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Suspension Basics for BMW Motorcycles

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 30-11-2010

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tires: Tires are the first part of any suspension system. The design of the tire and even the pressure you run can have a profound affect on the way your motorcycle handles. Stiff, low profile tires will give a sharper feel to the bike, as will higher tire pressures. Those of us who ride our GS’s off the road will decrease the tire pressure to about 50% of the street spec when we are in the dirt. The tire then becomes a very active part of the suspension, but will wallow like an old pig if not re-inflated when pressed back into pavement duty. It still surprises me when we have a customer complain that his BMW needs new shocks when they come in with nearly flat tires. It is possible that the best dollars-per- unit improvement you can make to your BMW may be in keeping the tires inflated. Chassis: There is not much that we can do about the chassis design, unless we are Troy the Welder, but it is a fact that different frames and swing arms flex differently and therefore are part of the suspension. On the Airheads, we often braced various parts of the frame and swing arms, resulting in improved handling that even mere mortals could appreciate. On the latest BMW’s it would take the likes of a Valentino Rossi to even notice if the parts were stiffened. Stiffer is not always better. One of the Japanese racing bike manufactures controls the stiffness of the frame in various areas to allow some flex for better handling. So, Mr. Rossi might not even like it if Troy stiffened his new BMW. Springs: Springs control the ride height of the motorcycle and the ability to allow for different loads. On most BMW’s there is a way to adjust the spring preload to some extent so that the ride can be optimized for a light rider or two-up operation with luggage. Dampers: Dampers control the speed and frequency at which the suspension operates by changing the kinetic (moving) energy to thermal (heat) energy. Without the damper, the suspension would oscillate as each movement occurred, resulting in decreased vehicle control. Dampers on BMW’s fall into two main groups. On airheads, older K bikes, F and G models, and the R1200 HP-2, the front dampers are integrated into the forks. On the rear of the above mentioned -3 – models, and on both ends of all the rest of the bikes, there is a more common shock absorber, around which the spring is located. The HP-2 uses an air spring and air dampened rear shock. Seat: OK, folks, this is here for my old buddy Jeff. We know that a seat isn’t part of suspension, but a bad one sure can make you miserable. We have sent dozens of seats to our friend Mike Harris for inexpensive mods that might improve your riding enjoyment more than any suspension changes you could make! Let us know if we can help you with this most important item

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Adjusting the Pekar K68 for Dnepr or Ural

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 11-11-2010

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1. Make sure the ignition timing is correct 2. Adjust the valves as necessary to ensure proper operation 3. Run the engine to warm it up a bit 4. Adjust the float setting. To do this, remove the carburetors (leave the throttle cables attached), remove the bowl and turn the carburetor upside down (fuel will spill). The float should look like this: Adjust as necessary by bending the float support (#37 in Figure 1). Reinstall Installation and idle adjustment 1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns. * Starting using the K68′s (cold weather) 1. Verify fuel flow. Apply choke (pull 52 in Fig1). 2. Using the ticklers (13) allow fuel to enter the bowl until fuel drains from (14) 3. With the ignition off, kick 1 or 2 times 4. Turn ignition on, and as soon as engine is warmed up (maybe sooner) push choke mechanisms to open choke Idle Adjustment (engine running and warm) 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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KAWASAKI TERYX EFI Installation Instructions.

