94 suzuki intruder 1400 timing marks

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SUZUKI 1400/ 800 INTRUDER TURN SIGNAL RELOCATION INSTALLATION AND CLEANING INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 09-11-2010

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1. Refer to Figure 1. 2. Remove seat. Safety: disconnect battery prior to all wiring modifications LeatherLyke 510 5/1/2009 3. Disconnect wires to turn signals. 4. Remove turn signals and retain hardware for reinstallation. Observe and mark “left” and “right” for reinstallation. Information: Do not remove license plate bracket . 5. Remove license plate. Turn signal bracket must be oriented with flange (side with only 2 holes) on top. 6. Install turn signal bracket behind license plate bracket and license plate using 6 x 35mm pan phil machine screws for the 800 or 6 x 20mm pan phil machine screws for the 1400, 1/4″ flat washers, and 6mm locknuts. Insert black spacer spool between license plate bracket and turn signal bracket. 7. Mount turn signals directly to turn signal bracket using 6 x 10mm hex cap screws and star lock washer. Information: Observe all color-coding of wires and splice one wire at a time. 8. Cut each turn signal wires three inches from end and splice 10 inches of supplied wire. Secure wires to inner fender clips. 9. Follow route of tail light wires and connect wires into harness. 10. Secure wires together behind license plate bracket with tie wrap. 11. Connect battery and test turn signals for function. 12. Install seat. Information: Not all license plate mounts are grounded. In some cases, it may be necessary to run a ground wire to turn signal bracket. WARNING: States may have minimum width requirements on motorcycle turn- signals, so check your local laws. LeatherLyke 510 5/1/2009 SADDLEBAG INSTALLATION 13. Refer to Figure 2. Information: Cover plates are pressed into strut. 14. Remove round cover plate at end of fender mount strut on right side. 15. Remove nut on right rear and replace with 1.2″ hex adapter. If hex adapter is less than flush with the outside of both fender struts, add a 5/16″ flat washer. 16. Assemble 5 x 30mm flathead screw and 5mm mounting spool with chamfer on spool under head of screw. Insert assembly thru 1 1/4″ fender washer for the 1400 or 1″ for the 800. 17. Install spool assembly into previously installed 1.2” hex adapter. Information: Do not remove washer on shock absorber. Hex adapter will protrude 1/4″ beyond fender strut. 18. Remove round cover plate over right rear shock, remove shock absorber nut and install .75″ hex adapter. 19. Assemble 5 x 30mm flathead screw, mounting spool and cup washer with chamfer on spool under head of screw. 20. Install spool assembly into previously installed hex adapter. 21. Insert 5/8” finishing plug into old turn signal hole on right side. 22. Repeat procedures on opposite side

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Suzuki INTRUDER 1400 SLIP-ON EXHAUST SYSTEM Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 22-12-2010

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REMOVING THE STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Loosenthe mounting bolt and pinch clamp on both left and right hand mufflers. 2. Loosenthe clamp on the crossover tube, located between the two mufflers. 3. Remove the two nuts that mount the front head pipe flange to the cylinder head. 4. Remove the two nuts that mount the rear head pipe flange to the cylinder head. 5. Remove the head pipes using a twisting motion to break the seal at the muffler and to clear the cylinder head. Note : If the exhaust coupler gaskets did not remain in the mufflers, remove them from the head pipes at this time. These coupler gaskets will not be reused in your new exhaust system. 6. Remove the mounting bolt from the left hand muffler. Remove the muffler, again using a twisting motion to seperate the crossover tube and set the muffler aside. (Save the stock mounting hardware for reuse). 7. Repeat step #6 on the the right hand muffler. Set the muffler aside. INSTALLING YOUR NEW VANCE & HINES EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Check the stock exhaust gaskets to be sure they are in good shape. If you have any doubts as to their condition, replace them. 2. Reinstall the stock head pipes to the engine. Note : Leave the flange nuts loose at this time. 3. Remove the mufflers from their boxes. There are a left and right hand muffler in this system. To define the difference between the left and right mufflers, check the bracket that is welded to the back side of the muffler. Each muffler is stamped with it’s own part number. Part # D500 is the RIGHT muffler and Part # D550 is the LEFTmuffler. 4. Install a three hole mounting bracket to each of the mufflers. Slide one dog bone shaped nut plate under the bracket that is welded to the backside of each muffler. Attach the mounting bracket using two of the 5/16 flange head bolts (supplied), leave them loose at this time. Note : Each muffler bracket has a number stamped on it, #179 bracket is for the left hand muffler and #180 is for the right hand muffler. When the brackets are mounted correctly, the end of the bracket with the single hole should point to the inlet end (small end) of the muffler. Refer to figure 1.

