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BMW Motorcycle R 1100 RS – Rear Frame

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 16-11-2010

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Complaint: On R 1100 RS models (above serial numbers only) with luggage racks, a crack may develop in the rear section of the frame (see drawing) if a load exceeding the permitted 11 lb. is applied to the luggage rack, or if a top case is used. Remedy: Please check all R 1100 RS models (in serial number range above) which pass through your workshops for cracks on the rear section of the frame. Cracked frames should be exchanged with the new part listed below. The new rear frame has been reinforced to use with larger loads. New Part: 46 51 2 320 698 (reinforced rear frame) Caution: Since the introduction of the rear luggage grid to accommodate the 33 liter removable top box, it is vital that this luggage grid and 33 liter top box not be installed on any of the above unless the reinforced rear frame is fitted, or a frame reinforcement kit is installed (a kit will be made available in the future to reinforce the rear frame of the above models, in order to install the 33 liter top box). The new reinforced rear frame (46 51 2 320 698) has been fitted since May 1995 production. Use of the new rear section of frame on an earlier production bike requires a new rear section of the dual seat as follows: Parts 52 53 2 325 121 Flash Green 52 53 2 325 122 Red Needed: 52 53 2 325 123 Black 52 53 2 325 120 Light Gray 52 53 2 325 211 Anthracite Warranty: Please explain to your customers that the top case can only be installed on bikes with reinforced rear frames. Claims for frame cracks which result from operation with large loads beyond specification will not be honored under the terms of the Limited Motorcycle Warranty.

1994 – 2004 BMW Motorcycle History

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-11-2010

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1994 brought many changes to BMW, most obviously by the introduction of the “R259″ series twins and the elimination of the old standby “Airhead” twins that had been BMW’s trademark for seven decades. While it is interesting to look at all the technologies introduced during the 1994 to 2004 time block, it is also exciting to look into what was going on as far as changes in BMW more esoteric than measurable. In this author’s opinion there were unspoken changes in BMW’s mindset and philosophy. BMW had forged it’s reputation for long lasting, simple machines built to the highest standards and quality; aimed at a dwindling, older (OK, Jeff, more mature) market of enthusiastic but eccentric riders. They built motorcycles that were easy for the owners to maintain and modify to fit their specific wants. BMW had always built their bikes their way; often it seemed like they did so in spite of what the younger and upwardly mobile riders were looking for. By 1994, the airhead was simply not a sellable motorcycle; the buying market was younger and wanted performance in line with what the Japanese products offered at much lower prices. The K 75/100 series that were so far ahead of their time in 1984 when they were introduced were also showing their age. No doubt, BMW knew this was coming many years before the new “Oil Head” was introduced. They knew that the riding community had reduced its mean age substantially. The younger riders had money to spend on a bike that had to be BMW, yet had to be totally more modern both in performance and in perception than what BMW had been selling. Thus, the R259 was born. The Birth of the R259 Twins The new BMW corporate mindset, if you will, was no longer concerned with selling motorcycles that would be handed down from one generation to the next, nor was BMW concerned about ease of maintenance with standard hand tools. Although the new bikes were still able to outlast the riders, the concern for building units to last a quarter-million miles was not so much in the forefront of the design. The new models would have to be powerful, fast, handle better than anything on the road; they would need to offer a standard of technology that the Japanese would never build. They should be complex pieces of rolling art. Most obvious, though, was that they would build a product aimed at an entirely new market of riders who would likely not be interested in maintaining the bikes themselves or really understanding the nuances of design. The new customers BMW was looking for were serious riders who were more interested in the fun and excitement of riding than they were in savoring the history of the older designs

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Kawasaki Teryx Dash Frame Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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The BRP Dash Frame mounts in place of the factory cup holder/storage pocket. Remove the screws holding the cup holder or storage pocket from the back of the dash and remove it. Hold the Dash Frame up on your dash. The top of the frame includes a channel that your dash slips into to provide support. Press the frame firmly up and against the dash. Be sure the frame is centered and straight. Using the frame as your template drill out the two top holes using a 13/64″ drill. Each hole is located at the top corner of the frame. Alternatively, you can mark the location of the holes, then drill them out with the frame removed. Using the smaller button head bolts supplied with this kit, along with the nylock nut and rubber backed washer, mount each of the two top corners of the frame. Use caution when tightening however. The angle of the dash frame is different than the angle of your plastic dash. The two bolts are only needed to snug the frame against your dash. You should only snug the bolt up, but don’t tighten it down. Looking from the back of the dash, you’ll see that the rubber washer does not lay flat against the plastic of the dash. This is correct. Again, these bolts are only to snug the frame against your dash and should not be tightened down. Doing so could damage your dash. The supplied nuts are nylock and will not back off even though the bolt is not tightened.

