86 yamaha bw80 stock carb settings

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KAWASAKI 1500 CARB THUNDER Air Filter Kit Installation And removal Instruction

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) Remove Seat 10mm KAW 1500 CARB ADPTOR QTY PARTS LIST 1 1500 CARB ADAPTOR 1 3″ PIECE OF HOSE 1 DOUBLE BARB 1 L-BARB 1 3/8″ RED PLUG 1 ¼” BLACK VACCUM PLUG 1 M6-1 NYLON INSERT LOCK NUT 3 M6-1 X 16 FLAT SOCKET HD CAP SCREW 1 170 MJ 1 INSTRUCTIONS 2) Remove Dash Plaque 8mm bottom Bolt only 3) Lift from bottom then Remove speedo cable 4) Disconnect Electric Plugs 5) Remove 12mm bolts holding tank 6) Turn petcock OFF – Pinch off fuel line. 7) Disconnect the electric Plug under speedo opening 8) Lift Tank at Rear – Disconnect two Vent Lines; Fuel gage Vent will Pull up – Remove. 9) Remove Chrome Air Cover. 10) Left side Remove two screws – 10mm bolt in side Air box. Pull hoses off Remove 1″ hose going to cross over Tube. 11) Remove two 8mm bolts on Bracket – Remove Bracket 12) Remove Screw on Top of air Box Snorkel 13) Remove both side covers 14) Remove air Backing plate right side (Crank Case Breather hose that connects to stock air box will connect to new) 15) Remove Bracket that holds Carb and holds Backing Plate 16) Take idle adjustable Knob loose – let hang loose 17) Take Choke Knob out of holding Bracket 18) Hose that went to cross over tube MAY BE PLUGGED OR VENTED your Choice (Fresh air unit) ** 98′S or any models with carb warmer should disconnect carb warmer by pinching off line on each side of connector that plugs into carb on bottom. Small bracket with one screw directly on the bottom of carb. 19) Loosen Clamp that holds Carb to intake Manifold, Carb will hang loose 20) Remove intake Manifold 5mm Allen- Remove crossover tube. 21) (- BE CAREFULL-) LINE IT UP RIGHT- Replace intake Manifold (YOU MAY TO SEAL THIS WITH A SEALER LIKE PERMATEX) ( BE SUPER CAREFUL TO KEEP INTAKE COVERED DURING EACH STEP. SCREWS CAN FALL ONTO INTAKE) 22) Drain Float Bowl 3mm allen – very bottom of carb 23) Remove Float Bowl 4 screws (#2 Phillips) let hang down 24) Remove main jet, if Emulsion tube comes out use 8mm and Flat tip to separate jet from Emulsion tube. 25) Install with new jet 26) CAREFULLY Reinstall Float Bowl Cover 27) If installing Needle Remove Top Cover of Carb, Carefully pull the slide out. ( BE CAREFUL WITH DIAPHRAM) Remove Spring + Needle Install new Needle (WE RECOMMEND THE 3RD CLIP FROM TOP WITH TWO WASHERS ON TOP. REINSTALL 28) Be sure to reseat diaphragm – BE CAREFUL Reinstall Cover. 29) Install Carb to Intake – reconnect carb warmer if applicable 30) Reattach idle adjustment 31) Reattach Choke 32) Reattach Bracket in front of Carb- 33) Take Center bolt mount Rubber Gromlet from Stock Air box Plate install in to new Air box Adapter use stock Bolt, Attach to Bracke

