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Aermacchi IHRO1 Machine Specifications

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Filed Under (Aermacchi) by admin on 13-11-2010

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1. IHRO 1 caters for single cylinder thoroughbred Grand Prix racing motorcycles constructed during the period 1945-1972 inclusive, for the specific purpose of participation in Grand Prix competition during that era. Maximum capacity for any machine is 500cc, and wherever possible it is intended to run three classes, for machines up to 250cc, 350cc and 500cc. 2. Motorcycles must be presented in original, period condition, with no external updating. Period appearance seats, fuel tanks and fairings (if fitted) must be used. No external changes may be made to the appearance of any machine unless it can be proved that such a change was made in the period. Modern safety fixtures required by some federations and modifications mentioned in this document are not covered by this ruling. 3. No disc brakes are allowed. Drum brakes only may be used. 4. No alloy/magnesium wheels are allowed. Wire wheels only may be used. 5. All machines must have twin shock rear suspension: No monoshocks except Vincent Grey Flash. Suspension units must resemble period components, i.e. no external gas reservoirs etc. 6. All frames and swinging arms must conform exactly to period appearance; no box section swinging arms allowed unless fitted by the manufacturer to that machine in the period. 7. The maximum permitted rim width on either wheel is WM3. 8. No slick tyres, hand cut slicks or modern racing tyres designated by the manufacturer as being exclusively for wet weather use are permitted. Only the following rear tyres may be fitted. Any 19″ tyre. The following 18″ tyres, Dunlop 3.50×18, 3.50/3.25×18 KR124 and KR124A, Avon AM22 110/80×18 Rear Fitment and Avon AM18 120×18 9. Choice of carburettor is free, provided that this is of a period type cylindrical slide model, albeit of a later manufacture. Flat slide instruments are not permitted with the exception of Gardner carburettors. Fuel injection is not permitted except if it can be proved that particular motorcycle ran between 1945-72 with the same type of injection system fitted. A Wal Philips injector is classified under this heading. 10. The type of fuel used must conform to the ACU and FIM’s current fuel regulations for 100LL Avgas at 102 MON. See full specifications below. All machines must finish a race with a minimum of 2 litres of fuel in the tank to allow a sample to be taken for analysis. 11. The use of belt primary drives is encouraged.

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8950 and 8960 Series High Performance Tire Changer Operation Manual

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 23-11-2010

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GENERAL CAUTIONS A. DURING THE USE AND MAINTENANCE OF THE MACHINE IT IS MANDATORY TO COMPLY WITH ALL LAWS AND REGULATIONS FOR ACCIDENT PREVEN- TION. B. THE ELECTRICAL POWER SOURCE MUST HAVE A GROUND CABLE AND THE GROUND CABLE OF THE MACHINE MUST BE CONNECTED TO THE GROUND CABLE OF THE POWER SOURCE. C. BEFORE ANY MAINTENANCE OR REPAIRS ARE ACCOMPLISHED THE MACHINE MUST BE DISCONNECTED FROM THE AIR AND ELECTRICAL SUPPLY. D. NEVER WEAR TIES, CHAINS OR OTHER LOOSE ARTICLES WHEN USING, MAINTAINING OR REPAIRING THE MACHINE. LONG HAIR IS ALSO DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE KEPT UNDER A HAT. THE USER MUST WEAR PROPER SAFETY ATTIRE – GLOVES, SAFETY SHOES AND GLASSES. 2.0 INSTALLATION Your new JBC 8950 or 8960 Series Tire Changer requires a simple installation procedure requiring only a few moments. Follow these instructions carefully to insure proper and safe operation. The Tire Changer is delivered mounted to a wooden skid. Remove tire changer from its mounts carefully, taking care to avoid any back strain. Place Changer where proper operation will be unobstructed to all sides. Install the machine in a covered and dry place. 2.0.1 Models with SRA attached (8955IN, 8965IN) Once placed in the desired location the tire changer must be bolted to the floor using only the rear two mounting holes. Mounting anchors are provided with those machines with a Safety Restraint Arm. Tire Changer must be anchored to concrete floor if equipped with a “Safety Restraint Arm” BUILDING ELECTRICAL INSTALLATION MUST BE MADE BY A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN. Check that the electrical specifications of the power source are the same of the machine. The machine uses 110v, 60 hz, single phase 20 amp source. Electric specifications are clearly marked on a label at the rear of the machine. FAILURE TO PROVIDE PROPER ELECTRICAL SUPPLY AND GROUNDING WILL CREATE A SHOCK HAZARD TO THE OPERATOR

