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BMW Motorcycle R 1100 RS – Rear Frame

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 16-11-2010

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Complaint: On R 1100 RS models (above serial numbers only) with luggage racks, a crack may develop in the rear section of the frame (see drawing) if a load exceeding the permitted 11 lb. is applied to the luggage rack, or if a top case is used. Remedy: Please check all R 1100 RS models (in serial number range above) which pass through your workshops for cracks on the rear section of the frame. Cracked frames should be exchanged with the new part listed below. The new rear frame has been reinforced to use with larger loads. New Part: 46 51 2 320 698 (reinforced rear frame) Caution: Since the introduction of the rear luggage grid to accommodate the 33 liter removable top box, it is vital that this luggage grid and 33 liter top box not be installed on any of the above unless the reinforced rear frame is fitted, or a frame reinforcement kit is installed (a kit will be made available in the future to reinforce the rear frame of the above models, in order to install the 33 liter top box). The new reinforced rear frame (46 51 2 320 698) has been fitted since May 1995 production. Use of the new rear section of frame on an earlier production bike requires a new rear section of the dual seat as follows: Parts 52 53 2 325 121 Flash Green 52 53 2 325 122 Red Needed: 52 53 2 325 123 Black 52 53 2 325 120 Light Gray 52 53 2 325 211 Anthracite Warranty: Please explain to your customers that the top case can only be installed on bikes with reinforced rear frames. Claims for frame cracks which result from operation with large loads beyond specification will not be honored under the terms of the Limited Motorcycle Warranty.

1999-2008 FLHT Series Harley- Davidson Trike Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 04-12-2010

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1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the ¼ – 20 Phillips head screw and Seat. 6. Disconnect negative Battery Terminal. 7. Remove two ¼ – 20 flanged hex nuts from the Stud Plate. Save the Passenger Handrail and two nuts. 8. Remove the Saddle Bags. 9. Remove the Right and Left Side Covers. 10. Remove Inner Tour Pak Molded Liner. 11. Disconnect the Tour Pak wiring. 12. Remove five ¼ – 20 HHCS, ¼ – 20 nyloc nuts, and Aluminum Spacers. 13. Remove Tour Pak from Top Support Tube. 14. Loosen Muffler Clamp on both Mufflers and remove 2 5/16 – 18 HHCS per Muffler. Remove and discard both Mufflers. Save Muffler Clamps. 15. Remove and discard Muffler Support Plates. 16. Remove both ¼ – 20 HHCS and Front Saddle Bag Brackets. 17. Remove the twelve 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS six 5/16 – 18 nuts, and the Left and Right Saddle Bag Guards. 18. Remove the Air Line Junction from the Rear Fender. 19. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness and remove from T-stud Clip.
6 20. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Phillips head screws. Remove the Left and Right Frame Covers. 21. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove and save the Top Tour Pak Support Tube Top. 22. Remove four 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove the Left and Right Rear Saddle Bag Guard Support Bracket. 23. Remove four 5/16 – 18 HHCS. Remove and save the Tour Pak Support Tube Bottom. 24. Remove and discard the Air Valve Assembly Bracket. 25. Remove four ½ – 13 HHCS and washers. Remove and discard both Rear Air Shock Absorbers. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. 26. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 27. Cut and remove Cable ties and un-clamp Wire Harness Loops from the Rear Brake Line along its length, including Clamps on Swing Arm. 28. Remove the 10 – 24 flanged HHCS and Rear Brake Hose Clamp from the Right Rear Fork Bracket. 29. Remove ¼ – 20 SHCS from Rear Stop Lamp Switch Bracket. 30. Remove and discard Banjo Bolt and Crush Washers on Rear Brake Caliper. 31. Remove the Spring Clip and nut from the Rear Axle. 32. Remove Rear Axle and Rear Wheel Spacers. 33. Push Rear Wheel Assembly forward and slip Rear Belt off of the Rear Sprocket. 34. Remove Rear Brake Caliper. 35. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly rearward. Remove one 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS from inside the Rear Fender well. 36. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly forward. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove Rear Fender. 37. Remove and save the two Retaining Washers from the Stud Plate. Remove and save the Stud Plate

