98 vulcan classic 1500 carb removal

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KAWASAKI 1500 CARB THUNDER Air Filter Kit Installation And removal Instruction

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) Remove Seat 10mm KAW 1500 CARB ADPTOR QTY PARTS LIST 1 1500 CARB ADAPTOR 1 3″ PIECE OF HOSE 1 DOUBLE BARB 1 L-BARB 1 3/8″ RED PLUG 1 ¼” BLACK VACCUM PLUG 1 M6-1 NYLON INSERT LOCK NUT 3 M6-1 X 16 FLAT SOCKET HD CAP SCREW 1 170 MJ 1 INSTRUCTIONS 2) Remove Dash Plaque 8mm bottom Bolt only 3) Lift from bottom then Remove speedo cable 4) Disconnect Electric Plugs 5) Remove 12mm bolts holding tank 6) Turn petcock OFF – Pinch off fuel line. 7) Disconnect the electric Plug under speedo opening 8) Lift Tank at Rear – Disconnect two Vent Lines; Fuel gage Vent will Pull up – Remove. 9) Remove Chrome Air Cover. 10) Left side Remove two screws – 10mm bolt in side Air box. Pull hoses off Remove 1″ hose going to cross over Tube. 11) Remove two 8mm bolts on Bracket – Remove Bracket 12) Remove Screw on Top of air Box Snorkel 13) Remove both side covers 14) Remove air Backing plate right side (Crank Case Breather hose that connects to stock air box will connect to new) 15) Remove Bracket that holds Carb and holds Backing Plate 16) Take idle adjustable Knob loose – let hang loose 17) Take Choke Knob out of holding Bracket 18) Hose that went to cross over tube MAY BE PLUGGED OR VENTED your Choice (Fresh air unit) ** 98′S or any models with carb warmer should disconnect carb warmer by pinching off line on each side of connector that plugs into carb on bottom. Small bracket with one screw directly on the bottom of carb. 19) Loosen Clamp that holds Carb to intake Manifold, Carb will hang loose 20) Remove intake Manifold 5mm Allen- Remove crossover tube. 21) (- BE CAREFULL-) LINE IT UP RIGHT- Replace intake Manifold (YOU MAY TO SEAL THIS WITH A SEALER LIKE PERMATEX) ( BE SUPER CAREFUL TO KEEP INTAKE COVERED DURING EACH STEP. SCREWS CAN FALL ONTO INTAKE) 22) Drain Float Bowl 3mm allen – very bottom of carb 23) Remove Float Bowl 4 screws (#2 Phillips) let hang down 24) Remove main jet, if Emulsion tube comes out use 8mm and Flat tip to separate jet from Emulsion tube. 25) Install with new jet 26) CAREFULLY Reinstall Float Bowl Cover 27) If installing Needle Remove Top Cover of Carb, Carefully pull the slide out. ( BE CAREFUL WITH DIAPHRAM) Remove Spring + Needle Install new Needle (WE RECOMMEND THE 3RD CLIP FROM TOP WITH TWO WASHERS ON TOP. REINSTALL 28) Be sure to reseat diaphragm – BE CAREFUL Reinstall Cover. 29) Install Carb to Intake – reconnect carb warmer if applicable 30) Reattach idle adjustment 31) Reattach Choke 32) Reattach Bracket in front of Carb- 33) Take Center bolt mount Rubber Gromlet from Stock Air box Plate install in to new Air box Adapter use stock Bolt, Attach to Bracke

