79 shovelhead crankshaft pinion gear timing mark in wrong spot

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COMPUFIRE 1084 GEAR SETS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 26-11-2010

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1. Remove the seat and disconnect the cables at the battery. Remove the ground cable first and then the positive (+) cable. 2. Drain the oil in the outer primary case and remove the outer primary cover following instructions in the Factory Shop manual. 3. Bend the tab on the jackshaft bolt away from the bolt head. Remove the starter pinion gear with the jackshaft bolt, lock plate and washer. 4. Remove the clutch assembly using the procedure found in the Factory Shop manual. 5. Remove the original equipment ring gear from the clutch basket by drilling out the rivets with a 5/16-inch drill bit. Drill through the rivet head and tap the ring gear off the clutch basket using a hammer. 6. Drill out the six holes in the clutch basket with the 5/16-inch drill bit. RING AND STARTER PINION GEAR INSTALLATION 1. Attach the new 84-tooth ring gear to the clutch basket using the six 5/16×24 socket head cap screws supplied. NOTE… The bevel side of the ring gear (identified by the three dots) faces away from the starter motor. Torque the socket head cap screws to 29 ft lbs. 2. Assemble and install the primary drive assembly following the instructions in the factory Shop manual. 3. Install the new 10-tooth pinion gear with the jackshaft bolt, lock plate and thrust washer. Torque the jackshaft bolt to 7 – 9 ft lbs. Bend the lock tab on the lock plate against a flat on the jackshaft bolt head. 4. Measure and adjust the air gap between the ring gear and the pinion gear. See Fig-1 . The correct gap is .075 – .125 inch. If the gap is larger than .125 inch, use the supplied shim washers inside the jackshaft coupler. See Fig-2 . If the air gap is smaller than .075 inch, the jackshaft must be shortened by removing material from the splined end of the shaft. See Fig-3 . 5. Install the outer primary cover following instructions in the Factory Shop manual and refill the primary case with the proper amount of primary oil. 6. Re-install the battery cables in the reverse order they were removed. Re-install the seat

HARLEY-DAVIDSON BIG TWINS COMPUFIRE 1084 GEAR SETS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 26-11-2010

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1. Remove the seat and disconnect the cables at the battery. Remove the ground cable first and then the positive (+) cable. 2. Drain the oil in the outer primary case and remove the outer primary cover following instructions in the Factory Shop manual. 3. Bend the tab on the jackshaft bolt away from the bolt head. Remove the starter pinion gear with the jackshaft bolt, lock plate and washer. 4. Remove the clutch assembly using the procedure found in the Factory Shop manual. 5. Remove the original equipment ring gear from the clutch basket by drilling out the rivets with a 5/16-inch drill bit. Drill through the rivet head and tap the ring gear off the clutch basket using a hammer. 6. Drill out the six holes in the clutch basket with the 5/16-inch drill bit. RING AND STARTER PINION GEAR INSTALLATION 1. Attach the new 84-tooth ring gear to the clutch basket using the six 5/16×24 socket head cap screws supplied. NOTE… The bevel side of the ring gear (identified by the three dots) faces away from the starter motor. Torque the socket head cap screws to 29 ft lbs. 2. Assemble and install the primary drive assembly following the instructions in the factory Shop manual. 3. Install the new 10-tooth pinion gear with the jackshaft bolt, lock plate and thrust washer. Torque the jackshaft bolt to 7 – 9 ft lbs. Bend the lock tab on the lock plate against a flat on the jackshaft bolt head. 4. Measure and adjust the air gap between the ring gear and the pinion gear. See Fig-1 . The correct gap is .075 – .125 inch. If the gap is larger than .125 inch, use the supplied shim washers inside the jackshaft coupler. See Fig-2 . If the air gap is smaller than .075 inch, the jackshaft must be shortened by removing material from the splined end of the shaft. See Fig-3 . 5. Install the outer primary cover following instructions in the Factory Shop manual and refill the primary case with the proper amount of primary oil. 6. Re-install the battery cables in the reverse order they were removed. Re-install the seat