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SUZUKI 2005-2006 GSX-R1000 MOTORCYCLES FRAME REINFORCEMENT BRACE INSTALLATION/FRAME REPLACEMENT

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Bodywork removal 1. Refer to section 8 of the service manual and remove the following: a) Right and left Under Cowlings (NOTE: Two of these screws will NOT be re-installed) b) Cover, Front Lower 2. Refer to section 7 of the service manual to remove the radiator mounting bolts. It is not necessary to remove the radiator. 3. Remove the Horn and the Front Engine Cover: a) Remove the Horn. b) Refer to page 3-5 of the service manual and remove the Front Engine Cover. (NOTE: This part will NOT be re-installed) NOTE: To view a video (approximately 10 minutes in length) of the inspection and installation procedure, click here (available on January 23, 2009). Frame inspection 1. Inspecting the frame for damage: a) Inspect the frame for cracks on the left and right sides of the frame as indicated in the photos and graphic below using the Dye Penetrant test kit which will be sent to your dealership by Jan.23th. This inspection has to be done not only on the outside but also on the inside of the frame spars. b) If no cracks are detected, thoroughly clean the frame area using a clean cloth (not a shop rag) and the kit cleaner to remove the dye penetrant used for the inspection. NOTE: * Protect the surrounding areas where inspection is not required from the overspray of the Dye Penetrant. * Read and understand the instructions and handling precautions of the Dye Penetrant before applying it. * If the motorcycle is excessively dirty, prewash it with soap and water before applying the Dye Penetrant.

Integral ABS and ASC – new Riding Dynamic Control Systems for BMW Motorcycles

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 16-11-2010

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Entering its next generation, BMW Motorrad Integral ABS is taking a quantum leap in the process of evolution, advancing from a stand-alone solution acting only on the brakes into a fully networked all-round system. Offering the new generation of Integral ABS, BMW Motorrad provides the foundation for additional dynamic riding control systems with a reduction in technical requirements and features. And following the customer’s wishes, this new generation also opens up the option in future for further-reaching rider assistance functions. The first step in this direction is BMW Motorrad ASC Automatic Stability Control available as of 2007. This system serving to control drive spin on a production motorcycles is being introduced as an optional extra on the touring models in the BMW K and Boxer Series. Once again, therefore, BMW is acting as the pioneer in the introduction of advanced safety technologies on the motorcycle. This further enhances the leadership which BMW Motorrad has shown in the area of active safety for more than 15 years. Choosing the right development partner for both systems, BMW Motorrad obviously had to focus on that partner’s specific competence in control technology and the networking of functions within the vehicle. In recent years, major car suppliers have become aware of the technical challenges presented by the motorcycle with its specific riding dynamics and the growing potential for motorcycle control systems in the market. The decisive point in preselection of the development partner was the willingness and ability to develop specialised solutions suitable for use on BMW motorcycles. So taking this into account, joint development of the new generation of ABS brake technology started together with Continental-Teves in early 2003. Integral ABS. BMW Motorrad’s new Integral ABS technology has been developed separately from the previous system and the entire layout of the system has been newly conceived from the ground up. Capitalising on progress in technology in both hydraulics and electronics, the development engineers have succeeded in simplifying the architecture of the system while at the same time enhancing its functions to an even higher standard. The result is supreme stopping power and very short stopping distances even without electrical power assistance on the brakes.

HARLEY DAVIDSON MID-FRAME AIR DEFLECTORS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 04-02-2011

