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Honda Goldwing GL1800 Solid Rear Axle Trike Conversion Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-02-2011

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Specifications Overall Width: 57.75″ Overall Length: 108″ Overall Length w/EZ-Steer 109.5 Wheel Base: 71″ Extended 4.5″ At Rear Axel Wheel Base w/EZ Steer 72.5″ Load Capacity: 500 Lb Tire Size: 205 / 70 / R15 Wheel Size (15″) Offset +35 mm 15x7JJ 4×4.5 Tire Pressure 20 PSI Suspension: “Zero-Flex” Internal Swing Arm utilizing 3 shocks, OEM shock absorber plus 2 coil over shock absorbers. Rear Differential: Champion Lightweight rear axle / differential assembly. Gear Ratio 2.93:1 gear ratio Brakes: Original front plus 2 high performance disc brakes at rear. Storage Capacity: 6.75 cubic feet. 3 full-face helmets and additional storage. Trike Conversion Installation Kit Honda Goldwing GL1800 Champion Trikes Page 7 of 28 Revision 10 4 Removal of Original Parts Most tasks necessary in this guide can be accomplished with the vehicle on its center stand. Secure the center stand to one of the forward crash bars with a ratchet strap to keep vehicle from rolling forward and off the center stand. Be sure that the vehicle is laterally stable as well. Remove the following from the vehicle. See OEM manual for detailed instructions. Items to be retained for return of deposit or re-installation after modification shall be duly noted. • Seat (to be re-installed without modification) • Left and right side covers (to be re-installed without modification) • Battery and battery box (to be re-installed without modification) • Left and right saddle bags • Remove taillight and locking assemblies from saddlebags (to be returned for refund of deposit) • Trunk (to be re-installed without modification) • Left and right passenger foot rests (to be re-installed without modification) • Left and right foot rest under covers (to be modified and re-installed) • Left and right rear crash bars • Saddle bag trunk stay (to be modified and re-installed) • Left and right mufflers (Mufflers only, do not remove decorative covers) • Rear wheel • Left and right pivot bolt covers (to be re-installed without modification) • Reverse resistor (to be relocated) • Swing Arm – Note : Carry out brake system modifications (Section 5) prior to removing Swing Arm. • Note : Upper bolt of mono shock can be removed without removing the fuel tank. • Note : Do not remove actuator hose from actuator pump or shock absorber. Dismounting shock actuator pump will allow more movement of shock absorber when removing swing arm.Trike Conversion Installation Kit Honda Goldwing GL1800 Champion Trikes Page 8 of 28 Revision 10 5 Brake System Modification Note : Modification to the vehicle brake system should be carried out prior to removal of the swing arm. From the manufacturer, your Honda Gold Wing brake system utilizes both front and rear brakes when the foot brake is applied. In order to insure safe operation of your Gold Wing when converted to a Champion Sidecars Trike, the brake system must be modified to isolate the front and rear brake systems from each other. Once modification is complete, four of the six pistons in the front calipers operate only when the hand brake lever is applied. The rear brakes operate only when the foot brake pedal is applied. The diagrams below outline the difference between the GL1800 OEM brake system and the system as modified by the Champion Sidecars Trike Conversion Kit.

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1999-2008 FLHT Series Harley- Davidson Trike Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 04-12-2010

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1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the ¼ – 20 Phillips head screw and Seat. 6. Disconnect negative Battery Terminal. 7. Remove two ¼ – 20 flanged hex nuts from the Stud Plate. Save the Passenger Handrail and two nuts. 8. Remove the Saddle Bags. 9. Remove the Right and Left Side Covers. 10. Remove Inner Tour Pak Molded Liner. 11. Disconnect the Tour Pak wiring. 12. Remove five ¼ – 20 HHCS, ¼ – 20 nyloc nuts, and Aluminum Spacers. 13. Remove Tour Pak from Top Support Tube. 14. Loosen Muffler Clamp on both Mufflers and remove 2 5/16 – 18 HHCS per Muffler. Remove and discard both Mufflers. Save Muffler Clamps. 15. Remove and discard Muffler Support Plates. 16. Remove both ¼ – 20 HHCS and Front Saddle Bag Brackets. 17. Remove the twelve 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS six 5/16 – 18 nuts, and the Left and Right Saddle Bag Guards. 18. Remove the Air Line Junction from the Rear Fender. 19. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness and remove from T-stud Clip.
6 20. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Phillips head screws. Remove the Left and Right Frame Covers. 21. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove and save the Top Tour Pak Support Tube Top. 22. Remove four 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove the Left and Right Rear Saddle Bag Guard Support Bracket. 23. Remove four 5/16 – 18 HHCS. Remove and save the Tour Pak Support Tube Bottom. 24. Remove and discard the Air Valve Assembly Bracket. 25. Remove four ½ – 13 HHCS and washers. Remove and discard both Rear Air Shock Absorbers. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. 26. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 27. Cut and remove Cable ties and un-clamp Wire Harness Loops from the Rear Brake Line along its length, including Clamps on Swing Arm. 28. Remove the 10 – 24 flanged HHCS and Rear Brake Hose Clamp from the Right Rear Fork Bracket. 29. Remove ¼ – 20 SHCS from Rear Stop Lamp Switch Bracket. 30. Remove and discard Banjo Bolt and Crush Washers on Rear Brake Caliper. 31. Remove the Spring Clip and nut from the Rear Axle. 32. Remove Rear Axle and Rear Wheel Spacers. 33. Push Rear Wheel Assembly forward and slip Rear Belt off of the Rear Sprocket. 34. Remove Rear Brake Caliper. 35. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly rearward. Remove one 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS from inside the Rear Fender well. 36. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly forward. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove Rear Fender. 37. Remove and save the two Retaining Washers from the Stud Plate. Remove and save the Stud Plate

