94 harley softail clutch diagram

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HARLEY DAVIDSON DIAMONDBACK "LE" CHROME SERIES CLUTCH CABLE KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 11-02-2011

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CLUTCH CABLE REMOVAL To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect battery cables (negative (-) cable first) before proceeding. (00307a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Disconnect the battery or main fuse following the instructions in the appropriate Service manual. 2. When performing cable disassembly procedures, make careful notes as to the existing cable routing and existing cable strap locations. New straps can be installed in the same locations. 3. Remove the clutch cable following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 4. If installing different handlebars, install them now (refer to the appropriate handlebar instruction sheet) and measure the change in distance that will be required from the end of the cable housing to the clutch lever. Install proper length clutch cables. Incorrect cable length can adversely affect motorcycle operation, which could cause loss of control resulting in death or serious injury. (00448b) 5. Compare the additional required length to the cable provided in your kit. If the cable is more than two inches (50.8 mm) longer or more than one inch (25.4 mm) shorter than the above measured distance, see a Harley-Davidson dealer for the correct cable length. CLUTCH CABLE INSTALLATION Sportster and Softail Models Do not over-tighten clutch cable threaded end fitting. Use recommended torque values. Damage to threaded fitting can lead to loss of transmission fluid, which could result in loss of control and death or serious injury. (00449c) -J04568
NOTE Damage to the clutch cable threaded end fitting due to improper handling/installation is not covered under the Harley-Davidson Motor Company Warranty. 1. See Figure 11. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil on the new O-ring (2) before installing the O-ring onto the threaded portion of the clutch cable end. 2. Install the clutch cable following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual EXCEPT: Tighten clutch cable fitting to clutch release cover to 36-60 in-lbs (4-7 Nm) . Replace anchor pin with anchor pin supplied in this kit, see Figure 11, item (1 or 7). 3. After installation, follow the instructions in the “Final Assembly” and “Clutch Cable Adjustment” sections in this instruction sheet. FLTR Models with Fairing Lowers 1. See Figure 1. Carefully twist the clutch cable around the coiled opening in the clutch cable guide (2) with the eyelet toward the left handlebar. 2. Route the clutch cable assembly down from the clutch cable clamp while crossing to the right side of the vehicle. Run the cable between the inboard side of the right frame downtube and the outboard side of the voltage regulator. 3. The clutch cable clamp, mounted on the engine guard, has two fingers, an upper and a lower. Feed the cable assembly under one finger and over the other. 4. Finish the installation of the clutch cable following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual EXCEPT: Tighten clutch cable fitting to clutch release cover to 36-60 in-lbs (4-7 Nm) . Replace anchor pin with anchor pin supplied in this kit, see Figure 11, item (1 or 7). NOTE See Figure 2. Adjust the clutch cable clamp to 2.25 ± 0.25 in. (57.15 ± 6.35 mm) as measured from the inside lower left fairing mount to the clutch cable clamp. 5. After installation, follow the instructions in the “Final Assembly” and “Clutch Cable Adjustment” sections in this instruction sheet.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON STAINLESS STEEL BRAIDED CLUTCH CABLE KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-03-2011

