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Aprilia RSV4 Exhaust Systems Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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REMOVAL OF STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. 2. 5 Figure 3 Figure 4 Remove the metal collar and rubber damper from the stock muffler hanging bracket (Figure 3, 4). 3. 6 Unscrew the marked bolts and remove the plastic fasteners from the left and right side of the cowling (Figure 5, 6). 4. Figure 5 Figure 6 7 Unscrew the marked bolts and remove the lower part of the cowling (Figure 7). 5. Figure 7
8 Figure 8 Figure 9 Coat the bolt and interior of the metal clamp with spring hook whit Akrapovič anti-seize lead-free copper paste (black tube) and correctly install it onto the stock collector. Hand tighten the bolt (Figure 9, 10). WARNING: use anti-seize copper paste on bolt threads and interior of the metal clamp! 2. 1. Coat the bolt and interior of the metal clamp with Akrapovič antiseize lead-free copper paste (black tube) and correctly install it onto the link pipe (Figure 8). WARNING: use anti-seize copper paste on bolt threads and interior of the metal clamp

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HARLEY DAVIDSON STARTER SOLENOID REPAIR KIT

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. Remove, but do NOT discard, bolt washer 1 and 4 (fig. 1). 2. Remove, but do NOT discard, nut washer 2 (fig. 1). 3. Remove, but do NOT discard, nut washer 3 from shortest copper bolt on cap (fig. 1). 4. Gently remove solenoid cap. 5. IMPORTANT!: Snip wire 5 as close as possible to large copper bolt (fig. 2). 6. Discard old copper bolt and cap. 7. Replace old plunger 6 with new plunger provided in kit. 8. Guide small bolt 7 through hole in new cap as shown (fig. 3). 9. Solder cut wire 5 to new copper bolt terminal 8CAUTION!: Solder wire to terminal, so as not to interfere with contact of plunger to terminal. 10. Install new cap. 11. Re-assemble nuts, bolts and washers 1 2 3 4 as shown (fig. 1). Replace worn parts with those provided in kit.

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1997 Honda CBR 1000 F specifications review

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 20-12-2011

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Front brakes: Dual disc Rear brakes: Single disc Speed and acceleration Top speed: 255.0 km/h (158.4 mph) Power/weight ratio: 0.5745 HP/kg Other specifications Further information Parts and accessories Check out parts and accessories from our partners. Ask questions Join the 97 Honda CBR 1000 F discussion group Insurance, loans, tests Search the web for dealers, loan and insurance costs, tests, customizing, etc. Related bikes List related bikes for comparison of specs Buying a bike starts at Bikez Get a list of related motorbikes before you buy this Honda. Inspect technical data. Look at photos. Read the riders’ comments at the bike’s discussion group. And check out the bike’s reliability, repair costs, etc. Show any 1997 Honda CBR 1000 F for sale on our Bikez.biz Motorcycle Classifieds. You can also sign up for e-mail notification when such bikes are advertised in the future. And advertise your old MC for sale. Our efficient ads are free. You are also welcome to read and submit motorcycle reviews. Rating sample for this Honda bike Value for money for the 1997 Honda CBR 1000 F: (67.1 out of 100) Click here for complete rating. You can also compare bikes.

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1997 Honda CBR 1000 F specifications

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 03-11-2010

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Front brakes: Dual disc Rear brakes: Single disc Speed and acceleration Top speed: 255.0 km/h (158.4 mph) Power/weight ratio: 0.5745 HP/kg Other specifications Further information Parts and accessories Check out parts and accessories from our partners. Ask questions Join the 97 Honda CBR 1000 F discussion group Insurance, loans, tests Search the web for dealers, loan and insurance costs, tests, customizing, etc. Related bikes List related bikes for comparison of specs Buying a bike starts at Bikez Get a list of related motorbikes before you buy this Honda. Inspect technical data. Look at photos. Read the riders’ comments at the bike’s discussion group. And check out the bike’s reliability, repair costs, etc. Show any 1997 Honda CBR 1000 F for sale on our Bikez.biz Motorcycle Classifieds. You can also sign up for e-mail notification when such bikes are advertised in the future. And advertise your old MC for sale. Our efficient ads are free. You are also welcome to read and submit motorcycle reviews. Rating sample for this Honda bike Value for money for the 1997 Honda CBR 1000 F: (67.1 out of 100) Click here for complete rating. You can also compare bikes. Pictures, trademarks and logos of third parties are exclusive property of the respective owners. Technical specifications are subject to change without notice. Bikez.com has been developed by low-cost software development company ObjectLabs

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Toyota Yaris 1.0 VVT-i T3 Hatchback, 3 Doors Removal repair

