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HARLEY DAVIDSON WHEEL BEARING REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION TOOL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-02-2011

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BEARING REMOVAL 1. Place the wheel vertically in a vise and protect the rim from being marred. NOTE See Figure 1 for the tool lubrication locations before using. 2. Assemble the remover tool. a. Install wheel bearing puller (1), (2) or (16) depending on the bearing I.D. See the service parts table for the size reference. Install the wheel bearing puller into the bearing by hand or use a rubber mallet ( not a hard-faced hammer) to push through the bearing I.D. Stop pushing on the bearing puller as soon as it has cleared the inside of the bearing race. There will be a slight click. b. Place main body puller (3) over bearing puller with the fingers of main body puller facing the wheel. Lightly oil all threads. c. Place the large brass washer (10) and nut (13) onto the puller and hand-tighten the nut until it stops at the top face of the bridge. 3. Remove the front wheel bearings. a. Apply a small amount of oil to the taper at the hex end of the expander dowel. Insert the expander dowel (7) through the other side of wheel bearings, and through the bearing puller. b. Install the washer (15 and nut (14) to the expander dowel and torque to 100 in-lbs (11.3 Nm) with a 11/16 inch wrench or socket while holding the other side of the expander dowel by reaching the opposite side of the wheel with a 3/8 inch hex key. c. Align the main body puller support fingers centered over the bearing to be removed. If main body puller will be directly on a finished chrome surface, protect the surface area. d. If resistance is felt with a torque wrench set at 40 ft- lbs (54.2 Nm) of torque, you will need to apply heat to the hub area surrounding the bearing. Prior to applying heat, place 2 to 3 temperature stickers (P/N 94146-10) around the circumference of the hub. Apply indirect heat using a heat gun. Do not exceed 210°F. With a 1-1/8 inch socket and torque wrench, turn the nut (13) until the bearing is pulled free from the wheel hub. e. Using a 3/8 in. hex key on an extension and torque wrench set on the expander dowel (7) and a 1-1/8 inch wrench. Turn the nut (13) until the bearing is free of the wheel hub. 4. Remove the wheel bearing spacer from the I.D. of the wheel hub. 5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the opposite bearing. NOTE Remove rear wheel belt sprocket before removing the bearings. 6. Rear wheel bearing removal is the same as steps 1 through 4 by using the correct size wheel bearing puller

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KTM Front Wheel Bearing Installation Manuals

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 31-01-2012

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1 Place motorcycle on a stand so that the front wheel is off the ground. 2 Using a 27mm socket remove the front axle nut. Using a 10mm socket, loosen the four front axle pinch bolts. Slide front axle out of forks and remove front wheel. 3 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the aluminum wheel bearing spacers and push up against the inner edge of the spacer on the opposite side of the wheel (Fig. 1). Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the spacer until it completely slides out of the bearing (Fig. 2). Turn the wheel over and remove the other spacer in the same way. 4 Use a long screwdriver or narrow pry bar and pry the seals out of each side of the wheel (Fig. 3). 5 Using snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining snap ring from the brake rotor side of the wheel. (Fig. 4) NOTE: 2003 – CURRENT MODELS USING # 16-092 KIT DO NOT USE THIS SNAP RING. 6 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the wheel bearing, and push up against the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side of the wheel. Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the bearing until it completely slides out of the hub. Turn the wheel over and remove the other bearing in the same way. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the punch sideways at first to knock the center aluminum sleeve off center so that you are able to get the punch on the edge of the bearing. 7 Clean areas where bearings will be inserted back into hub and apply a thin coat of grease around the machined hub surface. Tap the bearing on the snap ring (if used, either side if not) side of the hub into the machined hub surface, making sure to keep it square with the hub as it goes in and only tap on the outer race of the bearing. Once you get the bearing flush with the outer edge of the hub, use a socket or piece of pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing into the hub. (Fig. 5) 8 Install the bearing retainer snap ring (if used) into the groove machined in the hub, and then tap the seal in place over the snap ring with the spring on the seal in towards the center of the wheel. Tap in the aluminum spacer in the center of the seal.