Harley-Davidson Motorcycle Reverse Gear Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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2.1 Obtain a small tube of Loctite® #262 (red) for use later. 2.2 Drain the transmission oil. 2.3 Remove the clutch adjustment cover (left side). 2.4 Remove rear exhaust header pipe (cross over exhaust pipe). 2.5 Remove the muffler support bracket. 2.6 Remove the clutch release cover (right side). 2.7 Remove clutch push rod and oil slinger. To be disassembled and modified later. 2.8 Remove the two nuts from the main (rear) and counter (front) transmission shafts. 2.9 Remove the transmission bearing housing (puller available from Champion Sidecars). To be replaced with new reverse gear transmission bearing housing (Trap Door). 2.10 Cover the exposed gears in the transmission with a cloth in preparation to cut the shifter fork shaft. 3 Install New Main and Countershaft Gears NOTE: Gears and Tapered Split Rings are factory matched sets. Do not mix!. 3.1 Locate the shifter fork rod, mark fork rod flush at transmission case and pull out 1/4″. Figure 1 Figure 2. Exposed Shoulders Mark shifter fork rod flush with case Remove Spacers Vehicle Transmission Counter Shaft Main Shaft Front of Motorcycle Figure 1
Reverse Gear Installation Instructions For EVO / 5 Speed and Twin Cam Harley-Davidson® Motorcycle Page 3 of 6 Revision 7 © 2007 Champion Motorcycle Accessories International, Inc. dba Champion Sidecars 11841 Monarch Street Garden Grove, CA 92841 (800) 875-0949 (714) 847-0949 www.championsidecars.com www.championtrikes.com Figure 6 CAUTION: Do not pull the shifter fork rod out of the transmission more than 1/4″. If you pull the shifter fork rod out too far, it will be difficult to realign it with the internal shifter fork. 3.2 Cut the shaft at the mark and push it back in. The shaft end MUST NOT stick out of the transmission case. If the shaft is in deeper, fill the hole with silicone to prevent the shaft from moving in and out. NOTE: Shifter fork is made of non-tempered metal and may be cut with a hacksaw or Dremel® cutting tool. 3.3 Important: Remove stock spacers from main and counter shafts. Spray with silicon remover (Brake-Clean) then, using supplied cleaning pad, clean shafts, new counter and main shaft gears and tapered lock rings (inside and outside) Figure 1 3.4 With motorcycle in neutral, pull both the shafts out and simultaneously push the OEM outermost gears in until seated completely to expose the shoulders of both shafts. The countershaft shoulder should be flush with the gear face. For the main shaft the gear would “hang over” the shoulder a small bit. Figure 2 3.5 Apply supplied Champion Super-Lock retaining compound to the inside and outside surfaces of the large gear tapered split ring, to the inside of the new countershaft gear (large gear) and to the transmission countershaft (the forward most shaft). 3.6 Install new countershaft gear to the transmission countershaft. Insert tapered split ring (tapered end first) into the countershaft gear. Install ring seat tool and spring to counter shaft and new countershaft gear. Torque ring seat tool to 40 ft-lb’s. Figures 3 and 4

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2007 Ural Models Gear Up Patrol Tourist Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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Font Brake Control Lever Clutch control lever: When the clutch lever is squeezed, the engine is disengaged from the gearbox. When the lever is released, the engine and gearbox are engaged. WARNING: MAKE SURE FINGERS ARE NOT POSITIONED BETWEEN HAND CONTROL LEVERS AND HANDLEBAR GRIPS OR OPERATION OF VEHICLE COULD BE IMPAIRED . WARNING: B EFORE STARTING ENGINE , ALWAYS SHIFT TRANSMISSION TO NEUTRAL TO PREVENT ACCIDENTAL MOVEMENT WHICH COULD CAUSE POSSIBLE DAMAGE TO MOTORCYCLE AND PERSONAL INJURY . Caution: Always engage the clutch release lever when shifting. Serious internal damage may result to the transmission if the clutch release lever is not engaged. Front brake control lever: When the lever is squeezed, the front wheel brake is actuated. The front brake should be used together with rear brake. When the brake lever is squeezed, the stop signal lights are switched on. 19 Kickstart lever : Designed to start the engine. Upon kicking the lever the crankshaft is actuated through the gearbox. The lever is returned to its initial position by the spring inside the gearbox. Gear shift lever: This is a heal shift type of lever. To shift up from a low gear to a high gear the rear arm(heal shift) is pressed. To shift down from a high gear to a low gear the from arm is depressed. Since the heel-toe shift lever is short-coupled, it is much easier to shift up using the heal shift, and to shift down using the toe shift with the ball of your foot. The neutral gear is between the 1st and 2nd gears. It is important to shift smoothly with a constant force, and not to kick the gear shift pedal. Serious damage may result to the shifting mechanism if the gear shift pedal is kicked, rather than pressed. NOTE: The neutral lamp will illuminate when the transmission is in neutral. (see “Starting the Engine”). Gear Shift Foot Pedal Kick Lever 20 Parking Brake Sidecar Drive Lever Rear Brake Pedal Parking Brake: Used to hold the bike when parked. To engage, press the rear brake pedal, push down and twist the parking brake lever counter clockwise. Sidecar drive engagement lever: Used to engage the drive axle to the sidecar wheel on the Patrol and Gear Up model motorcycles. WARNING: Never engage sidecar drive on concrete or hard surface. Severe damage to drivetrain will result if the sidecar drive is engaged on pavement. Rear brake lever: Actuates the rear brakes on both the motorcycle and sidecar. WARNING: DO NOT APPLY EITHER BRAKE STRONGLY ENOUGH TO LOCK THE WHEELS BECAUSE THIS MAY CAUSE POSSIBLE LOSS OF CONTROL OF THE MOTORCYCLE . ALWAYS USE BOTH BRAKES . NEVER STOP WITH FRONT OR REAR BRAKE ONLY . WARNING: AN IMPROPERLY ADJUSTED REAR BRAKE PEDAL COULD INTERFERE WITH PROPER REAR BRAKE OPERATION RESULTING IN POOR BRAKE ACTION

