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WILDFIRE WFH50-S2 Gas Scooter Owner's Manual

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 21-11-2010

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Main Switches On Position: • Electrical circuits are switched on. The engine can be started and the key can not be removed. • Do not leave the main switch in the on position for an extended period of time if the engine is not running Off Position: • All electrical circuits are off and the engine is stopped. The key can be removed in this position. Steering Lock Position: • Turn the handlebars to the left as far as they will turn, turn the key to the lock position and remove. Steering Lock Position On Position Off Position Wildfire WFH50-S2 Maintenance Table The X indicates at how many miles you need to check the Item. Must change oil: change before riding, again at 500 miles and then 2500 or yearly which ever comes first. Capacities Fuel Capacity: 1 gallon Final drive oil capacity: 3.5 ounces Tire air pressure: Front 28 psi and rear 32 psi. ITEM 500 1000 20002500 3500 40004500 5000 60006500 Check Daily Engine Oil and Filter X X X X X X Gear Oil X X X X Valve Clearance X X Cam Chain X X Carburetor X X Air Cleaner Clean Every 1500 miles, Replace Every 3500 miles Fuel Filter Clean Every 1000 miles, Replace if Necessary Brake System X X X X X X X Drive Belt X Screws and Nuts X X X X X *When riding in a dusty environment, check and clean the air filter element more often. Battery • This scooter uses a sealed lead acid battery, it is unnecessary to check or add liquid. NOTE: Never open the electrolyte of a sealed battery. Remove the battery from the scooter and store separately in a well ventilated area when the scooter is not in operation for long periods of time Speedometer • Speed is measured in mph. Odometer • The total riding distance is indicated. Fuel gauge • The gauge indicates how much fuel is in the tank (the gauge does not work when the ignition switch is off). The needle moves from full “F” to empty “E” as your fuel decreases. Fill the tank with a good grade of 89-90 octane unleaded gasoline. High Beam Indicator LIght • The high beam light indicates that the high beam headlight is in use. NOTE: Apply the low beam to avoid obstructing the view of other drivers. Turn Signal Indication Light • The turn signals indicate that you are turning a chosen direction, push the button in the desired turning direction, it will return to the center, press the button in to turn off. Speedometer Odometer Turn Signal Indication Light High Beam Indication Light Fuel Gauge 4 General Safety Precaution • Scooters can be hazardous to operate. Please operate it with the following safety instruction. If you fail to take proper precautions, a collision or fall may quickly occur. If you have any questions as to the operating condition of your scooter, turn off the engine and walk your scooter. These scooters should be ridden by persons with good vision, balance, coordination, reflex, strength and decision making capability. • Please read this manual and all safety labels carefully, and follow correct operating procedures. • Before each time you ride make sure that the brakes work properly. • Never operate your scooter without wearing proper safety equipment that includes helmet, shoes, etc… • Never operate your scooter under influence of alcohol or drugs. • Always ride with both hands on the handle bars. • Never operate at excessive speeds. Proper speed is determined by terrain, visibility, operating condition and experience. • Never attempt wheelies, jumps or other stunts. • Always inspect your scooter prior to each use to make sure all bolts are tight, and is in safe operating condition.

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ULTIMA IGNITION MODULE AND KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL FOR HARLEY DAVIDSON

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-03-2011

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Disconnect battery. 2. Mark location of timing plate in relation to inside of cam cover. This will give a starting point for timing on new module. Remove old ignition if applicable (see manual) Clymer, Haynes. 3. If your bike is not equipped with timing rotor M/W# 53-528 OEM#32402-83 you must buy one (included in kit). Also a single fire coil is needed (included in kit) M/W# 53-632. Any single fire coil rated 2-4 ohms can be used. NO SOLID CORE PLUG WIRES (copper, silver) they will damage the unit. 4. Install module: helpful hints, early model nose cones, i.e. Shovel Heads, the hole for the wire may need to be drilled out. Align with previously scripted mark for timing. Use lockwashers for stand offs for correct clearance of cover plate. Run wire loom. 5. Connect wires, see wiring diagram. Tape unused wires, green or brown. 12v to tach (brown) will damage module. Set timing. 1996 and later should not be timed 20˚ BTDC as the OEM module, but at 35˚ BTDC. Use this mark when using timing light. If VOESswitch is not used you must ground VOES wire (green) while timing. Refer to manual for correct identification of timing marks. At start up and timing, set spark advance in middle position. FUNCTION SWITCHES LED timing indicator light: When out, shows TDC. When ignition is on, LED will light up. When engine is cranking LED will blink. Electric Start/Kickstart: Set accordingly. VOES/Race mode: VOES switch lets the motor run smoother and improves gas mileage. If you don’t use it or add one tape up green wire and switch to race. VOES switch to use, M/W# 53-652. Spark advance: High compression motors should use race mode and 93 octane or better gas. Changing from VOES to race changes advance curves. Agood rule of thumb is if the engine knocks when throttle is applied in high gear, turn back spark advance curve until it stops engine knock. RPMlimiter: Set at desired RPM to cut engine power. Rear Cylinder: This is for racing and should be set at a dyno. +/-5˚. Rear cylinder timing is achieved through this adjuster. Most should dial to middle setting and leave alone. After all switches are set, install cover with supplied gasket and feel the increased performance of a solid state single fire ignition. Again, we remind you, if you don’t feel confident about installing this unit, let a qualified mechanic do it and be assured you are getting the best performance and gas mileage possible.