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 04-06-2011

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Glass’s Private Sale price represents an estimated selling price for a car sold by one private individual to another private individual at a given time. Private Sale prices apply to cars in good overall condition. A car in good condition will carry the best part of a year’s MOT. The car should present itself well, with no obvious damage to bodywork. Tyres and mechanical parts should all be in good condition. All equipment should be fully operational. In the case of cars under 3 years of age, the balance of the manufacturer’s warranty would also be included. The Private Sale price must always be adjusted for condition, whether better or worse. It is also important to note that there may still be differences due to colour, dealer options, variations in market conditions according to geographic area and so on

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2010 Toyota Motorsports/ TRD USA Contingency Award Program

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 29-09-2011

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To enroll in the program, complete the registration form included in the enclosed material and mail, fax or e-mail it to TRD per the instructions at the bottom of the form. Contact personnel are listed on the attached 2010 Contingency Award Guidelines sheets. These people are available to assist you throughout the year. Parts Ordering: If you are planning to order Toyota parts during 2010 you must supply us with your Visa or Master Card credit card number at the time you register in the program. There is a line on the registration form for this number. See the attached Parts Ordering Guidelines for detailed information on how to order parts. TRD is looking forward to working with each of you, and we wish you a very successful year with your racing program

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Triumph Center Mount Oil Pressure Gauge with active oil light Installation

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Remove the two hex head screws and spacers that secure the handlebars. Attach the oil pressure mounting bracket using the bolts removed earlier. It is not necessary to use the spacers as the bracket is the same thickness as the spacers that were removed. Make sure the oil pressure gauge bracket is clamped securely so that the handlebars cannot rotate. This part of the assembly is complete. Do not tighten the fitting mounted on the far side of the Swivel body. This fitting is designed to rotate and is sealed in place with Loctite 242 thread sealant. Over tightening will shear the threads resulting in destruction of the fitting. Remove oil pressure sending unit. Sit the copper crush washer aside for future use. The Swivel and Swivel Adaptor are supplied assembled. Remove the plug from the rear of the Swivel. Slip the crush washer removed earlier over the end of the Adaptor. There is an ‘O’-ring seal between the Adaptor and the Swivel, leaving the two assembled will prevent damage to the seal. Thread the Adaptor, with Swivel still attached, into the port from where the original sending unit was removed. With the use of a 5/32″ Allan wrench, reach inside the Swivel and tighten the Swivel against the Adaptor. Install the original oil pressure sending unit in the top port as shown using the new copper crush washer supplied. Use a wrench on both the Swivel and the original oil pressure sending unit to prevent imparting stress on the Adaptor to Swivel junction. Reinstall the 1/8 NPT plug in the end of the Swivel using with the use of a 3/16″ Allan wrench. Use Loctite 242 or equivalent semi-permanent thread sealant at this junction. Do not over tighten. Use a 3/16″ Allan wrench on the plug and an open end wrench on the Swivel to prevent imparting stress on the Adaptor to Swivel junction. Next, attach one end of the oil pressure line to the swivel fitting (located far side) by pushing the end of the tubing into the hole at the end of the fitting. FYI: these fittings are quick disconnect and self-clinching. They need only to be pushed in to connect. They will not slip out unless the ferrule at the end of the fitting is pushed back away from the tubing as the tubing is pulled from the fitting. Routing: Next, route the other end of the tube up along the frame and in front of the steering head over to the fitting in the gauge body. Avoid the exhaust pipes when routing the tubing. Push the end of the tube into the gauge fitting as was done at the swivel fitting at the other end of the tube. The tubing can be removed and cut to the length required by your routing. Make sure there is enough service loop remaining so

HARLEY DAVIDSON DETACHABLE QUARTER FAIRING AND DOCKING HARDWARE KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-03-2011