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Moto Guzzi Sport 1100i Owners Manual

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Filed Under (Moto Guzzi) by admin on 29-11-2010

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General features Identification data Instruments and controls Riding your motorcycle Break-in Maintenance and adjustments Wheel removal Service schedule Cleaning – Storing Cleaning the windscreen Lubrication Valve gear WEBER injectionignition system (I.A.W.) Electrical equipment Wiring diagram Illustrations Lubrication Pressure fed by gear pump. Oil filters: wire mesh inside sump and replaceable cartridge filter outside sump. Normal lubrication pressure 3.8Ö 4.2 [5] kg/cm2, pressure valve, thermostat and cooler. Low oil pressure sensor (electrical) on crankcase. Generator/Alternator On front of crankshaft (1 4V – 25A). Ignition “WEBER MARELLI” electronic digital induced discharge, with high efficiency coil. Spark plugs: Spark plug gap: 0,7 mm. SPORT 1100 DAYTONA R NGK BPR 6 ESI NGK DR9 E IMS Starting Electric starter (12V-1,2 kW) with solenoid engagement. Ring gear bolted on flywheel. Starter button (START) on right of handlebars. Driveline data Clutch Twin driven plates, dry type, on flywheel. Hand controlled by lever on left of handlebars. Primary drive By gears. Ratio: 1 to 1.3529 (tooth ratio 17/23). Gearbox 5-speed, with constantly meshed gears with front dog clutch. Incorporated cush drive. Pedal operated on the left side of the motorcycle. Gear ratios: Low gear = 1 to 1,812 (tooth ratio 16/29) 2nd gear = 1 to 1,250 (tooth ratio 20/25) 3rd gear = 1 to 1 (tooth ratio 23/23) 4th gear = 1 to 0,833 (tooth ratio 24/20) 5th gear = 1 to 0,730 (tooth ratio 26/19) Ratio: 1:4,125 (tooth ratio 8/33) Overall gear ratios (Engine-wheel): Low gear = 1 to 10,1150 2nd gear = 1 to 6,9761 3rd gear = I to 5,5809 4th gear = 1 to 4,6507 5th gear = 1 to 4,0783 Frame Rectangular section single-beam in NiCrMo steel. Semisupporting engine base. Suspensions Front: White Power upside-down hydraulic telescopic fork with individually adjustable rebound and compression; Rear: steel swing arm with oval cross section. Single shock absorber White Power with separate adjustment of spring preload and of hydraulic rebound and compression damping. Wheels Light alloy castings with 3 hollow spokes (rear wheel with cush drive unit). Rim sizes: – front: 3,50x 17 MT H2 – rear: 4,50×17 MT H2 Tires -front: 120/70 ZR 17 – rear: 160/70 ZR 17 [160/60 ZR 17] Type: Tubeless Front: two Brembo drilled semi-floating disc brakes in stainless steel for SPORT I 100; [two Brembo drilled floating discs, Racing type for DAYTONA RS] with fixed 4 differential piston calipers. Adjustable manual control lever on the right side of the handle-bar; – disc 320 mm;