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1981-1983 Yamaha Virago 750 & 920 Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 11-02-2012

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Start by loosening the rear cylinder down tube bolt located on the top of the old mufflers center collector in front of the rear tire. 2. Remove both of the front cylinder exhaust pipe head nuts and set them to the side for reuse with the MAC exhaust system. 3. Remove the right side passenger’s foot peg. Set the foot peg aside as you will need to reinstall it. 4. Remove the left side passenger’s foot peg. Set this foot peg aside as it will also need to be reinstalled. Note: When you remove this bolt the entire exhaust system will be loose and may fall. You will need to support the old exhaust at this point to keep from injuring yourself. Gently move the old exhaust system side to side to remove it from the rear cylinder down tube. Once the exhaust system is loose from the down tube remove the system from under the Virago. 5. Remove the bolt holding the rear brake pedal in place and remove the brake pedal from the motorcycle. Note: Set both the bolt and the pedal aside for reinstallation. 6. Next loosen the nut on the drivers right foot peg, 1 full turn to start with. Then remove the rear nut on the same foot peg. (Note: The bolt that this nut is on goes completely through the motorcycle. This is the center stand mounting bolt.) Now remove the front nut and set both aside for reuse with the MAC system. 7. Install the center stand stop bracket under the left passenger foot peg. Install this bracket with the 90° bend facing down and towards the rear tire. (Note: Center stand sop bracket in provided in the hardware kit and is approx. 5″ long with a 90° bend in it.) Adjust the bracket by one of the large bolts through the foot peg then through the bracket and then install it into the stock location. Put on one of the washers and a nut and snug up the nut. Lower the center stand until the center stand come in to contact with the bottom of the bracket. Tighten the nut until it will hold the bracket securely. 8. Install the rear down tube clamp onto the rear muffler and install the medium sized nut/bolt/washer onto the clamp just finger tight. 9. Install the (2) small bolts into the channel bracket on the rear muffler. Install the rear mounting bracket onto the two bolts and then install the washers and nuts onto each. Tighten the (2) nuts only slight amount so that you can slide the bracket front to rear to insure that when you install the bracket you position it properly. 10. Slide the rear pipe onto the rear down tube about ¼”to ¾” past the pre-cut slots on the rear muffler pipe. Slightly snug the clamp making sure that the position of the bolt and nut will not interfere with any moving parts. The final position of this bolt can hit the tire if it is not positioned properly. 11. Install the other large bolt into the right passenger and then through the top hole in the rear muffler mounting bracket. Insert the bolt into the stock location and install the washer and the nut. 12. Align the rear muffler and you can then tighten the nuts on the rear muffler mounting bracket, the cylinder down tube and the right side passenger foot peg.
13. Install the front muffler on the rear most mounting bolt of the drivers foot peg and put the stock nut back onto the bolt. Hand tighten the bolt only at this time. Note: Install the nut at this time is only to support the muffler and to insure that the pipe does not fall on the ground while you complete the next step. 14. Lift the front head pipe into position and start the stock nuts onto the studs. It is strongly recommended that you install new exhaust gasket at this time. Note: The new exhaust gaskets are not included in the kit but are available at your local Yamaha Dealer. After gaskets are installed hand tighten the front head pipe. 15. Remove the nut from the drivers foot peg bolt and reinstall the drivers foot peg. Note: Hand tighten only at this time. 16. Finish tightening the nuts on the front head pipes. (Install these nuts according to Yamaha’s Factory specifications.) Once the nuts are tightened on the head pipe you can then tighten the drivers foot peg nuts. 17. Reinstall the rear brake pedal and tighten the bolt that holds it on to factory specifications. 18. Check all of the bolts that you have installed of removed to insure that they are tight. 19. Start the motorcycle and check for any leaks. 20. You are finished with your new MAC Exhaust System.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON TRI-BAR AUXILIARY RUNNING LIGHT/ BRAKE LIGHT ASSEMBLY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-03-2011

