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1994 – 2004 BMW Motorcycle History

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-11-2010

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1994 brought many changes to BMW, most obviously by the introduction of the “R259″ series twins and the elimination of the old standby “Airhead” twins that had been BMW’s trademark for seven decades. While it is interesting to look at all the technologies introduced during the 1994 to 2004 time block, it is also exciting to look into what was going on as far as changes in BMW more esoteric than measurable. In this author’s opinion there were unspoken changes in BMW’s mindset and philosophy. BMW had forged it’s reputation for long lasting, simple machines built to the highest standards and quality; aimed at a dwindling, older (OK, Jeff, more mature) market of enthusiastic but eccentric riders. They built motorcycles that were easy for the owners to maintain and modify to fit their specific wants. BMW had always built their bikes their way; often it seemed like they did so in spite of what the younger and upwardly mobile riders were looking for. By 1994, the airhead was simply not a sellable motorcycle; the buying market was younger and wanted performance in line with what the Japanese products offered at much lower prices. The K 75/100 series that were so far ahead of their time in 1984 when they were introduced were also showing their age. No doubt, BMW knew this was coming many years before the new “Oil Head” was introduced. They knew that the riding community had reduced its mean age substantially. The younger riders had money to spend on a bike that had to be BMW, yet had to be totally more modern both in performance and in perception than what BMW had been selling. Thus, the R259 was born. The Birth of the R259 Twins The new BMW corporate mindset, if you will, was no longer concerned with selling motorcycles that would be handed down from one generation to the next, nor was BMW concerned about ease of maintenance with standard hand tools. Although the new bikes were still able to outlast the riders, the concern for building units to last a quarter-million miles was not so much in the forefront of the design. The new models would have to be powerful, fast, handle better than anything on the road; they would need to offer a standard of technology that the Japanese would never build. They should be complex pieces of rolling art. Most obvious, though, was that they would build a product aimed at an entirely new market of riders who would likely not be interested in maintaining the bikes themselves or really understanding the nuances of design. The new customers BMW was looking for were serious riders who were more interested in the fun and excitement of riding than they were in savoring the history of the older designs

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POLINI MINICROSS AND MlNlMOTARD OWNER'S AND MAINTENANCE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Polini) by admin on 22-11-2010

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Fit the stand using the M8x18 screw to fasten it and the spring provided (photo 1 6). A DANGER! We suggest you to remove the stand during competitions as it could be dangerous and bruising. 18- Fit the gear lever l~hoto 171. 19- Fill the fuel tank (See section 4.13). 20- Check the engine oil level (See section 4.3). INTRODUCTION Always ensure that the motorcycle has been efficiently serviced and check it over before riding it. Take your motorcycle to an authorised POIJNI MOTOR1 dealer for all maior servicing and repair. Because of the manufacturer’s policy OF continuous development, and because of constant innovations in technology, your motorcycle may differ in some details from that described in the illustrations and text in this manual. Original POLlNl MOTOR1 spare parts are always made from the same materials and in the same way as the parts originally fitted to your minicross motorcycle. Always insist on original POIJNI MOTOR1 spore parts. Their use ensures a longer life and improved efficiency for your motorcycle. 2. STARTING THE ENGINE FOR THE FIRST TIME Always check over your motorcycle thoroughly before starting the engine. To start the engine for the first time, as instructed below. 1 – Turn the fuel tap located under the fuel tank to #ON” position (photo 18) Run your new motorcycle in as instructed How to ensure that the engine and transmission bed in correctly and to ensure continuous reliability in Future. A CAUTION! The first time yw ride your new motorcycle, ride for about two hours at low engine speeds to ensure that it runs in correctly. Also respect the following precautions. 2- Once the engine starts, leave it idle until it warms up to normal temperature. If you switch the engine off for a short time, wait for it to cool down completely before you re-start it. – 3- During the running in period, always ride at constant 2- Before starting the engine put the gear in neutral position speeds. AVOID RAPID ACCELERATION. (photo 19, gear N). 4- Even when riding at low engine speeds, avoid extended A WARNING! IF the gear position is not neutral the bike could move when started. 3- If the engine is cold, lift the choke lever on the carburettor (photo 20). A WARNING! Lower the starter lever again as won as the engine starts to warm up. 4- Leove the throttle closed. Pivot the kick-start lever out wards and push energetically downwards with your foot to start the engine. 5- Return the kick-start lever to its rest position. Leave the engine idle for a few minutes to warm it up. A WARNING! Check that the engine stop button stops the engine effectively before yw begin riding the motorcycle. difficult sections of road or Lck that could cause the engine to become very hot. 5- Once you have run in your motorcycle following all these instructions, take it to a Polini Motori dealer for its post- running-in service. Apart from a change of spark plug and engine oil, this service also includes the disassembly

