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HARLEY DAVIDSON ROAD KING SOLO BUCKET AND PASSENGER PILLION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-02-2011

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Installation SOLO SADDLE ONLY 1. Remove stock seat and grabstrap according to applicable Service Manual instructions. 2. Road King standard models . Remove and save the stock screws and seat mount bracket at the back of the rider solo seat. 2000 and later models . Remove the retainer washer from the stud plate and replace with two black retainer washers (2). Be careful not to allow stud plate to fall through the fender. 3. Road King standard models . Install stock solo seat mount bracket using two stock screws saved in Step 2. Road King Classic Custom models . Install solo seat mount bracket onto back of solo seat using bracket and screws included in Mount Kit Number 52903-01. 4. Install seat by sliding front of seat into seat holder bracket. Pull up on the nose of the seat to verify that the seat is securely installed. After installing seat, pull upward on front of seat to be sure it is in locked position. While riding, a loose seat can shift causing loss of control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00070a) 5. 1999 and later models . Install 1/4 in. star washers (6), spacers (4) and acorn nuts (3) onto rear mount studs. Torque to 72 in-lbs (8.13 Nm). 1998 and earlier models . Install 5/16 in. star washers (5) and 5/16-18 x 3/4 in. buttonhead screws (1) into stock mount nuts. Torque to 17 ft-lbs (23 Nm). SOLOAND PILLION 1. Remove stock seat and grabstrap according to applicable Service Manual instructions. Retain all hardware for later use. 2. Road King standard models . Remove and save the stock screws and seat mount bracket at the back of the rider seat. 3. Road King standard models. Install stock seat mount bracket onto new solo seat using two screws saved in Step 2. Road King Classic Custom models. Install solo seat mount bracket onto back of solo seat using bracket and screws included in Mount Kit Number 52903-01. 4. 1999 and later Road King standard models . Secure the rear mount bracket with stock mushroom nuts (10) and two 1/4 in. star washers (6). Torque to 72 in-lbs (8.13 Nm). 1998 and earlier Road King standard models . Install solo seat by sliding front of seat into holder bracket on bike. Secure the rear mount bracket with the two mushroom screws (11) and two 5/16 in. star washers (5). Torque to 17 ft-lbs (23 Nm). Road King Classic Custom models . Mount Kit Number 52903-01 is required for installation. Install solo seat (7) by sliding front of seat into holder bracket on bike. • 1999 and later models . Using Mount Kit Number 52903-01, secure the rear mount bracket with the two mushroom nuts (10) and two 1/4 in. star washers (6). Torque to 72 in-lbs (8.13 Nm). • 1998 and earlier models . Using Mount Kit Number 52903-01, secure the rear mount bracket with the two mushroom screws (11) and two 5/16 in. star washers (5). Torque to 17 ft-lbs (23 Nm)

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SLOTTED HANDLEBAR RISER KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-02-2011

