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Motorcycle Park sensor HRA – 7800 G2 User/ Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-11-2010

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Drill the holes in the bumper as indicated in the installation diagrams below and install the sensors. Sensors 1, 4, 5 and 8 should NOT be mounted on the curve of the bumper. 2. Install the sensor vertically; the “up” arrow must be pointing upwards. 3. Connect the Red wire of the control unit to the (+) positive of ignition wire. 4. Connect the Black wire (-) to the vehicleʼs chassis. 5. Connect yellow wire to the (+) positive wire of the vehicle reverse indicating light. 6. Install the triggering micro switch on the panel, system will work when pressing the triggering switch. It is especially helpful when you want to park the car inside of the garage without engaging reverse gear. System will stay on for 2 minutes. 7. Clean the area of the dashboard where the LCD display is going to be mounted. 8. Remove the sticker off the bottom of display. Also remove protective screen cover from LCD screen. 9. Mount the display on the dashboard by firmly pressing down the display. 10. Connect the display unit, and then connect all sensors one by one 1. Installation of the screen The screen stick on the panel Which suitable for the driver 2. Installation of detectors 1. The sensors 5 and 8 must be installed at Same level. 2. The distance between The ground and the sensors is about 50-65 cm, suggested 55 cm. 3. The sensors must be installed perpendicular to bumper & avoid attaching on the metal. 4. To ensure the best detect position, the sensors 5 & 8 must be installed beside the edge 30-40cm, suggested 30cm. 5. After measurement, make a symbol. 6. To ensure best detecting results, the sensors 1 & 4 must be installed near the edge 8-13cm, suggested 11cm. 7. Measuring the distance between sensors 1 & 4 and marking a (L) sign. 8. Marking the points of sensors 2 & 3 by 1/3 L. 9. Using the 20mm drill, drill through the point which is marked, secure the sensors into the holes. 3. Installation of main unit 1. The main unit must be installed in the trunk to avoid moisture & heat. 2. Lead out the power wire from the startup facility of the vehicle, connect it to the power supply wire of the main unit. 3. Plug the power supply wire, screen wire & sensors wire respectively to the inputs of the main unit family.

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WORKS PERFORMANCE STREET TRACKER SHOCKS FOR BIG DOG MOTORCYCLES

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 17-12-2010

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SHOCK REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION– The shocks are fitted with special length spacers to maintain correct alignment between the frame and the swingarm. If the shocks are removed for service or repair, they must be installed in the correct position. Refer to the diagram on the next page for spacer positioning and layout. NOTE: Misalignment between the mounts on the frame and the mounts on the swingarm can cause binding between the shock shaft and shaft bushing. Misalignment of more than 1/4 inch can cause the shocks to bind up and not function properly. If this binding occurs, the shocks will feel overly stiff and harsh. Follow the procedures below to check for misalignment when installing the shocks. NOTE: The shock bushings are designed to have a certain side-to-side “float” to keep them from binding. As a result, do not grind or file the inner or outer edges of the bushings to make them narrower. The amount of “float” in the bushing set is necessary to ensure smooth operation of the damper assembly. If the shock eyes are tightened metal-to-metal (the outer faces of the eyes to the flanges or washers), this will lead to a harsh, stiff or choppy ride and premature seal leakage or damage to the shafts. MULTI-RATE SPRINGS Depending on each application, single or dual-rate springs are available. Dual-rate springs are just that– a spring set with two separate rates. This is done with a short spring stacked on a longer spring. As both springs compress they produce a soft, or initial, rate. The spring set will maintain this initial rate until the short spring stops compressing. At that point, the spring rate “crosses over” to the stiffer, or final, rate. This multi-rate system allows a soft initial rate for comfort on small bumps, but has the capability of soaking up the big pot-holes and other road hazards. PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT— On Works shocks, threaded preload is standard. (See Fig. 2.) This allows the adjustment of the ride height of the motorcycle. The preload is changed by turning a threaded nut down towards the spring (higher ride height) or up away from the spring (lower ride height). The nut is a right-hand thread. It is used primarily to set the ride height for solo riding, but can also be used when

