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Aprilia Falco Synchronizing the Cylinder Vacuum

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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Motorcycle cylinders work quite independently compared to automobiles. Separate carburation, intake manifolds, exhaust pipes and sometimes even independent air filters allow the cylinders to be tuned so that one may be making more power than another. This can be due to differences in air flow, temperature, injection, or valve adjustment betwen the cylinders. Periodically, the cylinders should be synchronized. This is usually done by comparing intake manifold vacuum beneath each throttle and trimming the mixture until balanced. Some old-timers will tell you it can be done by ear, listening to the air flow in each carb throat through a tube stuck in your ear. Most modern tuners have switched to mercury sticks. Rigid tubes stuck in a bath of mercury are attached to the vacuum source. The vacuum draws the mercury up the sticks in proportion to pressure difference between the manifold and the atmosphere. In order to smooth out the individual vacuum pulses, a damping device is needed. This is nothing more than a small orifice (pin hole) restriction in the lines, placed close to the manifold with an air reservoir (length of tube) behind it. Because there is no real air flow in the gauges, there is no pressure drop across the orifice. But when the manifold vacuum drops there is a delay before the gauge pressure can bleed off and it appears steady and readable. Other types of vacuum gauges include mercury-less versions (that draw metal rods), or traditional needle, or “clock” gauges. The clock gauges are very fast acting (they are designed that way so you can see engine problems such as sticking valves). You will definitely need a damper if you choose a clock gauge. I would recommend using two side by side gauges for checking cylinder synch. The reason is, the cylinders are not perfectly independent. As one cylinder drops strength, the idle drops, and this will change the vacuum in the second cylinder’s manifold. It takes a bit of fooling around to get a cause-and-effect feel when you are turning the screws. Swapping gauges would make this difficult

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BMW K1100LT Installing Real Cruise Control

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 26-10-2010

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The vacuum reserve canister (VRC) is used to provide adequate vacuum for the cruise control servo unit. It uses the throttle body as a vacuum source and, via the vacuum check valve, stores up vacuum for the servo to use to pull the throttle cable. You can also buy one of these at an auto parts store for about $10-15 but I decided to build my own so I could make one that would fit inside the left front of the main fairing body. If you decide to buy one, make sure you can return it if it doesn’t fit inside the fairing or be prepared to mount it somewhere else like inside the tail cowl. I used 8″ of 2″ diameter PVC tubing because that is the length that would easily fit inside the fairing It is mounted inside the fairing in front of the left “bucket.” I used white PVC tubing but, in hindsight, would use black if possible since it is visible to the rider when mounted in the fairing. I suspect that the cruise control may actually work without the use of the vacuum canister so you might want to try the cruise without a VRC. If you do install the cruise control without a VRC, you’ll want to put a vacuum check valve in the vacuum hose that goes from the throttle body to the cruise control servo unit.
11/30/2005 08:23 PM Installing Real Cruise Control on a BMW K1100 Page 4 of 8 used epoxy for assembling the VRC as it’s my permanent adhesive of choice. Cut an 8″ length of 2″ diameter PVC tubing. Sand the edges. Drill two holes as shown for the check valve and vacuum tee. There’s a vacuum tee in the bags of installation miscellany that come with the cruise control. File the webbing from the right angles before gluing it and the check valve in place. Remember to glue the tee into place before gluing the end caps on. Make sure everything has an airtight seal. I used zip-ties to hold it in place inside the main fairing body in front of the left bucket

Aprilia – General Scottoiler Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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The vacuum connection is the same for the Aprilia RST Futura & Capo Nord models. On the left hand side of the bike (sitting on the bike) are two pipes from the airbox. Cut into one of these pipes & insert the special T-Piece (not included in the Mk 7 kit), as shown left. Then press the Damper Elbow, part number 4 from the Scottoiler kit, onto the third leg of the tee. The vacuum connection on the RSV Mille and Falco models is different from above. For 1998 models, underneath the tank is a vacuum pipe, as shown left. Cut into this pipe, and insert the special T-Piece (not included in the Mk 7 kit). Push the Damper Elbow, part number 4, onto the third leg of the tee. Vacuum connection for 2000 models, there is a rubber bung over a spigot on the inlet tract, as shown left. Remove the rubber bung and replace it with the Damper Elbow, part number 4 from the Scottoiler kit, as shown below. You may need to gently heat the Damper Elbow ease fitting it onto the spigot. Once you’ve fitted part number 4, push the vacuum tubing into the end of the Damper Elbow and route neatly along the bike towards the RMV position, as shown later in this document. The picture on the left shows the vacuum connection on later models of Aprilia Mille, 2004 onwards. Cut the tube shown, and insert the standard tee piece from the Scottoiler kit. Push the vacuum damper elbow, part number 4, onto the third leg of the tee piece, and fit the vacuum tubing into the damper elbow by pushing in securely. Route vacuum tubing along bike to RMV position