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INSTALLATION Model Years 2001-2007 1. Refer to Owner’s Manual and remove seat. 2. Remove stock plastic cruise control cable clip from frame near end of fuel tank if equipped. 2 1 is04321a 1. Mounting Strap Assembly 2. Speed Nuts Figure 1. Install Speed Nuts to Mounting Strap 1 is04324a 1. Mounting Strap Assembly Figure 2. Mounting Strap Location – View of Frame from Above with Seat Removed 1 3 2 4 5 6 is04546a 1.3/4 in. long button head screw and 1 in. OD flat washer 2.7/8 in. long button head screw, P-clamp and 1 in. OD flat washer 3. Well nut, 3/4 in. long button head screw and 3/4 in. OD flat washer 4. U-clip 5. Right side deflector 6. Left side deflector Figure 3. Fastener Locations – View of Frame Rearward of Rear Cylinder, Engine Removed for Clarity 3. See Figure 1. Assemble speed nuts (2) to both ends of mounting strap (1) and align edges of nuts to angled ends of strap. -J04399 4. See Figure 2. Install mounting strap assembly (1) through window of frame. Position strap so speed nuts are aligned over the 1/4 inch diameter holes in frame as shown. 5. See Figure 3. Attach strap assembly to frame using a 3/4 inch length button head screw (1) and the 7/8 inch length button head screw (2) by inserting them from the underside of frame plate. Tighten screws enough to keep strap from moving and prevent it from shifting position during deflector installation. 6. Insert well nut (3) into underside of frame plate. Apply liquid soap to the outer surface of the well nut to ease installation. 7. Remove 3/4 inch screw (1), then position right side deflector as shown and secure with the 3/4 inch screw and 1 inch washer. Do not tighten. 8. Install screw and small washer (3). Do not tighten. 9. Firmly push the deflector against the outer side of frame and tighten screws to 25-35 in-lbs (2.8-3.9 Nm) . 10. Remove left side mounting strap screw (2). 11. Install cable clamp (Figure 5, Item 9) to cruise control cable (if equipped). 12. See Figure 3. Insert screw through cable clamp (if necessary), washer (2) and left side deflector (6) and install to mounting strap speed nut. Firmly push deflector against outside of rail and tighten screw to 25-35 in-lbs (2.8-3.9 Nm) .

2002-2003 Honda GL1800/ A Frame Weld REPAIR PROCEDURE OVERVIEW

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 14-12-2010

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If your inspection identifies a crack or cracks in or on either Left or Right lower crossmember frame welds, STOP – call your DSM or TechLine for further instructions. • If your inspection reveals no cracks, proceed to REPAIR PROCEDURE. NOTE: Verification of repair can also be found in the Dealer Responsibility Report and on the Honda Interactive Network (iN). If you have any questions about verification, please contact TechLine before proceeding. IMPORTANT: For complete Dealer and Welder Repair procedures, refer to the following items: • 2002-2003 GL1800/A Frame Weld Safety Recall Dealer Booklet (S0510) • Frame Weld Inspection Chart (S0513) You MUST provide your TIG welder with the following items: • 2002-2003 GL1800/A Frame Weld Safety Recall Welding Manual (S0511) • Welding Template Box (S0512) All of the above items were shipped to you with this Service Bulletin. If you need additional copies of the Dealer Booklet , Welding Manual , Welding Template Box , or Frame Weld Inspection Chart , you may order them at no cost from DDS at (440) 572-0725. For your reference, a brief repair procedure overview is provided below. Disassembly Overview You will be removing the following components from the vehicle as instructed in the Dealer Booklet : • Handlebar weights • Rear view mirrors • Swingarm pivot covers • Rider foot pegs • Seat • Side covers/Engine side covers • Fairing pockets • Fairing molding • Meter panel • Top shelter • Battery • Fuel tank • Main wiring harness ground • Front lower fairing • Front exhaust pipe protector • Muffler/exhaust pipe • Antenna Whip(s) • Coolant reserve tank • Center stand NOTE: You will need to remove any accessories that may contact the ground during the Welding and Re-assembly procedures. IMPORTANT: You MUST cover the following with RED duct tape for welder identification pur- poses: • Negative (-) and positive (+) battery cables • Fuel return hose end • Fuel feed hose end • Main wiring harness ground • Alternator • Exhaust ports Welding Overview A qualified TIG welder will weld the frame following the procedures in the 2002-2003 GL1800/A Frame Weld Safety Recall Welding Manual . Re-assembly Overview You will be inspecting the new TIG welds, painting the frame, and re-assembling the vehicle as detailed in the Dealer Booklet and Frame Weld Inspection Chart (S0513)

Honda VTX 1300 Trike Conversion Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-10-2010

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Removal of Original Parts Secure and raise the motorcycle 9 to 10 inches using a quality motorcycle lift. Remove the following from the vehicle. See OEM manual for detailed instructions. Items to be retained for reinstallation after modification are noted. · Rider’s Seat (to be re-installed without modification) · Passenger Seat (to be reinstalled without modification) NOTE: OEM front and rear seat mounting bolts and brackets to be retained and reused. · Left and right passenger foot rests. (to be re-installed later). · Mufflers (to be re-installed and relocated with minor modification) · Rear Fender (complete w/ sub frame and all attaching parts) · Swing Arm, Drive Shaft and Rear Wheel (complete w/ all attaching parts) · Rear brake Line to hard line in front of the Swing Arm. Core Return There are NO core return parts for this model. Honda VTX 1300 TRIKE CONVERSION CHAMPION TRIKES Installation Manual Page 7 of 16 Revision 2 3 Installation of Champion Trike Conversion Kit 3.1 Modify Frame and Passenger Footrests. a. Cut and remove passenger foot rest mount from OEM frame on both sides (left hand side picture shown) . Figure 1 b. Clean cut frame and paint black. c. Remove and secure Charcoal Canister. d. Cut and remove charcoal canister frame bracket. Figure 2 e. Clean cut frame and paint black