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INSTALLATION NOTE Cover the fuel tank with a clean shop towel to prevent scratching. Damage to the finish could result. 1. Remove the two hex head cap screws and split lock- washers on the underside of the upper fork bracket that hold the currently installed risers in place. Discard the screws, but retain the lockwashers for re-assembly. Retain all additional hardware components that become dislodged from the riser when the screws are removed. 2. Remove and discard the four screws that fasten the currently installed handlebar upper clamp(s) to the risers. Remove and discard the clamp(s). Remove the handlebar from the risers, and carefully allow the handlebar to rest on the fuel tank. 3. Obtain the new slotted risers (1) and hex head cap screws (2) from the kit, and the split lockwashers and hardware components removed in Step 1. NOTE The upper cup washer (A) must be oriented with the flat side up , and the lower cup washer (D) with the flat side down . The ground wire (G) and internal tooth lockwasher (H) are mounted to the right-side riser. 4. Refer to Figure 1 for the correct orientation and reassembly sequence. Install the new risers onto the upper fork bracket using the saved hardware and new screws. Snug the riser screws, but do not fully tighten at this time. 5. Center the handlebar on the risers. To make sure that the handlebar is centered, verify that the knurled areas on the outboard side of each riser are equal. 6. Position the new handlebar upper clamps (3) from the kit, and install with new hex socket head screws (4). Snug the upper screws, but do not fully tighten. Improperly aligned handlebars can contact the fuel tank when turned to the left or right. Contact with the fuel tank can cause cosmetic damage. (00372a) 7. Slowly turn the front wheel to the full right fork stop and then the full left fork stop to be sure the handlebar does not contact the fuel tank. If contact occurs and the handlebars are properly centered, raise the handlebar angle as necessary until proper clearance is attained. 8. Tighten the upper handlebar-clamp screws as follows: a. Tighten the front screws to 12-15 ft-lbs (16-20 Nm) . b. Tighten the rear screws to 12-15 ft-lbs (16-20 Nm) . c. Tighten the front screws to 12-15 ft-lbs (16-20 Nm) . NOTE The gap between the upper clamps and the risers should be equal at the front and rear of the handlebar after tightening. 9. One at a time, remove the riser bolts installed in Step 4. Apply two drops of Loctite® 271 (Red) to the bolt threads and re-install. Tighten the riser bolts to 50-60 ft-lbs (68-81 Nm)

How to Replacing Rear Main Seal 1

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

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The next day I woke up early and drank lots of coffee before going out to the garage. I knew I had two distinct problems confronting me. First, I would have to purchase an impact tool in order to loosen the six bolts holding the clutch together. Also, I would have to purchase at least three 8mm by 50mm bolts and nuts in order to prevent the clutch from exploding when the six bolts were unscrewed. For the third time in two days, I went to Sears and asked the salesman, (who I now I knew as Art,) where I could find an impact tool. He did not know what it was I was looking for, but he asked another employee and soon I had the tool as well as a 6mm Allen socket. Unfortunately, the Allen socket only came in 3/8″ drive, and the impact tool only came in 1/2″ drive. Thinking quickly, I purchased a 1/2″ to 3/8″ adapter, as well as a 3lb. dead- blow hammer. On the way home, I stopped at a Chief Auto Parts to buy the bolts I would need. The closest size they had were 8mm by 40mm, which was nearly 10mm too short. I was unsure whether the clutch cover bolts were coarse thread or fine thread, so I bought three of each, along with corresponding nuts. Finally, around 11 o’clock in the morning, I was back at the garage ready to work. I prepared the impact tool and placed the adapter and the Allen socket on it. I began to hammer on the end of the tool, trying to loosen each of the six bolts. None of them seemed to move, even though it seemed the impact tool was turning. Finally, I put the Allen socket on the breaker bar and found that all of the bolts had actually come loose. The tension from the clutch spring made it nearly impossible to see, however. I removed three of the bolts in a triangular pattern. Into these empty holes I threaded the fine- thread 40mm bolts with nuts attached and tightened them evenly. I was now able to remove the remaining Allen bolts. By slowly turning and loosening the nuts evenly on the 40mm bolts, I relieved the pressure from the clutch spring until the cover plate was free. I removed the cover plate, the clutch, the pressure plate, and finally the clutch spring. I had already marked each of the elements with Whiteout to insure that they would fit together the same way on installation. Apparently, this is essential as the flywheel could be rendered out-of-balance if the clutch components are not installed correctly. The flywheel itself was now exposed. I could see the five bolts that attached it to the crankshaft. I now used a tool I had fabricated. Although the manual describes two possible tools that can be fabricated, I found a piece of metal that resembled the tool and decided to use it. Unfortunately it was not strong enough and broke. I turned and looked at my workbench, and noticed a bracket which I had previously fabricated for mounting a mirror on my Vespa. The piece of steel was extremely strong and was already pre-drilled with correct-sized holes. It fit perfectly, so I placed it over the exposed bolt which protruded from the case, and placed the other end on one of the 40mm bolts, which I then bolted into the flywheel itself. I used the breaker bar again and removed the five bolts. The flywheel came loose after inserting two more 40mm bolts and tugging on them evenly

