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V-Star 1100 And Dragstar 1100 Modification V-Star Driving/ Passing Lights Factory Chrome Light Bar Cover Installation

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Use a rotary tool to widen the fastening area of the lower backside clips on the cover. The total width between the clips should be 4 æ inches. Trim off º inch on both inside ends of the lower backside attachment clips. Trim the clips equally. The following picture shows a modified cover. Narrow the clips on both ends to fit over the welds on the bar. The cover will not attach to the bar if the width between the clips is too narrow. If the width is too wide the cover may slide sideways on the bar. Narrow both clips equally to center the cover over the welds on the lower edge of the bar. The top of the cover is modified to allow the cover to fit over the bolts on the light bar. The top edge of the cover is filed æ inch deep and 5/8 inch wide to fit over the bolts. The back top edge is filed or ground 1/8 inch to fit over the light bar fastening bracket. Use care when filing chrome covered plastic. The following picture will help to complete this step in the modification. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. The ends of the cover are modified to allow the cover to fit over the upward curved light bar. The upper openings on the ends of the cover that fit over the bar must be filed to enlarge the area. Grinding the cover ends will allow the cover to fit and clip onto the bar. The end openings are filed or ground at an angle to match the slope of the bar. This picture shows the outer end of the cover. The ends of this cover have been modified by enlarging the area on the upper edges to fit over the upward curving light bar. The ends must be enlarged 1/8 inch on the top edge. The cover edge can be slanted upward to match the curved bar. Modify the cover ends until it fits without the outer chrome cover touching the bar. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Sometimes the modified light bar cover may touch the bottom of the headlight. Modify the cover, or adjust the bar or headlight if you notice the headlight touching the bar cover. This modification makes the V-Star motorcycle with Yamaha driving lights look better. The light bar bolts are covered and the chrome cover improves the appearance of the front of your bike. Other V-Star riders will notice how nice the front of your bike looks with the chrome light bar cover installed

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HARLEY DAVIDSON DERBY COVER KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 05-02-2011

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These kits are designed for installation on all 1999 and later 1340 Evolution and Twin Cam equipped models.INSTALLATION For models equipped with left side exhaust pipe: Perform this installation when the engine is cool. Working on or near the exhaust system when the engine is hot could result in severe burns. (00311a) NOTE Remove clutch inspection (derby) cover with motorcycle upright, not on side stand. If cover is removed with motorcycle on side stand, primary fluid will leak out of primary chaincase. 1. On models so equipped, remove the left-side passenger footboard. Using a T27 TORX® drive head, remove the derby cover from the primary chaincase. Discard the derby cover and fasteners. NOTE The gasket between the clutch inspection cover and the chaincase cover must be removed and all oil must be wiped from the gasket and groove in chaincase cover each time the cover is removed. 2. Remove the gasket from the groove in the chaincase cover and mounting surface. 3. Inspect gasket for tears or damage. Replace as required with gasket 25416-99C (sold separately). NOTE If installing the Derby cover on a 2006 and later Dyna, 2007 Softail, or 2007 Touring model, the original equipment gasket must be discarded and replaced with Derby Cover Gasket 25416-99C (sold separately). 4. To avoid punching holes in the clutch inspection cover gasket or enlarging the existing holes, install the new derby cover and gasket as follows: a. Align the triangular shaped hole in the gasket with the top hole in the derby cover. Be sure the rubber molding and the words “towards clutch” face the motorcycle. b. See Figure 2. Place a washer (2) from the kit onto the threads of one of the new screws (3). Insert the screw threads through the top hole in the derby cover, and carefully thread it all the way through the triangular shaped hole in the gasket. Do not push the screw through the hole. c. Hang the derby cover on the primary chaincase cover flange by starting the top cover screw. d. Start the remaining four screws and washers. 5. Install gasket (part number 25416-99C) and derby cover (1) on primary chaincase cover using screws and washers from the kit. Tighten screws to 84-108 in-lbs (10-12 Nm) in the sequence shown in Figure 1

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HARLEY DAVIDSON ENGINE/ TRANSMISSION INTERFACE AND TOP COVER INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-12-2010

