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Victory Freedom Engines Installation Instructions for S&S Air Cleaner Kit

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1-Locate and remove the Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IATS) from the stock Polaris Victory air box. Locate the new position for the IATS on the bottom of the S&S air cleaner. Push the IATS in the lower air cleaner cover and turn1⁄ 4 turnin either direction, make sure you feel it lock into place. Inspect from the inside of the air cleaner to ensure that the barbs are locked into place. See Picture 1. 2-Using the stock Polaris Victory air box gasket (PN 5811908) and S&S supplied (Qty 4) M6 fasteners, assemble the lower air cleaner cover to the throttle body using 243 Blue Loctite®on the treads. Torque the M6 fasteners to 72-96 inch pounds. 3-Position the S&S pre-formed air filter onto the lower air cleaner cover ensuring that it fits into the machined groove. 4-Install the top air cleaner cover on top of the filter ensuring that it fits into the machined groove. 5-Make surethat the filter is situated in the machined grooves on both the top and bottom air cleaner covers. 6-Using 243 Blue Loctite on the threads of the S&S supplied (Qty 3) M6 fasteners tighten down top air cleaner cover evenly until seated. Finish torque the fasteners to 72-96 inch pounds. Now you’re ready for breather hose and barometric pressure hose routing. 7-Locate the S&S supplied 3⁄ 16 “reinforced hose and clamps. Push one end of the hose on the 3⁄ 16 “brass barb in the bottom air cleaner cover and slide clamp up around the end of the hose. The other end of the hose is for the Barometric Pressure Sensor (MAP). Route the hose towardthe back of the engine over the top of the rear rocker cover. 8-Remove the MAP sensor from the stock Polaris Victory air box. Remove the orange rubber gasket from the MAP sensor. Slide the S&S supplied clamp over the 3⁄ 16 “rubber hose that leads to the air cleaner. Push the barbed end of the MAP sensor into the 3⁄ 16 ” rubber hose and slide clamp up to the end of the hose around the barb. A small amount of lubricant may be applied to the barb on the MAP sensor to make installation easier. 2 S&S Air Cleaner Assembly 41-0021 (Calibration cardnot shown) Picture 1 CAUTION WARNING WARNING Plastic barb locked in recess.
9-Assemble and install breather hose as follows: A-Cut the stock Victory®hose on the straight section just behind the 90 degree bend as shown in Picture 2 . B-Slide an S&S supplied 1⁄ 2 “hose clamp over the modified stock breather hose. C-Install the S&S straight barb in Victory breather hose and position a hose clamp around hose end. D-Slide the 90-degree end of breather hose over the brass barb on the air cleaner cover and slide hose clamp in place. E-Position straight end of the S&S breather hose over the 1⁄ 2 “barb to connect to the Victory hose. Slide clamp over connection. F- See Pictures 3 and 4 for breather hose and barometric pressuresensor hose installation positions. NOTE: S&S breather hose can be cut for best fit

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SCREAMIN' EAGLE VENTILATOR PERFORMANCE AIR CLEANER INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-02-2011

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REMOVAL To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 1. Remove the main fuse. Refer to the service manual. 2. Remove the existing air cleaner backplate. Refer to the service manual. Save the original equipment (OE) button head screw that secures the air cleaner cover. Discard the remaining parts. 3. Remove the fuel tank. Refer to the service manual. 4. See Figure 1. Remove and discard the induction module support bracket. is05912 Figure 1. Remove Induction Module Support Bracket INSTALLATION Air Cleaner Installation Use only supplied air cleaner cover. Use of another air cleaner cover could cause element failure and detachment of the air cleaner cover, which could distract the rider and result in death or serious injury. (00596b) NOTE When servicing the air cleaner, apply Loctite 243 – Blue to the threads of all fasteners. 1. See Figure 3. Install two O-rings (1) from the kit in the grooves around the breather bolt holes on the induction module side of the backplate assembly (2). Install the remaining two O-rings in the grooves in the underside of the heads of the breather bolts (5). 2. Remove the liner from the adhesive backing of the gasket (3). Carefully position the adhesive side of the gasket to the backplate, aligning to the equally spaced screw holes, and press the gasket firmly into place. 3. Insert new breather bolts (5) through the backplate. 4. Apply Loctite 243 – Blue to the breather bolt threads and the mating tapped holes in the cylinder head. 5. Thread the bolts into the cylinder head, but do not tighten. 6. Thread the air cleaner mounting studs (4) all the way through the backplate (2) until the screw threads are captured in the induction module. Do not tighten completely at this time. 7. Alternately tighten the two breather bolts to 120-144 in- lbs (13.6-16.3 Nm) . 8. Tighten the three air cleaner studs to 55-60 in-lbs (6.2- 6.8 Nm) . 9. Install the fuel tank. Air Cleaner Element and Cover Installation