ULTIMA IGNITION MODULE AND KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL FOR HARLEY DAVIDSON

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-03-2011

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Disconnect battery. 2. Mark location of timing plate in relation to inside of cam cover. This will give a starting point for timing on new module. Remove old ignition if applicable (see manual) Clymer, Haynes. 3. If your bike is not equipped with timing rotor M/W# 53-528 OEM#32402-83 you must buy one (included in kit). Also a single fire coil is needed (included in kit) M/W# 53-632. Any single fire coil rated 2-4 ohms can be used. NO SOLID CORE PLUG WIRES (copper, silver) they will damage the unit. 4. Install module: helpful hints, early model nose cones, i.e. Shovel Heads, the hole for the wire may need to be drilled out. Align with previously scripted mark for timing. Use lockwashers for stand offs for correct clearance of cover plate. Run wire loom. 5. Connect wires, see wiring diagram. Tape unused wires, green or brown. 12v to tach (brown) will damage module. Set timing. 1996 and later should not be timed 20˚ BTDC as the OEM module, but at 35˚ BTDC. Use this mark when using timing light. If VOESswitch is not used you must ground VOES wire (green) while timing. Refer to manual for correct identification of timing marks. At start up and timing, set spark advance in middle position. FUNCTION SWITCHES LED timing indicator light: When out, shows TDC. When ignition is on, LED will light up. When engine is cranking LED will blink. Electric Start/Kickstart: Set accordingly. VOES/Race mode: VOES switch lets the motor run smoother and improves gas mileage. If you don’t use it or add one tape up green wire and switch to race. VOES switch to use, M/W# 53-652. Spark advance: High compression motors should use race mode and 93 octane or better gas. Changing from VOES to race changes advance curves. Agood rule of thumb is if the engine knocks when throttle is applied in high gear, turn back spark advance curve until it stops engine knock. RPMlimiter: Set at desired RPM to cut engine power. Rear Cylinder: This is for racing and should be set at a dyno. +/-5˚. Rear cylinder timing is achieved through this adjuster. Most should dial to middle setting and leave alone. After all switches are set, install cover with supplied gasket and feel the increased performance of a solid state single fire ignition. Again, we remind you, if you don’t feel confident about installing this unit, let a qualified mechanic do it and be assured you are getting the best performance and gas mileage possible.

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1999 – 2003 1.25, 2.0, 2.5 and 2.9 Sherco Ignition Timing Removal And Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Sherco) by admin on 20-04-2011

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Remove the gear shift lever bolt by using a 5mm Allen wrench. Insert the wrench through the hole in the skid plate. Holding the gear shifter up in second gear makes it easier to align the wrench into the head of the bolt. Pull the gear shift lever as far as possible towards the chain. (The chain does not have to be removed in order to remove the ignition cover and flywheel) Remove the three ignition cover bolts by using a 4mm Allen wrench. Carefully remove the ignition cover-which requires a little twisting and some outward pressure on the gear shift lever. The shift lever may also have to be pressed down into the first gear position. Inspect the rubber ring gasket for cracks or cuts while the ignition cover is off. Replace if necessary. We recommended applying a ring of high grade silicone sealant to further improve the seal of the rubber ring gasket. Tap a chisel-mark across the flywheel retaining nut and the crankshaft by using a small, sharp chisel. This mark serves as a reference point for retightening the flywheel in its original position during reassembly.

2003 Model Ural Gear Up, Patrol, Tourist Owners Manual

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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19 Kick lever Is designed to start the engine. On pressing the lever the crankshaft of the engine is actuated through the gearbox. The lever is returned to its initial position by the spring inside the gearbox. Gear shift foot pedal Is a two-arm type. When the front arm is depressed, shifting from higher to lower gear takes place. When the rear arm is depressed, shifting from lower to higher gear takes place. Since the heel-toe shift lever is short-coupled, you will find it easier to shift into a higher gear if you do not use your heel to shift, rather the ball of your foot. The neutral position is fixed between the 1st and 2nd gears. It is important to shift smoothly with a constant force and not to kick the gear shift pedal. Serious damage may result to the shifting mechanism if the gear shift pedal is kicked, rather than pushed. IMPORTANT! The green pilot lamp will illuminate when either the transmission is in neutral or when the reverse gear is engaged (see “Starting the Engine”). Turn indicator pilot lamp indicates that the turn signals are activated. Alternator fault indicator lamp , indicates that the charging system is malfunctioning and needs immediate attention. Gearbox neutral and reverse gear engagement , indicates that the gearbox is either in neutral or in reverse. Head lamp high beam indicator , indicates that the headlight high beam is activated. Speedometer is on the dash board, with trip and total odometer. The trip odometer is reset to zero by rotating knob (Fig.1, # 3) counterclockwise. Note that the odometer reads in kilometers not miles.