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1. Refer to the Owner’s Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the maxi-fuse. 3 1 2 is02998 1. Transmission top cover screw (4) 2. Oil spout assembly screw 3. Upper bearing housing screw (2) Figure 1. Interface Cover Installation 2. See Figure 1. Remove and retain the four socket head cap screws (1) that fasten the front and right side of the transmission cover. See Figure 3. Obtain the chrome top interface cover (3) from the kit. NOTE The top interface cover can be carefully brought into position on top of the transmission housing from either the right or left side without removing or loosening any vehicle components. 3. Position the top interface cover over the transmission top cover. Loosely fasten the chrome cover to the top of the transmission housing with the screws removed in Step 2. 4. Obtain the chrome filler neck cover (4), 1/4-20 socket head screw (5), flat washer (6) and spacer (7) from the kit. Remove the oil level dipstick from the oil spout on the side of the transmission housing, wipe off and set it aside for later installation. NOTE Insert a clean shop rag into the oil spout opening while the dipstick is not installed. With the dipstick removed, small parts or other foreign material could fall into the transmission, leading to equipment damage or malfunction. 5. See Figure 1. Remove and discard the socket head cap screw (2) that fastens the oil spout assembly to the transmission housing. DO NOT remove the oil spout from the vehicle. 6. Place the flat washer over the threads of the new screw, and insert the screw into the unthreaded hole in the chrome filler neck cover. Place the spacer onto the screw threads. Apply a few drops of Loctite® 243 (Blue) to the screw threads, and position the chrome cover onto the oil spout on the transmission housing. Lubricate the filler neck gasket with soapy water to aid in installation. Tighten the screw to 84-132 in-lbs (9.5-15 Nm) . 7. See Figure 3. Obtain the chrome lower side interface cover (1), one #10-24 socket head screw (8) and one chrome flat washer (9) from the kit. NOTE For models with mid controls, the right-side rider footrest (foot peg) support bracket must be loosened to allow installation of the lower side interface cover. After the cover has been installed, tighten the footrest bracket attaching screws to 25- 35 ft-lbs (34-47 Nm) . 8. Position the cover around the chrome filler neck cover installed in Step 6. Loosely fasten the cover to the threaded hole in the filler neck cover with the screw and washer. 9. Obtain the chrome upper side interface cover (2), three #10-24 socket head screws (8) and three chrome flat washers (9) from the kit

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BMW Airhead Side Braces Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 26-10-2010

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Figure B shows the upper end of the Airhead Side Brace where it attaches to the frame ( NOTE: Leave at least 1/2″ spacing below the bottom edge of the fuel tank ). Figure C shows how the Airhead Side Brace must clear the air inlet tubing Figure D showing how the lower edge (beveled end) fits the frame at the rear of the bike. Figure E shows one of the threaded cones properly welded to the frame, and painted. . Ensure Airhead Side Braces are fully assembled (threaded cones firmly bolted into the braces at both ends). 2. Hold Airhead Side Brace in their proper position (reference Figures A-D) to mark location where front and rear threaded cones will be welded to the frame. NOTE : The lower (rear) end of the Airhead Side Brace is beveled, for reference. NOTE : Make sure that both the left and right Airhead Side Braces are positioned equally. 3. Mark the frame and remove paint in the appropriate areas using emery cloth to prepare the frame surface for welding. NOTE : Measure and mark twice, weld once! 4. Hold assembled Airhead Side Braces in their appropriate positions and tack-weld at the top and bottom. Perform this step for both the top (front) and bottom (rear) ends of the Airhead Side Braces , on both sides of the bike. 5. Using removable tape, mark each Airhead Side Brace as either “left” or “right”, to make sure they are replaced onto the appropriate side of the bike after disassembly. 6. Remove the bolts, and the Airhead Side Braces from the tack-welded, threaded cones. Complete the welding of the threaded cone to the motorcycle frame at all 4 locations. 7. Clean/remove any weld splatter, and paint to protect threaded cone and frame from corrosion (see Figure E). 8. Re-assemble Airhead Side Braces onto threaded cones maintaining original left side/right side orientation. NOTE : The lower (rear) end of the Airhead Side Brace is beveled, for reference. 9. Torque hex bolts to 7 ft/lbs