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YAMAHA XS650H/ SH Supplementary Service Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 21-11-2010

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Ignition timing check 1. Ignition timing is checked with a timing light by observing the position of the rotor pointer and the marks stamped on the timing plate. The timing plate is marked as follows. “ll” Firing range for No. 1 (L.H.) “T” Top Dead Center for No. 1, fL.H.1 cylinder 2. Connect the timing light to the left cylinder spark plug lead wire. 3. Start the engine and keep the engine speed as specified. Use a tachometer to check the engine speed. B. PICK-UP COIL ASSEMBLY The method of mounting the pick-up coil assembly is changed for easier service work. Thus, the followings “Pick-up coil assembly removal” and “Pick-up coil assembly reinstallation” should be changed. Pick-up coil assembly removal Remove the pick-up coil securing screws and remove the pick-up coil assembly. Pick-up coil assembly reinstallation Install the pick-up coil assembly on to the stator assembly. _ L 4. Specified engine speed: 1,200 r/min The rotor pointer should be within the limits of ” fl ” on the timing plate. If it exceeds the limits or does not steady, check the timing plate for tight- ness and/or ignition system for damage. NOTE: Ignition timing is not adjustable. C. FUEL LEVEL The carburetor is furnished with a drain screw to provide easy access to service work. Thus, the following “Fuel level measurement” should be added. Fuel level measurement NOTE: Before checking the fuel level, note the follow- ing: 1. Place the motorcycle on a level surface. 2. Adjust the motorcycle position by placing a suitable stand or a garage jack under the engine so that the carburetor is positioned vertically. 1. 2. Connect the level gauge (special tool) or a vinyl pipe of 6 mm (0.24 in) in inside diameter to the float bowl nozzle left or right side carburetor. Set the gauge as shown and loosen the drain screw 3. Start the engine and stop it after a few minutes of run. This procedure is neces- sary to obtain the correct fuel level. NOTE: Make sure the fuel petcock is “ON” or “RES” oosition. 4. Note the fuel level and bring the gauge to the other end of the carburetor line and repeat step 3 above. Note the fuel level again and compare it with the previous gauge reading. They should be equal. If not, place a suitable size of wooden piece or the. alike under the center stand and adjust. 5. Check the fuel level one by one. The level should be in the specified range.

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Harley-Davidson Electronic Ignition Module Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-04-2012