SUZUKI SV1000 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 26-02-2011

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MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP PRO- CEDURES This section describes the servicing procedures for each item of the Periodic Maintenance requirements. AIR CLEANER I Inspect every 6 000 km (4 000 miles, 6 months) and replace every 18 000 km (11 000 miles, 18 months) . • * Remove the seat. (LF6-7) • * Lift and support the feul tank . (C-74-65) • * Remove the air cleaner box cap O. • * Remove the air cleaner element O. • * Carefully use air hose to blow the dust from the cleaner ele- ment. CAUTION Always use air pressure on the throttle body side of the air cleaner element . If air pressure is used on the other side, dirt will be forced into the pores of the air cleaner element thus restricting air flow through the air cleaner element . PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-5 2-6PERIODIC MAINTENANCE • * Reinstall the cleaned or new air cleaner element in the reverse order of removal . CAUTION If driving under dusty condition, clean the air cleaner element more frequently. The surest way to accelerate engine wear is to use the engine without the element or to use a ruptured element. Make sure that the air cleaner is in good condition at all times. Life of the engine depends largely on this component! NOTE: When cleaning the air cleaner element, drain water from the air cleaner by removing the drain plug . SPARK PLUG Inspect every 6 000 km (4 000 miles, 6 months) and replace every 12 000 km (7 500 miles, 12 months) . No. 1 (FRONT) SPARK PLUG REMOVAL • * Remove the radiator mounting bolt O. • * Move the radiator forward. • * Remove the spark plug cap O. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the radiator fins . A WARNING The hot radiator and the hot engine can burn you . Wait until the radiator and the engine are cool enough to touch . • * Remove the spark plug with a spark plug wrench. 1 6 I It No. 2 (REAR) SPARK PLUG REMOVAL • * Remove the seat. (r–,-6-7) • * Lift and support the fuel tank . (=4-65) 4-65) • * Disconnect the camshaft position sensor 1O and breather hose (Z. • * Remove the rubber heat shield ® . • * Remove the spark plug cap . • * Remove the spark plug with a spark plug wrench . HEAT RANGE • * Check to see the heat range of the plug . CARBON DEPOSIT •Check to see if there are carbon deposits on the plugs . If carbon is deposited, remove it with a spark plug cleaner machine or carefully using a tool with a pointed end . SPARK PLUG GAP • * Measure the plug gap with a thickness gauge . If out of specification, adjust it to the following gap . 09900-20803 : Thickness gauge Spark plug gap OA Standard: 0.6 – 0 .7 mm (0.024 -0.028 in) ELECTRODES CONDITION •Check to see the worn or burnt condition of the electrodes . If it is extremely worn or burnt, replace the plug . And also replace the plug if it has a broken insulator, damaged thread . CAUTION Confirm the thread size and reach when replacing the plug. If the reach is too short, carbon will be deposited on the screw portion of the plug hole and engine damage may result

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Aprilia Falco Synchronizing the Cylinder Vacuum

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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Motorcycle cylinders work quite independently compared to automobiles. Separate carburation, intake manifolds, exhaust pipes and sometimes even independent air filters allow the cylinders to be tuned so that one may be making more power than another. This can be due to differences in air flow, temperature, injection, or valve adjustment betwen the cylinders. Periodically, the cylinders should be synchronized. This is usually done by comparing intake manifold vacuum beneath each throttle and trimming the mixture until balanced. Some old-timers will tell you it can be done by ear, listening to the air flow in each carb throat through a tube stuck in your ear. Most modern tuners have switched to mercury sticks. Rigid tubes stuck in a bath of mercury are attached to the vacuum source. The vacuum draws the mercury up the sticks in proportion to pressure difference between the manifold and the atmosphere. In order to smooth out the individual vacuum pulses, a damping device is needed. This is nothing more than a small orifice (pin hole) restriction in the lines, placed close to the manifold with an air reservoir (length of tube) behind it. Because there is no real air flow in the gauges, there is no pressure drop across the orifice. But when the manifold vacuum drops there is a delay before the gauge pressure can bleed off and it appears steady and readable. Other types of vacuum gauges include mercury-less versions (that draw metal rods), or traditional needle, or “clock” gauges. The clock gauges are very fast acting (they are designed that way so you can see engine problems such as sticking valves). You will definitely need a damper if you choose a clock gauge. I would recommend using two side by side gauges for checking cylinder synch. The reason is, the cylinders are not perfectly independent. As one cylinder drops strength, the idle drops, and this will change the vacuum in the second cylinder’s manifold. It takes a bit of fooling around to get a cause-and-effect feel when you are turning the screws. Swapping gauges would make this difficult

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SCREAMIN' EAGLE "HEAVY BREATHER" PERFORMANCE AIR CLEANER KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-02-2011

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INSTALLATION To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect battery cables (negative (-) cable first) before proceeding. (00307a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Refer to the service manual and follow the instructions given to remove the seat and disconnect the battery cables, negative (-) cable first. Retain all seat mounting hardware. When servicing the fuel system, do not smoke or allow open flame or sparks in the vicinity. Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive, which could result in death or serious injury. (00330a) Original Equipment (OE) Air Cleaner Removal For carbureted models: Refer to the service manual and check the warm-slow idle speed adjustment before removing the OE air cleaner backplate. For EFI (fuel-injected) models: Have a Harley-Davidson dealer recalibrate the ECM prior to air cleaner installation. 2. Remove the air cleaner backplate following the instructions in the service manual. Retain the two breather screws (A) removed from the backplate (see Figure 1). The remaining parts can be discarded. 3. See Figure 1. Remove and discard induction module bracket (B). “Heavy Breather” Air Cleaner Installation NOTE When servicing the air cleaner, apply Loctite 243 (blue) to all threaded fasteners (both male and female threads). 4. Install the new O-rings (4) in the grooves around the breather screw holes on the carburetor or induction module side of the backplate (1 or 2)

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BMW K1100LT Installing Real Cruise Control

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 26-10-2010

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The vacuum reserve canister (VRC) is used to provide adequate vacuum for the cruise control servo unit. It uses the throttle body as a vacuum source and, via the vacuum check valve, stores up vacuum for the servo to use to pull the throttle cable. You can also buy one of these at an auto parts store for about $10-15 but I decided to build my own so I could make one that would fit inside the left front of the main fairing body. If you decide to buy one, make sure you can return it if it doesn’t fit inside the fairing or be prepared to mount it somewhere else like inside the tail cowl. I used 8″ of 2″ diameter PVC tubing because that is the length that would easily fit inside the fairing It is mounted inside the fairing in front of the left “bucket.” I used white PVC tubing but, in hindsight, would use black if possible since it is visible to the rider when mounted in the fairing. I suspect that the cruise control may actually work without the use of the vacuum canister so you might want to try the cruise without a VRC. If you do install the cruise control without a VRC, you’ll want to put a vacuum check valve in the vacuum hose that goes from the throttle body to the cruise control servo unit.
11/30/2005 08:23 PM Installing Real Cruise Control on a BMW K1100 Page 4 of 8 used epoxy for assembling the VRC as it’s my permanent adhesive of choice. Cut an 8″ length of 2″ diameter PVC tubing. Sand the edges. Drill two holes as shown for the check valve and vacuum tee. There’s a vacuum tee in the bags of installation miscellany that come with the cruise control. File the webbing from the right angles before gluing it and the check valve in place. Remember to glue the tee into place before gluing the end caps on. Make sure everything has an airtight seal. I used zip-ties to hold it in place inside the main fairing body in front of the left bucket

HARLEY DAVIDSON AIR CLEANER COVER MEDALLION KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 14-02-2011

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INSTALLATION NOTE All kits except number 29795-02, 29833-06, 29888-06, 29898- 06, and 29929-07 will need to install the medallion onto the insert. Kits 29795-02, 29833-06 and 29888-06 skip to Step 4. 1. See Figure 1. Clean mounting area on insert (2) thoroughly with rubbing alcohol and allow to dry. 2. Remove backing from medallion (3). 3. Carefully place medallion (3) in center of mounting area pressing firmly to activate adhesive. NOTE The medallion will be secure upon contact. Adhesive cures completely in 24 hours. 4. See Figure 1. Carefully press the insert (2)(with medallion installed) and o-ring (1) into the air cleaner cover as shown. SERVICE PARTS 2 A 3 1 is 01866 Figure 1. Service Parts: Air Cleaner Cover Medallion Kit Table 2. Service Parts: Air Cleaner Cover Medallion Kit Part Number Description (Quantity) Item 27226-00 O-ring 1 Not Sold Separately Insert 2 Not Sold Separately Medallion (all kits except 29795- 02, 29833-06, 29888-06, 29898- 06, 29929-07) 3 Items mentioned in text, but not included in kit. Part of Air Cleaner Cover Kit 29745-00A, sold sepa- ratel