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Honda 400EX Hub installation instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 20-12-2011

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Remove all contents from its packaging and verify that all parts are present and free from damage. You should have the following items: (2) wheel hubs (2) smaller tapered bearings (2) large tapered bearings (2) wheel bearing nuts (2) dust caps (2) inner bearing seals (6) M3 x .5 screws (2) cotter pins (2) inner bearing spacers 2. Completely remove the old hubs from your quad and clean the spindle and the surrounding areas. It is very important to keep the new bearings and seals clean during installation for long life. Be sure to remove the factory inner bearing spacers from the spindle and discard. They will not be used in re-assembly. 3. Pack your new Timken tapered wheel bearings with a liberal amount of high quality wheel bearing grease. A wheel bearing packer works best, however you can accomplish the task by placing the grease in the palm of your hand and manually working it in between the bearing rollers. We also recommend that you pack the area between the bearing races in the hub with grease for additional lubrication and protection against moisture. 4. Place the large wheel bearing (inner) into the hub and install the inner seal. The seal should bottom out against the step in the bore and the face should be flush with the hub. 5. Remove the brake rotors from your old hubs. Re-install the rotors on your new hubs and be sure to use medium strength Loctite on the threads. 6. Apply a light film of grease or oil to the large diameter of the spindle stud. Install the new o-ringed bearing spacer onto the spindle. 7. Apply a thin film of grease to the seal surface on the bearing spacer and the inside diameter of the seal to prevent the seal from running dry. Install the hub onto the spindle and slide the outer bearing over the spindle and install the new bearing nut furnished with your hubs. Do not use the factory nut or washer. 8. SETTING THE BEARING PRELOAD: It is first necessary to seat the bearing before setting the preload. This aligns the rollers and prevents the bearings from loosening after a short period of use. To seat the bearing, tighten the spindle nut while you rotate the hub until the hub becomes difficult to spin. With the bearing now seated, you must set the bearing preload. Preload means placing a small amount of force against the bearings to remove any clearance between the bearing race and the rollers. This is done by backing the nut off completely and re-tightening it with your fingers. Do not rotate the hub while setting the preload . If a hole in the spindle is not accessible for installation of the cotter pin, adjust the nut tighter to bring a hole into alignment. Install the cotter pin and bend the pin around the outside of the nut. Do not attempt to bend the pin toward you (over the end of the spindle) or it may rub on the inside of the dust cap.

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KTM Rear Wheel Bearing Installation and REMOVAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 23-01-2012

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1 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the aluminum wheel bearing spacers and push up against the inner edge of the spacer on the opposite side of the wheel (Fig. 1). 2 Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the spacer until it completely slides out of the bearing (Fig. 2). Turn the wheel over and remove the other spacer in the same way. 3 Use a long screwdriver or narrow pry bar and pry the seals out of each side of the wheel (Fig. 3). 4 Using snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining snap ring from either the disc or sprocket side of the wheel (Fig. 4). 5 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the wheel bearing, and push up against the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side of the wheel. Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the bearing until it completely slides out of the hub. Turn the wheel over and remove the other bearing in the same way. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the punch sideways at first to knock the center aluminum sleeve off center so that you are able to get the punch on the edge of the bearing. 6 Clean areas where bearings will be inserted back into hub and apply a thin coat of grease around the machined hub surface. Tap the bearing on the snap ring side of the hub into the machined hub surface, making sure to keep it square with the hub as it goes in and only tap on the outer race of the bearing. Once you get the bearing flush with the outer edge of the hub, use a socket or piece of pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing into the hub. (Fig. 5)