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HONDA 420 RANCHER 2×4/4×4 2007-2009 CLUTCH KIT INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 22-12-2011

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Remove key from the ignition switch. Remove the side panels from both sides. Remove both foot wells. 2. Drain coolant. Remove the oil drain plug from the motor; if you carefully drain it into a clean container you should be able to reuse it. 3. Disconnect shift motor (on electric shift models only). Remove coolant hoses. 4. Remove the bolts that mount the front differential to the frame, no other parts need to be removed. Carefully slide the front differential towards the front of the machine; you might need to lift up slightly to get the differential to move. Remove the drive shaft. Remove o-ring on output shaft (on motor). 5. Remove the fuel pump. 6. Loosen the front crankcase cover bolts, keep track of each bolt length and location. Slowly remove the crankcase cover. Carefully watch for o-ring shims and dowel pins that may fall out. 7. Unstake the nut holding the clutch on and remove nut. Using Honda tool #07933-HB3000A thread the large part of the tool into the center of the clutch. Tighten the center bolt on the tool while holding the large part of the tool with a wrench. This will pull the clutch off the machine. Place the clutch on a clean work surface. EPI performance.com
8. Using the c-clamps push down slightly on the outside cover and remove the four e-clips. Keeping track of which way they come off, remove the round metal plates one at a time. This will allow you to see the complete spring. Remove one end of each spring using a spring tool or needle nose pliers and then remove springs. Install the EPI springs by inserting the spring into the outer edge first. Using a spring tool or pliers (45 degree bent pliers work well) pull on the spring and insert the end into the hole. Install the metal plates and the e-clips. If you can’t get the plates to sit flat make sure each clutch arm is flat against the bottom plate of the clutch. Occasionally when you put the springs on, the clutch arms will pop up. Slide the clutch into the machine. The Sprague clutch is marked “outside” when installing make sure this is facing out. Torque clutch nut to 87 ft/lbs. 9. Clean the gasket surface on the motor and on the cover. Put a thin layer of Honda Bond or Yamabond semi-drying liquid gasket (or something similar as long as it is semi-drying) on the crankcase cover. Carefully install crankcase cover, do not force cover on. Torque bolts to 9 ft/lbs. 10. Install the fuel pump. 11. Install the o-ring on the output shaft (on motor) and install the drive shaft. Carefully slide the front differential back into place and mount to the frame. Install the coolant hoses. Refill your engine coolant to the proper level according to your owner’s manual. 12. Install the oil drain plug. Refill your engine to the proper level according to your owner’s manual. You can reuse your oil if it is clean and was drained into a clean container. Only use manufactures recommended oil. 13. Be sure to double check coolant and oil levels and to look for any leaks after the machine has run for a few minutes. 14. Go out and ride your machine. If your performance doesn’t seem right double check to make sure everything has been done properly. 15. EPI is constantly testing our products. Sometimes there is a need to contact the user with new technical information. To ensure that you are receiving this information visit our web site EPIperformance.com to register your clutch kit.

