Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-12-2011
Once you have found al1 the identification nurnbers, record thern for reference when nbuying parts. Since the rnanufacturers change specifications, parts and vendors (cornpanies that rnanufacture various cornponents on the
rnachine), providing the ID nurnbers is the only av to be reasonablv sure that vou are buvina Model, c ~ d e and
production year CBR400RR-J (1988) CBR400RR-K (1 989) CBR400RR-L (t990 and 91) CBR400RR-N (1992 and 93) CBR400RR-R (1 994-on) , the correct parts. Whenever possible, take the worn pari to the dealer so direct cornparison with the new cornponent can be rnade. Along the trail frorn the rnanufacturer to the parts shelf, there are nurnerous places that the part can end up with the wrong nurnber or be listed incorrectly. The two places to purchase new parts for
your rnotorcycle – the accessory shop and the rnotorcycle dealer – differ in the type of parts they carry. While dealers can obtain virtually every part for your rnotorcycle, the accessory shop is usually lirnited to norrnal high wear iterns such as shock absorbers, tune-up parts, various engine gaskets, cables, chains, brake parts, etc. Rarely will an accessory outlet have rnajor suspension cornponents, cylinders, transrnission gears, or cases. Used parts can be obtained for roughly half the price of new ones, but you can’t always be sure of what you’re getting. Once again, take your worn part to the breaker for direct cornparison. Whetherhu~ng new, used or rebuilt parts, the best course is to dea1 directly with sorneone who specialises in parts for your particular rnake. Frame nwnber NC23-1020001 t0 1036454 NC23 t090001 t0 10981 16 NC29-1000001 to 101 0598 NC29-1050001 on NC29-l t00001 on Unofficial (grey) imports
All CBR400RR rnodels in the LIK are unofficial (grey) irnports frorn Japan. The rnajority are second-hand rnachines and are allocated age-related licence plates for UK use (the licence plate letter reflects the production year in Japan), although new CBRs are allocated current year UK registration letter plates. Cornrnon changes rnade prior to sale in the UK are the disabling of the rev-lirniter device (or more correctly ‘speed-lirniter’ device), which is fitted to cornply with Japanese rnarket regulations. The device is located inthe speedorneter head and is linked to th
Filed Under (Bajaj) by admin on 25-11-2010
Before Starting the Engine/Motor 1. Engine oil level a) Check for leaks b) Tighten filler cap securely. c) Add oil if required. 2. Fuel level a) Add fuel as necessary. b) Do not overfill (no fuel in the filler neck). c) Do not mix oil with gas. d) Replace cap tightly. e) Do not refuel a hot engine. Allow engine to cool before adding fuel. 3. Warning decals a) Make sure all warning decals are legible and securely attached. b) Replace as necessary. 4. Tires a) Ensure that both tires are in safe riding condition. b) Both tires must be inflated to the pressure indicated on the tire sidewalls. 5. Drive chain a) Check condition and tension. b) Lubricate and adjust tension as necessary. 6. Throttle a) Check for smooth operation. Make sure the throttle “snaps” back to idle. b) Check for frayed cable or damaged cable housing. Replace damaged cable. c) Check for mud, debris and ice in the throttle cable/mechanism. Clean out any contamination. 5 SAFETY GEAR A DOT approved motorcycle helmet is the most important part of you safety gear. A DOT approved motorcycle helmet can help prevent a serious head injury. Choose a helmet that fits snugly. Motorcycle dealers can help in selecting a good quality helmet which fits properly.
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 07-11-2010
GENERAL INFORMATION MOTORCYCLE IDENTIFICATION EB100010 VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER The vehicle identification number 1 is stamped into the right side of the steering head. MODEL LABEL The model label 1 is affixed to the frame. This information will be needed to order spare parts. 1-2 IMPORTANT INFORMATION GEN INFO EB101000 IMPORTANT INFORMATION PREPARATION FOR REMOVAL PROCE- DURES 1. Remove all dirt, mud, dust and foreign material before removal and disassembly. 2. Use proper tools and cleaning equipment. Refer to the “SPECIAL TOOLS” section. 3. When disassembling the machine, always keep mated parts together. This includes gears, cylinders, pistons and other parts that have been “mated” through normal wear. Mated parts must always be reused or replaced as an assembly. 4. During machine disassembly, clean all parts and place them in trays in the order of disassembly. This will speed up assembly and allow for the correct installation of all parts. 5. Keep all parts away from any source of fire. EB101010 REPLACEMENT PARTS 1. Use only genuine Yamaha parts for all replacements. Use oil and grease recommended by Yamaha for all lubrication jobs. Other brands may be similar in function and appearance, but inferior in quality. EB101020 GASKETS, OIL SEALS AND O-RINGS 1. Replace all gaskets, seals and O-rings when overhauling the engine. All gasket surfaces, oil seal lips and O-rings must be cleaned. 2. Properly oil all mating parts and bearings during reassembly. Apply grease to the oil seal lips. 1-3 IMPORTANT INFORMATION GEN INFO CAUTION: EB101030 LOCK WASHERS/PLATES AND COTTER PINS 1. Replace all lock washers/plates 1 and cotter pins after removal. Bend lock tabs along the bolt or nut flats after the bolt or nut has been tightened to specification
Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010
INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 29-11-2010
1. Remove all dirt, mud, dust and foreign material before removal and disassembly. 2. Use proper tools and cleaning equipment. Refer to the “SPECIALTOOLS” section. 3. When disassembling the machine, always keep mated parts together. This includes gears, cylinders, pistons and other parts that have been “mated” through normal wear. Mated parts must always be reused or replaced as an assembly. 4. During machine disassembly, clean all parts and place them in trays in the order of disassembly. This will speed up assembly and allow for the correct installation of all parts. 5. Keep all parts away from any source of fire. EB101010 REPLACEMENT PARTS 1. Use only genuine Yamaha parts for all replacements. Use oil and grease recommended by Yamaha for all lubrication jobs. Other brands may be similar in function and appearance, but inferior in quality. EB101020 GASKETS, OIL SEALS AND O-RINGS 1. Replace all gaskets, seals and O-rings when overhauling the engine. All gasket surfaces, oil seal lips and O-rings must be cleaned. 2. Properly oil all mating parts and bearings during reassembly. Apply grease to the oil seal lips.
GEN INFO IMPORTANT INFORMATION 1-3 EB101030 LOCK WASHERS/PLATES AND COTTER PINS 1. Replace all lock washers/plates 1and cotter pins after removal. Bend lock tabs along the bolt or nut flats after the bolt or nut has been tightened to specification. EB101040 BEARINGS AND OIL SEALS 1. Install bearings and oil seals so that the manufacturer’s marks or numbers are visible. When installing oil seals, apply a light coating of lightweight lithium base grease to the seal lips. Oil bearings liberally when installing, if appropriate. 1Oil seal Do not use compressed air to spin the bearings dry. This will damage the bearing sur- faces. 1Bearing CAUTION: EB101050 CIRCLIPS 1. Check all circlips carefully before reassembly. Always replace piston pin clips after one use. Replace distorted circlips. When installing a circlip 1, make sure that the sharp-edged corner 2is positioned opposite the thrust 3 it receives. See sectional view