air compressor systems mail

You search Auto repair manual PDF air compressor systems mail, if there are search results will appear below. If search results do not exist, please search by others keyword.



  air compressor systems mail Direct Download speed 5282 Kb/s

  air compressor systems mail Full Version speed 6162 Kb/s



Victory Freedom Engines Installation Instructions for S&S Air Cleaner Kit

0

Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 31-10-2010

download
1-Locate and remove the Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IATS) from the stock Polaris Victory air box. Locate the new position for the IATS on the bottom of the S&S air cleaner. Push the IATS in the lower air cleaner cover and turn1⁄ 4 turnin either direction, make sure you feel it lock into place. Inspect from the inside of the air cleaner to ensure that the barbs are locked into place. See Picture 1. 2-Using the stock Polaris Victory air box gasket (PN 5811908) and S&S supplied (Qty 4) M6 fasteners, assemble the lower air cleaner cover to the throttle body using 243 Blue Loctite®on the treads. Torque the M6 fasteners to 72-96 inch pounds. 3-Position the S&S pre-formed air filter onto the lower air cleaner cover ensuring that it fits into the machined groove. 4-Install the top air cleaner cover on top of the filter ensuring that it fits into the machined groove. 5-Make surethat the filter is situated in the machined grooves on both the top and bottom air cleaner covers. 6-Using 243 Blue Loctite on the threads of the S&S supplied (Qty 3) M6 fasteners tighten down top air cleaner cover evenly until seated. Finish torque the fasteners to 72-96 inch pounds. Now you’re ready for breather hose and barometric pressure hose routing. 7-Locate the S&S supplied 3⁄ 16 “reinforced hose and clamps. Push one end of the hose on the 3⁄ 16 “brass barb in the bottom air cleaner cover and slide clamp up around the end of the hose. The other end of the hose is for the Barometric Pressure Sensor (MAP). Route the hose towardthe back of the engine over the top of the rear rocker cover. 8-Remove the MAP sensor from the stock Polaris Victory air box. Remove the orange rubber gasket from the MAP sensor. Slide the S&S supplied clamp over the 3⁄ 16 “rubber hose that leads to the air cleaner. Push the barbed end of the MAP sensor into the 3⁄ 16 ” rubber hose and slide clamp up to the end of the hose around the barb. A small amount of lubricant may be applied to the barb on the MAP sensor to make installation easier. 2 S&S Air Cleaner Assembly 41-0021 (Calibration cardnot shown) Picture 1 CAUTION WARNING WARNING Plastic barb locked in recess.
9-Assemble and install breather hose as follows: A-Cut the stock Victory®hose on the straight section just behind the 90 degree bend as shown in Picture 2 . B-Slide an S&S supplied 1⁄ 2 “hose clamp over the modified stock breather hose. C-Install the S&S straight barb in Victory breather hose and position a hose clamp around hose end. D-Slide the 90-degree end of breather hose over the brass barb on the air cleaner cover and slide hose clamp in place. E-Position straight end of the S&S breather hose over the 1⁄ 2 “barb to connect to the Victory hose. Slide clamp over connection. F- See Pictures 3 and 4 for breather hose and barometric pressuresensor hose installation positions. NOTE: S&S breather hose can be cut for best fit

Incoming search terms:

