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Yamaha V-Star 1100 Needle/ Jet Kit REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUALS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-12-2011

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To install this needle and jet kit: • Remove carburetors from the engine per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Note: Always perform internal carburetor work in a clean area. • Remove the vacuum slide from each carburetor. • Remove the OEM needle, spacer and washers, noting order of assembly. (Note; the washers are used as shims to raise the needle, each is equivalent to ½ clip position, use these to fine tune the needle) • Counting from the top to the bottom, install the new Baron needle clip on groove #4 of the replacement Baron adjustable needles. The top is the blunt end of the needle. • Reinstall the OEM spacer and washers as shown in the figure below. • Reinstall the vacuum slides along with the diaphragm spring and reattach the diaphragm covers Note: Verify that the slides maintain their full range of movement! • Drain the fuel from the float bowls and remove the bowl covers. • Remove the OEM main jets and replace them with Baron’s supplied Mikuni main jets. Install the “base setting” main jets as indicated above. NOTE: V-Star 1100 carburetion runs staggered jetting! Make sure the front cylinder’s carburetor gets the larger main jet (numerically), and the rear cylinder’s carburetor gets the smaller main jet . Important! Extra jets have been included in your kit. These will help you fine-tune the carburetors for changing conditions. These conditions include climate and weather patterns in your area as well as exhaust equipment on your motorcycle. Barons determines the jet and clip recommendations that best suit your average riding conditions based upon information supplied to us at the time of your order. Changes in weather, altitude or modifications to your exhaust system may require jets other than those supplied. • Thoroughly clean the inside of the float bowls prior to reinstalling them. 311 #1 Industrial Way – Fallbrook, CA 92028 – USA Phone: (760) 731-1200 Fax: (760) 731-1284 E-mail: tech@baronscustom.com Website: www.baronscustom.com Included in this kit: (4)Mikuni main jets #107.5, 110, 112.5, 115, (2) titanium needles, (2) clips, (8) cap-head allen screws Tools required: 3-4-5 mm allen wrenches, 10&12 mm sockets, 10mm end wrench, phillips & flat screwdrivers, pliers, drill. Revision 4.0 • Reassemble the carburetors by reversing the order of above steps. Use the new supplied cap head Allen screws in place of the OEM Phillips head screws for the float bowls. • Locate the fuel mixture screws – they will either be a screw head or a brass plug. If it is a screw head, skip to step c . If you see a brass plug with a small hole in the center, proceed as follows: a. With a 5/32″ drill bit, carefully and slowly drill through the fuel mixture plugs

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Harley Davidson Motorcycles Hot Grips Installation Manuals

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-02-2012

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End weights or other need to open the ends: You may drill out the outboard ends of the grips for installation of end weights or other purpose, if you use a fine tooth hole saw and do not go larger than the handlebar’s inside diameter. We have molded in a visual guide on the grip’s ends, and we recommend 7/8″ or at most 1″ diameter and be sure to center drill carefully. DO NOT use a hacksaw or you will destroy the grip, because there are resistance wires molded into the grip outboard of the handlebar diameter. Some Harley throttle sleeves are molded with raised plastic ribs or ridges to help hold the original Harley grip in place, and these will mate up with four (4) of our internal ribs by sliding our heated handgrip over the sleeve. HOWEVER, there are two axial ribs, which go circumferentially around the throttle sleeve as illustrated below, and they may have to be carefully removed with a knife of razor blade. They must be trimmed off with a file or razor knife until the Hot Grips slides over them. Do not force the Hot Grips over the ridges as the grip cannot stretch and will be damaged if forced on. These Hot Grips® have a heat output of 8 watts on “low” and 15 watts on “high” per grip. As a pair they will consume 20 watts of electrical power on “low” and 30 watts on “high”. They consume more than 8 x 2 on “low” because the resistor consumes a little

Dazon Raider Classic 150 (Oil-cooled & Internal Gearbox): Service Manual (single/ double-seat)

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Filed Under (Dazon) by admin on 30-11-2010