Crankshaft Durability of Rover K-Series Engine: Comparison of ENGDYN Analysis with Dynamic Measurements

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-11-2010

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The Rover K-Series engine has now been in production for over 10 years, initially of 1.4 L capacity. Since then 1.1L, 1.6L, 1.8L and 1.8L VVC (Variable Valve Control) have been introduced with an accumulative build of two million engines since 1989. The 1.8L engine is also built under official licence for Lotus and Caterham, and also in the MGF motorsport series. The K-Series is an attractive buy due to its reduced cost and low weight, which is a necessity for sport cars. This report aims to validate Ricardo ENGDYN software with respect to Rover K-Series 1.8 Litre VVC crankshaft durability. The software will be used to output the behaviour of the crankshaft under as realistic conditions as possible. The oil film thickness and bearing load characteristics of the crankshaft through the running range of the engine will be compared to results obtained from in-house software. The torsional and bending vibration output from ENGDYN will then be compared with results obtained from dynamic measurements. Finally, the crank stress and durability results from ENGDYN will be compared to strain gauge measurements at comparative points on the crankshaft. ENGDYN is a computer program used for analysing the dynamics of the engine, and in particular the crankshaft and its interaction with the cylinder block. In this analysis the software will be used to predict the time-domain response of the 3-dimensional vibration of the crankshaft coupled to the block by way of a non-linear oil film. When this loading and motion has been calculated the software can perform a fast Fourier transform to break down the time-domain response into its corresponding frequencies. This allows the results to be post-processed in the frequency domain. 2 Method of Analysis 2.1 Engine Specifications Configuration: in-line 4 Fuel: Gasoline Cylinder bore: 80 mm Piston stroke: 89.3 mm Swept volume: 1.8L Crankpin Peak Power: 107 KW @ 7000 rpm Peak Torque: 174 N/m @ 4500 rpm Engine running range: 750-7200 rpm 2.2 Component Modelling 2.2.1 Crankshaft To perform the analysis within ENGDYN two crankshaft models were created. These included a complete stiffness representation of the crank (excluding the crank nose hub and the flywheel), and a detailed model of the crank from main bearing 4 to main bearing 5, with mesh density increased around the fillets. ENGDYN can however perform crank analysis of any portion of the crank as long as the model incorporates at least two main journal bearings. Features such as bolt holes and oil drilling were omitted on both models, which were meshed using solid tetrahedral elements

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2003 Ducati ST4s Timing Belt Adjustment

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 31-10-2010

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This instruction on cam belt adjustment starts after you remove the fairing pieces. Plan on an hour to remove these. Since you are performing your own service, buying Ducati belts may not be that expensive. There may be another belt source, but I have not confirmed this for the 996 engine of the 02-03 ST4s. Fig 1 – ST4s ready for belt adj./ repl. Fig 2 – Crank tool installed. See dwg. 1) Ensure maximum of ½ tank of gas. Fuel will leak into the charcoal canister, then onto the floor if the tank is over half full and the tank is tilted up on its hinge. So put the tank up on its hinge. 2) Remove spark plugs. Cover sparkplug wells with boots or rags. This is a great time to toss out those Champions for a set of NGK DCPR8E’s. 3) Remove the front shield from the horizontal cylinder head. 4) Remove crankshaft cover on Riders LH side and insert crank tool. A crank tool can be made by following the drawing at the end of this document. See Fig 2 above. The flat head screws used are kind of soft so beware on their removal. 5) Remove oil pressure sending unit cable and remove oil sending unit. No oil should pour out. 6) Remove battery and remove bolts fastening battery box to engine/frame. You can let the battery box dangle or partially support it via a bungee cord. Be careful of the cable on the ground of the ECU. By dangling the battery box excess stress could be placed on this cables connector and you don’t want to troubleshoot an intermittent electrical issue. 7) Remove cam belt covers. The two covers over the cams are real easy. The center piece is removed by pulling it down. You may have to move some hoses and cables out Timing belt adj. doc 1
of the way because it is a tight fit. Removing the oil pressure sending unit gave clearance for the removal. Fig 1 shows bike ready to be worked on. On the Rider’s LH is a window on the case cover. Using a flashlight to illuminate the area, marks can be rotated into view using the engine turning tool. There are two marks denoting the TDC of each of the cylinders. When a mark in the window aligns with the pointer, look at the crank driving pulley on the Rider’s RH of the engine. If the driving pulley’s mark is aligned with the pointer on the engine case, you are at TDC horizontal cylinder. If the pulley mark and the pointer on the engine do not align, rotate the engine until the mark in the window on the Rider’s LH side case cover aligns as well as the pulley’s mark and the engine’s pointer. Fig 3 shows the engine pulley and pointer. You can check that the horizontal piston is at TDC by inserting a welding rod into the spark plug well and touch the top of the piston with it to sense its position. Timing marks on cam pulleys are clearly stamped on all four pulleys. When the crank driving pulley aligns with its corresponding pointer on the engine case and the marks on the pulleys align with their corresponding marks on both cylinders, you are in position for belt adjustment and replacement

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