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AJS Big-end replacement instructions

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Above: Once the first wheel is off, the pin can be removed in the vice using a drift and spacer. Right: Out with the old; in with the new. Big-end track renewal is a two- in-one operation. Left: No wonder the original bearing was making let-me-out noises! New big end assemblies come dipped in a protective plastic coating. Below: A smear of grease stops the new rollers squirting all over the place. Cotton tape holds them tight to the pin, until the big end is in position. Below. Ensure that the new pin is absolutely square before you attempt to press it in. Mating faces must be operating theatre clean. one out of the con-rod as you fit it. A short piece of square-ended pipe makes a spacer, but take great care that the track goes in square. Soft jaws in the vice prevent damage. The new bearing will usually be grease packed, which helps to stick uncaged rollers onto the inner track. Wrap a length of tape around, pulling it out as you drop the big end eye over. Get the rod the right way round! Check the fit, because the con-rod can occasionally squeeze a new outer race so that it nips the rollers. Lapping it in is the cure, but that’s not within the scope of this article. (Universal journalists’ copout). Press up the second flywheel, using a set square to get the alignment about right, and nip up the nut. The scrap box supplied materials for my truing jig. Two pairs of small roller bearings support the mainshafts, and one support post is adjustable to allow for different crank widths and shaft diameters. For ease and accuracy, a dial gauge wins every time, and if you compare it to the cost of employing an expert, you’ll have no difficulty in justifying the expense. Wedge the con-rod between

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HARLEY DAVIDSON EFI SCREAMIN' EAGLE BIG BORE EFI STAGE 2 KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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INSTALLATION Installation of this kit is divided into six steps: 1. Big-Bore Cylinder and Piston Conversion 2. High Performance Camshafts 3. High Performance Clutch Diaphragm Spring 4. High Performance Air Cleaner 5. Calibrate the ECM 6. Exhaust NOTES This Big-Bore Stage 2 kit is intended for High Performance applications only. This engine-related performance part is legal for sale or use in California on pollution-controlled motor vehicles. Engine-related performance parts are intended for the experienced rider only. -J04173 1 of 5 The air cleaner contained in these kits is designed to perform with these kits only. Any other combination of components is not confirmed to be legal for street use. The Product Information Label contained in this kit is required in the state of California only. This label is required to aid in passing the California Smog Check Program. Place the Product Information Label on the right side of the frame, directly beneath the VIN sticker. Do not place the label on motorcycles other than those specified in the Instruction Sheet. Gaskets provided in the 1690 conversion kit eliminate the need for original head gasket O-rings. For this reason, DO NOT install the Original Equipment (OE) O-rings (Part Number 11273) to the top of cylinder dowels, or severe engine damage may occur. Big-Bore Cylinder and Piston Conversion NOTE Installation of this kit requires removal of the cylinder heads, cylinders and pistons. Refer to Section 3, ENGINE: STRIPPING MOTORCYCLE FOR SERVICE and TOP END OVERHAUL of the applicable Service Manual for instructions. High Performance Camshafts NOTE Installation of this kit requires removal and re-installation of the cam support plate. Refer to Section 3, ENGINE: BOTTOM END Cam Support Plate, Removal and Disassembly/Assembly (Camshaft, Camshaft Bearings) of the applicable Service Manual for instructions. Measuring Piston-to-Valve Clearance After installing non-stock cams, check piston-to-valve clear- ance. 1. Apply 1/8-inch (3 mm) layer of clay to crowns of pistons in areas where valves meet pistons. 2. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual and assemble the heads and valve train, and tighten cylinder studs to torque specified. 3. Turn engine through two complete revolutions by hand. 4. Remove heads and measure clay at its thinnest point. NOTE Clay must measure 0.080 inch (2.03 mm) at its thinnest point. If this measurement does not meet minimum thickness, depth of valve notches must be increased. The depth of the notches must not exceed 0.135 inch (3.43 mm). Measuring Valve-to-Valve Clearance NOTE Wait ten minutes before turning the engine after installing push rods. This allows tappets to bleed down and prevents you from bending push rods or valves. 1. Rotate the engine so that both valves of the front cylinder are partially open. Shine a light through the exhaust port and look through the spark plug hole to view the valves. Turn engine, if required, to the point where the exhaust evel sensor to the fuel pump with screw (3). Tighten the screw enough to seat the fuel sensor against the mounting tab e. Route fuel level sensor wiring under the fuel hose and connect the fuel level sensor to the low fuel switch connector on the fuel pump module. If necessary use the jumper harness (Figure 4, item 5). f. See Figure 2. Secure the fuel pump wires and con- nectors