2003 Ducati ST4s Timing Belt Adjustment

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 31-10-2010

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This instruction on cam belt adjustment starts after you remove the fairing pieces. Plan on an hour to remove these. Since you are performing your own service, buying Ducati belts may not be that expensive. There may be another belt source, but I have not confirmed this for the 996 engine of the 02-03 ST4s. Fig 1 – ST4s ready for belt adj./ repl. Fig 2 – Crank tool installed. See dwg. 1) Ensure maximum of ½ tank of gas. Fuel will leak into the charcoal canister, then onto the floor if the tank is over half full and the tank is tilted up on its hinge. So put the tank up on its hinge. 2) Remove spark plugs. Cover sparkplug wells with boots or rags. This is a great time to toss out those Champions for a set of NGK DCPR8E’s. 3) Remove the front shield from the horizontal cylinder head. 4) Remove crankshaft cover on Riders LH side and insert crank tool. A crank tool can be made by following the drawing at the end of this document. See Fig 2 above. The flat head screws used are kind of soft so beware on their removal. 5) Remove oil pressure sending unit cable and remove oil sending unit. No oil should pour out. 6) Remove battery and remove bolts fastening battery box to engine/frame. You can let the battery box dangle or partially support it via a bungee cord. Be careful of the cable on the ground of the ECU. By dangling the battery box excess stress could be placed on this cables connector and you don’t want to troubleshoot an intermittent electrical issue. 7) Remove cam belt covers. The two covers over the cams are real easy. The center piece is removed by pulling it down. You may have to move some hoses and cables out Timing belt adj. doc 1
of the way because it is a tight fit. Removing the oil pressure sending unit gave clearance for the removal. Fig 1 shows bike ready to be worked on. On the Rider’s LH is a window on the case cover. Using a flashlight to illuminate the area, marks can be rotated into view using the engine turning tool. There are two marks denoting the TDC of each of the cylinders. When a mark in the window aligns with the pointer, look at the crank driving pulley on the Rider’s RH of the engine. If the driving pulley’s mark is aligned with the pointer on the engine case, you are at TDC horizontal cylinder. If the pulley mark and the pointer on the engine do not align, rotate the engine until the mark in the window on the Rider’s LH side case cover aligns as well as the pulley’s mark and the engine’s pointer. Fig 3 shows the engine pulley and pointer. You can check that the horizontal piston is at TDC by inserting a welding rod into the spark plug well and touch the top of the piston with it to sense its position. Timing marks on cam pulleys are clearly stamped on all four pulleys. When the crank driving pulley aligns with its corresponding pointer on the engine case and the marks on the pulleys align with their corresponding marks on both cylinders, you are in position for belt adjustment and replacement