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HARLEY DAVIDSON XL BRAIDED FRONT BRAKE LINE KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 30-03-2011

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REMOVAL Direct contact of D.O.T. 5 brake fluid with eyes can cause eye irritation, swelling, and redness. Avoid eye contact. In case of eye contact flush with large amounts of water and get medical attention. Swallowing large amounts of D.O.T. 5 brake fluid can cause digestive discomfort. If swallowed, obtain medical attention. Use in well ventilated area. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. (00144a) Direct contact of D.O.T. 4 brake fluid with eyes can cause irritation. Avoid eye contact. In case of eye contact flush with large amounts of water and get medical attention. Swallowing large amounts of D.O.T. 4 brake fluid can cause digestive discomfort. If swallowed, obtain medical attention. Use in well ventilated area. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. (00240a) D.O.T. 4 brake fluid will damage painted and body panel surfaces it comes in contact with. Always use caution and protect surfaces from spills whenever brake work is performed. Failure to comply can result in cosmetic damage. (00239b) 1. Drain the brake fluid following the instructions in the service manual. Dispose of waste properly. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 2. Disconnect the battery, negative (-) cable first or remove the main fuse. Follow the instructions in the service manual 3. Remove bolt and two sealing washers to disconnect brake line fitting from master cylinder. Discard sealing washers, but save bolt for installation. 4. Remove bolt and two sealing washers to disconnect brake line fitting from front brake caliper. Discard sealing washers, but save bolt for installation. 5. Carefully make note of brake line routing, then remove existing brake line. NOTE This kit contains clamps and cable straps to either replace the original equipment clamps and cable straps being removed or to add additional brake line support. INSTALLATION Install proper length brake lines. Incorrect brake line length can adversely affect motorcycle operation, which could cause loss of control resulting in death or serious injury. (00325a) Replace brake line gaskets. Re-using original gaskets can cause brake failure and loss of vehicle control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00318a) Avoid leakage. Be sure gaskets, banjo bolt(s) and brake line are clean and undamaged before assembly. (00323a) 1. Position new sealing washers from kit on each side of hydraulic brake fittings (banjo fittings). Small ID washers are for caliper end, large ID washers are for master cylinder end. 2. Insert bolts (removed earlier) through washers and fittings. 3. Hold new braided brake line in position and install bolts into master cylinder and caliper. Tighten only enough to keep banjo fitting in the same orientation as the stock banjo fitting. 4. Verify there is no twist in the brake line. Adjust brake line if necessary. 5. Install clamps from kit by wrapping clamp around braided brake line at each of the clamp mounting locations. Verify clamps are oriented the same as the stock clamps. Install clamp screws but do not tighten. 6. Check entire length of braided brake line: a. Be sure brake line is not twisted. b. Turn handlebars fully-left and right while checking to make sure brake line does not contact any vehicle components. c. Be sure brake line length between clamps is sufficient. 7. Adjust brake line if necessary. 8. Tighten caliper and master cylinder banjo bolts to 20-25 ft-lbs (27-34 Nm) .

