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HARLEY DAVIDSON PUSHROD COVER RETAINER INSTALLATION AND REMOVAL TOOL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-03-2011

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Figure 1. Pushrod Cover Retainer Installation and Removal Tool There are no Service Parts available with this kit. REMOVAL 1. See Figure 2. Insert the pin of the pushrod cover retainer tool into the retainer loop with the back of the tool towards the cylinder fins. Rotate the tool towards the cylinder to remove the pushrod cover retainer. INSTALLATION 2. See Figure 3. Load the pushrod cover retainer into the tool as shown in figure 3. Place the top edge of pushrod cover against top edge of push rod. 3. See Figure 4. Place the tool on top of the spring cover. Pivot the tool upward to install the pushrod cover retainer is05892a Figure 2. Removing Pushrod Cover Retainer is05895a Figure 3. Loading Pushrod Cover Retainer in Tool is05893a Figure 4. Pushrod Cover Retainer Installation

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL LEFT SIDE LEATHER TOOL BOX KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-04-2011

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Installation While handling and installing tool box, be careful not to scratch surface. 1. See Service Parts Illustration. Install tool box (1) to mounting bracket (6) using button head screws (2) and washers (5). Screws (2) should be inserted through mounting holes on inside of tool box (1) and then inserted through bracket (6) holes and threaded into weld nuts attached to bracket. 2. Remove and save the two screws that secure left rear fender support to motorcycle frame. 3. Remove two bolts, nuts, and washers that secure debris deflector to motorcycle frame. This will allow you to move debris deflector out of the way when installing new passenger footpeg support bolt. Save hardware for reinstallation. 4. For 1990 to 1999 Softails: If tool box is being installed with passenger footpeg, remove the hex head bolt and left passenger footpeg. Retain footpeg and lockwasher for reinstallation. Discard bolt . If tool box is being installed without passenger footpeg, remove hex head bolt and left passenger footpeg. Discard footpeg. Retain bolt and lockwasher. For 2000 and later Softails: See page 3 . Remove footrest from clevis. Remove clevis from frame by removing cap screw from center of clevis. If tool box is installed with footpegs, keep all hardware. If toolbox is to be installed with footboards, discard hardware. 5. Slide top of mounting bracket (6) between rear fender support and frame. Align top holes in bracket with fender support holes. Align lower bracket hole with footpeg mounting hole in frame. Install the two screws, removed in Step 2, in fender support. Do not tighten screws at this time. 6. For 1990 to 1999 Softails: Place lockwasher retained in step 4 on footpeg support hex head bolt (3) from kit. CAUTION 1 of 3 For 2000 and later Softails with footpegs: Install kit 49352-00 according to instructions included in this kit. Footpeg must fold up at a 45°angle (from vertical) toward rear of motorcycle. This angle allows footpeg to fold up if, by accident, it strikes the ground surface when making a sharp turn. Failure to set footpeg to the proper fold-up angle could result in death or serious injury. 7. For 1990 to 1999 Softails: Position footpeg so it folds up and back at a 45°angle. Install bolt (3) from kit through frame, tool box bracket (6), and spacer (4), into footpeg, as shown. NOTE If vehicle is equipped with saddlebag support bracket, Part No. 90346-90 or 90346-94, position saddlebag support bracket between tool box bracket and spacer.

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Harley-Davidson Six Speed Transmissions FLH 2009 Up Champion Reverse Gear Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 17-02-2011