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REMOVE CLUTCH CABLE 1. See Figure 1. Loosen clutch adjuster to obtain slack in the clutch cable (2) by performing the following: a. Locate cable adjuster (1) and slide off rubber boot (4). b. While holding cable adjuster with 1/2-inch wrench, loosen jam nut (3) using a 9/16-inch wrench. c. Turn cable adjuster until there is a large amount of free play at hand lever. 1 2 3 4 is 00889 1. Cable adjuster (1/2-inch) 2. Cable end 3. Jam nut (9/16-inch) 4. Rubber boot Figure 1. Clutch Cable Adjuster 2. See Figure 2. Remove the retaining ring (1), pivot pin (2) and clutch cable anchor pin (3) from the hand lever. 2 3 1 is 00891 1. Retaining ring 2. Pivot pin 3. Clutch cable anchor pin Figure 2. Clutch Cable Compoments 3. See Figure 3. Drain transmission lubricant and remove fill plug dipstick. Remove the six screws that hold the clutch release cover in place. Remove the clutch release cover, being careful not to damage the gasket. NOTE The clutch release cover gasket (P/N 36801-87B) will need to be replaced if torn or damaged to prevent transmission fluid from leaking from the release cover. 4 3 5 2 6 1 is 00894 Figure 3. Clutch Release Cover Screw Sequence 4. See Figure 4. Note position of retaining ring opening. Retaining ring opening must be positioned in approximately the same location during reassembly. Remove retaining ring (1). 5 4 1 3 2 is 00895 1. Retaining ring 2. Inner ramp 3. Cable fitting 4. Clutch cable 5. Ramp coupling Figure 4. Clutch Cable Connection 5. Pull inner ramp (2) and coupling (5) out of side cover. Hold inner and outer ramps together to keep balls from falling free. 6. Rotate the inner ramp to a position that will allow the coupling (5) to be disconnected from the inner ramp lever arm. Disconnect coupling from inner ramp. Disconnect cable end from coupling. 7. Back out threaded cable fitting from side cover. Ensure that o-ring is removed with cable. Discard o-ring. INSTALL CLUTCH CABLE 1. See Figure 4. Obtain braided stainless steel clutch cable from kit. Apply a light coat of oil on new o-ring and install o-ring (Part Number 11179) onto threaded portion of clutch cable (4). Insert clutch cable fitting (3) into clutch release cover. Do not tighten cable fitting at this time. 2. Connect cable end to coupling. Rotate ramps for best access and install coupling on inner ramp. Place ramp assembly in position in side cover. 3. Install retaining ring. Position retaining ring opening so it is located approximately over the outer ramp tang (the stop that prevents rotation). NOTE Replace clutch release cover gasket if torn or damaged. 4. See Figure 3. Place gasket, if removed, on side cover and install side cover. Tighten the six screws in the order shown to 84-108 in-lbs (10-12 Nm) . 5. Tighten the clutch cable fitting to 36-60 in-lbs (4-7 Nm) . 6. Place a few drops of oil inside cable housing. 7. Route clutch cable as follows: SOFTAIL MODELS FXSTD, FLSTS, FXSTS and FXST – Route clutch cable from the clutch release cover, across the frame, up along the front frame downtubes and across the front of the handlebars. Cable straps (item 1 in service parts illustration) to be used in same location as original equipment straps. FLSTF and FLSTC – Route clutch cable from the clutch release cover, across the frame and up along the front frame down- tubes, up to and behind the handlebars. Cable straps (item 1 in service parts illustration) to be used in same location as original equipment straps. DYNA MODELS FXDWG – Route clutch cable from the clutch release cover, under frame and across to the left side. See Figure 5. Insert cable (1) into clip (2) at the bottom left side of the frame

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2008 Honda CBR1000RR Clutch Inner Installation PROCEDURE

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 23-04-2011

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Refer to the 2008 CBR1000RR Service Manual for specific removal instructions. While completing this procedure, be careful not to damage the covers, cowls, or any other components. 1. Remove the air intake cover (page 3-8). 2. Remove the upper inner cover (page 3-9). 3. Remove the lower cowl (page 3-9). 4. Remove the right middle cowl (page 3-10). 5. Remove the right crankcase cover (page 10-5). Clutch Removal (page 10-7) 6. Remove the starter idle gear and shaft. 7. Remove the snap ring and stopper ring. 8. Remove the clutch lifter piece and plate. 9. Unstake the clutch center lock nut. Be careful not to damage the mainshaft threads. 10. Hold the pressure plate with the special tool. You must use the special tool (Clutch Holder, T/N 070MB-MFLA100) when removing the lock nut. Using an impact wrench will damage the main shaft threads. Clutch Holder: 070MB-MFLA100 (autoshipped in May 2008) 11. Remove the clutch center lock nut and washer and discard the lock nut as shown on top of page 3 12. Remove the clutch spring holder, spring seat, and two clutch springs. 13. Remove the spring seat. 14. Remove the following: • Pressure plate
• Spring seat • Judder spring • Clutch disc A • Clutch plate A • Seven clutch discs B • Clutch disc C  Clutch center NOTE: Do not remove the clutch outer. New Clutch Installation (page 10-20) NOTE: The new clutch disc assembly has a dif- ferent order of plates than the illustration shown in the Service Manual. Keep note of this when repairing updated units.
15. Install the new clutch disc assembly with- out removing the setting bolts. Rotate the main shaft to align the clutch disc assem- bly with the main shaft spline. 16. Slightly loosen the setting bolts. 17. Rotate clutch disc C to align its tabs into clutch outer shallow slots, then fully install the clutch disc assembly. 18. Remove and discard the setting bolts. 19. Install the spring seat