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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Basic Tuning Adjustments 1. The following instructions are for basic fuel tuning. Modes 1,2, & 3 are allowing adjustments to increase and decrease the amount of fuel the engine needs. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning only. DO NOT change modes 4 & 5 when doing basic tuning! 2. To help understand how these modes work, you can think of them as if you were working with a carburetor. 3. Remember each time you push the MODE button you will be advancing to the next mode. Push the MODE button once and you are now in mode 1, push the MODE button again and you are now in mode 2 and so on. You only need to be concerned with modes 1, 2 & 3 for basic tuning. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning ONLY. 4. If you need to go back to the settings that were pre programmed when you purchased the controller, just look at the picture in each mode, the colored square represents where the settings were when you purchased the controller. 5. Looking at the controller you will see eight lights with numbers under them, this is what you need to look at when changing settings. The #1 light on the controller represents the leanest setting. TRINITY RACING DOES NOT TAKE REPONSIBLITY FOR DAMAGES THAT MAY OCCUR DURING OPERATION OF YOUR VEHICLE UNDER IMPROPER JET SETTINGS. IT IS THE FINAL RESPONSIBLITY OF THE OWNER/RIDER TO ADJUST JETTING TO SPECIFIC RIDING CONDITIONS AND ELEVATION BEFORE RIDING. WARNING! 1.877.FAS TOYS 2.Remove both seats 6. Re-install engine cover and seats. 6. Mode 1 green light represents idle & cruise adjustment (i.e. pilot jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button once and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 7. Mode 2 yellow light represents an additional amount of fuel added during acceleration (i.e. needle position). To adjust this setting, push MODE twice and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 12 34 56 7 8 12 34 56 7 8 8. Mode 3 red light represents more fuel being added during full throttle (i.e. main jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button three times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 9. If you are confident about your tuning skills and feel you need to adjust other parameters, see Advanced Tuning. 12 34 56 7 8 Advanced Tuning Adjustments 1. Advance tuning has two modes in which to adjust. They are called mode 4 and mode 5. In basic tuning, you are changing the amount of fuel that the engine receives, but with advance tuning, you will be changing when the fuel will be available. In each mode you can adjust how soon the fuel delivery occurs. 2. Mode 4 yellow light and blue light represent when the fuel delivery is available during partial throttle acceleration. To adjust this setting, push the MODE button four times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. Only the yellow light will be changing.

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KTM ATV 525 XC specification

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Engine ] Pure power for Enduro enthusiasts. The power of the 525 XC is the indisputable benchmark in the ATV Enduro sector. Its acceleration and top speed cast a shadow over all its predecessors. Variable ignition curves and perfect maintenance features like simple valve play adjustment and the removable clutch cover are even further highlights of the XC engine that make the KTM Enduro quads so superior. First Oil Filling for all KTM Engines. [ CarburEttor ] The Keihin carburettor, which has been proven multiple times in racing, with 39 mm and the Throttle Positioning System guarantees a uniform, forceful power delivery in all speed ranges. It ensures an unrivalled response behavior and perfect service-friendliness at all times. [ StartEr ] Packed in a space-saving manner into the free space behind the cylinder head, the small, light electric starter motor is ready for use. It brings every KTM ATV up to speed reliably and comfortably even when racing becomes hectic. [ rEar SuSPENSIoN ] Premium-quality ÖHLINS suspension components specially designed for tough Enduro use are provided as standard – both at the front and the rear. Easy to adjust, they guarantee optimal tuning for the most varied of terrains. Another highlight: the front and rear spring travel of 275 mm and 272 mm respectively is 100 % trend-setting for an Enduro ATV! [ alumINIum SubFramE ] The rear subframe is made of aluminium and is extremely light and easy to remove. [ FramE ] The lightweight, extremely durable frame sets the benchmark in the quad racing segment and is made of high-strength, powder-coated Chromoly steel. [ haNDlEbar ] An ultra-durable tapered aluminium Magura® handlebar comes standard that is four-position adjustable to suit your preferred ergonomics. Further highlights are the functional and individually adjustable operating levers for brake and hydraulic clutch. In addition, the chassis has an integrated mount for a steering damper – available as a PowerPart accessory. [ CurvED raDIator ] Best cooling by means of its curved shape and the resulting maximized surface area. [ rImS / tIrES ] MAXXIS Razr tyres on light, stable DWT aluminium rims. [ ExhauSt ] The powerful XC silencer is made of light-weight aluminium.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON PREMIUM SUSPENSION KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 09-03-2011