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HONDA 450E/ S MOUNTING AND ARS ADJUSTMENT INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 24-12-2011

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MULTI-RATE SPRINGS AND THE ARS SYSTEM Depending on the application dual–rate springs are fitted on the shocks. Dual-rate springs are just that– a spring set with two separate rates. This is done with a short spring stacked on a longer spring. As both springs collapse they produce a soft, or initial, rate. The spring set will maintain this initial rate until the short spring stops compressing. At that point, the spring rate “crosses over” to the stiffer, or final, rate. This multi-rate system allows a soft initial rate for comfort on small bumps, but has the capability of soaking up the big pot-holes and other off road hazards. ARS stands for Adjustable Rate Suspension. ARS is available on some dual-rate spring 4-wheel ATV shocks. ARS differs from spring preload. The ARS system allows the rider to increase or decrease the load-carrying capacity of the shocks by turning a lever. Depending on the application and spring set, the rider can increase the load capacity of the shocks up to 50 percent. The average preloader that makes a half-inch increase in preload will HONDA 450E/S MOUNTING & ARS ADJUSTMENT INSTRUCTIONS Continued on next page. #TRX450 – 5/28/99 #TRX450 – 5/28/99 Fig. 1. Front shock installation. Note that the shock body is at the top with the shaft pointing down. ARS shown is in the unloaded position. Fig. 2. Rear shock mounting with ARS. Position the lever so that it will not come in contact with any vehicle parts around it. The cup can be rotated to reposition the lever if necessary.
increase the capacity of the shocks to only about 5 to 10 percent. ARS allows the shocks to be correct for solo riding, but still handle the increased weight of an added load. ARS can also be employed to stiffen the rates for aggressive riding. The ARS system consists of an indexing lever and a stepped cup that contains the short spring of the dual- rate. The position of the lever in relation to the steps in the cup determines how long the spring set remains on the soft, or initial, spring rate. On most ARS applications, four positions can be selected from full stiff to full soft. Indexing is done in a matter of seconds by rotating the lever or the cup by hand. Indexing the cup to the lever is usually preferable to avoid interference. Adjustment of the ARS system should only be made while the vehicle is unloaded to reduce the load on the springs. NOTE: It is important to make sure that a step in the cup is positioned directly over the tang on the lever. This will prevent damage to the cup and/or lever that can be caused by making partial contact between the tang and a step. In addition, make sure that the lever will not contact any vehicle parts around it, as the suspension moves up. TUNING TIPS—The “softest” setting on the ARS does not mean that the ride will be the most comfortable at that setting. It means that this is the softest spring setting which would be employed on smooth trails or without a load. Excessive suspension bottoming caused by rough conditions or by the addition of a large load will cause a harsh ride when the shock is adjusted to this setting. To eliminate this bottoming, adjust the ARS to the stiffer positions for a more comfortable ride. Hence, sometimes “stiffer is softer.” NITROGEN PRESSURES IN EMULSION SHOCKS