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KAWASAKI CLUTCH KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove the key from the ignition switch. Loosen the vent hose on the cover. Remove the clutch cover bolts (10mm socket) and take the clutch cover off. You will need to unplug the wires from the electric actuator and small sensor in the center of the clutch cover to totally remove the cover. To unplug the wires from the sensors, follow the wires to the connections under the plastic side panel and unplug at that location. 2. Remove the primary clutch bolt (19mm socket). This is a left threaded bolt. Insert clutch puller by hand (right hand threads) and tighten until clutch pops off the shaft. This tool is available from EPI, part number PCP-10. Loosen the secondary clutch nut (27mm socket) and remove both clutches at the same time. When you slide the secondary clutch of the machine there are four metal roller pins inside the center shaft of the secondary clutch. These will normally stay in place but if one does fall out refer to assembly instructions in step #6. 3. Disassemble the primary clutch by removing the eight bolts on the cover plate (10mm socket) and remove the spring. Remove one nut (10mm) on the bolt that holds the weight in place, slide the pin out of the clutch and remove the weight. Install EPI weight making sure the tip of the weight is resting on the inside ledge of the clutch. Slide bolt through the holes in the clutch and the weight and install the nut. Repeat this step for the other three weights. NOTE: If your kit has two different gram weights, for example two 54 and two 56 weights, be sure to place them directly across from each other (or every other one). This keeps the clutch in balance . 4. Install the EPI spring and bolt the clutch cover back on using a criss-cross pattern to tighten down the cover. There is a mark on the cover plate and the spider usually in the form of a dot or arrow in the casting. These are alignment marks and must line up when the clutch is assembled. 5. EPI recommends cleaning your clutches when you have them off your machine. Use a clean rag or towel with contact or brake cleaner that does not leave any oily film. Clean all parts of the clutch except for the clutch bushings. Solvent can damage your bushings; just use a dry rag to clean them

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CLUTCH CABLE ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 05-03-2011

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36753-87A This kit fits 1987 and later FXLR model motorcycles. 36755-87A This kit fits 1987 and later FXRS/SP model motorcycles. 38601-89 This kit fits 1988 and later FLTC, FLTC-Ultra, FLHS, FLHTC FLHTC-Ultra and FLHTP model motorcycles. 38606-87A This kit fits 1987 and later FXR, FXRS and FXRT model motorcycles. 38607-87A This kit fits 1987 and later FLST, FXST, FXSTC, FXRP, FLTC, FLHT, FLHTP and FLHTC model motorcycles. 38617-95 This kit fits 1995 and later FXSTSB model motorcycles. 38647-98 This kit fits 1998 and 1999 FXSTB model motorcycles. 38661-00 This kit fits2000 and later FXDL, FXDS-CONV and FXDWG model motorcycles. 38664-00 This kit fits2000 and later FXSTD model motorcycles. 38665-00 This kit fits2000 and later FXSTB model motorcycles. 38666-00 This kit fits2000 and later FXSTS, FLSTS, FLSTC, FLSTF, FXDX, FXD and FXST model motorcycles. 38667-00 This kit fits 2000 and later FLTR, FLTRI, FLHT, FLHTC, FLHTCI, FLHTCUI, FLHR, FLHRI, FLHRCI and FLHP model motorcycles. 38672-01 This kit fits 2001 and later FXDWG2 model motorcycles. Kit Contents: QTY DESCRIPTION 1 O-ring, rubber 1 Cable, clutch 1 Pin, cable pivot 1 Grommet (Kit no. 38607-87A, 38660-00A and 38667-00 only) Installation NOTE A Service Manual for your motorcycle is available from your Harley-Davidson dealer. A SERVICE MANUAL IS NEEDED TO INSTALL THIS KIT. The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have your Harley-Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. 1. Refer to the Service Manual for your motorcycle model. Screw the cable adjuster all the way in to allow for maximum cable free play. 2. Remove clutch hand lever from hand-lever bracket at pivot pin. Remove original clutch cable from hand lever and transmission. Retain anchor pin bushings. 3. See Figure 1. Install lever end of new clutch cable. Position cable eyelet in clutch lever slot. Retain with new cable pivot pin through original bushings. NOTE See Figure 2. When routing cable on models where clutch cable passes through inner fairing (FLHTC, FLHTC-U and FLHTP with fairing), clutch cable eyelet may be too large to pass through clutch cable access hole in fairing. If this is the case, use the template supplied with this sheet to file out a hole to accommodate the new eyelet. Place the grommet included with kit no. 38607-87A, 38660-00A, and 38667-00 in the hole after filing. 4. Secure the clutch lever in the lever bracket with the lever pivot pin and retaining ring. 5. Follow steps outlined in the applicable Service Manual and install the transmission-end of the new cable with O- ring. 6. Adjust clutch cable according to procedure in Service Manual.

