Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-11-2010
1994 brought many changes to BMW, most obviously by the introduction of the “R259″ series twins and the elimination of the old standby “Airhead” twins that had been BMW’s trademark for seven decades. While it is interesting to look at all the technologies introduced during the 1994 to 2004 time block, it is also exciting to look into what was going on as far as changes in BMW more esoteric than measurable. In this author’s opinion there were unspoken changes in BMW’s mindset and philosophy. BMW had forged it’s reputation for long lasting, simple machines built to the highest standards and quality; aimed at a dwindling, older (OK, Jeff, more mature) market of enthusiastic but eccentric riders. They built motorcycles that were easy for the owners to maintain and modify to fit their specific wants. BMW had always built their bikes their way; often it seemed like they did so in spite of what the younger and upwardly mobile riders were looking for. By 1994, the airhead was simply not a sellable motorcycle; the buying market was younger and wanted performance in line with what the Japanese products offered at much lower prices. The K 75/100 series that were so far ahead of their time in 1984 when they were introduced were also showing their age. No doubt, BMW knew this was coming many years before the new “Oil Head” was introduced. They knew that the riding community had reduced its mean age substantially. The younger riders had money to spend on a bike that had to be BMW, yet had to be totally more modern both in performance and in perception than what BMW had been selling. Thus, the R259 was born. The Birth of the R259 Twins The new BMW corporate mindset, if you will, was no longer concerned with selling motorcycles that would be handed down from one generation to the next, nor was BMW concerned about ease of maintenance with standard hand tools. Although the new bikes were still able to outlast the riders, the concern for building units to last a quarter-million miles was not so much in the forefront of the design. The new models would have to be powerful, fast, handle better than anything on the road; they would need to offer a standard of technology that the Japanese would never build. They should be complex pieces of rolling art. Most obvious, though, was that they would build a product aimed at an entirely new market of riders who would likely not be interested in maintaining the bikes themselves or really understanding the nuances of design. The new customers BMW was looking for were serious riders who were more interested in the fun and excitement of riding than they were in savoring the history of the older designs
Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 12-11-2010
Relieve the tension of the toothed belt and lift the belt off the belt wheel (refer to F 650CS Repair Manual, 00.57). 2) Remove 6 screws (see arrow in photo at right). 3) Remove the rear belt wheel. 4) Clean and degrease the tapered bores and the threads of the mounting screws 5) Carefully place the new belt wheel in position on the damper, coat the screw threads with Loctite 243 and hand tighten the securing screws. 6) Tighten the securing screws to the specified torque maintaining a diagonally opposite tightening sequence throughout (Torque to 28 NM, curing time 12 hours). 7) Measure the vertical runout of the belt wheel (refer to F 650 CS Repair Manual, 33.15). 8) Install and adjust the rear drive belt (refer to F 650 CS Repair Manual 00.57 – 00.58) 2.1 Removal of the front belt wheel Remove the front belt wheel in accordance with the instructions detailed in the F 650 CS Repair Manual. Remove the securing screw of the activated charcoal filter and let the filter canister hang by one side by the hoses, or remove it and lay it aside. Clean the splines and threads of the main shaft in order to remove all traces of Loctite. If necessary, remove corrosion from the main shaft spline (use only a brass bristle brush). 2.2 Visual inspection Check the splines of the main shaft for damage. Replace the main shaft if the splines are damaged (broken, chipped, bent or damaged teeth). Refer to the F 650 CS Repair Manual for this procedure.