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Preparation Remove Original Parts From Vehicle. 2.1 Purchase a small tube of Loctite #262 (red) for use later. 2.2 To torque the large gear: 2.2.1 Purchase Snap-On (or equivalent) filter tool. Part #: FWA62121. OR 2.2.2 Purchase Champion special tool – Part # RG-100-100 2.3 Drain the transmission oil. 2.4 Remove front and rear exhaust header pipe. 2.5 Remove the clutch release cover (right side). 2.6 Remove throw out bearing assembly. (to be reinstalled later without modification) 2.7 Remove the two nuts from the main and counter transmission shafts. WARNING : Do not attempt to push shafts into gearbox or remove the trap door – This can cause spacers inside the gearbox to be miss-aligned and lock up the gearbox when gears are installed and tightened. 2.8 Remove clutch push rod (to be replaced w/ Champion supplied rod) Note: For hydraulic clutch bikes, obtain Champion Part # RG-100-082, a longer push rod) Snap-On Part No: FWA62121 Snap-On Part No: FWA62121 Champion Part No: RG-100-100 Reverse Gear Installation Instructions Harley-Davidson Six Speed Transmission HD FLH 2009 Up Page 3 of 5 Revision 2 Boring Tool 3 Installation 3.1 Thoroughly clean threads of main and counter shafts using a silicon remover. 3.2 Apply the green thread locking compound (supplied) to main shaft threads and screw the small gear onto the main shaft. Figure 1 3.3 Install the supplied (ear)plug into the main shaft hole. To be removed later. 3.4 Install the supplied special tool to the small gear. Ensure the holes of the special tool align with the holes in the small gear. Figure 2 3.5 Install torque wrench to special tool and torque the small gear to 80 lb. ft. 3.6 Remove torque wrench from special tool. Do not remove special tool from small gear. 3.7 Using the supplied boring tool and the special tool as a guide, drill the main shaft through two holes of the special tool as shown. Stop when cutter contacts bearing race. Figure 3 3.8 Remove special tool, leaving main shaft plug in place, and thoroughly clean out the holes. Use care to ensure debris does not enter transmission. 3.9 Remove plug from main shaft hole. Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3 Note: To prevent gears from rotating during torque procedures, engage transmission into 1st gear and apply brakes Note: Frequently stop cutting and remove bit from hole to clean bit and vacuum debris from hole

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RACE TECH SUSPENSION SERVICE TOOLS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 01-12-2010

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SHOCK SEAL BULLET TOOL “Bullet Tools” make seal head installation onto shafts quick and easy. 35-8677 TSSB12512.5 x 10mm Shock Seal Bullet 35-8678 TSSB1414 x 12mm Shock Seal Bullet 35-8679 TSSB1616 x 12mm Shock Seal Bullet FORK CAP WRENCH 46/50MM Black Oxidized steel construction for superior strength. Multiple applications (46/50mm): Honda CR250 (97-00), Suzuki RM125/250 (96-00), and removes compression adjuster assembly on Suzuki RM125/250 (98-00). Sold each. 35-8670 TFCW4650 Fork Cap Wrench SHAFT HOLDING TOOL Holds fork damping rods, cartridges, shock shafts, etc. while servicing. (aluminum) 35-8672 TFSH10 Shaft Holding Tool 10, 12, 12.5, & 14mm (Dampning Rods) 35-8673 TFSH14 Shaft Holding Tool 14, 16, & 18mm (Shock Shafts) 35-8674 TFSH20 Shaft Holding Tool 20, 24, & 29mm (20 & 25mm Fork Cartridges) 35-8675 TFSH32 Shaft Holding Tool 32 & 35mm (28 & 32mm Fork Cartridges) ULTRA SLICK SEAL GREASE Race Tech Ultra-Slick Grease provides maximum lubrication and minimum friction for all seal and bushing needs. Available in 1 oz. container. 35-8682 Ultra Slick Seal Grease SHOCK SEAL HEAD SETTING TOOL Allows easy removal and installation of all 40 – 46mm integral shock seal head assemblies. 35-8676 TFSH32 Shock Seal Head Setting Tool SAG MASTER™ The Sag Master is a tool that makes measuring “Race Sag”a snap because you read it directly. No more subtracting! Also useful in determining proper spring rates and monitoring linkage and seal drag. Comes with complete instructions and, doubles as a tape measure. 35-8681 TSSM01 Sag Master Race Sag Setting Tool FORK SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL This unique fork spring compressor is designed to work on most current sport bikes and road racers. It allows the spring to be compressed while the fork cap is removed from the rod. It can be used on or off the bike on most models. 35-8680 TFSC01 Fork Spring Compressor Tool

Aprilia RXV 450 – 550 MAINTENANCE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 06-11-2010