Honda ATV 650 Lift Kit REMOVAL AND Installation

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 14-01-2012

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Place jack under center on the ATV front end and lift until front wheels clear the ground. Be careful to support ATV properly so that it is secure, but so that the A-arms and shocks can droop to full extension. 2. Remove front wheels and shocks. 3. Using a shock spring compressor, compress the spring on the shock and remove the spring retaining ring.
CAUTION: The spring is installed under tension. Failure to use a shock spring compressor could cause loss of control of the spring, which could unload rapidly causing bodily injury. If you do not have a shock spring compressor you should acquire one or take it to a dealer or professional mechanic for installation of the stiffeners. 4. Remove the spring. 5. Insert the smaller front spring stiffener onto the shock with the lip of the spring stop, on the shock, mating into the recessed portion of the spring stiffener. 6. Slide the spring back onto the shock and it should rest on the lip of the spring stiffener.
7. Reattach the spring retaining ring. 8. Repeat steps for the opposite side. Once springs are complete reattach the top of the shock to the top shock mount on the ATV and the spring stiffener will be closest to the A-arm. 9. Take two of the “L” brackets and connect them to the bottom of the shock, the part that connects to the A-arms. 10. There is a top and bottom to the “L” bracket. See the diagram

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1981-1983 Yamaha Virago 750 & 920 Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 11-02-2012

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Start by loosening the rear cylinder down tube bolt located on the top of the old mufflers center collector in front of the rear tire. 2. Remove both of the front cylinder exhaust pipe head nuts and set them to the side for reuse with the MAC exhaust system. 3. Remove the right side passenger’s foot peg. Set the foot peg aside as you will need to reinstall it. 4. Remove the left side passenger’s foot peg. Set this foot peg aside as it will also need to be reinstalled. Note: When you remove this bolt the entire exhaust system will be loose and may fall. You will need to support the old exhaust at this point to keep from injuring yourself. Gently move the old exhaust system side to side to remove it from the rear cylinder down tube. Once the exhaust system is loose from the down tube remove the system from under the Virago. 5. Remove the bolt holding the rear brake pedal in place and remove the brake pedal from the motorcycle. Note: Set both the bolt and the pedal aside for reinstallation. 6. Next loosen the nut on the drivers right foot peg, 1 full turn to start with. Then remove the rear nut on the same foot peg. (Note: The bolt that this nut is on goes completely through the motorcycle. This is the center stand mounting bolt.) Now remove the front nut and set both aside for reuse with the MAC system. 7. Install the center stand stop bracket under the left passenger foot peg. Install this bracket with the 90° bend facing down and towards the rear tire. (Note: Center stand sop bracket in provided in the hardware kit and is approx. 5″ long with a 90° bend in it.) Adjust the bracket by one of the large bolts through the foot peg then through the bracket and then install it into the stock location. Put on one of the washers and a nut and snug up the nut. Lower the center stand until the center stand come in to contact with the bottom of the bracket. Tighten the nut until it will hold the bracket securely. 8. Install the rear down tube clamp onto the rear muffler and install the medium sized nut/bolt/washer onto the clamp just finger tight. 9. Install the (2) small bolts into the channel bracket on the rear muffler. Install the rear mounting bracket onto the two bolts and then install the washers and nuts onto each. Tighten the (2) nuts only slight amount so that you can slide the bracket front to rear to insure that when you install the bracket you position it properly. 10. Slide the rear pipe onto the rear down tube about ¼”to ¾” past the pre-cut slots on the rear muffler pipe. Slightly snug the clamp making sure that the position of the bolt and nut will not interfere with any moving parts. The final position of this bolt can hit the tire if it is not positioned properly. 11. Install the other large bolt into the right passenger and then through the top hole in the rear muffler mounting bracket. Insert the bolt into the stock location and install the washer and the nut. 12. Align the rear muffler and you can then tighten the nuts on the rear muffler mounting bracket, the cylinder down tube and the right side passenger foot peg.
13. Install the front muffler on the rear most mounting bolt of the drivers foot peg and put the stock nut back onto the bolt. Hand tighten the bolt only at this time. Note: Install the nut at this time is only to support the muffler and to insure that the pipe does not fall on the ground while you complete the next step. 14. Lift the front head pipe into position and start the stock nuts onto the studs. It is strongly recommended that you install new exhaust gasket at this time. Note: The new exhaust gaskets are not included in the kit but are available at your local Yamaha Dealer. After gaskets are installed hand tighten the front head pipe. 15. Remove the nut from the drivers foot peg bolt and reinstall the drivers foot peg. Note: Hand tighten only at this time. 16. Finish tightening the nuts on the front head pipes. (Install these nuts according to Yamaha’s Factory specifications.) Once the nuts are tightened on the head pipe you can then tighten the drivers foot peg nuts. 17. Reinstall the rear brake pedal and tighten the bolt that holds it on to factory specifications. 18. Check all of the bolts that you have installed of removed to insure that they are tight. 19. Start the motorcycle and check for any leaks. 20. You are finished with your new MAC Exhaust System.