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1945-1957 AJS Pitmans Installaiton Manual

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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AN A.J.S. O.H.V. single is easy to handle, and even the absolute novice quickly acquires confidence in the saddle. Beware, however, that you do not indulge in big throttle openings until you have had ample road experience. Also do not forget to digest the Highway Code. FIG. 1. A FLEXIBLE AND FAST TOURER WITH CLEAN LINES AND MECHANICAL QUIETNESS – THE 1957 MODEL 18S The 500 c.c. A.J.S. model shown is similar to the 350 c.c. model 16MS. Both models have snappy push rod O.H.V. engines with light-alloy cylinder heads, “Monobloc” carburettors, hairpin valve-springs, and automatic-ignition control. Their specification includes: “Teledraulic” front forks, Girling rear-suspension units, a quickly detachable rear wheel, die-cast light-alloy hubs, a deep secondary-chain guard, a new A.M.C. four- speed gearbox, Lucas headlamp, twin pilot-lights, and other attractive features. * The A.J.S. engine and frame numbers required on Form R.F. 1/2 will be found on the near-side of the crankcase and the off-side of the saddle lug, or on the off-side of the front down-tube (later models). THE BOOK OF THE A.J.S. 1 Essential Preliminaries. Before you can legally ride on the road – (1) Insure against all third-party risks and obtain the vital “certificate of insurance.” With a new machine you cannot get this until the machine is licensed, and an insurance “cover note” must be obtained. If you have a valuable machine, you are advised to take out full comprehensive insurance. (2) Obtain the registration licence and registration book (Form R.F.I/2)* or renew the licence (Form R.F. I/A). (3) Obtain a three-monthly “provisional” or an annual driving licence (Form D.L.I).* (4) Fit a reliable speedometer if one is not fitted (not essential if machine registered prior to 1st Oct., 1937). (5) If you carry a pillion-passenger, see that he or she sits astride a proper pillion seat securely fixed to the machine (all “springers” have dualseats), and that the passenger holds a current annual or substantive driving licence for Group G if you are a “learner.” (6) If you are ineligible for an annual or substantive driving licence, attach “L” plates to the front and back of the machine. (7) If not already provided, fit a red reflector (1½ in. minimum diameter) vertically at the rear of the motor-cycle and, on a sidecar outfit, an additional red reflector and rear lamp at the rear of the sidecar and at the same height as those on the motor-cycle. (8) Use an ignition-suppression type sparking plug or terminal cover if the machine was registered for the first time after 1. st July, 1953. All the official forms referred to above may be obtained from any money-order post office. See also footnote **, with reference to Forms R.F, 1/A or R.F. 112. You are not eligible for a substantive driving licence for Group G unless you are 16 and have complied with one of these conditions- (a) You have held a licence (other than a provisional or Visitor’s licence authorizing the driving of vehicles of the class or description applied for within a period of ten years ending on the date of coming into force of the licence applied for. (b) You have passed the prescribed driving test (this includes a test passed while serving in H.M. Forces) during the said period of ten years

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Kawasaki Fairing-Mount Light Housings Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Locate the recessed area of the fairing, directly below the headlight. 2. Position the RIGHT light housing in this area. This light housing is correctly positioned when the label panel is centered directly below the headlight. 3. With the housing in it’s proper mounting position, insert the transfer punch into the center mounting hole located in the middle of the label panel. Carefully mark the center mounting hole drilling area. 4. Remove the headlight and the headlight bucket so that the backside of the drilling area can be accessed. Reach into the fairing and move any and all wires that might be damaged by the drilling process. 5. Using the 13/64″ drill bit, carefully drill through the fairing at the location marked with the transfer punch. Return the housing to it’s mounting location and insert the supplied machine screw through the center mounting hole in the label panel. While holding the housing and screw in position, reach into the fairing and place a flat washer and stop nut onto the screw. Gently tighten this nut until the housing is snug. WARNING! The fairing material can easily be damaged by excessive stress exerted upon the fiberglass fairing material. Tightening the nuts used in mounting these fairing light housings beyond an appropriate level will crack or fracture the fairing! DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN! 7. Locate the right-rear mounting hole on the housing. Insert the transfer punch into this mounting hole and carefully mark the right-rear mounting hole drilling area. Reach into the fairing and move any and all wires that might be damaged by the drilling process