KTM 990 SUPER DUKE 950 SUPERMOTO 950 SUPER ENDURO REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 22-11-2010

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Adjusting the position of the compression and rebound damping Rebound damping: -Turn in the adjusting screw 1 in a clockwise direction all the way to the stop. -Turn back the respective number of clicks in a counterclockwise direction. Compression damping, low speed: -Turn in the adjusting screw 2 in a clockwise direction all the way to the stop. -Turn back the respective number of clicks in a counterclockwise direction. Compression damping, high speed: -Turn in the adjusting screw 3 in a clockwise direction all the way to the stop. -Turn back the respective number of clicks in a counterclockwise direction. Adjusting the spring preload NOTE: the spring preload is the difference between the unloaded and preloaded length of the spring. -Tighten the adjusting nut 4 with the special tool T106 until you have the prescribed spring preload. -Tighten the lock screw on the adjusting nut Disassembling the shock absorber -Write down the spring preload. -Write down the rebound and compression damping settings, counting the clicks or number of turns while turning in a clockwise direction. -Unscrew all of the adjusting screws in a counterclockwise direction. -Clamp the upper part of the shock absorber in a vise as shown in the photo, using protective jaws. -Loosen the lock screw 1 (AH 4 mm), loosen the adjusting nut 2 using the special tool T106 3 and relieve the spring. NOTE: mark the position of the lock screw. -Press the spring down with the special tool T101S and pull out the spring retainer 4 . -Remove the washers 5 and spring 6 . 4-2 Repair manual WP Shock absorber 990 Super Duke, 950 Supermoto, 950

Triumph Bonneville Tuning Manual

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 20-11-2010

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1. The Float The float bowl acts as a fuel reservoir to meet engine demand. The float is hinged on a pin in the float boss. It rises and falls with the fuel level in the float bowl. The small metal tang integrated in the plastic float supports the float valve, also known as the float needle. As the fuel in the float bowl rises, the float valve is pushed into the valve seat, until it’s high enough to shut off the fuel flow to the bowl. As fuel is used the level in the bowl drops lowering the float which pulls the float valve from its seat, and fills again. Adjusting the height of the float has a big effect on the mixture as a low or high float level makes it harder or easier for the vacuum to suck fuel into the venturi. Differing float levels cause an imbalance which may be perceived as vibration. 2. The Choke This system is referred to as the choke. But that’s a misnomer. When you pull the choke knob, what you’re doing is retracting a plunger that opens a tube connected to the starter jet, allowing additional fuel to enter the venturi just below the vacuum hose nipple. It supplements the pilot system at start up. 3. The Pilot System The primary purpose of the pilot system is to supply the mixture at idle. It continues to supply fuel throughout the entire throttle range, but after about 1/8 throttle is reached the main system starts to put out more of the total mixture, up to full throttle. By adjusting the idle with the big screw on the left side of the carburettors the position of the butterfly is altered, so exposing one or more of the four small holes that are drilled into the venturi, (leading to the pilot jet) just under the butterfly valve, letting more or less air pass the butterfly. Adjusting the pilot screw that’s under the carburettor varies the amount of air premixing with the fuel before it enters the venturi. 4. The Main System Open the throttle and the cable that’s connected to the butterfly valve turns it from vertical to horizontal, so letting more air through the venturi. This increases the vacuum effect that is transferred up through the vacuum drilling in the slide to the diaphragm valve that leads to the diaphragm chamber. The top chamber is separated from the bottom by a rubber diaphragm. The bottom chamber is open to atmospheric pressure from the airbox. When the vacuum in the top chamber rises enough, the constant ambient pressure of the lower chamber helps the diaphragm valve overcome the downward force of the diaphragm spring, so it rises from the ven- turi. As the diaphragm is raised the needle is pulled out of the needle jet, exposing a thinner portion of the needle taper which allows more fuel to rise into the venturi to meet the increased engine demand. The key parts of the main system are shown in the photo below

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL ULTIMA STYLE ADJUSTABLE SHOCKS MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-03-2011

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ADJUSTING SPRING PRELOAD (STIFFNESS). NOTE: Shocks typically come set at their loosest (softest) setting. Adjustment range is approximately 4 full rotations. Step 1: Loosen preload adjustment locknut. (see fig. 1) Step 2: Using supplied special tool with a 3/8 ratchet, turn adjusting plate clockwise to stiffen preload & counter-clockwise to loosen preload. (see fig. 2) Step 3: Once preload has been set, lock down preload adjusting nut using blue (med strength) thread locker ADJUSTING RIDE HEIGHT. NOTE: Extending shock assembly lowers frame/fender height. Shortening shock assembly will raise frame/fender height. NOTE: Always check clearances during & after adjusting ride height. Step 1: Loosen ride height adjusting locknut. (see fig. 3) Step 2: Rotate end to desired height. Always leave at least 1 inch of threads engaged in the female threaded shaft. (see fig. 4) Step 3: Lock down ride height adjusting locknut using blue (med strength) threadlocker. (see fig. 5) Step 4: After adjusting ride height on both shocks, verify that they are the same length by measuring from their mounting points. (see fig. 6)