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4-STROKE TRIUMPH SINGLE CYLINDER MOTORCYCLES ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1. Remove the petrol tank (and seat if necessary) to gain access to the ignition coil, condensor and wiring. 2. For safety, disconnect the battery, if fitted (preferably both terminals). 3. Remove the spark plug. 4. Remove the alternator rotor cover (if fitted). 5. Loosen the auto-advance centre bolt. Rotate the engine to the correct full advance timing position for your machine (see table on page 6), using one of these methods: • Models from 1967 on: use the marks provided for strobe timing on the rotor & chaincase (inside the rotor cover). Unless these marks are known to be accurate it is recommended that they are checked for correct alignment. These marks should line up at the full advance position, check using one of the methods below and, if necessary, re-mark the rotor. • Models from 1969 on: use the timing plug on the left-hand crankcase • Use a degree disc on the crankshaft / camshaft (see table on page 6) • Use a dial guage down the spark plug hole (see table on page 6) 5. Remove kickstart, gear lever and outer timing cover. 6. Remove the contact-breaker plate and lead from the outer timing cover. 7. Taking the ignition trigger assembly, insert a small cable tie into the two holes in front of the connector block on the ignition trigger. This will be used later to secure the two wires to the plate. 8. Fit the ignition trigger plate with the adjustable slots at approx. 6 & 12 o’clock, using the original pillar fixings & washers, positioned in the centre of the slots (to allow for adjustment in either direction). Handle the trigger with care. • RED EARTHING WIRE • CRIMP CONNECTORS & INSULATORS • LARGE & SMALL CABLE TIES • CABLE TIE ADHESIVE MOUNTING BASE 3
9. Remove the centre bolt securing the auto-advance unit. Remove the complete auto-advance unit with an extractor bolt or by tapping it gently sideways. 10. Fit the magnetic rotor in place of the auto-advance unit, with the magnets/ red marks positioned at approx. 3 & 9 o’clock. The magnetic rotor has a male taper which fits into the taper in the end of the camshaft. There is no keyway, allowing it to be fitted in any desired position. 11. Using the ¼” washer and the appropriate bolt (UNF or BSF), pass the bolt through the centre of the magnetic rotor and into the thread in the camshaft. Finger tighten only at this stage. The magnetic rotor centre thread (metric M8) is provided for attaching a puller, if the rotor should need to be removed for engine servicing, etc. 12. Replace the outer timing cover, gear lever & kickstart. 13. Check that the engine is still at the correct full advance position, then adjust the magnetic rotor position so that one of the red marks is centrally behind the static timing hole at 9 o’clock (see fig. 4, page 7). If your machine’s camshaft rotates clockwise, refer to fig. 3. Gently tap the rotor into the taper & tighten the centre bolt, using a 3/16″ allen key. WIRING: 14. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. Avoid coiling up surplus lead.

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ULTIMA IGNITION MODULE AND KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL FOR HARLEY DAVIDSON

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-03-2011

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Disconnect battery. 2. Mark location of timing plate in relation to inside of cam cover. This will give a starting point for timing on new module. Remove old ignition if applicable (see manual) Clymer, Haynes. 3. If your bike is not equipped with timing rotor M/W# 53-528 OEM#32402-83 you must buy one (included in kit). Also a single fire coil is needed (included in kit) M/W# 53-632. Any single fire coil rated 2-4 ohms can be used. NO SOLID CORE PLUG WIRES (copper, silver) they will damage the unit. 4. Install module: helpful hints, early model nose cones, i.e. Shovel Heads, the hole for the wire may need to be drilled out. Align with previously scripted mark for timing. Use lockwashers for stand offs for correct clearance of cover plate. Run wire loom. 5. Connect wires, see wiring diagram. Tape unused wires, green or brown. 12v to tach (brown) will damage module. Set timing. 1996 and later should not be timed 20˚ BTDC as the OEM module, but at 35˚ BTDC. Use this mark when using timing light. If VOESswitch is not used you must ground VOES wire (green) while timing. Refer to manual for correct identification of timing marks. At start up and timing, set spark advance in middle position. FUNCTION SWITCHES LED timing indicator light: When out, shows TDC. When ignition is on, LED will light up. When engine is cranking LED will blink. Electric Start/Kickstart: Set accordingly. VOES/Race mode: VOES switch lets the motor run smoother and improves gas mileage. If you don’t use it or add one tape up green wire and switch to race. VOES switch to use, M/W# 53-652. Spark advance: High compression motors should use race mode and 93 octane or better gas. Changing from VOES to race changes advance curves. Agood rule of thumb is if the engine knocks when throttle is applied in high gear, turn back spark advance curve until it stops engine knock. RPMlimiter: Set at desired RPM to cut engine power. Rear Cylinder: This is for racing and should be set at a dyno. +/-5˚. Rear cylinder timing is achieved through this adjuster. Most should dial to middle setting and leave alone. After all switches are set, install cover with supplied gasket and feel the increased performance of a solid state single fire ignition. Again, we remind you, if you don’t feel confident about installing this unit, let a qualified mechanic do it and be assured you are getting the best performance and gas mileage possible.