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REKLUSE MOTOR SPORTS Pro Start Clutch Harley-Davidson OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-11-2010

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REAK-IN PERIOD The ProStart clutch requires a short break-in period. During the break-in period, the ProStart should not be operated at steady engine speeds above 3000 RPMs for more than 10 minutes. Breaking-in the ProStart clutch equires start and stop cycles. Riding the ProStart clutch in stop-and-go city traffic for one hour will provide sufficient break-in. If you would like to accelerate the break-in period, find an empty parking lot with ample room and no other traffic. From a stop, bring the motorcycle to 20 miles per hour and then back to a stop. Repeat this process at least 20 times. MAINTENANCE Proper maintenance is important to ensure the longevity of the Rekluse ProStart clutch and the rest of the stock clutch components in your Harley- Davidson Motorcycle. Refer to your owner’s manual for proper primary chaincase oil levels and oil type. Rekluse recommends the use of Harley- Davidson Primary Chaincase lubricant with the Rekluse ProStart clutch. Do not use oils designed for use as automotive engine oil in your Primary Chaincase. If Harley-Davidson Primary Chaincase lubricant is not readily available, a premium-quality Diesel engine oil, such as Shell Rotella T, that does not contain friction modifiers may be substituted. Inspection and adjustment of the Rekluse ProStart clutch should only be performed by a service center trained in Harley-Davidson and Rekluse ProStart repair and maintenance. The Rekluse ProStart clutch should be inspected for adjustment after 1,000 miles of operation. Thereafter, inspection for adjustment should be performed at 5,000 mile intervals

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Harley Davidson Five Speed Transmissions Hydraulic Clutch Modification

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Hydraulic Clutch Modification for Harley Davidson With Champion Reverse Gear 1 1.1 Install Reverse Gear Assembly to gearbox. 1.2 Remove clutch cover (left side). 1.3 Remove Release Plate (clutch adjustment) and Push Rods. 1.4 Install Hydraulic Clutch Release Cover with supplied spacer and two gaskets. 1.5 Bleed clutch system. NOTE: When bleeding clutch system, lever feel will become hard, do not force lever because piston is at end of travel.(Continue Bleeding) 2 2.1 Install Push Rod. 2.2 Push the rod into clutch assembly to force hydraulic piston to its start position. Push the rod hard until the clutch cylinder is fully compressed. This is the start position. 2.3 Install Hydraulic Clutch Throw-Out Bearing Holder and bearing to push rod. Do not install circlip at this time. 2.4 If the throw-out bearing holder does not fully seat into the Pressure Plate (Figure 2.4), proceed to step 2.5. If shaft is too short then use throw-out bearing holder from Champion Reverse Gear Kit, skip next step and proceed to 3.0 2.5 Measure distance between bearing holder and pressure plate (ensure that push rod is pushed in) Figure 2.4 2.6 Remove bearing holder and push rod, reinstall bearing holder until seated (without push rod). Measure distance from pressure plate to bearing holder. Figure 2.6 2.7 Add measurements taken in steps 2.5 and 2.6 2.8 Add 0.090″ to total of step 2.7 (allowance for clutch plate wear). Measurement should be approximately 1/8″. 2.9 Measure push rod length. 2.10 Subtract measurement of step 2.8 from measurement of step 2.9 (push rod length). This measurement represents the amount of material to be removed from ball end of push rod. (Step 2.11)