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2004 Honda CRF450R OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-11-2010

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motorcycle can be kickstarted with the transmission in gear by disengaging the clutch before operating the kickstarter. Check the engine oil, transmission oil and coolant levels before starting the engine (page 21, 23, 24). Cold Engine Starting: 1. Turn the fuel valve ON. 2. Shift the transmission into neutral. 3. If the temperature is 35°C (95°F) or below, pull the choke knob fully out. 4. If the temperature is below 0°C (32°F), open the throttle two or three times. (The engine requires a richer mixture for starting in cold weather. When the throttle is so opened, the accelerator pump will feed extra fuel to the cylinder, thereby facilitating starting in cold weather.) 5. With the throttle closed, operate the kickstarter starting from the top of the kickstarter stroke, kick through to the bottom with a rapid, continuous motion. (Do not open the throttle, As the carburetor is equipped with an accelerator pump, excessive fuel will be charged into the engine, and the spark plug will be fouled if the throttle is opened and closed repeatedly. Excessive fuel in the engine makes kick- starting difficult.) 6. About a minute after the engine starts, push the choke knob back all the way to fully OFF. If idling is unstable, open the throttle slightly. (1) FUEL FILL CAP (2) BREATHER TUBE WARNING (1) FUEL VALVE (2) CHOKE KNOB Warm Engine Starting: 1. Turn the fuel valve ON. 2. Shift the transmission into neutral. 3. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine. (Do not open the throttle.) 4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine. (Do not open the throttle.) 3. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever. Starting the engine excessively charged with fuel by throttle blipping or other reasons: 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. With the throttle fully opened, repeat kickstarter operation approximately 10 times very slowly to discharge excessive fuel from the engine. 3. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine (Do not open the throttle.) 4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever. Stopping The Engine 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. Turn the fuel valve OFF. 3. Lightly open the throttle 2 – 3 times, and then close it. 4. Depress and hold the engine stop button until the engine stops completely. NOTE: • Failure to close the fuel valve may cause the carburetor to overflow. (1) THROTTLE GRIP (2) ENGINE STOP BUTTON Break-In Procedure Help assure your CRF’s future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you ride during the first operating day or 15 miles (25 km). During this period, avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration. This same procedure should be followed each time when: • Piston is replaced • Rings are replaced • Cylinder is replaced • Crankshaft or crank bearing are replaced

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Yamaha Road Star Engine Guard Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 07-11-2010