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42MM MIKUNI FLATSLIDE CARBURETOR INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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To install, remove the stock carb per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Remove stock throttle cables. Install Mikuni HSR carb into intake manifold and tighten manifold clamp. Install new HSR series throttle cables and adjust cable slack per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Hook fuel line to HSR carb and fasten clamp.* Start motorcycle and fine tune HSR carb for proper running per supplied Mikuni tuning manual. *NOTE: Mikuni HSR series carburetors are designed for gravity-feed fuel systems. You should bypass your stock fuel pump and directly feed your HSR carb right from the fuel petcock. We have noted, though, that you may not be able to get good fuel flow from your Road Star fuel tank in low-fuel situations. You may run your stock fuel pump with the HSR carb, but to do so requires the purchase and installation of an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (set at 1/2 to 1 lb. of pressure). These are available from most auto parts stores. The stock carb has 2 wires running to the lower rear of the float bowl , these were for a carb warmer, they are not used in this application. Unplug these wires at the main wire harness and retain with your stock carb. The Road Star ignition system uses data from the stock throttle position sensor (TPS) to manage your ignition timing. It is necessary to give the bike this information. You may do so by removing the TPS sensor from the stock carb, leaving it plugged into the main wire harness (the sensor must be fixed to a closed-throttle position), or you may locate the plug for the TPS on the main wire harness and test the leads – you will find one ground, one with .5V and one with 1.5V. Connect the 1.5V to the ground and this will give the bike the same information as stock fully closed throttle. The output of the OEM fuel pump is too high and will cause fuel overflow in the HSR carb, resulting in a possible dangerous fire hazard

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Mikuni HSR 42/ 45 Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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To install, remove the stock carb per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Remove stock throttle cables. Install Mikuni HSR carb into intake manifold and tighten manifold clamp. Install new HSR series throttle cables and adjust cable slack per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Hook fuel line to HSR carb and fasten clamp.* Start motorcycle and fine tune HSR carb for proper running per supplied Mikuni tuning manual. *NOTE: Mikuni HSR series carburetors are designed for gravity-feed fuel systems. You should bypass your stock fuel pump and directly feed your HSR carb right from the fuel petcock. We have noted, though, that you may not be able to get good fuel flow from your Road Star fuel tank in low-fuel situations. You may run your stock fuel pump with the HSR carb, but to do so requires the purchase and installation of an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (set at ½ to 1 lb. of pressure). These are available from most auto parts stores. The stock carb has 2 wires running to the lower rear of the float bowl , these were for a carb warmer, they are not used in this application. Unplug these wires at the main wire harness and retain with your stock carb. The Road Star ignition system uses data from the stock throttle position sensor (TPS) to manage your ignition timing. It is necessary to give the bike this information. You may do so by removing the TPS sensor from the stock carb, leaving it plugged into the main wire harness (the sensor must be fixed to a closed-throttle position), or you may locate the plug for the TPS on the main wire harness and test the leads – you will find one ground, one with .5V and one with 1.5V. Connect the 1.5V to the ground and this will give the bike the same information as stock fully closed throttle.

Yamaha FZ-1 TiForce exhaust system Installation Instructions (Slip-on)

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 03-01-2012

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Loosen the clamp where the stock tailpipe connects to the stock collector. 2. Remove the bolt holding the stock muffler assembly to the footpeg/exhaust bracket. 3. Remove the stock tailpipe and exhaust assembly as one piece. 4. Remove the nut securing the right side center stand support bolt. Install the new supplied bracket as shown in (See figure 1) 5. Remove the right rear footpeg assembly complete, bolt the new footpeg mounting bracket in place of the stock one using supplied bolts. 6. Carefully unbolt the footpeg from the bracket (Be careful there are springs and washers that will fall out if you are not careful), bolt the footpeg into the new billet footpeg bracket. Bolt the footpeg bracket to the footpeg- mounting bracket. (See figure 2) 7. Remove the stock exhaust gasket from the stock tailpipe and installthe gasket into the new tailpipe. 8. Slide the supplied clamp over the new tailpipe and slide the new tailpipe onto the stock collector. 9. Slide the TiForce end can into place. Loosely attach the two rubber bands, stainless steel bands K, and stayarm / hanger G to the end can using the supplied 6mm hardware H. See figure 4. 10. Place the bands approximately 150mm from the edge of the end can. See figure 5. 11. Using the stock provided mounting point on the passenger footpeg, and using the stock mounting bolt, mount the end can loosely, allowing for some adjustment. Insert the stock mounting bolt through the stay / hanger G. 12. Attach the supplied springs to connect the tailpipe and muffler assembly. 13. Make sure the exhaust system is free and clear, if necessary jigglethe system to adjust for proper clearance. 14. Carefully align the two stainless bands K so that they are parallel to each other, and spaced properly on the can (figure 5), then tighten the 6mm hardware H and the stock mounting bolt hardware. Make sure thatthe rubber pads fully cover the band(s). USE CAUTION WHEN TIGHTENING THE 6MM HARDWARE AND THE TWO BANDS SO AS NOT TO CRUSH OR DISTORT THE SLEEVE OF THE CAN. 15. Tighten the supplied clamp to secure the new tailpipe to the factory collector. 16. Using some brake and contact cleaner on a clean rag, carefully wipe down the entire exhaust system to remove any residual oils, anti seize, fingerprints and dirt prior to starting the motor. FAILURE TO CLEAN THE TUBING AND CAN MAY RESULT IN PERMANENT STAINING OF THE SYSTEM WHEN HEATED. 17. Check that all hardware is tightened, then start the motor and check for exhaust leaks.

