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HARLEY DAVIDSON DYNA CHROME COIL COVER KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 06-03-2011

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Installation 1. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the maxi-fuse. 2. Note the position of each spark plug wire in the ignition coil, then disconnect the two wires. 3. If there is an existing coil cover: Remove and discard the coil-cover mounting screws and spacers. Remove and discard the coil cover. If there is not an existing coil cover: Remove and discard the two coil mounting screws. 4. See the Service Parts illustration. Obtain the coil cover bracket (3), two long screws (4) and two spacers (2) from the kit. 5. Insert the screw into one of the holes in the bracket as shown, through a spacer, and into a coil mounting hole. Repeat with the second screw and spacer. 6. Assemble the coil to the electrical caddy with the two screws. Tighten the screws to 50 in-lbs (5.6 Nm). 7. Obtain the new chrome coil cover (1) from the kit. Position the cover over the coil, and fasten to the coil cover bracket with the three chrome screws (6) and washers (7) from the kit. Do not fully tighten the screws at this time. 8. Connect the spark plug wires through the holes in the side of the coil cover onto the correct coil terminals. 9. Adjust the cover to center the spark-plug wire boots in the coil cover holes for best appearance. Tighten the three chrome screws securely 10. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to install the maxi-fuse

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Harley-Davidson The WHEELDOCK EZ-UP Center Stand Installation MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-03-2012

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Unlike other center stands, the WHEELDOCK EZ UP stand requires very little effort to operate and can usually be done while still on the bike by simply pushing down on the foot lever with your left foot. Once you feel both feet of the center stand in contact with the ground, transfer your weight up off of the seat and onto the foot lever of the center stand. The stand should rotate under the bike and a bit forward lifting the bike quite easily. CAUTION: Never attempt to raise the bike with a passenger on board, as you will damage the foot lever. You can also raise the bike on the center stand by using the following traditional method: Place the bike on the side stand and step off to the side. From the left side of the bike, push the bike up to the vertical position and press down on the foot lever until both feet of the stand are in contact with the ground. Now apply weight to the foot lever while lifting up on the bike. For cleaning the rear wheel: first place a ½-inch piece of plywood under the stand and use this (beside the bike) method for placing the bike up on the plywood spacer; this will allow the wheel to rotate freely for cleaning. Do not try this while on the bike, as it will require too much foot pressure on the lever. You now have two options to get the bike off of the stand: You can simply rock the bike forward, or put the bike in gear and drive off in most cases as long as you are parked on a flat, level surface. Tips for solving common questions: If you have the correct height stand and you still have difficulty getting the bike up on the stand check the following: the bike must be in neutral, the wheel should be straight forward and not cocked, do not hold the front brake lever and make sure you have 15 lb or more air pressure in the rear suspension. These are the most common problems we encounter

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Harley-Davidson touring bikes WHEELDOCK EZ-UP Center Stand Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 18-04-2012

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Unlike other center stands, the WHEELDOCK EZ UP stand requires very little effort to operate and can usually be done while still on the bike by simply pushing down on the foot lever with your left foot. Once you feel both feet of the center stand in contact with the ground, transfer your weight up off of the seat and onto the foot lever of the center stand. The stand should rotate under the bike and a bit forward lifting the bike quite easily. CAUTION: Never attempt to raise the bike with a passenger on board, as you will damage the foot lever. You can also raise the bike on the center stand by using the following traditional method: Place the bike on the side stand and step off to the side. From the left side of the bike, push the bike up to the vertical position and press down on the foot lever until both feet of the stand are in contact with the ground. Now apply weight to the foot lever while lifting up on the bike. For cleaning the rear wheel: first place a ½-inch piece of plywood under the stand and use this (beside the bike) method for placing the bike up on the plywood spacer; this will allow the wheel to rotate freely for cleaning. Do not try this while on the bike, as it will require too much foot pressure on the lever. You now have two options to get the bike off of the stand: You can simply rock the bike forward, or put the bike in gear and drive off in most cases as long as you are parked on a flat, level surface. Tips for solving common problems: If you have the correct height stand and you still have difficulty getting the bike up on the stand check the following: the bike must be in neutral, the wheel should be straight forward and not cocked, do not hold the front brake lever and make sure you have 15 lb or more air pressure in the rear suspension. These are the most common problems we encounter.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME SEAT POST REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 11-02-2011