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SUZUKI INTRUDER 1500 LC BOTH WHEELS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 27-02-2011

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In order to keep the proper balance on the bike lift, I would suggest that the front wheel be removed first, this is comparatively easier than the rear wheel which will be explained later. Front wheel removal : Remove the end caps, remove the front axle “Pinch Bolt” front left fork ( item (2) in manual ) remove caliper bolts both (2) both sides (2003 model year) secure calipers, secure wheel from dropping while removing axle from left side. Remove front axle, caution : there are (2) spacers on this axle, left & right, make sure you mark them, as they are both different in shape & in length, & must be re-assembled in same order to provide proper cetrallity of the front wheel with the forks & the brake calipers.both spacers have large flanges which go towards the bearing, the right spacer has (2) flanges, the largest dia. goes towards the bearing. ( very important) Now comes the tough part, I had the original stock pipes, so if you have different pipes, or your bike is a different year, (2003) your choices may be different from mine. Remove OEM right side saddlebag, slack off muffler coupling brackets # 8 & # 8a which connect muffler crossover tank to top muffler, this is where the power of the allen socket wrench set will come in handy, they’re pretty tight with the heat,remove top exhaust pipe bracket bolt (item 19 in manual) the top exhaust pipe should now swing down clear of the rear axle. You may be forced to provide more room for the exit and/or re-installation of the rear wheel by removing the bolt which secures the underside mufflet tank on the lower left side of the frame, (item # 13 in manual) then the (2) bolts, ( items # 14 in manual) which will allow the rear muffler body ( lower exhaust pipe ) to be pulled over to the right to provide access for easier rear wheel entry or removal

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YAMAHA XS650H/ SH Supplementary Service Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 21-11-2010

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Ignition timing check 1. Ignition timing is checked with a timing light by observing the position of the rotor pointer and the marks stamped on the timing plate. The timing plate is marked as follows. “ll” Firing range for No. 1 (L.H.) “T” Top Dead Center for No. 1, fL.H.1 cylinder 2. Connect the timing light to the left cylinder spark plug lead wire. 3. Start the engine and keep the engine speed as specified. Use a tachometer to check the engine speed. B. PICK-UP COIL ASSEMBLY The method of mounting the pick-up coil assembly is changed for easier service work. Thus, the followings “Pick-up coil assembly removal” and “Pick-up coil assembly reinstallation” should be changed. Pick-up coil assembly removal Remove the pick-up coil securing screws and remove the pick-up coil assembly. Pick-up coil assembly reinstallation Install the pick-up coil assembly on to the stator assembly. _ L 4. Specified engine speed: 1,200 r/min The rotor pointer should be within the limits of ” fl ” on the timing plate. If it exceeds the limits or does not steady, check the timing plate for tight- ness and/or ignition system for damage. NOTE: Ignition timing is not adjustable. C. FUEL LEVEL The carburetor is furnished with a drain screw to provide easy access to service work. Thus, the following “Fuel level measurement” should be added. Fuel level measurement NOTE: Before checking the fuel level, note the follow- ing: 1. Place the motorcycle on a level surface. 2. Adjust the motorcycle position by placing a suitable stand or a garage jack under the engine so that the carburetor is positioned vertically. 1. 2. Connect the level gauge (special tool) or a vinyl pipe of 6 mm (0.24 in) in inside diameter to the float bowl nozzle left or right side carburetor. Set the gauge as shown and loosen the drain screw 3. Start the engine and stop it after a few minutes of run. This procedure is neces- sary to obtain the correct fuel level. NOTE: Make sure the fuel petcock is “ON” or “RES” oosition. 4. Note the fuel level and bring the gauge to the other end of the carburetor line and repeat step 3 above. Note the fuel level again and compare it with the previous gauge reading. They should be equal. If not, place a suitable size of wooden piece or the. alike under the center stand and adjust. 5. Check the fuel level one by one. The level should be in the specified range.

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1994-2003 Suzuki GSXR750 and 1997-2004 Suzuki GSXR600 Superbike Kit INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 10-01-2011