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DIMENSIONS Max. length 2240 mm (88.19 in.) Max. width 830 mm (32.68 in.) Max. height (front fairing included) 1250 mm (49.21 in.) Seat height 950 mm (37.40 in) Wheelbase 1485 mm (58.46 in.) Minimum ground clearance 320 mm (12.60 in.) Dry weight 123 kg (271.12 lb) ENGINE Model (RXV 450) 45RX Model (RXV 550) 55RX Type twin-cylinder, 4-stroke with 4 valves per cylinder, single overhead camshaft Number of cylinders 2 Total displacement (RXV 450) 449 cu. cm (27.40 cu in). Total displacement (RXV 550) 553 cu. cm (33.75 cu in). Bore/stroke (RXV 450) 76 mm x 49.5 mm (2.99 in x 1.95 in) Bore/stroke (RXV 550) 80 mm x 55.0 mm (3.15 in x 2.16 in) Compression ratio (RXV 450) 13 ± 0.5 Compression ratio (RXV 550) 12.5 ± 0.5 Starting electric Engine idling rpm 1800 ÷ 2000 rpm Clutch Multiplate in oil bath. Lubricating system Double separate lubrication with external reservoir Air filter with dry filter cartridge Cooling system liquid-cooled TRANSMISSION Type mechanical, 5 gears with foot control on the left side of the engine CAPACITIES Fuel (including reserve) 7.5 l (1.98 gal) Fuel reserve 2.2 l (0.58 gal) Engine oil 1.3 l (0.34 gal) Fork oil 100 mm (3.94 in.) of air (per leg, measured without spring and compressed rod) Coolant 1.1 l (0.29 gal) (50% water + 50% coolant with ethylene glycol) Seat 1 GEAR RATIOS Ratio Primary Secondary Final ratio Total ratio 1st 22/56 = 1: 2.545 12/31 = 1: 2.583 15/48 = 1: 3.200 1 : 21.042 2nd 13/25 = 1: 1.923 1 : 15.664 3rd 15/23 = 1: 1.533 1 : 12.489 4th 19/24 = 1: 1.263 1 : 10.288 5th 21/22 = 1: 1.047 1 : 8.533 DRIVE CHAIN Type with master link

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How to Replacing Rear Main Seal 1

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

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The next day I woke up early and drank lots of coffee before going out to the garage. I knew I had two distinct problems confronting me. First, I would have to purchase an impact tool in order to loosen the six bolts holding the clutch together. Also, I would have to purchase at least three 8mm by 50mm bolts and nuts in order to prevent the clutch from exploding when the six bolts were unscrewed. For the third time in two days, I went to Sears and asked the salesman, (who I now I knew as Art,) where I could find an impact tool. He did not know what it was I was looking for, but he asked another employee and soon I had the tool as well as a 6mm Allen socket. Unfortunately, the Allen socket only came in 3/8″ drive, and the impact tool only came in 1/2″ drive. Thinking quickly, I purchased a 1/2″ to 3/8″ adapter, as well as a 3lb. dead- blow hammer. On the way home, I stopped at a Chief Auto Parts to buy the bolts I would need. The closest size they had were 8mm by 40mm, which was nearly 10mm too short. I was unsure whether the clutch cover bolts were coarse thread or fine thread, so I bought three of each, along with corresponding nuts. Finally, around 11 o’clock in the morning, I was back at the garage ready to work. I prepared the impact tool and placed the adapter and the Allen socket on it. I began to hammer on the end of the tool, trying to loosen each of the six bolts. None of them seemed to move, even though it seemed the impact tool was turning. Finally, I put the Allen socket on the breaker bar and found that all of the bolts had actually come loose. The tension from the clutch spring made it nearly impossible to see, however. I removed three of the bolts in a triangular pattern. Into these empty holes I threaded the fine- thread 40mm bolts with nuts attached and tightened them evenly. I was now able to remove the remaining Allen bolts. By slowly turning and loosening the nuts evenly on the 40mm bolts, I relieved the pressure from the clutch spring until the cover plate was free. I removed the cover plate, the clutch, the pressure plate, and finally the clutch spring. I had already marked each of the elements with Whiteout to insure that they would fit together the same way on installation. Apparently, this is essential as the flywheel could be rendered out-of-balance if the clutch components are not installed correctly. The flywheel itself was now exposed. I could see the five bolts that attached it to the crankshaft. I now used a tool I had fabricated. Although the manual describes two possible tools that can be fabricated, I found a piece of metal that resembled the tool and decided to use it. Unfortunately it was not strong enough and broke. I turned and looked at my workbench, and noticed a bracket which I had previously fabricated for mounting a mirror on my Vespa. The piece of steel was extremely strong and was already pre-drilled with correct-sized holes. It fit perfectly, so I placed it over the exposed bolt which protruded from the case, and placed the other end on one of the 40mm bolts, which I then bolted into the flywheel itself. I used the breaker bar again and removed the five bolts. The flywheel came loose after inserting two more 40mm bolts and tugging on them evenly