HI-4 DUAL FIRE MOTORCYCLE IGNITION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Turn ignition switch off and disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Refer to Figure 3. Remove OE ignition module and wire harness (items 1-4). You will disconnect two wires at the coil (15), a wire going to the VOES (Vacuum Operated Electrical Switch) (18), a black ground wire at the ignition module, and the 3 pin plug (20) that connects to the sensor plate (11). Refer to shop manual for locations. 3. Remove ignition cover plates and gasket (items 5- 9). This will require drilling out two rivets. The rivets will later be replaced with two supplied self- threading screws. 4. In order to remove the sensor plate cable, the cable plug (20) must be removed first. Use needle nose pliers to pull the terminals out of the plug. Then pull the cable through the exit hole at the bottom of the timing cover. 5. Note location of sensor plate (11). There is a V notch in the sensor plate used for alignment. When you install the HI-4, you should align the V notch in the same location. This should set the timing close enough to start the engine. Remove and save the two standoffs and washers (10). Remove the sensor plate (11). HI-4 INSTALLATION Refer to Figure 4. The HI-4 requires use of the OE timing rotor P/N 32402-83 (used only on 1985 and newer models). If you have an older model or are not sure, check the rotor (9) for the correct part number. For models prior to 1980, use the supplied 10-32 x ¾”bolt and washer to mount the rotor. 1. Install the HI-4 system in place of the OE breaker or sensor plate. Rotate the HI-4 about 90 degrees to give better access to the cable exit hole. Install the HI-4 first, then push the cable through the hole. On some early models it may be necessary to enlarge the wire harness exit hole in the gear cover. Align the V notch on the HI-4 same as the OE plate you removed. Use the OE standoffs to secure the HI-4. You must use lockwashers under the standoffs for proper clearance between the HI-4 and cover plate. Do not fully tighten the standoffs until the timing has been set. 2. Route the HI-4 wire harness along the frame rails up to the coil. Make sure that harness will not be chafed or burned by exhaust heat. Secure harness with tie wraps. Do not install timing cover. HI-4 HOOKUP Crimp terminals and hardware are supplied for your convenience. Use the ring terminals for coil hookup. Use male-female quick disconnects for connections to the tach and vacuum switch (VOES). Tape up any unused wires. 1. Circuit Breaker Cover Screws (2) 2. Circuit Breaker Cover 3. Circuit Breaker Cover Gasket 4. Breaker Plate Screws (2) 5. Breaker Plate Screw Lockwashers & Washers (2 each) 6. Retainer (1971 to early 1972) 7. Circuit Breaker Cam Bolt 8. Breaker Plate Assembly 9. Breaker Cam 10. Advance Assembly 11. Gear Case Cover 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Damage will result if the brown tach wire comes in contact with +12V. Figure 1. Harley-Davidson®OE Points System
9000-4002A REV A 3 2/05 1. Identify switched +12 volt wire and tach wire (if equipped) going to the coil. Refer to your service manual, or reconnect the battery and use a test light or voltmeter. The switched +12 volt wire will be hot when the ignition key is turned on. 2. Refer to Figure 5. Connect the HI-4 red wire and switched +12 volt wire to Coil positive. 3. The HI-4 white wire is not used and should be taped. 4. Connect the HI-4 black wire to the Coil negative terminal. 5. Connect the HI-4 green wire to the vacuum switch (Figure 3, item 18), if used. 6. Connect the HI-4 brown wire to the tach wire, if equipped with tach. Tape up if unused. 7. The HI-4 is grounded via the timing housing; a separate ground connection is not required. 8. Reconnect battery ground cable. Verify proper ground connections to the frame and engine. VOES HOOKUP The OE vacuum switch (VOES) is normally an open circuit. Above 3-5 inch-Hg vacuum, the VOES closes and grounds the vacuum input on the OE ignition module. This increases the total advance generated by the OE ignition module. Vacuum advance improves part throttle 17 16 1. Cover Screws (2) 2. Ignition Timer Cover 3. Ignition Module 4. Timer Plate Screws (2) 5. Washers (2) 6. Screws & Washers (2 each) 7. Shield 8. Sensor 9. Trigger Rotor Bolt 10. Timer Plate 11. Trigger Rotor 12. Advance Assembly 13. Gear Case Cover 14. Ignition Coil 15. Spark Plug Wires (2) 16. Ignition Coil Terminal (FX) 17. Ignition Coil Terminal (FL) 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Most motorcycle coils do not have terminals marked. Use either terminal for Coil+ (positive) and the other one for Coil- (negative). Warning: The HI-4 (8-1100) Dual Fire ignition will not work with 2 plugs per head, dual coil application. Damage will result if attempted. Use the HI-4 (8-2100) single fire ignition for 2 plugs per head applications