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HW Prowler Carburetor Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. Remove both seats and the plastic seat pans under the seats. 2. Remove the engine cover 3. Remove the air-box by removing the cross-bar support that runs under the air-box to the framing on each side by the seat framing and disconnect the air box from the carburetor and from the plastic intake in the rear. 4. Disconnect the engine breather hose from the bottom of the air box 5. Set the air-box to the side 6. Disconnect the plug going to the stock carburetor, this is the electronic choke. Wrap the end left on the vehicle with electrical tape. 7. Cut the fuel line just above the fitting on the passenger side of the carb 8. Remove the side cover off the drivers side of the carb where the throttle cable goes in, see fig. #1 9. Pull the throttle cable out and then remove the throttle cable end from the throttle plate See Fig. #2 10. Loosen the clamp on the rear of the carb holding the carb on 11. Pull the carb out of the intake boot 12. Set OE carb to the side. 13. Push the new Carb into the intake boot making sure the carb is perfectly vertical and then tighten the clamp back up. The new carb is slightly larger than the stock one so some additional pressure will be needed to get it in. 14. Route all the breather lines connected to the carb down under the carb. 15. Connect the throttle cable onto the new carb but putting the cable end in the bottom hole of the throttle plate on the passenger side of the carb allowing the cable to ride in the slot in the plate and then turn the throttle plate clock wise allowing the threaded end of the cable to fit into the lower round hole of the throttle cable connection plate. See Fig. #3 16. Make sure you have a nut on each side of the plate turn the nut on the outside of the plate to take up the slack in the throttle cable then tighten the nut on the inside of the plate. See Fig. #3 17. Push the fuel line onto the fuel inlet on the passenger side of the carb and install the supplied clamp to hold it on. The fuel line will be a little hard to push on. 18. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL THE CHOKE CABLE PARTS SUPPLIED IN THE KIT UNTIL AFTER THE CHOKE CABLE ITSELF IS INSTALLED AND READY TO SCREW INTO THE CARBUETOR. 19. To install the supplied choke cable, drill a 3/8″ hole in the dash on the left side of the steering wheel in a location convenient to your left hand. 20. Remove the plastic nut from the bottom of the choke handle on the choke cable. 21. Push the choke cable thru the hole you drilled and then slide the nut over the cable to the inside of the dash and reinstall back on the back of the choke mechanism. Some dash screws maybe needed to be removed to accomplish this

SUZUKI INTRUDER 1500 LC BOTH WHEELS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 27-02-2011

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In order to keep the proper balance on the bike lift, I would suggest that the front wheel be removed first, this is comparatively easier than the rear wheel which will be explained later. Front wheel removal : Remove the end caps, remove the front axle “Pinch Bolt” front left fork ( item (2) in manual ) remove caliper bolts both (2) both sides (2003 model year) secure calipers, secure wheel from dropping while removing axle from left side. Remove front axle, caution : there are (2) spacers on this axle, left & right, make sure you mark them, as they are both different in shape & in length, & must be re-assembled in same order to provide proper cetrallity of the front wheel with the forks & the brake calipers.both spacers have large flanges which go towards the bearing, the right spacer has (2) flanges, the largest dia. goes towards the bearing. ( very important) Now comes the tough part, I had the original stock pipes, so if you have different pipes, or your bike is a different year, (2003) your choices may be different from mine. Remove OEM right side saddlebag, slack off muffler coupling brackets # 8 & # 8a which connect muffler crossover tank to top muffler, this is where the power of the allen socket wrench set will come in handy, they’re pretty tight with the heat,remove top exhaust pipe bracket bolt (item 19 in manual) the top exhaust pipe should now swing down clear of the rear axle. You may be forced to provide more room for the exit and/or re-installation of the rear wheel by removing the bolt which secures the underside mufflet tank on the lower left side of the frame, (item # 13 in manual) then the (2) bolts, ( items # 14 in manual) which will allow the rear muffler body ( lower exhaust pipe ) to be pulled over to the right to provide access for easier rear wheel entry or removal

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42MM MIKUNI FLATSLIDE CARBURETOR INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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To install, remove the stock carb per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Remove stock throttle cables. Install Mikuni HSR carb into intake manifold and tighten manifold clamp. Install new HSR series throttle cables and adjust cable slack per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Hook fuel line to HSR carb and fasten clamp.* Start motorcycle and fine tune HSR carb for proper running per supplied Mikuni tuning manual. *NOTE: Mikuni HSR series carburetors are designed for gravity-feed fuel systems. You should bypass your stock fuel pump and directly feed your HSR carb right from the fuel petcock. We have noted, though, that you may not be able to get good fuel flow from your Road Star fuel tank in low-fuel situations. You may run your stock fuel pump with the HSR carb, but to do so requires the purchase and installation of an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (set at 1/2 to 1 lb. of pressure). These are available from most auto parts stores. The stock carb has 2 wires running to the lower rear of the float bowl , these were for a carb warmer, they are not used in this application. Unplug these wires at the main wire harness and retain with your stock carb. The Road Star ignition system uses data from the stock throttle position sensor (TPS) to manage your ignition timing. It is necessary to give the bike this information. You may do so by removing the TPS sensor from the stock carb, leaving it plugged into the main wire harness (the sensor must be fixed to a closed-throttle position), or you may locate the plug for the TPS on the main wire harness and test the leads – you will find one ground, one with .5V and one with 1.5V. Connect the 1.5V to the ground and this will give the bike the same information as stock fully closed throttle. The output of the OEM fuel pump is too high and will cause fuel overflow in the HSR carb, resulting in a possible dangerous fire hazard