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Harley-Davidson Softail Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-12-2010

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1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the fasteners that secure the seat. Remove seat. 6. Disconnect negative Battery Terminal. 7. Remove the Saddle Bags. And their hardware. If equipped. 8. Loosen Muffler Clamp on both Mufflers and other attaching hardware. Remove and discard both Mufflers. 9. Loosen the 4 exhaust stud nuts and save. Remove and discard head pipes and exhaust gaskets. 10. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness. 11. Remove any fasteners from Electrical Box. 12. Remove and discard Rear Fender, Fender Support and fasteners. NOTE: 2008-Current various models. Remove ECM from Fender and save nuts. 13. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 14. Un-clamp Rear Brake Line from the frame and Rear Fork. 15. Remove and discard both Banjo Bolts and Crush Washers from the Rear Brake Caliper and the Rear Brake Master Cylinder. 16. Remove Brake Light Switch from the Brake line, Save for reassembly. 17. Remove the Torx screw from the Brake Line bracket, Save the Torx screw for reassembly. 18. Remove and Discard Brake Line. 19. If Lower Controls option. Remove and Discard right and left floorboards/foot pegs, brake pedal, shifter, and shift linkage. Remove and Discard Passenger Foot pegs or Floorboards and their mounts. Then skip to step 24. 20. If Lower Controls Not purchased. Continue. 21. Remove acorn nut from Shift Linkage. 22. Remove 3 fasteners from Drivers Floorboard and remove. 23. Remove and discard Jiffy Stand. 24. Remove the Primary Cover by first removing the top and rear inspection cover screws. 25. Continue by removing remaining fasteners. 14 total. 26. Remove and discard Primary Cover Gasket. 27. Clean residual gasket material from both surfaces. 28. Loosen the Top Center Nut on the Primary Chain Adjuster. Lower the Primary Chain Adjuster until it rests flat on the Inner Primary Cover. 29. Remove the Clutch Lifter Retaining Ring from the Clutch Basket. Remove Clutch Lifter Assembly. 30. Using the Primary Drive Locking Tool. Loosen the Compensating Sprocket Nut. 31. Using the Primary Drive Locking Tool. Loosen the Clutch Hub Main shaft Nut. WARNING: This nut is LEFT HAND threaded. 32. Remove the Primary Drive Locking Tool, Compensating Sprocket Nut, and Clutch Hub Main shaft Nut. 33. Remove the Sprocket cover and Sliding Cam from the Crank Shaft Extension. 34. Remove the Clutch Assembly, Primary Chain, Compensating Sprocket, and Crank Shaft Extension in one assembly.

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DUCATI EVOLUZIONE SLIPPER CLUTCH KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 25-10-2010