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Installation The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. Use the appropriate service manual procedures. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley- Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. (00333a) NOTE If your motorcycle has directional lights mounted on the upper fork bracket they must be relocated to the bottom fork bracket. Some models have front directional lights equipped with three wires, the third black wire is a ground wire. Check to determine how many wires are connected to the front directional lights and follow the following procedure that applies. Ifdirectional lights are not mounted on the upper fork bracket proceed to “ASSEMBLING FAIRING”. Relocating Two Wire Directional Lights 1. Support motorcycle on a center stand such that front wheel is raised slightly off the ground. 2. Remove fork tube pinch screw from right side of lower bracket. 3. Cut wires connected to right directional light about 2 in. away from directional light body. 4. Remove fork tube pinch screw from right side of upper fork bracket. (This is the screw that secures the right directional light.) 5. Install right directional light on right side of lower fork bracket using pinch screw removed in step 4. Install pinch screw removed in step 2 into right side of upper bracket. Tighten both pinch screws to 30-35 ft-lbs. 6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 to relocate left directional light. NOTE Fork tubes may slide downward within fork brackets. If this occurs, front fork tube extension above front fork upper bracket will have to be readjusted according to appropriate Service Manual procedures. 7. Connect the right directional light as follows: Strip approx. 5/16 in. of insulation from the wires cut in step 3. 8. Crimp solderless connectors from kit on two wires coming from motorcycle. 9. Split one end of the 2-conductor polarized wire from kit back about 2 in. and strip 5/16 in. of insulation from wire ends. 10. Slide a piece of shrink tubing from kit over each of the wire ends stripped in step 9 and crimp the wires into the terminals installed in step 8. Make sure you connect the silver and copper colored wires to like colored wires. NOTE Polarized wire is used in this application to ensure correct wiring. One wire is silver, one is copper colored. Wire colors of spliced wire must match wire color of original directional wire leads. 11. Cut polarized wires to the length required for connection to the wires at the relocated directional light. Make certain you leave enough slack in wires to allow routing the harness along the fork tube. 12. Split remaining end of the 2-conductor polarized wire from kit back about 2 in. and strip 5/16 in. of insulation from wire ends. 13. Slide heat shrink tubes over the two wire end. 14. Strip 5/16 in. of insulation from wires connected to directional light and connect like colored wires at directional light with connectors from kit. 15. Slide heat shrink tubing over connectors installed in steps 10 and 14. Activate shrink tubing with heat gun or hair dryer.

AJS DISMANTLING AND REBUILDING FULL- WIDTH REAR WHEEL HUBS

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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The numbers shown thus: (2), refer to the num­ bered parts in the illustration. (a) Disconnect the speedometer driving cable. (b) Remove the lock-nut (16) which secures the speedometer-drive gearbox in position. (c) Remove the wheel from the frame. (d) Grasp the speedometer-drive gearbox with the fingers and firmly pull it away from the hub. (e) Slacken the circlip lock-nut (13). (f) Unscrew and remove the adjusting sleeve (14). With it will come: the sleeve (2) upon which the speedometer-drive No. 504 gearbox is mounted; the lock-nut (13) and the hub cover disc. (g) From the brake side of the wheel remove the spindle nut (19) and washer (18), the spacer for the fork end (17), and the outer spacer (20) (h) Withdraw the brake cover plate com­ plete with the brake shoes from the brake drum. (i) Remove the inner spacer (12). (j) If it is desired to remove the brake drum, take off the nuts (23) and washers (24). and pull the drum away from the hub. It is located on a spigot in the hub. The bolts (25) will remain in the hub and can be pushed out. (k) Press out the spindle (1). It can be withdrawn from either side and pushed out with a press and a suitable brass or copper rod of slightly less diameter than the spindle, or driven out with a ham­ mer and a copper or brass drift. (1) Remove the oil-seal retaining washer (3). the oil seal (4), the oil-seal cup (5), and oil-seal distance piece (6). These can be hooked out with the shank of a small and narrow screw-driver

KTM 250F Timing Chain Tensioner Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 19-10-2010

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1) Remove OEM Tensioner: On some models including the 250F motors, it may be necessary to put the engine at TDC before proceeding. Check your manual. This is not the case on the 450 and 530 single cam motors. • Remove the outer cover plug. • Remove the large cover with copper washer. • Using needle nose pliers grab the end of the OEM tensioner and pull it outward. Be careful not to damage the aluminum port or face. • If the O-ring did not come out with the tensioner, carefully reach into the port and remove it without pushing it further into the engine. 2) Install new Tensioner: • To prepare the new tensioner, set the spring aside. Put the new tensioner in the collapsed position. (They are packaged and shipped in the collapsed position.) If you have extended it, rotate the assembly until the “top” on the piston is facing up. Then a light tap from the bottom will release the ratchet. This will now allow the plunger to be retracted to about 1- 13/16″ (46mm). • Install the O-ring over the tensioner body, keeping it outboard of the ridge as shown. • Slide the tensioner assembly with O-ring (without the spring), into the engine port. The end (with the hex-head spring hole) should only protrude from the engine about 1/32″ (.75mm). • Install the cover and tighten. The copper washer should be tight. • Insert the spring through the cover port. As it is slowly inserted, you may hear clicks as it pushes the plunger inward while ratcheting. • Install and tighten the plug against the spring. Note: some 250F engines have a one piece cap. Slide the spring into the tensioner far enough to hold it, then capture it with the cap and tighten. • Start the engine and carefully check for oil leaks. Adjustment will occur internally as it is needed. No further maintenance of the tensioner is required

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