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Step 1: Switch main dashboard switch to “off” position (Ignition& light switch) Step 2: Disconnect negative (ground) cable from the Battery Step 3: Remove the Condenser and Breaker points from the circuit breaker timing base. Step 4: Disconnect advance/ retard cable from timing base Step 5: Remove timing base from timer shaft and housing (see your manual for instructions) Step 6: Remove circuit breaker wire stud or circuit breaker to coil wire assembly from timing base Step 7: Remove circuit breaker wire from Ignition coil, and mark terminal on coil with piece of tape. Step 8: Install the Electronic Ignition Module on the timing base. Mount this short black wire to one on the timer base screws by keeping some slack in this wire so the timing base can turn free. Solder the flag terminal to this short black wire and mount it under the timer to motor bolt. This way of mounting provides a much better grounding. Do NOT use the screws (number 1 or 2 screws from picture below) from the timing base!!!! Step 9: Now three wires pass this hole via the rubber grommet. Figure 1 Figure 2 Step 10: Reinstall the timer base on the timer shaft housing, and keep some slack in the wires before protruding the hole in the timer shaft housing, and secure with ground spring and cover retainer. Reconnect the advance/retard cable to the timer base. Step 11: Route the two long wires to the ignition coil. Check in the HD service manual for a proper route to the ignition coil. (Keep away from hot surfaces like exhaust systems). Cut the wires to the exact length necessary for mounting. Step 12: Determine the exact length of the wire loom. Keep in mind that one end of the loom enters the timer shaft housing by 1cm. Cut the loom to the proper length. Step 13: Insert both wires in the loom. Strip both wire ends and solder the two flag terminals on the wires. Step 14: Connect the red wire to the ignition coil, on the terminal where the 6 or 12 volt is supplied to. This terminal has at minimum one wire connected which runs to the main switch. Step 15: Connect the black wire to the ignition coil on the terminal which is empty, and has piece of tape on it. (Old place where the circuit breaker wire was connected to) Step 16: Install the trigger rotor on the timer shaft cam, and tighten the hex screw by using the hex key tool. Do not over tighten the screw! Step 17: Check for clearance between trigger rotor and Electronic Ignition Module. Appropriate clearance is between 0,5mm and 1,5mm . Minor adjustments can be made by unlocking the two screws and slightly shift/move the Electronic Ignition Module. Check if the rotor moves free. Timing instructions: Remove the spark plugs from the engine, but keep them connected to the spark coil cables and engine ground. This enables normal operation of the spark, and prevents unwanted engine firing on compression stroke. See service manual or handbook for timing instructions of your model Step 18: Reconnect the negative (ground) cable to the battery. Step 19: Switch main power to “on” position. The red light in the Electronic Ignition Module might already light up. If not, turn the kick starter slowly. The red light is on while charging (closed points)the Ignition coil, facing solid metal of the trigger rotor. The light goes off (open points) when the end of the solid surface of the trigger rotor passes the centre of the Electronic Ignition Module. At that point a spark is generated by the coil

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Wildfire WFH 150-T Touring Scooter Specification And Owner's Manual

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Filed Under (Wildfire) by admin on 29-11-2010

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Engine Oil Replacement • Replace the engine oil after the first 50 miles or 1 hour with 5w50, 10w50 or 15W50 synthetic engine oil. Then replace again every 1,500 miles or 1 each year. Check oil level every 500 miles, add oil if needed. Changing the Engine Oil (1).Warm up the engine for a few minutes. (2).Stop the engine. (3). Place scooter on center stand. (4).Place an oil pan under the engine and remove the dipstick. (5).Remove the drain plug and drain the oil. Reach in drain hole, pull out filter clean and reinstall, after all oil drains out. (6).Reinstall drain plug. (7). Fill the engine with oil until the level is in the designated area on the dipstick. (8).Start the engine and check for oil leaks. If a leak is found stop the engine immediately and look for cause. Rear Wheel Oil Replacement • Replace the gear oil after the first 500 miles with 5W/50 synthetic engine oil. Replace the gear oil again every 4 months or every 2000 miles. • Replacing the Gear Oil (1).Put the scooter on the center stand (please see photo below) . (2).Place an oil pan under the gear case (please see photo below) . (3).Remove the oil filler bolt and the drain plug to drain the oil (please see photo below) . (4).Reinstall and tighten the drain plug. (5).Fill the gear case with oil (please see photo below) . (6).Reinstall the oil filler bolt. (7).Check for oil leakage. Cleaning Air Cleaner Be sure to check the air cleaner regularly. (1).Place the scooter on the center stand. (2).Unscrew and remove the left side panel. (3).Remove the air cleaner cover by removing the screws. (4).Take out the air cleaner by removing the screws. (5).Remove the air cleaner element and wash it gently, but thoroughly in solvent. Replace if damaged. (6).Squeeze out the excess solvent and dry it. (7).Apply oil to the entire surface of the air cleaner and squeeze out the excess oil. It should be damp but not dripping. (8).Install the air cleaner, cleaner cover, and left side panel. center stand 1 oil pan 2 3 oil drain plug oil pan 5 Main Switches On Position: • Electrical circuits are switched on. The engine can be started and the key can not be removed.