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-02-2011
REMOVAL Prepare for Service 1. Position motorcycle on a suitable lift. NOTE If vehicle is equipped with Harley-Davidson Smart Security System, see owner’s manual for instructions to disarm the system. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 2. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) battery cable first. 3. Remove seat according to the instructions in the service manual. 4. Refer to service manual to remove left saddlebag and side cover. When servicing the fuel system, do not smoke or allow open flame or sparks in the vicinity. Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive, which could result in death or serious injury. (00330a) 5. Remove fuel tank according to the instructions in the service manual. Remove Engine Components 1. Remove existing air cleaner assembly. Discard backplate but save remaining parts. Refer to AIR CLEANER REMOVAL in service manual. 2. Remove existing exhaust system. Refer to EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL in service manual. 3. Remove engine from chassis following the instructions in the service manual. 4. Disassemble engine top end and bottom end. Refer to appropriate ENGINE sections in service manual. 5. Remove existing clutch diaphragm spring. Refer to CLUTCH REMOVAL in service manual. The procedures in this instruction sheet should be performed by one experienced in precision measuring techniques. Failure to meet tolerances called for in this instruction sheet can result in engine damage. (00511b) -J04793 1 2 is03517 1. O-ring counterbore 2. Spigot bore Figure 1. Spigot Bore and O-Ring Counterbore Dimensions Table 1. Spigot Bore and O-Ring Counterbore Dimensions Depth Bore Description 1.625 +/- 0.010 in. (41.3 +/- 0.25 mm) 4.205 +/- 0.010 in. (107 +/- 0.25 mm) Spigot Bore 0.085 +/- 0.003 in. (2.16 +/- 0.08 mm) 4.415 +/- 0.002 in. (112 +/- 0.05 mm) O-Ring Counter- bore is03456 Figure 2. Cylinder Wall MACHINE CRANKCASE Crankcase Boring Preparation NOTE During final assembly of the engine, Harley-Davidson recommends replacing the OE cylinder studs with Screamin’ Eagle High Tensile Studs (16505-01). 1. Remove cylinder studs from the engine crankcase. 2. Mask off all bearings and oil holes to prevent debris and contaminants from entering those areas. 3. Inspect and clean engine case mating surfaces. 4. See Figure 6. Reassemble engine case with OE screws, except the top center screw between the cylinders, and tighten to specifications listed in service manual. NOTE To prevent damage to crankcase boring tool, it is important to replace the top center screw with a modified top center screw (1093). This screw is included in the Crankcase Boring Tool Kit (94419-06) and can be purchased separately from a Harley- Davidson dealer. 5. Install modified top center screw (1093) between the cylinders and tighten to 50-90 in-lbs (5.6-10.2 Nm). 6. See Figure 1 and Table 1. Machine crankcase cylinder spigot bore and O-ring counterbore to the dimensions shown. Modify Crankcase
Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 12-11-2010
Cover the throttle bodies to prevent anything from dropping into the engine. 1. Remove the front seat and disconnect the battery. (Refer to Service Manual, Page 8-8) 2. Lift up the fuel tank. (Refer to Service Manual, Page 5-3) 3. Remove the air cleaner box. (Refer to Service Manual, Page 5-14) 4. Remove and replace the ISC valve. (Refer to Service Manual, Page 5-25) NOTE: Since the ECM is also being replaced there is no need to perform the ISC valve preset operation. 5. Install the air cleaner box in reverse order of removal. (Refer to Service Manual, Page 5-14) 6. Lower the fuel tank. (Refer to Service Manual, Page 5-3) 7. Remove the upper seat rail plate. Disconnect and remove the ECM. (Figure 1) @ ISC Valve Mounting Screw Torque: 2.1± ±0.6 N.m (1.5± ±0.4 lb-ft) ! Carefully insert the ISC valve straight into the throttle body hole to prevent damaging the o-ring. Turn the ISC valve slightly to confirm that the o-ring has not twisted. Using the new screw provided in the replacement parts kit, make sure the screw is completely seated on the plate after the screw has been tightened to the specified torque. 4. Remove and replace the ISC valve. (Refer to Service Manual, Page 5-25) NOTE: Since the ECM is also being replaced there is no need to perform the ISC valve preset operation. ! Cover the throttle bodies to prevent anything from dropping into the engine. 1. Remove the front seat and disconnect the battery. (Refer to Service Manual, Page 8-8) 2. Lift up the fuel tank. (Refer to Service Manual, Page 5-3) 3. Remove the air cleaner box. (Refer to Service Manual, Page 5-14) REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE: 8. Install the new ECM in reverse order of removal. Apply thread lock to the upper plate mounting bolts when reinstalling the upper seat rail plate.