HW Prowler Carburetor Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. Remove both seats and the plastic seat pans under the seats. 2. Remove the engine cover 3. Remove the air-box by removing the cross-bar support that runs under the air-box to the framing on each side by the seat framing and disconnect the air box from the carburetor and from the plastic intake in the rear. 4. Disconnect the engine breather hose from the bottom of the air box 5. Set the air-box to the side 6. Disconnect the plug going to the stock carburetor, this is the electronic choke. Wrap the end left on the vehicle with electrical tape. 7. Cut the fuel line just above the fitting on the passenger side of the carb 8. Remove the side cover off the drivers side of the carb where the throttle cable goes in, see fig. #1 9. Pull the throttle cable out and then remove the throttle cable end from the throttle plate See Fig. #2 10. Loosen the clamp on the rear of the carb holding the carb on 11. Pull the carb out of the intake boot 12. Set OE carb to the side. 13. Push the new Carb into the intake boot making sure the carb is perfectly vertical and then tighten the clamp back up. The new carb is slightly larger than the stock one so some additional pressure will be needed to get it in. 14. Route all the breather lines connected to the carb down under the carb. 15. Connect the throttle cable onto the new carb but putting the cable end in the bottom hole of the throttle plate on the passenger side of the carb allowing the cable to ride in the slot in the plate and then turn the throttle plate clock wise allowing the threaded end of the cable to fit into the lower round hole of the throttle cable connection plate. See Fig. #3 16. Make sure you have a nut on each side of the plate turn the nut on the outside of the plate to take up the slack in the throttle cable then tighten the nut on the inside of the plate. See Fig. #3 17. Push the fuel line onto the fuel inlet on the passenger side of the carb and install the supplied clamp to hold it on. The fuel line will be a little hard to push on. 18. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL THE CHOKE CABLE PARTS SUPPLIED IN THE KIT UNTIL AFTER THE CHOKE CABLE ITSELF IS INSTALLED AND READY TO SCREW INTO THE CARBUETOR. 19. To install the supplied choke cable, drill a 3/8″ hole in the dash on the left side of the steering wheel in a location convenient to your left hand. 20. Remove the plastic nut from the bottom of the choke handle on the choke cable. 21. Push the choke cable thru the hole you drilled and then slide the nut over the cable to the inside of the dash and reinstall back on the back of the choke mechanism. Some dash screws maybe needed to be removed to accomplish this

YAMAHA RAPTOR 350 Removing stock carburetor and cables

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 18-01-2012

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remove seat and gas tank. Make sure fuel petcock is in “off” position. 2. Remove throttle cable paying close attention to routing, as the new cable (s) will need too be routed the same. 3. Remove stock carburetor and stock throttle housing. Stuff a clean, dry rag into manifold to keep debris out of motor. 4. Remove stock air box. 5. Remove choke cable from handlebars. 6. Remove carb vent line from bike. Carburetor installation 1. Carefully trim the rubber alignment tab off of the face of the manifold with a razor blade or side cutters. 2. Remove the hex pipe plug from the carb cap using a 11mm or 7/16 wrench. Do not discard plug, as it will be needed later. Install the metering adjustment tool included in the hardware kit. Do not over-tighten as damage may occur to cap. 3. Attach fuel line to carburetor and secure with clamp. 4. Install remote idle cable into tab on top of carburetor. See main manual for this step. NOTE: Nut must be removed from cable before installation 5. Place carburetor into manifold

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Honda TRX 400EX INSTALLATION And REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 14-12-2011