2003 Ducati ST4s Timing Belt Adjustment

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 31-10-2010

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This instruction on cam belt adjustment starts after you remove the fairing pieces. Plan on an hour to remove these. Since you are performing your own service, buying Ducati belts may not be that expensive. There may be another belt source, but I have not confirmed this for the 996 engine of the 02-03 ST4s. Fig 1 – ST4s ready for belt adj./ repl. Fig 2 – Crank tool installed. See dwg. 1) Ensure maximum of ½ tank of gas. Fuel will leak into the charcoal canister, then onto the floor if the tank is over half full and the tank is tilted up on its hinge. So put the tank up on its hinge. 2) Remove spark plugs. Cover sparkplug wells with boots or rags. This is a great time to toss out those Champions for a set of NGK DCPR8E’s. 3) Remove the front shield from the horizontal cylinder head. 4) Remove crankshaft cover on Riders LH side and insert crank tool. A crank tool can be made by following the drawing at the end of this document. See Fig 2 above. The flat head screws used are kind of soft so beware on their removal. 5) Remove oil pressure sending unit cable and remove oil sending unit. No oil should pour out. 6) Remove battery and remove bolts fastening battery box to engine/frame. You can let the battery box dangle or partially support it via a bungee cord. Be careful of the cable on the ground of the ECU. By dangling the battery box excess stress could be placed on this cables connector and you don’t want to troubleshoot an intermittent electrical issue. 7) Remove cam belt covers. The two covers over the cams are real easy. The center piece is removed by pulling it down. You may have to move some hoses and cables out Timing belt adj. doc 1
of the way because it is a tight fit. Removing the oil pressure sending unit gave clearance for the removal. Fig 1 shows bike ready to be worked on. On the Rider’s LH is a window on the case cover. Using a flashlight to illuminate the area, marks can be rotated into view using the engine turning tool. There are two marks denoting the TDC of each of the cylinders. When a mark in the window aligns with the pointer, look at the crank driving pulley on the Rider’s RH of the engine. If the driving pulley’s mark is aligned with the pointer on the engine case, you are at TDC horizontal cylinder. If the pulley mark and the pointer on the engine do not align, rotate the engine until the mark in the window on the Rider’s LH side case cover aligns as well as the pulley’s mark and the engine’s pointer. Fig 3 shows the engine pulley and pointer. You can check that the horizontal piston is at TDC by inserting a welding rod into the spark plug well and touch the top of the piston with it to sense its position. Timing marks on cam pulleys are clearly stamped on all four pulleys. When the crank driving pulley aligns with its corresponding pointer on the engine case and the marks on the pulleys align with their corresponding marks on both cylinders, you are in position for belt adjustment and replacement

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4-STROKE TRIUMPH SINGLE CYLINDER MOTORCYCLES ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1. Remove the petrol tank (and seat if necessary) to gain access to the ignition coil, condensor and wiring. 2. For safety, disconnect the battery, if fitted (preferably both terminals). 3. Remove the spark plug. 4. Remove the alternator rotor cover (if fitted). 5. Loosen the auto-advance centre bolt. Rotate the engine to the correct full advance timing position for your machine (see table on page 6), using one of these methods: • Models from 1967 on: use the marks provided for strobe timing on the rotor & chaincase (inside the rotor cover). Unless these marks are known to be accurate it is recommended that they are checked for correct alignment. These marks should line up at the full advance position, check using one of the methods below and, if necessary, re-mark the rotor. • Models from 1969 on: use the timing plug on the left-hand crankcase • Use a degree disc on the crankshaft / camshaft (see table on page 6) • Use a dial guage down the spark plug hole (see table on page 6) 5. Remove kickstart, gear lever and outer timing cover. 6. Remove the contact-breaker plate and lead from the outer timing cover. 7. Taking the ignition trigger assembly, insert a small cable tie into the two holes in front of the connector block on the ignition trigger. This will be used later to secure the two wires to the plate. 8. Fit the ignition trigger plate with the adjustable slots at approx. 6 & 12 o’clock, using the original pillar fixings & washers, positioned in the centre of the slots (to allow for adjustment in either direction). Handle the trigger with care. • RED EARTHING WIRE • CRIMP CONNECTORS & INSULATORS • LARGE & SMALL CABLE TIES • CABLE TIE ADHESIVE MOUNTING BASE 3
9. Remove the centre bolt securing the auto-advance unit. Remove the complete auto-advance unit with an extractor bolt or by tapping it gently sideways. 10. Fit the magnetic rotor in place of the auto-advance unit, with the magnets/ red marks positioned at approx. 3 & 9 o’clock. The magnetic rotor has a male taper which fits into the taper in the end of the camshaft. There is no keyway, allowing it to be fitted in any desired position. 11. Using the ¼” washer and the appropriate bolt (UNF or BSF), pass the bolt through the centre of the magnetic rotor and into the thread in the camshaft. Finger tighten only at this stage. The magnetic rotor centre thread (metric M8) is provided for attaching a puller, if the rotor should need to be removed for engine servicing, etc. 12. Replace the outer timing cover, gear lever & kickstart. 13. Check that the engine is still at the correct full advance position, then adjust the magnetic rotor position so that one of the red marks is centrally behind the static timing hole at 9 o’clock (see fig. 4, page 7). If your machine’s camshaft rotates clockwise, refer to fig. 3. Gently tap the rotor into the taper & tighten the centre bolt, using a 3/16″ allen key. WIRING: 14. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. Avoid coiling up surplus lead.

