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2008 KTM 250 SX-F 250 XC-F, XCF-W 250 EXC-F, EXC-F SIX DAYS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 22-10-2010

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Hand brake lever The hand brake lever [1] is mounted on the handlebars on the right and actuates the front wheel brake. The adjusting screw [A] can be used to change the basic position of the hand brake lever (see “Maintenance”). 1 A Short circuit button The short circuit button [2] turns off the engine. When pressing this button, the ignition circuit is short-circuited. 2 Headlamp switch (XCF-W) In this model the headlamp is switched on with the pull switch [5] . 5 Flasher switch The flasher switch is a separate unit and is mounted on the left portion of the handlebar. The wire harness is designed in a way that whenever you want to use your bike off-road, you can dismount the entire turn indicator system without affecting the function of the remaining electrical system. Flasher left Flasher right
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS » ENGLISH 7 1 2 3 4 5 Starter button Pushing the red starter button [1] will actuate the E-starter. Emergency OFF switch (EXC-F Australia) The red emergency-OFF switch [2] is arranged adjacent to the throttle grip. In this position, the E-starter is operational and the engine can be started. In this position, the E-starter and ignition circuits are interrupted.The E-starter cannot be actuated, and the engine will not start, not even if you attempt to start it with the kickstarter. Pushing the black starter button [3] will actuate the E-starter. Indicator lamps The green control lamp [4] flashes in the same rhythm as the flashing indicator when the indicator is working. The blue control lamp [5] lights up when the high beam is on. TEST All of the display segments briefly light up for the display function test. Electronic speedometer The display in the electronic speedometer is activated as soon as you press a button on the speedometer or an impulse is received from the wheel sensor. The display lights up when the engine is running. The display is cleared if no button is pressed for 1 minute or no impulse is received from the wheel sensor. The button is used to change between display modes. The + and – buttons are used to control various functions

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Kawasaki Ninja 250 FAQ

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 15-11-2010

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Am I too small for this motorcycle? Duke – Sun May 14 17:38:31 2000 I’m only about 5’2″ and don’t have a problem, even though I can only touch the ground with the ends of my toes. Once you get a feel for the balance of the bike it’s not hard to keep everything upright. Only place I have trouble is pushing the bike backwards in a parking lot. Usually I just walk the bike (beside it) to where I can get on and get going. How does the EX500 compare to the EX250? Craig M. – Mon May 22 10:23:29 2000 I have both the EX250 and the EX500; both are Y2K models. The 250 is a screamer that performs well and can easily get me into trouble. My only complaints about the 250 are the excessive nose dive when getting on the front brake hard and the skittishness of the rear during high speed cornering. Both are easily corrected with suspension adjustments, I’ve just been too lazy to get the parts and do the work. A bit more wind protection would be great too. The 500 addresses these problems, the diving of the front end (to a degree); the rear’s skittishness and the wind protection. A plus for the 500 is the greater torque and power off the line; it pulls stronger (in my opinion) and will get you into illegal speed territory just a bit quicker than the 250. With greater weight, is has more stability in high speed and windy situations. Insurance is just about the same for both, with the 250 getting the nod for gas mileage. Service requirements are almost identical for both as well, being that they’re both parallel twins, the technology is the virtually the same. The downfalls of the 500: $2K more than the 250 (can do a lot to the 250 with that kind of money); buzzy mirrors, barely useful; heavier weight to have to push around the garage; lesser gas mileage (55-60 MPG; 250 pushes 70 MPG easily); engine is worse than a nervous dog shaking around at idle and at speed (here the 250 is far superior and much smoother). In my opinion, the 500 is a better suited for a larger rider, from a comfort standpoint. I feel I can stretch out a bit more on it than the 250 (I’m 5′ 9″, 160 lbs). The 250′s brakes are better tuned than the 500 and the shifter is much smoother. That may be due to the 3,500 mile difference between the two bikes. Bottom line, both bikes are great, the 250 is now my wife’s ride (mainly) and the 500′s mine (unless she steals the keys away). In time, I’ll make the adjustments to the 250; she doesn’t push it like I do.