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GL1800 Goldwing Trike Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Disassembly of motorcycle: 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand or lift. 2. Set the shock preload to zero. 3. Remove the four m8 x 1.25 SHCS from the passenger handles and remove seat. 4. Remove the rear side covers. 5. Disconnect negative battery terminal. 6. Remove the four m8 x 1.25 SHCS and the passenger floorboards. 7. Remove the six m5 x 0.80 BHCS and the foot rest under cover. 8. Remove the six m5 x .80 BHCS and the swing arm pivot bolt covers. 9. Remove the four m8 x 1.25 flange bolts on the rear crash guards. Remove and discard the rear crash guards and bolts. 10. Remove the four #2 Phillips head screws from the inside of the trunk to remove the trim pieces on the sides. 11. Remove the two #2 Phillips head screws in the rear trim molding and remove molding. 12. Remove the seven #2 Phillips head screws from the lower trunk cover. Remove the lower trunk cover. 13. Remove the five #2 Phillips head screws from the trunk opener cover. Remove the trunk opener cover. 14. Disconnect the left and right saddlebag release cables. 15. Remove the five m6 x 1.0 BHCS in the rear fender panel. Remove and discard the rear fender panel and cap screws. 16. Disconnect the trunk wiring. 17. Remove the four m6 x 1.0 flange screws. Remove the trunk from the saddlebag / trunk stay. 7 18. 2005 and older 2005 and older 2005 and older 2005 and older ABS equipped motorcycles: ABS equipped motorcycles: ABS equipped motorcycles: ABS equipped motorcycles: Remove rubber bungee from ABS Control Unit, and save for reinstallation. 19. Remove the two side cover grommets from each saddlebag. ( 4 grommets total ) 20. Remove the left and right hand saddlebag latches, strikers, and release cables for core parts return. Refer to Honda service manual. 21. Remove the left and right saddlebag taillights and sub- harnesses for core parts return . Refer to Honda service manual. 22. Remove the four m6 x 1.0 flange bolts from each saddlebag. Remove and discard the saddlebags. 23. Remove the six m6 x 1.0 flange bolts from the exhaust tips. Slide the tip off the muffler body. Save tips and bolts for reinstallation. 24. Loosen the four m8 x 1.25 SHCS on the muffler clamps. Remove the two m8 x 1.25 flange bolts. Remove and discard the mufflers and muffler gaskets. 25. Remove the four m6 x 1.0 BHCS, two rubber washers, and front fender A. 26. Remove the four m5 x .80 BHCS and chrome front fender covers. 27. 2006 & UP. 2006 & UP. 2006 & UP. 2006 & UP. Remove the Remove the Remove the Remove the two m6 x two m6 x two m6 x two m6 x 1.0 flange bolts on 1.0 flange bolts on 1.0 flange bolts on 1.0 flange bolts on rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. 28. Unplug connector and remove amp and save for Unplug connector and remove amp and save for Unplug connector and remove amp and save for Unplug connector and remove amp and save for reinstallation. reinstallation. reinstallation. reinstallation. 29. Cut lower saddlebag supports off the saddlebag/trunk stay, where the round tubing meets the square, and cut the gusset flush, removing any burrs. See Figure 1. 30. Remove trunk stay for later use. 31. Remove the two m5 x .80 nuts on the license plate light. Remove and discard the license plate ligh

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Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom and Classic cruisers Floorboard/ Footpeg Extension Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.

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2000 Honda Rancher ATV Winch Mounting Kit REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 13-01-2012

Begin by removing the front fascia and front skid plate on the vehicle as shown in figure 1. Save the fasteners as they will be used later to re-install the front fascia and skid plate. 2. Remove the 8mm bolts on both sides located inside the front tires and on the ends of two horizontal tubes on the front tube frame as shown in figure 2. 3. Place the mounting plate (A1) inside the front tube frame. The tabs with the slotted holes facing down. The slotted tabs should align where the
two 8mm bolts were removed in step 2. Reinstall these two bolts at this time thighten to just fingertight. Install the two 1/4-20 u-bolts (B3) and locking hex nuts (B1) and flat washers (B7) at thism time see figure 3, do not tighten down at this time. so the plate can be adjusted for position see figure 2. 4. Place the rear support bracket (A4) into position
and attach with the two 5/16-18 x 3/4 hex cap screws (B6), flat washer (B5) and locking nut (B4). Adjust the position of the support bracket so that it comes in contact with the frame tubes and tighten the fasteners see figures 3 and 4.
Make sure the support bracket maintains contact with the rear frame tubes and tighten down the two front 8mm mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to a recommended torque of 12 ft-lb (17 N-m). 5. Attach the fairlead bracket support (A2) to the front frame tubes see figure 5. The support bracket attaches behind the front tubes. Space the bracket away from the tubes using the spacer brackets (A3). Attach the brackets using the 1/4- 20 u-bolts (B2), lock nuts (B1) and flat washers (B7). Before tightening the u-bolts make sure the bracket is in the correct position by fitting the front
fasica into postion and checking location. Tighten the nuts to a recommended torque of 7 ft-lb (10 N-m). NOTE: If this kit is being installed on a 00 to 03 Honda the wider fairlead bracket (A2) will need to be used. This will require the use of the
wider u-bolts (B3). The spacer brkts (A3) will not be required when installing the wider fairlead brkt