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Quiet cores are supplied with this kit but not installed. To install the quiet cores remove both rear end caps ((turn downs) and install the quiet cores with the tubes facing inward. Re-install the end caps. REMOVAL Remove seat, disconnect attery and remove. Remove front fenders and side skirts. Remove fuel tank (make sure to shut fuel off and drain remaining fuel in the line before removing). Remove stock muffler first, then remove stock headers. Retain the 4 stock header bolts to install on your new exhaust system. Remove the rear bolt from your stock air box. Loosen stock intake clamp at carburetor. Remove stock boost bottle from the side of the boot. Loosen stock snorkel clamp at the air box, remove stock retaining clip at the front of the snorkel. Remove stock air box, intake boot and snorkel together from the ATV. Slide tarter solenoid off of stock mounting prongs. Remove Phillips screws from fuse holder and remove from plastic housing. Remove plastic battery housing from the ATV. Unplug tail light from harness. Unclip harness from the 2 clips above the battery. CARBURATION Now would be a good time to replace your stock main jet, with the supplied 190 main jet and replace your stock pilot jet with the supplied 48 pilot jet. Make certain that all hoses are tight and routed as stock. Be certain carb clamp is tight when re-installed. INTAKE BOOT Remove the intake boot from the stock air box. Take an exacto knife or razor blade and trim off the rubber piece that the hard plastic snorkel slips into. Trim around the intake boot staying the same distance as the rest of the lip. Take a hax saw and cut the groove as the rest of the boot is, being
careful not to cut all the way through (Picture Fig.2).

YAMAHA Road Star Fuel Pump Relocation Kit INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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1. Remove seat and disconnect battery. Remove fuel tank along with both left and right side battery covers, and remove air box from carburetor (all per Yamaha standard shop manual procedures). 2. Remove chrome plastic cover over fuel pump and disconnect choke cable/knob from lower pump bracket. Remove pump-to-carb fuel line from fuel pump. Disconnect fuel pumps electrical lead connector. 3. Remove two (2) hex-head pump mounting bracket bolts and remove pump assembly from motorcycle. Slide fuel pump up and off bracket mounting posts (Caution: excess fuel may drain from pump and/or fuel lines and fuel filter!). Remove heat shield. Remove remaining fuel line from pump. Pull all fuel lines from filter and remove steel springs and hose clamps from these lines (these will be reused on the kits fuel lines). With a sharp knife or box cutter, trim off the top portion of the fuel pumps rubber isolation/mount system per Photo A. Next cut pumps wiring harness approximately half way between connector and pump. Strip the insulation from the ends of these wires as well as from the supplied Baron harness extension wires. Using the supplied electrical butt connectors, crimp Baron harness extensions red wire to pumps black-w/blue-strip wire, and Baron harness extensions black wire to pumps black wire. Repeat this process on other side of wire harness extension with pumps connector. Now, referring to Photo B, you will need to cut off the square tube that runs along the side of the fuel pump with a hack saw. Cut down toward pump body in a straight cut, then cut tube off by cutting along the body. This will allow you to twist pump in the rubber mount so the curved spigot is facing up (clockwise approx 1/4 turn). 4. Remove pump-to-carb fuel line from carb and separate electrical wires from this line. Remove this fuel line from engine. Re-route choke cable to right side of engine (toward carb) and rotate it up and over rear cylinder head back toward left side of bike. Mount new Baron choke bracket to the choke cable and tighten plastic nut. New choke bracket will mount to rear fuel tank mounting location (Photo C). 5. 99~03 models – Remove electrical relay bracket (found under the right side cover) from the bike and slide each relay off of this bracket. Install fuel pump onto new Baron Fuel Pump Bracket and install bracket in the same location as the stock bracket you just removed, using stock mounting hardware. Refer to Photo F for proper installation. 6. 04~07 models Remove electrical relays from stock bracket and remove relays from rubber holder. Cut rubber holder per Photo E and replace one of the relays into the rubber and install on to new Baron bracket. The second relay will be placed to the right of the tool bag under the seat and secured with the provided two-sided tape pad. Reconnect plugs to the relays. (Photo F)