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HARLEY DAVIDSON VRSC FUEL TANK SIDE COVER KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 05-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. Note the left and right areas on frame where the covers will be installed. Using a 50/50 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water, thoroughly clean the frame tubes surrounding the fuel cell on the left and right sides. Let dry completely. 2. Unlock and open seat. NOTE Loosening the ignition/light switch screw (in the following step) will allow much easier alignment of the ignition/light switch cover and ignition/light switch during installation. 3. See Figure 1. At area inside of frame rail just above the ignition/light switch housing, loosen the ignition/light switch screw just enough to allow the ignition/switch switch to move slightly from side to side and up and down. Do not completely remove screw 4. See Figure 4. Obtain the right side cover bracket (ignition/light switch side) from kit. 5. Remove the strips protecting the adhesive at all of the raised sections on the cover. 1 2 is 02045 1. Ignition/Light Switch Screw 2. Ignition/Light Switch Figure 1. Loosen Ignition Switch Assembly 6. See Figure 2. Carefully align the right side cover between the three frame tubes. Beginning with the left portion of the cover, press the cover between the upper and lower frame tubes until the raised portions of cover (with adhesive) begin to snap into place. While carefully aligning the right portion of the cover, move the ignition/light switch as necessary until centered within hole in cover, then firmly press into place. Adjust ignition/light switch until the switch is centered within cover. Make sure all raised locations (with adhesive) are firmly contacting the upper and lower frame tubes and that cushion rests against front vertical frame tube. 7. See Figure 1. Tighten the ignition switch screw to 6-10 Nm (53-88 in-lbs ) . NOTE The right side (ignition/light) switch cover surface can be damaged by the key fob (from vibration) when the key is in the ignition and the bike is running. You can either remove the key fob so it does not damage the cover surface, or you can install the plastic clear sheet (included in kit) onto the side cover for protection. 8. If desired, perform the following to install the plastic clear cover onto the ignition/light switch cover. a. Obtain the plastic (rhino) sheet and hold up to the switch cover to determine proper orientation and spacing. b. Carefully peel the adhesive backing from the plastic sheet and position onto the cover. Use a wet sponge, and working out from the center, rub out any bubbles or overlapped areas under the sheet. Allow to dry completely.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL TRANSMISSION TOP-COVER KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-02-2011

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INSTALLATION – TOP COVER 1. See Figure 3. Remove and retain the stock screw (J) from the top of the transmission upper cover (I). 2. Ease the left side of the cover through the right side of the engine. You may need to angle the transmission cover slightly as you work it into position. 3. Fasten the weld-nut end of the top-cover bracket (2) to the top cover (4) using the screw (3) from the kit. Torque the screw to 6.6 – 9 ft-lbs (8.9 – 12.2 Nm). 4. Fasten the top of the top-cover bracket (2) to the left side of the transmission upper cover using the screw (J) removed in step 1. Torque the screw to 8 – 10 ft-lbs (10.8 – 13.5 Nm). 5. Install the Softail transmission-interface cover (D). Go to the next section in this instruction sheet. NOTE Save the washer (1) from this kit for transmission-interface cover installation. INSTALLATION – INTERFACE COVER 1. See Figure 1. Remove the screw (1) from interface cover at location 1. Keep the screw for installation. 2. Loosen the screw (2) at location 2 approximately three turns. 3. See Figure 2. Position the slotted hole (1) on the interface- cover mounting bracket (2) behind the washer at location 2. 4. Install the screw (4) from Step 1 through the mounting hole on the bracket and into location 1. Tighten the screw to 7 – 9 ft-lbs (9.5 – 12 Nm). 5. Tighten the screw (3) in location 2 to 13-16 ft-lbs (17.6 – 21.7 Nm). 6. See Figure 3. Place the interface cover (D) in position on the motorcycle. Spread the oil-line grommet (E) to wrap around the oil lines, then re-position the grommet in the interface cover. The edge of the interface cover must overlap the top of the top cover

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HARLEY DAVIDSON TIMER COVER KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-02-2011