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KTM Preload Adjuster frontfork Disassembly And assembling

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 13-02-2011

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Product Exploded View Disassembly & Assembling Workshop manual Preload Adjuster frontfork 5 Preload Adjuster Frontfork 03/2002 Screw the screw-cap to the right so that the spring washer is turning out of the screw-cap PA. Remove the spring washer. Pay attention to the assembling direction!!! Turn the plastic adjustment tube holder out of the screw-cap. 12_021 12_022 12_023Product Exploded View Disassembly & Assembling Workshop manual Preload Adjuster frontfork 6 Preload Adjuster Frontfork 03/2002 1. Remove the O-ring inside. Unscrew the air release plug. 12_024 12_025 12_026 2. Remove the O-ring.Product Exploded View Disassembly & Assembling Workshop manual Preload Adjuster frontfork 7 Preload Adjuster Frontfork 03/2002 Disassemble the adjusting knob from the screw-cap. Pay attention to the steel balls and spring!!! 12_027 12_028 12_029 Heat the steel nut. Unscrew the nut (size 32) clockwise .Product Exploded View Disassembly & Assembling Workshop manual Preload Adjuster frontfork 8 Preload Adjuster Frontfork 03/2002 The nut. Pay attention to the assembling direction!!! Remove the O-ring. 12_030 12_031 12_032 Push the holder rebound PA out of the screw-cap.Product Exploded View Disassembly & Assembling Workshop manual Preload Adjuster frontfork 9 Preload Adjuster Frontfork 03/2002 – springring – spring washer – O-rings – holder rebound adjustment tube – rebound adjusting knob with steel balls and spring – air release screw with O-ring – nut – holder rebound adjustment cpl. with O-ring – screw-cap PA

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Honda GL 500 Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-11-2010

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Wheel Alignment Wheel alignment is critical for proper tire wear and handling. With MiniTrike installed measure A and B . Loosen axle plates and align wheel so A and B are equal to within 1/16th of an inch. Tighten axle bolts and torque to 45 pounds. Repeat for C and D . It may be necessary to shim axle plates for proper alignment. NOTE : The measurement of A and B may not be the same as C and D. This is normal and presents no difficulty. Wheel Height / Traction Adjuster The wheel height/traction adjuster (right and left side) allows you to selectively adjust the position of your trike wheels in order to customize ride, handling, level, and traction characteristics. Your trike is shipped with the adjuster preset to an optimum position for your model of motorcycle however you can make whatever adjustments necessary to customize to your bike and personal preference. Shortening the adjuster arm raises the trike wheels and places more of the weight of your motorcycle on the motorcycle wheel. This increases motorcycle traction and gives a generally softer ride. 1) Loosen jam nuts 2) Shorten adjuster arm by turning adjuster nut A toward bolt C desired amount. 3) Turn adjuster nut B until it tightens against adjuster bracket and adjuster nut A 4) Tighten nuts A and B and jam nuts Lengthening the adjuster arm lowers the trike wheels and places more of the weight of your motorcycle on the trike wheels. This gives a firmer ride and increases handling/cornering. 1) Loosen jam nuts 2) Lengthen adjuster arm by turning adjuster nut B toward bolt D desired amount. 3) Turn adjuster nut A until it tightens against adjuster bracket and adjuster nut B 4) Tighten nuts A and B and jam nuts

How to Replacing Rear Main Seal 1

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

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The next day I woke up early and drank lots of coffee before going out to the garage. I knew I had two distinct problems confronting me. First, I would have to purchase an impact tool in order to loosen the six bolts holding the clutch together. Also, I would have to purchase at least three 8mm by 50mm bolts and nuts in order to prevent the clutch from exploding when the six bolts were unscrewed. For the third time in two days, I went to Sears and asked the salesman, (who I now I knew as Art,) where I could find an impact tool. He did not know what it was I was looking for, but he asked another employee and soon I had the tool as well as a 6mm Allen socket. Unfortunately, the Allen socket only came in 3/8″ drive, and the impact tool only came in 1/2″ drive. Thinking quickly, I purchased a 1/2″ to 3/8″ adapter, as well as a 3lb. dead- blow hammer. On the way home, I stopped at a Chief Auto Parts to buy the bolts I would need. The closest size they had were 8mm by 40mm, which was nearly 10mm too short. I was unsure whether the clutch cover bolts were coarse thread or fine thread, so I bought three of each, along with corresponding nuts. Finally, around 11 o’clock in the morning, I was back at the garage ready to work. I prepared the impact tool and placed the adapter and the Allen socket on it. I began to hammer on the end of the tool, trying to loosen each of the six bolts. None of them seemed to move, even though it seemed the impact tool was turning. Finally, I put the Allen socket on the breaker bar and found that all of the bolts had actually come loose. The tension from the clutch spring made it nearly impossible to see, however. I removed three of the bolts in a triangular pattern. Into these empty holes I threaded the fine- thread 40mm bolts with nuts attached and tightened them evenly. I was now able to remove the remaining Allen bolts. By slowly turning and loosening the nuts evenly on the 40mm bolts, I relieved the pressure from the clutch spring until the cover plate was free. I removed the cover plate, the clutch, the pressure plate, and finally the clutch spring. I had already marked each of the elements with Whiteout to insure that they would fit together the same way on installation. Apparently, this is essential as the flywheel could be rendered out-of-balance if the clutch components are not installed correctly. The flywheel itself was now exposed. I could see the five bolts that attached it to the crankshaft. I now used a tool I had fabricated. Although the manual describes two possible tools that can be fabricated, I found a piece of metal that resembled the tool and decided to use it. Unfortunately it was not strong enough and broke. I turned and looked at my workbench, and noticed a bracket which I had previously fabricated for mounting a mirror on my Vespa. The piece of steel was extremely strong and was already pre-drilled with correct-sized holes. It fit perfectly, so I placed it over the exposed bolt which protruded from the case, and placed the other end on one of the 40mm bolts, which I then bolted into the flywheel itself. I used the breaker bar again and removed the five bolts. The flywheel came loose after inserting two more 40mm bolts and tugging on them evenly