HONDA VTX1300 AIR HORN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

0

Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-01-2011

download
1. Remove the rider and passenger seats, left chrome side cover & original horn located at the top of the radiator. 2. Locate the supplied black horn mounting bracket and supplied smaller hose clamp. Notice the slight twist in the bracket. Using 2 adjustable wrenches or a vise and one wrench remove the twist from the bracket. Route the hose clamp thru the bracket. (As shown in photo 1A) 3. Install the bracket on to the left frame tube, (As shown in photo 1A) and tighten securely. Bolt the supplied horns to the bracket using the supplied bolt, lock washer and nut, (As shown in photo 1) and tighten securely. Install the supplied trumpet covers (As shown in photo 1B) by flexing the spring clips over the trumpets. Check that they fit securely. If not remove covers, make sure the center screw is tight and bend spring clips in towards center of covers and re-install. Using a blade screwdriver pry the two supplied hoses with the “Y” connector off of the air horns cut a new piece of hose 3 ½” long from the hose and replace the short hose on the “Y”. Re-install the “Y” hose assembly with the short hose going on the long or upper trumpet. (See photo 1C) Re-route the original horn wires. (As shown in photo 1D) 4. From the supplied wire cut 2 pieces 28″ long. Strip ¼” of insulation from both ends. Crimp 2 supplied male terminals to one end and 2 supplied female spade terminals to the other end. Plug the male ends into the original horns wires. (As shown in 1D) Attach the remaining air hose to the “Y”. Tape the hose and wires together every 6-8″ using electrical tape to make routing easier and neater. Route the wires and hose up under the fuel tank, over the cylinder heads coming out between the frame rails at the rear of the fuel tank. (See photo 2A) Locate the supplied relay and plug the 2 wires from the original horn onto terminals 85 & 86 on the relay. (See wiring diagram on back of last page of instructions) This will be the 2 outer terminals that are parallel to each other. Locate the supplied fuse, holder & wire assembly. Crimp a supplied fork terminal to one end and a supplied female spade to the other. Attach the spade terminal to one of the remaining outer relay terminals. (#30 or 87 on wiring diagram) Remove the 3 Phillips screws from the battery top cover. Remove the cover and attach the fork end of the fuse wire to the positive (+) terminal. Re-install the battery cover. 5. Cut a wire 9″ long and strip ¼” insulation from each end, crimp a fork to one end and a female spade to the other. Attach this wire to the compressors negative (-) terminal. Cut another wire 18″ long and strip both ends. Crimp a female spade to both ends. Attach this wire to the compressor positive (+) terminal. Route the air hose out under the left side cover as shown in photo (3). Hold the compressor in place against the frame tube. Note: Looking at the large end of the compressor the space between the hose fitting and the bolt mounting flange forms a “V” shape. This is where the compressor should rest against the frame. Next loop the hose around to the compressor hose fitting and trim the hose to the desired length. Attach the hose to the compressor. Secure the compressor to the frame using 2 large supplied cable ties as shown. 6. (See photo 3A) Attach the compressor negative (-) wire to the bolt on the frame (As shown in photo 3B) Route the compressor positive (+) wire along the side up to the relay and attach to the remaining outer terminal 87 or 30. Cable tie the relay in place. (As shown in photo 2B) Use several of the supplied short cable ties to secure the compressor wires to the air hose (As shown in photo 3) as wells as any other loose wire or hose.

Incoming search terms:

Air Shock Installation Instructions

0

Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

download
Air HoseInstallation. Choose the most convenient loca- tiononyour motorcycle for the air fill valve. Drilla 5/16″hole and install the air fill valve as shown in Figure 3orsecure air fill valve to frame tube. 2. Keep hose ends clean during installation because dirt can cause air leaks. 3. Install hose connector, tube clamp and two O-rings onto one end of the air hose (See Figures4&5) Apply rubber lubricant (soap solution, not oil) to the O-rings to ease installation on the air hose& into the shock absorber inlet. Plastic connector should just bottom on fitting. Do not overtighten! The function of the nut is to hold everything together in place, the O- rings do the sealing. Fin- gertightenonly (10 in/lb maximum). 4. After routing the air hose, trim the length to fit air fill valve. Install hose connector, tube clamp, and twoO-rings onto end of hose (See figures 4&5). Lubricate as above and assemble to air fill valve. Use the same procedure formating hose. Important —leaveasmall amount of slack in hose near shock absorber to allow for the slight move- mentofthe shock. Caution! Do not install hose near ex- haustsystem, battery or any other sharp edges or seat movement. Keep hoses clear of moving parts such as wheels or suspension components. Do not allow hoses to have excess slack and sag below the motorcycle. The hoses could catch on road surfaces or debris and could be damaged while the motorcycle is in motion. 5. If necessary the air hose can be secured along the motorcycle’swiringharness with tie-wraps. 6. Testing: Inflate system to 50 psi. Apply soapy water solution to all connections and check for air leaks. If there are any leaks, disconnect the suspected fitting and check for dirt or damage to the air line or the O-rings. Remove any dirt or foreign matter, re-lubricate the O-rings and reinstall. If unable to locate the leak, remove rubber boot from shocks and submerge pressurized components under water (in- cludingT-Valve) and check for leaks. If you cannot solve the air leak problem, please contact our technical staff for assistance

2009 Kawasaki ULTRA 250X/ 260X FUEL INJECTION CONTROLLERS And REGULATORS INSTALLATION MANUAL

0

Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

download
The R&D high performance Air Filter Kit will improve acceleration and top speed performance by increasing air flow and reducing air temperatures that enter directly into the Ultra 250X’s air plenum box area. The O.E.M. air plenum box on the Ultra 250X is a great design that will flow plenty of air. However, the air that feeds the plenum box is heated by the engine. R&D has created an easy to install “flat filter” that installs directly in place of the large center access inspection cover located directly under the main glove box. The R&D Flat Air Filter insert will allow unrestricted fresh and cool air to enter the air plenum box area which will add power you can feel and a nice high performance tone. The R&D Performance Filter Kit also features two filters, one for each of the surge and blowoff protections valves. The O.E.M. surge valve recycles compressed hot air back into the air box plenum at idle and under deceleration conditions. The R&D surge and blowoff valve filter kit removes the air recycling hoses which will keep the hot air from entering the air plenum box reducing the engines intake air temperatures. The R&D Ultra 250X Air Filter Kit offers great performance tips on how to remove the restrictive air vent hoses which will further reduce the under seat ambient air temperatures. The R&D Filter system does not remove or alter the O.E.M. plenum box in any way, therefore there are no questions to be answered regarding water ingestion