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REMOVAL Front Fork Assembly 1. Refer to the XR model section of the service manual and remove the front forks. INSTALLATION Front Fork Assembly 1. Install front forks from kit to motorcycle according to service manual instructions but do not tighten the fork bracket pinch screws at this time. 2. See Figure 1. Measure the distance from the top of upper fork bracket to top of fork assembly. Both sides must be exactly the same and measure 0.388-0.468 inch (9.85- 11.89 mm) above the top fork bracket. Align the adjustment screws inline with the handlebars (see Figure 5). is06083a Figure 1. Fork Installation Height Measurement. NOTE If new pinch screws are not readily available, use a wire grinder wheel to remove all remaining lock patch from original pinch screws, wash screws in clean solvent and dry thoroughly. Apply two drops of LOCTITE® 262 to the first 1/4 in. (6.35 mm) of the end threads. 3. Install pinch screws to upper and lower fork brackets. 4. Verify fork tube installation measurement is 0.388-0.468 inch (9.85-11.89 mm). 5. Tighten pinch screws to 30-35 ft-lbs ( (40.7-47.5 Nm)) See Figure 2. The top edge of reflector should be 1-1/2 inches (38.10 mm) below the lower edge of the bottom fork clamp. 6. Remove the adhesive backing. Place reflector in position and press reflector firmly into place to activate the adhesive. Repeat for reflector on opposite fork. REMOVAL OEM Rear Shock Absorbers 1. Refer to the XR model section of the service manual and remove the rear shock absorbers. INSTALLATION Rear Shock Absorbers 1. See Figure 3. Install the rear shock absorbers according to service manual instructions. The shocks are installed with the external gas reservoir to the rear of the shock absorbers and the thick side of the grommet installed to the frame rail mounts. is06142 Figure 3. Install Thick Side Of Grommet To Frame Rail SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS Front Fork Suspension Adjustment Whenever a wheel is installed and before moving the motorcycle, pump brakes to build brake system pressure. Insufficient pressure can adversely affect brake performance, which could result in death or serious injury. (00284a) Adjust both forks equally. Improper fork adjustment can lead to loss of control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00124c) Compression and rebound adjusting valves may be damaged if too much force is used at either end of the adjustment range. (00237a) NOTES Damping is set at the factory for the average solo rider under normal riding conditions. The rider may make adjustments to compensate for individual riding styles and varying road conditions. Evaluating and changing the rebound and compression damping is a very subjective process with many variables and should be approached carefully. The front and rear preload setting will need to be adjusted for the rider’s weight and cargo. This adjustment should be made before the motorcycle is ridden any distance and after changing the overall vehicle weight (adding saddlebags, etc.). If the preload adjustment is correct, and you have the rebound and compression damping set at the factory recommended points, the motorcycle should handle and ride properly. Changes in the load carried requires changes in the preload setting(s). Carrying less weight than was used for setting up the suspension requires decreasing the amount of preload. Increasing the load carried requires adding more preload. The following tools are needed to make suspension adjust- ments. • 5 mm hex key (front fork preload adjustment tool). • Spanner wrench with extension handle (shock absorber preload adjustment). • Screw driver (front fork damping adjustment). 1. Front fork preload adjustment: a. See Figure 4 and Table 1. Using the 5 mm hex key, turn the preload adjuster counterclockwise until it stops. This is the minimum preload setting. b. Turn the preload adjuster clockwise the recommended amount specified for the rider weight

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Ktm 690 SM/ SMC/ SMR/ Duke Removal and Installation weld slag