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REMOVE 2 1 is00000 1. Seat Post 2. Screw Figure 2. Lower Seat Post 1. Refer to Owners Manual to remove the seat. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 2. Disconnect battery negative cable. 3. On motorcycles equipped with oxygen sensors, disconnect the rear sensor connector. 4. See Figure 2. Remove screw (2) and washer from the lower seat post (1) and discard. -J04294 1 of 2 5. Disconnect spark plug wires and primary wire from ignition coil. 6. See Figure 3. Loosen the bracket screws (1). Remove seat post screw (2) and seat post with ignition coil and cover. 7. See Figure 4. Remove coil cover screw (5) and cover (4) from stock seat post (1). 8. Remove ignition coil screws (3) and coil (2) from seat post. 2 1 is04241 1. Bracket Screws 2. Upper Seat Post Screw Figure 3. Upper Seat Post Fasteners 2 5 1 3 4 is04337 1. Seat Post 2. Ignition Coil 3. Coil Screw 4. Coil Cover 5. Coil Cover Screw Figure 4. Install Ignition Coil to Seat Post INSTALL 1. See Figure 4. Install ignition coil (2) to new seat post using screws (3). Tighten ignition coil screws to 10-15 ft-lbs (13.6-20.3 Nm) . 2. Install coil cover (4) to seat post with screw (5) and tighten to 30-40 in-lbs (3.4-4.5 Nm) . 3. See Figure 1. Place seat post (1) in position and attach lower post with screw (2), washers (3) and dome nut (4). Tighten screw (2) to 10-15 ft-lbs (13.6-20.3 Nm) . 4. See Figure 3. Attach upper seat post with screw (2). Tighten screw (2) to 12-15 ft-lbs (16.2-20.3 Nm) . Tighten bracket screws (1) to 12-15 (16.2-20.3 Nm) . 5. Connect primary wire to ignition coil. 6. Connect spark plug wires to ignition coil. The rear cylinder plug wire attaches to the top coil post. Ensure that spark plug wire boots are fastened securely. 7. Connect rear oxygen sensor connector, if equipped. 8. Reconnect battery negative cable

