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HONDA GL18000 DRIVER BOARDS REPLACEMENT RUBBER PADS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove any loose pads, remove any remaining rubber & glue using a blade screwdriver or razor blade. 2. Rough up the chrome surface with sand paper or by scratching with the tip of a screw driver. 3. Clean any remaining glue residue off using acetone solvent or nail polish remover. 4. Clean both the floorboards and the back side of the rubber pad with rubbing alcohol. 5. Using the supplied small brush and tube of 3M weather strip adhesive, apply a thin layer of glue to both the floorboard and the backside of the rubber pad or pads. Allow to dry for 10-15 minutes or until tacky to the touch. Apply a second thin coat to both surfaces and while still wet press the rubber firmly into place and keep pressure applied evenly for 45-60 seconds

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YAMAHA PRO-R AIR CLEANER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 07-01-2012

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STEP 1 Remove the seat, fuel tank, and OEM air cleaner assembly. Disconnect the hoses connected to the air cleaner while leaving them connected to the motorcycle. Save the clamp that secures the air duct to the carburetor and the OEM fasteners used to secure the stock air cleaner assembly to the motorcycle as some will be reused. STEP 2 Remove the carburetor according to the section in your Road Star factory service manual that outlines procedures for carburetor removal, disassembly, reassembly and installation. Now is a good time to proceed with re-jetting the carburetor. We have supplied jets to cover many common configurations. For jet locations and jetting recommendations with various exhaust combinations see Addendum I. Since the OEM screws retaining the float bowl are easily damaged, we have included replacement M4 socket head cap screws to replace them, if necessary. STEP 3 Insert the rubber intake duct into the main support bracket as shown in PIC. 1. The rubber nipple should be pointing toward the longest leg of the bracket. STEP 4 Insert the rubber intake duct into the Pro R-series Hypercharger in the same fashion it was installed in the main support bracket. See PIC.2. You may need to use a screwdriver to help “poke” the flange of the Rubber Intake Boot into position inside the Pro R-series Hypercharger. STEP 5 Line up the three holes in the back plate of the Pro R-series Hypercharger and the three holes in the flange of the rubber intake duct with the three holes in the main support bracket. Insert the three supplied 1/4″-20 x 5/8″ socket head cap screws from inside the Pro R-series Hypercharger and secure on the back side of the main support bracket with the 1/4″-20 thin nylock nuts. You will need to pull back the inner flange of the rubber intake duct to access the holes. Hold the nylock nuts with a 7/16″ wrench as you tighten the socket head cap screws with a 3/16″ hex key. Be careful not to over tighten and cause the rubber intake duct to pucker around the nylock nuts. See PIC.3.

Harley Davidson BoonDocker Nitrous System Installation MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-03-2012

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BoonDocker Liquid Nitrous – 1589 Hollipark Dr. Idaho Falls, ID 83401 – (208) 542-4411 web site: www. boon dockers. com – email: info@boon dockers. com Revised 02-27-04 Page 2 of 10 This manifold is also designed to vary the float bowl pressure in relation to nitrous pressure, thus keeping the nitrous and fuel delivery in sync. Fluctuations in bottle temperature greatly affect nitrous pressure, which affects nitrous delivery. By automatically adjusting the fuel delivery as nitrous pressure varies, this manifold makes nitrous safe, reliable, and easy to use. Be sure to understand and follow the tuning instructions at the end of these instructions. Proper tuning is an important part of any performance-enhancing product. Part I – Bottle Installation A. Bottle Valve Fittings Insert the 4AN x 1/8″ NPT fitting and the 1/8″ NPT Plug into the bottle valve (these are attached to the lid of the box for the bottle) . Use Teflon tape to seal the threads – be sure not to get tape inside the threads! B. Bottle Mounting Position With nitrous in the bottle, both nitrous liquid and nitrous gas are present under high pressure (760 psi at 70 deg F) . Due to gravity and acceleration forces, the liquid portion of the nitrous will be at the bottom and rearward parts of the bottle. For this nitrous system to work properly, it is important that nitrous liquid be drawn from the bottle. Nitrous vapor will cause a significant decrease in performance. For best results, the bottle should be mounted so the valve is pointed down and towards the back of the vehicle as shown below. ************** *************** ******** ********* *************** (can be installed on top or bottom of air boot) ********** ********* push-button switch (mounts on handlebar) +12 V *********** ************ **** ****** *! “**#$******%* *! “**#$*#*%* 20 deg to 90 Front of motorcycle Rear of motorcycle BoonDocker Liquid Nitrous – 1589 Hollipark Dr. Idaho Falls, ID 83401 – (208) 542-4411 web site: www. boon dockers. com – email: info@boon dockers. com Revised 02-27-04 Page 3 of 10 Bottle mounted inside airbox: For some applications, a small bottle can be mounted inside the airbox as shown. Note: because of the restricted space, it was necessary to mount this bottle at a non-optimal angle (the valve is pointed towards the front instead of the rear)