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2002 URAL Classic Motorcycles BC-75 (Bavarian Classic) LC-75 (Luxury Cruiser) Tourist, Adirondac & Patro Owner's Manual

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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Front brake control lever (Fig.1, #5). When the lever is squeezed, the front wheel brake is actuated. The front brake should be used together with rear brake. When the brake lever is squeezed, the stop signal lamps are switched on. Kick lever (Fig.1, #11) is designed to start the engine. On pressing the lever the crankshaft of the engine is actuated through the gearbox. The lever is returned to its initial position by the spring inside the gearbox. Note: this is a backup to the electric starter. Gear shift foot pedal (Fig.1, #12) is a two-arm type. When the front arm is pressed, shifting from high to lower gears takes place. When the rear arm is pressed, shifting from low to higher gears takes place. Since the heel-toe shift lever is short-coupled, you will find it easier to shift up if you rotate the heel of your left foot in towards the rear arm before stepping on it with your heel. The neutral position is fixed between the I and II gears. Speedometer is on the dash board, with trip (Note..BC-75 has no trip odometer) and total odometer. The trip odometer is reset to zero by rotating push-button (Fig.1, # 3) counterclockwise. Note that the odometer reads in kilometers not miles. Ignition Switch (Fig.1, # 19) has three fixed positions of the key. The position and switching diagram of the ignition locks are shown above.
18 The indicator lamps are mounted on the instrument board: (Fig. 1, # 2) — turn indicator pilot lamp, (orange) (Fig. 1, # 4) — gearbox neutral and reverse gear engagement, (green) (Fig. 1, # 18) — head lamp high beam indicator, (dark blue) (Fig. 1, # 20) — alternator fault indicator lamp, (red) Note: If the red alternator fault light stays on continuously during normal operation above approximately 1500 RPM, there is a problem with the charging system or battery. Throttle Control (Fig.1, # 6) is on the right handlebar. Turning the twist grip counterclockwise increases engine speed. Ignition Cutoff Switch (Fig.1, # 7) has two positions, ignition off (up), and ignition on (down). Low and High Beam Light Switch (Fig.1, # 15), turn indicator switch (Fig.1, #13) and horn push-button (Fig.1, # 14) are combined in one unit on the left-hand handle bar control housing. Master Battery Switch (Fig.1, # 21) is under the seat. Electric Start Button (Fig. 1, # 8) is located on the right-hand twist grip, below the kill switch. The Steering Damper absorbs lateral kicks on the front wheel. Turning tightening bolt (Fig.1, # 17) clockwise increases friction. This can be used while riding over bad roads

YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Carburetor Bowl Screw Repair and Removal After Stripping and Pilot Cap Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012

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When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.

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KAWASAKI VULCAN 1500 PRO PIPE HS EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 28-12-2010

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REMOVING THE STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Remove the mufflers by loosening the pinch clamps on the front of each muffler. 2. Remove the muffler mounting bolt from the right side passenger footrest, slide the mufflers off and set them aside. Note: Save the mounting bolt, it will be reused for installation. 3. Loosen the pinch clamp on both front and rear head pipes, they’re located at the resonance chamber (the black box where the pipes meet). 4. Remove the two acorn nuts that mount the head pipe to the cylinder head. Remove the two piece header flange and set it aside. 5. Remove the front head pipe by rotating it down and pull it out of the resonance chamber. 6. Remove the two acorn nuts and flange from the rear head pipe. Remove the two bolts from either side of the resonance chamber and lower rear pipe and resonance chamber down and out and set it aside. 7. Remove the rubber grommets at the resonance chamber mounting points. INSTALLING YOUR NEW VANCE & HINES EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Install the new mounting bracket (stamped 317) to the inside of the stock muffler mounting point (Refer to FIG. 1). 2. Unscrew all of the hose clamps (supplied) until they are completely loose. Mark the top edge of all three heat shields with the location of the mounting clips that are welded to the backside. Position the front heat shield over the head pipe and feed the tail end of the hose clamps into the clips. Be sure that each hose clamp is engaged with both clips. Repeat this step with the rear and collector heat shields. To facilitate the installation of the collector heat shield use a forward sliding motion from the rear of the collector. Do not force the collector heat shield directly onto the collector as damage to the heat shield will result. Note: the collector heat shield uses the 3/8″ wide clamps. 3. Rotate the hose clamps in the shields so that the screw drives are accessible. Tighten only finger tight at this time. Note: The screw end of the hose clamp should be accessible, but not visible when pipe is mounted on the bike. 4. Check to be sure that the stock exhaust gaskets are in good shape. If you have any doubts as to their condition, replace them. 5. Install the header with the heat shields attached, to the front and rear cylinders using the stock nuts and bolts. Leave them loose at this time. 6. Slide the chrome muffler clamp (supplied) onto the inlet end of the megaphone. Install the 5/16″ x 1 1/4″ bolt with a flat washer on either side of the clamp followed by the 5/16″ lock nut (hardware supplied). Leave the clamp loose at this time. 7. Slip the megaphone onto the head pipe collector, engaging the collector heat shield between the clamp and the outer slip joint tube. Slide one dog bone shaped nut plate under the bracket that