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YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Motorcycle Enhancements Remote Oil Filter Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Removing Your Old Filter and Beauty Cover In order to install the new Remote Oil Filter Kit, you’ll need to remove the stock Yamaha “beauty cover” and the old filter and filter cover. Remove the engine parts necessary to access the stock filter as outlined in the V-Star owner’s manual. The parts should come off in this order: 1. Muffler assembly 2. Front exhaust pipe 3. Rear brake reservoir cover bolt and brake cover (the reservoir should not be removed, it can remain in place and be moved aside as needed) 4. Right floorboard (this can be simply loosened, by loosening the two bolts underneath) With the above parts removed, you can remove the Allen bolts holding the beauty cover and filter cap from your engine. There are five Allen bolts holding the beauty cover (so named, because most of the cover just covers the chromed side of the engine There are five bolts holding the cover. Ignore the three on the “Yamaha” cap in the middle – these just hold the Yamaha cap to the beauty cover itself. One bolt is hidd – in this picture – just be the Yamaha ca en low p. The bottommost bolt on the beauty cover will likely leak some oil when you remove it – it holds on the inner oil filter cover. Once you remove the beauty cover, you can remove the oil filter cover, and the oil filter Keep these two “O” rings, you’ll need them for the remote kit Old oil filter. Toss it away; you’ll never need one again! Throw away the old filter, and carefully remove the orange and black “O” rings from the filter cover (see picture above). These two “O” rings will go on the new engine cap in the same order as on the old filter cover. “O” ring for bottom bolt. When the beauty cover and filter cover are removed, be sure not to lose the tiny “O” ring that the bottom bolt goes through. Preparing the Remote Oil Filter Kit Remove the orange and black “O” rings from the stock filter cover plate, and place them on the Remote Oil Filter Kit engine cap – black on the inside, orange on the outside – just like on the stock filter cover.

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Yamaha YZF-R1 and R6 TiForce slip on exhaust system REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-01-2012

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1. Remove the fairing lowers. 2. For R1 owners, please remove the existing exhaust system from the EXUP valve rearward (EXUP valve is retained) and set aside. Save the stock exhaust clamp for reuse. For R6 owners, please disconnect the stock S-bend from the rear of the collector and set aside. Save the stock exhaust clamp for reuse (new clamp provided). Save the stock end can mounting bolt for reuse as well. 3. R1 owners only -Inspect the exhaust gasket. Replace if necessary (gasket provided). 4. For R1 owners -Install the S-Bend to the rear of the EXUP valve, make sure the system fits flush. Reuse the stock exhaust clamp to connect the S-bend to the valve. For R6 owners -Install the TiForce S-bend to the rear of the stock head pipes and collector. Make sure the system fits flush and snug. Reuse the stock exhaust clamp or the provided clamp and loosely attach for now. 5. Install the TiForce end can to the S-bend tail pipe. 6. Loosely attach the two rubber bands, stainless steel bands (K), and stay to the end can using the supplied 6mm hardware (H) and the hanger / stay arm (G). See figure 1 for the assembly procedure. 7. R1 owners -Place the bands approximately 180mm from the edge of the end can. See figure 2. R6 owners -Place the bands approximately 195mm from the edge of the end can. See figure 2. 8. R1 owners -Using the stock provided mounting point on the passenger footpeg, use the M10x45mm bolt and hardware to mount the end can loosely, allowing for some adjustment. 9. Carefully align the two stainless bands so that theyare parallel to each other, and spaced properly on the can. Tighten the 6mm hardware (H). Make sure that the rubber pads fully cover the bands (K). USE CAUTION WHEN TIGHTENING THE 6MM HARDWARE AND THE TWO BANDS SO AS NOT TO CRUSH OR DISTORT THE SLEEVE OF THE CAN. 10. Using some brake and contact cleaner on a clean rag, carefully wipe down the entire TiForce exhaust system to remove any residual oils, anti seize, fingerprints and dirt prior to starting the motor. FAILURE TO CLEAN THE TUBING AND CAN MAY RESULT IN PERMANENT STAINING OF THE SYSTEM WHEN HEATED. 11. Attach the supplied springs to secure the end can to the S-bend pipe using a spring installation tool if available. Make sure the exhaust system is free and clear of the bike. If necessary, adjust for proper clearance. 12. Go back and tighten all fasteners. 13. Check that all fasteners are tightened per specifications, then start the motor and check for exhaust leaks. 14. Reinstall the fairing lowers.

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