YAMAHA ROADLINER AND STRATOLINER LAY DOWN LICENSEPLATE/ TAIL LIGHT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the license plate. Remove the license plate holder assembly from the rear fender (three 8mm Allen bolts 5mm wrench). Remove the five 4mm Allen screws underneath the rear fender which secure the taillight/turn signal assembly to the rear fender (3mm wrench). As shown in photo #2, pull the taillight assembly out away from the fender, turn it over, place a towel or rag between the light and fender and allow it to rest on the fender. 2. Locate the supplied triangular license plate mounting block, two 8 x 20mm Allen screws with holes driiled thru and three rubber washers. Place the two Allen screws thru the upper holes in the block and the rubber washers over the screws on the backside of the block. Start the screws into the upper holes on the fender. Use one of the three screws removed earlier from the original mount in the remaining lower hole of the new block sliding the remaining rubber washer between the block and fender. Tighten all three Allen screws secure enough to compress the rubber washers (4-6 ft lbs.). 3. Locate the supplied license plate mounting plate and LED lights. Cut off the excess red and black wires at the end of the black loom or tube. Referring to photo (1) thread the wires of the LED lights thru the small holes in the mounting plate, peel the cover from the adhesive backing on the lights and press them firmly into place as shown. 4. Locate the three supplied ¼” x ½” flat head Allen screws. Hold the plate up to the mounting block installed earlier with the wires at the bottom of the plate. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the holes in the upper bolts of the block. Install the plate onto the block using the three flat head screws being sure to keep the exposed wire behind he plate as short as possible and fitting into the slot or cut out at the edge of the block. Snug the screws and again check to see tat the wires are in the slot or cut out in the block and do not become pinched as the screws are tightened. Tighten the screws securely. 5. Where the wires from the taillight go thru the fender there is a grommet, pull this grommet out from the fender. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the grommet with the other wires. Replace the grommet into the fender and remove any slack from the wires under the fender. Cut the LED wires off at 6″ past the grommet. 6. Referring to photo (2) remove 2″ of the black tubing exposing the red and black wires on the LEDs. Locate the supplied brake/tail light dual function element (a red wire at one end with a red and orange wire at the other) and wire connectors. Cut all three wires on the dual element to 3″ long. Strip the end of the single red wire on the element and both of the red wires from the LEDs then connect them using one of the blue butt connectors. Connect the two black wires from the LEDs to any one of the black wires on the tail light or signals using one of the supplied splice connectors (place both black wires into one of the holes on the connector). Using the remaining splice connectors attach the red wire from the dual element to the yellow wire on the tail light and the orange wire to the blue wire on the tail light. Turn on the ignition and check that the LEDs are working both as tail and brake lights when the brakes are applied.