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2005-2007 KTM 5018 DCC 5018 SXS 5018 SMR WP SHOCK ABSORBER REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 13-02-2011

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liter fuel consumption is equivalent to approx. 15 operating hours Check the bearing in the shock absorber top / replace if necessary Check the piston rod on scratches / leakage Check the static sag – before riding Check the spring Check the bump rubber Check the O-ring of the spring retainer / replace if necessary Complete maintenance of the shock absorber 10 hours 65 liter 20 hours 130 liter 30 hours 200 liter 40 hours 260 liter 50 hours 325 liter 60 hours 400 liter 70 hours 455 liter 80 hours 520 liter 90 hours 600 liter 100 hours 665 liter Adjusting the position of the compression and rebound damping Rebound damping: -Turn in the adjusting screw 1 in a clockwise direction all the way to the stop. -Turn back the respective number of clicks in a counterclockwise direction. Compression damping, low speed: -Turn in the adjusting screw 2 in a clockwise direction all the way to the stop. -Turn back the respective number of clicks in a counterclockwise direction. Compression damping, high speed: -Turn in the adjusting screw 3 in a clockwise direction all the way to the stop. -Turn back the respective number of clicks in a counterclockwise direction. Adjusting the spring preload NOTE: the spring preload is the difference between the unloaded and preloaded length of the spring. -Tighten the adjusting nut 4 with the special tool T106 until you have the prescribed spring preload. -Tighten the lock screw on the adjusting nut. Recommended periodic maintenance and inspection of the 5018 SXS/SMR Shock absorber

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Yamaha TDM900 Installing and removal the Vacuum Actuator

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 28-12-2011

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Attach the cable adjuster to the bracket. Position the adjuster so that it is screwed all the way in. Do not tighten the lock nuts on the adjuster yet. • Route the new ‘carburettor’ cable around and out the RHS of the bike under the frame rail as shown in the following photos. Installing the Vacuum Actuator • Mount the actuator on the RHS fairing support using the bracket provided and two bolts, nuts and flat washers. The mounting bracket fits on the inside face of the fairing bracket. The small plate fits on the outside and clamps the actuator to the faring frame.

YAMAHA YZF-R1P YZF-R1PC SPECIFICATIONS AND OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 24-11-2010

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GASOLINE IS HIGHLY FLAMMABLE: a. Always turn the engine off when refueling. b. Take care not to spill any gasoline on the engine or exhaust system when refueling. c. Never refuel while smoking or in the vicinity of an open flame. 2. Never start the engine or let it run for any length of time in a closed area. The exhaust fumes are poisonous and may cause loss of consciousness and death within a short time. Always operate your motorcycle in an area that has adequate ventilation. 3. Always turn the engine off before leaving the motorcycle unattended and remove the key from the main switch. When parking the motorcycle, note the following: SAFETY INFORMATION 1 1-6 a. The engine and exhaust system may be hot, therefore, park the motorcycle in a place where pedestrians or children are not likely to touch these hot areas. b. Do not park the motorcycle on a slope or soft ground, otherwise it may fall over. c. Do not park the motorcycle near a flammable source, (e.g., a kerosene heater, or near an open flame), otherwise it could catch fire. 4. When transporting the motorcycle in another vehicle, make sure that it is kept upright. If the motorcycle should lean over, gasoline may leak out of the fuel tank. 5. If you should swallow any gasoline, inhale a lot of gasoline vapor, or allow gasoline to get into your eyes, see your doctor immediately. If any gasoline spills on your skin or clothing, immediately wash the affected area with soap and water and change your clothes 1. Fuse box (page 6-40) 2. Front fork compression damping force adjusting screw (page 3-19) 3. Front fork rebound damping force adjusting screw (page 3-19) 4. Front fork spring preload adjusting bolt (page 3-18) 5. Front brake fluid reservoir (page 6-31) 6. Shock absorber assembly spring preload adjusting ring (page 3-20) 7. Shock absorber assembly compression damping force adjusting screw (page 3-21) 8. Owner’s tool kit (page 6-1) 9. Shock absorber assembly rebound damping force adjusting screw (page 3-21) 10. Engine oil drain bolt (page 6-14) 11. Engine oil filter cartridge

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