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1.2.1 Fuel Please use the gasoline of SAE 90# or above. Also we recommend you to use the unleaded gasoline. 1.2.2 Engine Oil Please use the high-quality engine oil of SAE 10w/30SF. 1.3 Break-in Procedure For your first 2 hours of riding, don’t exceed 2/3 throttles. Vary the engine speed for the first 5 hours. Never hold the engine at full throttle for long periods of time. Raider-Classic 150 (Oil-cooled&Internal Gearbox): Service Manual (single/ double-seat) EEC Version;3.0 Feb..2005 5 1.4 Specifications DIMENSIONS SINGLE-SEAT / DOUBLE-SEAT Overall Length 2330mm / 2300mm Overall Width 1310mm / 1460mm Overall Height 1425mm / 1425mm Wheelbase 1475mm / 1520mm Ground Clearance 200mm VIN Accord with GMVR A01-01 Statutory Plate& Safety Labels Accord with GB 7258-1997 ENGINE Model DZ1P57QMJ Type Oil-cooled, single cylinder, 4-Stroke Engine Capacity 150cc Displacement 149.6ml Bore X Stroke 57.4mm X 57.8mm Max Power 7.0kw or 7000r/m Max Torque 10.0N.m or 6500 r/m Idle Speed 1700 ± 100 r/m CO Emission 7.0g/km HC Emission 1.0g/km Fuel Type SAE 90# or above (unleaded) Lubricate Oil Type SAE 10W/30SF Lubrication Force & Splash Cooling Oil-cooled Ignition C. D. I. Starting Electric Spark Plug C7HSA (NGK) Spark Plug Gap 0.6~0.7mm Transmission Chain Transmission Gearbox Transmission Ratio F.:7.8:1 ; B.:11.297:1 Compression Ratio 9.5 ± 0.1 : 1 Carburetor MIKUNI BS 24-1005 Absorber Normal (in 10 5 times of experiments) CAPACITIES Front/ Rear Tire Load Coefficient 36 Front/ Rear Tire Speed Level L Fuel Tank 7.0L, 130kpa (no leakage in experiments) Engine Oil 1000ml Gear Oil 200ml Starting Time ≤15s Climbing ≥20%

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2011 FORD HARLEY-DAVIDSON F-150 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-11-2010

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Final assembly location Dearborn Truck Plant, Dearborn, Mich. POWERTRAIN AND CHASSIS ENGINE Type 6.2-liter two-valve V8 Configuration Iron block, aluminum heads Valvetrain SOHC, two valves per cylinder, roller-rocker shaft with hydraulic lash adjusters Bore x stroke 4.02 x 3.74 inches Displacement 379 cubic inches, 6,210 cc Compression ratio 9.8:1 Horsepower 411 hp @ 5,500 rpm Torque 434 lb.-ft. @ 4,500 rpm Fuel Injection Sequential multi-port electronic Oil capacity Seven quarts DRIVETRAIN Layout RWD or AWD TRANSMISSION Standard Six-speed automatic overdrive Gear ratios 1st 4.17:1 2nd 2.34:1 3rd 1.52:1 4th 1.14:1 5th 0.86:1 6th 0.69:1 Reverse 3.40:1 Available axle ratios 3.73 SUSPENSION Front 4×2 Coil-on-shock, long-spindle double-wishbone independent, stamped-steel lower control arm (sport-tuned) Front 4×4 Coil-on-shock, long-spindle double-wishbone independent, stamped-steel lower control arm (sport-tuned) Rear 4×2 Hotchkiss-type non-independent live, leaf springs and outboard shock absorbers (sport-tuned) Rear 4×4 Hotchkiss-type non-independent live, leaf springs and outboard shock absorbers (sport-tuned) STEERING Type Power rack-and-pinion Turning circle curb-to-curb 47.0 feet 2011 FORD HARLEY-DAVIDSON F-150 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS BRAKES Front 13.8-inch vented disc Rear 13.7-inch vented disc Assist type Vacuum, RSC WHEELS AND TIRES Wheels 22-inch polished forged aluminum with painted accents with “Harley- Davidson” Bar & Shield logo on wheel ornament Tires P275/45R-22 all-season BSW DIMENSIONS (inches unless otherwise noted) EXTERIOR SuperCrew RWD SuperCrew AWD Wheelbase 144.5 144.5 Vehicle length 231.9 231.9 Vehicle width (without mirrors) 79.2 79.2 Vehicle height 74.8 75.9 Track width, front/rear 67.0/67.0 67.0/67.0 Cargo box length 67.0 67.0 Width (max) between wheels 50.0 50.0 Inside box height 22.4 22.4 INTERIOR Seating capacity Five Five Headroom Front row 41.0 41.0 Rear row 40.3 40.3 Legroom Front row 41.4 41.4 Second row 43.5 43.5 Shoulder room Front row 65.9 65.9 Second row 65.5 65.5 Hip room Front row 60.5 60.5 Second row 64.6 64.6 WEIGHTS AND TOWING (pounds)