Incoming search terms:

Carbureted vs. Fuel Injected Systems

0

Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 25-10-2010

download
fuel injection (FI) systems have been around since the 1950′s and became widely used in cars during the 80′s. By the 1990′s all cars sold in the United States were equipped with FI systems, and though motorcycle manufacturers have included FI systems with some models as early as 1982, it isn’t until recently that the industry has seen wide spread use of FI. Since a lot of people come into my shop with questions about FI, I thought I would point out some of the differences between FI and carbureted systems as well as the benefits and disadvantages of both. A carbureted system is a mechanical system using air pressure to control the flow of fuel through the system. There are three basic parts in a carburetor, the throttle valve, the venturi and the float bowl. The throttle valve controls the amount of air that flows into the throat of the carburetor also known as the venturi which is simply a tapered hole through the carburetor body. As the venturi narrows, air moving through it is forced to speed up creating low pressure inside the carburetor. In a siphoning effect as the air tries to equalize the pressure, fuel is drawn in from the float bowl mixing with the air before entering the engine. The wider open the throttle valve, the more air will flow, drawing more fuel. A number of circuits are built into the carburetor in order to control the amount of air/fuel being drawn into the engine. In this context a circuit refers to a fuel passageway as opposed to an electrical circuit. In fact, nothing electrical controls fuel delivery in a carbureted system, it is all based on fluid flow, vacuum and hydraulics. The different circuits represent various throttle positions such as idle, partially open and fully open, and each of these circuits can be tuned to modify the efficiency of fuel delivery to the system. Fuel injection (FI) systems, on the other hand, rely on an electronic fuel pump to deliver fuel. The fuel pump delivers fuel at around 50psi as opposed to carbureted systems at normal atmospheric pressure of about 15psi. When the fuel reaches the injectors, the higher pressure allows much finer atomization (creating mist) of the fuel. The injectors then spray the atomized fuel into the intake manifold in a uniform conical pattern. The uniform pattern and fine atomization of the fuel spray increase the efficiency in which it is burned

MOUNTAIN BIKE AIR SHOCK SET-UP AND TUNING GUIDE

0

Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 01-12-2010

download
DETAILED SET-UP 2. Installing Air Pressure – Remove the air cap from the Schrader valve on the end of the shock body. Attach the pump to the Schrader valve. Some people damage their pumps by screwing them on too far. As soon as the gauge registers pressure, screw 1/2 turn more and pump to the desired level. Use the release button on the pump to reduce air pressure. The hiss you hear when unscrewing the pump is only the air from the pump and not from the shock! Likewise, when you install the pump again, you will also hear a hiss as air from the shock fills the pump and reduces the registered pressure you previously installed. All perfectly normal when pressurizing the shock! After removing the pump, be sure to reinstall the Schrader valve cap. If the shock does not dampen properly after pressurizing, the air pressure may have been lost during pump removal as a result of a worn pump fitting o-ring that needs replacement. Do not ride the bike until the shock is properly pressurized. 3. Main Air Spring Pressure Adjustments – Air Spring adjustments are made by inflating or deflating the main air spring chamber. Since your IFP air pressure adjustment (outlined above) also affects your starting spring force, you should always adjust your IFP pressure before adjusting the main air spring pressure. You can refer to the online Quick Start guide at: www.progressivesuspension.com/literature.html for accurate main air spring pressure and sag settings matched to your bike model and body

Triumph Bonneville America And Speedmaster The Freak Installation Instructions and Parts List

0

Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

download
INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs

Incoming search terms:

HARLEY DAVIDSON TOURING SUSPENSION AIR PUMP KIT OPERATION/ INSTALLATION MANUAL

0

Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-03-2011

download
OPERATION 1. Remove cap from air suspension air valve and connect pump by threading the air valve adapter (1) on the pump as shown in Figure 1. When adapter is threaded properly, the current air pressure in the system will be indicated on the gauge of the pump. Do not exceed maximum air pressure for rear suspension. Air components fill rapidly. Therefore, use low air line pressure. Failure to do so may result in possible damage to components. (00165a) NOTES See the motorcycle’s Owner’s Manual or, if installed, the air suspension lowering kit’s instruction sheet for the recommended air pressures. Using pressures outside the recommended loading range will result in a reduction of available suspension travel and reduced rider comfort. 2. To increase pressure, operate the air pump handle (4) until the desired pressure is indicated on gauge (2). Use caution when bleeding air from the suspension. Moisture combined with lubricant may leak onto the rear wheel, tire and/or brake components and adversely affect traction, which could result in death or serious injury. (00084a) NOTE The pressure release button is designed to release pressure slowly. If the button is completely or rapidly depressed, no air will be released. For the best results, depress the pressure release button slowly and only partially. 3. To decrease pressure, slowly depress the pressure release button (3) on the pump until desired pressure is indicated on gauge (2)