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REMOVAL 1. Remove the saddlebags and left side cover. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 2. Remove the main fuse. 3. See Figure 1. Remove six flange nuts (1) from the right and left fender stud plates (2). 1 2 3 5 4 is04366a 1. Nut 2. Stud plate 3. Rear fascia 4. TORX screw 5. Lamp assembly Figure 1. FLHX Rear Fascia and Lamp 4. On the left side of the motorcycle, loosen the set screw and unscrew the radio antenna mast. 5. Gently open the adhesive conduit at the split line to release the rear fascia light harness. 6. At the rear of the motorcycle, spread the top of the fascia to release from the top studs at the side of the fender and then pull the bottom in a downward direction to release the fascia from the fender. If necessary, gently wiggle the fascia while pulling. 7. 2006-2008 models only: On the left side of the motorcycle, remove the bolt (with flat washer) to remove the passenger seat strap and saddlebag front mounting bracket from the chrome frame tube cover. 8. Remove the screw and chrome frame tube cover. NOTE ALL models: Make note of the wire routing and location of all cable straps. New light wiring installs the same way. 9. See Figure 2. Release the rear fascia light wires from the wire clip (1). Cut the cable straps (2) to release the rear fascia light harness (3) and radio antenna cable. 10. 2006-2008 models: Disconnect the rear fascia light connector [12B] located inboard of the upper frame tube. 2009 and later models: Disconnect the rear fascia light connector [12B] located to the rear of the fuse panel. 11. See Figure 1. Remove the two T-20 TORX® screws to release the light assembly from the fascia. Save the screws for installation of the new light. 1 3 4 2 is04378 1. Wire clip 2. Cable strap 3. Fascia light harness 4. Flange nut Figure 2. Rear Fascia Light Harness INSTALLATION 1. Route the rear fascia light wires forward through the cable clip at the top of the radio antenna bracket and then upward in front of the saddlebag rear mounting bracket to the inboard side of the upper frame tube. 2. 2006-2008 models: On the inboard side of the upper frame tube, mate the pin and socket housings of the rear fascia light connector [12]. 2009 and later models: To the rear of the fuse panel, mate the pin and socket housings of the rear fascia light connector [12]. 3. Using the slotted hole, install a new cable strap to secure the rear fascia light wires and radio antenna cable to the rear fender support. 4. Install a new cable strap to secure the rear fascia light wires and radio antenna cable to the shoulder of the upper frame tube (just in front of the air valve mounting bracket).

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BMW R 1150 RT-P SPECIFICATION

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 04-12-2010

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Rear Radar Mount The stationary mount protects the antenna from exhaust and allows saddlebag removal without disturbing the mount. Mounting can be done with either a stationary or movable mount. R 1150 RT -P
Rear Visibility Optional rear duplex LED lights, combined with optional supplementary LED brake/taillight, provides the ideal combination of visibility while presenting a neat, clean appearance. Exceptional Visibility Side-mounted LED lights provide warning to motorists when an officer approaches. The LED units flood the front left and right quadrants with intense light that precedes the officer into an intersection or dangerous traffic situation. Front side-lights are mounted low to reduce glare to motoristswaiting at blocked intersections. R 1150 RT Front Radar Mount Officers can monitor traffic without neck strain. This mount rotates 90 degrees and allows officers to park perpendicular to the roadway. It also permits an easier roadway entrance angle. The unit features a guiding handle to reduce stress on the plug connection. Electronic Locking Shotgun Mount This powder-coated aluminum shotgun mount locks electronically via a hidden button and provides full weapon support with a padded yoke at the receiver. Designed for use with the Remington 870®shotgun that has been fitted with a pistol grip and a 14-, 16- or 18-inch barrel. The mount features adjustable strap for added safety and to secure folding stocks, and it attaches to the rear of the bike via a chrome-plated antenna bracket. Rear Radar Mount The stationary mount protects the