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HI-4 DUAL FIRE MOTORCYCLE IGNITION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Turn ignition switch off and disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Refer to Figure 3. Remove OE ignition module and wire harness (items 1-4). You will disconnect two wires at the coil (15), a wire going to the VOES (Vacuum Operated Electrical Switch) (18), a black ground wire at the ignition module, and the 3 pin plug (20) that connects to the sensor plate (11). Refer to shop manual for locations. 3. Remove ignition cover plates and gasket (items 5- 9). This will require drilling out two rivets. The rivets will later be replaced with two supplied self- threading screws. 4. In order to remove the sensor plate cable, the cable plug (20) must be removed first. Use needle nose pliers to pull the terminals out of the plug. Then pull the cable through the exit hole at the bottom of the timing cover. 5. Note location of sensor plate (11). There is a V notch in the sensor plate used for alignment. When you install the HI-4, you should align the V notch in the same location. This should set the timing close enough to start the engine. Remove and save the two standoffs and washers (10). Remove the sensor plate (11). HI-4 INSTALLATION Refer to Figure 4. The HI-4 requires use of the OE timing rotor P/N 32402-83 (used only on 1985 and newer models). If you have an older model or are not sure, check the rotor (9) for the correct part number. For models prior to 1980, use the supplied 10-32 x ¾”bolt and washer to mount the rotor. 1. Install the HI-4 system in place of the OE breaker or sensor plate. Rotate the HI-4 about 90 degrees to give better access to the cable exit hole. Install the HI-4 first, then push the cable through the hole. On some early models it may be necessary to enlarge the wire harness exit hole in the gear cover. Align the V notch on the HI-4 same as the OE plate you removed. Use the OE standoffs to secure the HI-4. You must use lockwashers under the standoffs for proper clearance between the HI-4 and cover plate. Do not fully tighten the standoffs until the timing has been set. 2. Route the HI-4 wire harness along the frame rails up to the coil. Make sure that harness will not be chafed or burned by exhaust heat. Secure harness with tie wraps. Do not install timing cover. HI-4 HOOKUP Crimp terminals and hardware are supplied for your convenience. Use the ring terminals for coil hookup. Use male-female quick disconnects for connections to the tach and vacuum switch (VOES). Tape up any unused wires. 1. Circuit Breaker Cover Screws (2) 2. Circuit Breaker Cover 3. Circuit Breaker Cover Gasket 4. Breaker Plate Screws (2) 5. Breaker Plate Screw Lockwashers & Washers (2 each) 6. Retainer (1971 to early 1972) 7. Circuit Breaker Cam Bolt 8. Breaker Plate Assembly 9. Breaker Cam 10. Advance Assembly 11. Gear Case Cover 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Damage will result if the brown tach wire comes in contact with +12V. Figure 1. Harley-Davidson®OE Points System
9000-4002A REV A 3 2/05 1. Identify switched +12 volt wire and tach wire (if equipped) going to the coil. Refer to your service manual, or reconnect the battery and use a test light or voltmeter. The switched +12 volt wire will be hot when the ignition key is turned on. 2. Refer to Figure 5. Connect the HI-4 red wire and switched +12 volt wire to Coil positive. 3. The HI-4 white wire is not used and should be taped. 4. Connect the HI-4 black wire to the Coil negative terminal. 5. Connect the HI-4 green wire to the vacuum switch (Figure 3, item 18), if used. 6. Connect the HI-4 brown wire to the tach wire, if equipped with tach. Tape up if unused. 7. The HI-4 is grounded via the timing housing; a separate ground connection is not required. 8. Reconnect battery ground cable. Verify proper ground connections to the frame and engine. VOES HOOKUP The OE vacuum switch (VOES) is normally an open circuit. Above 3-5 inch-Hg vacuum, the VOES closes and grounds the vacuum input on the OE ignition module. This increases the total advance generated by the OE ignition module. Vacuum advance improves part throttle 17 16 1. Cover Screws (2) 2. Ignition Timer Cover 3. Ignition Module 4. Timer Plate Screws (2) 5. Washers (2) 6. Screws & Washers (2 each) 7. Shield 8. Sensor 9. Trigger Rotor Bolt 10. Timer Plate 11. Trigger Rotor 12. Advance Assembly 13. Gear Case Cover 14. Ignition Coil 15. Spark Plug Wires (2) 16. Ignition Coil Terminal (FX) 17. Ignition Coil Terminal (FL) 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Most motorcycle coils do not have terminals marked. Use either terminal for Coil+ (positive) and the other one for Coil- (negative). Warning: The HI-4 (8-1100) Dual Fire ignition will not work with 2 plugs per head, dual coil application. Damage will result if attempted. Use the HI-4 (8-2100) single fire ignition for 2 plugs per head applications

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240 Sport Bike Swingarm Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 02-12-2010