Aprilia – General Scottoiler Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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The vacuum connection is the same for the Aprilia RST Futura & Capo Nord models. On the left hand side of the bike (sitting on the bike) are two pipes from the airbox. Cut into one of these pipes & insert the special T-Piece (not included in the Mk 7 kit), as shown left. Then press the Damper Elbow, part number 4 from the Scottoiler kit, onto the third leg of the tee. The vacuum connection on the RSV Mille and Falco models is different from above. For 1998 models, underneath the tank is a vacuum pipe, as shown left. Cut into this pipe, and insert the special T-Piece (not included in the Mk 7 kit). Push the Damper Elbow, part number 4, onto the third leg of the tee. Vacuum connection for 2000 models, there is a rubber bung over a spigot on the inlet tract, as shown left. Remove the rubber bung and replace it with the Damper Elbow, part number 4 from the Scottoiler kit, as shown below. You may need to gently heat the Damper Elbow ease fitting it onto the spigot. Once you’ve fitted part number 4, push the vacuum tubing into the end of the Damper Elbow and route neatly along the bike towards the RMV position, as shown later in this document. The picture on the left shows the vacuum connection on later models of Aprilia Mille, 2004 onwards. Cut the tube shown, and insert the standard tee piece from the Scottoiler kit. Push the vacuum damper elbow, part number 4, onto the third leg of the tee piece, and fit the vacuum tubing into the damper elbow by pushing in securely. Route vacuum tubing along bike to RMV position

HI-4 DUAL FIRE MOTORCYCLE IGNITION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Turn ignition switch off and disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Refer to Figure 3. Remove OE ignition module and wire harness (items 1-4). You will disconnect two wires at the coil (15), a wire going to the VOES (Vacuum Operated Electrical Switch) (18), a black ground wire at the ignition module, and the 3 pin plug (20) that connects to the sensor plate (11). Refer to shop manual for locations. 3. Remove ignition cover plates and gasket (items 5- 9). This will require drilling out two rivets. The rivets will later be replaced with two supplied self- threading screws. 4. In order to remove the sensor plate cable, the cable plug (20) must be removed first. Use needle nose pliers to pull the terminals out of the plug. Then pull the cable through the exit hole at the bottom of the timing cover. 5. Note location of sensor plate (11). There is a V notch in the sensor plate used for alignment. When you install the HI-4, you should align the V notch in the same location. This should set the timing close enough to start the engine. Remove and save the two standoffs and washers (10). Remove the sensor plate (11). HI-4 INSTALLATION Refer to Figure 4. The HI-4 requires use of the OE timing rotor P/N 32402-83 (used only on 1985 and newer models). If you have an older model or are not sure, check the rotor (9) for the correct part number. For models prior to 1980, use the supplied 10-32 x ¾”bolt and washer to mount the rotor. 1. Install the HI-4 system in place of the OE breaker or sensor plate. Rotate the HI-4 about 90 degrees to give better access to the cable exit hole. Install the HI-4 first, then push the cable through the hole. On some early models it may be necessary to enlarge the wire harness exit hole in the gear cover. Align the V notch on the HI-4 same as the OE plate you removed. Use the OE standoffs to secure the HI-4. You must use lockwashers under the standoffs for proper clearance between the HI-4 and cover plate. Do not fully tighten the standoffs until the timing has been set. 2. Route the HI-4 wire harness along the frame rails up to the coil. Make sure that harness will not be chafed or burned by exhaust heat. Secure harness with tie wraps. Do not install timing cover. HI-4 HOOKUP Crimp terminals and hardware are supplied for your convenience. Use the ring terminals for coil hookup. Use male-female quick disconnects for connections to the tach and vacuum switch (VOES). Tape up any unused wires. 1. Circuit Breaker Cover Screws (2) 2. Circuit Breaker Cover 3. Circuit Breaker Cover Gasket 4. Breaker Plate Screws (2) 5. Breaker Plate Screw Lockwashers & Washers (2 each) 6. Retainer (1971 to early 1972) 7. Circuit Breaker Cam Bolt 8. Breaker Plate Assembly 9. Breaker Cam 10. Advance Assembly 11. Gear Case Cover 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Damage will result if the brown tach wire comes in contact with +12V. Figure 1. Harley-Davidson®OE Points System
9000-4002A REV A 3 2/05 1. Identify switched +12 volt wire and tach wire (if equipped) going to the coil. Refer to your service manual, or reconnect the battery and use a test light or voltmeter. The switched +12 volt wire will be hot when the ignition key is turned on. 2. Refer to Figure 5. Connect the HI-4 red wire and switched +12 volt wire to Coil positive. 3. The HI-4 white wire is not used and should be taped. 4. Connect the HI-4 black wire to the Coil negative terminal. 5. Connect the HI-4 green wire to the vacuum switch (Figure 3, item 18), if used. 6. Connect the HI-4 brown wire to the tach wire, if equipped with tach. Tape up if unused. 7. The HI-4 is grounded via the timing housing; a separate ground connection is not required. 8. Reconnect battery ground cable. Verify proper ground connections to the frame and engine. VOES HOOKUP The OE vacuum switch (VOES) is normally an open circuit. Above 3-5 inch-Hg vacuum, the VOES closes and grounds the vacuum input on the OE ignition module. This increases the total advance generated by the OE ignition module. Vacuum advance improves part throttle 17 16 1. Cover Screws (2) 2. Ignition Timer Cover 3. Ignition Module 4. Timer Plate Screws (2) 5. Washers (2) 6. Screws & Washers (2 each) 7. Shield 8. Sensor 9. Trigger Rotor Bolt 10. Timer Plate 11. Trigger Rotor 12. Advance Assembly 13. Gear Case Cover 14. Ignition Coil 15. Spark Plug Wires (2) 16. Ignition Coil Terminal (FX) 17. Ignition Coil Terminal (FL) 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Most motorcycle coils do not have terminals marked. Use either terminal for Coil+ (positive) and the other one for Coil- (negative). Warning: The HI-4 (8-1100) Dual Fire ignition will not work with 2 plugs per head, dual coil application. Damage will result if attempted. Use the HI-4 (8-2100) single fire ignition for 2 plugs per head applications