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Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool Instruction Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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System Function Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool (FI Tool) is developed to modify the mapping of the racing machine to gain operating conditions suitable for the course and the rider’s skill. The following are the available setting functions. Table 1 FI Tool Function Model Name Functions Available Setting Range ’04 ZX-10R ’05 ZX-6RR ’05 ZX-10R ’06 ZX-10R ’07 ZX-6R 1) Adjust the injected fuel rate at acceleration -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 2) Adjust the injected fuel rate of No.1 and No.4 cylinder -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 3) Adjust the injected fuel rate of No.2 and No.3 cylinder -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 4) Adjust the injected fuel rate of primary and secondary injector * -30 % ~ +30 % -10 % ~ +10 % — – — 〇 — – — – — 〇 5) Adjust the ignition timing -15°CA~ +5°CA 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 6) Adjust the sub-throttle opening angle -50 % ~ +50 % -45 % ~ +45 % 〇 — – 〇 〇 — 〇 — – 〇 7) Adjust the exhaust device opening angle -50 % ~ +50 % 〇 — 〇 〇 — 8) Adjust the all injected fuel rates of all cylinders and operating are a simultaneously -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 9) Adjust the value of engine over revolution limiter 0 ~ +300 rpm -1000 ~ +700rpm -1000 ~+1200rpm — – — 〇 — – — 〇 — – — 〇 〇 — – 10) Set the fuel cut or not at deceleration Use or Not Use 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 11) Set the sub throttle controlled or not Controlled or Full Open Fixed 〇 — – — – 12) Set the exhaust device controlled or not Controlled or Full Open Fixed 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 13) Set the Auto Shifter Ignition Cut Length Controlled or not, set Ig. Cut Time by gear range — – 〇 〇 〇 14) Set the Pit Road RPM Limit Controlled or not, set Upper Limit RPM by gear range

Honda XR600/ XR650L Camshaft Installation and removal Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 05-12-2011

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Remove the tappet covers. Remove the crankshaft cap and timing hole cap on the left engine case cover. Remove the spark plug. Rotate the engine in a counter clockwise direction. Position the engine at true top dead center (TDC) using the mark on the flywheel. True top dead center occurs when both the intake and exhaust valve are closed when the piston is at TDC. This is technically the end of the compression stroke and the beginning of the power stroke. The “artificial” TDC is during the overlap when both the intake and exhaust valves would be open. Since the rocker arms are located in the valve cover on an XR600, true TDC occurs when the cam lobes are pointed downward when the piston is at TDC. Remove the cylinder head cover. Warning, do not drop the locating dowels into the cam chain cavity. There are two dowels, one on either side of the cover. Remove and discard the gasket. Note the positioning of the cam lobes, this will help during installation of your new Hot Cams camshaft. Note also the location of the sealed bearing on the end of the camshaft and the direction in which it is facing. Loosen the bolts that hold the camshaft sprocket. Remove the lower camshaft sprocket bolt first, it will be necessary to rotate the engine. Rotate the engine back to TDC. Release the spring tension on the cam chain tensioner by lifting the end of the spring out of its hole in the tensioner block. A spring tool is a good method. Be careful not to scar the cylinder head’s gasket surface for the cylinder head cover. Remove the allen bolt that holds the end of the tensioner block shaft
just to the inside of the tensioner block. Note the location of the tensioner block shaft cap ridge. Using a pair of pliers pull the shaft out by grasping the ridge and using a clockwise rotation of the shaft while pulling outward. Pull the tensioner block upwards, out of the cylinder head. Remove the top camshaft sprocket bolt. Pull the sprocket off the camshaft but maintain upward tension, do not allow the chain to sag, it is possible for the chain to “slip” on the bottom sprocket of the crankshaft and change the cam timing. Remove the camshaft. Remove the cam bearings. Set the stock camshaft with the auto-decompression aside. It is not possible to use the auto-
decompression on the Hot Cams so do not attempt to re-install. Use a manual decompression. Install the bearings onto the new Hot Cam