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Yamaha 2005 R1 Bike Tech Sheet

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 18-01-2012

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Engine: Type: Liquid cooled, four stroke, transverse four cylinder, DOHC, 5 valves per cylinder. Displacement: 1000cc Year: 2005 Horsepower: 180hp Clutch: PM Exhaust: Vance & Hines Race Exhaust Mufflers: Vance & Hines Frame: Type: Stock Year: 2005 Swing Arm: Performance Machine Chromoly +4 Extended Shocks: Race Tech Modifications: Race Tech Tuned and Lowered. Forks: Stock lowered 2.5″ Rim: Performance Machine Contrast Cut Torque Size: 19″ X 3.0″ Finish: Contrast Cut Fender: None Tire: Dunlop Sportmax D208ZR 120/70ZR19 Brake: Dual Performance Machine 4 piston Radial Calipers Wheels Rear: Rim: Performance Machine Contrast Cut Torque Size: 18″ X 8.5″ Brake: Performance Machine 4 piston Radial Caliper Finish: Contrast Cut Tire: Dunlop Elite3 250/40/R18 Other Parts: Handlebars: Stock Foot Controls: Over Racing Seat: Stock Turn Signals F/R: Anything Extra? Mirrors: Performance Machine Torque chrome Mirrors 19″ FRONT WHEEL! Paint, Chrome, and other F/X’s: Colors: yellow/Black Type: Special Paint: AirTrix Industries The Painter: Chris Wood Powder Coating: A to Z Coatings

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MACHINE SPECIFICATION FOR 115cc (UNDERBONE) (4-stroke horizontal layout engine)

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 12-12-2010

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(This is for clarification only. Other parts not listed in Art. 2.5 & 2.6 can be altered or replaced. Change of specification means modification, changes or removal of the parts.) 2.6.1 Change of compression ratio is allowed. 2.6.2 Setting of carburetor, attachment or size change of air funnel. 2.6.3 Inlet opening of fuel tank for fuel charge may be modified but cannot be relocated. 2.6.4 Change of fuel pipe and fuel cork. 2.6.5 Change of exhaust pipe and muffler, but must have silencer. 2.6.6 Material of clutch discs and specifications of spring. Hand clutch is allowed. 2.6.7 Gear ratios are free. 2.6.8 Starting device and parts relative to this device may be removed. 2.6.9 Modification or removal of air cleaner box, wire harness and control wires. 2.6.10 Removal of speedometer (including meter gearbox and cable.) 2.6.11 Removal of drive chain case and cover. Change of drive chain is allowed. 2.6.12 Change of final gear ratio is allowed. 2.6.13 Attachment of bead stopper and balance weight to tyre. 2.6.14 Modification and change of rear brake part is allowed. 2.6.15 Frame body may be strengthened. 2.6.16 Modification and change to brackets and pedals including footrest. 2.6.17 Front suspension unit must remain as originally produced by the manufacturer. However, the following internal parts of the fork can be modified: Shims, hydraulic piston, oil passages, springs and spacers. 2.6.18 Attachment of stabilizer to strengthen or reinforcing rear swing arm is allowed. 2.6.19 Removal of dust seals. 2.6.20 Rear suspension unit must remain as originally produced by the manufacturer. However rear suspension unit is free. The rear linkage must remain as originally produced by the manufacturer. 2.6.21 Handle bars, clutch and front brake lever may be changed by an after market copy. Clutch springs may be changed. 2.6.22 Steering dampers may be fitted. They must not act in any way as a steering lock limiting device. 2.6.23 Materials of streamlining and material of seat cowling. (However, expensive materials such as carbon fibre and kevlar are not allowed). 2.6.24 Removal of rear mudguard and side cover. Front mudguard may be cut but not less than 6 inches from the front fork on original part. 2.6.25 All lubricants are free 2.6.26 Adjusting and polishing any parts are allowed. Adjusting is defined as : “To select each part or assembly complete with-in the limit of single or total tolerance” (i.e. that of valve clearance, ignition timing etc.) 2.6.27 Cutting unnecessary stays is