1994 – 2004 BMW Motorcycle History

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-11-2010

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1994 brought many changes to BMW, most obviously by the introduction of the “R259″ series twins and the elimination of the old standby “Airhead” twins that had been BMW’s trademark for seven decades. While it is interesting to look at all the technologies introduced during the 1994 to 2004 time block, it is also exciting to look into what was going on as far as changes in BMW more esoteric than measurable. In this author’s opinion there were unspoken changes in BMW’s mindset and philosophy. BMW had forged it’s reputation for long lasting, simple machines built to the highest standards and quality; aimed at a dwindling, older (OK, Jeff, more mature) market of enthusiastic but eccentric riders. They built motorcycles that were easy for the owners to maintain and modify to fit their specific wants. BMW had always built their bikes their way; often it seemed like they did so in spite of what the younger and upwardly mobile riders were looking for. By 1994, the airhead was simply not a sellable motorcycle; the buying market was younger and wanted performance in line with what the Japanese products offered at much lower prices. The K 75/100 series that were so far ahead of their time in 1984 when they were introduced were also showing their age. No doubt, BMW knew this was coming many years before the new “Oil Head” was introduced. They knew that the riding community had reduced its mean age substantially. The younger riders had money to spend on a bike that had to be BMW, yet had to be totally more modern both in performance and in perception than what BMW had been selling. Thus, the R259 was born. The Birth of the R259 Twins The new BMW corporate mindset, if you will, was no longer concerned with selling motorcycles that would be handed down from one generation to the next, nor was BMW concerned about ease of maintenance with standard hand tools. Although the new bikes were still able to outlast the riders, the concern for building units to last a quarter-million miles was not so much in the forefront of the design. The new models would have to be powerful, fast, handle better than anything on the road; they would need to offer a standard of technology that the Japanese would never build. They should be complex pieces of rolling art. Most obvious, though, was that they would build a product aimed at an entirely new market of riders who would likely not be interested in maintaining the bikes themselves or really understanding the nuances of design. The new customers BMW was looking for were serious riders who were more interested in the fun and excitement of riding than they were in savoring the history of the older designs

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BMW R1150RT TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 12-11-2010

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miles on his beloved 1150 before trading it in for a new R1200 earlier this year. JOHN TAYLOR, 55 JOHN owned a R1150RT for four years and wishes he had kept it instead of buying the R1200RT. GEORGE EDWARDS, 43 GEORGE runs www.rtrider. co.uk, a website dedicated to BMW RT owners. He owned an 1150 for four years, covering nearly 50,000 miles, and is already up to 6000 miles on the new 1200RT. PERFORMANCE Paul: “The new model feels smoother straight away. It fires quickly, the throttle is lighter and the engine feels more responsive. On the move it just gets up and goes, and it really thrives above 5000rpm. At first I was arriving at corners much quicker than I realised – and two-up performance is a revelation compared to the 1150.” John: “I’m not that impressed with the new model. The 1150 would cruise at 5000rpm-plus like a turbine. By comparison, the new 1200 feels very harsh above 4400rpm in top. The 1200 has more power, but lacks the low down grunt that the older bike had. However, once you rev it there’s noticeably more power. “Fuel consumption varies from 58 to 46 miles to the gallon, depending on the terrain and my right hand.” George: “I always ride two-up with the wife, and usually fully loaded, so the extra power is really noticeable. There’s much more punch out of corners, compared to the old 1150 which felt a bit sluggish. “With the new bike there’s a surge of power, especially above 6000rpm, but there’s still plenty of low down grunt, too. It also means that you don’t have to change down the gearbox so often. On the old 1150 I used to drop down to fifth gear on A and B roads, as it didn’t have the grunt for overtaking in top. The new 1200 is far better, I just leave it in top most of the time.” RIDING Paul: “The 1200′s seat is slightly higher than the 1150, but the new bike is still easier to manoeuvre at low speeds and the top heavy feeling has virtually gone. “The back brake is also improved, and the front feels more progressive than the 1150 – but I wouldn’t say it was better, only different. The suspension takes care of rougher surfaces in a more gentle way and it’s better two-up, too – less likely to ground out. There’s been many a time when we’ve scraped the 1150′s centrestand during fast cornering.” John: “The weight reduction has made the new bike easier to ride, especially on back roads. However, on long fast sweepers it doesn’t feel as planted as the old 1150. “Low speed handling is much better on the new bike and the rear brake is much better as well. I hated the old linked-brake system – it was too sharp, a nightmare in a gravelly car park two-up. The non-linked brakes on the new bike are far better. “The low beam is also much better