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SCOOTERS FRONT WHEEL/ FRONT BRAKE/ FRONT SUSPENSION INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 01-12-2010

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FRONT WHEEL REMOVAL Jack the motorcycle front wheel off the ground. Remove the speedometer cable set screw and disconnect the speedometer cable. Remove the front brake cable. Remove the front axle nut and pull out the axle. Remove the front wheel. Remove the front brake panel. INSPECTION AXLE RUNOUT Set the axle in V blocks and measure the runout using a dial gauge. The actual runout is 1/2 of the total indicator reading. Service Limit : 0.2mm replace if over WHEEL RIM Check the wheel rim runout. Service Limits : Radial : 2.0mm replace if over Axial : 2.0mm replace if over Screw Speedometer Cable Front Brake Cable Axle Nut Axle Shaft 12 . FRONT WHEEL/FRONT BRAKE/ FRONT SUSPENSION 12-4 FRONT WHEEL BEARING Remove the side collar and dust seal. Turn the inner race of each bearing with your finger to see if they turn smoothly and quietly. Also check if the outer race fits tightly in the hub. Replace the bearings if the races do not turn smoothly, quietly, or if they fit loosely in the hub. BEARING REPLACEMENT Remove the front wheel bearings and distance collar. Bearing Remover Bearing Remover Head, 12mm Pack all bearing cavities with grease. Drive in the left bearing. Install the distance collar. Drive in the right bearing. Outer driver, 32x35mm Driver handle A Pilot, 12mm

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KTM Front Wheel Bearing Installation Manuals

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 31-01-2012

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1 Place motorcycle on a stand so that the front wheel is off the ground. 2 Using a 27mm socket remove the front axle nut. Using a 10mm socket, loosen the four front axle pinch bolts. Slide front axle out of forks and remove front wheel. 3 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the aluminum wheel bearing spacers and push up against the inner edge of the spacer on the opposite side of the wheel (Fig. 1). Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the spacer until it completely slides out of the bearing (Fig. 2). Turn the wheel over and remove the other spacer in the same way. 4 Use a long screwdriver or narrow pry bar and pry the seals out of each side of the wheel (Fig. 3). 5 Using snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining snap ring from the brake rotor side of the wheel. (Fig. 4) NOTE: 2003 – CURRENT MODELS USING # 16-092 KIT DO NOT USE THIS SNAP RING. 6 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the wheel bearing, and push up against the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side of the wheel. Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the bearing until it completely slides out of the hub. Turn the wheel over and remove the other bearing in the same way. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the punch sideways at first to knock the center aluminum sleeve off center so that you are able to get the punch on the edge of the bearing. 7 Clean areas where bearings will be inserted back into hub and apply a thin coat of grease around the machined hub surface. Tap the bearing on the snap ring (if used, either side if not) side of the hub into the machined hub surface, making sure to keep it square with the hub as it goes in and only tap on the outer race of the bearing. Once you get the bearing flush with the outer edge of the hub, use a socket or piece of pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing into the hub. (Fig. 5) 8 Install the bearing retainer snap ring (if used) into the groove machined in the hub, and then tap the seal in place over the snap ring with the spring on the seal in towards the center of the wheel. Tap in the aluminum spacer in the center of the seal.

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2003 – 2006 KTM The e-Axle Installation Manuals

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 01-02-2012

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Remove the stock wheel spacers from both sides of the wheel hub and install both of the Rekluse wheel spacers. After installing the Rekluse wheel spacers, stow the wheel in a suitable place so that the brake rotor cannot be damaged. See following picture. 5 5. Remove the brake pads by removing the clips and sliding out the pin. See following picture. 6. Remove the leaf spring from the caliper. See following picture. 7. Re-install the brake pads with the included coil spring positioned on the pin between the brake pads. Secure the pin by re-installing the 2 clips. See following picture. Coil Spring on the pin and in between the brake pads 6 8. Coat the center axle in a thin layer of grease to aid in sliding the center axle on and off. Note: Coat the center axle in a thin layer every time it is reinstalled after removing the front wheel for tire maintenance. 9. Position the front wheel back in between the forks so that the brake disk is in place between the brake pads, and so the wheel spacers line up with the hole in the fork fists. 10. Slide the center axle, with 30-mm Bushing attached, through the right-side fork fist and through the wheel spacers in the front hub. Rotate the 30-mm bushing so the set screw is facing up, this will line the “0″ Offset Mark with the fork fist pinch clamp slot. Continue sliding the axle through until the 30-mm bushing is almost flush with the outer edge of the right fork fist. See following picture