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Step 1: Identify the key components that complete our Superbike kit: You should have 2 lines (front kit), 1 double banjo bolt and 2 lower adapters. There are also a total of 7 washers. 5 will be used, and 2 are spares. We strongly suggest having a professional mechanic install these brake lines; all other installations VOID warranty. Inspect your brake system after every race. Step 2: To ensure no paint damage from a brake fluid spill, completely cover the front end of the bike. This process is messy, and brake fluid WILL drip! Step 3: Uninstall stock hoses; be aware of how the stock system was routed in case you need to re-install it. Step 4: Install the Galfer adapters onto the right and left calipers. Thread each adapter into the calipers with one washer, and torque at 12 to 13 ft pounds. (See picture S4) Step 5: Install the right and left lines to the calipers, using the shorter line on the right side. These lines will travel from the master cylinder to the calipers; a double banjo bolt (see picture S5) is included to run two lines down. The positioning sequence on the master cylinder is as follows: Master cylinder, washer, straight banjo (from right line), washer, 12-degree banjo (from left line), washer, and double banjo hex. Double banjo bolt torque level is 12 FT Pounds. ( See picture S6) Make sure that the 90-degree fittings on each caliper are pointing away from the bike just a little bit (see pictures S7 through S9 of calipers) . Thread each banjo end into the adapter, and torque to 6 ½ Ft pounds. Before you proceed to the next step, please check for clearance of the lines. Compress the front end to make sure that the lines are not binding with anything. When the front end is fully extended or fully compressed, double check that the lines are traveling correctly and clear from any obstructions. Once the lines have been checked for clearance, we recommend using a zip-tie to bring the lines together about an inch above the lower triple clamp area. (Picture S10) Step 6: Bleed brake system according to owner’s manual, and build appropriate pressure. Finishing with DOT 4-brake fluid is recommended.

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Honda GL1000 Timing Belts Removal / Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 08-04-2011

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Turn engine as described above until the T-1 mark aligns with engine block marks (it looks a little ‘out’ on the photo, it’s the angle). AND (this is important) the pulley marks align with the marks on the engine cover like here on LEFT side (seen from sitting on bike … remember). and RIGHT side. Mark this position on the central pulley and engine block. Now release the tensioner bolts. (*) And remove the belt. (*) (*) When you do that the right pulley (photo-left) will ‘wander/turn’ out of position when you remove the belt, as it is ‘riding’ on cam ‘slope’ (which is under the influence of the valve springs). Don’t worry. One thing you can do to calm your nerves and keep it in position: put the new belt loosely over the pulley and holding the pulley in the CORRECT POSITION (marks aligned) ‘strip’ a spanner to the frame. Do not use the spanner to turn the pulley. Use your hands … then ‘lock’ it with the spanner. (Make absolutely sure you do not turn (release/loosen) the bolt). And, here’s a nifty trick posted by Mooseheadm5 in another thread: “..one thing that made it super easy (and 3 reduced the anxiety level quite a bit) was that I loosened the tappet adjusters all the way [...snip...] you do not have to fight the valve springs much, plus the cams do not want to snap back or forward so you do not necessarily need to use Octane’s zip-tied wrench trick.” – Thanks, Moosehead . Release left tensioner bolts . Remove belt. Put on new belt. Check the tensioners or ‘tension rollers’. You may think they are ‘fine’: they ‘roll’ and don’t make funny sounds? You won’t know until you’ve had a set of new rollers in your hands. They should be real ‘tight’ as a set of new roller bearings … which I think they are, in fact. If they appear ‘dry’ or make any sounds; renew them and get rid of that high pitched whining sound associated with ‘dry’ rollers. This is how they go on left side (remember…photo-right). And the spring gets attached . … Pulleys in correct position (crank pulley and cam pulley) . … Left belt tight at the bottom … Tension roller loosely attached (let the spring do the tension). (On photo it is not on yet … ooops.

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SUZUKI PUTS THE 'STYLE' IN LIFESTYLE WITH CUSTOM ACCESSORIES INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 14-02-2012

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Suzuki Genuine Accessories are available for the all-new Equator midsize pickup truck, four-door SX4 Sport, five-door SX4 Crossover, XL7 midsize crossover and rugged Grand Vitara. The accessories can be purchased through local Suzuki dealers. Suzuki Equator  All-weather floor mats – Rubberized all-weather mats, ideal for keeping dirt, moisture and harsh debris from coming in contact with the vehicle’s carpet interior.  Bluetooth® module – The Suzuki-integrated hands-free Bluetooth phone system features a clean installation, fresh look and works with most Bluetooth-enabled mobile phones. Quality sound plays through the vehicle’s factory stereo and speakers, and the phone system automatically mutes the radio during phone calls. (Also available for SX4 Sport, SX4 Crossover, Grand Vitara and XL7.)  Body side moldings – Durable polyurethane molding set helps protect exterior paint from door dings and road rash.  Hood mask – Durable vinyl, custom-fit mask helps protect the front end of the vehicle from damage caused by minor road debris.  iPod® interface kit – Provides a seamless connection from an iPod to the vehicle’s radio and/or steering-wheel audio controls. (Also available for SX4 Sport, SX4 Crossover, Grand Vitara and XL7.)

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