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2003 – 2008 4Runner AND 2007 – 2008 FJ Cruiser FRONT AND REAR DIFFERENTIAL GEAR OIL SPECIFICATION CHANGE

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 14-11-2011

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75W-85 GL5 synthetic gear oil beginning with the 2008 model year. This new synthetic gear oil is compatible with 2003 – 2007 model year 4Runner and 2007 model year FJ Cruiser differentials. Please refer to the Parts Information section below for information about this gear oil and use this gear oil (or equivalent) when filling front or rear differentials with oil. 2003 – 2008 model year 4Runner vehicles. 2007 – 2008 model year FJ Cruiser vehicles. PREVIOUS PART NUMBER CURRENT PART NUMBER PART NAME TYPE QTY N/A 08885-02606 Toyota Genuine Differential Gear Oil LX 75W-85 API GL-5 SAE 75W-85 LSD As Needed N/A 08885-02506 Toyota Genuine Differential Gear Oil LT 75W-85 API GL-5 SAE 75W-85 w/o LSD As Needed Refer to the diagram below to identify if LSD or non-LSD gear oil is used on the vehicle. For applicable vehicles, there is a caution label above the filler plug, as shown below

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Triumph Rocket III Touring HANDLEBAR RISERS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Place a blanket folded several times over the fuel tank to help prevent any damage during the installation of the risers. Using a small screwdriver pry out the plastic caps covering the handlebar clamp bolts. 2. Reroute the clutch cable behind the steering head as follows. Remove the clutch cable from the lever and perch. To do this first loosen the cable adjuster lock nut and then the adjuster as far as possible to give its maximum free play. Align their slots with the slot in the perch so that the cable may slide out. Standing in front of the handlebars grasp the clutch cable firmly trying to pull it out of the adjuster with one hand while pulling in the lever with the other hand. Now release the lever rapidly. Repeat several times if needed while keeping outward tension on the cable until the cable is out of the adjuster then slide it out thru the slots and remove the cable end from the lever. Reroute the clutch cable behind the steering head this will allow the additional slack needed when moving the handlebars back with the new risers (see photo). Replace the cable into the perch in the same manner. 3. It will help having a second person to hold the handlebars while you change the risers. Remove the four Allen bolts from the clamps and then remove the clamps. Pull the handlebars up off the risers, pull them back and rest them on top of the blanket. 4. Remove the Allen bolts from the center of the risers while holding the 14mm nut on the bottom side of the steering head with a wrench. Remove the risers leaving the large washer on the top side of the steering head in place. Using the bolts and lock washers supplied and the original heavy or thick washer install the new risers making the bolts finger tight only. 5. Place the handlebars back up onto the new risers. Install the new top clamps supplied using the four Allen bolts remover earlier. Set the height of the handlebars to the desired position, tighten the front bolts first and then the rear securely. (15-18 ft. lbs.) (There should be no gap between the riser and clamp at the front side) Tighten the two riser mounting bolts securely. (20-25 ft. lbs.). Replace the plastic bolt caps.