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1. Protect the rear portion of the front fender with a towel or other thick, soft cloth. 2. Remove the OEM engine guards if they have been installed on the motorcycle. Or, if OEM engine guards are not present, Remove the two lower engine mount bolts. These bolts are located on the inside of the right and left frame rails, and will be replaced with the longer 10mm bolts included with your new engine guard. 3. Position the engine guard so that the lower brackets point towards the rear of the motorcycle, and slide the engine guard into the space between the front wheel and the frame. 4. Raise the guard until the upper V” mount is located between the frame rails. Note: Your new Barons engine guard is equipped with a unique upper V” mount clamp. This clamp becomes a cradle for the upper frame supports when it is inserted between the frame rails. 5. Rotate the engine guard until the lower mounting brackets are aligned with the lower engine mount holes. Due to production line tolerances in both the motorcycle and the engine guard, the mounting brackets may be too wide or too narrow for the frame. If this is the case, remove the guard from the motorcycle. Place the guard on a flat, firm surface. Insert a towel or other protective material between the guard and the surface. Using a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer, tap the lower brackets until they are correctly spaced. 6. Insert the new 10mm bolts and washers, and finger tighten only. 7. Tighten each 3/8″ bolt in the upper clamp evenly by using a 9/16″ socket or a wrench. Snug down each bolt until it draws the front of the upper clamp into contact with the upper frame supports, then adjust these bolts accordingly to achieve equal spacing between each floorboard and the lower engine guard rail. 8. Tighten the jam nuts against the washers to lock each bolt in place. CAUTION! It is critical that you do not over-tighten these bolts. Tighten all remaining nuts and bolts securely. If necessary, slightly loosen rear brake line banjo bolt and rotate banjo fitting for clearance with engine guard. Tighten banjo bolt and check brake for proper operation. You must re-tighten all four of the engine guard mounting bolts after 100 miles of riding! Care & Cleaning: Engine guards take the full brunt of the worst of what the weather in your area has to offer, making it critical that proper and complete cleaning take place on a weekly basis, or corrosion will occur which is not covered by warranty! Proper cleaning procedure would be to use a product like Simple Green, LOC, Salt-Away or similar. Mix a strong batch and apply it liberally with a soft towel or soft nylon brush to the entire

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BMW R 1200 C And R 850 C REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 22-11-2010

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BMW Inspection 1000 km/600 miles I -BMW Service II -BMW Inspection III -BMW Annual Service IV Reading out MoDiTeC fault memory (Inspections I, II, III and IV) • Remove the left air cleaner trim panel. • Connect MoDiTeC to diagnostic plug. • Read out the fault memory. • Perform any repair work indicated. Checking throttle cable play, adjusting if necessary (Inspections I and III) • Check throttle cable for free movement and freedom from abrasion or kinking; renew if neces- sary. • With the steering turned to various angles, open the throttle twistgrip fully and allow it to close again. • When released, the twistgrip must return to the closed position by itself. • Pull back the protective cap. • Preset throttle cable play with the engine cold to 1.5 mm (0.06 in). • Warm the engine up to its regular operating tem- perature. • Adjust throttle cable play to 0.5mm (0.02 in) Changing engine oil, renew oil filter element (Inspections I, II, III and IV) L Note: If the motorcycle is ridden only for short distances or outside temperatures are below 0°C (32°F): change the oil and renew the oil filter element every 3 months, but at least every 3 000 km (1 800 miles). • Change the oil while it is at regular operating temperature. • Remove screw plug. • Unscrew oil drain plug and drain off oil. • Fit new seal and screw in drain plug. • Use oil filter wrench, BMW No. 11 4 650 , to unscrew and remove the oil filter. • Coat sealing ring on new oil filter element with oil and screw in. • Add oil. • Insert and tighten the screw plug. • Check engine oil level with the motorcycle in a horizontal position; use the auxiliary stand, BMW No. 001550 . e Caution: Never add engine oil above the MAX mark. X Tightening torque: Oil filter………………………………………………… 11 Nm Oil drain plug………………………………………… 32 Nm Fill quantity for engine: With oil filter change.. 3.75 l (6.6 Imp. pints/3.96 US quarts) Without oil filter change.. 3.50 l (6.2 Imp. pints/3.69 US quarts) Oil volume between MIN and MAX marks……0.50 l (0.88 Imp. pint/0.52 US quart) Engine oil grade: Brand-name HD oil for four-stroke spark-ignition engine, API classifications SE, SF, SG; combination with CC or CD specification

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HONDA CT110 SERIES MOTORCYCLE Cold engine Starting Procedure

