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Step 1 — Locate ‘mold circle’ indentation on each side fairing panel (Pic 1). With panel mounted on bike, this indentation is center, at rear inside panel edge, and faces inside. Temporarily install bracket as shown in (Pic 2), align bottom bracket hole over indentation and mark for hole. Remove brackets at this time. Step 2 — Remove fairing body side panels. Four screws per side required for removal, see owners manual. Drill a 3/8″ hole at mark. If harness kit has not been installed, do not re-install left side panel until finished unless you remove tank to install harness. Removal of the tank is the best option to route harness from battery area to front of the bike. Step 3 — As required, re-install fairing body side panels. Do not re-install the top factory inner panel Torx Screw yet, as you will re-use this screw to secure the top light bracket mounting hole to the fairing panel. Step 4 — Using 10/32×1/2 screws and black shoulder washers from Hardware package, secure lights to PIAA Ezy-Mount® brackets (See Pics 3 & 4). Right side bracket is stamped ‘EZY-MOUNT’. See note below for Powersports lights. Due to close proximity of the light body to fairing side panel, access to the vertical adjustment screw on the panel side of the light will not be possible after installation. To prepare for this; before installing bracket/light assembly to panel, make sure this screw is tightened so that you can barely move the light body. After bracket is installed, final vertical adjustment can be secured with the inside screw. Torque on this screw is adequate to hold vertical adjustment, and the screw that faces the panel will not come loose. NOTE: WHEN INSTALLING POWERSPORTS LIGHTS, YOU MUST INSERT THE SHOULDER ADAPTER WASHER INTO THE LIGHT FOOT, BEFORE INSERTING SCREW TO SECURE LIGHT FOOT TO BRACKET. THIS ADAPTER CENTERS LIGHT FOOT OVER PEMNUT (TIGHTEN THIS SCREW SECURELY). Step 5 — Insert well nut into previously drilled 3/8″ hole. Place bracket assembly against fairing, aligning top hole with the top fairing mounting position; re-install the factory Torx screw at this location. Adjust as necessary and install the second supplied SS 10/32 x 5/8 Torx screw thru the lower bracket mounting hole to the well nut. With constant pressure on the screw, tighten securely. Constant pressure ensures that the rear expandable section of the well nut captures the back of the plastic inner panel as you tighten the screw. Future removal of fairing panels is now possible with light assembly installed (utilizing the bottom bracket mounting screw), thus re-alignment of lights is not required after normal maintenance.

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00.3 00 Tightening torque Model K 1100 LT K 1100 RS Connection Nm 11 Engine Freewheel Cover plate/freewheel cage at countershaft gear 10 Oil – water pump Oil pressure switch 40 Temperature sensor/screw plug 9 Pressure relief valve 40 Impeller 33 Pump housing to crankcase 10 Cover to pump housing 10 (3-Bond 1209) Intermediate flange Thrust plate at intermediate flange 9 (Loctite 243) Intermediate flange at crankcase 9 Crankshaft Pinion/rotor flange at crankshaft 50 Main bearing cap to crankcase 50 Connecting rod Big end cap Wrench angle 80 ° 30 Input shaft Front bearing 18 Rear bearing 40 Engine block Crankshaft cover 9 Lower part, outer 10 Oil sump 10 Oil filter cover 10 Oil drain plug 30 Cylinder head Cylinder head bolts (SI 11 062 95 (697) Short thread (from 6/93 to 11/94): Wrench angle, 1st stage Wrench angle, 2nd stage Long thread (since 12/94): Wrench angle, 1st stage Wrench angle, 2nd stage 64° 42° 75° 75° 22 20 Cylinder head cover 9 Camshaft Bearing cap 9 (Apply a thin coat of 3-Bond 1209 only at corners and butt edges) Chain sprockets 54 00.4 Timing chain Chain tensioner 