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Honda / Acura Crank Shaft Seal Kit installation

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 17-11-2011

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Due to the close proximity of transversely mounted engines to the shock tower, this essential tool is crucial for the
proper installation of Cam Shaft Oil Seals. Comes equipped with an exclusive expansion guide ensuring damage free installation. Applicable: Most Toyota 4 cylinder & some Mazda engines. This Special Bonus Kit was designed for the proper installation of Pulley Crank Shaft oil seals, situated within confined areas on most 4, 6 & 8 cylinder Toyota / Lexus, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Mazda and Infiniti engines. Application includes Cam Shaft oil seal installation of Toyota / Lexus 2.5L, 2.8L, 3.0L, 3.4L, 4.0L & 4.3L engines. The step bolts screw into the cam or crank shaft end. The press nut w/ washer allows for an even ressing force, seating the oil seal into the engine case every time

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HARLEY-DAVIDSON V-ROD BIG BORE KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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The cylinder sleeves provided with the Wiseco V-Rod big bore kit have been finished honed to size and the piston to cylinder clearance has been set. Prior to installation, the sleeves must be washed in hot soapy water (not parts washer solvent) and dried. Coat the bore surface with motor oil and wipe it with a white towel. If the towel shows any remaining grit, repeat the hot soapy water washing process until the towel will only show clean motor oil. CAUTION: Test fit the cleaned sleeve (without O-Rings installed) into the engine block. Sleeve should drop into position. If sleeve will not easily drop into position, warm the engine block with a hair dryer until sleeve will drop into position. Remove sleeve, then continue installation procedures. From the bottom side of the sleeve, gently roll the 2-cylinder sleeve O-rings into the two grooves on each sleeve. Apply motor oil to the O-rings and gently install the sleeves into the block until bottomed. CAUTION: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL SLEEVES WITHOUT LUBRICATING THE O-RINGS. FAILURE TO LUBRICATE O-RINGS COULD RESULT IN TORN OR DAMAGED O-RINGS THAT WOULD NOT BE EVIDENT UNTIL ENGINE WAS STARTED. INCORRECTLY INSTALLED O-RINGS CAN RESULT IN CATASTROPHIC ENGINE DAMAGE. NOTE: REFER TO THE OEM SERVICE MANUAL FOR ALL TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS PISTON RING PREPARATION Wiseco V-Rod pistons incorporate an advanced 2 ring system • The top ring is file-fit, and as such, requires that the end gap must be clearanced. The proper end gap clearance is .016-.018″ with the ring installed squarely in the bore. The top ring must be installed on the piston with the dot marking toward the top of the piston. • The oil ring is comprised of the expander and two rails. Install the expander first, and then the rails. Check to make sure the expander tips have not overlapped. It is not necessary to clearance the end gaps on the oil rails. The rails should be installed without modification. PISTON INSTALLATION The Wiseco V-Rod big bore kit is supplied with pistons that are front and rear cylinder specific. Install the front piston 4792M10795 in the front cylinder with the arrow facing the front of the engine. Install the rear piston 4793M10795 in the rear cylinder with the arrow facing the front of the engine. A piston ring compressor is required to install the pistons into the cylinders. Front of engine ➔ 4792M10795 ( Front piston) 4793M10795 ( Rear piston) FWD 4793M10795 FWD 4792M10795 For further information call the Wiseco Tech Line:

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TRIUMPH 750 BIG BORE CYLINDER AND PISTON SET FOR 650 TWINS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Step 1. Unpack your big bore kit and inspect the contents. There should be the following: 1. Cylinder x l 2. piston with wristpin x 2 3. Hepolite piston ring set x l 4. Special big bore head gasket Step 2. Thoroughly wash the cylinder bores with soap and water. Do not use solvent! Dry bores with air or a lint free towel and let completely air dry. This step is most important and will greatly extend the life of the pistons. Step 3. Following the procedure outlined in your service manual, drain the fuel tank, remove the exhaust system, fuel tank and carburetors. Have a catch basin handy to capture any fuel that may spill from the carburetors, as fuel is highly flammable and can be ignited by a dryer pilot light etc. from a long distance. Clean up any spilled fuel immediately and dispose of away from any source of ignition. Store the fuel tank in a well vented area, outdoors is best, in the event your fuel taps should leak. Step 4. Remove the rocker boxes by slacking the 9 head bolts a little at a time in a star pattern. Remove the 6 nuts at the front and back of the head. Remove the 4 corner rocker box bolts. Remove the head bolts and rocker boxes. Remove the push rods. Examine the push rods to insure they are straight and the ends are tight. Replace any suspect push rod. Step 5. Remove the cylinder head. Now would be a good time for guide and valve renewal. This is best left to an expert. More cylinder heads have been ruined by auto machine shops than by hard use. If you do not have a qualified shop in your area please call for a referral. Step 6. Remove the push rod tubes and the cylinder base nuts. Clip rubber bands around the top of the lifters to keep them from dropping into the crankcase. Have a few lint free rags handy. Bring the pistons to the top of the stroke and begin lifting off the cylinder. If the cylinder is hard to lift off, thread a nut on one of the base studs and use a tire lever to pry against the bottom fin close to its base using the stud as a fulcrum. After partially raising the cylinder stuff the crankcase mouth with rags to keep any carbon or broken rings from entering the crankcase. These will remain in place until step 12. Step 7. Leaving the rags in the crankcase remove the wrist pin circlips from the pistons and discard. Heat the piston and gently push the wrist pin out. Do not use force as this can damage the connecting rod or its bearings. Be sure to account for all the clips as one left in the crankcase can do extensive damage. Step 8. Clean all gasket surfaces to remove any traces of the old gaskets. Use Pennatex gasket remover if needed. Be very careful not to scratch the gasket surface or to allow any gasket particles to enter the crankcase. Even a small bit of gasket can stop the oil pump from working! Step 9. Note the direction and location of the lifters. These must be replaced in the same position as when removed. Remove the lifter blocks from the old cylinder. Start by removing the small retaining bolts and washers. The lifter blocks are extremely fragile and are easily broken. They are also very expensive so great care must be taken in this step! Triumph special tool 222-616008 is advisable here. Apply pressure to the center of the block only. Do not press against the tangs that locate the lifter! A tool can be fabricated using two dowels to locate in the lifter holes. Step 10. Clean and examine the lifters and camshaft faces. Clean the lifter blocks and remove the sealing oring under the locating flange. Replace these with the new orings in the gasket set. Apply a smear of gasket sealant to the lifter block oring and press into the new cylinder. Be sure the lifter block is parallel with the bores and the grooved block is on the exhaust side. Apply a small amount of assembly oil to the lifters and replace in the exact position they came from

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Crankshaft Durability of Rover K-Series Engine: Comparison of ENGDYN Analysis with Dynamic Measurements