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YAMAHA ROADLINER AND STRATOLINER LAY DOWN LICENSEPLATE/ TAIL INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the license plate. Remove the license plate holder assembly from the rear fender (three 8mm Allen bolts 5mm wrench). Remove the five 4mm Allen screws underneath the rear fender which secure the taillight/turn signal assembly to the rear fender (3mm wrench). As shown in photo #2, pull the taillight assembly out away from the fender, turn it over, place a towel or rag between the light and fender and allow it to rest on the fender. 2. Locate the supplied triangular license plate mounting block, two 8 x 20mm Allen screws with holes driiled thru and three rubber washers. Place the two Allen screws thru the upper holes in the block and the rubber washers over the screws on the backside of the block. Start the screws into the upper holes on the fender. Use one of the three screws removed earlier from the original mount in the remaining lower hole of the new block sliding the remaining rubber washer between the block and fender. Tighten all three Allen screws secure enough to compress the rubber washers (4-6 ft lbs.). 3. Locate the supplied license plate mounting plate and LED lights. Cut off the excess red and black wires at the end of the black loom or tube. Referring to photo (1) thread the wires of the LED lights thru the small holes in the mounting plate, peel the cover from the adhesive backing on the lights and press them firmly into place as shown. 4. Locate the three supplied ¼” x ½” flat head Allen screws. Hold the plate up to the mounting block installed earlier with the wires at the bottom of the plate. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the holes in the upper bolts of the block. Install the plate onto the block using the three flat head screws being sure to keep the exposed wire behind he plate as short as possible and fitting into the slot or cut out at the edge of the block. Snug the screws and again check to see tat the wires are in the slot or cut out in the block and do not become pinched as the screws are tightened. Tighten the screws securely. 5. Where the wires from the taillight go thru the fender there is a grommet, pull this grommet out from the fender. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the grommet with the other wires. Replace the grommet into the fender and remove any slack from the wires under the fender. Cut the LED wires off at 6″ past the grommet.

1999-2001 DUCATI Monster INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 25-10-2010

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It is essential to use Blue Loc-tite on all nuts and bolts. Remove any other steering stabilizers. 2) Cover the tank with an old sweatshirt or protective device so you don’t scratch it. 3) General concept for this mount: The new key cover is the anchor point for the stabilizer, so it must be fitted correctly as per the instructions below. The base of the new key cover must sit flush all the way around to provide the support needed. The bolt lengths are critical, so be sure you read the instructions carefully so you know which bolts go in which spots! 4) Remove the (4) 8x85mm Allen bolts that hold your handlebars tight. There are plastic plugs in the tops of these bolts that must be removed before you can access the Allen head. Replace the stock top barclamp with the one provided in the kit. 5) Tighten the 4 bolts evenly so the gaps between upper and lower perches, front to back, are even. 6) Remove the (2) 6x12mm Allen bolts and the plastic key cover that covers your key switch. 7) Fit the new billet aluminum key cover over the key switch and be sure the new cover is sitting down flush all the way around on the frame. It needs to be touching the frame to function properly. We’ve machined this part to fit precisely on the bike but each bike can vary slightly due to machining variations from the Ducati Factory. The new key cover should center itself by locating on the 2 spacer/nuts underneath. You might need to loosen the 2 bolts on the underside of the frame to allow those spacer/nuts to find their centering point on our key cover. 8) Note: Your stock key switch itself has a casting knub near its base that could restrict our new cover from sitting all the way down flush. We’ve machined a clearance notch inside our part for this knub to fit into, but it is possible it could vary from bike to bike, which might require a bit more clearance filing. Be sure the key cover is sitting down flush against the frame. 9) We’ve machined the key cover to fit over a 20mm spacer nut / .805″. If for some reason the stock “spacer/nuts” are too tall, you may have to file them slightly to allow the Billet key cover to sit down flush and touch the frame. 10) Once the key switch cover is flush against the frame, all the way around it’s base, retighten the bolts that hold the spacer/nuts secure from the under side of the frame using Loc-tite. Reinstall the (2) 6x12mm stock key cover bolts to a maximum of 6-ft/lbs . The stock key cover bolts are designed to engage 6mm of thread in the spacer nut. Do not be tempted to use any longer bolts than 6x12mm or they can prematurely bottom out which will keep the key cover from tightening. Shorter than 6×12 or if the cover is not flush, makes it possible to damage the threads. Double check these key-cover bolts after your first ride, as they may loosen after initial movement from the damper

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