AJS WHEEL BEARING ADJUSTMENT

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Front Wheel (a) With the machine on the centre stand, disconnect the brake cable and remove the wheel. (b) Slacken the circular lock-nut (10). (c) Turn the adjusting sleeve (9) clockwise until all the slackness is just taken up. (d) Turn the adjusting sleeve (9) anticlockwise one-half a turn. It will now be necessary to drive the bearing back against the sleeve and this is done by:— (e) placing the wheel under a press and pressing the end of the spindle (on the brake-side) downwards. or: (f) jarring the end of the spindle on the brake-side with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged, (g) Tighten the circular lock-nut (10). Hold the sleeve in position while this is being done otherwise the sleeve may move and the adjustment will be in- correct. (h) Refit the wheel and check for end-float. Front Wheel Bearing Assembly T www.ajs-matchles s.info ISSUED BY A·J·S MOTOR CYCLES, LONDON, S.E.18. Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly for Quickly Detachable Wheels Rear Wheel (a) Disconnect the speedometer driving cable. (b) Remove the lock-nut (16) which secures the speedometer-drive gear­ box in position. (c) Remove the wheel. (d) Grasp the speedometer-drive gearbox (15) with the fingers and firmly pull it away from the hub. (e) Proceed as described in the instructions for the front wheel (b) to (d). Note that in the illustrations for the rear wheel the circular lock-nut is (13) and the adjusting sleeve is (14), It will now be necessary to drive the bearing back against the sleeve and this is done in the following manner: Quickly Detachable Wheels (f) place the wheel under a press, brake- side uppermost, and apply pressure to the oil-seal distance piece (6), or; (g) jarr the end of the oil-seal distance piece (6) with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged. Wheels for Rigid-Frame Models (h) Remove the brake-side spindle nut (19), washer (18), fork-end spacer (17), outer spacer (20), and the brake plate (21). (i) Place the wheel, brake-side uppermost. under a press and apply pressure to the oil-seal distance piece (6). or; (j) jarr the end of the oil-seal distance piece (6) with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged. All Rear Wheels (k) Refit the speedometer-drive gearbox. It is pushed on. The two dogs must engage with the slots in the end-face of the adjusting sleeve. (l) Refit the lock nut (16). (m) Refit the wheel into the frame and check for end-float. (n) Tighten the lock-nut (16) and refit the speedometer driving cable

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AJS DISMANTLING AND REBUILDING FULL-WIDTH FRONT WHEEL HUBS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Removal of the Brake-side Bearing Cup The bearing cup (5) is located endwise by a circlip (1), and between the cup and circlip arc an oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), and oil-seal cup washer (2) Before these parts can be removed from the hub the bearing cup must be moved inwards for a very short distance (3/16-inch) so that the circlip can be withdrawn. (n) Gently heat the hub shell. (i) Place a soft metal rod (e.g. brass) against the oil-seal cup washer (2) and apply pressure with a hand press or hammer blows. It is only necessary to move the bearing cup (5) inwards about 1/16-inch. (j) Extract the circlip by inserting a narrow pen-knife blade under one end of the circlip; lift it upwards and outwards and prise the clip out of its groove. (k) Remove the oil-seal cup washer (2), oil seal (3) and oil-seal retaining washer (4). They can be hooked out with the shank of a small and narrow screw­ driver, (l) The bearing cup can now be ejected by placing a suitable rod of soft metal (e.g. brass) in the hub tunnel from the right-hand side and pressing it — with a press or hammer blows — against the bearing cup until the cup is forced out of the bearing. This must be done with care so that the cup remains square with the housing. Reassembly To facilitate replacement of the bearing cups gently heat the hub shell. Just too hot to hold is about the right temperature. (a) Place the brake-side bearing cup squarely in the hub shell — the open end faces inwards — and press it into the hub tunnel A short length of brass rod, slightly less than the outside dia­ meter of the cup, should be interposed between the cup and ram of the press, or hammer head. Press the cup in until the outer face is approximately half-an-inch below the mouth of the hub tunnel. This will allow sufficient room to allow [he circlip to be inserted into its groove. (b) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), oil-seal cup washer (2). (c) The circlip can now be replaced. In the interest of reliability use a new circlip, for it is possible that the existing circlip was strained when it was re­ moved. (d) Insert into the hub tunnel from the right-hand side a brass rod of suitable length, and press the bearing cup firmly against the circlip. (e) Before inserting the spindle complete with the roller races, pack them with clean and fresh grease of a suitable grade (Mobilgrease No. 4. Castrolease heavy, Energrease C3, Esso Pressure Gun Grease. Shelf Retinax Grease CD or A). (0 Insert the spindle into the hub. (g) Place the right-hand side bearing cup in the hub tunnel; the open end faces inwards, It may be necessary to re-heat the hub to allow the cup to go into position without difficulty. (h) Press the cup into position, but do not force it fully home, leave some end play on the spindle. (i) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (6), oil-seal (7) and oil-seal cup washer (8). (j) Screw into the hub the adjusting sleeve (9) until it comes into contact with the bearing cup (5)