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HARLEY DAVIDSON EFI INTAKE MANIFOLD COVER INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-04-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. See Figure 1. Remove screw (A) that holds the air cleaner cover (B) and seal (C). 2. Remove three T27 TORX® screws (D) to release the cover bracket (E) from the filter element (F). 3. Remove the filter element, pulling the two breather tubes (G) from hole on the inboard side of element. 4. Remove the two breather tubes (G) from the fittings on the two cylinder head breather bolts (I). 5. Remove the two breather bolts (I) and O-ring seals (K) from the air cleaner backplate (J) with a 7/16 inch deepwell socket. 6. Remove the backplate and gasket (H) from the injection module. 7. Aligning the flat edge of a new cover gasket (2) with the backplate molded tab, install a gasket (2), chrome cover (1) and second gasket, in order, on the air cleaner back- plate. 8. Install the breather bolts through the air cleaner backplate. Re-install O-ring seals onto each breather bolt. Install a washer (3) from the kit on each breather bolt. Apply Loctite 243 to the breather bolts and align holes in the backplate with the holes in the cylinder heads and install the breather bolts. Use a 7/16 inch deepwell socket and alternately tighten the breather bolts to 120-144 in-lbs (13.6-16.3 Nm) . 9. Slide gasket over the sleeve on the inboard side of filter element. 10. Install breather tubes about 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) into holes on inboard side of filter element. 11. Install breather tubes onto fittings of two cylinder head breather bolts. NOTE Air cleaner mounting without installation of the breather tubes allows crankcase vapors to be vented into atmosphere in violation of legal emissions standards. 12. Place the filter element onto backplate, with the flat side down, so that the hole on the inboard side of element fits over the molded boss in the backplate. 13. Align holes in cover bracket with those in filter element and start three screws. Stamp on cover bracket points downwards. Use a T27 TORX drive head, alternately tighten screws to 20-40 in-lbs (2.3-4.5 Nm) . 14. Make sure that the rubber seal is proper seated around perimeter of air cleaner cover and place cover on back- plate. 15. Fit the air cleaner cover onto backplate. Apply Loctite 243 to the threads of air cleaner cover screw. Install screw through cover and tighten to 36-60 in-lbs (4.1-6.8 Nm)

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