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Motorcycles can be dangerous if not properly maintained and ridden safely. RC Components has no control over the usage of any of its parts. RC Components expects its customers to exercise good judgment as to the proper selection, installation, use, and maintenance of any parts. RC Components assumes no responsibility for damage or injury of any kind because of the misuse or improper application of any parts in any way by any person. RC Components expects the end user to exercise good judgment. • Before installing this kit, read through these directions completely. This will familiarize you with the way in which the parts fit together and the tools needed to complete the job. • Before performing any installation steps, disconnect the motorcycle’s battery to eliminate any possibility of electrical damage or personal injury due to a short circuit. Part Number: NSTSB240 Page 2 of 12 Materials Needed: • Hardware Kit. Kit includes (See picture below): 04-05 GSXR750-600 & 03-04 GSXR1000 Kit Inboard Brake Kit Part Number: INSTSB240 Page 3 of 12 04-05 GSXR750-600 & 03-04 GSXR1000 Kit for Stock Caliper 08 Busa Kit for Inboard Brake Part Number: INSTSB240 Page 4 of 12 05-06 GSXR 1000 Kit for Inboard Brake
Part Number: INSTSB240 Page 5 of 12 05-06 GSXR1000 Kit for Stock Caliper 99-07 Busa Kit for Inboard Brake
Part Number: INSTSB240 Page 6 of 12 99-07 Busa Kit for Stock Caliper Tools Needed: • Bike Specific Service Manual (Refer to manual for all torque specs and tools that are not specified by RC Components.) • Assorted hand tools, metric and standard sockets and wrenches. • Hoist or other means to lift bike. • Torque wrench • Loctite, and anti-seize • Chain breaker • Bike specific sockets are required for some bikes. (Refer to factory service manual). • Die grinder (for chain to frame clearance on some models) Installation Instructions 1.) Stock Component Removal To begin installing this kit it is necessary to raise the rear end of the bike using a suitable hoist. Be sure to keep the bike centered on the front wheel to keep the bike from tipping over. Once you have the bike lifted and properly secured, begin with the removal of the following stock components ( For detailed information on the removal of these parts, please consult your factory manual) : 1.) Muffler or mufflers 2.) Left side and lower body panels 3.) Voltage regulator (08 model only) 4.) Front sprocket cover 5.) Front sprocket 6.) Chain

Baron Tachometer Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Some models like Harley-Davidson, Kawasaki Vulcan FI models, Suzuki FI models, Honda VTX 1800 and others may require the included Tach Adapter. See separate instructions for installation of the adaptor. Wiring instructions for 7-Color LED Tachs Wire Baron’s Tach to one of your motorcycle’s ignition coils via the following schematic: • Green wire of tach to NEGATIVE terminal of coil (see FAQ to determine your bike’s negative side) • Black wire of tach to CHASSIS (Ground) • Red wire to of tach to POSITIVE terminal of coil (or other switched 12 volt source) • Red wire from control box to POSITIVE terminal of coil (or other switched 12 volt source) • Black wire from control box to CHASSIS (ground) • Control box plugs into tach with the 4-way connector • Button plugs into the control box. Button can be mounted on handlebar or any other convenient place Wiring instructions for White- or Black-Face Tachs Wire Baron’s Tach to one of your motorcycle’s ignition coils via the following schematic: • Green wire to NEGATIVE terminal of coil (see FAQ to determine your bike’s negative side) • Black wire to CHASSIS (Ground) • Red wire to POSITIVE terminal of coil (or other switched 12 volt source) • Blue wire to POSITIVE terminal of coil (or other switched 12 volt source) General mounting instructions (1) Mount new Baron Tach on handlebar in your preferred position. Ideal location is between handlebar risers. If mounted off- center, you can rotate tach face back to vertical (or any position you desire) by first loosening tach unit’s set screw (found either in handlebar area of housing or underside of housing, depending on tach style), then unscrewing tach housing’s bezel, rotating tach, re-installing bezel and retightening set screw. Secure handlebar clamp by first tightening the rear, flat side of clamp all the way down, then tighten tapered front side of clamp until tach does not rotate. There should be a small gap on the pointed side and no gap on the flat side when the clamp is correctly tightened. (2) Route tach’s wire harness lead to coil as necessary for simplest and cleanest installation. Feed tach harness alongside bike’s wiring harness (passing behind any plastic frame covers), then downward toward coil. (3) Make your wire connections as recommended above. Use the spade and piggyback connectors

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MPS Sport Bike Auto Shift Installation Manuals