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Victory Motorcycles Lloydz Motorworkz Billet Air Cleaner Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1 – Disconnect the negative battery cable from the motorcycle and route it away from any metal parts in the area. 2 – Remove the seat and gas tank from the Victory® motorcycle following your Victory service manual for the specific model you are performing the work on. Key switch Cover and Coil Mounting Bracket Removal 1 – Remove the ignition key switch cover by pulling outward on it. picture 2 below illustrates the key switch cover. 2 – Remove the four socket head cap screws from the ignition and coil mounting bracket that holds the bracket to the front and rear heads. picture 3 below points out the location of the four socket head cap screws. 3 – With the bracket free from the front and rear head unplug the spark plug wires at the coil. 4 – Disconnect the coil and ignition switch at the connectors freeing them from the primary wiring harness. Idle Air Control Hoses and throttle position s ensor Removal 1 – Disconnect the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) at the connector leaving the TPS attached to the throttle body. picture 4 next page points out the TPS connector. 2 – Remove the Idle Air Control (IAC) supply hose from the air box. Note: Leave the 1.500″ rubber hose attached to the hard plastic IAC supply hose. Picture 4 points out the IAC air supply hose and the 1.500″ rubber hose. 3 – Remove the front Idle Air Control (IAC) air delivery hose from the rubber 90° fitting that leads into the front intake bore on the throttle body. Leave the 90° rubber fitting attached to the throttle body. picture 4 points out the IAC front delivery hose. 4 – Remove the rear IAC air delivery hose from the rubber “T” fitting that leads into the rear intake bore on the throttle body. Leave the rubber “T” fitting attached to the throttle body. picture 4 points out the IAC rear delivery hose

Installation Instructions S&S Billet Air Cleaner Kit for Victory Motorcycles

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Filed Under (S&S) by admin on 29-10-2010

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1 – Disconnect the negative battery cable from the motorcycle and route it away from any metal parts in the area. 2 – Remove the seat and gas tank from the Victory motorcycle following your Victory service manual for the specifi c model you are performing the work on. Picture 1 WARNING 3 Key Switch Cover and Coil Mounting Bracket Removal 1 – Remove the ignition key switch cover by pulling outward on it. Picture 2 illustrates the key switch cover. 2 – Remove the four socket head cap screws from the ignition and coil mounting bracket that holds the bracket to the front and rear heads. Picture 3 points out the location of the four socket head cap screws. 3 – With the bracket free from the front and rear head unplug the spark plug wires at the coil. 4 – Disconnect the coil and ignition switch at the connectors freeing them from the primary wiring harness. Idle Air Control Hoses and Throttle Position Sensor Removal 1 – Disconnect the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) at the connector leaving the TPS attached to the throttle body. Picture 4 points out the TPS connector. 2 – Remove the Idle Air Control (IAC) supply hose from the air box. Note: Leave the 1.500″ rubber hose attached to the hard plastic IAC supply hose. Picture 4 points out the IAC air supply hose and the 1.500″ rubber hose. 3 – Remove the front Idle Air Control (IAC) air delivery hose from the rubber 90° fitting that leads into the front intake bore on the throttle body. Leave the 90° rubber fitting attached to the throttle body. Picture 4 points out the IAC front delivery hose. 4 – Remove the rear IAC air delivery hose from the rubber “T” fitting that leads into the rear intake bore on the throttle body. Leave the rubber “T” fitting attached to the throttle body. Picture 4 points out the IAC rear delivery hose