KYMCO MAXXER 300/ 250 MONGOOSE 300/ 250 SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kymco) by admin on 26-10-2010

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apply or add designated greases and lubricants to the specified lubrication points. ÑAfter reassembly, check all parts for proper tightening and operation. ÑWhen two persons work together, pay attention to the mutual working safety. ÑDisconnect the battery negative (-) terminal before operation. ÑWhen using a spanner or other tools, make sure not to damage the motorcycle surface. ÑAfter operation, check all connecting points, fasteners, and lines for proper connection and installation. ÑWhen connecting the battery, the positive (+) terminal must be connected first. ÑAfter connection, apply grease to the battery terminals. ÑTerminal caps shall be installed securely. 1 . GENERAL INFORMATION 1-6 ATV 300/250 ÑIf the fuse is burned out, find the cause and repair it. Replace it with a new one according to the specified capacity. ÑAfter operation, terminal caps shall be installed securely. ÑWhen taking out the connector, the lock on the connector shall be released before operation. ÑHold the connector body when connecting or disconnecting it. ÑDo not pull the connector wire. ÑCheck if any connector terminal is bending, protruding or loose. Confirm Capacity 1 . GENERAL INFORMATION 1-7 ATV 300/250 ÑThe connector shall be inserted completely. ÑIf the double connector has a lock, lock it at the correct position. ÑCheck if there is any loose wire

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2008 KAWASAKI KX 250 F RACING AND EVOLUTION EXHAUST SYSTEM

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-11-2010

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the Akrapovic Racing and Evolution complete exhaust systems are the flagships of our product lines. They are designed for competition-oriented MX riders who demand maximum performance from their exhaust systems. With their production quality, engine performance improvements and modern Hexagonal muffler design they satisfy the requirements of all riders. The systems are designed for two markets; in the US they are available with an approved spark arrester, and for the EU and other non-US markets they come with a noise damper. New for 2008 is additional chamber that helps to reduce noise emission and provides better power and torque at low rpm range. PERFORMANCE Measurements of the Akrapovic EVOLUTION system on the KAWASAKI KX 250 F (with muffler insert): Power & Torque: The Akrapovic Evolution and Racing systems deliver a performance increase throughout nearly the entire rpm range. It is most pronounced in the bottom and the top of the range. The systems deliver increased torque similar to the power increase. Max. increased power of 0.7 HP was measured at 12260 rpm, while max. power of 34.6 HP was measured at 11400 rpm. CONFIGURATION Akrapovic Racing and Evolution systems are of a recognised Hexagonal off-road form. They differ only in terms of the material of the pipe: we use stainless steel for Racing and titanium for Evolution. The header tube is conical, made from stainless steel (Racing) or titanium (Evolution) with additional chamber. It is jointed with a conical SS/titanium link pipe by a sleeve joint, which is secured with a silicon-shielded spring. The link pipe is welded to the muffler. The inlet cap, due to the method of connection with the link pipe, is made from stainless steel (Racing) or titanium (Evolution), same for the internal perforation. The outlet cap is made of carbon-fiber for evolution and composite polymer for Racing system. The outer sleeve of the muffler is available either made from titanium or carbon fiber. The system is attached to the motorcycle with the Akrapovic carbon fiber clamp. The Akrapovic carbon fiber heat shield is also intended for this system. The system comes with a built-in noise damper for the European and other markets, and an approved spark arrester for the American market, which is marked with a laser engraving

2008 KAWASAKI KX 250 F SLIP-ON EXHAUST SYSTEM

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-11-2010

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quality, engine performance improvements and modern Hexagonal muffler design they satisfy the requirements of all riders. The systems are designed for two markets; in the US they are available with an approved spark arrester, and for the EU and other non-US markets they come with a noise damper. New for 2008 is additional chamber that helps to reduce noise emission and provides better power and torque at low rpm range. PERFORMANCE Measurements of the Akrapovic EVOLUTION system on the KAWASAKI KX 250 F (with muffler insert): Power & Torque: The Akrapovic Evolution and Racing systems deliver a performance increase throughout nearly the entire rpm range. It is most pronounced in the bottom and the top of the range. The systems deliver increased torque similar to the power increase. Max. increased power of 0.7 HP was measured at 12260 rpm, while max. power of 34.6 HP was measured at 11400 rpm. CONFIGURATION Akrapovic Racing and Evolution systems are of a recognised Hexagonal off-road form. They differ only in terms of the material of the pipe: we use stainless steel for Racing and titanium for Evolution. The header tube is conical, made from stainless steel (Racing) or titanium (Evolution) with additional chamber. It is jointed with a conical SS/titanium link pipe by a sleeve joint, which is secured with a silicon-shielded spring. The link pipe is welded to the muffler. The inlet cap, due to the method of connection with the link pipe, is made from stainless steel (Racing) or titanium (Evolution), same for the internal perforation. The outlet cap is made of carbon-fiber for evolution and composite polymer for Racing system. The outer sleeve of the muffler is available either made from titanium or carbon fiber. The system is attached to the motorcycle with the Akrapovic carbon fiber clamp. The Akrapovic carbon fiber heat shield is also intended for this system. The system comes with a built-in noise damper for the European and other markets, and an approved spark arrester for the American market, which is marked with a laser engraving.

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