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2003 – 2007 4Runner OIL LEAK FROM FRONT TIMING COVER

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 31-10-2011

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evidence of a small oil leak located where the Bank 1 cylinder head, engine block, and timing cover meet. Use the following repair procedure to address this condition. 2003 – 2007 model year 4Runner vehicles equipped with the 1GR-FE engine and produced BEFORE the Production Change Effective VINs shown below. MODEL PLANT DRIVETRAIN PRODUCTION CHANGE EFFECTIVE VIN 2WD JTEZU17R#68064608 Hino 2WD JTEZU14R#78076191 4Runner Hino 4WD JTEBU14R#78078323 4Runner 4WD JTEBU14R#78090468 Tahara 2WD JTEZU14R#70091230 Tahara 4WD JTEBU14R#70117349 OP CODE DESCRIPTION TIME OFP T1 T2 EG7036 Reseal FrontTiming Cover with FIPG 2WD7.6 113100P0306548 EG7036 Reseal Front Timing Cover with FIPG 4WD8.5 11310-0P030 65 48 Applicable Warranty*: This repair is covered under the Toyota Powertrain Warranty. This warranty is in effect for 60 months or 60,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle’s in-service date. *Warranty application is limited to correction of a problem based upon a customer’s specific complaint

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Vespa Zafferano 125cc (50cc) Specification

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Filed Under (Vespa) by admin on 11-11-2010

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single cylinder four stroke LEADER, with two-way catalytic converter and secondary air system (Single-cylinder Hi-Per2 two-stroke, with two-way catalytic converter and secondary air system) Capacity 124cc (50cc) Cooling Forced Air Starter Electric and kick starter Transmission Automatic Twist and Go Front suspension Single arm link with coil spring and double acting hydraulic shock absorber Rear suspension Coil spring and double acting hydraulic shock absorber Front wheel Die-cast aluminium alloy 2.50×11″ Rear wheel Die-cast aluminium alloy 3.10×10″ Front tyre Tubeless 110/70-11″ Rear tyre Tubeless 120/70-10″ Front brake 200 mm steel disc Rear brake 110 mm drum Length/Width/Height 1,800/740 mm (1,755/740 mm) Seat height 785 mm (775 mm) Running weight 110 kg (96 kg) Fuel tank capacity 8.6 litres Emissions Homologated to Euro 3 (Homologated to Euro 2) Colours Taormina (Mandarino)

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Scooter VESPA G.S. MAIN SPECIFICATION

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Filed Under (Vespa) by admin on 11-11-2010

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Engine: Single cylinder, two-stroke, with reverse flow scavenge and high volumetric efficiency. Flat cast iron cylinder and pressure die ; cast, special aluminium alloy cylinder head. High strength, steel con. rod connected, trough a row of rollers, with the crankshaft which is built of three parts. Bore 57 min. (2.24°) Stroke 57 mm. (2.24″) Displacement 145.55 cc. (8.82 cu in.) Compression ratio 7 to 1 Starting: By means of kick-starter, right hand side of scooter. Transmission: Directly from engine to rear wheel through clutch, cush drive and gear box. . Fig. 02 – VESPA controls 1 – Fuel cock 2 – Throttle control grip 3 – Clutch control lever 4 – Front brake lever 5 – Horn 6 – Horn button 7 – Dimmer switch 8 – Gear change twistgrip 9 – Contact key 10 – Rear broke pedal 11 -Kick- starter 12 – Choke ro Gear change: 4 – speed drive with mesh gears in oil bath. Its adjustable twistgrip control is coupled with that of the clutch, on left hand side of handlebars (fig. 2). Clutch: Wet type; steel plates with cork inserts. Control by lever, on left hand side of handlebars, and adjustable cable. Ignition: By 6-pole flywheel magneto. Separated ignition coil with primary circuit fed by another coil inside the flywheel magneto. Lighting and horn: By flywheel magneto, with a. c. directly feeding head lamp (double filament bulb, 6 v, 25/25 w), and tail lamp, 6 v, 5w, when the switch is in position “2″. The town light (6 v, 3 w), tail lamp, STOP light and horn are fed by the 12 Ah battery, which is constantly re-charged through a metallic rectifier and impedance, when the key of the switch is in either position “0″ or “1″ (see Fig. 3). Frame: of special, thick steel sheet, pressed and spot welded, with streamlined monocoque type structure. Suspension: Front: stub axle and swinging hub with variable rate coil spring and double action hydraulic damper. Rear: swinging bracket for engine and wheel, with variable rate coil sprang and co-axial double action hydraulic damper.

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