MPS Sport Bike Auto Shift Installation Manuals

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 21-02-2012

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The first thing to do is remove the seat, fuel tank, and possibly the front fairing if equipped. You will need plenty of room to work. Electrical Connections – You will need to locate and test a few things on your bike before you start wiring. A good ground, an ignition switched 12 volt power source, the horns, and the ignition coils. We have plug n play style harnesses available for some bikes. Check the web site for specific models. Control Box Wiring Coils – Most four cylinder motorcycles use either a individual firing system or a waste spark system. Waste spark is by far the most common. All four cylinder bikes with only two coils use a waste spark system. Most late model four cylinder sport bikes use waste spark systems even though they have four individual coils. Bikes with a waste spark systems will need the 360 calibrated unit. The 360 calibrated Sport Bike Autoshifts are identified by the 360 engraved into the box below the wire lead exit. The P/N for these boxes has the 360 as a suffix. (P/N 1-0299-360) Some of the newest fuel injected bikes (Hayabusa, GSXR1000, ZX12) that have cam sync sensors are individual firing. These bikes will require 720 calibration and will have no outside identifiers and the P/N 1-0299. The Sport Bike Auto Shift has four brown wire leads that are connected to the negative of each individual coil on a four coil system. You will notice that the connector for the four brown wires has a molded in ridge that marks the brown wire that is used as the rpm sensor. This must be connected to the number one cylinder coil negative wire.

Suzuki M- 109 Front Head Pipe Installation Manuals

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 18-02-2012

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1. Remove seat (Fig 1) remove right side (Fig 2) panel with allen 6mm bolt and push-pin snap. (Fig 3) Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3
- 3 – 2. Remove 6mm bolt on heat shield and remove heat shield. (Fig 4) Figure 4 3. Remove two 8mm bolts on top muffler and remove two 8mm stock bolts on bottom muffler and remove mufflers. (Fig.5 & 6) Figure 5 Figure 6 4. Remove frame cover with stock allen 6mm bolt. (Fig 7) Figure 7 FFF – 4 – 5. Loosen brake pedal bolts to allow more room to remove the exhaust. (Fig 8) Figure 8 6. Remove exhaust system by removing stock 8mm bolts on exhaust flanges. (Fig 9) Figure 9 7. Unplug EXCVA wire connectors. (Fig 10) Figure 10 – 5 – 8. Remove three 8mm stock mufflers mounting brackets bolts as shown. (Fig 11) Figure 11 ffff 9. Remove EXCVA unit from the stock muffler bracket. (Fig 12) Figure 12 10. Remove the stock pulley from the EXCVA actuator unit as shown. (Fig 13)

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YAMAHA RHINO PERFORMER NITROUS SYSTEM INSTALLATION MANUALS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 14-01-2012

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The nitrous bottle is an aluminum cylinder designed and manufactured to withstand very high internal pressures. The valve on top of the bottle is a high-flow design that allows easy opening and closing which controls the nitrous flow to the engine compartment. Accurate calibration of your nitrous system depends on the bottle remaining at a stable temperature. In vehicles where the bottle must be mounted in an area subject to direct sunlight, it is suggested that the bottle be shielded with a bottle blanket when not in use. Here is the performer bottle valve. Installed on all bottle valves used in Edelbrock Nitrous Systems is a pressure relief device or “PRD”. It is a safety device designed to vent the contents of the bottle into the atmosphere if over-pressurization occurs. Unsafe bottle pressure is caused by over filling or elevated bottle temperatures. It is illegal to tamper with or remove the pressure relief device! Bottle Safety Information 1. Do not attempt to remove the bottle valve. Please return your bottle to Edelbrock if service is required to the siphon tube or the bottle valve itself. 2. Never heat the outside of your nitrous bottle with an open flame such as a torch. 3. Do not strike the surface of your nitrous bottle with a heavy or sharp object. 4. Do not drop your nitrous bottle. 5. Do not attempt to grind off or destroy any imprinted markings on the face of the bottle. 6. Do not remove, modify or otherwise tamper with the pressure relief device on the bottle valve. 7. Do not attempt to use a bottle that has been damaged or tampered with

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