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Fairing bodywork in glass-reinforced plastic Cruciata Racing

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-10-2010

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The fairing bodywork that they have I use in contest is made in sturdy and flexible glass-reinforced plastic. The fairing bodywork in glass-reinforced plastic they succeed to replace the fairing bodywork originates them nearly perfectly, thanks to the predisposition holes. The greater part of the fairing bodywork in glass- reinforced plastic in production has the points of attachment with the moto reinforces to you in carbon on every attack with the chassis of the moto. Between the types of fairing bodywork and as point of reference between the fairing bodywork is as an example fairing bodywork it Cruciata Racing, worked always handicraft with passion for it gets passionate to it to you, which has enjoyed in particular way of the progresses and the evolution of the materials and the members. fairing bodywork the Cruciata Racing is constructed entire in woven of glass with reinforces in carbon in correspondence of the attacks to the motor and between the parts in glass-reinforced plastic. In the line racing standards are included plexiglass of height (to pierce), neoprene sponge cm 1,5 (supplied already sagomata). It fairing bodywork Cruciata Racing is which between the types of fairing bodywork is distinguished for its use, that is, this fairing bodywork is born and it is developed in order to answer carefully and to satisfy the requirements of the pilots. Fairing bodywork the Cruciata Racing in glass-reinforced plastic obviously is demanded for that it regards the sport within and the contests in track, because they are the only ones like characteristic to resist to the sollicitations impegnative thanks to theirs reinforces inner. Moreover to being resistant, these fairing bodywork offer to an optimal elasticity and lightness. Fairing bodywork the Cruciata Racing of sure the fairing bodywork better is produced with the best materials on the market. The fairing bodywork in glass-reinforced plastic they can be acquired crude, or can be painted and prepared in in professional way, applying all the processes of preparation that guarantee a final result of elevated quality, is from the aesthetic point of view, the point of view of the duration and from the point of view of I use it of the fairing bodywork.

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TOYOTA SPECIALTY AND REPLACEMENT PARTS

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 30-09-2011

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73-3844 Replaces: 3977775, 3078511 CLIP -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 2″ Length: 3/4″ G.M. ’64/ UNIT PACKAGE 100 79-5126 Replaces: 20064875 CLIP -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 1 21/32″ Length: 3/4″ G.M. ’78/ UNIT PACKAGE 50 79-5127 Replaces: 20030401 CLIP -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 1 3/8″ Length: 1″ G.M. ’80/ UNIT PACKAGE 50 79-5100 Replaces: 388908-S RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 1-3/4″ Ford ’80/ UNIT PACKAGE 100 74-3945 Replaces: 385330-S, 6003351 FASTENER -HOOD INSULATION Ford & Chrysler Products ’73/ AMC 4005513 ’76 UNIT PACKAGE 100 92-7067 Replaces: 15678493, 21039141 RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 1-9/16″ Length: 1/2″, Hole: 1/4″ Plastic Saturn ’91/ UNIT PACKAGE 25 67-3119 Replaces: 389809, C6GY-16776-A CLIP -HOOD INSULATION RETAINER 1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ Plastic G.M., Ford Products UNIT PACKAGE 50 72-3718 Replaces: 389089 FASTENER -HOOD INSULATION 2″ x 2″ Plastic G.M. Cars UNIT PACKAGE 50 99-8032 Replaces: 385595-S, 386553-S RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Plastic Formerly 74-3944 For Heavier Type Insulation Head: 1-3/16 Ford ’74/ UNIT PACKAGE 50 95-7382 Replaces: N-803613-S RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Hole: 1/4″, Head: 1-3/4″ Stem Length: 7/8″ Plastic Ford Explorer ’91/, Taurus, Sable, Mustang, Continental ’92/ UNIT PACKAGE 50 95-7369 Replaces: W700671-S300 RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 25MM, Hole: 8MM Black Plastic Ford Contour & Mercury Mystique ’95/ UNIT PACKAGE 15 96-7577 Replaces: 01644290, 15678979, 01553-0075U RETAINER -SPEAKER, DOOR SILL, BUMPER, HOOD INSULATOR Black Plastic Hole: M6, Barb Length: 12MM Head Dia.: 11MM, O/L: 19MM G.M. Various Models ’86/, Nissan Altima & Maxima 2002/

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2000 YAMAHA YZF-R1 SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 27-11-2010

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CABLE ROUTING SPEC AProperly insert the meter assembly coupler and rubber boot into the meter assembly. BRoute the meter assembly lead through the left side of the headlight housing. CThe speedometer lead with not be tighten. DInstall the headlight relays onto the headlight housing bridge. EConnect to the right front turn signal connectors. FRoute the turn signal leads upper the headlight housing boss. 1 Clutch cable 2 Left handlebar switch lead 3 Starter cable 4 Main switch lead 5 Steering cover EB206000 CABLE ROUTING -21- NRoute the thermo switch/temperature sender sub- wire harness to the outside of the radiator cap. ORoute the right handlebar switch lead behind the throttle cables. Do not cross the throttle cables and the right handlebar switch lead. PRoute the right handlebar switch lead in front of the throttle cables. GFasten the headlight lead with a plastic clamp at white tape mark. HFasten the wire harness to the headlight housing boss with a plastic locking tie. IRoute the headlight lead through the plastic guide. JRoute the throttle cable to the front side of the brake hose. KRoute the clutch cable behind the front fork leg. LMake sure that the horn leads face out. MRoute the throttle cables and right handlebar switch lead between the lower bracket and steering cover. CABLE ROUTING SPEC -22- CRoute the rollover-valve-to-fuel-tank hose to the inside of the fuel hose (California only). DRoute the coolant reservoir breather hose over the timing chain tensioner. EInsert the plastic clip through the hole in the plastic frame panel and then fasten the wire harness and coolant reservoir breather hose with it. FRoute the clutch cable between the radiator bracket and frame and in front of the thermostat assembly breather hose. GRoute the clutch cable to the inside of the radiator inlet hose. HInsert the plastic clamp into the hole in the coolant reservoir’s tab

Kawasaki ZX-14 TITANIUM SIDEWINDER EXHAUST Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-04-2012

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STEP 2: PRE-ASSEMBLE HEADERS, COLLECTOR, AND MID-PIPE TO INSURE PROPER FIT BETWEEN ALL PARTS: Brock’s Performance pre-assembles the exhaust system before it is shipped to your door. We ask you to this to insure there were no shipping damages incurred before you start disassembling your bike. A lot of our customers use WD-40 applied to the joints to ease assembly, adjustment, and/or disassembly. STEP 3: REMOVE ZX-14 RIGHT AND LEFT DASHBOARDS : The right and left dashboards are held in place by three fasteners (Figure 4) which are removed with a No. 4 hex head wrench. Note that all dashboard and fairing fasteners have thin plastic washers located between the fastener head and the plastic body work. Be careful to save the plastic washers. To avoid losing fasteners and washers it is recommended that the installer place them in a container once they are removed. STEP 4: REMOVE ZX-14 LOWER FAIRING : The lower fairing consists of separate right and left side panels, both of which should be removed. The locations of the bolts and plastic push pins holding the fairing in place are illustrated in Figure 5. Details are provided below. • The plastic push pins is located in the front of the fairing (3) , aft of the front tire, and holds the left and right panels together. Remove the plastic push pins using a thin blade screw driver to lift the rivet head. Then pull the rivet from the bodywork. This will release the right panel from the left panel. • Remove the lower fairing fasteners & washers (1 & 2) on the right fairing panel with a No. 5 hex head wrench. • Remove the upper fairing fasteners & washers (4, 5, & 6) on the right fairing panel with a No. 4 hex head wrench. • Note that the top of the fairing incorporates slots into which hooks at the bottom of the mid fairing (red bodywork) fit. These hooks are shown in Figure 8. Pull the bottom of the lower fairing panel away from the bike and then downward to clear the hooks from the slots. The right side lower fairing should now separate easily from the mid-fairing. • Repeat for the left side lower fairing

Honda Foreman 500 And Honda Rubicon WINCH MOUNTING KIT INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 13-12-2011

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Begin by removing the front skid plate located on the front of the ATV. Remove the four side 8mm bolts and four bottom 6mm bolts securing the front skid plate, figure 1. Save the fasteners as they will be used later to reinstall the front skid plate. 2. Remove the four plastic rivets on each side of the front plastic fascia, figure 2. Use a large screw driver to carefully remove the center rivet. After removing the center rivet, remove the rivet housing. Save the fasteners as they will be used to reinstall the front plastic fascia. 3. Remove the two 6mm bolts that attach the front plastic fascia to the bumper, figure 3. Remove the front plastic fascia at this time . Remove the two 6mm bolts that attach the front bumper to the plastic headlight assembly, figure 4. Save the fasteners as they will be used to reinstall the front bumper. 5. Remove the two top 8mm bumper bolts that attach the front bumper to the front rack, figure 5. Save the fasteners as they will be used to reinstall the front bumper. Figure 5 Remove Top Bumper Bolts Remove (both sides) 6. Remove the two ottom bumper bolts that attach the bumper to the bottom of the vehicle frame, figure 6. Save the fasteners as they will be used to reinstall the front bumper

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HARLEY DAVIDSON ULTRA TOUR-PAK BRAKE LAMP CHROME ACCENT COVERS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-02-2011

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Installation- Corner Brake Lamp Trim 1. Carefully cut out brake lamp trim template (1) attached to this instruction sheet. 2. Position template (1) on plastic brake housing (2) as shown in Figure 2. 3. Using a punch, score two points indicated on template to mark mounting hole locations (3) on plastic brake housing (2). 4. Using a 1/8 in. drill bit, drill a pilot hole in plastic housing. 5. Use a 7/32 in. drill bit to drill through housing and fiberglass Tour-Pak. 6. See Figure 3. Insert studs on chrome brake lamp trim piece through holes drilled in plastic housing and Tour- Pak. Using two flatwashers (1), two lockwashers (2) and two acorn nuts (3) from kit, secure trim piece to Tour- Pak. Tighten finger tight. 7. See Figure 3. Locate brake lamp retaining clip (4) on inside of Tour-Pak and remove. Save clip (4) for later reinstallation. 8. Form chrome trim around corner of Tour-Pak, so that it is positioned around plastic housing evenly. While holding chrome trim in position, mark forward mounting hole position on Tour-Pak using a punch

Kawasaki MULE 600 / 610 SNOW PLOW INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. PRELIMINARY: 1.1 Remove the six 6 mm. screws and plastic skid / splash shield from the bottom front of the vehicle frame. (These bolts and plastic skid / splash shield will not be reused snow plow mounting frame installed onto the vehicle.) 1.2 If the vehicle has the Kawasaki optional brush guard installed, it will have to be removed and then reinstalled after the snow plow mounting frame is installed. (The brush guard will fit with the snow plow mounting frame installed first.) 2. VEHICLE MOUNTING FRAME 2.1 Position the vehicle mounting frame (13) under the front of the vehicle so that the six holes (with pipe spacers) line up with the six 6 mm. threaded holes that the plastic skid / splash shield was attached with and the upper plate is through the large oval hole in the vehicle plastic fascia. Fasten loosely using 6mm. x 1.0mm. x 30mm. bolts (33) , 6mm. lock washers (35) and 6mm. flat washers (34). 2.2 Place a 5/16″-18 “U” bolt (36) around the front cross tube behind the plastic fascia and through each set of holes in the flange of the upper plate of the vehicle mounting frame (total of two “U” bolts). Fasten loosely using 5/16″flat washers (41), 5/16″ lock washers (40), and 5/16″-18 nuts (42). 2.3 Install a 5/16″-18 “U” bolt (36) around the lower frame tubes and through each set of slotted holes in the lower plate of the vehicle mounting frame (total of four “U” bolts). Fasten loosely using 5/16″ flat washers (41), 5/16″ lock washers (40), and 5/16″-18 nuts (42). 2.4 Tighten all the fasteners holding the vehicle mounting frame to the vehicle starting with the 6mm. bolts

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Triumph Bonneville America And Speedmaster The Freak Installation Instructions and Parts List