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 04-03-2012

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1. Each bike varies with regard to welds and gussets. Review the photos first to get the idea of what needs to be done. 2. These photos may not be your exact model but depict the concept of what must be done. 3. Block the front tire securely before removing the top triple clamp so the tire cannot move at all. See photos. 4. Support the rear tire also, just enough to keep tension on the front tire so the forks stay tight. 5. Warning: Once the triple clamp is loose, the forks can roll away from the bike AND it happens very quickly . 6. The main triple clamp nut adjusts the tension on the steering head bearings. Make note of its tension before removing and do not over tighten the nut. It should be seated just enough to take the play out of the bearing.. 7. The top of the gauge/light cluster is mounted to the top triple clamp. You have to take out 4 self tapping Phillips head screws to remove the gauge pod. There is one connector on the back side of that and then it comes off. Then there are two bolts that need to come out with an 8mm wrench to free the top triple clamp. 8. Loosen the triple clamp pinch bolt under the main nut and forks pinch bolts and remove the top triple clamp, taking note of how tight the main nut is, so you can re-tighten it to the exact amount. Remove the tin bearing shroud (cover) and rubber seal making note of how the seal goes on, (lips face downward). 9. Grease your bearings while you have them exposed. (Keep the grease off the area where our frame bracket mounts!). 10. The goal is to allow the frame bracket to clamp cleanly and squarely around the upper half of the head tube. 11. Review your individual bike’s welding characteristics at the head tube. You’ll notice on the head tube there is a “groove” machined 360 degrees around the head tube. Everything in or above this groove must be clean of welds or slag. If this groove is visible all the way around and no welding slag has extended upward into or past this groove, then you’re installation should be easy. Any welds extending into or above this groove must be filed away, but without changing the clamping area diameter. DO NOT file away the paint on the clamping area if possible. Spend a little more time filing carefully and your bracket will stay tight. 12. Each bike seems to have not only different welds, but slightly different gussets. Evaluate your individual bike to determine the best fit. The bracket must clamp squarely and cleanly to the area just above that groove and yet SIT FLUSH all the way around the diameter of the head tube as per the photo in the lower right corner. Do not allow the bracket to protrude above the seal seating surface. Use a flashlight to see up under the bracket where it’s hitting if it’s not Flush. This bracket has clearance cut into it to clear the backbone of the frame

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KTM KINETO TRACKING MOUNT – MODEL K433 Installation and Removal Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 30-01-2012

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the KTM meets the needs of a wide variety of test range and scientific applications:  On-board operator, or remote analog or digital control  Payloads up to 1200 pounds (unmanned) or 600 pounds (manned)  Mission configuration with four (manned) or six (unmanned) payload positions  Complete turnkey systems available  Detailed installation documentation FIELD-PROVEN RUGGED AND RELIABLE The KTM consistently demonstrates its performance and durability:  Weather tight seals designed to withstand harsh range environments  The KTM’s direct drive axis design delivers smooth, jitterfree tracking to ensure precise Time, Space and Position Information (TSPI)  Self-contained and trailer-mounted, the KTM is quickly and easily deployed via highway and unimproved roads to remote tracking sites  Digital Control System (DCS) that guarentees system reliability WHEN THE RANGES REQUIRED PRECISE AND RELIABLE OPTICAL TRACKING MOUNTS, THEY SELECTED THE BRASHEAR KINETO TRACKING MOUNT MORE THAN 150 TIMES. Recognized Standard for Tracking Systems Worldwide THE KTM DIGITAL CONTROL SYSTEM (DCS) INCLUDES:  High speed communication via an Ethernet interface to provide remote operation  Advanced servo loop control to optimize tracking performance  Built-in error correction to ensure precision tracking accuracy  Versatile chassis architecture that accommodates additional PC104 cards suchas an “Automatic Video Tracker” (AVT) to satisfy specific customer requirements and missions

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KTM EXC Enduro & SX Motocross REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 06-03-2012