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 15-11-2011

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Prime the engine before starting by cranking the engine several times with the kick starter. The ignition switch should be OFF, the choke lever Fully ON (A) and the throttle opened slightly. Flooded Engine If the engine fails to start after several repeated attempts, it may have become flooded with excess fuel. To clear the engine, turn off the engine stop switch and lower the choke lever to Fully OFF (B). Open the throttle fully and crank the engine several times with the kick starter. Turn the engine stop switch to RUN and open the throttle slightly; start the engine using the kick starter When service is required, remember that your authorized Honda dealer knows your motorcycle best and is fully equipped to maintain and repair it. The scheduled maintenance may also be performed by a qualified service facility that normally does this kind of work; or you may perform most of the work yourself it you are mechanically qualified and have the proper tools
and service data. • These instructions are based on the assumption that the motorcycle will be used exclusively for
its designed purpose. Sustained high speed operation, or operation in unusually wet or dusty conditions, will require more frequent service than specified in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. Consult your authorized Honda dealer for ecommendations applicable to you individual needs
and use

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2004 Vengeance MOTORCYCLE OWNERS MANUAL

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Filed Under (Vengeance) by admin on 21-11-2010

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Vengeance Warrior • Vengeance Raider • Vengeance Vertebreaker • Vengeance Striker • Vengeance Vendetta • Vengeance Vindicator Shifting Gears Starting off and changing gears requires coordination of the clutch and throttle and gearshift lever. If you don’t do things right, the amount of control you have over the bike is lessened. To start off, pull in the clutch, shift into first gear, roll on the throttle a little, and ease out the clutch. You will become familiar with the friction zone (that’s where the clutch begins to take hold and move the bike), and you add a bit more throttle. You don’t want to stall the engine, nor do you want to over-rev it. There’s a sweet spot in there; find it. Shift while traveling in a straight line. Shifting in a curve is not good practice, and something to be avoided. Become familiar with the sound of your engine, so you can tell when you should shift without looking at your instruments. When you downshift to a lower gear, you should (in one swift, smooth movement) be able to squeeze the clutch, rev the engine a little to let it catch the lower gear smoothly, and shift down. When you come to a stop in traffic, leave the bike in first gear with the clutch disengaged (just in case you want to accelerate out of there in a hurry). Who knows what may be coming up behind you. Braking Don’t ever forget: The front brake on your motorcycle can supply as much as 70 percent or more of your stopping power. The single most important thing you can learn about braking is to use that front brake every single time you want to slow down. Always apply both the front and the rear brakes at the same time. If necessary, apply them hard, but not so hard that you lock up either wheel. A locked wheel, as well as causing the bike to skid, results in downright inefficient braking. Turning When you are riding along the road, you lean a motorcycle into a turn. Learning to lean is an essential part of riding a motorcycle. It is a normal function of the bike when you are changing its path of travel – and quite different from turning the steering wheel of your car. To get the motorcycle to lean in a normal turn, press the handlebar in the direction of the turn and maintain slight pressure on that handlebar to take you smoothly through that particular turn. In other words: press right to go right; press left to go left. Your instincts to keep the motorcycle on a smooth path while keeping it from falling over usually take care of this without you even noticing it. (Demonstrate to yourself how a motorcycle moves by pressing a handlebar slightly while traveling in a straight line. The motorcycle will move in the direction of the handlebar you pushed.)

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KTM 60 SX / 65 SX REPAIR MANUAL ENGINE