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Honda 2007-2010 Rancher 420 ATV Rear Bumper Installation

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 22-12-2011

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Honda Rancher 420 ATV Rear Bumper (2007-2010) Installation Instructions 1. Attach top bumper attachments to top rack. 2. Attach the rear bumpers lower attachment point to vertical bars

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HONDA FURY FRONT HEADPIPE W/HEATSHIELD, REAR HEADPIPE / MUFFLER W/HEATSHIELD INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 15-11-2010

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Remove your stock exhaust system and stock exhaust mount. Save the (4) acorn nuts that attach the headpipes to the cylinders for later use during installation. 2. Install exhaust mounting bracket onto outside of frame, where stock mounting bolts were removed, by inserting the supplied M10 x 70 mm bolt into the top mounting hole and the shorter M10 x 45 mm into the lower and thru the frame, see Figure 1. Start threading the supplied M10 Nylock nut onto lower and upper bolts but DO NOT FULLY TIGHTEN. 3. Loosen the right footpeg/floorboard assembly to help provide installation clearance for the front headpipe. 4. Slide the supplied exhaust flange over the front headpipe and bolt to cylinder using stock hardware from Step 1. DO NOT TIGHTEN at this time. 5. Place the supplied 27-61msc clamp onto the lower muffler slip collar then slide the rear headpipe / muffler assembly onto the front headpipe and into the rear exhaust port. Bolt rear headpipe to the rear cylinder using the stock acorn nuts from Step 1. See Figure 2 for clamp orientation. 6. Bolt the muffler assembly to the mounting bracket using the supplied 5/16 bolts. DO NOT TIGHTEN . 7. Make sure the front headpipe is inserted properly into the rear assembly and make sure the pipes are parallel with each other. Fully tighten the exhaust bracket to the frame first, then the front and rear cylinder acorn nuts attaching the exhaust flanges, then the muffler to the exhaust bracket. Then tighten the 27-61msc clamp last. (NOTE: If the muffler clamp is slid past the slots on the slip collar the clamp will not tighten properly.) 8. Unscrew the remaining hose clamps and feed the tail end of the clamp through the clips on the inside of the heatshields, the larger clamps go to the rear of the heatshields where they will rest on the muffler bodies, smaller ones to the front for the headpipes. The screw end of the hose clamp should be accessible for tightening but not visible when heatshields are mounted to the pipes, see Figure 3. 9. To install the front heatshield, first slide the rear portion of the heatshield over the muffler, continue to slowly slide it forward pushing the front of the shield gently into place between the frame and motor (Hint: Spread the hose clamps apart slightly to make it easier to slide them over the muffler assembly and headpipes). Make sure the muffler clamp doesn’t interfere with the heatshields and is aligned as shown in Figure 2. Snug the heatshield clamps but DO NOT TIGHTEN . 10. Install the rear heatshield in the same manor as the front heatshield. Tighten all hose clamps.

HONDA 420 RANCHER 2×4/4×4 2007-2009 CLUTCH KIT INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 22-12-2011