Suspension Basics for BMW Motorcycles

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 30-11-2010

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tires: Tires are the first part of any suspension system. The design of the tire and even the pressure you run can have a profound affect on the way your motorcycle handles. Stiff, low profile tires will give a sharper feel to the bike, as will higher tire pressures. Those of us who ride our GS’s off the road will decrease the tire pressure to about 50% of the street spec when we are in the dirt. The tire then becomes a very active part of the suspension, but will wallow like an old pig if not re-inflated when pressed back into pavement duty. It still surprises me when we have a customer complain that his BMW needs new shocks when they come in with nearly flat tires. It is possible that the best dollars-per- unit improvement you can make to your BMW may be in keeping the tires inflated. Chassis: There is not much that we can do about the chassis design, unless we are Troy the Welder, but it is a fact that different frames and swing arms flex differently and therefore are part of the suspension. On the Airheads, we often braced various parts of the frame and swing arms, resulting in improved handling that even mere mortals could appreciate. On the latest BMW’s it would take the likes of a Valentino Rossi to even notice if the parts were stiffened. Stiffer is not always better. One of the Japanese racing bike manufactures controls the stiffness of the frame in various areas to allow some flex for better handling. So, Mr. Rossi might not even like it if Troy stiffened his new BMW. Springs: Springs control the ride height of the motorcycle and the ability to allow for different loads. On most BMW’s there is a way to adjust the spring preload to some extent so that the ride can be optimized for a light rider or two-up operation with luggage. Dampers: Dampers control the speed and frequency at which the suspension operates by changing the kinetic (moving) energy to thermal (heat) energy. Without the damper, the suspension would oscillate as each movement occurred, resulting in decreased vehicle control. Dampers on BMW’s fall into two main groups. On airheads, older K bikes, F and G models, and the R1200 HP-2, the front dampers are integrated into the forks. On the rear of the above mentioned -3 – models, and on both ends of all the rest of the bikes, there is a more common shock absorber, around which the spring is located. The HP-2 uses an air spring and air dampened rear shock. Seat: OK, folks, this is here for my old buddy Jeff. We know that a seat isn’t part of suspension, but a bad one sure can make you miserable. We have sent dozens of seats to our friend Mike Harris for inexpensive mods that might improve your riding enjoyment more than any suspension changes you could make! Let us know if we can help you with this most important item

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BMW Airhead Side Braces Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 26-10-2010

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Figure B shows the upper end of the Airhead Side Brace where it attaches to the frame ( NOTE: Leave at least 1/2″ spacing below the bottom edge of the fuel tank ). Figure C shows how the Airhead Side Brace must clear the air inlet tubing Figure D showing how the lower edge (beveled end) fits the frame at the rear of the bike. Figure E shows one of the threaded cones properly welded to the frame, and painted. . Ensure Airhead Side Braces are fully assembled (threaded cones firmly bolted into the braces at both ends). 2. Hold Airhead Side Brace in their proper position (reference Figures A-D) to mark location where front and rear threaded cones will be welded to the frame. NOTE : The lower (rear) end of the Airhead Side Brace is beveled, for reference. NOTE : Make sure that both the left and right Airhead Side Braces are positioned equally. 3. Mark the frame and remove paint in the appropriate areas using emery cloth to prepare the frame surface for welding. NOTE : Measure and mark twice, weld once! 4. Hold assembled Airhead Side Braces in their appropriate positions and tack-weld at the top and bottom. Perform this step for both the top (front) and bottom (rear) ends of the Airhead Side Braces , on both sides of the bike. 5. Using removable tape, mark each Airhead Side Brace as either “left” or “right”, to make sure they are replaced onto the appropriate side of the bike after disassembly. 6. Remove the bolts, and the Airhead Side Braces from the tack-welded, threaded cones. Complete the welding of the threaded cone to the motorcycle frame at all 4 locations. 7. Clean/remove any weld splatter, and paint to protect threaded cone and frame from corrosion (see Figure E). 8. Re-assemble Airhead Side Braces onto threaded cones maintaining original left side/right side orientation. NOTE : The lower (rear) end of the Airhead Side Brace is beveled, for reference. 9. Torque hex bolts to 7 ft/lbs