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Carburetor adjustment Basic information about the original carburetor setting The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient temperature of approx. 20°C (68°F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (ROZ 95). Mixing ratio 2-stroke motor oil : super fuel 1:40 . Basic information of changing the carburetor setting Always start out from the original carburetor setting. Essential requirements are a clean air filter system, air-tight exhaust system and an intact carburetor. Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the jet needle is sufficient and that changes of other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance. RULE OF THUMB: high altitude or high temperatures  choose leaner carburetor adjustment low altitude or low temperatures  choose richer carburetor adjustment * WARNING * -ONLYUSE PREMIUM – GRADE GASOLINE ROZ 95 MIXED WITH HIGH – GRADE TWO – STROKE ENGINE OIL . OTHER TYPES OF GASOLINE CAN CAUSE ENGINE FAILURE , AND USE OF SAME WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY . -ONLYUSE HIGH – GRADE 2- STROKE ENGINE OIL OF KNOWN BRANDS ( I . E .SHELL ADVANCE RACING X). -NOTENOUGH OIL OR LOW – GRADE OILCAN CAUSE EROSION OF THE PISTON . USING TOO MUCH OIL , THE ENGINE CAN START SMOKING AND FOUL THE SPARKPLUG . -INTHE CASE OFA LEANER ADJUSTMENT OF THE CARBURETOR PROCEED CAUTIOUSLY . ALWAYSREDUCETHEJETSIZEINSTEPSOFONENUMBERTOAVOID OVERHEATING AND PISTON SEIZURE . NOTE: If despite a changed adjustment the engine does not run properly, look for mechanical faults and check the ignition system. Basic information on carburetor wear As a result of engine vibrations, throttle valve, jet needle, and needle jet are subjected to increased wear. This wear may cause carburetor malfunction (e.g., overly rich mixture). Therefore, these parts should be replaced after 1000 hours of using. Idling range – A Operation with closed throttle valve. This range is influenced by the idle adjusting screw 1 . Only make adjustments when the engine is hot. The idling speed can be changed by turning the idle adjusting screw. Turning it clockwise produces a higher idling speed and turning the screw counterclockwise produces a lower idling speed. Opening up – B Engine behavior when the throttle opens. The idle jet and the shape of the throttle valve influences this range. If, despite good idling-speed and part-throttle setting, the engine sputters and smokes when the throttle is fully opened and develops its full power not smoothly but suddenly at high engine speeds, the mixture to the carburetor will be too rich, the fuel level too high or the float needle is leaking. Part-throttle range – C Operation with partly open throttle valve. This range is only influenced by the jet needle (shape and position). The optimum part-throttle setting is controlled by the idling setting in the lower range and by the main jet in the upper range. If the engine runs on a four-stroke cycle or with reduced power when it is accelerated with the throttle partly open, the jet needle must be lowered by one notch. If then the engine pings, especially when accelerating under full power at maximum engine revs, the jet needle should be raised. If these faults should occur at the lower end of the part throttle range at a four-stroke running, make the idling range leaner; if the engine pings, adjust the idling range richer

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Triumph T595 Daytona and T509 Speed Triple Specifications