2006 King Cobra Service Procedure

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Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Cobra CX50 SR is a close-tolerance high performance machine and break- in time is very important for maximum life and performance. The CX50 SR can be ridden hard after the first ½ hour break-in time but it is recommended that no adjustments are made to the carburetion or suspension until the full 8 hours of bike break-in has elapsed. Also, after the engine, transmission, and drive train have been broken-in for the full 8 hours, the bike will be faster! Use a fuel / oil mixture of 32:1 for the full 8 hour break-in period. Be sure to use high-octane pump gas, with Cobra’s specially formulated Cobra Venom 2-cycle Race Oil . (Part # MCMUOL02) CAUTION: Failure to use proper fuel, oil, or fuel/oil mixture may result in premature engine wear or damage to the machine. Adhering to the following break-in schedule will result in long lasting high performance machine. • Start bike on stand • First 5 minute period, operate the bike on the stand with a combination of idle and high RPM operation. (avoid prolonged high RPM but spin the rear wheel good at least once or twice per minute) • Allow bike to cool • Ride for 15 minutes maximum (avoid prolonged high RPM operation and avoid abusing the clutch with throttle blipping. • Cool and inspect bike for loose fasteners. • Next ½ hour of operation, avoid prolonged operation at Wide Open Throttle. • After 1 hour of operation o Check for loose bolts and nuts on the bike and retighten as necessary (proper toque values are listed under Specifications). o Clean the carburetor bowl. o Change the transmission / clutch lubricant. • After 8 hours of operation o Change the fork oil. o Have a Certified Cobra Mechanic change the shock oil. • Your bike is now ready for the highest level of competition! NOTE: During break-in the bike will likely lose some engine coolant through the radiator overflow hose. Losing up to 4 oz (120 ml, ½ cup) is normal. Proper coolant level will cover the top of the radiator cores. Removing the radiator cap and looking inside is the only way to check the coolant level. 8
Never open the radiator cap of a machine that has a hot or warm engine or one that has recently been ridden. Burning and scalding could occur. CAUTION: It is important that the radiator cap is installed correctly and completely otherwise engine damage could occur. Starting Procedure Before starting the machine inspect the following: • Check for proper tire pressure in both tires. • Observe the chain tension and adjust if necessary. • Observe the coolant level and fill if necessary. • Verify that the chain rollers and sliders do not have improper wear. • Verify that the handlebars are tight. • Check the throttle for smooth operation and that it ‘clacks’ shut properly. • Check for loose bolts and nuts, and re-torque as necessary. • Verify that the air filter is clean and properly saturated with oil. • Insure that the fuel tank contains an adequate volume of fuel / oil mixture to complete the distance required. (High octane pump gas with Cobra’s specially formulated Cobra Venom 2-cycle Race Oil ) • Turn the fuel on by rotating the fuel petcock knob to the vertically downward position (reserve position is horizontally forward) CAUTION: For best results from your Cobra Motorcycle use only the recommended fuels. Testing has shown that most ‘race’ fuels actually degrade performance. Always wear a helmet and other protective riding gear. When your pre-ride inspection is complete the bike may be started. For a cold engine follow this procedure. 1. Place the motorcycle on a stand of sufficient strength that positions the motorcycle in a level upright position with the rear wheel off the ground. 2. Pull up the choke knob and turn it to lock it. 3. Kick start the engine. 4. Rev the engine in short spurts, turning the throttle no more than 1/4 open until the engine will run without the choke.