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HARLEY DAVIDSON ENGINE-GUARD MOUNTED FOOTPEGS (CHROME WITH RUBBER INSERT) INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 16-04-2011

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Installation Footpegs must be positioned so rider can operate all foot controls throughout their range of motion without interference. Failure to have full, unlimited access to foot controls could cause loss of control, which could result in death or serious injury. 1. See Figure 1. Remove the bolt (6) and lockwasher (5) from the footpeg assembly (1). NOTE When installing the footpegs on a 1 inch (25 mm) diameter engine guard, use both clamps. . For 1 inch (25 mm) dia. engine guards: Place both the large clamp (2) andthe small clamp (1) around the engine guard as shown. Position the clamps on the straight, upright section of the guard. For 1-1/4 inch (32 mm) dia. engine guards: Discard the small clamp (1). Place the large clamp (2) around the engine guard. Position the clamp on the straight, upright section of the guard. 2. For ALL engine guards: Install two step spacers (4) inside the clamp on either side of the engine guard as shown. 3. Put the lockwasher (5) on the bolt (6). Insert the bolt through the clamp and spacers, and thread into the footpeg assembly as shown. Mount the footpegs so they will not strike the ground during cornering. Footpegs striking the ground during cornering could result in death or serious injury. 4. Position the footpeg for rider comfort, and rotate the footpeg assembly so it folds upward and to the rear. Tighten bolt (6) to 30 ft-lbs (41 Nm) so the footpeg does not rotate on the bar. 5. Repeat Steps 1 through 4 for the right side

HARLEY DAVIDSON TOURING CHROME PASSENGER FOOTBOARD PAN KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 13-04-2011

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Installation 1. See Service Parts illustration. Remove socket head cap- screw (2) from footboard support (3). Place support on a clean flat surface. 2. From bottom of footboard (1), use a small flat blade screwdriver to push rubber beads on pad (5) up through holes in footboard. Remove pad from footboard. 3. Using a brass drift and rubber mallet, tap two retaining pins (4) toward center of footboard and remove. 4. Remove footboard from support bracket taking care to remove and retain detent ball (6) and spring (7) from footboard support (3). 5. Insert spring (7) and detent spring (6) into footboard support (3). 6. Place new chrome footboard pan in position with footboard support and insert retaining pins using a brass drift and rubber mallet. 7. Moisten rubber beads on pad with soapy water. Place pad into position on footboard. From bottom of footboard, use needle nose pliers to pull rubber beads down through holes in footboard. 8. Engage nubs on inboard corners of pad with holes in foot- board. 9. Install socket head cap screw into footboard support and tighten 120 in-lbs (13.6 Nm). 10. Repeat procedure for other passenger footboard

HARLEY DAVIDSON NOSTALGIC BRAKE PEDAL PAD INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 04-04-2011

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This kit is designed for use on the following model motorcycles: 1980 and later FLHT, FLT, FLHR, FLHS 1986 and later FLSTC, FLSTN, FLSTF, FLSTS. Each kit contains: QTY DESCRIPTION PART NO. 1 Brake pedal cover 44249-96 1 Rubber tread 44251-96 1 Bolt (with rubber H-D logo) 44229-95 1 Washer, 7/8 in. OD 6422 1 Washer, 5/8 in. OD 6316HW 1 Offset washer 6421 1 Acorn nut 7946 All Service Parts are listed above. Installation 1. Remove previously installed brake pedal cover from motorcycle. 2. Align and place brake pedal cover over rubber tread. 3. Insert bolt, with rubber logo properly aligned, into hole in combined new brake pedal cover and rubber tread. 4. Place 5/8 in. OD flat washer onto bolt first, followed by 7/8 in. OD washer. 5. Place new brake pedal cover and bolt/washer assembly on brake pedal. 6. Place offset washer on bolt. 7. Adjust and hold offset washer in position covering exposed slot under brake pedal and attach acorn nut to bolt. Tighten acorn nut to 25-29 ft-lbs