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 06-11-2010

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1. Tachometer 8. Turn Indicator light 2. Tachometer ‘Red Zone’ 9. Low Oil Pressure Warning Light 3. Speedometer 10. High Beam Indicator Light 4. Odometer 11. Neutral Indicator Light 5. Trip Meter 12. Low Fuel Level Indicator Light 6. Trip Meter Reset Knob 13. Engine Management Malfunction 7. Coolant Temperature Gauge Indicator Light SPEEDOMETER The speedometer indicates the road speed of the motorcycle. In the speedometer face are the odometer and trip meter. The odometer shows the total distance that the motorcycle has travelled. The trip meter shows the distance travelled since the meter was last reset to zero. The trip meter can be reset to zero by rotating the reset knob situated on the left hand side of the speedometer. TACHOMETER The tachometer shows the engine speed in revolutions per minute – rpm (r/min). On the right side of the tachometer face is the ‘red zone’. Engine rpm (r/min) in the red zone is above maximum recommended engine speed and is also above the range for best performance. / f&it. ::;:%M,to %:th:’z zone as severe engme damage may NOTE The ‘Red Zone’ position for Daytona is different to that on the Speed Triple. Page 16
General Information COOLANT TEMPERATURE GAUGE The coolant temperature gauge indicates the temperature of the engine coolant. On the right -hand side of the gauge face is the ‘red zone. If the temperature gauge needle moves into the ‘red zone’ this indicates that the engine is overheating. needle enters the ‘red zone’ as severe WARNING LIGHTS I a0 INDICATORS When the indicator switch is turned to left or right, the corresponding direction indicator light flashes on and off. cl ~ LOW OIL PRESSURE: The low oil pressure warning light becomes illuminated whenever the oil pressure is dangerously low (or the ignition switch is in the ‘ON’ position with the engine not running). When the engine is running, the light will remain off when sufficient oil pressure is present. When starting the motorcycle, check that the light comes on when the ignition is in the ‘ON’ position, but goes out as soon as the engine starts A! CAUTION: Stop the engine immediately if the low oil pressure warning light comes on during normal operation. Do not restart the engine until the fault has been rectified. Severe engine damage will result from running the engine when the oil warning light is illuminated. HIGH BEAM: When the headlights are switched on and the headlight dip switch is set to ‘high beam’, the high beam warning light will illuminate. IElI NEUTRAL: The neutral warning light indicates when the transmission is in neutral (no gear selected). The warning light will illuminate when the transmission is in neutral with ignition switch in the ‘ON’ position. ml LOW FUEL: The low fuel indicator will illuminate when there are approximately 3.7 litres of fuel remaining in the tank. Et3 ENGINE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT: The malfunction indicator light for the engine management system illuminates when the ignition is switched on, remains illuminated during starting, and goes out shortly after the engine starts. If the malfunction indicator light becomes illuminated during riding, a fault has occurred in the engine management system. In this case the system will switch to ‘limp-home’ mode so that riding may continue. Contact an authorised Triumph dealer as soon as possible to have the fault checked out and rectified

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BMW Motorcycle R1100 RT R1100 RS R850/ 1100 GS R850/ 1100R Repair Manual

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 18-11-2010

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Engine Connection Nm Nm Oil filter Oil filter 11 11 Oil drain plug 32 32 Oil pump Mesh filter basket to engine block 9 9 Oil pump cover 9 9 Pressure relief valve 35 35 Oil pressure switch 30 30 Oil cooler Oil cooler pipe to engine block 10 10 Cooling oil line – banjo screw 25 25 Cooling oil line – banjo screw with oil vent valve 25 25 Oil lines to oil cooler 25 – Oil cooler to holder 9 9 Oil cooler return line to engine block 35 35 Oil cooler feed line to frame 20 20 Oil cooler feed line to engine block 25 25 Screw-in union for oil cooler connection at engine block 35 35 Clean threads and apply Loctite 603 to inner and outer threads and in the contact face area Oil cooler hose at oil thermostat – 40 Cylinders Tightening sequence M 8 screw 20 20 M 6 screw 9 9 Chain guide rail pivot screw 18 18 Timing chain Chain tensioner 32 32 Connecting rod Big end cap Joint torque 20 20 Additional wrench angle 80° Crankcase Tightening sequence: M 10 screw (oiled) 45 45 M 8 screw (oiled) 20 20 M 6 screw Engine electrical system Connection Nm Nm Starter motor to engine 20 20 Starter cover to gearbox housing 7 – Positive lead to starter motor 10 10 Alternator to alternator support cover 20 20 Tensioning and retaining strap at alternator 20 20 Spacer at alternator 20 20 Positive lead to alternator 15 15 Belt pulley at alternator 50 50 Belt pulley to crankshaft 50 50 Poly-V belt preload 8 8 Spark plug 20 20 13 Fuel preparation and control Temperature sensor on engine block 25 25 16 Fuel tank and lines Fuel tank to rear frame 22 22 Fuel pump assembly to tank 6 6 18 Exhaust system Muffler to footrest 35 35 Manifold to cylinder head (with strap) 22 22 (with jacket pipe) 18 18 Muffler to support plate for center stand 20 20 Clip on muffler 50 50 Grease clamping face with Never Seez Oxygen sensor (lambda probe) to muffler 55 55 Grease with Never Seez

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