HARLEY DAVIDSON REAR BRAKE CALIPER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-02-2011

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INSTALLATION Prepare the Motorcycle for Service To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Follow the Service Manual instructions to disconnect the negative (-) battery cable. Remove Rear Brake Caliper Remove the Brake Pads 1. For models equipped with saddlebags: Remove the right-side saddlebag. Refer to the SADDLEBAGS section of the Service Manual. 2. Remove the rear master cylinder reservoir cover. 3. Pry both the inside and outside pads away from the brake disc and toward the caliper assembly to push the caliper pistons back into their bores. Use steady pressure to prevent scoring the brake disc. Pry between the pads and the brake disc. 4. When the pistons are fully retracted into their bores, pull the pad pins out to allow the pads to drop from the caliper assembly. Note the pads’ original orientation for installa- tion. 5. Install the cover on the rear master cylinder reservoir. NOTE Place a container under the brake caliper to catch brake fluid released when removing the brake line from the caliper. 6. Remove the banjo bolt fastening the rear brake line to the stock rear brake caliper. Save the banjo bolt for brake caliper installation and discard the two steel/rubber gas- kets. Remove the Stock Rear Brake Caliper 1. Apply isopropyl alcohol to the rubber bumper on the brake caliper to ease removal. 2. Lift the stock rear brake caliper toward the front of the motorcycle. The notch in the caliper must clear the weldment on the swing arm. 3. Remove the caliper from anchor weldment on rear swingarm. Inspect Pad and Pins 1. Inspect the brake pads. If friction material above the backing plate on either pad is 0.040 in. (1.02 mm) thick or less, replace the set. Follow the instructions in the Service Manual. 2. Inspect pad pins for wear and grooving. If wear is more than 0.015 in. (0.38 mm), replace both pins. 3. Inspect the brake disc and, if necessary, follow the instructions in the Service Manual to replace the brake disc. Install the Rear Brake Caliper NOTE Pay close attention to all warnings, cautions, and torque specifications in this instruction sheet and in the service manual when installing this rear brake caliper. NOTE Apply isopropyl alcohol to the rubber bumper for ease of installation. 1. See Figure 1. Position the caliper (1) between the brake disc and the rear fork. The weldment on the fork should fit between the notch and rubber bumper on the caliper. Verify that the full length of the rubber bumper contacts the underside of the weldment

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2009 – Current Harley Davidson Trike Conversion Kit INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 27-02-2012

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1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the ¼ – 20 Phillips head screw and Seat. 6. Disconnect and REMOVE battery. 7. Remove two ¼ – 20 flanged hex nuts from the Stud Plate. Remove and save the Passenger Handrail and two ¼ – 20 flanged hex head nuts if equipped. 8. Remove the Saddle Bags. 9. Remove the Right and Left Side Covers. 10. Remove Inner Tour Pak Molded Liner. 11. Disconnect the Tour Pak wiring. 12. Remove four ¼ – 20 HHCS. 13. Remove Tour Pak from Top Support Tube. 14. Remove both saddlebag support rails. 15. Loosen Muffler Clamps on both Mufflers and remove two 5/16 – 18 HHCS per Muffler. Remove and discard both Mufflers. Save Muffler Clamps. 16. Remove right side rear heat shield. 17. Remove and discard Muffler Support Plates. 18. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness and remove from T-stud Clip. 19. Remove four frame cover fasteners and the Left and Right Frame Covers. 20. Remove four Tour Pak Support fasteners and the Tour Pak Support.
7 21. Remove four rear fender fasteners and rear fender. 22. Remove four ½ – 13 HHCS and washers. Remove and discard Rear Air Shocks, Air lines and Air Valve bracket. 23. NOTE: NOTE: NOTE: NOTE: If motorcycle is A.B.S. Equipped refer to A.B.S. Installation Instructions. WARNING: WARNING: WARNING: WARNING: If A.B.S. Equipped DO NOT drain brake fluid. 24. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 25. Cut and remove Cable ties and un-clamp Wire Harness Loops from the Rear Brake Line along its length, including Clamps on Swing Arm. 26. Remove and discard Banjo Bolt and Crush Washers on Rear Brake Caliper. 27. Remove the Spring Clip and nut from the Rear Axle. 28. Remove Rear Axle and Rear Wheel Spacers. 29. Push Rear Wheel Assembly forward and slip Rear Belt off of the Rear Sprocket. 30. Remove Rear Brake Caliper. 31. Remove and save the two Retaining Washers from the Stud Plate. Remove and save the Stud Plate. 32. Remove Rear Wheel Assembly. 33. Remove two 3/8 – 16 SHCS. Remove Passenger Footboards.