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs

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KAWASAKI TERYX 750 CLUTCH KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove both seats from the vehicle. Next, remove the passenger side lower body panel. There is a mixture of Philips head screws and also plastic push pin fasteners that have to be removed. 2. With the side panel off, the next item to remove is the plastic housing over the engine. These are all “push in” style plastic clips that hold it in place. Once all the pins are out, you can slide the housing off and set it aside. 3. Now the lower long plastic panel under the seat has to be removed (again mainly plastic push clips to remove) . Once they are all out, carefully remove and set aside. 4. Next, remove the fuel tank. Remove the two lines on the top of the tank. There are two straps that hold the tank in place. Remove the bolt from each strap, remove the straps, and lift the fuel tank out. 5. Now the bracket that holds the fuel pump on has to be removed. There are two bolts here to take out. Once this is done, mark the two wires to the coil and disconnect them. Set the bracket out of the way . 6. Next, the clutch cover bolts can be removed and the norkel on the housing can be loosened and i Teryx 750 Clutch Kit Instructions 5/1/09 removed. Take the clutch cove off and set out of the way. 7. With the clutch visible, you can remove the secondary clutch with a large impact wrench and metric socket . 8. Remove the bolt from the primary clutch. This is a left hand thread on the bolt. Next you will need a Kawasaki drive clutch puller (part #352251) to pop the clutch loose. If you do not have a puller, the spring cap can be removed on the vehicle and the weights can be changed out in there as well. 9. With the clutches sitting on the bench, remove the bolts that hold on the spring cover. Remove the stock spring and the stock weights 10. After reading the directions on the new weights, add the correct amount of weight to each clutch weight and install them in the clutch. Place the weight to the left side in the clutch pocket and then install the aluminum spacer. Repeat this process for the other three weights. 11. Install the new spring supplied in the kit and install the spring cover, paying close attention to the arrows on the cover. 12. Next, remove the stock spring from the secondary. It is recommended that you use the TEAM Compression tool (part # 930001) for this. With the clutch on the compression tool, compress the spring retainer down far enough to remove the snap ring with the needle-nose pliers . Slowly back off the t-handle and remove the tool.

2008-2009 HONDA CBR 1000 RR DUAL CANISTER SLIP-ON INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 22-11-2011

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INSURE THE EXHAUST SYSTEM AND EXHAUST COMPONENTS ARE FULLY COOLED. 2. INSURE THE MOTORCYCLE IS STABLE ON KICKSTAND OR REAR CENTERSTAND OR SERVICE TABLE. 3. REMOVE THE 3 PLASTIC BUTTONS HOLDING THE PLASTIC COVER OVER THE EXHAUST SERVO. (THIS IS LOCATED DIRECTLY INSIDE THE RIGHT REAR PASSENGER PEG BRACKET) DETACH THE CABLE END FROM THE SERVOnWHEEL AND REMOVE THE ENTIRE CABLE FROM THE RETAINING CLIP. THE ENTIREnCABLE WILL NOW REMOVE WITH THE REST OF THE EXHAUST.REPLACE THE PLASTIC COVER FOR THE SERVO AND REINSTALL THE 3 PLASTIC BUTTONS. 6. REMOVE THE STOCK MUFFLER MOUNTING BOLT. REMOVE 7. REMOVE THE STOCK EXHAUST CLAMP. (IT IS NOT UNCOMMON FOR THE CLAMP BOLT TO BREAK DURING REMOVAL.)b8. REMOVE THE ENTIRE STOCK EXHAUST ASSEMBLY. BE CAREFUL NOT TO SCRATCH THE SWING ARM DURING REMOVAL. 9. REMOVE THE STOCK EXHAUST GASKET FROM HEADER PIPE IF IT DID NOT COME OFF WITH THE STOCK EXHAUST. THIS GASKET WILL
NOT BE USED. 10. PREASSEMBLE THE HYPERFLO EXHAUST BEFORE INSTALLING. HYPERFLO RECOMMENDS YOU DO THIS PORTION ON CARPET OR A CLEAN PADDED AREA. YOU MAY ALSO USE THE PLASTIC BUBBLE PACKAGING AS A PAD TO PROTECT THE CANISTERS DURING PREASSEMBLY. 11. PREASSEMBLE THE LARGE DIAMETER CAN TO THE S-PIPE FIRST. INSTALL THE SPRING ON THE CANISTER FIRST AND PULL AWAY FROM THE CANISTER TO INSURE YOU DO NOT SCRATCH THE CANISTER

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