4). Tuck the hoses down as far as possible without contacting the drive belt or kinking the hose. Contacting the drive belt or kinking the hose may cause damage to the hoses or powertrain. 11. Install the cover (1) to the backplate (3) and bracket (2) using four of the #10-24 screws (4) with the wrench provided. The cover should fit inboard of the gear cover and partially on top of the sprocket cover. Start the bracket screw first, then follow with the (3) backplate screws. 12. Reinstall exhaust system according to Service Manual Instructions