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ESCAPADE TRAILER Wheel Bearing Removal AND OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 20-11-2010

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1. Remove lug nuts and wheel assembly. Remove the cotter pin, adjusting nut (castle nut) and washer from the wheel spindle. 2. Pull the wheel hub towards you to loosen the outer bearing cone. Don’t Let the cone fall to the ground. As the hub is removed, the inner bearing and grease seal will come with it. Observe which direction the inner seal is facing. Pry out the inner seal and discard. 3. Remove all old lubricant from the hub assembly and wheel spindle with kerosene or mineral spirits. CAUTION: do not use gasoline to clean and remove the old lubricant). Inspect the spindle for scoring, bending, thread or other damage. A light grease coating on the spindle will make bearing installation easier and prevent rust from forming. 4. Inspect cups in the hub for pitting, metal flaking, scoring, rust or other obvious damage. Remove any damaged cups with a mild steel bar. Replace cups and cones in matched sets only; not one at a time. 5. Use cup driver or mild steel bar to press or drive the new cup into the hub Wheel / Rim: 12 X 4 JA (4 bolt, 4″ bolt diameter, 2½” rear space) Tire: 4.80 X 12 (B) (4 ply rated; cold pressure rated to 465 lbs. of load at 25 PSI). NOTE: These are standard utility trailer size tires and wheels. Using oversize tires or increasing tire pressures to a level higher than recommended will not increase the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). HUBS For maximum performance from your Sport Wheels and to avoid damage to your trailer, observe the following precautions: •When buying a replacement hub, check that the hub flange is no smaller than a diameter of ?”. •The replacement hub must accept the 1″ bearing (Part Number L44643) and matching cup. •Torque all lug nuts holding the wheel to 75 ft. lbs. TRAILING ARM / SWING ARM No maintenance is required for the trailing arm bearings for the life of the trailer. However, if the trailing arm is removed for any reason the following steps must be followed. 1. Once the ¾” X 16 hex nut has been removed, discard it, and replace with a new lock nut of the same design. 2. When replacing the trailing arm, be sure the bearing spacer is located between the bearings. 3. Torque the hex nut to 14 ft. lbs while moving swing-arm up and down.. DO NOT BACK OFF FOR ADJUSTMENT . Insufficient torque to the

HARLEY DAVIDSON ENGINE/TRANSMISSION INTERFACE AND TOP COVER INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-04-2011

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INSTALLATION Perform this installation when the engine is cool. Working on or near the exhaust system when the engine is hot could result in severe burns. (00311a) 1. Refer to the Owner’s Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the maxi-fuse. 1 4 3 2 is03621 1. Transmission top cover screw (3) 2. Upper and lower rear bearing housing screw (2) 3. Upper front bearing housing screw 4. Lower front bearing housing screw Figure 1. Interface Cover Installation 2. See Figure 1. Remove the two rear bearing housing screws (2) from the side of the transmission case. 3. Remove the oil level dipstick from the oil spout on the side of the transmission housing, wipe off and set it aside for later installation. NOTE Insert a clean shop rag into the oil spout opening while the dipstick is not installed. With the dipstick removed, small parts or other foreign material could fall into the transmission, leading to equipment damage or malfunction. 4. See Figure 2. Obtain the rear interface mounting bracket (1) from the kit. 5. Apply a few drops of Loctite 243 (Blue) to the threads of the two bearing housing screws removed in Step 2. Install the rear interface mounting bracket to the bearing housing with the screws, and tighten to 13-18 ft-lbs (17.6-24.4 Nm) . 6. See Figure 1. Remove the upper front bearing housing screw (3) from the side of the transmission case. Loosen the lower front bearing housing screw (4). 7. See Figure 2. Obtain the front interface mounting bracket (2) from the kit. 8. Apply a few drops of Loctite 243 (Blue) to the threads of the upper front bearing housing screw removed in Step 6. Hook the slot in the front interface mounting bracket under the loosened lower screw head. Install the bracket to the bearing housing with the upper screw, and tighten both screws to 13-18 ft-lbs (17.6-24.4 Nm) . 9. See Figure 1. Remove and retain the three socket head cap screws (1) that fasten the right side and left front corner of the transmission cover. 10. Remove and retain the screw fastening the rear brake line P-clamp to the rear fork bracket. 11. See Figure 2. Obtain the right rear interface cover (3), two chrome 1/4-20 screws (6) and two flat washers (7) from the kit. 12. From the rear of the motorcycle, bring the right rear interface cover into position behind the rear exhaust pipe, over the bearing housing. The hole in the top surface of the cover should be positioned over the right rear transmission top cover hole. 13. Loosely fasten the interface cover to the rear interface mounting bracket with the two chrome screws and flat washers. 14. Obtain the chrome top interface cover (4) from the kit. 15. Position the top interface cover over the transmission top cover, overlapping the tab at the top front of the chrome right rear interface cover