9 Slide rail at camshaft bearing cap 9 Timing case cover Timing case cover 10 (3-Bond 1209) Cover for Hall-effect signal transmitter 9 Screw plug 40 Clutch Clutch housing to output shaft Tighten to Release and re-tighten to Wrench angle 50° 140 50 Housing cover 19 Alternator Alternator to intermediate flange 22 Driver 33 Starter motor Starter motor to gearbox 9 Mixture preparation Intake stub pipe 9 Fuel injection rail 9 Cooling system Coolant stub pipe at cylinder head 9 Temperature sensor at coolant stub pipe 30 Air cleaner Lower part of air cleaner housing 21 12 Engine electrical system Starter to transmission 9 Positive lead to starter 5 Alternator to intermediate flange 22 Clutch housing 50 Base plate 3,5 Setting ring 2,5 Hall generator cover 9 Ignition coils to intermediate flange 5 Spark plug 20 Model K 1100 LT K 1100 RS Connection Nm 00.5 13 Fuel preparation and control Injection rail 9 Intake stub pipe 9 Lower section of air cleaner housing 21 Intake air line 9 Motronic control unit 5 17 Radiator Connecting screw, temperature sensor 9 Fastening, thermostat cover 3 Radiator to frame 9 Coolant stub pipe to cylinder head 9 (with Loctite 243) Temperature sensor to coolant stub pipe 30 18 Exhaust System Exhaust system to cylinder head 21 Front silencer (muffler) 12 Exhaust system holder to footrest plate 33 Exhaust system to holder/footrest plate 9 Retaining bracket to gearbox 41 Oxygen sensor Hand-tight 21 Clutch Clutch housing to output shaft tighten to loosen and retighten to tightening angle 50° 140 50 Housing cover

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R1100 Checklist – Carl Kulow • Check alternator belt (replace 36K miles) • Adjust valves • Spark plugs (replace 12K) • Air filter (replace 12K) • Lube and adjust clutch cable • Lube front shock lower mount • Lube side and center stand • Check brake fluid (replace yearly) • Check brake pads • Check battery acid level • Fuel filter (replace 24K) • Throttle body sync • Oil and filter (replace 6K) • Check transmission fluid level (replace 12K) • Check rear wheel drive fluid level (replace 12K) • Check tires and pressure • Check all nuts and bolts • Check all air and oil hose clamps • Check all lights PARTS – TOOLS Tools Parts Misc. sockets spark plugs compressed air wrenches oil filter anti seize torque wrench air filter carb cleaner hex sockets brake pads rag hex wrenches oil – 4 qt. BMW #10 grease feeler gauges gear oil – 1 1/4 qt. flexible tubing oil filter tool alternator belt (tygon) flashlight fuel filter, o-ring, clamps measuring cylinder crush washers Mityvac -3 small = trans.drain, rear drive fill and drain digital volt meter -1 medium = oil drain heat gun -1 large = trans.fill tire change tools 5 R1100 Maintenance Steps – Carl Kulow Note: This overview section serves only as a step by step reminder for experienced workers. If you are unfamiliar with any procedure you should read the parenthetical reference article or Paul Glaves’ Routine R1100 Service Article! Note to R1100RT and R1100RS Riders: remove the side panels as described in your owners manual “Service and Technical Booklet” except RT: instead of pulling the mirror off as the manual says, you need to hold the back of the mirror (front of bike) with one hand while you hit the front outside corner of the mirror with the palm of your hand thus knocking the mirror off. Check Alternator Belt remove four bolts holding black plastic cover(4mm hex), remove cover, check belt for cracks etc., check belt tension, replace belt every 36K miles, leave cover off for valve adjustment (see Jon Diaz “Alternator Belt Adjustment”)