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HONDA 2008 CRF 450 F SLIP-ON EXHAUST SYSTEM REPAIR MANUALS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 25-12-2011

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The Akrapovic Slip-On system is designed for recreational Honda CRF 450 enthusiasts. It delivers an excellent combination of quality, performance, visual enhancement, easy installation and affordability. The Akrapovic Slip-On is designed for two markets; in the US it is available with an approved spark arrester, and for the EU and other non-US markets it comes with a noise damper. PERFORMANCE Measurements of the Akrapovic SLIP-ON system on the HONDA CRF 450 R (with muffler insert): Power & Torque: Up to 5600 rpm the Akrapovic Slip-On essentially follows the stock power and torque curves. It shows its true colors above that range, where it delivers significant increases to both power and torque. Max. increased power of 2.8 HP was measured at 6600 rpm. At the top of the rpm range the Akrapovic curves again follow the stock power and torque curves. CONFIGURATION The system is composed of a flared stainless steel link pipe which is welded to the muffler. It is attached to the stock header assembly with a sleeve joint secured with a metal clamp. The muffler is the offroad design with a titanium outer sleeve, and stainless steel inlet cap, outlet cap and inner perforation. The muffler is attached to the frame using an Akrapovic carbon-fiber clamp. In the US the system is available with an approved spark arrester, and for the EU and other non-US markets it comes with a standard noise damper

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2003 Ducati ST4s Timing Belt Adjustment

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 31-10-2010

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This instruction on cam belt adjustment starts after you remove the fairing pieces. Plan on an hour to remove these. Since you are performing your own service, buying Ducati belts may not be that expensive. There may be another belt source, but I have not confirmed this for the 996 engine of the 02-03 ST4s. Fig 1 – ST4s ready for belt adj./ repl. Fig 2 – Crank tool installed. See dwg. 1) Ensure maximum of ½ tank of gas. Fuel will leak into the charcoal canister, then onto the floor if the tank is over half full and the tank is tilted up on its hinge. So put the tank up on its hinge. 2) Remove spark plugs. Cover sparkplug wells with boots or rags. This is a great time to toss out those Champions for a set of NGK DCPR8E’s. 3) Remove the front shield from the horizontal cylinder head. 4) Remove crankshaft cover on Riders LH side and insert crank tool. A crank tool can be made by following the drawing at the end of this document. See Fig 2 above. The flat head screws used are kind of soft so beware on their removal. 5) Remove oil pressure sending unit cable and remove oil sending unit. No oil should pour out. 6) Remove battery and remove bolts fastening battery box to engine/frame. You can let the battery box dangle or partially support it via a bungee cord. Be careful of the cable on the ground of the ECU. By dangling the battery box excess stress could be placed on this cables connector and you don’t want to troubleshoot an intermittent electrical issue. 7) Remove cam belt covers. The two covers over the cams are real easy. The center piece is removed by pulling it down. You may have to move some hoses and cables out Timing belt adj. doc 1
of the way because it is a tight fit. Removing the oil pressure sending unit gave clearance for the removal. Fig 1 shows bike ready to be worked on. On the Rider’s LH is a window on the case cover. Using a flashlight to illuminate the area, marks can be rotated into view using the engine turning tool. There are two marks denoting the TDC of each of the cylinders. When a mark in the window aligns with the pointer, look at the crank driving pulley on the Rider’s RH of the engine. If the driving pulley’s mark is aligned with the pointer on the engine case, you are at TDC horizontal cylinder. If the pulley mark and the pointer on the engine do not align, rotate the engine until the mark in the window on the Rider’s LH side case cover aligns as well as the pulley’s mark and the engine’s pointer. Fig 3 shows the engine pulley and pointer. You can check that the horizontal piston is at TDC by inserting a welding rod into the spark plug well and touch the top of the piston with it to sense its position. Timing marks on cam pulleys are clearly stamped on all four pulleys. When the crank driving pulley aligns with its corresponding pointer on the engine case and the marks on the pulleys align with their corresponding marks on both cylinders, you are in position for belt adjustment and replacement

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