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Thanks to a history of competition successes, particularly in off-road racing, KTM motorcycles enjoy a large and loyal following. Established in 1953, KTM (from Kraftfahrzeuge Trunkenpolz Mattighofen where founder, Hans Trunkenpolz, had his engineering works) went through difficult times in the early 1990s. After a takeover, the Austrian company emerged as KTM Sportmotorcycle AG and has gone from strength to strength in recent years. Mainstay of their range are their Enduro and Motocross models, the EXC and SX, and these are covered in the latest new manual from Haynes. Models covered are the 250, 400, 450, 520 and 525 EXC and SX with 4-stroke sohc engines, 2000 to 2007. Information has also been included on the SMR Supermoto versions and MXC/XC derivatives. Haynes Manuals for cars and motorcycles are so popular that 150 million have been sold worldwide. Lay them end-to-end and they would circle the globe at the equator! The new manual begins with essential pre-ride checks, competition prep and routine maintenance tasks before moving on to more major repairs. There are comprehensive, fully illustrated, instructions for overhauling the engine, transmission, brakes, suspension and electrical system. Useful reference pages include colour wiring diagrams, fault-finding charts and a comprehensive section on tools and workshop tips. Because all Haynes Manuals are based on a complete stripdown and rebuild, not only are the procedures written from first-hand experience, but there is information about special tools required for each job, and its complexity, plus Haynes tips for saving time and money. The new Haynes KTM EXC Enduro & SX Motocross Manual is the only complete manual for owners of these motorcycles.

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KTM 4357/ 4860 MX Multi Adjuster WP Suspension manual Disassembly And Assembling

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 13-02-2011

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Disassembly forkleg 12_062 12_079Product Exploded View Disassembly & Assembling Workshop manual 4357 / 4860 MXMA 5 Frontfork 4357/4860 MXMA 02/2002 Clamp the forkleg (axle-clamp) in the vice and let the outer-tube down. Pull the spring downwards… …and place open-end spanner (size 22) on the hydraulic stop. Unscrew the screw-cap. 12_067 12_068 12_069 12_072Product Exploded View Disassembly & Assembling Workshop manual 4357 / 4860 MXMA 6 Frontfork 4357/4860 MXMA 02/2002 Remove the screw-cap from the piston- rod. 12_070 Remove the preload spacers. 12_074 Pull the spring downwards and remove the spanner. 12_075Product Exploded View Disassembly & Assembling Workshop manual 4357 / 4860 MXMA 7 Frontfork 4357/4860 MXMA 02/2002 Remove the spring. 12_076 Remove the adjustment tube with the O-ring. 12_089
Product Exploded View Disassembly & Assembling Workshop manual 4357 / 4860 MXMA 8 Frontfork 4357/4860 MXMA 02/2002 Clamp the axle-clamp in the vice so that the forkleg is at an angle of ±45 degrees. 12_095 Unscrew the compression holder out of the axle-clamp. (size 19) (when the cartridge is rotating with the holder, bend the piston- rod a little bit to the side) 12_096 Drain the oil out the forkleg. 12_094 Product Exploded View Disassembly & Assembling Workshop manual 4357 / 4860 MXMA 9 Frontfork 4357/4860 MXMA 02/2002 Remove holder compression. Caution: oil iscoming out the cartridge. Disassemble the cartridge out the forkleg. 12_097 12_098 12_099 Disassemble the dust-wiper

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HARLEY DAVIDSON TOURING SUSPENSION AIR PUMP KIT OPERATION/ INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-03-2011

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OPERATION 1. Remove cap from air suspension air valve and connect pump by threading the air valve adapter (1) on the pump as shown in Figure 1. When adapter is threaded properly, the current air pressure in the system will be indicated on the gauge of the pump. Do not exceed maximum air pressure for rear suspension. Air components fill rapidly. Therefore, use low air line pressure. Failure to do so may result in possible damage to components. (00165a) NOTES See the motorcycle’s Owner’s Manual or, if installed, the air suspension lowering kit’s instruction sheet for the recommended air pressures. Using pressures outside the recommended loading range will result in a reduction of available suspension travel and reduced rider comfort. 2. To increase pressure, operate the air pump handle (4) until the desired pressure is indicated on gauge (2). Use caution when bleeding air from the suspension. Moisture combined with lubricant may leak onto the rear wheel, tire and/or brake components and adversely affect traction, which could result in death or serious injury. (00084a) NOTE The pressure release button is designed to release pressure slowly. If the button is completely or rapidly depressed, no air will be released. For the best results, depress the pressure release button slowly and only partially. 3. To decrease pressure, slowly depress the pressure release button (3) on the pump until desired pressure is indicated on gauge (2)

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