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Remove key from the ignition switch. Remove the side panels from both sides. Remove both foot wells. 2. Drain coolant. Remove the oil drain plug from the motor; if you carefully drain it into a clean container you should be able to reuse it. 3. Disconnect shift motor (on electric shift models only). Remove coolant hoses. 4. Remove the bolts that mount the front differential to the frame, no other parts need to be removed. Carefully slide the front differential towards the front of the machine; you might need to lift up slightly to get the differential to move. Remove the drive shaft. Remove o-ring on output shaft (on motor). 5. Remove the fuel pump. 6. Loosen the front crankcase cover bolts, keep track of each bolt length and location. Slowly remove the crankcase cover. Carefully watch for o-ring shims and dowel pins that may fall out. 7. Unstake the nut holding the clutch on and remove nut. Using Honda tool #07933-HB3000A thread the large part of the tool into the center of the clutch. Tighten the center bolt on the tool while holding the large part of the tool with a wrench. This will pull the clutch off the machine. Place the clutch on a clean work surface. EPI performance.com
8. Using the c-clamps push down slightly on the outside cover and remove the four e-clips. Keeping track of which way they come off, remove the round metal plates one at a time. This will allow you to see the complete spring. Remove one end of each spring using a spring tool or needle nose pliers and then remove springs. Install the EPI springs by inserting the spring into the outer edge first. Using a spring tool or pliers (45 degree bent pliers work well) pull on the spring and insert the end into the hole. Install the metal plates and the e-clips. If you can’t get the plates to sit flat make sure each clutch arm is flat against the bottom plate of the clutch. Occasionally when you put the springs on, the clutch arms will pop up. Slide the clutch into the machine. The Sprague clutch is marked “outside” when installing make sure this is facing out. Torque clutch nut to 87 ft/lbs. 9. Clean the gasket surface on the motor and on the cover. Put a thin layer of Honda Bond or Yamabond semi-drying liquid gasket (or something similar as long as it is semi-drying) on the crankcase cover. Carefully install crankcase cover, do not force cover on. Torque bolts to 9 ft/lbs. 10. Install the fuel pump. 11. Install the o-ring on the output shaft (on motor) and install the drive shaft. Carefully slide the front differential back into place and mount to the frame. Install the coolant hoses. Refill your engine coolant to the proper level according to your owner’s manual. 12. Install the oil drain plug. Refill your engine to the proper level according to your owner’s manual. You can reuse your oil if it is clean and was drained into a clean container. Only use manufactures recommended oil. 13. Be sure to double check coolant and oil levels and to look for any leaks after the machine has run for a few minutes. 14. Go out and ride your machine. If your performance doesn’t seem right double check to make sure everything has been done properly. 15. EPI is constantly testing our products. Sometimes there is a need to contact the user with new technical information. To ensure that you are receiving this information visit our web site EPIperformance.com to register your clutch kit.

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KTM Enduro Engineering Shock Spring Removal And Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010

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1 Place motorcycle on a stand so that the rear wheel is off the ground. 2 Remove the upper shock bolt. (Figure 1) 3 Remove the lower shock bolt. (Figure 2) 4 Remove the shock from the motorcycle by sliding it down and out the right rear side of the bike. (Figure 3) 5 Place the shock upside down in a vice with soft jaws. Loosen the retaining ring lock screw with a 4mm Allen wrench. (Figure 4) 6 Using EE KTM shock wrench #22-300 (Figure 5), loosen the retaining collar enough to provide ¾ clearance between the bottom of the spring and the spring retaining collar. (Figure 6) 7 Push the spring retaining collar down to access the retaining clip. (Figure 7) 8 Remove the retaining clip. 9 Remove the spring retaining collar by sliding it up and off of the shock clevis. (Figure 8) 10 Slide the shock spring up and off of the shock. 11 Slide the new spring onto the shock. It should be sitting on the adjusting collar. 12 Re-install the spring retaining collar by sliding it over the clevis far enough to allow the retaining clip to be installed. 13 Install the retaining clip. Make sure that it is fully seated in the groove. 14 Slide the spring retaining collar up until it bottoms out on the retaining clip. 15 Tighten the spring adjusting collar until the bottom of the spring contacts the spring retaining collar. Turn the spring adjusting collar a couple more turns to put a small amount of pre-load on the spring. 16 Remove the shock from the vice and re-install it on the bike by reversing removal steps. Make sure to torque the upper and lower shock bolts to the manufacturer’s torque spec. 17 Set static and race sag as specified in your owner’s manual. Remember to torque the adjusting collar lock screw to manufacturer’s specification

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HONDA NRX RUNE CALIPER COVERS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Starting on the right side hold the cover in place over the brake caliper. See photo (1), note how the spring when installed wraps around the bleeder screw (1A) at the front of the cover. See photo (2), note how the spring at the rear of the cover is routed behind the brake pad retaining pin. Using one of the springs supplied hook both ends of the spring into the holes at the front edge of the cover. Clean the face of the caliper (area marked “Nissin”) with rubbing alcohol. Peel the backing from the adhesive tape on the inside of the cover. Carefully position the cover in place aligning it with the suspension arm and being sure it is seated flat against the caliper. Press firmly to secure the tape to the caliper. Next stretch the spring over the bleeder as shown in photo (1A). At the rear of the cover route the spring behind the brake pad retaining pin as shown in photo (2A). Hook the spring into the upper hole then using a piece of fine wire or string (dental floss works good) hook onto the open end of the spring as shown in photo (3). Pull the hook into the hole in the cover. Remove the wire or string. Check again to see that the cover is seated on the caliper and that the springs are secure and not interfering with the moving parts of the brakes. 2. Repeat on the left side caliper. Rear Caliper Cover 1. Set the cover in place over the caliper. Notice that you need to hook the top of the cover over the caliper and the location of the two small spring holes at the front and back of the cover. The long spring supplied will attach to the front hole, pass between the caliper housing and the backside of the brake pad, then attach to the rear hole

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