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INSTALLATION Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) NOTE For kits 32972-04A, 32924-04A, 32675-04A, and 32923-04A, refer to step 1 and 2 for installation instructions. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove maxi-fuse before proceeding. (00251a) 1. See Figure 2. Remove and discard the original screws and timer cover. 2. Place new timer cover (1) in position and secure with chrome screws (2). NOTE For kits 32584-88TA, 32668-98A, and 32571-98A, refer to steps 3 through 8. 3. Use a 3/8 in. drill bit and drill the heads off the original timer cover rivets. Remove original timer cover. NOTE If the inner timer cover has been riveted in place and access to the cam position sensor is required, use a left hand drill and carefully remove the rivet heads. If a right hand drill is used, the sensor plate screw heads could break off when trying to remove the rivet. NOTE To make the cam position sensor tamper proof, follow steps 4 through 6. If the cam position sensor is not required to be tamper proof, skip steps 4 through 6. 4. Remove and discard inner cover retaining screws. Leave gasket (if used) and inner cover in position. 5. See Figure 1. Place washers (4) over rivets (3) and place rivets into inner cover holes so the backs of the rivets go into the sensor plate screws’ tapped holes. 6. Use a standard rivet tool and install rivets, securing inner cover to sensor plate screws. 7. Use the self-tapping screw (5) to cut threads into the remaining inner cover holes. Discard screw after use. 8. Place new timer cover (1) in position over inner cover (A) and secure with chrome screws (2). NOTE For kit 32581-90TB, refer to steps 9 and 10. 9. Use 3/8 in. drill bit and drill the heads off the timer cover rivets. Remove original timer cover. 10. Place new timer cover in position and secure with chrome screws (Part Number 9462) from kit

YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Motorcycle Enhancements Remote Oil Filter Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Removing Your Old Filter and Beauty Cover In order to install the new Remote Oil Filter Kit, you’ll need to remove the stock Yamaha “beauty cover” and the old filter and filter cover. Remove the engine parts necessary to access the stock filter as outlined in the V-Star owner’s manual. The parts should come off in this order: 1. Muffler assembly 2. Front exhaust pipe 3. Rear brake reservoir cover bolt and brake cover (the reservoir should not be removed, it can remain in place and be moved aside as needed) 4. Right floorboard (this can be simply loosened, by loosening the two bolts underneath) With the above parts removed, you can remove the Allen bolts holding the beauty cover and filter cap from your engine. There are five Allen bolts holding the beauty cover (so named, because most of the cover just covers the chromed side of the engine There are five bolts holding the cover. Ignore the three on the “Yamaha” cap in the middle – these just hold the Yamaha cap to the beauty cover itself. One bolt is hidd – in this picture – just be the Yamaha ca en low p. The bottommost bolt on the beauty cover will likely leak some oil when you remove it – it holds on the inner oil filter cover. Once you remove the beauty cover, you can remove the oil filter cover, and the oil filter Keep these two “O” rings, you’ll need them for the remote kit Old oil filter. Toss it away; you’ll never need one again! Throw away the old filter, and carefully remove the orange and black “O” rings from the filter cover (see picture above). These two “O” rings will go on the new engine cap in the same order as on the old filter cover. “O” ring for bottom bolt. When the beauty cover and filter cover are removed, be sure not to lose the tiny “O” ring that the bottom bolt goes through. Preparing the Remote Oil Filter Kit Remove the orange and black “O” rings from the stock filter cover plate, and place them on the Remote Oil Filter Kit engine cap – black on the inside, orange on the outside – just like on the stock filter cover.

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1994 – 2004 BMW Motorcycle History