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 21-02-2012

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The first thing to do is remove the seat, fuel tank, and possibly the front fairing if equipped. You will need plenty of room to work. Electrical Connections – You will need to locate and test a few things on your bike before you start wiring. A good ground, an ignition switched 12 volt power source, the horns, and the ignition coils. We have plug n play style harnesses available for some bikes. Check the web site for specific models. Control Box Wiring Coils – Most four cylinder motorcycles use either a individual firing system or a waste spark system. Waste spark is by far the most common. All four cylinder bikes with only two coils use a waste spark system. Most late model four cylinder sport bikes use waste spark systems even though they have four individual coils. Bikes with a waste spark systems will need the 360 calibrated unit. The 360 calibrated Sport Bike Autoshifts are identified by the 360 engraved into the box below the wire lead exit. The P/N for these boxes has the 360 as a suffix. (P/N 1-0299-360) Some of the newest fuel injected bikes (Hayabusa, GSXR1000, ZX12) that have cam sync sensors are individual firing. These bikes will require 720 calibration and will have no outside identifiers and the P/N 1-0299. The Sport Bike Auto Shift has four brown wire leads that are connected to the negative of each individual coil on a four coil system. You will notice that the connector for the four brown wires has a molded in ridge that marks the brown wire that is used as the rpm sensor. This must be connected to the number one cylinder coil negative wire.

Harley-Davidson Electronic Ignition Module Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-04-2012

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Step 1: Switch main dashboard switch to “off” position (Ignition& light switch) Step 2: Disconnect negative (ground) cable from the Battery Step 3: Remove the Condenser and Breaker points from the circuit breaker timing base. Step 4: Disconnect advance/ retard cable from timing base Step 5: Remove timing base from timer shaft and housing (see your manual for instructions) Step 6: Remove circuit breaker wire stud or circuit breaker to coil wire assembly from timing base Step 7: Remove circuit breaker wire from Ignition coil, and mark terminal on coil with piece of tape. Step 8: Install the Electronic Ignition Module on the timing base. Mount this short black wire to one on the timer base screws by keeping some slack in this wire so the timing base can turn free. Solder the flag terminal to this short black wire and mount it under the timer to motor bolt. This way of mounting provides a much better grounding. Do NOT use the screws (number 1 or 2 screws from picture below) from the timing base!!!! Step 9: Now three wires pass this hole via the rubber grommet. Figure 1 Figure 2 Step 10: Reinstall the timer base on the timer shaft housing, and keep some slack in the wires before protruding the hole in the timer shaft housing, and secure with ground spring and cover retainer. Reconnect the advance/retard cable to the timer base. Step 11: Route the two long wires to the ignition coil. Check in the HD service manual for a proper route to the ignition coil. (Keep away from hot surfaces like exhaust systems). Cut the wires to the exact length necessary for mounting. Step 12: Determine the exact length of the wire loom. Keep in mind that one end of the loom enters the timer shaft housing by 1cm. Cut the loom to the proper length. Step 13: Insert both wires in the loom. Strip both wire ends and solder the two flag terminals on the wires. Step 14: Connect the red wire to the ignition coil, on the terminal where the 6 or 12 volt is supplied to. This terminal has at minimum one wire connected which runs to the main switch. Step 15: Connect the black wire to the ignition coil on the terminal which is empty, and has piece of tape on it. (Old place where the circuit breaker wire was connected to) Step 16: Install the trigger rotor on the timer shaft cam, and tighten the hex screw by using the hex key tool. Do not over tighten the screw! Step 17: Check for clearance between trigger rotor and Electronic Ignition Module. Appropriate clearance is between 0,5mm and 1,5mm . Minor adjustments can be made by unlocking the two screws and slightly shift/move the Electronic Ignition Module. Check if the rotor moves free. Timing instructions: Remove the spark plugs from the engine, but keep them connected to the spark coil cables and engine ground. This enables normal operation of the spark, and prevents unwanted engine firing on compression stroke. See service manual or handbook for timing instructions of your model Step 18: Reconnect the negative (ground) cable to the battery. Step 19: Switch main power to “on” position. The red light in the Electronic Ignition Module might already light up. If not, turn the kick starter slowly. The red light is on while charging (closed points)the Ignition coil, facing solid metal of the trigger rotor. The light goes off (open points) when the end of the solid surface of the trigger rotor passes the centre of the Electronic Ignition Module. At that point a spark is generated by the coil

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Triumph Bonneville America And Speedmaster The Freak Installation Instructions and Parts List

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs

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