KAWASAKI VULCAN 1500, 1600, 2000 HANDLEBAR RISERS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Lay a blanket folded several times over the fuel tank to protect it. 2. Loosen (do not remove) from underneath, the two hex nuts holding the risers to the upper triple clamp. (Steering head) 3. Remove the four handlebar clamp bolts. (8mm allen wrench) While sitting on the motorcycle, pull the handlebars and upper clamp off of the risers. They may be slightly stuck and require some force to get free. Lay the handlebar and/or upper clamp/gauge assembly carefully on the blanket. 4. Remove the nuts and risers from the triple clamp. NOTE: Be careful not to scratch the upper triple clamp when installing the new risers. Assemble the supplied lock washers and flat washers onto the supplied bolts. Install the new risers onto the triple clamp and finger-tighten the bolts. 5. Re-install the handlebars and upper clamp/gauge assembly. Tighten the front bolts first closing the gap at the front, and then tighten the rear bolts. Tighten the two riser-mounting bolts securely. Check for adequate clearance and proper routing of cables and hoses.

KAWASAKI VULCAN 900 CLASSIC specifications

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-11-2010

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Engine type Four-stroke V-Twin Displacement 903cc Bore x stroke 88 x 74.2 mm Compression ratio 9.5:1 Valve system SOHC, 8 valves Cooling system Liquid Fuel system Digital Fuel Injection with dual 34 mm throttle bodies Ignition TCBI with digital advance Starting Electric Transmission 5-speed Final drive Kevlar belt Frame type Double-cradle, high-tensile steel Rake/trail 32º/164 mm (6.5 in.) Suspension, front 41 mm hydraulic telescopic fork Suspension, rear Single shock with 7-way preload adjustment Tire, front 130/90-16 Tire, rear 180/70-15 Brakes, front/rear Single 300 mm disc with 2-piston calipers/ 270 mm hydraulic disc with 2-piston calipers Wheelbase 1645 mm (64.8 in.) Seat height 680 mm (26.8 in.) Fuel capacity 20 litres (4.4 gal.) Curb weight* 281 kg (619 lbs.) Warranty 12 month

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Kawasaki Vulcan 1600 Classic Exhaust Serrated Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Loosen both top and bottom muffler hose clamps as shown. (Fig.1&2) Figure 1 Figure 2 2. Remove 10mm bolt with 10mm nut on back side of bracket as shown. (Fig. 3&4) Figure 3 Figure 4 3. Loosen 6mm bolt on passenger foot peg bracket as shown. Once loose remove top muffler 10mm nut and 10mm bolt. Slide bolt out of rubber grommet. (Fig.5&6) Figure 5 Figure 4. Carefully remove top and bottom stock mufflers, by sliding both mufflers out by rear fender. (Fig. 7) Figure 7 5. Use Phillips screw driver and remove bolt as shown. Remove side cover carefully by pulling towards your body. (Fig.8&9) Figure 8 Figure 9 6. Remove rear head pipe by removing two stock socket cap nuts as shown. Once nuts are removed pull rear head pipe away from bike and set aside. (Fig.10) Figure 107. Remove stock front head pipe by removing two stock socket cap nuts as shown. Once nuts are removed pull front head pipe away from the bike and set aside. (Fig.11&12) Figure 11 Figure 12

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