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-11-2010

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1994 brought many changes to BMW, most obviously by the introduction of the “R259″ series twins and the elimination of the old standby “Airhead” twins that had been BMW’s trademark for seven decades. While it is interesting to look at all the technologies introduced during the 1994 to 2004 time block, it is also exciting to look into what was going on as far as changes in BMW more esoteric than measurable. In this author’s opinion there were unspoken changes in BMW’s mindset and philosophy. BMW had forged it’s reputation for long lasting, simple machines built to the highest standards and quality; aimed at a dwindling, older (OK, Jeff, more mature) market of enthusiastic but eccentric riders. They built motorcycles that were easy for the owners to maintain and modify to fit their specific wants. BMW had always built their bikes their way; often it seemed like they did so in spite of what the younger and upwardly mobile riders were looking for. By 1994, the airhead was simply not a sellable motorcycle; the buying market was younger and wanted performance in line with what the Japanese products offered at much lower prices. The K 75/100 series that were so far ahead of their time in 1984 when they were introduced were also showing their age. No doubt, BMW knew this was coming many years before the new “Oil Head” was introduced. They knew that the riding community had reduced its mean age substantially. The younger riders had money to spend on a bike that had to be BMW, yet had to be totally more modern both in performance and in perception than what BMW had been selling. Thus, the R259 was born. The Birth of the R259 Twins The new BMW corporate mindset, if you will, was no longer concerned with selling motorcycles that would be handed down from one generation to the next, nor was BMW concerned about ease of maintenance with standard hand tools. Although the new bikes were still able to outlast the riders, the concern for building units to last a quarter-million miles was not so much in the forefront of the design. The new models would have to be powerful, fast, handle better than anything on the road; they would need to offer a standard of technology that the Japanese would never build. They should be complex pieces of rolling art. Most obvious, though, was that they would build a product aimed at an entirely new market of riders who would likely not be interested in maintaining the bikes themselves or really understanding the nuances of design. The new customers BMW was looking for were serious riders who were more interested in the fun and excitement of riding than they were in savoring the history of the older designs

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME BILLET LIFTER-COVER KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-02-2011

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Installation with Stock Pushrods Refer to the service manual for your motorcycle model. Installation with Adjustable Pushrods Lifter-Cover Removal Installing or removing the pushrods with the valve train loaded can result in engine damage. On the cylinder being serviced, always set the lifters to the base circle on the cam before servicing pushrods, lifters, rocker arms, and valves. 1. Set the lifters of the rear cylinder to their lowest point, or base circle, on the cam. Refer to Setting the Lifters to the Base Circle in this instruction sheet. 2. See Figure 1. Insert a screwdriver into the slot on the side of the spring-cap retainer on the pushrod cover. 3. Press the spring-cap and retainer down while pulling outward to remove the spring-cap retainer. 4. See Figure 2. Lift the lower pushrod cover to reveal the lower third of the pushrod. 5. If the engine has stock pushrods installed and you are installing adjustable pushrods with this lifter-cover installation, go to step 6. If the engine already has adjustable pushrods installed and you are installing adjustable pushrods with this lifter-cover installation, go to step 7 6. Use a bolt cutter or similar tool to cut the stock pushrod. Avoid cutting the pushrods with a saw, grinder, or other method that may allow metal debris into the engine. Go to step 8. 7. Loosen the jam nut on each adjustable pushrod and resize each rod to its shortest length. 8. Remove the pushrod covers and pushrods from the engine. 9. Remove the O-rings from the seats in the engine at the top and bottom of the pushrod cover. 10. Remove the four screws fastening the lifter cover to the engine to remove the cover and gasket. 11. Remove old lifter-cover gasket material from the engine, taking care not to allow material to fall into the engine. Continue to Lifter-Cover Installation in this I-Sheet. Lifter-Cover Installation 1. See Figure 3. Verify that the lifter anti-rotation pin is in position. Installing or removing the pushrods with the valve train loaded can result in engine damage. On the cylinder being serviced, always set the lifters to the base circle on the cam before servicing pushrods, lifters, rocker arms, and valves. 2. Verify that the cylinder lifters are set to their lowest point, or base circle, on the cam. Refer to Setting the Lifters to the Base Circle in this instruction sheet. 3. Fasten the new lifter-cover gasket and chrome billet lifter cover to the engine using the chrome screws from this kit. In a cross pattern, torque the lifter-cover screws to 90 – 120 in-lbs (10.2 – 13.6 Nm). 4. See Figure 4. Loosen the jam nut on all of the pushrods and adjust the pushrods to their shortest length. NOTE See Figures 4 and 5. Install the narrow-band pushrods in the cylinder-intake location. Install the wide-band pushrods in the cylinder-exhaust location. 5. Assemble the O-rings (purchased separately) and pushrod covers. 6. Install the pushrods with the pushrod covers. The adjustment-end of the pushrod must be on the lifter

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