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-11-2010

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The Rover K-Series engine has now been in production for over 10 years, initially of 1.4 L capacity. Since then 1.1L, 1.6L, 1.8L and 1.8L VVC (Variable Valve Control) have been introduced with an accumulative build of two million engines since 1989. The 1.8L engine is also built under official licence for Lotus and Caterham, and also in the MGF motorsport series. The K-Series is an attractive buy due to its reduced cost and low weight, which is a necessity for sport cars. This report aims to validate Ricardo ENGDYN software with respect to Rover K-Series 1.8 Litre VVC crankshaft durability. The software will be used to output the behaviour of the crankshaft under as realistic conditions as possible. The oil film thickness and bearing load characteristics of the crankshaft through the running range of the engine will be compared to results obtained from in-house software. The torsional and bending vibration output from ENGDYN will then be compared with results obtained from dynamic measurements. Finally, the crank stress and durability results from ENGDYN will be compared to strain gauge measurements at comparative points on the crankshaft. ENGDYN is a computer program used for analysing the dynamics of the engine, and in particular the crankshaft and its interaction with the cylinder block. In this analysis the software will be used to predict the time-domain response of the 3-dimensional vibration of the crankshaft coupled to the block by way of a non-linear oil film. When this loading and motion has been calculated the software can perform a fast Fourier transform to break down the time-domain response into its corresponding frequencies. This allows the results to be post-processed in the frequency domain. 2 Method of Analysis 2.1 Engine Specifications Configuration: in-line 4 Fuel: Gasoline Cylinder bore: 80 mm Piston stroke: 89.3 mm Swept volume: 1.8L Crankpin Peak Power: 107 KW @ 7000 rpm Peak Torque: 174 N/m @ 4500 rpm Engine running range: 750-7200 rpm 2.2 Component Modelling 2.2.1 Crankshaft To perform the analysis within ENGDYN two crankshaft models were created. These included a complete stiffness representation of the crank (excluding the crank nose hub and the flywheel), and a detailed model of the crank from main bearing 4 to main bearing 5, with mesh density increased around the fillets. ENGDYN can however perform crank analysis of any portion of the crank as long as the model incorporates at least two main journal bearings. Features such as bolt holes and oil drilling were omitted on both models, which were meshed using solid tetrahedral elements

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TOYOTA Engine Intermittent No Crank/ No Start REPAIR

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 11-10-2011

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Some Highlander, Matrix, and RAV4 vehicles may intermittently exhibita”no crank”condition. The engine can usually be started after moving the shift lever to the Neutral position orby cycling the shift lever in and out of the Park position. Are vised neutral starts witch assembly is available to address this condition. Warranty Information OP CODE DESCRIPTION MODEL TIME OFP T1 T2 Highlander 0.9 Matrix 0.5 832131 R&RP ark/Neutral Position Switch Assembly RAV4 0.7 84540-42010 17 99 APPLICABLE WARRANTY •Thisrepairis covered under the Toyota Comprehensive Warranty. This warranty is in effect for 36 monthsor36,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle’sin-service date. •Warranty application is limited to occurrence of the specified condition described in this bulletin.

Corolla & Matrix 2005 – 2006 1ZZ-FE ENGINE NO START OR EXTENDED CRANK CONDITION

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 29-05-2011

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Some 2005 and 2006 model year Corolla and Matrix vehicles equipped with a 1ZZ–FE engine may exhibit a “no start” or “extended crank” condition. This may be caused by insufficient fuel pressure after the vehicle has been parked for a period of time. The fuel pump assembly manufacturing process has been improved to correct this condition. Applicable Vehicles S 2005 – 2006 model year Corolla and Matrix (2WD) vehicles equipped with the
1ZZ–FE engine. Parts Information PREVIOUS PART NUMBER 77020–02180 77144–04010 77169–02050 CURRENT PART NUMBER Same Same Same PART NAME Fuel Suction w/Pump & Gauge Tube Assembly Fuel Pump Gauge etainer
Fuel Suction Tube Set Gasket

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