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Engine Connection Nm Nm Oil filter Oil filter 11 11 Oil drain plug 32 32 Oil pump Mesh filter basket to engine block 9 9 Oil pump cover 9 9 Pressure relief valve 35 35 Oil pressure switch 30 30 Oil cooler Oil cooler pipe to engine block 10 10 Cooling oil line – banjo screw 25 25 Cooling oil line – banjo screw with oil vent valve 25 25 Oil lines to oil cooler 25 – Oil cooler to holder 9 9 Oil cooler return line to engine block 35 35 Oil cooler feed line to frame 20 20 Oil cooler feed line to engine block 25 25 Screw-in union for oil cooler connection at engine block 35 35 Clean threads and apply Loctite 603 to inner and outer threads and in the contact face area Oil cooler hose at oil thermostat – 40 Cylinders Tightening sequence M 8 screw 20 20 M 6 screw 9 9 Chain guide rail pivot screw 18 18 Timing chain Chain tensioner 32 32 Connecting rod Big end cap Joint torque 20 20 Additional wrench angle 80° Crankcase Tightening sequence: M 10 screw (oiled) 45 45 M 8 screw (oiled) 20 20 M 6 screw Engine electrical system Connection Nm Nm Starter motor to engine 20 20 Starter cover to gearbox housing 7 – Positive lead to starter motor 10 10 Alternator to alternator support cover 20 20 Tensioning and retaining strap at alternator 20 20 Spacer at alternator 20 20 Positive lead to alternator 15 15 Belt pulley at alternator 50 50 Belt pulley to crankshaft 50 50 Poly-V belt preload 8 8 Spark plug 20 20 13 Fuel preparation and control Temperature sensor on engine block 25 25 16 Fuel tank and lines Fuel tank to rear frame 22 22 Fuel pump assembly to tank 6 6 18 Exhaust system Muffler to footrest 35 35 Manifold to cylinder head (with strap) 22 22 (with jacket pipe) 18 18 Muffler to support plate for center stand 20 20 Clip on muffler 50 50 Grease clamping face with Never Seez Oxygen sensor (lambda probe) to muffler 55 55 Grease with Never Seez

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cold Engine and Drivetrain Procedures Check Alternator Belt Tools Parts T-handle hex – 4mm none Note: In most cases the alternator belt does not need to be checked any more. Early models should have the pulley and belt upgrade that came out a few years ago. Current recommendations are that the belt is installed and adjusted, then not disturbed until 36K when replacement is specified. 1. Remove the four bolts holding the black plastic alternator belt cover at the front of the engine, 4mm T-handle hex. 2. Remove the cover by sliding it straight down. 3. Check the belt for cracks or shredding. 4. Check the belt tension, quite tight, ~1/4″ deflection when you press on the center. Note: Paul Glaves suggests that proper belt tension is when you can twist the belt ~90 degrees, midway between the pulleys. If you can twist it more than 90 degrees, it is too loose. If you cannot twist it 90 degrees, then it is too tight. 5. Leave the cover off for the valve adjustment procedure on the next page. Change Alternator Belt Tools Parts T-handle hex – 4mm alternator belt socket – 13mm ratchet wrench – 13mm torque wrench 1. Remove the four bolts holding the black plastic alternator belt cover at the front of the engine, 4mm T-handle hex. 2. Remove the cover by sliding it straight down. 3. Loosen the 2 nuts and 1 bolt, 13mm, that hold the alternator – one is on top and one is on each side, thus allowing the alternator to pivot down. 4. Remove the old belt. (Some bikes have a pipe that traps the belt – loosen it enough to get the old belt out and the new belt in) 5. Install the new belt being sure it is properly seated. 6. BMW calls for a tensioning torque of 5.9 ft.lb. (8 Nm) on the adjuster bolt on the left side of the bike. You have to get at this bolt from the alternator side and you may have to lift the tank. Alternatively, you can pry the alternator up with a large screwdriver to tension the belt. 7. Once the belt is under proper tension, tighten the 2 nuts and 1 bolt, 13mm, to 15 ft.lb. (20 Nm). 8. Check the belt for proper tension (see above) and proper seating alignment