HARLEY DAVIDSON VRSCF LUGGAGE RACK KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-03-2011

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REMOVAL 1. See Figure 1. Remove four rear fender mounting bolts (1) and washers (2). If necessary, move the ECM to access the four fender mounting bolts. 2. Disconnect the tail lamp following the instructions in the appropriate service manual. 1 2 is05463 1. Bolt (4) 2. Washer (4) Figure 1. Fender Mounting Bolts INSTALLATION NOTE There are bosses molded into the inside of the fender to use as the hole drilling templates. 1. See Figure 2. Apply masking tape to the outside painted surface of the fender at the three hole locations (1 and 2). This will protect the painted surface during the drilling operation. 2. Put the fender on a work bench, painted surface down. Use clean, soft cloth between the fender and the work bench to protect the paint finish. NOTES Drilling each hole in the fender is a two-step procedure that requires a specific type of drill bit to avoid damaging the fender. 3. See Figure 2. Use a 1/2-inch spade bit or 1/2-inch unibit (do not use a spiral-type drill bit) to drill three holes from the inside of the fender through the three pilot hole bosses (1 and 2). Stop drilling when the tip of the bit just pierces the outside surface of the fender. 4. Turn the fender over so the painted surface is now facing up. Complete each hole by using the same 1/2-inch drill bit at each of the pierced holes. Clean excess material from the holes and clean the fender surface of any debris. 5. See Figure 5. Remove the masking tape from the holes and apply the protective tape (3) to the painted surface using the drilled holes for alignment. 6. See Figure 3. Put the luggage rack (1) upside down on the work bench and align the holes in the luggage rack with the holes in the fender (2).

Harley Davidson BoonDocker Nitrous System Installation MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-03-2012

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BoonDocker Liquid Nitrous – 1589 Hollipark Dr. Idaho Falls, ID 83401 – (208) 542-4411 web site: www. boon dockers. com – email: info@boon dockers. com Revised 02-27-04 Page 2 of 10 This manifold is also designed to vary the float bowl pressure in relation to nitrous pressure, thus keeping the nitrous and fuel delivery in sync. Fluctuations in bottle temperature greatly affect nitrous pressure, which affects nitrous delivery. By automatically adjusting the fuel delivery as nitrous pressure varies, this manifold makes nitrous safe, reliable, and easy to use. Be sure to understand and follow the tuning instructions at the end of these instructions. Proper tuning is an important part of any performance-enhancing product. Part I – Bottle Installation A. Bottle Valve Fittings Insert the 4AN x 1/8″ NPT fitting and the 1/8″ NPT Plug into the bottle valve (these are attached to the lid of the box for the bottle) . Use Teflon tape to seal the threads – be sure not to get tape inside the threads! B. Bottle Mounting Position With nitrous in the bottle, both nitrous liquid and nitrous gas are present under high pressure (760 psi at 70 deg F) . Due to gravity and acceleration forces, the liquid portion of the nitrous will be at the bottom and rearward parts of the bottle. For this nitrous system to work properly, it is important that nitrous liquid be drawn from the bottle. Nitrous vapor will cause a significant decrease in performance. For best results, the bottle should be mounted so the valve is pointed down and towards the back of the vehicle as shown below. ************** *************** ******** ********* *************** (can be installed on top or bottom of air boot) ********** ********* push-button switch (mounts on handlebar) +12 V *********** ************ **** ****** *! “**#$******%* *! “**#$*#*%* 20 deg to 90 Front of motorcycle Rear of motorcycle BoonDocker Liquid Nitrous – 1589 Hollipark Dr. Idaho Falls, ID 83401 – (208) 542-4411 web site: www. boon dockers. com – email: info@boon dockers. com Revised 02-27-04 Page 3 of 10 Bottle mounted inside airbox: For some applications, a small bottle can be mounted inside the airbox as shown. Note: because of the restricted space, it was necessary to mount this bottle at a non-optimal angle (the valve is pointed towards the front instead of the rear)

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