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 18-03-2011
Installation To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove maxi-fuse before proceeding. (00251a) 1 WARNING 1 WARNING ® Kit Numbers 41279-04, 41282-04, 41463-05, 41467-05, 41633-05, 41634-05, 41640-05, and 41639-05 1 of 3 Figure 1. Rear Wheel Removal i02495 1. Axle (keep) 2. Axle adjuster (keep) 3. Axle nut (keep) 4. “E”-clip (keep) 5. Spacer (3) (keep) 6. Torx screw (5) (replace) 7. Brake disc (keep) 8. Wheel assembly (replace) 9. Valve cap (keep) 10. Compensator bowl (keep) 11. Compensator cushion (keep) 12.12 pt screw (5) (keep) 13. Lockwasher (5) (keep) 14. Sprocket assembly (keep) 1. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the MAXI-FUSE instructions to remove the right-side cover and maxi- fuse. Proceed to Step 2 for the wheel being replaced. Rear Wheel 2. See Figure 1. Remove the rear wheel per the REAR WHEEL, REMOVAL instructions in the Service Manual. 3. Disassemble, clean and inspect all parts to be re-used per Service Manual instructions. 4. Re-assemble all saved components to the new chrome rear wheel assembly. See REAR WHEEL, ASSEMBLY in the Service Manual. Do not re-use brake disc screws. Re-using disc screws can result in torque loss and damage to rotor and/or brake assembly. (00319b) 5. Fasten the brake disc to the valve stem side of the wheel using the Torx®screws from the kit. Install the compensator bowl with the 12-point screws and lockwashers saved earlier. 6. Install the new wheel to the rear fork. Refer to REAR WHEEL, INSTALLATION in the Service Manual. Proceed to Step 7. Front Wheel 2. See Figure 2. Remove the front wheel per the FRONT WHEEL, REMOVAL instructions in the Service Manual. 3. Disassemble, clean and inspect all parts to be re-used per Service Manual instructions. Mark the left and right brake discs so they can be re-installed to the same location. 4. Re-assemble all saved components to the new chrome front wheel assembly. See FRONT WHEEL, ASSEMBLY in the Service Manual. Do not re-use brake disc screws. Re-using disc screws can result in torque loss and damage to rotor and/or brake assembly. (00319b) 5. Using the Torx ® shoulder bolts from the kit, and the saved spring washers fasten the brake discs to the same side of the wheel from which they were removed. 6. Install the new wheel to the front forks per the FRONT WHEEL, INSTALLATION instructions in the Service Manual. Proceed to Step 7. Front and Rear Wheels 7. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the MAXI-FUSE instructions to replace the maxi-fuse and right-side cover. After servicing brakes and before moving motorcycle, pump brakes to build brake system pressure. Insufficient pressure can adversely affect brake performance, which could result in death or serious injury. (00279a) After servicing the brake system, test brakes at low speed. If brakes are not operating properly, testing at high speeds can cause loss of control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00289a) Maintenance and Cleaning Chrome parts must be maintained regularly to ensure that they keep their original shine and luster. 1. Clean heavily-soiled wheel surfaces using Harley Wheel and Tire Cleaner, part number 94658-98, applied with Harley Wheel and Spoke Brush, part number 43078-99. 2. Thoroughly clean chrome with a good quality chrome cleaner, such as Harley Bright Chrome Cleaner, part number 94683-99. 3. After cleaning and polishing, seal the finish with a good quality sealer such as Harley Glaze Polish and Sealant, part number 99701-84