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BMW K 1100 LT/ RS Repair And Installation Manual

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 26-10-2010

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Transmission cover to transmission 9 Machine screw for neutral stop 13 Stud bolt, selector shaft 17 (Loctite 243) Transmission to intermediate flange 16 Frame mounting to transmission 45 Bearing mount to transmission 41 (Loctite 243) Starter motor to transmission 9 Positive lead to starter motor 5 Fixed bearing of swinging arm to transmission 9 Swinging arm bearing journal (loose bearing) 7,5 Locknut of bearing journal 41 Fixed bearing rear wheel drive in swinging arm 150 (clean thread + Loctite 2701) Bearing pin, loose bearing rear wheel drive in swinging arm 7 (clean thread + Loctite 2701) Locknut, loose bearing rear wheel drive in swinging arm 105 (clean thread + Loctite 2701) Suspension strut to frame/rear wheel drive 51 Brake caliper 32 Hinterradschraub en 105 Exhaust to cylinder head 21 Silencer to holder/footrest plate 9 Front silencer to transmission 12 Footrest plate to transmission 15 31 Front fork Oil filler plug 10 Oil drain plug 3,5 Spring support bearing 20 Locking tube 65 Hexagon nut 65 Clamping screws of fork bridges 15 Bottom screw fitting 47 Handlebar clamp block 22 Fork stabilisor

HARLEY DAVIDSON TIMKEN BEARING CONVERSION TOOL INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-03-2011

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2-ton press (must be square to within .010″, ram to table) Inch-lb torque wrench Foot-lb torque wrench T15 TORX® drive socket (for inch-lb torque wrench) 5/32 inch hex drive socket (for inch-lb torque wrench) 5/16 inch hex drive socket (for foot-lb torque wrench) 5/64 inch hex key wrench 1/16 inch hex key wrench 3/8 inch drive hand drill small tap handle (suitable for #8-32 tap) Tapping Fluid Press Fit Lube (non-drip) Loctite® 620 threadlocker and sealant The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. Use the appropriate service manual procedures. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley-Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. (00333a) NOTE This instruction sheet references service manual information. A service manual for your model motorcycle is required for this installation and is available from a Harley-Davidson Dealer. Kit Contents See Figure 21 and Table 3. If replacement parts are needed contact JIMS® at 805-482- 6913 or INSTALLATION 1. Remove and disassemble the engine as necessary to remove the left side engine case. Bearings and seals must be removed from the left case. Refer to the service manual for the disassembly procedures. 2. Use an appropriate solvent to clean the left engine case. Also clean the bearing sleeve (1) supplied in the kit. 3. Apply Loctite 620 to the smaller inside diameter portion of the left case bearing bore. 4. See Figure 1. Apply Loctite 620 using a cotton swab to the smaller portion of the outside diameter (2) surface of the bearing sleeve (1). 5. Apply a spare amount of non-drip press fit lube (3) to the larger outside diameter of the bearing sleeve. 6. See Figure 2. Fit the bottom locater plate (1) to the to the outside of the case over the bearing bore. The word “BOTTOM” will be at the bottom of the case when installed at the 6 o’clock position

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