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If installing with Ducati OEM basket you need the washer cod. 0D1SR140C220045 (3mm). – If installing with STM basket (Z12 o Z48) you need the washer cod. 001MG019 (1,5mm). – Insert the correct washer on the gear shaft. – Perform the initial hub group assembly: position the progressive engagement steel plate (003MG015) on the hub (0F3SR140J24001C) , with the step facing up. Be careful to position it correctly into the specific seats, then check that pushing one side, the opposite stand up simultaneously. – Now put the 6 steel balls (001MG025) at the bottom of the grooves using a little bit of grease. Then fix the clutch drum (0F3SR140J24002C) on the clutch hub (0F3SR140J24001C) at rest position, using an M6 screw to help locking the two parts, avoiding in this way any possibility for the steel balls (001MG025) to fall out while inserting the hub pack on the main shaft. – Insert the hub pack on the gear shaft – Insert the clutch discs starting with the sintered one and finishing with the steel guided one; total disc set thickness must be included between 36 and 36,5mm. – Remove the M6 screw from the hub (0F3SR140J24001C). – Put the drum stopper hub (003MG106) on the hub (0F3SR140J24001C). – Verify that the secondary spring support (0F3SR540B140016) is well inserted into its housing on the drum (0F3SR140J24002C). – Insert the secondary spring (0S2085) into its housing on the drum (0F3SR140J24002C). – Mount the pressure plate (003MGP10) on the drum (0F3SR140J24002C) . – Position the Evoluzione spring (0S1090) on the pressure plate (003MGP10), with the convex part facing up (STM logo facing up), making sure previously that the squared section ring (901SE003), which works as primary spring support, is well positioned into the pressure plate itself. – Assemble the complete spring stopper pack: starting from the spring stopper plate (003MG008), with the shaped side facing up as shown in the picture. Insert the ball bearing (003MG007) and finally the spring stopper hub (0F3SR140N220007). Once completed these operations, position the complete spring stopper pack inside the Evoluzione spring (0S1090). – Insert the toothed washer (901RD101) with the convex side facing up, then insert and tighten up the clutch nut (0F30S140C220013); use a dynamometric wrench setting the torque suggested by the bike manufacturer. We suggest to use the specific optional tool (UTL-0020) in order to lock the pressure plate (003MGP10) while performing this operation. – Assemble the complete bearing rest pack: insert the washer (001MG018) in its housing on the bearing rest (0F3SR140N220004). Then put in the same housing the ball bearing and the push rod pin of the original clutch. – Position the complete bearing rest pack in the pressure plate (003MGP10), making sure it fits correctly into the housing grooves. – Manually practise a little pressure on the bearing rest (0F3SR140N220004) in order to release the seat for the tightness circlip (003MG018). – Fit correctly the above mentioned tightness circlip (003MG018). MAKE SURE that it adheres to all the groove perimeter. NB: Once completed the installation, repeatedly operate the clutch lever, checking that the pressure plate performs correctly the opening and closing movements. For a road use of the clutch you have to check clutch plates set every 2000 km. Please verify that the clutch plates set thickness is between 36,5mm and 35,0mm. If it is inferior to 35,0mm please replace a 1,5 steel plate with a 2 mm steel plate. For a racing use of the clutch we suggest to check the clutch plates set thickness frequently. GENERAL SAFETY REGULATIONS – In this sheet are reported the directions to perform correctly the clutch assembly operations. – STM reserves the right – without notice – to introduce any technical change whenever deemed it to be necessary to improve functionality and quality of the products. – Assembly operations must be performed by a skilled technician and must be scrupulously observed. – Before mounting the clutch make a complete inspection of the various parts, in order to verify the possible presence of faults or anomalies on the motorbike. – Make sure that there are no missing/damaged parts in the package . – Some parts of the clutch and its components can have sharp surface: handle with care. – Some components of the clutch, because of their small dimensions can be swallowed: keep away from children. STRADA srl Via Campo Archero 20 10023 Chieri ( TO ) Tel +39 011 9422832 Fax +39 011 9471447 003 MG 018 Tightness circlip

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Kawasaki KLR 650 Hydraulic Clutch Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Now, the clutch safety interlock switch. The picture above shows the safety switch contacts. Once you removed the 2 screws holding it to the stock lever, you will need to cut the copper plate on the switch. There are 3 wires: Green, Black with yellow and Blue. You do not use the green wire. You will need to attach the supplied terminals to the remaining wires and slip the supplied rubber boot over them as you attach them to the hydraulic clutch lever. In the photos, the boot is installed and also removed, and with my finger, I am pointing to its location. I did not bother to install the clutch interlock switch and removed the wiring harness completely, but unplugging it from the connector behind the instrument panel. Next, you must remove the clutch cable from the lever in order to pass the cable under the steering head he picture above shows the attachment at the clutch actuator Once the clutch cable is removed from the lever, remove the bolt holding it at on the engine case and disconnect the clutch cable from the pivot. The easiest way to do this is to pull out the clutch pivot assembly and the long “spike” out of the clutch plate hole. (It only goes back in one way, so you can’t mess it up.) he picture above shows that the routing is the same as the original clutch cable. With the hydraulic clutch assembly, pass the stainless steel braided line to the clutch “pivot” point at the engine casing. Attach the clutch cable to the “pivot” while it is removed from the engine, then insert the “spike” into the clutch plates hole (it can only go in one way).

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