YAMAHA Road Star Fuel Pump Relocation Kit INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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1. Remove seat and disconnect battery. Remove fuel tank along with both left and right side battery covers, and remove air box from carburetor (all per Yamaha standard shop manual procedures). 2. Remove chrome plastic cover over fuel pump and disconnect choke cable/knob from lower pump bracket. Remove pump-to-carb fuel line from fuel pump. Disconnect fuel pumps electrical lead connector. 3. Remove two (2) hex-head pump mounting bracket bolts and remove pump assembly from motorcycle. Slide fuel pump up and off bracket mounting posts (Caution: excess fuel may drain from pump and/or fuel lines and fuel filter!). Remove heat shield. Remove remaining fuel line from pump. Pull all fuel lines from filter and remove steel springs and hose clamps from these lines (these will be reused on the kits fuel lines). With a sharp knife or box cutter, trim off the top portion of the fuel pumps rubber isolation/mount system per Photo A. Next cut pumps wiring harness approximately half way between connector and pump. Strip the insulation from the ends of these wires as well as from the supplied Baron harness extension wires. Using the supplied electrical butt connectors, crimp Baron harness extensions red wire to pumps black-w/blue-strip wire, and Baron harness extensions black wire to pumps black wire. Repeat this process on other side of wire harness extension with pumps connector. Now, referring to Photo B, you will need to cut off the square tube that runs along the side of the fuel pump with a hack saw. Cut down toward pump body in a straight cut, then cut tube off by cutting along the body. This will allow you to twist pump in the rubber mount so the curved spigot is facing up (clockwise approx 1/4 turn). 4. Remove pump-to-carb fuel line from carb and separate electrical wires from this line. Remove this fuel line from engine. Re-route choke cable to right side of engine (toward carb) and rotate it up and over rear cylinder head back toward left side of bike. Mount new Baron choke bracket to the choke cable and tighten plastic nut. New choke bracket will mount to rear fuel tank mounting location (Photo C). 5. 99~03 models – Remove electrical relay bracket (found under the right side cover) from the bike and slide each relay off of this bracket. Install fuel pump onto new Baron Fuel Pump Bracket and install bracket in the same location as the stock bracket you just removed, using stock mounting hardware. Refer to Photo F for proper installation. 6. 04~07 models Remove electrical relays from stock bracket and remove relays from rubber holder. Cut rubber holder per Photo E and replace one of the relays into the rubber and install on to new Baron bracket. The second relay will be placed to the right of the tool bag under the seat and secured with the provided two-sided tape pad. Reconnect plugs to the relays. (Photo F)

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2009 Kawasaki Voyager Heated Grips Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Remove the Factory Grips Before removing the factory grips, the”chromed plastic”grip end caps need to be removed. The chromed plastic ends are threaded on, but have”left hand”threads, which means to unscrew you need to turn them clockwise. (The opposite way that you would normally unscrew something) To do that I recommend using, either a rubber strap wrench, ora sheet of thin rubber used as you would to loosen the lid of ajar. Once Ihadtheend caps off, I used a sharp utility knife to cut through, and peel off the factory rubber grips. (They are only about 1/8″thicksoit’seasytodo.) With the rubber grips off, I removed the chromed ring that is adjacent to the left switch housing. The left ring will come off, witha gentle pull, but the throttle side ring will need to be cutoff, as it’s pressed on. It’seasytodo; I cut it off using wire side cutters (see picture on page 3 below). 2 Factory left and right Grips After removing the chromed end cap, and the factory rubber grips. The chromed plastic ring next to the switch housing needs to be cut off. Note all the ridges on the sleeve, all these except one ridge need to be filed off. 1. Prepare left handlebar for grip installation The left handlebar is pretty easy to prepare, first I cleaned any glue from the bar, and then gently test fit the left grip, be very careful here as it needs to slide on easily. Asper the instructions, ” Do not force the grip on with anything greater than gentle hand force “. Remember after the test fit you need to take it off again. (You could also crack the heated grip if it’stootight). If you find it too tight, as I did sand the bar using sandpaper until it slides on and off easily. On my bike I used an 80 grit sandpaper, and it took approx 20 minutes to geta good fit

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