BMW F 650CS Scarver Specifications

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 28-10-2010

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Motor Type Water cooled, single cylinder, 4 stroke Bore x Stroke 100 x 83 mm (3.93 x 3.26 in) Capacity 652 cc Rated Output 50 bhp (37 KW) at 6,800 rpm (performance reduction 34 bhp (25 Kw at 6,500 rpm possible) Max Torque 62 Nm (46 ft lb) at 5,500 rpm (performance reduction: 50 Nm (37 ft lb) at 3,500 rpm) Compression Ratio 11.5 : 1 Valves Per Cylinder 4 Valve Control DOHC Mixture Control/Engine Management Electronic intake pipe injection / BMW engine management Emission Control Closed loop 3 way catalytic converter Fuel type Unleaded regular grade fuel, minimum octane rating 91 (RON) Power Transmission Clutch Multiple disc clutch in oil bath, mechanically operated Gearbox Constant mesh 5 speed gearbox integrated in the crankcase Gearbox Ratio’s 2.750 / 1.750 / 1.310 / 1.050 / 0.840 : 1 Final Drive 2.94 : 1 Drive Belt Drive with jerk damper in it’s own casing Electrical System Ignition Electronic ignition Alternator 400 W three phase alternator
Battery 12V / 12 ah Chassis Type of Frame Bridging frame consisting of steel profiles with integrated oil tank and rear frame fastened with screws Front wheel suspension Telescopic fork, stanchion diameter 41 mm, fork stabiliser Rear wheel suspension Die cast aluminium single side swinging arm with rear wheel axle adjustable via Excenter, central strut controlled by means of lever system Travel Front/Rear 125 / 120 mm (4.92 x 4.72 in) Wheels Die cast aluminium wheels Wheel Rims, Front 3.00 x 17 Wheel Rims, Rear 4.50 x 17 Tyres, Front 110/70 x ZR 17 Tyres, Rear 160/60 x ZR 17 Brakes, Front Single disc brake , diameter 300 mm (11.8 in), double piston floating caliper Brakes, Rear Single disc brake, diameter 240 mm (9.45 in), 1 piston floating caliper ABS Special equipment BMW Motorrad ABS Dimensions/Weights Length x Width x Height 2142 x 915 (inc. mirrors) x 1158 (not inc. mirrors) (84.33 x 36 x 45.59 in) Wheel Base (in normal position) 1493 mm (58.78 in) Seat Height 780 mm (30.7 in) (special equipment low seat height: 750 mm (29.5 in), 150 series rear tyres; special equipment high seat bench: 810 mm (31.89 in)) Castor (in normal position) 123.3 Steering Head Angle (in normal position) 86 degrees Unladen Weight with Full Tank 187 Kg / 412 lb Dry Weight 169.6 Kg / 373 lb Permitted Total Weight 370 Kg / 815 lb Payload (with standard equipment) 183 Kg / 403 lb Fuel Consumption over 100 Km @ constant 90Kph 3.0 litres / 94 mpg / 78 mpg US