KAWASAKI VOYAGER AIR HORN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

0

Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 27-12-2010

download
1. Remove the false fuel tank cover to expose the battery. Remove the right hand lower leg fairing. (4 phillips screws). Unplug the stock horn and remove the (2) 10mm bolts securing it to the frame. 2. See photo #1 using the stock horn bolts attach the black horn mounting bracket and the white ground wire supplied as shown. Next locate the relay supplied. Plug the stock horn wires into the relay terminals #85 & #86. (see wiring diagram on back side of instructions) 3. Attach the air hose to the compressor air outlet fitting. Attach the short red wire supplied to the compressors positive (+) terminal and the white wire installed earlier to the compressors ground (-) terminal. As shown in photo #2. Attach the compressor to the frame with the hose clamp provided. Note: position the top of the compressor as shown touching the bottom of the horn mounting bracket and approximately 1 Ω” to the rear of radiator and shroud. Also the air hose and fitting should be in front of the frame tube with the hose routed inside the hose clamp without pinching the hose. Attach the red wire from the compressor to one of the relays remaining outer terminals #30 or #87. Attach the remaining long red wire (supplied) to the remaining relay terminal #30 or #87. Secure the relay to the frame with a cable tie supplied. Route the red wire up to the battery positive (+) terminal. Locate the fuse wire assembly provided. Attach the fork end of the fuse wire to the battery positive (+) terminal. Cut the red wire to the desired length, strip the end and crimp to the fuse assembly. Turn on the ignition and press the horn button, you should hear the compressor motor run. Re-install the false fuel tank lid. Re-install the right lower leg fairing while routing the air hose out next to the black horn mounting bracket 4. See photo #3, Bolt the horn set to the black mounting bracket using the 5/16 x æ”bolt, washer and lock washer provided. Trim the air hose to length if necessary and attach the air hose to the horn assembly. Install the trumpet covers. (see instructions enclosed with covers) Turn on the ignition and test the horns

Honda GL1800 Front Mount Air Horn Installation Instructions

0

Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 23-12-2010

download
1. Place the motorcycle on the centerstand. 2. Remove the left side cover (painted) to expose the battery. Remove the left plastic engine cover (chrome) . Remove the lower center fairing cowl or spoiler; there are 2 pull pin rivets and 6 allen screws holding this panel in place. Drop the panel down and slide it out to the right or left. 3. Horns and Mounting Bracket: Attach the large “L” shaped bracket with the split clamp to the engine guards as shown in photo #1. NOTE: Make the screws snug only! Install the horn set onto the “L” bracket using the 2 allen screws provided, tighten securely. Align the horn set to be level and to have clearance between the fairing as shown in photo #2, tighten securely. 4. Compressor: Remove the stock left hand horn and loosely re-install the 12mm mounting bolt (see photo #4A). Next as shown in photo # 3, to the compressor attach the air hose, the short red wire to the (+) positive terminal and the white wire to the (-) negative. The mounting bracket should be bolted to the compressor as shown. Install the compressor assembly as shown in photo #4 onto the 12mm bolt and tighten securely. Note! It you may need to adjust the angle or bend of the bracket for a good fit. Try to maintain at least a one-inch clearance between the exhaust header pipe and the compressor, wires and air hose. 5. Relay and Wiring: Attach the red wire from the compressor to the relay terminal 30 (see wiring diagram). Attach the long red wire to the relay terminal 87. Attach the stock horn wires to the remaining terminals 85 & 86 it does not matter which wire goes to which of these two terminals. Attach the white ground (-) wire from the compressor to the lower cowl-mounting bolt as shown in photo # 4B. Cable tie the relay in place as shown in photo #4C. Route the long red wire up and back over the left side of the engine to the battery, This is easiest done using a stiff piece of wire (a coat hanger works good) with a small loop bent at one end. Push the wire from rear of the engine towards the front. Attach the red wire with electrical tape and pull the wire back towards the rear of the engine. Route the wire back to the battery (+) positive terminal, cut the wire to the desired length, strip back insulation 3/8″ crimp on the fuse holder provided and attach to the battery (+). Replace the side covers Route the air hose as shown in photo #5 so as not to kink it or be less than 1″ from the exhaust, then over the front of the engine, up and out to the horns just behind the engine guards, trim to the desired length and attach to the “Y” fitting. Using a lighter or match, heat seal or melt the end of the hoses braided cover to prevent it from fraying. Turn on the ignition and test the horns

Incoming search terms: